Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #131 - 31 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 03:01:18 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. SV: [lro] I ask again for info from the North American Land
       Rover Trek... (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mattias_Bostr=F6m?=)
   2. 16g tank in an 88 (apsilon)
   3. '69 Le Sabre Convertible for sale... (Bill Adams)
   4. Re: Ooops > seat repair (Rob MacCormick)
   5. Re: opinions requested (Rob MacCormick)
   6. Re: opinions requested (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
   7. Re: My "new" series III (David Scheidt)
   8. Re: Ooops > seat repair (Paul Oxley)
   9. Re: opinions requested (RON WARD)
  10. Spark plugs (A. P. (Sandy) Grice)
  11. Re: Land Rover Identity (Mark Pilkington)
  12. Re: 16g tank in an 88 (Hope Peter)
  13. Re: Leaking door seals (Lonn & Rhonda)
  14. another sighting in FL (Tackley, John)
  15. Re: Interstate Motor Speedway ((owned by harderr))
  16. Re: Interstate Motor Speedway ((owned by harderr))
  17. Re: SV: [lro] I ask again for info from the North American Land
       Rover Trek... (Jim Hall)
  18. Re: Interstate Motor Speedway (Jim Hall)
  19. Re: Spring over swap for a Series (Tim Czajka)
  20. Re: Spring over swap for a Series (Tim Czajka)
  21. Electric Series Article (Tim Czajka)
  22. Re: Spring over swap for a Series (Tim Czajka)
  23. Zenith (William L Leacock)
  24. Brake drums (William L Leacock)
  25. Re: Land Rover Identity (Rich & Lori Williams)
  26. Re: LROI magazine (Peter Ogilvie)
  27. Re: My "new" series III (Peter Ogilvie)
  28. Re: Weber 32/36 DGV (Peter Ogilvie)
  29. Disco A-frame schematics (Travis Garrett)

--__--__--

Message: 1
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mattias_Bostr=F6m?= <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: SV: [lro] I ask again for info from the North American Land
  Rover Trek...
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 11:15:56 +0200
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Do you have their web adress?

-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Fren: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]Fvr Jim
Hall
Skickat: den 23 oktober 2001 04:25
Till: [email-masked]
Dmne: Re: [lro] I ask again for info from the North American Land Rover
Trek...

You would probably have to ask Land Rover North America.

Mattias Bostrvm wrote:
>
> Cheers!
>
> I would like to know if anyone have or know where I could get a video from
> the "Land Rover Trek 2000". It was an article about it in the february
issue
> of LRO this year. I would have to get it in the European standard since I
> live in Sweden. I could also have use of pictures from the same event
> especially from the test drive course.
>
> Thank you all in advance.
> The drinks would be on me for some time if I get a hold of this...
>
> Best Regards
> Mattias Bostrom
> S.L.R.K #1329
> Land Rover 90" -98 Tdi CSW
> BMW 528i Touring
> home page: http://user.tninet.se/~vwu213j
> e-mail: [email-masked]
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 2
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 19:41:37 +1000
Subject: [lro] 16g tank in an 88
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I just got confirmation from the supplier in Melbourne and they confirmed
that the 16 gallon tank I was looking at will fit an 88. Cost is AUD$425 so
about US$212 but I imagine shipping on something that big would be a lot.

Matt.

--__--__--

Message: 3
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 08:13:46 -0400
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Organization: U.S. International Broadcasting Bureau
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] '69 Le Sabre Convertible for sale...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

See RN fs bbs. Thanks.
-- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

--__--__--

Message: 4
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 08:16:52 -0400
From: Rob MacCormick <[email-masked]>
Organization: Boston College
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Ooops > seat repair
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Alex Maiolo wrote:

> > I have a smal tear (darned rivets in Carhart clothing) on a vinyl seat
> > cover.....What's a good way to repair?
>
> Dude....duct tape...
> Did you really need to ask?

No but I'm glad I asked and received your wisdom as a result!

Having performed alot of work with duct tape I've determined that it doesn't
hold up to UV very well.....And in the heat it gets really gooey and slimey and
makes a nice mess......The wallet and bow tie I made of the stuff held up well
thou.........

