Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #140 - 39 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 03:11:12 -0500 (EST)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Hilift jack handle retainers (Andy Woodward)
   2. Re: Cold galvanising exhaust (Andy Woodward)
   3. RE: Torque wrenches and Land Rovers (Andy Woodward)
   4. Re: Torque wrenches and Land Rovers (Andy Woodward)
   5. RE: Torque wrenches and Land Rovers (Tom Rowe)
   6. RE: Torque wrenches and Land Rovers (Tom Rowe)
   7. Re: I don't need another fire ([email-masked])
   8. Pondering the Smiths "heater" (Rob MacCormick)
   9. Re: Pondering the Smiths "heater" (richer alan)
  10. removing key barrels (William L Leacock)
  11. Re: How to Send $$ to UK (Hope Peter)
  12. Re: removing key barrels (richer alan)
  13. Parts wanted (Mark Pilkington)
  14. Wheel cylinder question (Jeff Bieler)
  15. RE: Torque wrenches and Land Rovers (USER hls)
  16. Re: Wheel cylinder question (richer alan)
  17. Re: Wheel cylinder question (Mark Pilkington)
  18. Manifold coatings (A. P. (Sandy) Grice)
  19. How to Send $$ to UK (A. P. (Sandy) Grice)
  20. Re: Pondering the Smiths "heater" (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  21. Re: Manifold coatings (Rich Williams II)
  22. Waste Oil Heater? (Chris)
  23. Re: How to Send $$ to UK (David Scheidt)
  24. Waste Oil Heater? (Chris)
  25. I want parts too (William J. Rice)
  26. World's Best ever 100 vehicles...and Land Rover finishes... (Tackley, John)
  27. Re: Wheel cylinder question (Jeff Bieler)
  28. Waste Oil Heater? (Chris)
  29. disco water leaks (mark rich)
  30. Re: Waste Oil Heater? (Rich Williams II)
  31. Re: Waste Oil Heater? (Rich Williams II)
  32. RE: Torque wrenches and Land Rovers (Vel Natarajan)
  33. Re: How to Send $$ to UK (Frank Elson)
  34. Re: Torque wrenches and Land Rovers ([email-masked])
  35. Re: LRO digest, Vol 1 #139 - 43 msgs (Chris)
  36. brake question pt 2.... (Jeff Bieler)
  37. Re: Parts wanted (Paul Quin)
  38. Re: How to Send $$ to UK (Frank Elson)
  39. Re: brake question pt 2.... (David Scheidt)

--__--__--

Message: 1
From: "Andy Woodward" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 10:38:50 -0000
Subject: Re: [lro] Hilift jack handle retainers
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> > I rivet a short length of 25mm (1") nylon strap to the handle, and
> > put a balliistic nylon quick release clip on it.
> Thanks Paul.  ANother great idea.  We call em fastex clips in the Army
> and I have a bunch of em.  It will either be the buckle or
> velcro....maybe both. Pete

Pushbike quick-release toestraps.

--__--__--

Message: 2
From: "Andy Woodward" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 10:38:50 -0000
Subject: Re: [lro] Cold galvanising exhaust
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> I used hi temp bbq grill paint and so far so good.  Did the gmc
> exhaust 4 years ago and still only the lightest of surface rust. Pete

That's what I use on the motorbike - every fortnight :(

And that's *after* carefully putting 3 coats on before mounting it cos 
the manufacturer's finish is legendarily bad :(

--__--__--

Message: 3
From: "Andy Woodward" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 11:12:16 -0000
Subject: RE: [lro] Torque wrenches and Land Rovers
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> I have a 3/8" Craftsman, and I've just use an adapter to size up to
> 1/2" or down to 1/4".   Seems a lot cheaper to do it this way... Is
> there any loss of accuracy in doing this?

