Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #130 - 55 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 03:11:01 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Photos of my "new" series III (Mick Forster)
   2. Re: Photos of my "new" series III (apsilon)
   3. Re: My "new" series III (apsilon)
   4. Re: Photos of my "new" series III (apsilon)
   5. Re: My "new" series III (apsilon)
   6. Re: Photos of my "new" series III (apsilon)
   7. Interstate Motor Speedway (Hank Rutherford)
   8. RE: Photos of my "new" series III (Easton Trevor A)
   9. Re: Interstate Motor Speedway (Jim Hall)
  10. Re: heater blower alternatives ? (John Cranfield)
  11. RE: Interstate Motor Speedway (Easton Trevor A)
  12. Re: My "new" series III (Paul Oxley)
  13. RE: My new Series III (Andre Shoumatoff)
  14. Re: Jay Peak (Rob MacCormick)
  15. Re: My "new" series III (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  16. Re: My "new" series III (Kirk Hillman)
  17. Ooops > seat repair (Rob MacCormick)
  18. Re: Ooops > seat repair ([email-masked])
  19. Re: Ooops > seat repair (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  20. Re: Interstate Motor Speedway (Smokey Briggs)
  21. Need Warn m-11 Hub part (asfco)
  22. Re: Need Warn m-11 Hub part (Scott Wickham)
  23. opinions requested (Jeff Bieler)
  24. Re: Need Warn m-11 Hub part (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  25. Re: Spark plugs (Scott Wickham)
  26. Re: Bulkhead Draft/ top end speed (Scott Wickham)
  27. Re: opinions requested (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  28. Re: opinions requested (Bryan Hoult)
  29. Re: Spark plugs (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  30. I ask again for info from the North American Land Rover Trek... (=?Windows-1252?Q?Mattias_Bostr=F6m?=)
  31. Re: opinions requested (RON WARD)
  32. Re: opinions requested (Jeff Bieler)
  33. Re: opinions requested (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  34. Re: opinions requested (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  35. Re: opinions requested (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  36. Re: Weber 32/36 DGV (Hope Peter)
  37. Re: Spark plugs (David Scheidt)
  38. Re: opinions requested (Jeff Bieler)
  39. Re: opinions requested (Jeff Bieler)
  40. Re: opinions requested (Jeff Bieler)
  41. Re: Need Warn m-11 Hub part (asfco)
  42. Barnyard gems (no LR content) (Simon J. Harding)
  43. Re: opinions requested (Bryan Hoult)
  44. Re: opinions requested (Stephen West-Fisher)
  45. Re: Spark plugs (d.h.lowe)
  46. Re: Spark plugs (Scott Wickham)
  47. LR for sale? Purchaser here. (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  48. brief server outage Tuesday 23rd Oct (Bill Caloccia)
  49. Re: opinions requested (Hope Peter)
  50. Re: Ooops > seat repair (Alex Maiolo)
  51. Re: Interstate Motor Speedway (Jim Hall)
  52. latest event ([email-masked])
  53. Re: I ask again for info from the North American Land
       Rover Trek... (Jim Hall)
  54. Re: Ooops > seat repair ([email-masked])

--__--__--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 10:00:00 +0100
From: Mick Forster <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Photos of my "new" series III
Reply-To: [email-masked]

apsilon wrote:

> The last photo shows something on the fuel line just before the carby that I
> don't recognise. If anyone can identify it I'd apprecaite it.

It looks like a solenoid valve to me too, like Chaz said to cut off the
petrol supply when running on LPG.
I would take it off altogether and if use a new one if you convert it
back to LPG again.
I find it amazing how different Landys are under the bonnet/hood.
Looking at yours, the heater box is completely different from mine as is
the carb and the radiator.
Do you have a brake vacuum servo somewhere? I can see the pipe coming
off the inlet manifold but on mine to servo is on the master cylinder.
Nice looking motor though, I particularly like the Safari double skin
roof, but I thought they all had alpine windows.

Good luck with it.

Mick Forster
Series III LWB Safari 2.25 petrol/LPG 1973
Series IIa SWB 2.25 petrol 1962
Series IIa SWB electric one day!!
http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/landpics.html
http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/gascon/gas.html

--__--__--

Message: 2
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Photos of my "new" series III
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 20:46:33 +1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Wow, that bull bar looks like it's off a road train!
>
> Keith

Shouldn't you and Basil be out in Moab by now?

It's a fairly common style of bullbar here, particularly on older vehicles.
Much larger than it really needs to be. Does have a nice intimidation factor
though, I've already noticed how no one cuts me off in traffic :)

Matt.

--__--__--

Message: 3
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 20:56:47 +1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Usually when a pump goes it is a hole in the diaphram and it still pumps,
> just not enough volume.

I have a friend with a Mini that has a hole in the diaphram which works fine
unless the fuel level gets too low. I suspect I saw the same thing as I was
going up a reasonably steep hill at the time. Thanks to everyone who took
the time to respond and offer advice, it's much appreciated.