>
> Robert's your dad's brother.

Close but Bob is actually my Mother's Brother.

> Do them all if you think the material is weak and rotten. I wear Carharts
> and the LL Bean knock offs of Carharts and I haven't ripped any seats yet.
> Probably would have happened if you drove around in flannel jammies.

After snagging the seat I carry several pair of flannel jammies and insist all
passengers wear them.
Rob M

--__--__--

Message: 5
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 08:21:36 -0400
From: Rob MacCormick <[email-masked]>
Organization: Boston College
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] opinions requested
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Solex even recommends to add another shield between the exaust
> manifold and the carb in hot climates.
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

FWIW....Toyota landcruisers (at least the '78 I had and destroyed) had a blower
that would blow exterior air on the carb.....

--__--__--

Message: 6
Subject: Re: [lro] opinions requested
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 09:15:29 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>FWIW....Toyota landcruisers (at least the '78 I had and destroyed) had a
blower
>that would blow exterior air on the carb.....
>_
>

That's funny - I would have thought Toyotas sucked personally.....8*)

Seriously, though - seems to me a simple ram-air rig would be a good thing
in this situation. Personally, I've never had a heat problem with fuel
unless it was vapor lock because of a bad fuel pump. O course, I live in
the cool Northeast (but it isn't in the Summer!).

                        ajr

--__--__--

Message: 7
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 09:29:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Mon, 22 Oct 2001, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:

> 
> Y'know, that's odd - I agree they can be contrary, though.
> 
> 
> On the other side of the boat ride I drove the old girl from Baltimore, MD
> to Chelmsford, MA (appx 600 miles) without a hiccup.
> 
> Just lucky, I guess.

When I bought Mr. Sinclair, I flew from Chicago to LA, picked up the truck,
had lunch with the PO, and headed back to chicago.  Four days, 2300 miles
later, I'm about to get into to town, when I get a call saying I'm needed at
ork.  Arrive there instead of home, looking like I've just spent four days
and 2300 miles in IIA on the hottest week of the year.  Do some work, rush
off to catch the last Metra so I can retrieve the other car I'd left at the
airport.  Get off the expressway, sitting at the traffic light about 500
feet from the station, wehn the engine stalls.  Won't restart, of course.
Pop the hood, and the bypass radiator hose has sprun a pinhole leak.  It's
pointed up and back; the spray hits the bonnet, and drips right on to the
dizzy.  Grab a rag, wipe the dizzy, spray wd40 on it, tie the rag on the
hose, so the leak goes somewhere else.  Hop back in, fire it up, and see my
train leaving the station.

--__--__--

Message: 8
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 14:37:45 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
Organization: AfricanAdrenalin.com
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Ooops > seat repair
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Rob MacCormick wrote:
 
> Having performed alot of work with duct tape I've determined that it doesn't
> hold up to UV very well.....And in the heat it gets really gooey and slimey and
> makes a nice mess......

It will, however, help to keep you in your seat during extreme
off-roading.

Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

--__--__--

Message: 9
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 10:10:15 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] opinions requested
Reply-To: [email-masked]

A friend has a TLC FJ-60 with the little electric driven fan for the carby.  Neat-o idea.

>>> [email-masked] 10/23/01 09:15AM >>>

>FWIW....Toyota landcruisers (at least the '78 I had and destroyed) had a
blower
>that would blow exterior air on the carb.....
>_
>

That's funny - I would have thought Toyotas sucked personally.....8*)

Seriously, though - seems to me a simple ram-air rig would be a good thing
in this situation. Personally, I've never had a heat problem with fuel
unless it was vapor lock because of a bad fuel pump. O course, I live in
the cool Northeast (but it isn't in the Summer!).

                        ajr
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked] 
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 10
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 11:14:12 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: "A. P. (Sandy) Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Spark plugs
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Scott Wickham" <[email-masked]> wrote:

>>Champion RN12YC...it is the listed plug for the Disco, the Series...

>  Thought that was the UN12Y for a Series truck?