Yes. They are not precise in their lower ranges (which is wher the 
most annoyingly fragile fasteners and studs are found). A 1/4 inch 
torque wrench in inch/lbs is worth its weight in gold. They CAN be 
found, but you have to look hard :(   I had to get my brother to send 
one over from hte US.

--__--__--

Message: 4
From: "Andy Woodward" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 11:12:16 -0000
Subject: Re: [lro] Torque wrenches and Land Rovers
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Personally, I like a ratcheting torque wrench with a
> click indicator. Considering the torque of some of the
> fasteners and the amount of beef sometimes necessary
> to get them there it's often hard to watch the
> indicator on a bar-type wrench and yank on it at the
> same time.

The other side of hte argument is that beam wrenches dont go out 
of calibration. I use a beam wrench (cheap) to check teh calibration 
of my click wrench (expensive) then use the clicker.
 
> Snap-On? Why bother? It's not like you're going to use
> it every day 8 hours a day. Just don't buy a Harbor

My view too. Buy cheap but reasonable qaulity amd replace only 
those things you actually break in your particular useage with top 
qaulity items. Why pay for a set of top sockets, most of which 
never get used?

--__--__--

Message: 5
From: "Tom Rowe" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 05:55:10 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: [lro] Torque wrenches and Land Rovers
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Tue, 30 Oct 2001 18:05:25 -0600, Vel Natarajan wrote:

> have a 3/8" Craftsman, and I've just use an adapter to size up to 1/2" or
>down to 1/4".   Seems a lot cheaper to do it this way...
>Is there any loss of accuracy in doing this?

No, I just have two as they cover different ranges of torgue values.

--__--__--

Message: 6
From: "Tom Rowe" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 06:01:40 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: [lro] Torque wrenches and Land Rovers
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Wed, 31 Oct 2001 11:12:16 -0000, Andy Woodward wrote:

>
>> I have a 3/8" Craftsman, and I've just use an adapter to size up to
>> 1/2" or down to 1/4".   Seems a lot cheaper to do it this way... Is
>> there any loss of accuracy in doing this?
>
>Yes. They are not precise in their lower ranges (which is wher the 
>most annoyingly fragile fasteners and studs are found). A 1/4 inch 
>torque wrench in inch/lbs is worth its weight in gold. They CAN be 
>found, but you have to look hard :(   I had to get my brother to send 
>one over from hte US.

I think (hope) Andy and I were addressing your question from different angles (no pun 
intended). I was referring to the effect a 1/2" or 1/4" adaptor would have on the 
accuracy,which is none. Andy is indeed correct that the accruacy of a torque wrench 
drops as you get into the lower ranges of it's capacity. (The reason I have both 3/8 and 
1/2 drive)

--__--__--

Message: 7
From: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 08:01:48 EST
Subject: Re: [lro] I don't need another fire
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 10/30/01 5:22:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> > > It also doesn't fit the stock fuel lines.  
> > 
> > 
> > What's that?  I've been running with 1/4 inch fuel line without problems. 
>  
> 
> The hard plasticy stuff, or rubber lines?  I recall trying to put one of 
> the
> genuine pumps on a truck with hard lines, and not having things line up
> correctly.
> 

That might be right.  I use rubber fuel line.  The pump sits proud of the 
block by a little bit (the new cover has a 1/2 or so spacer) so it might 
cause a problem with hard lines.

Nate

--__--__--

Message: 8
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 09:43:08 -0500
From: Rob MacCormick <[email-masked]>
Organization: Boston College
To: LRO list <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Pondering the Smiths "heater"
Reply-To: [email-masked]

My commuter car failed (slave cylinder on clutch) the other day so I was
"forced" to drive the dormobile to work for a couple of days.....It has
a Smiths heater and I know these units are held by some to put out
little heat.....I am one of these people. Is there something I can do to
improve the performance of the unit?

I put some cardboard in front of part of the radiator and that helped
elevate the water temp to a useful degree. The fan however seems to move
a barely perceptable volume of air.....I'm wondering if its wired
incorrectly and is running backward and provided some but little
airflow.

