Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #129 - 28 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 03:01:09 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: My "new" series III (apsilon)
   2. Photos of my "new" series III (apsilon)
   3. Re: My "new" series III (apsilon)
   4. Re: Rich running Zenith (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
   5. Re: My "new" series III (John Cranfield)
   6. Re: 109" brake shoe springs (John Cranfield)
   7. Re: Rich running Zenith (John Cranfield)
   8. Re: Photos of my "new" series III (Jim Hall)
   9. Re: Photos of my "new" series III (Keith Tanner)
  10. Re: My "new" series III (Paul Quin)
  11. Re: Photos of my "new" series III (Frank Elson)
  12. Re: My "new" series III (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  13. Re: 109" brake shoe springs (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  14. British Pacific's new series catalogue (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  15. Re: 109 brake drums (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  16. Re: Photos of my "new" series III ([email-masked])
  17. RE: The best way to change hub seals (Sergi, Michael)
  18. Re: My "new" series III (Alex Maiolo)
  19. Weber 32/36 DGV (M. Tompkins)
  20. Re: Need Advise New Member (Alex Maiolo)
  21. Re: My "new" series III (Bill Fishel)
  22. Re: Weber 32/36 DGV (John Cranfield)
  23. Re: heater blower alternatives ? (Jean-Leon Morin)
  24. Re: Land Rover Identity (Frank Elson)
  25. RE: My "new" Series III (Part I --LONG) (Andre Shoumatoff)
  26. RE: My 'new' Series III (Part III -- LONG) (Andre Shoumatoff)
  27. RE: My 'new' Series III (Part II --LONG) (Andre Shoumatoff)
  28. Re: My "new" series III (Paul Oxley)

--__--__--

Message: 1
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 07:43:04 +1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> If you did not notice the stock fuel pump has a priming lever that can be
> used to manually pump fuel up to the carb.  Disconnecting the fuel line
> at the carb and making a couple of manual pumps is a way to make sure you
> are getting fuel to the carb.  When you make a manual pump with the hose
> disconnected there should be a good strong squirt of fuel.

With the line disconnected from the carby we got no fuel when using the
priming lever. I believe that's because at that stage the line from the pump
to the carby was dry and we weren't getting anything from the tank. If the
pump needs a rebuild is this a possible scenario or does it point more to
the lines/pickup from the tank to the pump?

Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions, they're much appreciated.
Matt.

--__--__--

Message: 2
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO List" <[email-masked]>, "LRO AU List" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 13:24:19 +1000
Subject: [lro] Photos of my "new" series III
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi all,

As promised I grabbed a few quick pics of my series III 88 and put them up
on the net. I'll apologise in advance for the size of some of the pics, I
don't have the time to do enough post work at the moment.

You can find them at http://www.apsilon.com/matt/lr/index.htm

The last photo shows something on the fuel line just before the carby that I
don't recognise. If anyone can identify it I'd apprecaite it.

Regards,
Matt.

--__--__--

Message: 3
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 13:17:50 +1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>     Okay, this raises an interesting question.  16  gallon tank in an 88"?

I should point out that I made that statement based on a catalogue that
shows a 16 gallon side tank under a heading "tanks to suit all series II,
IIA and III" It's possible it only fits a 109 or something but if that's the
case it's misleading. I'll look into it and get back to you.

Matt.

--__--__--

Message: 4
Subject: Re: [lro] Rich running Zenith
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 09:09:59 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

JL,

I like the Weber - it's not a bad carburettor, though it's a bit small for
the best power. I've got one now on Miss Jessica - works fine for me, does
what it needs tro do and returns decent power and economy.

I also have 2 Zeniths up on the shelf I've never been able to get to work
right....

