Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #135 - 24 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 03:02:02 -0500 (EST)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Using a hilift on a series (apsilon)
   2. ID carb? (apsilon)
   3. Re: Using a hilift on a series (d.h.lowe)
   4. Re: Using a hilift on a series (Kirk Hillman)
   5. Re: Using a hilift on a series (richer alan)
   6. Re: Using a hilift on a series (Bill Fishel)
   7. Brakes! (Harald Hansen)
   8. Re: Brakes! (Luca Ingianni)
   9. Re: Using a hilift on a series (Jeremy)
  10. Re: Brakes! ([email-masked])
  11. Email server...no rover content (Hope Peter)
  12. Re: Using a hilift on a series (Hope Peter)
  13. Re: ID carb? (Paul Quin)
  14. Re: Brakes! (Harald Hansen)
  15. Wing support (Kirk Hillman)
  16. Re: Using a hilift on a series (N Forbes)
  17. Re: Using a hilift on a series (N Forbes)
  18. Re: Using a hilift on a series (Jim Hall)
  19. Re: Electric Series Article ([email-masked])
  20. Re: Interstate motor speedway ([email-masked])
  21. stuff still here (incl project trucks!) ([email-masked])
  22. Re: Using a hilift on a series (Mark  Love)
  23. Re: ID carb? (apsilon)
  24. Re: Using a hilift on a series (apsilon)

--__--__--

Message: 1
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Using a hilift on a series
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 17:45:05 +1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> A comparison: http://www.expeditionexchange.com/jackall/
> The Jackmate: http://www.expeditionexchange.com/jackmate/ (this is where I
> bought mine)

Thanks Keith. That Jack Mate does look useful, I'll have to get one.

The Moab photos look great. Looks like it was a fun trip.

Matt.

--__--__--

Message: 2
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO List" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 19:18:02 +1000
Subject: [lro] ID carb?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi all,

Yes another question, hopefully the last for a while. I want to order a
rebuild kit for the carb on my series III and had been thinking it was a
Zenith but after comparing the drawings in the manual to the actual carb I'm
not so sure.

I'll put up some other photos tomorrow but this one may be enough to go by.
Ignore the black wire, it belongs to that cutoff and is going to be removed
along with the cutoff shortly.

http://www.apsilon.com/matt/images/lr/carb.jpg

TIA,
Matt.

--__--__--

Message: 3
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 09:21:42 -0400
From: "d.h.lowe" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Using a hilift on a series
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Also very useful for breaking the bead on a tire. Put the foot plate on the
edge of the tire at the rim and place it under the front bumper.
Dave

Paul Oxley wrote:

> Jim Hall wrote:
> > They are too
> > unstable to use for tire changing or working on the vehicle unless it is
> > used to jack the car up, and it is then put on jack stands.
>
> Agreed.
>
> Regards
>
> Paul Oxley
> AfricanAdrenalin.com
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 4
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Using a hilift on a series
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 08:19:04 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Oh my goodness!  Here I was thinking that my JackAll was somehow inferior to
the highly touted Hi-Lift.  I was developing a complex about the issue.  I
even considered getting a Hi-Lift to replace my JackAll.  Well, nix on that
idea!  The only thing I wish I had rather than the unit I currently have is
the 60" version.  It's surprising how many times that extra foot of bar is
all that's needed.  I'll keep my JackAll thank you....

Kirk

"Will have a Jackmate next year though."

--__--__--

Message: 5
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 07:00:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: richer alan <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Using a hilift on a series
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

That trick works well with a hydraulic, too. Never
managed it with a scissors jack - the thrust point on
most of them seems to be too far off-center of the
baseplate edge (they flop).

Personally for changing tyres on a Seris I like a
hydraulic jack - small, simple to work with, and you
can jack right under the axle and avoid dealing with
the suspension.