I replaced the Honda clutch slave last night and enlisted my wife's help
in bleeding the system....She likened it to milking a cow.....

Rob M
Concord, MA USA

--__--__--

Message: 9
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 07:18:46 -0800 (PST)
From: richer alan <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Pondering the Smiths "heater"
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

 Is there
> something I can do to
> improve the performance of the unit?
> 

Don't expect a ton of heat from it - the core is
rather small and the blower is wimpy at best.

Insulate the coolant lines going to it, oil the motor,
angle the fan blades a little sharper and hope for the
best.

A higher-temp thermostat would also likely be a winner
for that Chevy powerplant.

ajr

=====
Please ignore the following advertising.....
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com

--__--__--

Message: 10
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 09:34:07 -0500
From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] removing key barrels
Reply-To: [email-masked]

  It depends what device you are removing the old key barrel from.
 On Lucas ignition switches for example, the key barrel is retianed by a
spring loaded peg.  Removal of the key barrel is simply a matter of
depressing the peg and pullling out the key barrel.  The peg can  be
found in a variety of positions, depending upon which model of switch.
Look for a hole in the switch, approx. an inch from the front of the
switch, poke a piece of wire in the hole and push.  Voila!!
  When the barrel is removed it is a simple matter to re key the barrel. 
There are several key series used in old british cars, FP  and  FS  are
probably the most common, a few hundred variants of each.  If you find a
key that fits,  then you will observe a number of thin pieces of metal
protruding from the key barrel, file them down while the key is fitted,
hopefully, when the key is removed there are enough locking plates left
protruding for the lock to function.  Thus it is a simple matter to make
all your locks use the same key!

Regards from Western New York State

  Bill Leacock.

--__--__--

Message: 11
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] How to Send $$ to UK
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 07:54:16 -0800
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> I need to send money (UKP ) to a private individual in the UK for some
> LR Parts he found for me at the sortout.As this is private credit card
> is not an option.

I have had a couple of transactions where people didn't want USD, so I went
to my local bank.  20$ for a cashiers check in any denomination I needed.
This only happened a few times every one else I was dealing with would
accept USD and I just sent em a regular US Postal money order.
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 12
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 08:03:26 -0800 (PST)
From: richer alan <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] removing key barrels
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

--- William L Leacock <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
>If you find a
> key that fits,  then you will observe a number of
> thin pieces of metal
> protruding from the key barrel, file them down while
> the key is fitted,
> hopefully, when the key is removed there are enough
> locking plates left
> protruding for the lock to function.  Thus it is a
> simple matter to make
> all your locks use the same key!
> 
> Regards from Western New York State
> 
>   Bill Leacock.

What a great idea! One way to make sure you do is to
rearrange the plates a bit so that they more-or-less
match the key, then take a file to them.

Thanks Bill - another one for the skillset.

                 ajr

=====
Please ignore the following advertising.....
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com

--__--__--

Message: 13
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 08:34:45 -0800
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Parts wanted
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Does anyone have the following.
Front drive shaft for 67 Series IIa SWB complete.
Or
The little clamp that goes on the sliding rear window of a safari hardtop where
it hooks over the top rail and then bolts right through the glass.  I need 2.
Thanks.
Mark Pilkington

--__--__--

Message: 14
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 08:35:44 -0800
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Wheel cylinder question
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Just got new Lucas wheel cylinders to replace the 3 seized ones on my truck.

After triple checking the part #'s, I am confused on which side the
cylinders go on.

According to the part #'s and the boxes the parts came in, #243297 is a Left
Front cylinder and #243296 is a Right Front cylinder.  The wheel cylinders
(apparently due to the lack of markings not Lucas) on the truck now have the
brake pipe inlets facing forward.  If I put the new parts on per the box #'s
on them, the inlet pipes will be at the rear of the wheel.

Which is correct?

Thanks (as I sit staring a mess of brake parts in my drive).

