Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #139 - 43 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 03:06:36 -0500 (EST)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Stromberg BXOV-1 (apsilon)
   2. Cold galvanising exhaust (Andy Woodward)
   3. Re: Brakes! (Andy Woodward)
   4. Re: Using a hilift on a series (Andy Woodward)
   5. Re: Cold galvanising exhaust (richer alan)
   6. Re: Cold galvanising exhaust (Paul Oxley)
   7. RE: Cold galvanising exhaust (Easton Trevor A)
   8. Torque wrenches and Land Rovers (Stude, Herman)
   9. Re: Torque wrenches and Land Rovers (richer alan)
  10. Disco water leaks (interior) (Mike Cavender)
  11. Re: Torque wrenches and Land Rovers (Tom Rowe)
  12. Re: Cold galvanising exhaust (Hope Peter)
  13. Re: Cold galvanising exhaust (Hope Peter)
  14. Re: Torque wrenches and Land Rovers (Tom Rowe)
  15. More ideas - Cold galvanising exhaust (David and Cindi Walker)
  16. Re: Hilift jack handle retainers (Hope Peter)
  17. Re: Torque wrenches and Land Rovers (richer alan)
  18. Re: More ideas - Cold galvanising exhaust (Martin Rothman)
  19. Re: Disco water leaks (interior) (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  20. How to Send $$ to UK (asfco)
  21. I don't need another fire (Chris Schramm)
  22. Re: I don't need another fire ([email-masked])
  23. RE: I don't need another fire (Easton Trevor A)
  24. RE: How to Send $$ to UK (Tackley, John)
  25. RE: How to Send $$ to UK (Easton Trevor A)
  26. Re: How to Send $$ to UK (David Scheidt)
  27. Re: I don't need another fire (David Scheidt)
  28. Re: Hilift jack handle retainers (Jean-Leon Morin)
  29. Re: I don't need another fire ([email-masked])
  30. Travellers checks, was how to send... (Bill Adams)
  31. Re: I don't need another fire (David Scheidt)
  32. Re: How to Send $$ to UK (Frank Elson)
  33. Re: John Cranfield (Larry Smith)
  34. RE: Heater Redux (Vel Natarajan)
  35. Re: More ideas - Cold galvanising exhaust ([email-masked])
  36. RE: Torque wrenches and Land Rovers (Vel Natarajan)
  37. Re: How to Send $$ to UK (asfco)
  38. Re: Torque wrenches and Land Rovers (Jean-Leon Morin)
  39. Re: How to Send $$ to UK (russell wilson)
  40. Re: I don't need another fire (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  41. Unsubscribe - how - subscribed too long ago (David Cockey)
  42. Re: Cold galvanising exhaust (Tim Czajka)
  43. Re: Spring over swap for a Series (Tim Czajka)

--__--__--

Message: 1
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Stromberg BXOV-1
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 20:14:09 +1100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> http://www.wmspear.com/Bantam/BXOV1.html
>
Thanks to all those who replied. Looks like we have a match. As I'm in
Australia I'm not surprised to find it's a model that was used on Holdens.
It also means rebuild kits and parts should be easy to find.

Thanks again,
Matt.

--__--__--

Message: 2
From: "Andy Woodward" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 10:15:33 -0000
Subject: [lro] Cold galvanising exhaust
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I assume that cold galvanising sprays or paints are useless on 
exhausts? This is a sufficiently stupid question that I've never seen 
it explicitly mentioned......

--__--__--

Message: 3
From: "Andy Woodward" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 10:43:37 -0000
Subject: Re: [lro] Brakes!
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> > It just takes longer.  A hell of a lot longer!  <insert Norwegian
> > swear words here>
> 
> What does that sound like?

English swear words pronounced backwards.....

--__--__--

Message: 4
From: "Andy Woodward" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 11:02:40 -0000
Subject: Re: [lro] Using a hilift on a series 
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> > First get a 2 or 3 ton hydraulic bottle jack.  This is the basic
> > jack,
> handy
> > and easy to use on reasonable ground.

> I've never been a fan of the bottle jack. I've always thought that
> they are too unstable if the car needs to be lifted a lot. Then again
> I've really only worked on smaller cars where the angle quickly
> increases as they're raised. Maybe they work better on larger
> vehicles. I'll take a look.