                        ajr

--__--__--

Message: 5
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 08:13:33 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III
Reply-To: [email-masked]

It you got no fuel from the tank with the hand pump the fuel pump is
shot or you have an air leak in the line. Most likely the pump is the
problem.
John and Muddy

apsilon wrote:
> 
> > If you did not notice the stock fuel pump has a priming lever that can be
> > used to manually pump fuel up to the carb.  Disconnecting the fuel line
> > at the carb and making a couple of manual pumps is a way to make sure you
> > are getting fuel to the carb.  When you make a manual pump with the hose
> > disconnected there should be a good strong squirt of fuel.
> 
> With the line disconnected from the carby we got no fuel when using the
> priming lever. I believe that's because at that stage the line from the pump
> to the carby was dry and we weren't getting anything from the tank. If the
> pump needs a rebuild is this a possible scenario or does it point more to
> the lines/pickup from the tank to the pump?
> 
> Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions, they're much appreciated.
> Matt.
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 6
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 08:10:29 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] 109" brake shoe springs
Reply-To: [email-masked]

You very likely have a siezed brake cylinder on the shoe that show least
wear. There are 2 springs on the 109 brakes as each shoe has an
adjuster.
The siezing of one cylinder is common on 109s that get used
intermittantly.
With both cyliners working on both the front brakes the brakes actually
work very well assuming they are fully adjusted all round.
John and Muddy

Kirk Hillman wrote:
> 
> I was just looking at the BP web site for brake parts.  Are 2.25 109's only
> supposed to have one spring on the front shoes?  I took mine apart today and
> they had two.  Would that be why one shoe on each side seems to have worn so
> much faster than the other?
> 
> Kirk
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 7
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 14:16:32 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Rich running Zenith
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Sounds like the dreaded Zenith warp.
It is a fairly easy fix.
Remove the carb and separate the up and lower halves.
Remove the bits attached to the inside of the upper half.
Find a piece of flat glass and a sheet of 200 grit emery cloth.
Lay the cloth on the glass and place the first half on it. With a smooth
motion sand the joining face until you see that all of the surface has
been touched by the emery cloth. 
Repeat for the other half.
Assemble in the reverse order. Remembering to set the float level
correctly.
John and Muddy

Jean-Leon Morin wrote:
> 
> Hello folks,
> 
> A local lad who has purchased a IIA has hired me to carry out some repairs.
> Everything seems to be going along very well, but there is one problem which
> I am unfamiliar with -I've never had a Zenith on my truck, so I'm unsure
> about how to proceed.
> 
> The vehicle runs great, but the carburetion is extremely rich. With choke
> off, the tailpipe spews black smoke, which gets worse upto about 2000 -3000
> rpms, and after that it seems to clean up quite a bit, and run much better.
> 
> The carburetor looks new, and the absence of any debris on it or corrosion
> seems to indicate it is a new carburetor. It has new body tags, and it's
> clean as a whistle. However, this particular rover has sat for a few years,
> and I am wondering if it is the dreaded "Zenith warp" setting it.
> 
> What are the symptoms of "Zenith warp" ?
> 
> Looking at the haynes manual, there is a "volume control" screw. I have
> adjusted this all the way in, and at no point does the screw seem to seat. I
> was using sewing machine tools for this, so I don't believe I overtightened
> it at all. It does not seem to affect things at all.
> 
> There is an idle jet, but I don't see any idle mixture control - Is this
> correct?
> 
> Any insight on what might be wrong with this picture? I have proceeded with
> what I think it might have been, some junk in the carb, improper choke
> adjustment, etc. I am puzzled by this, and before I replace the carburetor
> with something else...
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> J-L

--__--__--

Message: 8
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 07:47:27 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Photos of my "new" series III
Reply-To: [email-masked]

looks like a valve probably. I'd take it off as it could be related to
your no fuel problems. 

apsilon wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> As promised I grabbed a few quick pics of my series III 88 and put them up
> on the net. I'll apologise in advance for the size of some of the pics, I
> don't have the time to do enough post work at the moment.
> 
> You can find them at http://www.apsilon.com/matt/lr/index.htm
> 
> The last photo shows something on the fuel line just before the carby that I
> don't recognise. If anyone can identify it I'd apprecaite it.
> 
> Regards,
> Matt.
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 9
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 08:36:09 -0400
To: [email-masked], "LRO List" <[email-masked]>,
  <[email-masked]>
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Photos of my "new" series III
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Wow, that bull bar looks like it's off a road train!