Jeff

--__--__--

Message: 15
From: USER hls <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Torque wrenches and Land Rovers
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 10:41:05 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Thanks to all for their input on wrenches, thinking I might do a Sears click
model in a 1/2" drive.

Anyone have any input on replacing the rear pinion seal on a non Salisbury
axle?

Best,

Herman
1973 SIII 88
Topless in Texas

--__--__--

Message: 16
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 08:42:46 -0800 (PST)
From: richer alan <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Wheel cylinder question
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

They're supposed to be at the back, to avoid getting
snagged by stuff that would be blocked by the axle.

Were I you, I'd spend the extra 10 bucks and replace
the brake pipes too, rerouting them properly. You can
get brake pipes at AutoZone that will fit, with the
proper British ends on them to boot. 

If you want to, though, the cylinders can be swapped
side-to-side to align with the present setup.

           ajr

--- Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> Just got new Lucas wheel cylinders to replace the 3
> seized ones on my truck.
> 
> After triple checking the part #'s, I am confused on
> which side the
> cylinders go on.
> 
> According to the part #'s and the boxes the parts
> came in, #243297 is a Left
> Front cylinder and #243296 is a Right Front
> cylinder.  The wheel cylinders
> (apparently due to the lack of markings not Lucas)
> on the truck now have the
> brake pipe inlets facing forward.  If I put the new
> parts on per the box #'s
> on them, the inlet pipes will be at the rear of the
> wheel.
> 
> Which is correct?
> 
> Thanks (as I sit staring a mess of brake parts in my
> drive).
> 
> Jeff
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

=====
Please ignore the following advertising.....
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com

--__--__--

Message: 17
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 08:48:42 -0800
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Wheel cylinder question
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Jeff,
    I just put all my new ones on as the old ones were.  The front ones are
bigger than the rear ones.  That is the only thing I think you HAVE to get
right.
Mark

Jeff Bieler wrote:

> Just got new Lucas wheel cylinders to replace the 3 seized ones on my truck.
>
> After triple checking the part #'s, I am confused on which side the
> cylinders go on.
>
> According to the part #'s and the boxes the parts came in, #243297 is a Left
> Front cylinder and #243296 is a Right Front cylinder.  The wheel cylinders
> (apparently due to the lack of markings not Lucas) on the truck now have the
> brake pipe inlets facing forward.  If I put the new parts on per the box #'s
> on them, the inlet pipes will be at the rear of the wheel.
>
> Which is correct?
>
> Thanks (as I sit staring a mess of brake parts in my drive).
>
> Jeff
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 18
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 12:15:28 -0500
To: [email-masked]
From: "A. P. (Sandy) Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Manifold coatings
Reply-To: [email-masked]

"Martin Rothman" <[email-masked]>

>Another option is to have your manifold and header done with a ceramic 
>finish.  Same general process as powder coating, but the final finish is 
>rock hard, will handle very high temps and won't crack.

>I have seen a number of hot rod and motorcycle exhausts done this way.  
>Verrry nice.

This is the "JetHot" coating, a finish durable enough to be applied to jet
aircraft turbine parts.  Very durable, but also very expensive and only a
few places do it.  Another, less expensive alternative is 'aluminizing', a
process that is a cross between a MIG welder and a paint spray gun.  Molten
aluninum droplets are sprayed on the surface and it lasts 8-10 years on a a
2.25 exhaust manifold.  Last time, it was around $60...but I only paid $40
for the new manifold.  Go figure....

	*-----"jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is legendary"----*
	|                 A. P. "Sandy" Grice                  |
	|    The Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd    |
	|     1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
	*------------------------------------------------------*

--__--__--

Message: 19
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 12:15:29 -0500
To: [email-masked]
From: "A. P. (Sandy) Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] How to Send $$ to UK
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Stece bradke <[email-masked]> wrote:

>I need to send money (UKP ) to a private individual in the UK for some
>LR Parts he found for me at the sortout.As this is private credit card
>is not an option.
>No banks here in the area have BKP available , even if they did I would
>hesitate to send notes in the mail.
>  The US post office has interbnational Money orders but you but them at
>a  local post office add a fee of $8.50  then send the  form to St.
>Louis where it then takes 2 weeks for them to convert USD to UKP and
>send it out...
>Any other ways (read Cheap) to accomplish this?