> The home made big front tanks that I have seen have a front section the
> height of the frame that extends under the front floor panels to the
> bulkhead crossmember and takes up all the space between the bottom of the
> frame and the floor board. The front fuel tank crossmember disapears and
> the bulkhead crossmember becomes the front tank mount.  As I remember,
> each front tank picks up about 4 or 5 additional US gallons of fuel.

The line drawing of the tank I saw is an L shape so I presume the lower part
goes forward under the floor as you describe. I'm going to contact them and
ask. They have a website but unfortunately it has little other than their
contact details. Their catalog on the other hand is excellent, one of the
best I've seen.

> If you want to balance your Land Rover's overall weight distribution
> better it is possible to add the rear fuel tank from a newish Jeep to the
> rear of an 88.

That Jeep tank would probably cost a lot here, I may be better off fitting a
custom tank. Interesting idea though.

Thanks,
Matt.

--__--__--

Message: 4
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Photos of my "new" series III
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 20:58:59 +1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> looks like a valve probably. I'd take it off as it could be related to
> your no fuel problems.

It's been confirmed as an LPG cutoff. I still don't see how it works but as
I don't need it I'll pull it out this weekend. Thanks everyone for your
help.

Regards,
Matt.

--__--__--

Message: 5
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 21:04:38 +1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Does anyone EVER buy a Land Rover and have it run fine on it's first day
> home?
> What do we do with new (used) cars that makes them konk out on day one?
> Matt's lucky, I usually don't even make it home!

It's all part of the fun. I must have done at least 60km before it stopped
which isn't bad :)

> Ah yes, and the old "add fuel to it and hope it starts" trick. Done that
> too. It didn't work for me either : (
> Good diagnosis on the fuel system though!

My main problem was that I'd literally just picked it up and didn't have any
tools and didn't know where things actually were other than an educated idea
of where they should be. My friends dad was a big help as he knew where
everything was as he'd owned a series II previously, he also brought tools
which were a big help.

> I'll tell you, whenever I buy a Series truck, I just got right out and buy
a
> new fuel filter, lines, clamps, and usually a new cap, rotor, points,
wires,
> plugs and coil if they even look *slightly* suspicious. It's $150 out of
> pocket from the get go, but I just budget for it, and that eliminates
about
> 75% of what will leave you on the side of the road.

Already done some of that and the rest is coming this weekend.

> Welcome aboard Matt!

Thanks,
Matt.

--__--__--

Message: 6
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Photos of my "new" series III
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 21:09:15 +1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Do you have a brake vacuum servo somewhere? I can see the pipe coming
> off the inlet manifold but on mine to servo is on the master cylinder.

To be honest at this stage I couldn't tell you. Brakes will come in for some
attention in the next couple of weeks when I go over the whole system.

> Nice looking motor though, I particularly like the Safari double skin
> roof, but I thought they all had alpine windows.

Thanks. I think the alpine windows were an option which obviosuly this one
doesn't have. I'd like to have them but then again I may convert to a soft
top for most of the year unless I go on a longer trip and want to use a roof
rack.

Matt.

--__--__--

Message: 7
From: "Hank Rutherford" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 20:06:41 -0400
Subject: [lro] Interstate Motor Speedway
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I am planning an east to west trip in a SerIIa swb, traveling from Asheville
North Carolina to Colorado Springs, leaving the second week of November. I'd
like to roughly follow Interstate 70 but would prefer staying off the
Interstate Motor Speedway at least half the time, running parallel scenic
routes. Has anyone out there got advice or experiences they could share?

Hank Rutherford
SerIIa "Gromit"

--__--__--

Message: 8
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Photos of my "new" series III
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 07:51:20 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Looks like it could be a fuel shut off solenoid. To cut of the petrol supply
when running on LPG. Can't understand the connections though. Maybe this is
why it wouldn't run?

The last photo shows something on the fuel line just before the carby that I
don't recognise. If anyone can identify it I'd apprecaite it.

--__--__--

Message: 9
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 06:31:58 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Interstate Motor Speedway
Reply-To: [email-masked]

My advice is to stay on it through Kansas as there is nothing scenic in
most of the state. 

Hank Rutherford wrote:
> 
> I am planning an east to west trip in a SerIIa swb, traveling from Asheville
> North Carolina to Colorado Springs, leaving the second week of November. I'd
> like to roughly follow Interstate 70 but would prefer staying off the
> Interstate Motor Speedway at least half the time, running parallel scenic
> routes. Has anyone out there got advice or experiences they could share?
> 
> Hank Rutherford
> SerIIa "Gromit"
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 10
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 09:47:37 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] heater blower alternatives ?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Jeff doesn't believe in computors much less Email.
John and Muddy 

Jean-Leon Morin wrote:
> 
> Hello listers,
> 
> Is there a Landie owner named Jeff Meyer sitting in one of the corners
> somewhere?
> 
> Does anyone have his E mail?
> 
> thanks
> 
> J-L
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 11
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Interstate Motor Speedway
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 08:43:28 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

DelOrme's Map'n Go software does a good job of calculating shortest routes
etc and you can set preferences to avoid interstates etc. You can even set
speed expectations to match Series LR spec's and have some realistic trip
times.