I've always preferred scissor jacks. More versatile, simple, 
cheaper. But for stuff over 2 tins you need a bottle jack.

I use a scissor jack on the 90 for whell changing. Quick and simple.

--__--__--

Message: 5
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 03:11:02 -0800 (PST)
From: richer alan <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Cold galvanising exhaust
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Yup - thwe stuff isn't rated for more than 400F or so
- if you want the exact figure I can get it off the
cans at home tonight.

Clings like grim death everywhere else, though.....

          ajr

> I assume that cold galvanising sprays or paints are
> useless on 
> exhausts? 

=====
Please ignore the following advertising.....
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http://personals.yahoo.com

--__--__--

Message: 6
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 13:42:28 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
Organization: AfricanAdrenalin.com
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Cold galvanising exhaust
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Andy Woodward wrote:
 
> I assume that cold galvanising sprays or paints are useless on
> exhausts? This is a sufficiently stupid question that I've never seen
> it explicitly mentioned......

Zinc rich spray is a marketing gimmic, common or garden mirror chrome
aluminium works just as well, which is to say it won't last on an
exhaust :-{(} Sorry.

Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

--__--__--

Message: 7
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Cold galvanising exhaust
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 07:45:10 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

There are sprays specifically for exhausts. The thing is to ensure the
surface is clean and free of both rust and oil before painting.
I sandblasted Miss G's manifold then immediately sprayed and baked using
Mastercraft Manifold Paint. It's still there after more than 5 years. Don't
think it would work on pipes though (The oven's not big enough :-))

-----Original Message-----
From: Andy Woodward [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2001 5:16 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Cold galvanising exhaust

I assume that cold galvanising sprays or paints are useless on 
exhausts? This is a sufficiently stupid question that I've never seen 
it explicitly mentioned......
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 8
From: "Stude, Herman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 08:14:13 -0600
Subject: [lro] Torque wrenches and Land Rovers
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Greetings All:

My rear pinion seal is leaking too much, and I have to do something about
it.  I have read the Green Bible and the procedure seems fairly straight
forward.  Pry the old one out, clean everything up and use a hub nut socket
to drift the new seal in.  The book says to set the castle nut 70-120 lbs,
so I'm using this procedure to finally justify a the purchase of a torque
wrench.

So, if you are interested in the long haul what features are good?  Snap-On
has a neat one where you can use different heads like 1/2", or 3/8"
ratcheting, nonratcheting, etc.  Is click better than a wand for
idiotproofness?

Thanks to all.

Herman
1973 SIII 88
Topless in Texas

--__--__--

Message: 9
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 06:25:49 -0800 (PST)
From: richer alan <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Torque wrenches and Land Rovers
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Considering my torque wrenches are many years old I
might not be the best choice to answer, but what the
hey.....

Personally, I like a ratcheting torque wrench with a
click indicator. Considering the torque of some of the
fasteners and the amount of beef sometimes necessary
to get them there it's often hard to watch the
indicator on a bar-type wrench and yank on it at the
same time.

This way you listen for either the click of the wrench
or the crack of a broken fastener....8)

Ratcheting is simply handy - I dont like presetting
fasteners with a ratchet then going to the torque
qrench because of the possibility of overtorquing
fasteners inadvertently. The ratchet gives you the
ability to do the job with one tool and w/o having to
reset the tool multiple times on the fastener to do
it.

Snap-On? Why bother? It's not like you're going to use
it every day 8 hours a day. Just don't buy a Harbor
Freight special.

The one I have is a Williams - ancient and venerable
bar type with the click setup built into the bar. Very
nice and a good hand feel. Also likely a half-century
old....8)

          ajr

=====
Please ignore the following advertising.....
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com

--__--__--

Message: 10
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 07:37:39 -0800
To: [email-masked]
From: Mike Cavender <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Disco water leaks (interior)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hmmm

The rain has started up here in Oregon.. and my Rover, a 96 SD,  is leaking
like a sieve... Didn't mind it with my old 2a.. just leaked out again.. but
the water doesn't seem to leak out of the Disco as well!!