Just about any bank should be able to write you an international bank
draft, but why bother?  Last couple of times I sent off a cheque to any of
the various LR magazines for a subscription, I just converted the yearly
subscription to dollars, wrote a cheque on my own account for that much and
mailed it off.  It always went through (albeit slowly), but maybe a
subscription-based operation such as a magazine handles things differently
than the average bloke.

When converting currency, the teller will ask if this is a 'buy' or a
'sell', that is, if you are buying pounds from the bank or selling them
back and converting to American currency.  (If you bought ten pounds worth
and immediately sold 'em back, you'd lose about 20% in the exhange.)  Don't
let 'em do this...just ask for the daily rate.  An AMEX traveler's cheque
is another option.

Cheers

--__--__--

Message: 20
Subject: Re: [lro] Pondering the Smiths "heater"
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 01 09:59:25 -0800
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>My commuter car failed (slave cylinder on clutch) the other day so I was
>"forced" to drive the dormobile to work for a couple of days.....It has
>a Smiths heater and I know these units are held by some to put out
>little heat.....I am one of these people. Is there something I can do to
>improve the performance of the unit?

Has the core ever been cleaned out?

TR3s use the same style heater.  The overall flow through reach rod is 
slow enough for stuff to settle over time. Mine was completely clogged 
and I got it completely unclogged with about a month's worth of work.

The key is remembering that the core is a LOW PRESSURE unit.  You pour 
liqued into it and never under pressure.  I basically held it under a 
faucet but at least in inch away from the outlet so it could not build 
any pressure beyond the velocity of the water coming out.

I would run water into both sides, shake it around a bit, drain it & 
repeat until I got bored  then refill it with water & dish soap and let 
it sit for a while.

Initially mine was completely clogged and took almost no water.  But I 
kept up with this until clear water flowed freely and leaving it 
overnight filled with water followd by shaking did not produce 
discoloured water.

Mine also had a dirt buildup in between the rods in the fins.  WHile you 
have it out for cleaning you can connect it to a battery and get a feel 
for the motor and fan condition.

A clean core makes a big difference.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 21
From: "Rich Williams II" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Manifold coatings
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 10:17:13 -0800
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On my dad's competition Jaguars he has used a number of sources for coating
the exhaust manifolds to get that super high gloss finish.  One is JetHot,
but we found that the finish did not have any durability as they would crack
within a few hundred miles.  The solution was to drive to a concours and
then change the manifolds onsite (a set for driving and a set for show).
And that's a PITA on a XK150.  The next idea was to go through a company
that made funeral urns and containers for cremation.  They had a great high
temp coating that was more durable than JetHot and looked as nice - then the
company went out of business.  We heard that there are some other urn
companies that do this as well but we didn't go looking.  Finally we found a
local company that's the best I've seen yet.  Performance Coatings -
www.performancecoatings.com - usual disclaimers of course.  After seeing
Dad's manifolds come out so well I took mine down to them.  I had the
original SII manifold that was your typical lump of rust.  4 days and $85
later I got back the sweetest looking manifold for a LR that you've ever
seen.  I didn't go with the "show" finish but a utilitarian matte finish
that is perfect for the old Landy.

Rich
1960 SII 109 SW

----- Original Message -----
From: A. P. (Sandy) Grice <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 9:15 AM
Subject: [lro] Manifold coatings

"Martin Rothman" <[email-masked]>

>Another option is to have your manifold and header done with a ceramic
>finish.  Same general process as powder coating, but the final finish is
>rock hard, will handle very high temps and won't crack.