I am planning an east to west trip in a SerIIa swb, traveling from Asheville
North Carolina to Colorado Springs, leaving the second week of November. I'd
like to roughly follow Interstate 70 but would prefer staying off the
Interstate Motor Speedway at least half the time, running parallel scenic
routes. Has anyone out there got advice or experiences they could share?

Hank Rutherford
SerIIa "Gromit"
_______________________________________________

--__--__--

Message: 12
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 13:37:56 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III
Reply-To: [email-masked]

apsilon wrote:
> I must have done at least 60km before it stopped
> which isn't bad :)

Prolly better than average.
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

--__--__--

Message: 13
From: "Andre Shoumatoff" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 09:10:56 -0400
Subject: [lro] RE: My new Series III
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Picts of the truck:
> You can find them at http://www.apsilon.com/matt/lr/index.htm

Nice looking truck Matt!
Good luck with it!

Andre

--__--__--

Message: 14
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 09:33:42 -0400
From: Rob MacCormick <[email-masked]>
Organization: Boston College
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Jay Peak
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Great place......I grew up in Schenectady NY near Albany so a familiar with te
East ski scene....Ive been to Jay several times over the years...Now I live in te
Boston MA area and around these parts whenever it rains in MA. NH, VT (except
Jay) we always say "snowin' at Jay...A couple of other benefits is that they take
canadian money at par and teh border is close enought to cross and retrieve some
canadian beer......Hopefully I'll get back there some year...Last time I was
there it was so wind a lift op. brokwe his leg when the shack at the top of a
t-bar was blown over....Rob M

--__--__--

Message: 15
Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 09:48:05 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Y'know, that's odd - I agree they can be contrary, though.

When i bought Miss Jessica in Oxford, I tootled up to Loughborough to fisit
friends, and then from there to SOuthampton to put the old girl on the boat
for the long, slow ride.

I will admit that it did cost me a starter in Southampton...but she didn't
strand me. Hellooooooo starting handle....

On the other side of the boat ride I drove the old girl from Baltimore, MD
to Chelmsford, MA (appx 600 miles) without a hiccup.

Just lucky, I guess.

                  ajr

--__--__--

Message: 16
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 08:21:36 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Paul,
    Do you have any photos of these huge tanks?  If you custom built them,
any dimensions?  I was thinking about a small jeep tank in the rear but that
would mean three tanks and lots more complicated valving/switching to
engineer.  With two larger tanks I could use what I have.

Thanks,
Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 17
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 10:11:25 -0400
From: Rob MacCormick <[email-masked]>
Organization: Boston College
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Ooops > seat repair
Reply-To: [email-masked]

As interesting as my comments on Jay peak may have been, I apologize for posting it
to the list. It was supposed to go to an individual......Who put the dark roast in my
decaf mug-g-g-g?

I have a smal tear (darned rivets in Carhart clothing) on a vinyl seat
cover.....What's a good way to repair?

--__--__--

Message: 18
From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 10:29:37 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] Ooops > seat repair
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 10/22/01 10:23:54 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> I have a smal tear (darned rivets in Carhart clothing) on a vinyl seat
> cover.....What's a good way to repair?
> 

There are repair kits for vinyl.  They work ok for small tears in non-wear 
areas.  The best LR repair I've seen for seat bottom cushions with tears was 
jet black Duct Tape.   Very inconspicuous and really cheap (hence LR repair)

Nate

--__--__--

Message: 19
Subject: Re: [lro] Ooops > seat repair
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 10:57:41 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I have a smal tear (darned rivets in Carhart clothing) on a vinyl seat
cover.....What's a good way to repair?

DUCT TAPE!

If you use contrasting colors you can achieve a checkered-tablecloth look
that will put you in good with all the other watchers of the Red Green
show.....

Seriously, i've used the vinyl mender kits from the auto-parts store to
good effect on more than one occasion. Reinforce under the tear with a bit
of duct tape or cloth tape worked in under the cover with a probe, then
mend over it.

                                    ajr

--__--__--

Message: 20
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 10:38:54 -0500
Subject: Re: [lro] Interstate Motor Speedway
From: Smokey Briggs <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hank, 

i've driven U.S. 50 from East Missouri to Fallon, Nevada before. It was
about 15 years ago but I had similar desires as to the Interstate speedway.
It was a fun drive through Missouri and Colorado was big fun. I don't have a
map handy but seems like there was a Wolf Creek Pass in Co. that tested the
gearing on my 68 Chevy pu. Very scenic. Seems like it roughly parallels
I-70. 

