Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #152 - 17 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 03:01:04 -0500 (EST)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: rear diff removal and hub seals (Paul Oxley)
   2. Mud, glorious mud! (Paul Oxley)
   3. Re: Chassis differences (A vs C) ([email-masked])
   4. Alternate Overdrive Part Numbers? (Peter & Julie Rosvall)
   5. Paint for my 109 (KEITH ARMSTRONG)
   6. Re: Paint for my 109 (Larry Smith)
   7. Re: Fuel gauges (Lonn & Rhonda)
   8. seat belts (alex&shane Rae)
   9. Re: Fuel gauges (Kirk Hillman)
  10. RE: Priceless :-) (Vel Natarajan)
  11. Re: Chassis differences (A vs C) (Keith Tanner)
  12. Re: Chassis differences (A vs C) (Paul Quin)
  13. Re: Chassis differences (A vs C) (Keith Tanner)
  14. Re: Chassis differences (A vs C) ([email-masked])
  15. Reverse (Garrick Olsen)
  16. Re: Fuel gauges (Kirk Hillman)
  17. Re: NATO Paint (KEITH ARMSTRONG)

--__--__--

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 10:55:23 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
Organization: AfricanAdrenalin.com
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] rear diff removal and hub seals
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Frank Elson wrote:
 
> Herman writes: >>>Also, when I pull the diff, will I need to support it?  Is
> it really heavy?<<<
> feels heavy, particularly if you pull it out onto your chest (which seems
> the easiest way) then getting it out from under.

Yeah, the main problem (IMHO) is that it's wet with oil, your hands are
wet with oil, and you invariably don't grip it properly the first time,
so it slips and, at this exact point, becomes BLOODY heavy.
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

--__--__--

Message: 2
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 10:58:32 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
Organization: AfricanAdrenalin.com
To: lro <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Mud, glorious mud!
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi all,

Remember I posted about a L-R hybrid that some mates were building as a
project some time ago. Well we took the Millennium Bug out to the quarry
yesterday and did our best to sink her in the deepest mudhole we could
find. Will post a link to images ASAP.

Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

--__--__--

Message: 3
From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 07:18:31 EST
Subject: Re: [lro] Chassis differences (A vs C)
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 11/10/2001 9:53:49 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

<< Basil is on a C chassis while my donor 
 bulkhead and chassis are off two separate A vehicles.
 
 Am I liable to meet any problems? For example, there is a "Top steering box 
 bracket" listed. Something I need to weld on the frame? >>

Nope.  The only major difference is where the rear tub attaches.  Later 
frames have attachment tabs than the early ones.  The steering bracket bolts 
on the frame.  Other steering box brackets bolt on the bulkhead (with various 
spacers).

Nate

--__--__--

Message: 4
From: "Peter & Julie Rosvall" <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO" <[email-masked]>, "uk-lro" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 09:11:08 -0400
Subject: [lro] Alternate Overdrive Part Numbers?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hello All:

Does anyone know of some alternate part numbers for Fairy overdrive parts
i.e. bearings?

Alternately, does anyone know of any parts suppliers for overdrive bits? I
know that Rovers Down South maintain an inventory. Any help would be greatly
appreciated.

Thanks,

Peter Rosvall
Wolfville, Nova Scotia

--__--__--

Message: 5
From: "KEITH ARMSTRONG" <[email-masked]>
To: "lro-digest" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 07:19:31 -0600
Subject: [lro] Paint for my 109
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I've tried sending this twice before but...Landie, Diff, Axle....

After a nice bit of off road in Kansas (no it's not all flat) I need to add
a little green and black to my MoD 109.

This stuff looks like plain old house paint!  What should I be looking
for.... and I think the squaddie brushed on look is just fine.

Thanks

Keith Armstrong
Des Moines, Iowa

--__--__--

Message: 6
From: "Larry Smith" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Paint for my 109
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 08:45:02 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Keith,

There are several suppliers of US aftermarket version IRR paint.  It is VERY
close to the UK MOD.  You WILL NOT be able to get genuine IRR because of the
cancer causing and environmentally unfriendly gasses.