Keith

At 23:24 20-10-01, apsilon wrote:

>Hi all,
>
>As promised I grabbed a few quick pics of my series III 88 and put them up
>on the net. I'll apologise in advance for the size of some of the pics, I
>don't have the time to do enough post work at the moment.
>
>You can find them at http://www.apsilon.com/matt/lr/index.htm
>
>The last photo shows something on the fuel line just before the carby that I
>don't recognise. If anyone can identify it I'd apprecaite it.
>
>Regards,
>Matt.
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

--__--__--

Message: 10
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 07:29:39 -0700
From: Paul Quin <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

There was / is an optional fuel tank that installs under the left (drivers
in North America) seat in place of the tool / battery box to create a
switchable dual tank system

It is quite big, probably close to 16 gallons.

Paul in Victoria.

----- Original Message -----
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>

>
> >     Okay, this raises an interesting question.  16  gallon tank in an
88"?
>
> I should point out that I made that statement based on a catalogue that
> shows a 16 gallon side tank under a heading "tanks to suit all series II,
> IIA and III" It's possible it only fits a 109 or something but if that's
the
> case it's misleading. I'll look into it and get back to you.

--__--__--

Message: 11
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Photos of my "new" series III
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 16:09:28 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Matt writes: >>>The last photo shows something on the fuel line just before
the carby that I
don't recognise. If anyone can identify it I'd apprecaite it.<<<

can't identify it, sorry.
 Looks like a nice neat machine tho' - keep the bullbar if you drive in town
much - defensive driving rules!
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

--__--__--

Message: 12
Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 01 08:28:31 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>With the line disconnected from the carby we got no fuel when using the
>priming lever. I believe that's because at that stage the line from the pump
>to the carby was dry and we weren't getting anything from the tank. If the
>pump needs a rebuild is this a possible scenario or does it point more to
>the lines/pickup from the tank to the pump?

Usually when a pump goes it is a hole in the diaphram and it still pumps, 
just not enough volume.

I would pull the draw tube and look at the screen attached to the bottom. 
 You can always pull the sender unit and use a flash light to look at the 
inside bottom of the tank.

While at it it never hurts to disconnect the line at the fuel pump intake 
and run compressed air through the pick up fuel line.

The stock front fuel tank extends to almost the bottom of the frame and 
holds about 12 US gallons.  12-1/2 if you fill it up the tube to the 
screen.

The home made big front tanks that I have seen have a front section the 
height of the frame that extends under the front floor panels to the 
bulkhead crossmember and takes up all the space between the bottom of the 
frame and the floor board. The front fuel tank crossmember disapears and 
the bulkhead crossmember becomes the front tank mount.  As I remember, 
each front tank picks up about 4 or 5 additional US gallons of fuel.

If you want to balance your Land Rover's overall weight distribution 
better it is possible to add the rear fuel tank from a newish Jeep to the 
rear of an 88.

With a pair of custom front tanks and a rear Jeep tank it is quite 
possible to carry a very respectable amount of fuel without pulling a 
trailer or raising thecentre of gravity.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 13
Subject: Re: [lro] 109" brake shoe springs
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 01 08:45:00 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>I was just looking at the BP web site for brake parts.  Are 2.25 109's only
>supposed to have one spring on the front shoes?  I took mine apart today and
>they had two.  Would that be why one shoe on each side seems to have worn so
>much faster than the other?

Two are required, they both have the same part number.  I'm the person 
creating the new BP series catalogue.  I just added (2 req) right after 
the part number.  I'm glad you posted this question as I'm trying to make 
the new catalogue clear.

If one shoe wore out a lot faster than the other it could be that one 
cylinder is not working or not getting fluid.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 14
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 01 09:12:05 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: " mendo rec list" <[email-masked]>, "LRO list"
  <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] British Pacific's new series catalogue
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I'm in the process of creating an entirely new series catalogue for 
British Pacific to reflect changes in parts availability, make it 
internet compatible and add a bunch of new parts and off road equipment 
that British Pacific has added since the old catalogue was created.

DRAFT pages are periodically being uploaded to the British Pacific web 
site for people to view and use.  Contents of existing draft pages are 
subject to change each time I do an upload.

Pages are being rearranged so that graphics and the text relating to them 
appear on the same individually downloadable page.  Also many items are 
being regrouped.  I'm adding "Tech Tips"  and pictures for additional 
clarity.