>I have seen a number of hot rod and motorcycle exhausts done this way.
>Verrry nice.

This is the "JetHot" coating, a finish durable enough to be applied to jet
aircraft turbine parts.  Very durable, but also very expensive and only a
few places do it.  Another, less expensive alternative is 'aluminizing', a
process that is a cross between a MIG welder and a paint spray gun.  Molten
aluninum droplets are sprayed on the surface and it lasts 8-10 years on a a
2.25 exhaust manifold.  Last time, it was around $60...but I only paid $40
for the new manifold.  Go figure....

*-----"jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is legendary"----*
|                 A. P. "Sandy" Grice                  |
|    The Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd    |
|     1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
*------------------------------------------------------*
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 22
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 10:25:15 -0800
To: [email-masked]
From: Chris <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Waste Oil Heater?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

What about those waste oil heaters I see plans for on the web? You could 
burn up all that old 20W50 and 90W!

Chris

--__--__--

Message: 23
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 13:37:43 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] How to Send $$ to UK
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Wed, 31 Oct 2001, Hope Peter wrote:

> 
> This only happened a few times every one else I was dealing with would
> accept USD and I just sent em a regular US Postal money order.

This is a bad idea.  The US Postal money order is for domestic use only.
The Post Office can, and does, refuse to honor money orders presented for
payment by a bank that's not in the US, its terroritories, or the Freely
Associated States.  Make sure you get an international money order if you
send money abroad.  (You can get them in US Dollars)

David

--__--__--

Message: 24
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 10:45:55 -0800
To: [email-masked]
From: Chris <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Waste Oil Heater?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

What about those waste oil heaters I see plans for on the web? You could 
burn up all that old 20W50 and 90W!

Chris

PS:

http://www.heco.net/Wasteoil.htm
http://www.cyberport.net/russ/benjamin/
http://www.usedoilheaters.com/Model_145_Heater.html

etc, etc

--__--__--

Message: 25
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 11:48:49 -0700
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] I want parts too
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I'm considering actually making Mrs. Merdle lock-able for the first time
since I've owned her.  Got a new tumbler and key from RN--only problem is
they're not for my SIIA handles--they're for a SIII (non-anti burst)
latch.  Anyone have one of these out on a parts truck they want to sell
me and I'll just drill a hole for the tumbler in my door skin and be all
set ?

bill

--__--__--

Message: 26
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 14:13:32 -0500
Subject: [lro] World's Best ever 100 vehicles...and Land Rover finishes...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

This is interesting, given the judges who did the ranking...see for yourself
at:

http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/jtackley/php3/openframe.php3?page=top100/index.
html

Just in case, Land Rover was 6th and the Range Rover 32nd!

JT/ric

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Message: 27
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 11:46:11 -0800
Subject: Re: [lro] Wheel cylinder question
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Up front, the flex lines were no problem to route to the rear of the
cylinder and the hoses still look/feel like they are in good shape.  The
fittings show no corrosion, etc. and everything screws/unscrews without
excessive force.

The right rear cylinder was no problem.

Now that the system has been bleed, I just need to get the driveway clear
and take her for a test drive.

The cylinders I pulled are pretty gunked up.  I may tear them apart to see
if they can be salvaged for future rebuilds at my leisure.

Jeff

on 10/31/01 8:42 AM, richer alan at [email-masked] wrote:

> 
> They're supposed to be at the back, to avoid getting
> snagged by stuff that would be blocked by the axle.
> 
> Were I you, I'd spend the extra 10 bucks and replace
> the brake pipes too, rerouting them properly. You can
> get brake pipes at AutoZone that will fit, with the
> proper British ends on them to boot.
> 
> If you want to, though, the cylinders can be swapped
> side-to-side to align with the present setup.
> 
> ajr
> 
> --- Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]> wrote:
>> 
>> Just got new Lucas wheel cylinders to replace the 3
>> seized ones on my truck.
>> 
>> After triple checking the part #'s, I am confused on
>> which side the
>> cylinders go on.
>> 
>> According to the part #'s and the boxes the parts
>> came in, #243297 is a Left
>> Front cylinder and #243296 is a Right Front
>> cylinder.  The wheel cylinders
>> (apparently due to the lack of markings not Lucas)
>> on the truck now have the
>> brake pipe inlets facing forward.  If I put the new
>> parts on per the box #'s
>> on them, the inlet pipes will be at the rear of the
>> wheel.
>> 
>> Which is correct?
>> 
>> Thanks (as I sit staring a mess of brake parts in my
>> drive).
>> 
>> Jeff
>> _______________________________________________
>> LRO mailing list
>> [email-masked]
>> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> 
> 
> =====
> Please ignore the following advertising.....
> Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
> http://personals.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 28
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 12:14:41 -0800
To: [email-masked]
From: Chris <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Waste Oil Heater?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

My post kinda got me started so here is a great link on the subject of 
waste oil heaters:

http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_library/ethanol_motherearth/me4.html

PS this is a rather appropriate topic for a LR list as most of us have cold 
shops in the winter and lots of use oil.

--__--__--

Message: 29
From: "mark rich" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 21:05:57 -0000
Subject: [lro] disco water leaks
Reply-To: [email-masked]

come to the uk we know about water leaks
reseal roof windows and cargo area windows
must reseal both glass to rubber and rubber to body

also check rear (tail) door adjustment as water can creep in there to

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Message: 30
From: "Rich Williams II" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Waste Oil Heater?
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 13:35:42 -0800
Reply-To: [email-masked]

maybe an early dinner at redmond cafe then a movie

check citysearch and see if there is anything at bella

k-pak might be one to see

--__--__--

Message: 31
From: "Rich Williams II" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Waste Oil Heater?
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 14:32:22 -0800
Reply-To: [email-masked]

HA! Joke's on me

Well I guess you all know where I am taking my wife this evening.

Rich

maybe an early dinner at redmond cafe then a movie

check citysearch and see if there is anything at bella

k-pak might be one to see
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 32
From: "Vel Natarajan" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Torque wrenches and Land Rovers
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 17:41:15 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

That clarifies it.  Thanks...

Rgds,
Vel

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf
Of Tom Rowe
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 5:02 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: [lro] Torque wrenches and Land Rovers

I think (hope) Andy and I were addressing your question from different
angles (no pun
intended). I was referring to the effect a 1/2" or 1/4" adaptor would have
on the
accuracy,which is none. Andy is indeed correct that the accruacy of a torque
wrench
drops as you get into the lower ranges of it's capacity. (The reason I have
both 3/8 and
1/2 drive)

--__--__--

Message: 33
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] How to Send $$ to UK
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 19:26:22 -0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Russ writes: >>>When I saw this subject line I was waiting for Frank to pop
up with his
> bank info.    "Sure, just send the check off to account # ......"<<<

doh!
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

--__--__--

Message: 34
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 19:25:40 -0500
Subject: Re: [lro] Torque wrenches and Land Rovers
From: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

OK,  J-L  , Pet pieve time.  Think about that first paragraph.  If the
torque was not the same on both ends of the extension the extension would
be turning.  If it stops turning it stops because the torque is the same
on both ends just in opposite directions.  Extensions DO absorb torque
when used with impact tools because the torque is not delivered smoothly
so the extension twists when torque is applied and untwists so the next
hit on the anvil has to twist it up again.  This is not the case with a
hand operated wrench (or it should not be) so a 3 meter extension with a
torsional force of 100 Nt/m at one end will have a have a torsional force
of 100 Nt/m in the other direction at the far end if the extension is not
turning.  I wish someone would may me for all the broken and striped
fastener I have had to fix because of this misunderstanding.  