If interested, let me know off list and I will get you some addresses.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA
----- Original Message -----
From: "KEITH ARMSTRONG" <[email-masked]>
To: "lro-digest" <[email-masked]>
Sent: 11 November, 2001 08:19 AM
Subject: [lro] Paint for my 109

>
> I've tried sending this twice before but...Landie, Diff, Axle....
>
> After a nice bit of off road in Kansas (no it's not all flat) I need to
add
> a little green and black to my MoD 109.
>
> This stuff looks like plain old house paint!  What should I be looking
> for.... and I think the squaddie brushed on look is just fine.
>
> Thanks
>
> Keith Armstrong
> Des Moines, Iowa
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 7
From: "Lonn & Rhonda" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Fuel gauges
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 08:11:34 -0800
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Kirk, these switches are dead simple.  You can take one down to an
electronics parts dealer, even a Radio Shack will do, and find a
suitable replacement.  But before you do that... electrically connect
the wires from the switch together then ground the fuel sender wire to
see if your needle swings.  If the needle swings, replace the switch.
Or repair it!  IIRR, the bakelite back is held in place with two metal
tabs.  Unbend the tabs and pull the switch apart, then clean the
contacts and reassemble.

But before you do any of that, make sure that you have good
connections at the tank senders and switches, 'cuz that'll give you
flaky readings.  On my ex-MOD 109 the contacts were all green and
fuzzy.

Lonn

Thinking in reverse today...

--__--__--

Message: 8
From: "alex&shane Rae" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 16:35:51 +0000
Subject: [lro] seat belts
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Anyone know where to find some inexpensive seat belts for my S3? Shane

------------------------------------------------------------------------

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--__--__--

Message: 9
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Fuel gauges
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 10:03:39 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Lonn,
    That's JUST what I wanted to here. I will pull the switch apart today
and see what's up.  You don't happen to know a quick easy fix for the seal
in the valve body do you?

Thanks
Kirk

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lonn & Rhonda" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2001 9:11 AM
Subject: Re: [lro] Fuel gauges

>
> Kirk, these switches are dead simple.  You can take one down to an
> electronics parts dealer, even a Radio Shack will do, and find a
> suitable replacement.  But before you do that... electrically connect
> the wires from the switch together then ground the fuel sender wire to
> see if your needle swings.  If the needle swings, replace the switch.
> Or repair it!  IIRR, the bakelite back is held in place with two metal
> tabs.  Unbend the tabs and pull the switch apart, then clean the
> contacts and reassemble.
>
> But before you do any of that, make sure that you have good
> connections at the tank senders and switches, 'cuz that'll give you
> flaky readings.  On my ex-MOD 109 the contacts were all green and
> fuzzy.
>
> Lonn
>
> Thinking in reverse today...
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 10
From: "Vel Natarajan" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Priceless :-)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 11:09:16 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Perhaps your thinking of "Soren Vels" (I think that was his name)...
Different fella.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf
> Of Mark Pilkington
> Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2001 11:32 AM
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: [lro] Priceless :-)
> 
> 
> 
> Vel,
>     I thought you were in Norway or something.
> Mark
> 
> Vel Natarajan wrote:
> 
> > No, that was a great story.  Almost felt like I was there.  Thanks for
> > sharing it!
> >
> > I have a set of Hakkapellitta's on one car, and a set of 
> Blizzaks on another
> > for the winter.  Neither are studded as they are illegal in 
> Illinois.  The
> > Hakka's do better in pure snow, the Blizzaks are better on ice...
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: [email-masked] 
> [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf
> > > Of Mark Pilkington
> > > Sent: Friday, November 09, 2001 10:48 AM
> > > To: [email-masked]
> > > Subject: Re: [lro] Priceless :-)
> > >
> > > ...
> > >
> > > Kind regards,
> > > Mark.
> > > Sorry, got a bit carried away there....
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 11
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 10:24:15 -0500
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Chassis differences (A vs C)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Nope.  The only major difference is where the rear tub attaches.  Later
>frames have attachment tabs than the early ones.

So I'll have to fit these tabs on my early frame, or are the tubs identical?

Keith
------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

--__--__--

Message: 12
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 10:25:58 -0800
From: Paul Quin <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Chassis differences (A vs C)
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Nate says:

"The only major difference is where the rear tub attaches.  Later
frames have attachment tabs than the early ones. "
              ^^^^^^

Missing a word here?  More or less tabs?

Just curious, I'd never heard that there was a difference at the rear cross
member.

I replaced my rotten rear cross member on my SII five years ago and the
aftermarket bit was an exact fit replacement for the rotten bit.  My chassis
is Series Two, no suffix (S/N 144101239)

(You know you've been at the Rover too much when it's easier to remember
your chassis number than your phone number...)