Cheap. too.....8)

              ajr

--- "d.h.lowe" <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> Also very useful for breaking the bead on a tire.
> Put the foot plate on the
> edge of the tire at the rim and place it under the
> front bumper.
> Dave
> 

=====
Please ignore the following advertising.....
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com

--__--__--

Message: 6
From: "Bill Fishel" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Using a hilift on a series
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 10:15:10 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I did this to get out of a rut that had me cross axled.
Took home a souvenir gouge down the rear safari door.
Bill Fishel

----------
> From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: [lro] Using a hilift on a series
> Date: Saturday, October 27, 2001 2:40 AM
> 
> 
> Keith Tanner wrote:
> 
> > The Irish triallers I met this weekend like to lift a truck up on the jack
> > and then tip it sideways off an obstacle. Yikes.
> 
> No 'yikes' about it, that's one of its biggest advantages.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Paul ("Timber!!!!") Oxley
> AfricanAdrenalin.com
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 7
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 16:38:16 +0200
To: [email-masked]
From: Harald Hansen <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Brakes!
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Yes, it's possible to fit a right hand wheel cylinder to the left wheel.
It just takes longer.  A hell of a lot longer!  <insert Norwegian swear
words here>

Ah, well, back to the parts supplier for the correct wheel cylinder...

Harald
(frustrated)

-- 
Harald Hansen                           #========#       1975 and 1976
SW engineer, strategy gamer, LR owner   |___|__|__\___     Land Rover
E-mail: harald74@online[DOT]no          |  _|  |   |_ |} Series III 109" 
        harald.hansen@kongsberg[DOT]com ""(_)""""""(_)"   Station Wagons

--__--__--

Message: 8
From: Luca Ingianni <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Brakes!
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 16:58:19 +0200
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Am Saturday 27 October 2001 16:38 schrieb Harald Hansen:

> It just takes longer.  A hell of a lot longer!  <insert Norwegian swear
> words here>

What does that sound like?

> Harald
> (frustrated)

have fun,
	Luca (still puzzled about his tyres)
-- 
There are very few personal problems that cannot be solved through a
suitable application of high explosives.

--__--__--

Message: 9
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 09:00:42 -0600
From: Jeremy <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Using a hilift on a series
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Things which I love about the clerance on my truck (yeah, disco, but I want
a series, I'll post to LRO anyways).  Defiantely nice being able to work a
bit under the car without jacking it.

-j
-- 
Jeremy <heffner at darkness dot net>
1994 Disco NAS "RTFM"

apsilon enlightened recipients with the following on 27Oct2001:
> 
> >  sort of like asking if you should run oil or grease in  the swivel balls
> ;)
> 
> So Russ, which should I use, grease or oil ;)
> 
> I haven't found a way to get a car off the ground that I didn't consider a
> bit tippy other than a 4 post. For changing wheels with the proper
> precautions I think it'll be fine. I certainly won't be under any car at all
> using any type of jack.
> 
> Thanks,
> Matt.

--__--__--

Message: 10
From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 11:59:08 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] Brakes!
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 10/27/2001 10:41:06 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

<< Yes, it's possible to fit a right hand wheel cylinder to the left wheel.
 It just takes longer.  >>

I had this issue on the front wheels.  The flex line had enough length to 
make it work, but I said similar words--only not in Norwegian.

Nate

--__--__--

Message: 11
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Email server...no rover content
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 09:10:51 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

The only Rover content here is the fact that I use email to recieve the list
and I am aloharovers.com
So hit your delete button now.

For those still around, a number of people on the list obviously have tons
of IT experiance.
Now that we have settled into the house in Silverdale, WA I am getting a
sDSL line installed.  I am tired of having to pay someone to host my web
sites, and I am going to continue working for the same company as a
tele-comuter so having the web sever here works for both work and play.
I develop on the various forms of Windows for work and have a full suite of
NT4 (Server, SQL7, IIS4, Exchange 5.5, etc) on hand

Becasue of security concerns I have been looking at running Apache as my web
server instead of IIS4.  Any recomendations for a mail server that runs on
NT?  I do not know enough about exchange to ensure that it's secure.

Because of work I need to have an NT box to develop on.
Other then doing some simple FTP and TELNET stuff back at ODU I have no
experiance with Unix.  Building a UNIX system would involve drawing funds
from the Rover account (oh content :-)  Yes software is free, but I would
need to get another box to run it on.  Just for argument, I assume a UNIX
web/mail server would do well on an Intell 500Mhz boz with 256k mem?  What
else would I need for software?