Not sure where it's coming from.. but it's leaking into the rear cargo
boxes under each rear side window, and streaming out of each rear speaker
enclosure.. so it could be the alpine windows, the main rear windows, and
perhaps even the cargo door.. (or a combination of the above).. any history
of leaking you guys are familiar with before I start the old hose and drip
search ???

mike 

--__--__--

Message: 11
From: "Tom Rowe" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 10:06:55 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: [lro] Torque wrenches and Land Rovers
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Tue, 30 Oct 2001 06:25:49 -0800 (PST), richer alan wrote:

>Considering my torque wrenches are many years old I
>might not be the best choice to answer, but what the
>hey.....

Since when has that ever stopped you Alan?

Or me, for that matter ;-)

--__--__--

Message: 12
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Cold galvanising exhaust
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 08:11:08 -0800
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I used hi temp bbq grill paint and so far so good.  Did the gmc exhaust 4
years ago and still only the lightest of surface rust.
Pete
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Woodward" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2001 02:15
Subject: [lro] Cold galvanising exhaust

>
> I assume that cold galvanising sprays or paints are useless on
> exhausts? This is a sufficiently stupid question that I've never seen
> it explicitly mentioned......
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 13
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Cold galvanising exhaust
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 08:12:38 -0800
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Don't
> think it would work on pipes though (The oven's not big enough :-))
> 
Time to find a pizza parlor thats going out of bussiness.
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 14
From: "Tom Rowe" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 10:14:03 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: [lro] Torque wrenches and Land Rovers
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Tue, 30 Oct 2001 08:14:13 -0600, Stude, Herman wrote:

Snip
>So, if you are interested in the long haul what features are good?  Snap-On
>has a neat one where you can use different heads like 1/2", or 3/8"
>ratcheting, nonratcheting, etc.  Is click better than a wand for
>idiotproofness?

Both of mine (a 1/2" and a 3/8") are Craftsman ratcheting click type. They've served my 
needs for the last 25 or 30 years. (I had one stolen and replaced it with the same). 
Craftsman claims +-3% accuracy I believe, which is close enough for a L/R IMO.
I'd only buy a Snap-on if I needed one that had a very low range, on the order of 
inch-lbs, or really high, like 250+ foot pounds. So far I haven't needed such.
Cheers

--__--__--

Message: 15
From: "David and Cindi Walker" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 08:18:36 -0800
Subject: [lro] More ideas - Cold galvanising exhaust
Reply-To: [email-masked]

You could also just get it Zinc or Aluminum flame sprayed! There is a place
in Seattle that does it. Lasts near forever (on saltless roads) and looks
great silver or gray.

POR makes some high temperature coatings.

Cheers,

David

[email-masked]
end of message

--__--__--

Message: 16
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Hilift jack handle retainers
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 08:34:42 -0800
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> I rivet a short length of 25mm (1") nylon strap to the handle, and put a
> balliistic nylon quick release clip on it.
Thanks Paul.  ANother great idea.  We call em fastex clips in the Army and I
have a bunch of em.  It will either be the buckle or velcro....maybe both.
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 17
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 08:38:42 -0800 (PST)
From: richer alan <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Torque wrenches and Land Rovers
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

--- Tom Rowe <[email-masked]> wrote:

> 
> Since when has that ever stopped you Alan?
> 
> Or me, for that matter ;-)

To which I answer..

PHHHHHHHTTTTTTTTTTTT!

8*)

    ajOpinions - I got a ton of 'em....."r

=====
Please ignore the following advertising.....
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com

--__--__--

Message: 18
From: "Martin Rothman" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] More ideas - Cold galvanising exhaust
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 13:22:09 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Another option is to have your manifold and header done with a ceramic 
finish.  Same general process as powder coating, but the final finish is 
rock hard, will handle very high temps and won't crack.

I have seen a number of hot rod and motorcycle exhausts done this way.  
Verrry nice.

Martin Rothman

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 19
Subject: Re: [lro] Disco water leaks (interior)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 01 10:44:22 -0800
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Hmmm
>
>The rain has started up here in Oregon.. and my Rover, a 96 SD,  is leaking
>like a sieve... Didn't mind it with my old 2a.. just leaked out again.. but
>the water doesn't seem to leak out of the Disco as well!!

Sounds like you need to get out a drill and make some holes in the floor. 
 Another advantage of series rigs, premade drains.

