Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #162 - 41 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 03:01:02 -0500 (EST)

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Today's Topics:

   1. clunking gear box (Roy Wilson)
   2. Re: clunking gear box (Alan J. Richer)
   3. Hamlet cooked on a manifold - the full version. (Alan J. Richer)
   4. Re: 3M marine sealant (Lonn & Rhonda)
   5. Re: Hamlet cooked on a manifold - the full version. (Phil Norris)
   6. Re: Hamlet cooked on a manifold - the full version. (Alan J. Richer)
   7. Signs (A. P. (Sandy) Grice)
   8. 5200 (A. P. (Sandy) Grice)
   9. RE: Hamlet cooked on a manifold - the full version. (Easton Trevor A)
  10. Re: Cool 101 on T-shirt, whos? (Benjamin Allan Smith)
  11. Re: Hamlet cooked on a manifold - the full version. (Keith Tanner)
  12. Lightweight Floor (brodie Pedersen)
  13. Land rover seats. (brodie Pedersen)
  14. Re: scout pwr steering box was Timm Cooper (Bill Adams)
  15. Bronze Green Paint (Mark Pilkington)
  16. Re: Bronze Green Paint (Alan J. Richer)
  17. Re: aluminum sources and alloys (Tim Czajka)
  18. rear axle oil seal? (george kase)
  19. Re: Bronze Green Paint (RON WARD)
  20. Re: Bronze Green Paint (Mark Pilkington)
  21. Re: Cool 101 on T-shirt, whos? (Phil Norris)
  22. 4x4 ideology (was Cool 101) (Kirk Hillman)
  23. Re: rear axle oil seal? ([email-masked])
  24. Re: scout pwr steering box was Timm Cooper (Kirk Hillman)
  25. Re: scout pwr steering box was Timm Cooper (Kirk Hillman)
  26. Re: rear axle oil seal? (Dick Joltes)
  27. Re: scout pwr steering box was Timm Cooper (Bill Adams)
  28. Re: Re: aluminum sources and alloys (Dick Joltes)
  29. Amazing discovery (Mark Pilkington)
  30. Re: 3M marine sealant (Faure, Marin)
  31. RE: rear axle oil seal? (Stude, Herman)
  32. RE: Hamlet cooked on a manifold - the full version. (Alan J. Richer)
  33. RE: Hamlet cooked on a manifold - the full version. (Easton Trevor A)
  34. RE: rear axle oil seal? (Stude, Herman)
  35. Re: 109 to 88 and racing around the desk. (Scott Wickham)
  36. Re: scout pwr steering box was Timm Cooper (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  37. Thread pitch and diameter (Jean-Leon Morin)
  38. Re: 3M marine sealant (N Forbes)
  39. Re: aluminium sources and alloys ([email-masked])
  40. Re: Perfect Series seat ([email-masked])
  41. Re: Thread pitch and diameter (Paul Oxley)

--__--__--

Message: 1
From: Roy Wilson <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 20:25:27 +1000
Subject: [lro] clunking gear box
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi all

I recently installed a high ratio transfer case and now every time I
back off on the accelerator I can hear a clunking sound coming from
the general vicinity of the gear box.  Does this mean that the gear
box and transfer case have realised that they have different serial
numbers and are now at war or is there another possible reason?

Cheers,
Roy
S111 1976 LWB

__________________________________________________________________
Get your free Australian email account at http://www.start.com.au

--__--__--

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 03:48:38 -0800 (PST)
From: "Alan J. Richer" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] clunking gear box
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I'd more believe that the thrust washers on the T-case
intermediate gear aren't shimmed properly, or the
driveshaft flange is loose and/or the driveshaft
mounting bolts...

Likely nothing nightmarish - just go over the bolts
and check stuff, with the intermediate gear spacing
being last on the list (most PITA to get to).

           ajr

--- Roy Wilson <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> Hi all
> 
> I recently installed a high ratio transfer case and
> now every time I
> back off on the accelerator I can hear a clunking
> sound coming from
> the general vicinity of the gear box.  Does this
> mean that the gear
> box and transfer case have realised that they have
> different serial
> numbers and are now at war or is there another
> possible reason?
> 
> Cheers,
> Roy
> S111 1976 LWB
> 
> 
>
__________________________________________________________________
> Get your free Australian email account at
> http://www.start.com.au
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 05:17:19 -0800 (PST)
From: "Alan J. Richer" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked], [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Hamlet cooked on a manifold - the full version.
Reply-To: [email-masked]

 Y'know, I have too much time on my hands.
 
I looked it up and completed the parody - I think it
works rather well, actually. I really should stop
this, though - it might get me dis-bard..

                ajr

IIB or not IIb - that is the question.
 
Whether it is nobler in the mind to consider the beast
a 109 or to name it truly as a 110 , overcoming a sea
of discussion and by opposing, end it.
 
To drive, to stop no more, and by driving we mean to
say that we accept the backache and the thousand
natural shocks that the suspension is heir to. 'Tis a
pastime devoutly to be wished.