Bottom line is that everything is draft and subject to change or to 
migrating a couple pages elsewhere in the catalogue.  If you see ANYTHING 
that seems ambiguous or wrong in the draft pages please e-mail me 
directly so I can correct or reword something to improve clarity.

Feel free to make any kind of comment you wish to make about the new 
structure or contents.  I'm writing this catalogue for both you and me to 
use.  It is important to me that the catalogue meet your needs as best as 
I can make it.

If you can not find a part you are looking for contact British Pacific 
([email-masked]) and ask them if they carry the part and cc me 
([email-masked]) just in case it is something I missed during my 
rearranging.

Thanks & take care

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 15
Subject: Re: [lro] 109 brake drums
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 01 09:24:42 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>I have also noticed on BP web page that there seems to be a change in drums
>from '71 on.  Is this to do with different sizes of wheel studs?  Are they
>otherwise interchangeable?

The Land Rover parts books do not say why they make a change.  They just 
provide different part numbers and most times the year of the change.  I 
think you are right though.  THey changed wheel studs at about the same 
time.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 16
From: <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Photos of my "new" series III
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 17:45:47 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

It's a solenoid valve that would have been used to switch off the petrol
supply when running on LPG. You don't need it.
Cheers,

Chaz
        http://freespace.virgin.net/chaz.mackenzie/home.htm
>
>As promised I grabbed a few quick pics of my series III 88 and put them up
>on the net. I'll apologise in advance for the size of some of the pics, I
>don't have the time to do enough post work at the moment.
>
>You can find them at http://www.apsilon.com/matt/lr/index.htm
>
>The last photo shows something on the fuel line just before the carby that
I
>don't recognise. If anyone can identify it I'd apprecaite it.
>
>Regards,
>Matt.

--__--__--

Message: 17
From: "Sergi, Michael" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] The best way to change hub seals
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 16:01:13 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I piece of PVC pipe and a hammer works great also.

Mike

--__--__--

Message: 18
From: "Alex Maiolo" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 19:24:13 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Does anyone EVER buy a Land Rover and have it run fine on it's first day
home?
What do we do with new (used) cars that makes them konk out on day one?
Matt's lucky, I usually don't even make it home!

Ah yes, and the old "add fuel to it and hope it starts" trick. Done that
too. It didn't work for me either : (
Good diagnosis on the fuel system though!

I'll tell you, whenever I buy a Series truck, I just got right out and buy a
new fuel filter, lines, clamps, and usually a new cap, rotor, points, wires,
plugs and coil if they even look *slightly* suspicious. It's $150 out of
pocket from the get go, but I just budget for it, and that eliminates about
75% of what will leave you on the side of the road.

Welcome aboard Matt!

Alex Maiolo
Chapel Hill NC

----- Original Message -----
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>; <[email-masked]>
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2001 6:02 AM
Subject: [lro] My "new" series III