Must be a large storm.  Its raining down here on Monterey bay as well.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 20
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 14:33:54 -0500
From: asfco <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] How to Send $$ to UK
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I need to send money (UKP ) to a private individual in the UK for some
LR Parts he found for me at the sortout.As this is private credit card
is not an option.
No banks here in the area have BKP available , even if they did I would
hesitate to send notes in the mail.
  The US post office has interbnational Money orders but you but them at
a  local post office add a fee of $8.50  then send the  form to St.
Louis where it then takes 2 weeks for them to convert USD to UKP and
send it out...
Any other ways (read Cheap) to accomplish this?
Thanks
Steve Bradke

--__--__--

Message: 21
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 11:48:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Schramm <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] I don't need another fire
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Is there a widely available aftermarket fuel pump for
a 2.25 Petrol?  Mine is leaking onto the crankcase
(gushing actually) and this truck has already been on
fire once this year.

thanks!
Chris

'71 IIA 88"
'99 DII
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com

--__--__--

Message: 22
From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 15:01:30 EST
Subject: Re: [lro] I don't need another fire
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 10/30/01 2:51:32 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> Is there a widely available aftermarket fuel pump for
> a 2.25 Petrol?  Mine is leaking onto the crankcase
> (gushing actually) and this truck has already been on
> fire once this year.
> 

RN sells a new version of the fuel pump which does not have a sediment bowl.  
I have been running with it for 3 years (15 K miles) without problems.  The 
standard sediment bowl style fuel pump is available from many vendors--DAP, 
AB, BP etc

Nate

--__--__--

Message: 23
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] I don't need another fire
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 15:03:39 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Buy a low pressure electric unit and blank off the crankcase flange.

-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Schramm [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2001 2:49 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] I don't need another fire

Is there a widely available aftermarket fuel pump for
a 2.25 Petrol?  Mine is leaking onto the crankcase
(gushing actually) and this truck has already been on
fire once this year.

thanks!
Chris

'71 IIA 88"
'99 DII
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 24
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] How to Send $$ to UK
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 15:18:48 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

PayPal...as in PayPal.com...check it out

-----Original Message-----
From: asfco [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2001 2:34 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] How to Send $$ to UK

I need to send money (UKP ) to a private individual in the UK for some
LR Parts he found for me at the sortout.As this is private credit card
is not an option.
No banks here in the area have BKP available , even if they did I would
hesitate to send notes in the mail.
  The US post office has interbnational Money orders but you but them at
a  local post office add a fee of $8.50  then send the  form to St.
Louis where it then takes 2 weeks for them to convert USD to UKP and
send it out...
Any other ways (read Cheap) to accomplish this?
Thanks
Steve Bradke
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 25
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] How to Send $$ to UK
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 15:18:13 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

See http://www.canadapost.ca/tools/pg/manual/e07-e.asp

-----Original Message-----
From: asfco [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2001 2:34 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] How to Send $$ to UK

I need to send money (UKP ) to a private individual in the UK for some
LR Parts he found for me at the sortout.As this is private credit card
is not an option.
No banks here in the area have BKP available , even if they did I would
hesitate to send notes in the mail.
  The US post office has interbnational Money orders but you but them at
a  local post office add a fee of $8.50  then send the  form to St.
Louis where it then takes 2 weeks for them to convert USD to UKP and
send it out...
Any other ways (read Cheap) to accomplish this?
Thanks
Steve Bradke
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 26
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 15:54:18 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] How to Send $$ to UK
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Tue, 30 Oct 2001, asfco wrote:

> 
> I need to send money (UKP ) to a private individual in the UK for some
> LR Parts he found for me at the sortout.As this is private credit card
> is not an option.
> No banks here in the area have BKP available , even if they did I would
> hesitate to send notes in the mail.
>   The US post office has interbnational Money orders but you but them at
> a  local post office add a fee of $8.50  then send the  form to St.
> Louis where it then takes 2 weeks for them to convert USD to UKP and
> send it out...
> Any other ways (read Cheap) to accomplish this?

Not cheap, but fast, Western Union will do wire transfers to the UK -- it'll
cost you about $60-80 to wire US$1000 to the UK, and the exchange rates tend
to be less than stellar.  A direct wire to UKians bank might be cheaper.
Cheaper would be to get your bank to issue a check in UKP.  This is called a
"Foreign Draft" in banker-speak.  Don't expect the teller to know how to do
this, or even tath it can be done, but just about every bank can.  The UK
bank might also let him deposit a US dollar demoninated check for a fee.