Smokey Briggs
Pecos, Texas

> From: "Hank Rutherford" <[email-masked]>
> Reply-To: [email-masked]
> Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 20:06:41 -0400
> To: <[email-masked]>
> Subject: [lro] Interstate Motor Speedway
> 
> 
> I am planning an east to west trip in a SerIIa swb, traveling from Asheville
> North Carolina to Colorado Springs, leaving the second week of November. I'd
> like to roughly follow Interstate 70 but would prefer staying off the
> Interstate Motor Speedway at least half the time, running parallel scenic
> routes. Has anyone out there got advice or experiences they could share?
> 
> Hank Rutherford
> SerIIa "Gromit"
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 21
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 12:00:25 -0400
From: asfco <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Need Warn m-11 Hub part
Reply-To: [email-masked]

when I went to replace the roller bearing that I found on the floor I
discovered I am missing 4 others as well.
Does anyone have any of these bearings??
   I called Warn and they no longer have parts for these hubs. These
were timken bearings made especially for the m-11 hubs
Thanks
Rgds
Steve Bradke '68 lla 88

--__--__--

Message: 22
From: "Scott Wickham" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Need Warn m-11 Hub part
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 12:46:35 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Steve, look up our web site and contact Earl Stone.  He works for Timken.

Scott Wickham Jr.
Pgh., Pa.
Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
'72 SIII
'84 RR

http://www.fplrg.org/ 

--__--__--

Message: 23
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 09:49:14 -0700
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: Land Rovers <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] opinions requested
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I need a new carb.  The original Solex on is going fast.  There is a leak at
the spindal for the butterfly where the body of the carb is out of round
along with assorted leaks that new gaskets have not cured.  The amount of
gas I am now finding on the manifold after I shut it down (doesn't leak
beyond very very slight seepage when there is vacuum) is not building my
confidence.

Recarbco has the 1bbl Rochester that will drop on replace the Solex (with a
minor wallowing out of the mounting holes).  With the core $, the new carb
will be about $116 +shipping.

They are offering a $40 core refund if I give them the Solex after I drop on
the Rochestor.  Aside from "keeping it original" reasoning, any reason NOT
to ship them the old Solex and get the $40?

Just fishing for opinions.

Jeff

--__--__--

Message: 24
Subject: Re: [lro] Need Warn m-11 Hub part
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 12:51:01 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Steve, are these just hardened steel rollers?

If they are, a trip to a bearing shop with one of them as a sample would
likely net you something pretty close - if too long, a bit of grinder work
then a whetstone could fix that.

I can't picture anyone actually making a custom roller....

                              ajr

--__--__--

Message: 25
From: "Scott Wickham" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Spark plugs
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 13:02:01 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Champion RN12YC...it is the listed plug for the Disco, the
Series...

  Thought that was the UN12Y for a Series truck?

Scooter

--__--__--

Message: 26
From: "Scott Wickham" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Bulkhead Draft/ top end speed
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 13:09:42 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Cheers, Mark Love  ...Fastest ser l on the planet

  I just drove this 'rod and she pulls real hard and has lot's of power.
Earl has a V6 though.  But Mark used to own a hopped up Trams Am and can
flog a car with the best of them.  I'll take $5 on Mark ;)

  And on this thread, I changed my cylinder head for another 8:1 head and
what a difference!  My truck has more power too.  Idles a little rough but,
runs better overall.  My old head had a recessing exhaust valve on #4 and #3
exh. valve was cracked.  I just saw on a British Pacific web page about
having a Weber carb (I do) and that you should jet it one or two jets
richer.  If not, exh. valves could get damaged.  True?

Scott Wickham Jr.
Pgh., Pa.
Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
'72 SIII
'84 RR

http://www.fplrg.org/

--__--__--

Message: 27
Subject: Re: [lro] opinions requested
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 13:28:52 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Personal opinion - I'd go to a junkyard, find an old 1BBL carb for $10 and
ship 'em that.

Or ask around - there's likely to be more than a few of us with a Judas
goat in the junkbox.

Personally, i'd hang onto the Solex. The wear you're talking about is
repairable by boring and sleeving, and if it's leaking I'd tend to believe
the float and its valve are sticking or the accelerator pump linkage is
misadjusted. It can be fixed - and there just aren't any of 'em anymore.
Once that one goes, finding another would be difficult.

Just my pennyworth... - ajr

--__--__--

Message: 28
Date: 22 Oct 2001 10:33:35 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] opinions requested
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Mon, 22 October 2001, Jeff Bieler wrote:

> I need a new carb.

I'm curious why you ruled out the Weber single bbl.  

I personally can't see any reason to hang on to the Solex - unless you also hang onto things like wrong handed scissors and dull saw blades.  They all work, but there are better alternatives.

Bryan

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

--__--__--

Message: 29
Subject: Re: [lro] Spark plugs
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 14:00:03 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

UN12Y?

WHat, they come in a white box?

8*)

Seriously, what's a UN12Y.

                  ajr

--__--__--

Message: 30
From: =?Windows-1252?Q?Mattias_Bostr=F6m?= <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 20:20:27 +0200
Subject: [lro] I ask again for info from the North American Land Rover Trek...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Cheers!