To drive, perchance to off-road - ah, there's the rub!
For in the mud of offroad what tragedies may happen,
when we have shuffled off the tarmac surface must give
us pause. 

There's the respect that makes calamity of being mired
in the mud,for who would bear the whips and scorns of
our fellow travelers, the winching wrong, the  proud
man's acceptance of assistance, when he himself his
rescue could make with a bare come-along?
 
Who would travels bear, to grunt and sweat under a
heavy load, but for that wonder of something over the
next rise, the undiscovere'd country, upon whose bourn
we travel with ease, leads us on.

For this makes us rather bear the ills it has, than
those of a Toyota we know not of?

  A J Richer 2001 - with apologies to the Bard....

=====
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Message: 4
From: "Lonn & Rhonda" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] 3M marine sealant
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 05:31:49 -0800
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Simon,

You will find the Geocell Proflex at RV stores.  It is commonly used
to repair leaky roofs on campers and trailers.

Lonn

--__--__--

Message: 5
From: "Phil Norris" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Hamlet cooked on a manifold - the full version.
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 14:22:21 -0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

alan, may I forward it to some other friends and lists?  this is too good to
miss out on....!!
PhilN
UK
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan J. Richer <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>; [email-masked]
<[email-masked]>
Date: 21 November 2001 13:18
Subject: [lro] Hamlet cooked on a manifold - the full version.

>
> Y'know, I have too much time on my hands.
>
>I looked it up and completed the parody - I think it
>works rather well, actually. I really should stop
>this, though - it might get me dis-bard..
>
>                ajr
>
>
>IIB or not IIb - that is the question.
>
>Whether it is nobler in the mind to consider the beast
>a 109 or to name it truly as a 110 , overcoming a sea
>of discussion and by opposing, end it.
>
>To drive, to stop no more, and by driving we mean to
>say that we accept the backache and the thousand
>natural shocks that the suspension is heir to. 'Tis a
>pastime devoutly to be wished.
>
>To drive, perchance to off-road - ah, there's the rub!
>For in the mud of offroad what tragedies may happen,
>when we have shuffled off the tarmac surface must give
>us pause.
>
>There's the respect that makes calamity of being mired
>in the mud,for who would bear the whips and scorns of
>our fellow travelers, the winching wrong, the  proud
>man's acceptance of assistance, when he himself his
>rescue could make with a bare come-along?
>
>Who would travels bear, to grunt and sweat under a
>heavy load, but for that wonder of something over the
>next rise, the undiscovere'd country, upon whose bourn
>we travel with ease, leads us on.
>
>For this makes us rather bear the ills it has, than
>those of a Toyota we know not of?
>
>  A J Richer 2001 - with apologies to the Bard....
>
>
>
>=====
>Please ignore the following advertising.....
>Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
>http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 6
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 06:21:35 -0800 (PST)
From: "Alan J. Richer" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Hamlet cooked on a manifold - the full version.
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Absolutely. My only caveat is that if it goes into a
newsletter I get a hardcopy - and that attribution
remains with it.

            Alan
I really have to lay off the caffiene.....8*) -ajr

--- Phil Norris <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> alan, may I forward it to some other friends and
> lists?  this is too good to
> miss out on....!!
> PhilN
> UK

=====
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 09:56:53 -0500
To: [email-masked]
From: "A. P. (Sandy) Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Signs
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Keith Tanner <[email-masked]> wrote:

>Depending on how much of a Cheap Bastard you are, go looking for an old 
>road sign. Preferably retired :) My local metal yard will sell their scrap 
>by weight, so I just wander around until I find something that looks cool.

Absolutely.  And leave the reflective yellow side down and unpainted.  That
way, when you turn over, the folks behind you have some warning.... ;-)

--__--__--

Message: 8
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 09:56:51 -0500
To: [email-masked]
From: "A. P. (Sandy) Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] 5200
Reply-To: [email-masked]

"Simon J. Harding" <[email-masked]>

>I went by the hardware store the other day after Peter Hope posted about his
>raingutter leak.  I have a similar leak and was looking for the Geocell
>Proflex product mentioned here.  I didn't find it but did see a caulk tube
>of a 3M  Marine Sealant/Adhesive touted as useable above and below the water
>line for sealing cracks, etc.  Don't have the product number.  Can Marin or
>someone else with experience with this stuff let me know if it is good and
>if so, suitable for sealing my rain gutters?  Also, didn't see a reference
>on the tube, so I was wondering if the stuff is paintable.  Thought I'd ask
>before buying the stuff.

5200 is the knarliest, most aggressive, most permanent sealant known to
man.  I've used it extensively on my mahogany-hulled sailboat that was
built in Holland in '57.  Through-hulls were bedded in the stuff.  Deck
hardware was bedded in it.  Use it only where you don't expect the parts
ever to be taken apart agian, as the stuff is a pain in the arse to get rid
of.  It hangs on like grim death....

I don't think it is paintable: that's why it comes in several flavors:
white, black, tan, mahogany.  This stuff has an uncanny knack for
spreading.  Apply it in one place and bits get on your hands, knees, feet,
etc, and get tracked elsewhere on your newly-painted deck.  Don't know how
it does this exactly.... ;-)

Keep an alcohol-soaked rag nearby for cleanup.  You *don't* want it to dry
on you skin.