>
> Well I picked up my '75 series III 88 this morning. My car for the past 7
> years has been a turbo MX-5 Miata so this is a little different to say the
> least.
>
> The day went something like this:
>
> 9.30ish pay the outstanding balance and drive away.
> 10ish I'm halfway home when it occurs to me I didn't check the fuel. A
quick
> glance shows the needle well into E territory. The first place I pull into
> only has one regular pump and of course it's out of order. Wasn't long
> before I found a Shell and was able to put AUD$10 in (Shell is my most
hated
> of fuel brands).
> 11ish I arrive home, all is well. I take the family for a quick spin
around
> the block. They confirm my belief that they think I'm a little crazy for
> buying this.
> 1300ish I drop by a friends and drive with him to another friends.
> 1330ish Now with 2 friends on board we set off around the block. We make
it
> out of the street and the engine dies up hill and won't start.
>
> Hmm. 4 hours and my first break down. This is fun. My first thought was
that
> the tank was dry as the fuel gauge was again reading E. I wasn't expecting
> great economy but that can't be right. oh well. Walk back to friend no 2s
> house and we're off to the petrol station. He only had a 5 litre can but I
> thought that'd be enough to get it started and to the station so I can fil
> up completely. So we get back empty the fuel in and it still won't start.
OK
> so it's a bit more serious. Fortunately the dad of friend number 2 was
close
> buy and a quick call had him on the scene (he used to own a series II).
>
> Maybe 5 litres isn't enough if it'd been run completely dry we thought so
> off to his house to pick up a 5 gallon jerry can and another stop for
fuel.
> We emptied two thirds into the tank before it over flowed. Damn. Obviously
> wasn't empty.
>
> 1530ish we finally get it to start. To be honest we still don't know
exactly
> what the problem was which bothers me even more. It was definietly a fuel
> problem as no fuel was making it to the carby. We pulled the lines at the
> tank and with the help of an air pump confirmed that they weren't blocked
> (although some clamps are missing in places which helps explain the fuel
> smell). So we reconnect the line to the tank and try turning it over which
> results in fuel flowing to the filter just before the carby which wasn't
> happening before. Reconnect everything and it starts. Maybe there was a
> small blockage that was blown out when we pressurised the line? If anyone
> has any suggestions as to what else it could've been I'm willing to
listen.
>
> So I guess that's my initiation to the world of old Land Rovers :) The
good
> side to this story is that I'm now a little more familiar with my new
ride,
> I found a few small problems that need attention and my friends dad gave
me
> the ancient jerry can (which I actually insisted on paying something for).
> It's stamped 1976 and looks it. As it's almost as old as the truck I think
> it's a good match.
>
> So how'd you spend you day?
>
> Matt.
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 19
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 19:20:52 -0400
From: "M. Tompkins" <[email-masked]>
Organization: M&M Stained Glass
To: Land Rover Owners <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Weber 32/36 DGV
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I have the Land Rover 2.5L 4cyl in my 109 SW, now
a hybrid coiler, and considering the Weber 32/36 DGV
carburetor.  So, I have a few questions.
Has anyone done this and can give me some advice?
Any info on what size jets,  standard or other. I run
at or near sea level nearly all the time.
I don't think I need to swap inlet manifolds but have
heard others put on a Pierce. Any reason why and
and sources for this manifold?
Should I move off the oil bath filter and go with the
K&N setup?
Anything I am overlooking or missing?

Thanks,
Mike
'66 Hybrid Coiler 109" SW
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Trails/6623/

--__--__--

Message: 20
From: "Alex Maiolo" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Need Advise New Member
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 19:36:58 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> My wife's daily drive has been a 63 MK 2 Jag for over 10
> years. She has an itch for an SUV. We both like Land
> Rovers. There is one in our town, a 109 Series 3 with
> Tropical roof, she has fallen in love.

I think *I've* fallen in love...

>I have been to the
> Rover Web site, very helpful, downloaded the what to look
> for before buying. No frame rust basically looks better
> than most of the british cars I work on...

Sounds great. See if anyone on this list is near you. They may help you
check it out.

> Questions
> 1. How hard and/or expensive (parts) to convert to LHD

It's more trouble than it's worth. If you want a LHD, find one and buy it.
The local one has inspired you to get a LR, but that doesn't mean you have
to get *that* one. You'll need expensive parts and will take some time even
*if* the old steering stuff unbolts easily (fat chance).

> 2. What about converting to automatic.

What on earth would you do that for?
Are you going to add AC, power steering, heated seats and dual sunroofs too?
I guess anything can be done, but if you make this truck automatic you're
going to drop wa-a-a-a-y too much money into this thing.
Buy a 1997 Defender with a V8 and an auto tranny. It will cost you $25-30k,
which is less than you'll have into the Series truck if you do all of the
stuff you're talking about.

> We have a shop capable of above, just need advise, how
> common and where to go for parts..

All of the following places can be found on the 'net:
DAP
Thatched Roof Garage
British Pacific
Wise Owl
Atlantic British
Rovers North

Rovers Down South has mostly Defender stuff, but if you're thinking about
doing the above mods, you're on your way to having a Defender anyway, and he
may have some parts that could make the project go.