Actually, my original owner's manual simply called for N-12....not sure the
"UN-" plug is even made anymore.  The operative number is the '12' which
refers to the heat range.  The 'R' is for resistor, which will keep that
static buzz out of your radio, that is, if you can *hear* the radio above
the cacaphony.  'Y' has to do with the shape/design of the nose, 'C' is an
all-copper center electrode.

Cheers

--__--__--

Message: 11
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 08:49:44 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Land Rover Identity
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Thanks Frank,
    The VIN is 90110330A  and the British number plate is HBW 301N    It was
registered  on the 11th of Jan 1974.  But it was built in 73.  I want it to
be a 73 so it does not have to pass smog here in California.  A certificate
to show this would be perefect and any help you can offer would be greatly
appreciated.
    Also on a side note, My 67 with the V8 in it is nearing completion. To
the point where it is fully operational and I am screwing, bolting and
glueing on trim.  I was slightly concerned that the dataplate I have been
saving for it, which I thought was the one for it, is not.  The seial/VIN is
different to the one on the title. Does anyone know if I can get a blank
dataplate.  I have the VIN on the chassis leg and on the old title.
Thanks again,
Kind regards,
Mark

Frank Elson wrote:

> Mark and Trevor,
>  do you know the original British Reg number? If so I can tell you how to
> get a build certificate...
> Best Cheers
>
> Frank
>     +--+--+--+
>      I !__|  [_]|_\___
>      I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
>      "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 12
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] 16g tank in an 88
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 09:11:19 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> I just got confirmation from the supplier in Melbourne and they confirmed
> that the 16 gallon tank I was looking at will fit an 88. Cost is AUD$425
so
> about US$212 but I imagine shipping on something that big would be a lot.
>

not usually 'that' bad.  At least shipping to Hawaii never was.  Do you have
the contact info for the supplier?
Thx
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 13
From: "Lonn & Rhonda" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Cc: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Leaking door seals
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 10:25:36 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Bill, et al,

The product I used is Geocel Proflex Roof Seal. 1-800-348-7615, in
Indiana.

It is crystal clear, stops leaks, super flexible, sticks to all
materials, paintable, applies to wet surfaces, prevents rust, won't
crack or crumble, and remains flexible... according to the
manufacturer.

It works... according to me.

It can be applied from -40 to 140 degrees F, but the sealant must be
warmed when below 30 degrees.  Good stuff.

Lonn

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Fishel" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 10:57 PM
Subject: Re: [lro] Leaking door seals

>
> Thanks everybody
> I'll be ordering the seals from JC Whitless.
>
> Lonn, I'm interested in the product you were talking about for
sealing the top skin to the rain gutter.
>
> Bill Fishel
>
> ----------
> > From: Bill Fishel <[email-masked]>
> > To: [email-masked]
> > Subject: [lro] Leaking door seals
> > Date: Saturday, October 13, 2001 2:53 PM
> >
> >
> > OK
> > I know its a big joke about everything leaking on a Rover but I'm
tired of getting wet and things inside being washed against their
will.
> >
> > What are some REASONABLE things that can be done to seal the
doors? New genuine door seals or something aftermarket. I've heard D90
door seals will work if the lip on the door surround is ground off.
Worth the hassle?
> >
> > The station wagon hard top also leaks were the skin meets the rain
gutter. The water runs under the skin and drips on the dash and floor
inside. Is there any kind of sealer that can be used that would wick
in under the skin to make a good seal.
> >
> > Moving to the desert at this time is not an option.
> >
> > Bill Fishel
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 14
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 14:46:02 -0400
Subject: [lro] another sighting in FL
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Was it a list member driving a deep red RHD Series IIA Diesel in FL on
southbound I95 south of Daytona Beach on Friday afternoon, 10/19, bearing UK
plates?