Cheers

	*-----"jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is legendary"----*
	|                 A. P. "Sandy" Grice                  |
	|    The Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd    |
	|     1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
	*------------------------------------------------------*

--__--__--

Message: 9
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Hamlet cooked on a manifold - the full version.
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 11:12:27 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

You really Hathaway with words

I looked it up and completed the parody - I think it
works rather well, actually. I really should stop
this, though - it might get me dis-bard..

--__--__--

Message: 10
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Cool 101 on T-shirt, whos?
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 11:22:51 -0500
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In message <[email-masked]>you wrote:

> It's the "No Road required" one about 2/3 way down, at :-
> http://www.british4x4.nl/Clothing.html 
> 
> Apparently it's a US made shirt so I guess the image is US generated.
> Anyone know whos machine it is?  I'd love to see some better pictures if
> they're on a site somewhere and an idea of the tire size involved...

	It's a photo from the prototype/pre-production days when they fitted
a set of tundra tyres on one.  It's a factory photo from the 1968 to 1973 
timeframe.  From what I recall the 101 didn't take to those tyres on long term 
testing very well.  It wasn't designed for them and parts (like wheel bearings)
failed prematurely.

Ben
--
Benjamin Smith                   "If I were running such a contest, I would
Land-  : '72 Series III 88"      specifically eliminate any entries from Ben  
 -Rover: '94 Discovery 5-Spd     involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  
       : '73 RHD 101" FC GS      He'd drive it up the Amazon Basin for a half
       : '76 LHD 101" FC GS      can of Jolt and a stale cookie." --K. Archie

--__--__--

Message: 11
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 09:31:38 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Hamlet cooked on a manifold - the full version.
Reply-To: [email-masked]

You know, that makes studying Shakespeare worthwhile.

..in the mud of offroad what tragedies may happen....

Keith

--__--__--

Message: 12
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 11:36:34 -0500 (EST)
From: brodie Pedersen <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Lightweight Floor
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I have the same problem with the  Lightweight that I
am restoring. I will probably shop around for 4 bar
aluminum steplate and do the whole rear box and front
floor boards .  Or if it is cheaper (yeah right) I may
order a rear body lining kit from the U.K. 

 Rhino coat is another possibility. If you patch up
the individual holes you could take the the truck down
and have the rear tub sprayed.  

I am not a stickler for originality only original
ideas.

Brodie

=====
"SI HOC LEGERE SCIS NIMIUM ERUDITIONIS HABES"

1971 Land Rover Lightweight
1968 Norton Manxman 
1961 Triumph TR3A
1981 AMC Eagle SW
1987 VW Fox Wagon

_______________________________________________________
Build your own website in minutes and for free at http://ca.geocities.com

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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 11:43:50 -0500 (EST)
From: brodie Pedersen <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Land rover seats.
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi all,

I am using Porshe 914 seats in my lightweight.  The
bottom cushion is removable, which I hope will help
when I have to fill up the military tanks. The rake
angle is perfect for a Land rover, and the seats are
very comfortable and have really good bolsters.

I can also recommend Hyndai Scoupe seats, or Fiero
seats. 

The Fiero seats runners I have been told will actually
almost bolt right down in to the original holes
without much tweaking.  They also have speakers in the
headrests.  Lots of companies out there that offer
recovering kits for these seats as well. Corinthian
Leather for your Landie?? ; - )

Brodie

=====
"SI HOC LEGERE SCIS NIMIUM ERUDITIONIS HABES"

1971 Land Rover Lightweight
1968 Norton Manxman 
1961 Triumph TR3A
1981 AMC Eagle SW
1987 VW Fox Wagon

_______________________________________________________
Build your own website in minutes and for free at http://ca.geocities.com

--__--__--

Message: 14
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 12:10:42 -0500
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Organization: U.S. International Broadcasting Bureau
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] scout pwr steering box was Timm Cooper
Reply-To: [email-masked]

If anyone is looking for a scout power steering box, or any other scout
bits the only place to go is www.binderbulletin.com This is the most
comprehensive IH site with message boards, classifieds, etc.
This is venue has provided me with alot of resources.
-- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

--__--__--

Message: 15
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 09:18:05 -0800
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Bronze Green Paint
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Does anyone know where I can get a  can of spray paint in Land Rover Bronze
Green.  The Land Rover Supermarket back home has some, but cannot send it as
it is pressurised and will explode and blow up the plane (apparently)
I have looked at all the car accessory stores and they have many greens, but
none are right.  Thanks for the help if anyone knows this.
Mark Pilkington

--__--__--

Message: 16
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 09:24:57 -0800 (PST)
From: "Alan J. Richer" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Bronze Green Paint
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I know RN carries spray cans - ditto AB I believe.
Tower Paint can mix and load cans for you in any
colour you want.

               ajr

--- Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know where I can get a  can of spray
> paint in Land Rover Bronze
> Green.  The Land Rover Supermarket back home has
> some, but cannot send it as
> it is pressurised and will explode and blow up the
> plane (apparently)
> I have looked at all the car accessory stores and
> they have many greens, but
> none are right.  Thanks for the help if anyone knows
> this.
> Mark Pilkington
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

=====
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Message: 17
From: "Tim Czajka" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 10:47:25 -0700
Subject: [lro] Re: aluminum sources and alloys
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Richard Joltes wrote:
>Does anyone have recommendations regarding the purchase of sheet  aluminium 
>(i.e. pricing, what alloys would be best used to replace the standard 
>Birmabright, etc)?
>
Are you planning on welding the rear floor to the body?
If not then an exact alloy match should not be needed -
just use rivets.  I doubt galvanic corrosion would be a
big issue between reasonably similar aluminum alloys.