Good luck,
Alex Maiolo
Chapel Hill NC

>
> Any and all help is needed.
>
> Thanks in advance
> Phil
> --
> Phillip Babcock
> The Dyno Shop, Inc
> Air Fuel Ratio Meters, Laser Alignment Tools, Cool
> Suits, Brake Bleeders, Classic Car Auto Restoration
> http://www.thedynoshop.net
> mailto:[email-masked]
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 21
From: "Bill Fishel" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 20:23:54 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Well, Alex
I bought my first Rover, a 65 IIA 88 for $300. I used it as a daily driver for 2 years before I had to do anything to it. The brakes faded and I had to replace them after 1 year but I would consider that acceptable. The frame finally got to the point were I felt it was unsafe and the engine blew a head gasket between #3 and #4 cylinders. I rebuilt the engine and am using it in my 74 SIII 88.

Bill Fishel

----------
> From: Alex Maiolo <[email-masked]>
> 
> Does anyone EVER buy a Land Rover and have it run fine on it's first day
> home?
> What do we do with new (used) cars that makes them konk out on day one?
> Matt's lucky, I usually don't even make it home!

--__--__--

Message: 22
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 21:31:56 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Weber 32/36 DGV
Reply-To: [email-masked]

To use the 32/36 DGV you will need to change the intake manifold as this
carb is a two barrel design and the base will not bolt to the existing
manifold.
They work well when installed correctly.
John and Muddy

"M. Tompkins" wrote:
> 
> I have the Land Rover 2.5L 4cyl in my 109 SW, now
> a hybrid coiler, and considering the Weber 32/36 DGV
> carburetor.  So, I have a few questions.
> Has anyone done this and can give me some advice?
> Any info on what size jets,  standard or other. I run
> at or near sea level nearly all the time.
> I don't think I need to swap inlet manifolds but have
> heard others put on a Pierce. Any reason why and
> and sources for this manifold?
> Should I move off the oil bath filter and go with the
> K&N setup?
> Anything I am overlooking or missing?
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike
> '66 Hybrid Coiler 109" SW
> http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Trails/6623/
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 23
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] heater blower alternatives ?
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 22:12:16 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hello listers,

Is there a Landie owner named Jeff Meyer sitting in one of the corners
somewhere?

Does anyone have his E mail?

thanks

J-L

--__--__--

Message: 24
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Land Rover Identity
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 22:36:49 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Mark and Trevor,
 do you know the original British Reg number? If so I can tell you how to
get a build certificate...
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

--__--__--

Message: 25
From: "Andre Shoumatoff" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 00:03:51 -0400
Subject: [lro] RE: My "new" Series III (Part I --LONG)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Matt wrote:
>So I guess that's my initiation to the world of old Land Rovers :)

I can tell you a little stroy of my initiation.  Ironically enough I was on
a lacrosse team and in a fraternity (both which I quit, though I still play
lacrosse) that hazed pretty hard.  My Land Rover initiation was definetely a
hard one as well.

So, I concoct this hairbrain scheme to sell my only working vehicle, my
trust old and very dependible (though that took some work, see website if
interested) Volvo wagon, and buy a Series III that only runs in 1st and
reverse, and has been sitting for 6 years.  It had been changing owners for
a while because no one took the effort to replace or rebuild the tranny.  So
it ended up at an extremely low quality shop of a couple of late 20 year old
VW/Audi guys who turned a ratty old building into a "Euro" shop in their
early teens, and were still there despite poor business, a somewhat ratty
shop, and a bad location on a remote back road.  But it was definetely an
experience.

Anyways, I saw the ad for "Land Rover Series III, transmission needs
replacement, rusty frame, runs great.  $1800."  On a whim I call the guy and
basically get him down to the minimum on the phone of $1300.  I figure with
the trany replacement it will come to near $2000 which I can afford.  So on
my way home from school on one of the breaks (maybe Thanksgiving?) I drive a
little out of the way and stop to check out the truck.  No knowing anything
about Rovers, I instantly fall in love with it despite it having mildly
rusted foot wells, etc etc etc.  But it does have potential and I see a gem
where in reality somewhat of a rats nest sort of exists.

So, a few weeks later some college loans for housing and food come through.
Basically I've been working through the ranks much of my college career
slowely buying and selling mostly older vehicles.  Yesterday I bought my
most expensive one which I am extremely pleased with, a rare diesel Land
Cruiser with other nice perks from Canada which they never had in the
states.  It's in very nice and is by far the nicest car I've ever owned.  So
I suppose I could say I succeeded, after all these years, or at least I
could I feel like that right now.