Picture at: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/lrxmember3.jpg

Paul in Victoria.

----- Original Message -----
From: <[email-masked]>

>
> In a message dated 11/10/2001 9:53:49 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> [email-masked] writes:
>
> << Basil is on a C chassis while my donor
>  bulkhead and chassis are off two separate A vehicles.
>
>  Am I liable to meet any problems? For example, there is a "Top steering
box
>  bracket" listed. Something I need to weld on the frame? >>
>
> Nope.  The only major difference is where the rear tub attaches.  Later
> frames have attachment tabs than the early ones.  The steering bracket
bolts
> on the frame.  Other steering box brackets bolt on the bulkhead (with
various
> spacers).
> Nate

--__--__--

Message: 13
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 14:42:50 -0500
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Chassis differences (A vs C)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

When I bought the replacement rear crossmember for my IIa (C suffix), there 
was no difference in the tabs either. I'm guessing that any difference must 
be underneath if it exists?

Keith
------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

--__--__--

Message: 14
From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 18:13:55 EST
Subject: Re: [lro] Chassis differences (A vs C)
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 11/11/2001 1:31:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, [email-masked] 
writes:

<< Nate says:
 
 "The only major difference is where the rear tub attaches.  Later
 frames have attachment tabs than the early ones. "
               ^^^^^^
 
 Missing a word here?  More or less tabs?

Sorry,

More tabs (on the frame).  The tabs are for attaching the front of the tub, 
not the rear.

Nate

--__--__--

Message: 15
From: "Garrick Olsen" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 20:15:52 -0600
Subject: [lro] Reverse
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Oh, Digest!  This is as embarassing as when I read the torque specs wrong
and tore off a bolt in the flywheel when no hardware stores were open; or
when I spent 2 weeks trying to increase the articulation of the slave
cylinder to finally find that the master is adjustable. I had to park the
Landie outside since morning frost had formed on my wife's car and there
were no parts off the Rover.  I was backing up to the outside wall of the
garage and could not see behind me in the dark. I thought I must have
knocked the reverse light switch at the transmission with the clutch work
this spring and the hand brake I just finished.   I looked in the Haynes
manual (Christmas is comming...) and found NO REVERSE LIGHT. This after
brush painting in '99 and installing a license plate light in '98.  Now I
see that there are only an orange and red on each side.   ?How do the
rest of you see behind when reversing or warn others of your retreat? -Rikin
Minnesota1960 SWB SW Series Two 2.25 sometine became neg earth PS:ajr- I
read the Haynes and looked at some pictures.  The brackety things that
hold the drive shaft have holes in them for the oil to go through.  Mine
are wide (leaky?) so that even with a new oil pump, I would still get a
loss of pressure once the motor warms the oil and reduces its viscosity. 
Right? (except for the run-on (dieseling?) sentence?)

------------------------------------------------------------------------

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--__--__--

Message: 16
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Fuel gauges
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 20:44:10 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Lonn, and all those that responded, thanks.  I now have a gauge that works
all the time and on either tank.  If only you could see my grin.  :-)
    I took apart the switches.  The one that was bad had nothing wrong with
it.  Inside they look like new.  The problem was that contacts needed to be
bent down about .002" to make good contact with the little brass disk that
connects them.  I can't believe some things are so simple.  The guy that I
bought the LR from said the fuel gauge was always spotty.  That leads me to
believe the one switch may have made poor contact from day one.  I would
drive down the road without the gauge working and all of a sudden a bump
would trigger it.  Not any more!
    Of course, as always happens, shipfitter's set in and before I knew it
the fuel pump was rebuilt, the filters were washed out, the lines tidied up,
and the carb jetted and tuned.  Oh well, I guess I can live with the new
working gauge and smooth running 2-1/4.  It may not be the same LR as when I
bought it, but I LIKE IT!

Cheers,
Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 17
From: "KEITH ARMSTRONG" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 08:00:31 -0600
Subject: [lro] Re: NATO Paint
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi all,

Just came back from a nice weekend of off-roading north of Manhattan, KS.
Really!

Managed to get a bit close to a tree and need to slap on some more green and
black on the ex-MoD 109.

Does anyone know, is this stuff really what we would expect to be typical
automobbile paint, 'cause it sure looks like plain ol' house paint?

tia,

Keith Armstrong
Des Moines, Iowa

--__--__--

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End of LRO Digest