Nice truck, but check your injection pump timing...either that or you need
new rings, Man!  I almost missed you due to the smoke screen! 8->

JT/ric

--__--__--

Message: 15
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 10:10:11 -0500 (CDT)
From: "(owned by harderr)" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Interstate Motor Speedway
Reply-To: [email-masked]

hank, i live in missouri -- i have taken various
routes to colorado.  here are some fragmented thoughts.

i have taken US54 across kansas but *you* would have
to work your way back north at the west end --
say thru dodge city.  this is a good, relaxing route.
you can pick up 54 at central missouri at an i70 exit.

i have taken US50 for parts, but it is hard to follow
thru parts of kansas.  (it is my understanding that highway
50 thru ill, ind is pretty reasonable -- get some confirmation
on this from someone else.)  this would
be my third choice.

if you go further north, US36 is excellent -- very
relaxing.  it goes from eastern missouri -- parallel about
50 miles north of i70 to eastern colorado where it
merges with i70.  US36 is my favorite route to colorado.
but, then, it is a northern route.  anyway,
at atwood, kansas is free camping with free hot showers.
provided by the town -- and the town's population is about
200.

i would try to avoid i70 thru missouri at least.  it is
very poorly maintained and the truckers control the pavement.
speeds of 80mph are normal and it is crowded.

good luck on your adventure.  get back if you want to
talk some more.  if you get to columbia (on i70) and want to
rest, call me at 573-442-8190 (home) or 573-882-0520
work

ray

On Sun, 21 Oct 2001, Hank Rutherford wrote:

> Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 20:06:41 -0400
> From: Hank Rutherford <[email-masked]>
> Reply-To: [email-masked]
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: [lro] Interstate Motor Speedway
>
>
> I am planning an east to west trip in a SerIIa swb, traveling from Asheville
> North Carolina to Colorado Springs, leaving the second week of November. I'd
> like to roughly follow Interstate 70 but would prefer staying off the
> Interstate Motor Speedway at least half the time, running parallel scenic
> routes. Has anyone out there got advice or experiences they could share?
>
> Hank Rutherford
> SerIIa "Gromit"
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
>

-- 
Sincerely,

Ray Harder

--__--__--

Message: 16
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 10:16:01 -0500 (CDT)
From: "(owned by harderr)" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Interstate Motor Speedway
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Mon, 22 Oct 2001, Jim Hall wrote:

i think that is dependant upon the vehicle you drive and your
attitude.  i think kansas is beautiful in a series but in the
rangie, i found myself anxious to speed across as fast as possible.
in the series, i usually have the door tops off and know i will
camp somewhere.  i stop at pony express monuments and watch
the weather.  it doesn't have to be boring.  ray from missouri...

>
> My advice is to stay on it through Kansas as there is nothing scenic in
> most of the state.
>
> Hank Rutherford wrote:
> >
> > I am planning an east to west trip in a SerIIa swb, traveling from Asheville
> > North Carolina to Colorado Springs, leaving the second week of November. I'd
> > like to roughly follow Interstate 70 but would prefer staying off the
> > Interstate Motor Speedway at least half the time, running parallel scenic
> > routes. Has anyone out there got advice or experiences they could share?
> >
> > Hank Rutherford
> > SerIIa "Gromit"
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
>
>

-- 
Sincerely,

Ray Harder

--__--__--

Message: 17
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 19:16:57 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: SV: [lro] I ask again for info from the North American Land
  Rover Trek...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

http://www.landrover.com/index_home.jsp You will have to look to see
where they have contact info.

Mattias Bostrvm wrote:
> 
> Do you have their web adress?
> 
> -----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
> Fren: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]Fvr Jim
> Hall
> Skickat: den 23 oktober 2001 04:25
> Till: [email-masked]
> Dmne: Re: [lro] I ask again for info from the North American Land Rover
> Trek...
> 
> You would probably have to ask Land Rover North America.
> 
> Mattias Bostrvm wrote:
> >
> > Cheers!
> >
> > I would like to know if anyone have or know where I could get a video from
> > the "Land Rover Trek 2000". It was an article about it in the february
> issue
> > of LRO this year. I would have to get it in the European standard since I
> > live in Sweden. I could also have use of pictures from the same event
> > especially from the test drive course.
> >
> > Thank you all in advance.
> > The drinks would be on me for some time if I get a hold of this...
> >
> > Best Regards
> > Mattias Bostrom
> > S.L.R.K #1329
> > Land Rover 90" -98 Tdi CSW
> > BMW 528i Touring
> > home page: http://user.tninet.se/~vwu213j
> > e-mail: [email-masked]
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> 
> --
> Jim Hall
> 1966 88" Elephant Chaser
> http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
> "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
> with Jim." Mitch Stockdale
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 18
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 19:39:42 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Interstate Motor Speedway
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Well, as a child, I had to endure one too many trips across Kansas. So
my attitude is that 400 miles of cornfields is not very exciting, no
matter how you go. It isn't so bad towards Kansas City, but the rest...
 I had an aunt who swore that she would never drive across Kansas again,
and she didn't.