To soothe those only looking for content in these listings, please respond
to me directly @ [email-masked]

Thanks a bunch
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 12
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Using a hilift on a series
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 09:37:36 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

As to the tippiness issue:
On my hi-lift the bottom foot is held in place with a cotter pin, so it's
quickly removeable.  The lifting bar will fit inside of a 2x3 rectangular
tube.  So take a 8" pice of tube and weld it onto a large flat plate about
12x12x1/4.  Reenforce with some triangle gussets.  Some small wooden wedges
can be inserted alongside the jack bar to tighten things up a bit.  You can
also drill a couple of holes in the plate large enough to drive a couple of
log home spikes through.  Works to prevent the base plate from kicking out
on muddy ground.  With a bigger hammer, you can also drive the spikes
through asphalt.  And if you had the right type of nails or a charge driver,
even into concrete.

When working on the Rover I ALWAYS use jack stands and a hydraulic jack
under the axle.  But I have goten in a pretty deep hole where I needed to
lift the whole back end of the rover up to fit logs under the tires.

Pete

--__--__--

Message: 13
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 09:40:13 -0700
From: Paul Quin <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] ID carb?
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

It's been years since I've seen one, but it does look a bit like a
Rochester...

Paul in Victoria.

----- Original Message -----
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>

>
> Hi all,
>
> Yes another question, hopefully the last for a while. I want to order a
> rebuild kit for the carb on my series III and had been thinking it was a
> Zenith but after comparing the drawings in the manual to the actual carb
I'm
> not so sure.
>
> I'll put up some other photos tomorrow but this one may be enough to go
by.
> Ignore the black wire, it belongs to that cutoff and is going to be
removed
> along with the cutoff shortly.
>
> http://www.apsilon.com/matt/images/lr/carb.jpg

--__--__--

Message: 14
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 18:40:25 +0200
To: [email-masked]
From: Harald Hansen <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Brakes!
Reply-To: [email-masked]

At 16:58 27.10.01 +0200, you wrote:
>
>Am Saturday 27 October 2001 16:38 schrieb Harald Hansen:
>
>> It just takes longer.  A hell of a lot longer!  <insert Norwegian swear
>> words here>
>
>What does that sound like?

Quite guttural, I guess.

I'll give you one word to improve your vocabulary: 'helvete'.  Put pressure
on the first syllable.  The first 'e' is pronounced as the 'a' in 'hand'.
The other two are pronounced as the 'e' in 'set'.  The 'l' is 'narrow', not
like the normal English 'l'.  Use as required.

My cool link of the day:
http://www.howstuffworks.com/diesel-locomotive.html

Regards,
Harald (a little less frustrated now)

-- 
Harald Hansen                           #========#       1975 and 1976
SW engineer, strategy gamer, LR owner   |___|__|__\___     Land Rover
E-mail: harald74@online[DOT]no          |  _|  |   |_ |} Series III 109" 
        harald.hansen@kongsberg[DOT]com ""(_)""""""(_)"   Station Wagons

--__--__--

Message: 15
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 14:04:48 -0600
Subject: [lro] Wing support
Reply-To: [email-masked]

What exactly supports the wings in a LR?  I have seen many pictures of
people climbing all over their wings, aluminum checker plate panels is good
evidence of this.  I have been known to do the 'monkey' thing a number of
times while stuck in the gooey stuff, but mine flex a lot more than I would
like.  Is there supposed to be a support strap at the edges of the wheel
arch as in the rear?  I need to buy new fender skins for the front now
because mine have cracked as a result of the flexing.

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 16
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Using a hilift on a series
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 20:46:18 +0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I would say the Jack-All is superior, if only because it's Canadian and has 
a Land Rover Stage One on the box. The high-lift actually looks cooler but 
the Jack-All is NATO approved if that means anything. Basically, buy which 
ever one is easier to find and cheaper.

As for jacking things up and tipping them over, this technique works 
incredibly well. I've not only used it to get Rovers out of ruts etc but 
have moved a steel cradle for a 50 foot sailboat about 40 feet across a 
boatyard. Cool!