I think the price of 188.00 is rather high - especially
since you don't need the full 4x8 sheet.  I spent 40.00
for some nice thick aluminum to build new covers under
my front seats - one of them swings up and is lockable.
The sheet was about 4x31/2.  The shop I purchased from
lets you go into the warehouse area and look through
their scrap pieces - some of which are quite large.
The left overs sell a lot cheaper than ordering a new
piece.  But if you want to special order a particular
alloy then it will likely cost.

Tim Czajka
1972 Series III 88

Hey - below is a clip from a post I found a while back
regarding Birmabright alloy makeup - I can't vouch for
any of the info:

-----------------------------------

From: [email-masked] (PumaRacing)
Subject: Re: Closest match for this AL alloy called Birmabright?

AFAIK Birmabright was the name of the company and they
gave their alloys names such as Birmetal xxx. You can
find many of them listed in the Robert Ross Metallic
Materials Handbook.

Without knowing the alloy number the name Birmabright
doesn't narrow it down much. For welding though I think
you are perhaps worrying too much. Any decent mag rod
ought to give a perfectly good weld.

Dave Baker at Puma Race Engines (London - England)  -
specialist flow development and engine work.

---------------------------------

From: [email-masked] (Nick Partridge)
Subject: Re: Closest match for this AL alloy called Birmabright?

The spec you gives surprises me, I understood that my
organisation currently produces the body sheet for land rover.

I melt the scrap from that process and the analysis I have
is significantly different.

We refer to the material as 6063A (a subset of AA6063)
or 67410.  Can't help with welding.

Nick

--------------------------------

[email-masked] wrote:

Hello, I am trying to find the closest match for this
AL alloy used in Land Rover sheet metal.  It is called
birmabright (for Birmingham, England I suppose)
and I heard 2nd hand that its composition is:
Cu  1.0
Si 0.7
Mn 1.5
Mg 1.0 to 6.0 ???
Ni 1.5
Cr 0.5
Can anyone suggest any closer matches than 7075 or 6061.
Which elements are the most important for matching in regards
to picking welding rods.  I am primarily interested in
compatibility for welding.
Regards Chris

----------------------------

_________________________________________________________________
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--__--__--

Message: 18
Date: 21 Nov 2001 12:06:28 -0600
From: george kase <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] rear axle oil seal?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Anybody done this on a series III 88 without replacing everything else inside there?
what's the minimum procedure possible...
thanks
George Kase

--__--__--

Message: 19
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 13:09:41 -0500
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Bronze Green Paint
Reply-To: [email-masked]

RN catalog shows bronze green paint code is RTC4042A.  They have the spray cans available and will ship UPS.  Or, take the Dupont paint code 38500A to CarQuest or some other automotive paint supplier and have them mix a batch for you.

Ron Ward

>>> [email-masked] 11/21/01 12:18PM >>>

Does anyone know where I can get a  can of spray paint in Land Rover Bronze
Green.  The Land Rover Supermarket back home has some, but cannot send it as
it is pressurised and will explode and blow up the plane (apparently)
I have looked at all the car accessory stores and they have many greens, but
none are right.  Thanks for the help if anyone knows this.
Mark Pilkington
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked] 
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 20
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 10:21:09 -0800
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Bronze Green Paint
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Thanks Ron

RON WARD wrote:

> RN catalog shows bronze green paint code is RTC4042A.  They have the spray cans available and will ship UPS.  Or, take the Dupont paint code 38500A to CarQuest or some other automotive paint supplier and have them mix a batch for you.
>
> Ron Ward
>
> >>> [email-masked] 11/21/01 12:18PM >>>
>
> Does anyone know where I can get a  can of spray paint in Land Rover Bronze
> Green.  The Land Rover Supermarket back home has some, but cannot send it as
> it is pressurised and will explode and blow up the plane (apparently)
> I have looked at all the car accessory stores and they have many greens, but
> none are right.  Thanks for the help if anyone knows this.
> Mark Pilkington
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 21
From: "Phil Norris" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Cool 101 on T-shirt, whos?
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 18:55:22 -0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Thanks.  I've seen photo's in print of a terra-tyre equipped 101 in testing
with the Malaysian army, so it might be one of those....
Ta
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
Date: 21 November 2001 16:24
Subject: Re: [lro] Cool 101 on T-shirt, whos?