(owned by harderr) wrote:
> 
> On Mon, 22 Oct 2001, Jim Hall wrote:
> 
> i think that is dependant upon the vehicle you drive and your
> attitude.  i think kansas is beautiful in a series but in the
> rangie, i found myself anxious to speed across as fast as possible.
> in the series, i usually have the door tops off and know i will
> camp somewhere.  i stop at pony express monuments and watch
> the weather.  it doesn't have to be boring.  ray from missouri...

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 19
From: "Tim Czajka" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 19:44:20 -0600
Subject: [lro] Re: Spring over swap for a Series
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Kirk Hillman wrote:
>Tim, Have you ever noticed that the opposing shock idea that GM employs 
>contributes to odd behaviour on washboard
>roads?  Or is it my imagination?
>
I haven't noticed a washboard problem related to the shock
placement - but then my ride time has been limited having
never owned a GM leaf spring vehicle.  Most washboard
problems I have seen involve leaf springs with rates that
are too high and shocks that are not valved properly.  So
the axle is not free to follow the undulations.  Of course
there is only so much one can do in this regard with the
high unsprung weight of live axles.

A few years ago I did take four leaves out of the rear
spring packs on my Series 88 for a test.  The ride quality
improved immensely on bumps and washboard surface control
also was enhanced.  But it also became the sag wagon when
I loaded the tail with gear.  The trick is finding the
right balance for general use.

Tim Czajka
1972 Series III 88

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 20
From: "Tim Czajka" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 19:48:33 -0600
Subject: [lro] Re: Spring over swap for a Series
Reply-To: [email-masked]

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
>Rover, for some reason has the rear wheels about two inches off centre of 
>the wheel opening.
>
Yes I noticed that.  At first I thought it was in order to
prevent the tire from hitting the rear part of the body or
something on full compression - since the tire does move
backwards a bit.  But my stock tire doesn't come close to
clipping the rear body - in fact there appears to be plenty
of room for even bigger tires.  My other 4x4s have centered
rear axles and I have not had tire contact problems.  I don't
know why Land Rover positioned the axle in this way - anyone
know?

So I guess if someone is installing a Salisbury or implementing
drive train changes, moving the rear axle back a few inches would
be a good way to add some additional rear driveshaft length.
Re-drilling the main and possibly secondary support leaves, as
you mentioned, would be the easy way to do this.

Oh if anyone is replacing their center leaf spring pins - Ace
Hardware sells bolts in various lengths that have round hex
heads.  They fit right in the existing axle pad holes and the
allen head allows easy removal if the spring pack has to be
disassembled.

Tim Czajka
1972 Series III 88

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Message: 21
From: "Tim Czajka" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 13:45:08 -0600
Subject: [lro] Electric Series Article
Reply-To: [email-masked]

For anyone interested - there is an article on an electric
powered Series in the December 2001 issue of Four Wheeler.
Written by Jim Allen on page 91.  It's that Series from
the company called Wilde EVolutions.

Tim Czajka
1972 Series III 88

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Message: 22
From: "Tim Czajka" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 13:37:35 -0600
Subject: [lro] Re: Spring over swap for a Series
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Kirk Hillman wrote:
>Tim, Have you ever noticed that the opposing shock idea that GM employs 
>contributes to odd behaviour on washboard roads?  Or is it my imagination?
>
I haven't noticed a washboard problem related to that shock
placement - but then my ride time has been limited having
never owned a GM leaf spring vehicle.  Most washboard
problems I have seen involve improper spring rates and
shock valving.  So the axle is not free to follow the
undulations.  Of course there is only so much one can
do in this regard with the high unsprung weight of live
axles.