Anyways, in reality at the time (and probably right now) I could never
afford a quality condition Series Rover (or any Rover for that matter).  If
I wanted one (and I really did -- for a while I thought all vehicles should
resemble Rovers to an), this would have to be it because I don't think I
could ever get one for this price.  So, I bit the bullet and went down there
and bought it.  First though, through the LRO I was able to find a very nice
condition used SIII gearbox/ t-case for only $350.  This list helped me out
exponentially in that fashion, in both ownership and pre-ownership.

--__--__--

Message: 26
From: "Andre Shoumatoff" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 00:05:18 -0400
Subject: [lro] RE: My 'new' Series III (Part III -- LONG)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

--__--__--

Message: 27
From: "Andre Shoumatoff" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 00:04:45 -0400
Subject: [lro] RE: My 'new' Series III (Part II --LONG)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

So I arrive late on a Friday evening, freezing cold, light blizzard.  By now
it's around January in upstate New York.  The fellow has offered to let me
use his shop which was very nice of him.  I was familiar with lifts, etc.
I'd also removed and replaced one tranny in my Volvo (see website for that
story too) which was it's own fiasco itself.  But I was willing to make this
effort and, yes, I really really wanted a series Rover.

I arrive to a ratty, faded red vehicle with worn rear springs, rusty and
ratty, litterally some mice nests in the engine compartment, the interior in
decent shape but a little smelly.  The vehicle is covered in snow and it is
actually blizzarding out.  However, we manage to get it started.  Turned out
he'd started it a few times but hadn't really driven it other than mild yard
driving.  So maybe it wasn't really running that well?  But anyways, too
late now and I'd already committed to this endevior.

So I spent the first evening with extrememly rusty bolts, getting the
seatbox and interior out.  When I finally came to the tranny and the frame
was actually in OK shape but not that good.  I think the highlight of the
evening was just sort of the tast of going through an old British vehicle.
I'd seen Rovers before, and even drove and old Series once, but it was all
new to me.  The signal switch (broken) was on the wrong side, as was the key
(or at least that's what I thought at the time).  Things were funky but I
loved it, and that's sort of why I loved the vehicle.  It had extreme
character.  The tranny was covered in grime and it was messy.  I began to
get the transmission out, making every effort to get it out but there are
some really rusty bolts and this was definetely the original 28 years old
tranny.  So I gave up for the evening.  I arrived at my mom's house, an hour
away, covered in grease, cold and stinky, around midnight.  The shop is in
sort of an old wooden and cynder block storage building turned into this
shop.  They use a broken old 4 wheeler winch hooked up to a battery with
plug in charger to open and close the garage door.   But you have to hold
the control switch a certain way which took at least 10 minutes to figure
out after they left me.  I am able to figure out the lift though, though it
is totally different than the only other one I'd used.  But it too, is a
trip, and you have to touch two wires to get it to go up and down.  But
anyways, it was a nice evening.

The next morning I get up and head out again, sort of like having a really
miserable job that you have to do, and you know it will be over soon, but
you just hate.  It was a freezing day and a particularly freezing day.  Dull
and dreary.  I arrive to the truck, half way apart, and begin to be
depressed.  Am I really, really expecting to drive this thing?

--__--__--

Message: 28
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 07:34:51 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III
Reply-To: [email-masked]

apsilon wrote:
> 
> >     Okay, this raises an interesting question.  16  gallon tank in an 88"?
> 
> I should point out that I made that statement based on a catalogue that
> shows a 16 gallon side tank under a heading "tanks to suit all series II,
> IIA and III" It's possible it only fits a 109 or something but if that's the
> case it's misleading. I'll look into it and get back to you.

You can even go to 20 gallons (~75l). The extended tank is L-shaped and
uses the space under the floorboards down to the level of the chassis
rails. The tank extends forward to and is supported by the front
firewall crossmember. I have used these tanks for years (filling through
a filler in the wing top). I fitted dual 75l tanks to a 109 about 2
months ago. One for water, the other fuel.

Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

--__--__--

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