David

--__--__--

Message: 27
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 15:55:21 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] I don't need another fire
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Tue, 30 Oct 2001 [email-masked] wrote:

> 
> In a message dated 10/30/01 2:51:32 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
> [email-masked] writes:
> 
> 
> > Is there a widely available aftermarket fuel pump for
> > a 2.25 Petrol?  Mine is leaking onto the crankcase
> > (gushing actually) and this truck has already been on
> > fire once this year.
> > 
> 
> RN sells a new version of the fuel pump which does not have a sediment bowl.  

It also doesn't fit the stock fuel lines.  (what the heck was Rover
thinking?) Get the non-genuine stock style.  

--__--__--

Message: 28
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Hilift jack handle retainers
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 16:31:52 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Yes, be wary of that handle...

Deirdre, my girlfriend, got hit under the chin with it when helping me
change a broken rear leaf spring at winter romp last year.

It looked very painful, judging by the look in her eyes, which were welling
up with tears at the time.

She to this day refuses to even touch the hi-lift...

J-L
----- Original Message -----
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2001 11:49 AM
Subject: Re: [lro] Hilift jack handle retainers

>
> >Remember to be extra carefull when lowering a vehicle. I once dropped the
> >handle by mistake. It had enough speed to lower out one pin and start
> >ratcheting down. When this happens, the handle will come flyign up. I got
> >hit and almost broke my hand. It hurt for several days. I think this is
> >what happened to John, except he was unlucky enough to get it in the head
> >instead of the hand. Scary stuff.
>
> Same thing happened to me, except I took it in the bridge of the nose. Why
> it didn't break my nose, I have no idea. Sure hurt like hell, and was a
> cheap lesson.
>
> Keith
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 29
From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 16:31:46 EST
Subject: Re: [lro] I don't need another fire
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 10/30/01 3:58:39 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> > RN sells a new version of the fuel pump which does not have a sediment 
> bowl.  
> 
> It also doesn't fit the stock fuel lines.  

What's that?  I've been running with 1/4 inch fuel line without problems.  
The only thing with the pump was you have to put a different plate on the 
block with metric bolts (included)--but that only added a few minutes for 
installation.

Nate

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Message: 30
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 16:34:51 -0500
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Organization: U.S. International Broadcasting Bureau
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Travellers checks, was how to send...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Just send him a check in USD. The bank will take it no problemo. Also
try American Express travellers checks. He can also deposit them without
a blink, and they clear faster; like cash if endorsed by you.
-- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

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Message: 31
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 17:18:22 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] I don't need another fire
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Tue, 30 Oct 2001 [email-masked] wrote:

> 
> In a message dated 10/30/01 3:58:39 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
> [email-masked] writes:
> 
> 
> > > RN sells a new version of the fuel pump which does not have a sediment 
> > bowl.  
> > 
> > It also doesn't fit the stock fuel lines.  
> 
> 
> What's that?  I've been running with 1/4 inch fuel line without problems.  

The hard plasticy stuff, or rubber lines?  I recall trying to put one of the
genuine pumps on a truck with hard lines, and not having things line up
correctly.

:w

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Message: 32
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] How to Send $$ to UK
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 22:33:18 -0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

David writes: >>>The UK
> bank might also let him deposit a US dollar demoninated check for a
fee.<<<

my bank charges a flat fee of 10UKP - reasonable I thought. Just send him a
cheque and add a few dollars for the fee.

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

--__--__--

Message: 33
From: "Larry Smith" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] John Cranfield
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 18:37:26 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Julie,

Any update on John??

Somewhere to send snail mail cards, etc.?

Thanks!