A few years ago I did take four leaves out of the rear
spring packs on my Series 88 for a test.  The ride quality
improved immensely on bumps and washboard surface control
also was enhanced.  But it also became the sag wagon when
I loaded the tail with gear.  The trick is finding the
right balance for general use.

Tim Czajka
1972 Series III 88

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Message: 23
To: [email-masked], [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 22:19:50 -0400
From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Zenith
Reply-To: [email-masked]

 >  The vehicle runs great, but the carburetion is extremely rich. With
choke
off, the tailpipe spews black smoke, which gets worse upto about 2000
-3000
rpms, and after that it seems to clean up quite a bit, and run much
better.

 A common problem with the Zenith is an O ring that fits between the two
halves of the carb.  It is below the fuel level of the float chamber. 
Over time the o ring swells with the fuel, then if the vehicle is left
standing, the carb dries out and the o ring shrinks and subsequently fuel
can then leak into the choke from the float chamber, resulting in rich
running at lower engine rpm.   At low rpm it is sometimes possible to see
the fuel leaking into the choke. 

Try changing out the O ring.

Regards from Western New York State

  Bill Leacock.

--__--__--

Message: 24
To: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 22:00:33 -0400
From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Brake drums
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>I have also noticed on BP web page that there seems to be a change in
drums
>from '71 on.  Is this to do with different sizes of wheel studs?  Are
they
>otherwise interchangeable?

 Yes the brake drum part number changed at this time because the wheel 
stud changed from 9/16" to 16 mm (5/8")  
The drums are otherwise interchangeable.  It is advisable to change to
the 16 mm studs anyway, they are superior to the smaller studs in several
ways, but the major advantage is that they do not pull out of the hub.

Regards from Western New York State

  Bill Leacock.

--__--__--

Message: 25
From: "Rich & Lori Williams" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Land Rover Identity
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 20:02:16 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Also on a side note, My 67 with the V8 in it is nearing completion. To
> the point where it is fully operational and I am screwing, bolting and
> glueing on trim.  I was slightly concerned that the dataplate I have been
> saving for it, which I thought was the one for it, is not.  The seial/VIN
is
> different to the one on the title. Does anyone know if I can get a blank
> dataplate.  I have the VIN on the chassis leg and on the old title.
> Thanks again,
> Kind regards,
> Mark

Mark,

You can get a data plate for your IIa from a couple of different places...

1) British Pacific
2) Wise Owl
3) Matt Savage (in the UK)

These are identical reproductions which are blank, you simply stamp in your
correct #'s and as they say, Bob's your Uncle.  I had to do the same thing
for my SII.  You're lucky that you've got the IIa and not the II because
finding data plates for the older trucks is enough to make you nuts.

Hope this helps,

Rich

--__--__--

Message: 26
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] LROI magazine
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 09:58:33 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Ian Kelly (Tuscany, Italy)
>1970 Series IIA 88" (Los Angeles)
>"what kind of bad geographical planning is this?"

Ah yes, but you can probably find a clean rust free series truck preserved 
with Olive Oil and a V-12 Ferrari under the hood.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

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Message: 27
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 08:47:13 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

If the fuel probe is unmolested, it has a fine wire mesh screen around it.  
This screen can get crud and algae growing on it so all or part is blocked.  
Need to pull the probe to fine out.  If the probe no longer has the screen, 
particles can accumulate under suction of the engine running and block up.  
As soon as the engine dies, the suction is released, and the junk falls back 
into the tank.  Had this happen and had a devil of a time figuring it out 
till I thought to pull the probe with the engine running.  The light bulb 
went on when slivers of rust fell out as soon as the engine quit.