I would like to know if anyone have or know where I could get a video from
the "Land Rover Trek 2000". It was an article about it in the february issue
of LRO this year. I would have to get it in the European standard since I
live in Sweden. I could also have use of pictures from the same event
especially from the test drive course.

Thank you all in advance.
The drinks would be on me for some time if I get a hold of this...

Best Regards
Mattias Bostrom
S.L.R.K #1329
Land Rover 90" -98 Tdi CSW
BMW 528i Touring
home page: http://user.tninet.se/~vwu213j
e-mail: [email-masked]

--__--__--

Message: 31
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 14:21:09 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] opinions requested
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Jeff,

Get the Rochester.

Ron

>>> [email-masked] 10/22/01 12:49PM >>>

I need a new carb.  The original Solex on is going fast.  There is a leak at
the spindal for the butterfly where the body of the carb is out of round
along with assorted leaks that new gaskets have not cured.  The amount of
gas I am now finding on the manifold after I shut it down (doesn't leak
beyond very very slight seepage when there is vacuum) is not building my
confidence.

Recarbco has the 1bbl Rochester that will drop on replace the Solex (with a
minor wallowing out of the mounting holes).  With the core $, the new carb
will be about $116 +shipping.

They are offering a $40 core refund if I give them the Solex after I drop on
the Rochestor.  Aside from "keeping it original" reasoning, any reason NOT
to ship them the old Solex and get the $40?

Just fishing for opinions.

Jeff
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked] 
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 32
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 11:39:23 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] opinions requested
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I choose the Rochester for a few reasons.  I like the top end performance
(fact of life is that the the truck is on the pavement more often then it's
in the dirt on a daily basis).  I also like that it's a drop on replacement
that will work with the linkage as is and will work with the oil bath air
cleaner that I use when I know I'm going off road versus the K&N I use
daily.  It comes well recommended and I've had a chance to drive a Series
equipped with one and liked the performance.

As for keeping the Solex.  I'm leaning towards Alan's reasoning that there
just aren't many around any more.  If I could cure the leaks, I would keep
it as I think it's a good carb.  I can't take the truck down while I have it
rebuilt, but I'm think it might be a good idea to keep it and have the
butterfly spindal sleeved.  I was curious what others thought.

Jeff

on 10/22/01 10:33 AM, Bryan Hoult at [email-masked] wrote:

> 
> On Mon, 22 October 2001, Jeff Bieler wrote:
> 
>> I need a new carb.
> 
> I'm curious why you ruled out the Weber single bbl.
> 
> I personally can't see any reason to hang on to the Solex - unless you also
> hang onto things like wrong handed scissors and dull saw blades.  They all
> work, but there are better alternatives.
> 
> Bryan
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________
> PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart.
> http://www.peoplepc.com
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 33
Subject: Re: [lro] opinions requested
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 01 12:11:10 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Recarbco has the 1bbl Rochester

Is it the correct one?  There are at least 3 venturi sizes available & if 
you get the wrong one you are pretty much guarrenteed a flat spot or two 
on the acceleration curve.

You want the one with a 30.9mm venturi.  If Rebco does not carry it 
British Pacific does.  THey also carry a selection of main jets for the 
carbs.

If you near sea level a 51 jet is very close for this carb. Since 
switching mai jets is easy you might want to carry a 48 jet for above 
5000 feet.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 34
Subject: Re: [lro] opinions requested
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 01 12:15:52 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Personally, i'd hang onto the Solex. The wear you're talking about is
>repairable by boring and sleeving, and if it's leaking I'd tend to believe
>the float and its valve are sticking or the accelerator pump linkage is
>misadjusted. It can be fixed - and there just aren't any of 'em anymore.
>Once that one goes, finding another would be difficult.

The rebuild kits for the Solex has recently gone NLA.  When the pipeline 
is empty you will not be able to get rebuild parts.

The Solex is an excellent low RPM carb but flows poorly at highway RPMs 
compaired to the Zenith that replaced it.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 35
Subject: Re: [lro] opinions requested
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 01 12:24:48 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>> I need a new carb.
>
>I'm curious why you ruled out the Weber single bbl.

One reason I would is that the main jet is at the bottom of the Weber's 
float chamber where any sediment can clog it.  The Rochester's at the top 
and almost never clogs.

A second is that if you get the correct Rochester it is easier to get 
right on the jetting with no flat spots.

A third is that the Rochester flows better.  It will not make a 
difference on a 7:1 engine, but if he ever gets around to rebuilding it 
and happens to add an 8:1 or 9:1 head, replumb the exhaust system one 
diameter larger & add a lower resistance muffler, 2.5L cam and the new 
Lucas distributor British Pacific is selling with the higher performance 
advance curve, the Rochester can get the best out of the engine.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 36
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Weber 32/36 DGV
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 12:15:32 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> I have the Land Rover 2.5L 4cyl in my 109 SW, now
> a hybrid coiler, and considering the Weber 32/36 DGV
> carburetor.  So, I have a few questions.
> Has anyone done this and can give me some advice?
> Any info on what size jets,  standard or other. I run
> at or near sea level nearly all the time.
> I don't think I need to swap inlet manifolds but have
> heard others put on a Pierce. Any reason why and
> and sources for this manifold?
> Should I move off the oil bath filter and go with the
> K&N setup?
> Anything I am overlooking or missing?