>
>In message <[email-masked]>you wrote:
>
>> It's the "No Road required" one about 2/3 way down, at :-
>> http://www.british4x4.nl/Clothing.html
>>
>> Apparently it's a US made shirt so I guess the image is US generated.
>> Anyone know whos machine it is?  I'd love to see some better pictures if
>> they're on a site somewhere and an idea of the tire size involved...
>
> It's a photo from the prototype/pre-production days when they fitted
>a set of tundra tyres on one.  It's a factory photo from the 1968 to 1973
>timeframe.  From what I recall the 101 didn't take to those tyres on long
term
>testing very well.  It wasn't designed for them and parts (like wheel
bearings)
>failed prematurely.
>
>Ben
>--
>Benjamin Smith                   "If I were running such a contest, I would
>Land-  : '72 Series III 88"      specifically eliminate any entries from
Ben
> -Rover: '94 Discovery 5-Spd     involving driving the [Land] Rover
anywhere.
>       : '73 RHD 101" FC GS      He'd drive it up the Amazon Basin for a
half
>       : '76 LHD 101" FC GS      can of Jolt and a stale cookie." --K.
Archie
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 22
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 12:33:51 -0700
Subject: [lro] 4x4 ideology (was Cool 101)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

There is a guy near hear that has a couple of 101's.  When I was over to
meet him the other night I saw the one of them that had huge mudder tires on
it.  It just looked wrong.  David's comment was something to the effect of,
'Can you imagine trying to steer that off road?'  No thanks.
    There is a general difference in philosophy between the average J**per
and the LR enthusiast.  They tend to go with huge tires and mammoth lifts.
LRO's tend toward tall skinny tires and keep the CG lower.  I also believe
that every place is a little different and requires slightly different
approaches to work well.  Where I live, near the Rocky Mountains, much of
the terrain is angled and not much of it is a bottomless mud pit.  Thus I
don't have a lift at all, and I only have 235/85 R16's with an aggressive
tread.  The more I drive my LR the more I see how much it can do more or
less stock, and how the things I do wouldn't even be attempted by most
'serious' 4x4's around here.  In the LR most of it isn't all that serious
because it has a fairly low CG.  The bigger and 'badder' these guys' trucks
are the worse they do in anything but mud.
    Now, before anyone starts flaming me remember I am talking about Joe
Blow average 4x4.  Heck, it was only recently when I started driving my LR
that this stuff really started to sink in and became more than someone
else's ideology.
    To be fair though, I am going to a club meeting later this week to meet
and learn about some local guys rigs (mostly J**ps).

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 23
From: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 14:38:39 EST
Subject: Re: [lro] rear axle oil seal?
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

depends which oil seal on the rear axle.

adam

--__--__--

Message: 24
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] scout pwr steering box was Timm Cooper
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 12:48:53 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Bill,

    I think you meant www.binderbulletin.org, yes?

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 25
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] scout pwr steering box was Timm Cooper
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 12:51:14 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

    One other thing, why are people set on the IH Scout box again?  I
forgot.  The only ones I have seen were ALL TLC boxes.  Mind you I have
never actually compared the setups, 100's of Malaysians with LR's can't be
wrong, can they?  ;-)

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 26
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 14:55:48 -0500
From: Dick Joltes <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] rear axle oil seal?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

_IF_ you mean the hub oil seal (probably RTC3510)...

I just did this on Smudger and replaced only the oil seals and the
paper gasket (#231505) under the drive flange. Of course I also took
the opportunity to clean everything, inspect and repack the bearings,
and so forth.

Took about .5 - .75 hour for each one.

dj
1974 SIII Airportable, "Smudger"

george kase wrote:
> 
> Anybody done this on a series III 88 without replacing everything else inside there?
> what's the minimum procedure possible...
> thanks
> George Kase
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 27
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 14:57:10 -0500
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Organization: U.S. International Broadcasting Bureau
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] scout pwr steering box was Timm Cooper
Reply-To: [email-masked]

You can get all the guts for a c-note, which I havejust done. TLC parts
are like Rover parts...astronomical.
Yes it is Binderbulletin.org, but the .com will get you there too.
-- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

--__--__--

Message: 28
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 15:27:32 -0500
From: Dick Joltes <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: aluminum sources and alloys
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Tim said:

> Are you planning on welding the rear floor to the body?
> If not then an exact alloy match should not be needed -
> just use rivets.  I doubt galvanic corrosion would be a
> big issue between reasonably similar aluminum alloys.

Nope, just planning on riveting it in.

> I think the price of 188.00 is rather high - especially
> since you don't need the full 4x8 sheet.  I spent 40.00
> for some nice thick aluminum to build new covers under
> my front seats - one of them swings up and is lockable.
> The sheet was about 4x31/2.  The shop I purchased from
> lets you go into the warehouse area and look through
> their scrap pieces - some of which are quite large.
> The left overs sell a lot cheaper than ordering a new
> piece.  But if you want to special order a particular
> alloy then it will likely cost.
> 
> Tim Czajka
> 1972 Series III 88

Much agreed on the price, especially since so much of it is carriage
and handling.  I'm going to check local scrap yards and machine 
shops to see what's available and if any are friendly enough to give
me a hand with this -- I hate to end up with lots of left-over bits
I may never (haha) use.