Larry Smith
Chester, VA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter & Julie Rosvall" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: 28 October, 2001 01:40 PM
Subject: [lro] John Cranfield

>
> My husband Peter and I are acting as a go between for information about
John
> Cranfield.  The hospital and his family have asked that we help reduce the
> number of phone calls, so please don't hesitate to email me for
information
> or with messages and I will pass them on to John.  If you wish to send
> anything via snail mail, please contact me I'll let you know within a day
> where you can send things.
>
> At last report he was stable, I am awaiting a phone call from his neice at
> this time.
>
> Julie and Peter Rosvall
> Wolfville, NS
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 34
From: "Vel Natarajan" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Heater Redux
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 17:54:57 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

If you're looking at long-term costs, you also might want to look into
insulating well to save some money on fuel.  The previous owner of my home
fully insulated the detached garage (floor to roof), and it can get pretty
toasty in there once I get things warmed up, much of it from ground
radiation.

I am thinking of going with a fully vented, outside-air version so I can
REALLY seal the garage up and live in there for the weekend.  My garage is
24x24 so 576 sq ft.  But in the end I may just save the cash and go w/ an
unvented ultra-efficient one, depending on my wife's generosity. :-)

You can try this website:
http://members.tripod.com/~Kerosene_Heaters/size.html
for some methods of sizing a heater for a space.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf
Of David G. Russell

But, what's the real cost? I'd like to compare apples with apples to figure
out which fuel is more cost effective.

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Message: 35
To: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 19:00:46 -0500
Subject: Re: [lro] More ideas - Cold galvanising exhaust
From: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Check out www.techlinecoatings.com.  click "coating products" then
"retail packaged products"then "exhaust system coatings".  The stuff 
doesn't offend me with its price and anticdotial reports have been good. 
Parts MUST be blasted before and baked after, but a IR lamp will do the
baking.

Chris hall

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Message: 36
From: "Vel Natarajan" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Torque wrenches and Land Rovers
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 18:05:25 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I have a 3/8" Craftsman, and I've just use an adapter to size up to 1/2" or
down to 1/4".   Seems a lot cheaper to do it this way...
Is there any loss of accuracy in doing this?

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf
Of Tom Rowe
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2001 9:14 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Torque wrenches and Land Rovers

On Tue, 30 Oct 2001 08:14:13 -0600, Stude, Herman wrote:

Snip
>So, if you are interested in the long haul what features are good?  Snap-On
>has a neat one where you can use different heads like 1/2", or 3/8"
>ratcheting, nonratcheting, etc.  Is click better than a wand for
>idiotproofness?

Both of mine (a 1/2" and a 3/8") are Craftsman ratcheting click type.
They've served my
needs for the last 25 or 30 years. (I had one stolen and replaced it with
the same).
Craftsman claims +-3% accuracy I believe, which is close enough for a L/R
IMO.
I'd only buy a Snap-on if I needed one that had a very low range, on the
order of
inch-lbs, or really high, like 250+ foot pounds. So far I haven't needed
such.
Cheers
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

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Message: 37
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 19:57:19 -0500
From: asfco <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] How to Send $$ to UK
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Frank Elson wrote:

> David writes: >>>The UK
> > bank might also let him deposit a US dollar demoninated check for a
> fee.<<<
>
> my bank charges a flat fee of 10UKP - reasonable I thought. Just send him a
> cheque and add a few dollars for the fee.
>
> Best Cheers
>
> Frank
>

Frank;

  This is how I will handle the transaction  makes sense..BTW How are you
feeling hope all is well with you
Rgds
Steve Bradke '68 lla 88

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Message: 38
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Torque wrenches and Land Rovers
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 20:13:42 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Of course, using an adapter isnt ideal, but I don't think this would be a
problem... The real killer is when you are using an extension on the socket,
and this works like a bar of spring steel, and absorbs the energy, making
the readings useless unless you mathematically compensate for them, which
can be a problem.

In fact, when I am stuck having to use an extension with a torque wrench, I
usually use 3/4" sockets and extensions, and I "go down" right at the torque
wrench to 1/2, or even 3/8. My 3/4" tools have a massive X section, so this
limits the "give".

One thing that is often overlooked is most torque specs call for lightly
oiled, clean threads. Having some goopy mess on the bolts will affect the
torque specs greatly. One of my old tech teachers would spend hours cleaning
bolts, and would end up with spotless everything - Brass wire brush, varsol,
clean varsol, boiling water, repeat last two steps a few times.

He used to say, if you wouldn't stir your coffee with it, it shouldn't go in
an engine. I have tried to adhere to this logic ever since.

J-L

______________________________________

Jean-Lion Morin
Ottawa, Ont.
Alcohol & calculus don't mix. Don't drink & derive!