No problem with the rest of your post

Chris Hall
On Tue, 30 Oct 2001 20:13:42 -0500 "Jean-Leon Morin"
<[email-masked]> writes:
> 
> Of course, using an adapter isnt ideal, but I don't think this would 
> be a
> problem... The real killer is when you are using an extension on the 
> socket,
> and this works like a bar of spring steel, and absorbs the energy, 
> making
> the readings useless unless you mathematically compensate for them, 
> which
> can be a problem.

--__--__--

Message: 35
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 17:02:47 -0800
To: [email-masked]
From: Chris <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Re: LRO digest, Vol 1 #139 - 43 msgs
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Why not just send a personal cheque made out in UKP? This works fine for me 
in both USA and UK (I'm in Canada)

Chris

>On Tue, 30 Oct 2001, asfco wrote:
>
> >
> > I need to send money (UKP ) to a private individual in the UK for some
> > LR Parts he found for me at the sortout.As this is private credit card
> > is not an option.
> > No banks here in the area have BKP available , even if they did I would
> > hesitate to send notes in the mail.
> >   The US post office has interbnational Money orders but you but them at
> > a  local post office add a fee of $8.50  then send the  form to St.
> > Louis where it then takes 2 weeks for them to convert USD to UKP and
> > send it out...
> > Any other ways (read Cheap) to accomplish this?

--__--__--

Message: 36
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 17:45:47 -0800
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] brake question pt 2....
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Well the new brake cylinders, front pads, and rebuilt MC are in place and I
have good pedal feel and all 4 wheels lock up when I give the pedal a hard
shove/panic stop.

I'm wondering if there is a method to understanding brake pull, ie; if the
truck pulls hard right/left or the rear wants to come around, does that
indicate where a problem might be?  I assume pulling means one brake is
locking up before the other, but which one?

Just trying to understand some of the dynamics so I can adjust the brake
pads accordingly.

Jeff

--__--__--

Message: 37
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 18:11:02 -0800
From: Paul Quin <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Parts wanted
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

There's a guy on the BC Roverlanders website e-board who is selling some
front drive shafts (and a lot of other stuff)

http://www.openroad.ca/landrover/classifieds/index.mv

He lives near Vancouver BC.

Regards,

Paul in Victoria

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Pilkington" <[email-masked]>

>
> Does anyone have the following.
> Front drive shaft for 67 Series IIa SWB complete.
> Or
> The little clamp that goes on the sliding rear window of a safari hardtop
where
> it hooks over the top rail and then bolts right through the glass.  I need
2.
> Thanks.
> Mark Pilkington

--__--__--

Message: 38
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] How to Send $$ to UK
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 19:25:03 -0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Steve writes: >>>This is how I will handle the transaction  makes sense..BTW
How are you
> feeling hope all is well with you<<<

I'm fine, thanks for asking. However as today is 12 months to the day since
my last bit of bother both Marjorie and I have admitted to feeling a bit
strange...
there are those, of course, who will say that I am more than a bit
strange...

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

--__--__--

Message: 39
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 00:31:11 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] brake question pt 2....
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Wed, 31 Oct 2001, Jeff Bieler wrote:

> 
> I'm wondering if there is a method to understanding brake pull, ie; if the
> truck pulls hard right/left or the rear wants to come around, does that
> indicate where a problem might be?  I assume pulling means one brake is
> locking up before the other, but which one?

if it's pulling right, the right side brakes are working better, or engaging
first.  The left side is thus moving faster, so it forces the vehicle to
turn right.  If it's constantly, for the whole ofthe braking, pulling,
suspect oil on the shoes, or a stuck wheel cylinder, or a restrictive flex
hose.  IF it only pulls wehn you stgart tor brake, and then goes straight,
it's liely a misadjusted wheel, or a sticky wheel cylinder.

> 
> Just trying to understand some of the dynamics so I can adjust the brake
> pads accordingly.

Shoes.  Series rovers have shoes.  Pads go on theose new-fanbgled disk
brakes.

--__--__--

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