Incidentally, a useful resource for evaluating metal types can be
found at "Metal Suppliers Online" - http://www.suppliersonline.com.
Hit the 'research' section, plug in a spec (e.g. 5052, 6063, or 
what have you) and you can bring up technical data, including 
composition, general use, welding data, hardness, hard vs. cold-
work properties, and so forth.  Very handy.

Thanks for passing that data along, Tim!

dj

--__--__--

Message: 29
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 12:51:04 -0800
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Amazing discovery
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I was checking my oil levels and swivel balls etc on the 67 SWB V8 I have. I know that it
is the first thing that you do when you buy one. I was restoring the bigger parts first.
Anyway, I was at Land Rover in Sacramento the other day and bought two overpriced squeeze
bags of grease/oil for the front swivel balls. I opened up the drain/filler hole and was
amazed to see they were already full and level with the hole.  Last time opened, was
1986.  I had to suck it out before refilling it. The balls themselves are shiny and in
excellent condition because they were grease coated and emery cloth sanded to keep them
new looking by the last owner in the eighties.  This Land Rover used to be drag raced with
4 dragster rear tires on it sticking two feet out from the wheelarches up 100 ft sand
dunes in Nevada and California. Even with sand a grit everywhere the seals have not
leaked. The gearbox was full as were both axles and the transfer case.  It even does not
leak.  If it were a horse I should breed from it to further the line. I have deceided to
spend a little more hard earned loot on it and go the whole way. Comfy bench seat as
previously mentioned and if possible if Timm has the time, have Timm Cooper put power
steering in it. I am not financially too deep "in" it so far so it would be a good
investment I think.  I was very pleased when I saw the swivel balls full of oil.  The Last
owner must have liked it a lot because he bought it off three ex-wives as they left him
and hung on to it from 1986 to 2000 without driving it at all. It sat all that time in the
woods under leaves, heat, cold, snow, rain and wind until I found it.  Even then he did
not want to sell it unless I could prove I was an enthusiast and would restore it. He
turned to Jeeps in the eighties because Land Rovers were not imported and the parts were
expensive. He still has some Rubicon Ready nasty looking Jeeps as well even though he is
about 73 years old.  We pulled mine out of it's resting place with a CJ5 with air lockers
and all manner of modifications. It pulled the Landy out of where I would have been
surprised if it could have driven on it's own let alone towed another reluctant vehicle.
One of the things I am looking forward to doing is keeping the appointment with the last
owner to bring it back and show him I was serious about restoring it.  I think he will
like the way it came out.

--__--__--

Message: 30
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 14:25:40 -0800
Subject: [lro] Re: 3M marine sealant
Reply-To: [email-masked]

From: "Simon J. Harding" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 13:21:31 -0800
Subject: [lro] 3M marine sealant
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>I didn't find it but did see a caulk tube
of a 3M  Marine Sealant/Adhesive touted as useable above and below the water
line for sealing cracks, etc.

There are a lot of sealants/adhesives used in the marine industry.  There
are the 
silicone sealants, available in clear, white, and black.  There are "rubber"
sealants 
used for calking deck seams and so forth.   These go under brand names like
"Life 
Caulk."  Generally in black or white.  Great stuff if you're calking a deck.

but I'm not sure it would be the ideal substance for
sealing the roof panels of a Land Rover.  However, life-caulk is sandable
and 
paintable, although they do remain rubber-like and somewhat flexible.  There
is 
one sealant/adhesive that is incredibly strong, and is used to bed hardware
to hulls 
and so forth.  This is 3M 5200.  It's not recommended for anything you might
want 
someday to take apart.  Also, it is not flexible.  There are also marine
bedding 
compounds like Dophinite, but these would be unsuitable for sealing up roof
panel leaks.

One advantage of 5200 and even the Life Caulk calking compound is that they
are 
a bit thinner than standard silicone, and may be able to be forced up
farther into 
a seam.  Or not.....

I have to seal up the front edge of my SIII's forward roof panel, where it
overlaps 
the curved leading edge above the windscreen.  Borrowing the technique I use
for 
sealing windows and the like on our trawler, my plan is to blue-tape along 
both sides of the seam, leaving only the crack itself exposed.  I'll then
run a bead 
of sealant along the crack and force it in with my finger.  Once that's
done, I'll 
remove the tape, leaving only a clean-edged line of sealant.  
I am currently debating between the use of a clear silicon sealant or 5200
to squeeze 
along the crack and force up inside it.  I used black silicone years ago in
the rain 
gutter, and it did a pretty good job of sealing things up.  On the other
hand, 
5200 dries hard and can be sanded and painted, although I don't intend to do

either one to this roof seam.  And as I don't ever anticipate 
having to separate the front roof panel from the leading edge panel, the use

of a permanent-type sealant won't be a problem.  But, there is something 
to be said for the continuing flexibility of a silicone sealant.  However,
you 
can't paint very successfully over silicone sealant, and it does have a
finite 
life when exposed to the elements.  Eventually it will loosen or shrink, and

you'll have to remove it and repeat the sealing process, although it may be 
a few years before you have to do this.