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
--author unknown

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 17
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Using a hilift on a series
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 21:05:19 +0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

No Paul, they have the holes side to side just like the hilift.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
--author unknown

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 18
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 16:17:06 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Using a hilift on a series
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Once I had to jack the front of my rover up and get pulled while still
jacked up to get out of a mud hole with very steep and tall exit. I also
had to use it to get in as I got high centered as soon as the front 
tires dropped in.

N Forbes wrote:

> As for jacking things up and tipping them over, this technique works
> incredibly well. I've not only used it to get Rovers out of ruts etc but
> have moved a steel cradle for a 50 foot sailboat about 40 feet across a
> boatyard. Cool!

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 19
From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 20:52:16 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] Electric Series Article
To: [email-masked]
CC: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Fri, 26 Oct 2001 Keith Tanner posted: 
<<Series trucks like Moab. >>

That is where the Solihull Society is planning to hold next year's National 
Land Rover Rally.  (Dates not yet fixed).  Y'all come, now hear?

Paul Donohue
1965 Land Rover 109
Denver Colorado

--__--__--

Message: 20
From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 20:56:18 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] Interstate motor speedway
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Fri, 26 Oct 2001, Scott Wickham" <[email-masked]> posted:

<<  Mitch, coming back this side of the Mississippi, great!  >>

Please regard this only as a temporary loan.

Also be sure to stock up on cheap yellow mustard.

Paul Donohue
1965 Land Rover 109
Denver Colorado

--__--__--

Message: 21
From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 21:24:54 EDT
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] stuff still here (incl project trucks!)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

ive still got a ton of stuff that needs to be gone, and to top it off, i just 
bought a welder and the parental element is very pissed off that i am buying 
more crap before getting rid of some, so here you go! all prices are 
negotiable!

complete axle assys, unknown condition, swivels vary- $200 for rear, $225 for 
fronts, one front has unknown condition Warn hubs

roofs, roofs, roofs!  tons of standard roof tops available, $100 each, all 
need paint.  roof sides also available, all in good shape, standard solid 
window ones need new seals, all need paint, $150/pair, get your new hard top 
for winter cheap while you can!

trashed bulkheads- $75 each, all need severe rust repair

plus tons of other small stuff!

now for the project vehicles:

1963 88" hard top with safari panel, no vents- bulkhead junk, wings junk, 
basically good for the drivetrain and misc parts.  does not include breakfast 
panel  if you buy this, i will include some other crap for free.  $500, no 
title

1971 88" deluxe SW- same condition as above, but with no safari panel.  no 
wings.  $450 no title

stuff is located in southborough, MA 01772

thanks,
adam

--__--__--

Message: 22
From: "Mark  Love" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Using a hilift on a series
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 22:25:00 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

The correct term is "casting"  cheers,   Mark Love

--__--__--

Message: 23
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] ID carb?
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 16:04:49 +1100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I've just put up some more pics on my page at
http://www.apsilon.com/matt/lr/index.htm

You'll find pics of the carb at the bottom. I found some raised lettering on
it in the better light this morning so I now know it's a Stromberg but I
still need to know the model so I can get the correct rebuild kit. I'd
greatly appreciate it if anyone can identify it or point me to a source that
could identify it.

Alternatively is this carb any better than the stock Zenith that should be
there? I can get a reconditioned one of those for US$180.

Thanks,
Matt.

--__--__--

Message: 24
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO List" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Using a hilift on a series 
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 16:08:23 +1100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> First get a 2 or 3 ton hydraulic bottle jack.  This is the basic jack,
handy
> and easy to use on reasonable ground.
> Make a base for it from a piece of thick plywood about 18 inches square.
Or
> better yet laminate 2 to give you a solid base for sand and loose stuff.
> Fancy bases have a recess chisled in the center to locate the jack.
>
> The Hi-Lift needs to be your second jack.

I've never been a fan of the bottle jack. I've always thought that they are
too unstable if the car needs to be lifted a lot. Then again I've really
only worked on smaller cars where the angle quickly increases as they're
raised. Maybe they work better on larger vehicles. I'll take a look.

Matt.

--__--__--

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End of LRO Digest