You can flush the tank with water to get out the major stuff.  A rusty tank 
usually continues to flake off very fine rust particles which will by pass 
the fuel pump screen, get into the carb and block things up.  Suggest you 
put on an inline paper element filter till your sure the fuel system has 
cleaned itself out.  It can take several months, and many filter changes to 
get this crud out of the system.  Will clean up but I've had to drive around 
in all my trucks with the top off the seat box and an inline filter 
installed at the tank.  Drive till it stops, whip off the filter and tap the 
gunk out or replace, drive on and repeat the process till the crud 
disappears.  May take a while and many filters, but it will go away.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

>From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: <[email-masked]>
>Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III
>Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 22:45:39 +1000
>
>
> > 1. Could be crud in the tank blocking the pickup tube.
> > 2.  Plugged up fuel filter (less likely)
> > 3. weak fuel pump
> >
> >
> > I'd bet on 1.  I'd drain out the tank, rinse with a bit of petrol, 
>refill
>and
> > see if the problem goes away.  If a lot of rusty stuff comes out, I'd be
> > thinking about replacing the tank.
>
>Yeah Nate, I thought of a blocked pick up but I'm not sure. Fuel drained 
>out
>easily from the part of the line still on the tank unless it was held
>upright. I'll drain the tank soon and check it out anyway. I plan on
>replacing all filters and fluids in the next week or so. Until then I won't
>be doing much driving anyway.
>
>Thanks,
>Matt
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

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Message: 28
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Weber 32/36 DGV
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 13:23:47 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

You can use the stock manifold with an adapter.  Check with the Pierce 
Manifold or BP for this adapter.  Probably doesn't allow the carb to give 
the performance boost it's capable of.

BP has a prejudiced write up on the 32-36.  They reccomend larger jets than 
I've been using on my trucks.  Stock is 135/140.  Have gone to 145/150 on 
one truck.  Still using the stock jets on my 8-1/2.5 cam engine without any 
problems, however.  Mostly operates around 1200' but has gone from sea level 
to 5,000' without problems.  Took the 145/150 truck to 13,000' without 
difficulty.  That might indicate that its running a bit lean.

A possible problem with the two barrel is a flat spot when the 2nd venturi 
opens.  Haven't seen the problem on my 2 trucks but its been reported.  
Don't know whether a jet change is a possible solution.  Pierce does offer a 
progressive kit that marries the two venturis so they open together.  In 
talking with Pierce, they reccomend the kit as they feel the 32mm is too 
small for a 2 1/4L engine to run on in normal conditions.  I like the 
smaller venturi for economy and haven't had a problem.  The progressive kit 
includes smaller jets so fuel consumption may not go up significantly though 
some loss in top end may happen.  Who's seen any top end in a Rover Engine, 
anyway???

BP makes a big deal about the jets being located at the bottom of the float 
bowl.  Have had them clog up before I started using an inline filter.  No 
problems since despite a very dirty fuel tank that would clog a filter in a 
couple of minutes.

FWIW, I've always run the 32/26 as the Solexs died on my trucks before I 
purchased them.  Haven't had the fuel vapor lock problems that have been 
reported by some.  Truck does hesitate when restarted, hot, for the first 
few throttle cycles.  Goes away in a block or two.  Of course, haven't 
experienced any throttle icing which is another reported problem.  Have not 
found an angle the truck won't run perfectly with the Weber.  We've got some 
pretty good slopes here and the truck has continued to chug along even as it 
rolled past 90 degree.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

>From: "M. Tompkins" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: Land Rover Owners <[email-masked]>
>Subject: [lro] Weber 32/36 DGV
>Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 19:20:52 -0400
>
>
>I have the Land Rover 2.5L 4cyl in my 109 SW, now
>a hybrid coiler, and considering the Weber 32/36 DGV
>carburetor.  So, I have a few questions.
>Has anyone done this and can give me some advice?
>Any info on what size jets,  standard or other. I run
>at or near sea level nearly all the time.
>I don't think I need to swap inlet manifolds but have
>heard others put on a Pierce. Any reason why and
>and sources for this manifold?
>Should I move off the oil bath filter and go with the
>K&N setup?
>Anything I am overlooking or missing?
>
>Thanks,
>Mike
>'66 Hybrid Coiler 109" SW
>http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Trails/6623/
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

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Message: 29
From: "Travis Garrett" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 00:07:36 -0500
Subject: [lro] Disco A-frame schematics
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I've got a 97 Disco and would love to have an A-frame brush bar.  However, I 
don't have $200+.  What I do have is material to build my own.  Does anyone 
have schematics or measurements for an A-frame.

Thanks,

Travis
97 Disco
Arkansas

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