If you are going to stick with the stock 1bbl manifold you will need to get
a 2bbl adapter to use the DGV.  If you go with the Pierce 2bbl manifold you
will need to make a blanking plate for the exhaust.  Also if you live in an
area that gets low temps, you should consider the manifold that has the
built in water jacket.
The stock oil bath filter does not flow enough air for the DGV.  Plus you
would need to make a custom fitting to mount to the top of the carb.
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 37
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 15:37:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Spark plugs
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Mon, 22 Oct 2001, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:

> 
> UN12Y?
> 
> WHat, they come in a white box?
> 
> 8*)
> 
> Seriously, what's a UN12Y.
> 

A champion spark plug.  N body (13/16 hex, 16mm threads, 3/4" long ) heat
range 12 (higher is hotter), shape family Y.  U weill be something about the
construction, but champion decided that they needed new ones a couple years
ago, and I don't know them.

--__--__--

Message: 38
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 12:44:48 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] opinions requested
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I got my last rebuild kit from Wise Owl (don't know where Ray sources them
or his inventory).  That was about 3 weeks ago.  The leaks seemed to
dissappear, but quickly returned.

on 10/22/01 12:15 PM, TeriAnn Wakeman at [email-masked] wrote:

> 
>> Personally, i'd hang onto the Solex. The wear you're talking about is
>> repairable by boring and sleeving, and if it's leaking I'd tend to believe
>> the float and its valve are sticking or the accelerator pump linkage is
>> misadjusted. It can be fixed - and there just aren't any of 'em anymore.
>> Once that one goes, finding another would be difficult.
> 
> The rebuild kits for the Solex has recently gone NLA.  When the pipeline
> is empty you will not be able to get rebuild parts.
> 
> The Solex is an excellent low RPM carb but flows poorly at highway RPMs
> compaired to the Zenith that replaced it.
> 
> TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
> Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW -
> [email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message
> 
> http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman
> 
> "How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
> Amelia Earhart 1898-1937
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 39
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 12:48:43 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] opinions requested
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I'm taking small chunks out of the next few paychecks for the penny jar
marked "rebuilt 8:1 unleaded head"...

Going to a Pertronix was a huge boost.  Getting the new carb should bump me
up another notch.  By the time I get to the new head, I think it will be a
whole new experience...

As it stands now, I just came back from a 500 mile road trip up the coast.
Did about 53~55MPH from the reports of the guys who were willing to caravan
at those speeds.  The truck seemed pretty pleased and got about 15.5MPG.  I
think that trip will be even easier once all the above mentioned tid-bits
are in place.

Jeff

on 10/22/01 12:24 PM, TeriAnn Wakeman at [email-masked] wrote:

> 
>>> I need a new carb.
>> 
>> I'm curious why you ruled out the Weber single bbl.
> 
> One reason I would is that the main jet is at the bottom of the Weber's
> float chamber where any sediment can clog it.  The Rochester's at the top
> and almost never clogs.
> 
> A second is that if you get the correct Rochester it is easier to get
> right on the jetting with no flat spots.
> 
> A third is that the Rochester flows better.  It will not make a
> difference on a 7:1 engine, but if he ever gets around to rebuilding it
> and happens to add an 8:1 or 9:1 head, replumb the exhaust system one
> diameter larger & add a lower resistance muffler, 2.5L cam and the new
> Lucas distributor British Pacific is selling with the higher performance
> advance curve, the Rochester can get the best out of the engine.
> 
> TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
> Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW -
> [email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message
> 
> http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman
> 
> "How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
> Amelia Earhart 1898-1937
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 40
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 12:51:30 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] opinions requested
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Thanks, I specifically asked for the 30.9mm carb.  I am going to call their
tech in a few minutes to place the order, so I will reconfirm.  He is
throwing in a series of jets (48 ~ 52) for me to dial in with and he also
said that the spacer is included.

Jeff

on 10/22/01 12:11 PM, TeriAnn Wakeman at [email-masked] wrote:

> 
>> Recarbco has the 1bbl Rochester
> 
> Is it the correct one?  There are at least 3 venturi sizes available & if
> you get the wrong one you are pretty much guarrenteed a flat spot or two
> on the acceleration curve.
> 
> You want the one with a 30.9mm venturi.  If Rebco does not carry it
> British Pacific does.  THey also carry a selection of main jets for the
> carbs.
> 
> If you near sea level a 51 jet is very close for this carb. Since
> switching mai jets is easy you might want to carry a 48 jet for above
> 5000 feet.
> 
> 
> 
> TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
> Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW -
> [email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message
> 
> http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman
> 
> "How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
> Amelia Earhart 1898-1937
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 41
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 16:15:38 -0400
From: asfco <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Need Warn m-11 Hub part
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Scott Wickham wrote:

> Steve, look up our web site and contact Earl Stone.  He works for Timken.
>
> Scott Wickham Jr.
> Pgh., Pa.
> Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
> '72 SIII
> '84 RR
>
> http://www.fplrg.org/
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

Thanks Scott;

I just sent him an e mail
Rgds
Steve

--__--__--

Message: 42
From: "Simon J. Harding" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 14:32:31 -0700
Subject: [lro] Barnyard gems (no LR content)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Saw a 1941 Plymouth four door in a barn this morning, where it has been
sitting for some time.  One of the fellows I was with was the son of the
original owner.  Looks like it was red, most of the lenses and all the
emblems, hood ornament intact.  Suicide doors and (I was told)  a flathead
six cylinder engine.  The family farms.  During the war, they had the newest
car on the block - until at war's end, Plymouth started making cars again.
It was in very rough shape as they used it in its later years (before the
transmission died)  to drive the fields to move irrigation pipe.

Simon

--__--__--

Message: 43
Date: 22 Oct 2001 14:55:02 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] opinions requested
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Mon, 22 October 2001, TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:

........
>It will not make a 
>difference on a 7:1 engine.....

Valid point.

Bryan

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

--__--__--

Message: 44
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 18:26:40 -0400
From: Stephen West-Fisher <[email-masked]>
Organization: Coastal Data Systems
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] opinions requested
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Jeff Bieler wrote:
> I need a new carb.  The original Solex on is going fast.  There is a leak at
> the spindal for the butterfly where the body of the carb is out of round
> along with assorted leaks that new gaskets have not cured.

Drive it, then remove the top cover from the carb. Is the gas boiling? 
If so, you are probably syphoning out the gas from the bowl. If this is 
the case, a new carb will do the same thing. You need the block under 
the carb, and the heat shield on the exaust unless you live in a cold 
climate. Solex even recommends to add another shield between the exaust 
manifold and the carb in hot climates.

--__--__--

Message: 45
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 18:41:57 -0400
From: "d.h.lowe" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Spark plugs
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Alan  The U used to stand for the booster gap type plug but they are a
discontinued item as far as I know to be superceded by the resister type
R.
P.S. New workshop wired, insulated and painted. Chicken coop (storage)
work in progres.
Cheers   Dave

> UN12Y?
>
> WHat, they come in a white box?
>
> 8*)
>
> Seriously, what's a UN12Y.
>
>                   ajr
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 46
From: "Scott Wickham" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Spark plugs
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 19:49:01 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Seriously, what's a UN12Y.

                  ajr

   I was in the bathroom reading "Land Rover The Original 4X4" and on page
159 it say's "the 2.25 takes Champion UN12Y or equivelant (7.0:1, N8),
gapped to .029 to .032in."
  The Haynes say's, page 57, chapter 4 Ignition system, Champion UN12Y for
8:1 comp. and Champion N8 for 7:1 comp.  Someone, Russ Wilson I think, wrote
in the front flap of this old Haynes book, Plugs: NGK B7ES.  I can't
remember what's in Sherman right now.

Scooter

--__--__--

Message: 47
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 01 17:04:27 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: " mendo rec list" <[email-masked]>, "LRO list"
  <[email-masked]>, "Paul Archibald" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] LR for sale? Purchaser here.
Reply-To: [email-masked]

---------------- Begin Forwarded Message ----------------
Date:        10/22  4:48 PM
Received:    10/22  5:02 PM
From:        [email-masked]
To:          TeriAnn Wakeman, [email-masked]

Im from Illinois but willing to travel ANYWHERE including Canada and 
Alaska 
in search of an old, unrestored Land Rover Pre 1970. However a long wheel 
base would be preferable.  Please get back to me with any info you might 
have.  

Mike
 [email-masked]

----------------- End Forwarded Message -----------------

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 48
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 21:04:51 -0400
From: Bill Caloccia <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked], [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] brief server outage Tuesday 23rd Oct
Reply-To: [email-masked]

approx. 2100 or 2300 GMT to 0100 hours
approx. 1700 or 1900 EDT to 2100 hours
approx. 1400 or 1600 PDT to 1800 hours
approx. mid-day Hawai'i & Alaska

The DNSs have been knocked down to ridiculously small time-outs, so they should
update fairly rapidly, unless you're off an ISP with and evil caching DNS that
isn't doing the right thing... The web-sites will be off the air, and mail
should just queue up on the sending or intermediate hosts, with just a delay
in delivery.

why? 'cause I'm moving the server from my living room to the new WCOM co-lo

How did it get to my living room from the other co-lo Saturday morning?
	well that's' another story, but for your enjoyment it is posted at
	http://koan.team.net/	(w/apologies to Dr. Seuss)

-Bill

--__--__--

Message: 49
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] opinions requested
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 18:52:31 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> I'm taking small chunks out of the next few paychecks for the penny jar
> marked "rebuilt 8:1 unleaded head"...
>
Go ahead and do the 2.5 cam or better the ACR cam at the same time.  I am
very happy with the improvements.
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 50
From: "Alex Maiolo" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Ooops > seat repair
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 17:04:17 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> I have a smal tear (darned rivets in Carhart clothing) on a vinyl seat
> cover.....What's a good way to repair?