But to answer your question, I think the use of a marine-type sealant to 
seal up seams in your roof is an acceptable idea.  Don't worry about the 
"good above or below the waterline" bit.  That's in reference to the 
sealant's ability to hold up when immersed full-time in the water.  The 
"above the waterline" stuff is fine for keeping the rain out of a crack;
that's 
what it's for, or you can use the "above and below" stuff if you wish.

A couple of years after buying my SIII, I noticed that when I drove in 
the rain, water would work its way up through the seam in the cargo bed 
floor panel and run all over the floor under the mat.  A solution suggested 
by a fisherman friend was to paint 
the floor with a sort of thin, brushable tar.  The inside of the vehicle
smelled 
like a paving project for a few weeks, but the floor seams have never 
leaked since (this was 26-plus years ago).  But I don't think I'd use 
this technique on a body or roof seam, as it's not very attractive.  I can't

remember the product we used anyway.
_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
(original owner)
1973 Land Rover Series III-88
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
Seattle

--__--__--

Message: 31
From: "Stude, Herman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] rear axle oil seal?
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 15:37:31 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

George:

I'm in the process of doing this procedure on my 1973 SIII 88.  The rear
pinion seal was dripping every time I stopped for 2-3 minutes or more about
a half dollar sized puddle.  I went and ordered a new pinion seal.  I then
went to take the old seal out (it was the old leather style.  It took a BFH
and a chisel and bending 3 craftsman screwdrivers to get it out.  Once I did
that I pulled the outer bearing, it was scored and on the recommendation of
my mechanic it had to go. Next, following the instructions in the Green
Bible I pulled the axle shafts out to get the differential out.  Then I
removed the hubs as they were leaking.  Brakes came out too.  The wheel/hub
bearings were thrashed so I had new races pressed in.  The hub oil seal
races were RUSTED, so I pressed new ones in (kind of fun actually).

I found a shop that only does differentials, they replaced the case bearings
and the inner and outer pinion bearings.  I called when got the drive shaft
reattached asking about how much wiggle I should have in the output flange
and they say not to worry the diff is in great shape, I was skeptical
because there was NO wiggle when I took it to them.  I put everything back
together, set the end float on the hubs, install new brake shoes.  I go to
back out the drive way and I feel grinding, crunching sounds.  Drain the
diff oil to find metal flakes, I see metal shavings on the u-joint shield,
tons of them.  All I did was go forward and back a few times maybe 200 feet
in all.

Off with the diff, remove the axle shafts, take the diff back to the shop.
I show them the wiggle that I was talking about, and the man's eyes almost
pop out of his head.  We chat for a while and I tell him that I'm just a
little peeved at this point.  He says he fully understands as he was the one
that worked on my differential.  He says he would be peeved as well.  He'll
open it up on Monday.

All this for a leaking pinion. So beware and good luck!

My current problem is that I replaced the brake shoes with the bonded style
from RN and got new drums as the old ones were turned to 10.078" (max is
10.06"), but I can't get the new drums on.  The adjusters are in all the
way, I have pressed the shoes together, what gives?  The old drums go on
fine.

These are the times when I need a little inspiration, because right now I'm
angry about having to remove the diff twice, and I can't get the new brake
drums on.  They are about 1/4 shy of there.  I'm tempted to run the old
drums for a while and let the shoes wear down a little.  Also, these new
style drums have an inner and outer lip that go on either side of the lip on
the baking plate, the old drums only have an inner lip.  I'm still almost
positive that my problem is new shoes and drums, but this is a little
ridiculous, that I can't get the new drums on.

Best to all and Happy Thanksgiving

Herman Stude
Houston, TX
1973 SIII 88

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf
Of george kase
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2001 12:06 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] rear axle oil seal?

Anybody done this on a series III 88 without replacing everything else
inside there?
what's the minimum procedure possible...
thanks
George Kase

--__--__--

Message: 32
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 15:05:15 -0800 (PST)
From: "Alan J. Richer" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Hamlet cooked on a manifold - the full version.
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

--- Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> You really Hathaway with words
> 

OW! I probably shouldn't respond as I'll likely
dis-play my ignorance.....

               aj"Well, Cranfield?"r

=====
Please ignore the following advertising.....
Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1

--__--__--

Message: 33
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "'Alan J. Richer '" <[email-masked]>, "[email-masked]
  '" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Hamlet cooked on a manifold - the full version.
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 18:31:29 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Don't worry. In this theatre we are Globe-ally tolerant

--- Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> You really Hathaway with words
> 

OW! I probably shouldn't respond as I'll likely
dis-play my ignorance.....

               aj"Well, Cranfield?"r

Well..........JC..... It's your turn.

--__--__--

Message: 34
From: "Stude, Herman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] rear axle oil seal?
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 17:34:56 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Got the brake drums on, just needed a bunch of carb cleaner on the braking
surface to get the rust protector off.  Now I have a shiny metal surface for
the brake pads to push on! One problem solved at a time.