----- Original Message -----
From: Vel Natarajan <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2001 7:05 PM
Subject: RE: [lro] Torque wrenches and Land Rovers

>
> I have a 3/8" Craftsman, and I've just use an adapter to size up to 1/2"
or
> down to 1/4".   Seems a lot cheaper to do it this way...
> Is there any loss of accuracy in doing this?

--__--__--

Message: 39
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 17:03:20 -0800
From: "russell wilson" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] How to Send $$ to UK
Reply-To: [email-masked]

When I saw this subject line I was waiting for Frank to pop up with his 
bank info.    "Sure, just send the check off to account # ......"
On Tuesday, October 30, 2001, at 04:57 PM, asfco wrote:

>
> Frank Elson wrote:
>
>> David writes: >>>The UK
>>> bank might also let him deposit a US dollar demoninated check for a
>> fee.<<<
>>
>> my bank charges a flat fee of 10UKP - reasonable I thought. Just send 
>> him a
>> cheque and add a few dollars for the fee.
>>
>> Best Cheers
>>
>> Frank
>>
>
> Frank;
>
>   This is how I will handle the transaction  makes sense..BTW How are 
> you
> feeling hope all is well with you
> Rgds
> Steve Bradke '68 lla 88
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
>

Russ Wilson

--__--__--

Message: 40
Subject: Re: [lro] I don't need another fire
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 01 18:01:56 -0800
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> > RN sells a new version of the fuel pump which does not have a sediment 
>> bowl.  
>> It also doesn't fit the stock fuel lines.  

That is because the are commited to selling genuine parts and Rover no 
longer supplies the original style since AC stopped manufacturing it.

British Pacific carrys a copy that is identical except for the AC label.  
I had one on my 2-1/4 engine.  Fits the original fuel lines just fine.  
The sediment bowl seal & screen fits the new pump as well as the genuine 
Rover rebuild kits.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

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Message: 41
From: "David Cockey" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 21:56:31 -0500
Subject: [lro] Unsubscribe - how - subscribed too long ago
Reply-To: [email-masked]

How or where do I find my magic password so I can unsubscribe. I subscribed
to this list over a year ago when it was running under Majordomo. So
somewhere I was assigned a password. Help! Please respond directly to my
e-mail.

Thanks,
David Cockey

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Message: 42
From: "Tim Czajka" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 22:39:18 -0700
Subject: [lro] Re: Cold galvanising exhaust
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Andy Woodward wrote:
>I assume that cold galvanising sprays or paints are useless on exhausts?
>
What part of the exhaust?  My spray can of Krylon Rust
Tough Galvinizing Primer states that it can be used on
mufflers.  My other can of Prime Galvinizing Coating also
states it can be used on mufflers as well as exhaust stacks
and manifolds.  Although doesn't say what kind of manifold.
I will spray some on my exhaust manifold tommorow and see
if it burns off.

Tim Czajka
1972 Series III 88

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 43
From: "Tim Czajka" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 22:57:25 -0700
Subject: [lro] Re: Spring over swap for a Series
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Peter Ogilvie wrote:
>Doubt that the fore and aft shock mounting is a cure all for axle hop as it 
>has not been universally adopted or even used on a majority of trucks.
>
Well, I didn't say that fore and aft shock mounting was
a "cure all" for axle hop.  I said that GM found it helped
reduce the problem.  I just did a quick search for staggered
shocks on a few GM historical web sites and found the
following:

  "To correct the wheel-hop problems of the 1967 models,
  the 1968 Camaro featured staggered rear shock absorbers.
  Multi-leaf springs were added to some V-8 models."

  "The 1967 model was the only first generation Camaro to
  have both rear shocks mounted forward of the rear axle.
  Later years changed to a staggered arrangement to counter
  wheel hop."

  "Rear suspension used leaf springs instead of coil springs.
  Rear shocks were now staggered to reduce wheel hop. C/K 20 &
  C/K 30 models had an optional Eaton locking rear differential."

Why do staggered shocks help with rear axle hop?  Beats me.
Many shocks have different resistance in compression and
extension.  My guess is that staggered shocks allow one shock
to act in compression regardless if the axle is twisting
forward of backward.

Tim Czajka
1972 Series III 88

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

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