Dude....duct tape...
Did you really need to ask?

No, seriously, you can go to any shop that sells cloth - a sewing store
thing.
They will have black vinyl for about $3-4 a yard. Since a "yard" is doubled
over, that will give you 6 feet, more than enough for two.
Lay over the seat base, fold hospital corners (ask yer mom...) and use a
staple gun.
Robert's your dad's brother.

Do them all if you think the material is weak and rotten. I wear Carharts
and the LL Bean knock offs of Carharts and I haven't ripped any seats yet.
Probably would have happened if you drove around in flannel jammies.

I saw my old IIA last week and the "recovered" seats are still in tact. This
after it was rolled twice, fixed, and has been exposed to the elements due
to its ratty soft top for about four years now.

For more on upholstry stuff, ask a guy on this list named Rick (RykRover).
He knows a few things about upholstry...

Alex Maiolo
Chapel Hill NC

--__--__--

Message: 51
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 20:06:46 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Interstate Motor Speedway
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Wolf Creek Pass is much further west than you would need to go, although
I agree that it is a nice drive, and there are excelent hot springs on
the far side in Pagosa Springs. U.S. 50 would put you in Pueblo, where
it isn't too bad of a drive to Colo Spgs. Better than going through
Denver with the traffic, especially since they started working on I-25
up there.

Smokey Briggs wrote:
> 
> Hank,
> 
> i've driven U.S. 50 from East Missouri to Fallon, Nevada before. It was
> about 15 years ago but I had similar desires as to the Interstate speedway.
> It was a fun drive through Missouri and Colorado was big fun. I don't have a
> map handy but seems like there was a Wolf Creek Pass in Co. that tested the
> gearing on my 68 Chevy pu. Very scenic. Seems like it roughly parallels
> I-70.
> 
> Smokey Briggs
> Pecos, Texas
> 
> > From: "Hank Rutherford" <[email-masked]>
> > Reply-To: [email-masked]
> > Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 20:06:41 -0400
> > To: <[email-masked]>
> > Subject: [lro] Interstate Motor Speedway
> >
> >
> > I am planning an east to west trip in a SerIIa swb, traveling from Asheville
> > North Carolina to Colorado Springs, leaving the second week of November. I'd
> > like to roughly follow Interstate 70 but would prefer staying off the
> > Interstate Motor Speedway at least half the time, running parallel scenic
> > routes. Has anyone out there got advice or experiences they could share?
> >
> > Hank Rutherford
> > SerIIa "Gromit"
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 52
From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 22:10:20 EDT
To: [email-masked], [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] latest event
Reply-To: [email-masked]

HI All,
Apologies for the x-post,

You want to drive off-highway?  Like a little challenge, but don't want to 
rip the bumper off through every dip? We now have the most challenging trials 
course in the US.  Next event is Nov 3rd, sign up now.  This will be a real 
test of your driving ability and just the sort of thing you crave, an all day 
drive off-highway.  This is like no course you have driven on before.  Who 
needs Moab?  We got it here.  Lets see what you and your Rover can do.  
Definitely a great day out.

Post to [email-masked] for a signup form.  Attendance list closes this week.

Tom Bache
Avondale, PA

--__--__--

Message: 53
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 20:25:21 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] I ask again for info from the North American Land
  Rover Trek...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

You would probably have to ask Land Rover North America.

Mattias Bostrvm wrote:
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> I would like to know if anyone have or know where I could get a video from
> the "Land Rover Trek 2000". It was an article about it in the february issue
> of LRO this year. I would have to get it in the European standard since I
> live in Sweden. I could also have use of pictures from the same event
> especially from the test drive course.
> 
> Thank you all in advance.
> The drinks would be on me for some time if I get a hold of this...
> 
> Best Regards
> Mattias Bostrom
> S.L.R.K #1329
> Land Rover 90" -98 Tdi CSW
> BMW 528i Touring
> home page: http://user.tninet.se/~vwu213j
> e-mail: [email-masked]
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 54
From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 22:57:28 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] Ooops > seat repair
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 10/22/01 7:23:54 AM Pacific Daylight Time, [email-masked] 
writes:

> I have a smal tear (darned rivets in Carhart clothing) on a vinyl seat
> cover.....What's a good way to repair?
> 

Find a piece of vinyl similar in physical respects, and glue it on the back 
side with shoe goo. as it sets, do not apply force in the normal directions, 
in fact if you can anti-stretch it you'll do better. Example, loosen the 
vinyl as completely as possible.

Alternatively, slide a piece of 2 by 12 doug fir behind it, and staple it a 
bunch with 2" staples. Peen the ends of the staples over when done. Sit thee 
not upon the ends of the staples.  

I've seen both, liked the shoe goo better.
Zack

--__--__--

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