Herman

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf
Of Stude, Herman
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2001 3:38 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: [lro] rear axle oil seal?

My current problem is that I replaced the brake shoes with the bonded style
from RN and got new drums as the old ones were turned to 10.078" (max is
10.06"), but I can't get the new drums on.  The adjusters are in all the
way, I have pressed the shoes together, what gives?  The old drums go on
fine.

These are the times when I need a little inspiration, because right now I'm
angry about having to remove the diff twice, and I can't get the new brake
drums on.  They are about 1/4 shy of there.  I'm tempted to run the old
drums for a while and let the shoes wear down a little.  Also, these new
style drums have an inner and outer lip that go on either side of the lip on
the baking plate, the old drums only have an inner lip.  I'm still almost
positive that my problem is new shoes and drums, but this is a little
ridiculous, that I can't get the new drums on.

--__--__--

Message: 35
From: "Scott Wickham" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] 109 to 88 and racing around the desk.
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 19:36:28 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> About 12 months back I purchased a Tyco R/C model of a Subaru from Costco.

  I was walking down the sidewalk past a Radio Shack and what do I spot in
the window?  The 'Croc Hunter' truck.  Right hand drive Toyota 'ute,
snorkel, canvas over the rear tray, rubber boat on the roof, and big
off-road tires.  ARB looking bar on front too.  Very cool!  I had to go in
to look at it.  It's only 2wd.  Comes with a rubber croc for the back.  No
LR but, still pretty cool.  $60USD.  I almost bought it for myself for
Christmas, still might.  Might be fun to terrorize the cats at DJ's place
for the club Christmas party ;)

Scooter

--__--__--

Message: 36
Subject: Re: [lro] scout pwr steering box was Timm Cooper
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 01 15:40:38 -0800
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>    One other thing, why are people set on the IH Scout box again?  I
>forgot.  The only ones I have seen were ALL TLC boxes.  Mind you I have
>never actually compared the setups, 100's of Malaysians with LR's can't be
>wrong, can they?  ;-)

The Scout II power steering box is a very nice fit on a series Land Rover 
and is about the easiest to connect.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 37
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 19:55:07 -0500
Subject: [lro] Thread pitch and diameter
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hello list, I am so sorry to bring this up, I realise it's talked about
almost every week...

But what size and thread pitch are SER III wheel studs? I know they're not
the BSF threads on my suffering IIA. As I patiently await my axles, I am
starting to gather information and parts to facilitate the swap, and I
figure that it will be easier to drive with wheels on the vehicle,

thank you,

J-L

--__--__--

Message: 38
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] 3M marine sealant
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 01:02:49 +0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

3M (my hero company) has a bunch of products but you were probably looking 
at 4200 or 5200 adhesive sealant. 4200 is removable. 5200 is not. There are 
quick cure versions of both and they both come in black or white (much more 
common). Very handy stuff but probably overused by most boaters (myself 
included ;-)

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
--author unknown

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 39
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 20:54:22 -0500
Subject: Re: [lro] aluminium sources and alloys
From: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Try 3003 in H16 or H18 hardness.  H18 is more brittle because it is in
its full work hardness, so if you are going to flex it much go with the
softer  states maybe even H14.  5052 only gets used around the race car
for wings when the radius is too sharp to form in 2024 or 606,1or when it
is found as cheep as 3003, then it is used like 3003.  

Your descriptions of  Birmabright have it related to 3003 or 3004
assuming that you meant 1.7%Mg and not 17%.   

To condense the above 5052 isn't worth the extra expense over 3003.

Hope this helps.

Chris

--__--__--

Message: 40
From: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 22:00:31 EST
Subject: Re: [lro] Perfect Series seat
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 11/20/01 8:26:30 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> The ideal one is a rear bench from a Ford Aerostar.  It is
> three abreast.  

Well, the thought of three abreast is perhaps too much. Takes the idea of 
"pleasantly fronted" a step too far. (tip of the hat to Frank)

I  picked up a fresh series 2-A missing almost all the seats a few weeks ago. 
 It has a drivers side seat  base only.  I got it back running again, and 
drove it around the yard and pastures with only the seat base, and that 
worked for comfort, but just barely.

As I was moving some stuff from the barn to the shop, I ran across a pile of 
stuff from an auction I'd attended and bought some odd lots. There were some 
John Deere items all of a bunch with some bolts, and I wanted the bolts. The 
other stuff sat in a pile, and included a tractor seat back. I set it in 
place, and it worked quite well. It tapers to the top, and sets the seat up 
more like it is one notch reclined. With my back problems the angle works 
much better.

All of which is a long way round to get to the best seat comes from the junk 
pile. Which after all is more or less where Mark got his, no disrespect 
intended.

Zack
from the junkpile.

--__--__--

Message: 41
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 08:04:45 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
Organization: AfricanAdrenalin.com
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Thread pitch and diameter
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Jean-Leon Morin wrote:
 
> But what size and thread pitch are SER III wheel studs?

16mm Metric Fine (16X1.5)

Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

--__--__--

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