Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #128 - 28 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 03:01:03 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Wheel stud threads (Paul Oxley)
   2. My "new" series III (apsilon)
   3. Re: My "new" series III ([email-masked])
   4. Re: My "new" series III (N Forbes)
   5. Re: Re: Spring over swap for a Series (John Cranfield)
   6. Re: My "new" series III (apsilon)
   7. Re: My "new" series III (apsilon)
   8. sighting (N Forbes)
   9. Rich running Zenith (Jean-Leon Morin)
  10. Re: Rich running Zenith (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  11. Re: My "new" series III (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  12. The best way to change hub seals ([email-masked])
  13. Re: LROI magazine ([email-masked])
  14. RE: Re: Spring over swap for a Series (Easton Trevor A)
  15. RE: parabolic reply (Easton Trevor A)
  16. Re: The best way to change hub seals (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  17. RE: Stock 88 tyre size & dia?? (C. Marin Faure)
  18. Out of town (C. Marin Faure)
  19. Need Advise New Member ([email-masked])
  20. Re: Re: Spring over swap for a Series (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  21. Re: Need Advise New Member ([email-masked])
  22. Re: My "new" series III (Kirk Hillman)
  23. 109" brake shoe springs (Kirk Hillman)
  24. 109 brake drums (Kirk Hillman)
  25. Re: My "new" series III (Jim Hall)
  26. Re: My "new" series III (Kirk Hillman)
  27. Re: Rich running Zenith (Jean-Leon Morin)
  28. Re: Stock 88 tyre size & dia?? (Jean-Leon Morin)

--__--__--

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 10:16:16 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Wheel stud threads
Reply-To: [email-masked]

William L Leacock wrote:
 
> Not so. 

Is so!

:-{)}

> The series 1, 2 and 2A wheel stud is 9/16" British Standard Fine
> (BSF) Thread as standard. Series 3 introduced the 16 m thread, the same
> as the Range Rover

Maybe in your part of the world, but in my part of the world the 16X1.5
studs started in the 2a. OTOH Land-Rover/British Leyland is/was famous
for mixing specs between models, so I guess it could be 9/16 BSF or
16X1.5 
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

--__--__--

Message: 2
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>, <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 20:02:10 +1000
Subject: [lro] My "new" series III
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Well I picked up my '75 series III 88 this morning. My car for the past 7
years has been a turbo MX-5 Miata so this is a little different to say the
least.

The day went something like this:

9.30ish pay the outstanding balance and drive away.
10ish I'm halfway home when it occurs to me I didn't check the fuel. A quick
glance shows the needle well into E territory. The first place I pull into
only has one regular pump and of course it's out of order. Wasn't long
before I found a Shell and was able to put AUD$10 in (Shell is my most hated
of fuel brands).
11ish I arrive home, all is well. I take the family for a quick spin around
the block. They confirm my belief that they think I'm a little crazy for
buying this.
1300ish I drop by a friends and drive with him to another friends.
1330ish Now with 2 friends on board we set off around the block. We make it
out of the street and the engine dies up hill and won't start.

Hmm. 4 hours and my first break down. This is fun. My first thought was that
the tank was dry as the fuel gauge was again reading E. I wasn't expecting
great economy but that can't be right. oh well. Walk back to friend no 2s
house and we're off to the petrol station. He only had a 5 litre can but I
thought that'd be enough to get it started and to the station so I can fil
up completely. So we get back empty the fuel in and it still won't start. OK
so it's a bit more serious. Fortunately the dad of friend number 2 was close
buy and a quick call had him on the scene (he used to own a series II).

Maybe 5 litres isn't enough if it'd been run completely dry we thought so
off to his house to pick up a 5 gallon jerry can and another stop for fuel.
We emptied two thirds into the tank before it over flowed. Damn. Obviously
wasn't empty.

1530ish we finally get it to start. To be honest we still don't know exactly
what the problem was which bothers me even more. It was definietly a fuel
problem as no fuel was making it to the carby. We pulled the lines at the
tank and with the help of an air pump confirmed that they weren't blocked
(although some clamps are missing in places which helps explain the fuel
smell). So we reconnect the line to the tank and try turning it over which
results in fuel flowing to the filter just before the carby which wasn't
happening before. Reconnect everything and it starts. Maybe there was a
small blockage that was blown out when we pressurised the line? If anyone
has any suggestions as to what else it could've been I'm willing to listen.

So I guess that's my initiation to the world of old Land Rovers :) The good
side to this story is that I'm now a little more familiar with my new ride,
I found a few small problems that need attention and my friends dad gave me
the ancient jerry can (which I actually insisted on paying something for).
It's stamped 1976 and looks it. As it's almost as old as the truck I think
it's a good match.

So how'd you spend you day?

Matt.

--__--__--

Message: 3
From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 08:02:35 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 10/20/2001 6:02:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

<<  So we reconnect the line to the tank and try turning it over which
 results in fuel flowing to the filter just before the carby which wasn't
 happening before. Reconnect everything and it starts. Maybe there was a
 small blockage that was blown out when we pressurised the line? >>

1. Could be crud in the tank blocking the pickup tube.
2.  Plugged up fuel filter (less likely)
3. weak fuel pump 

I'd bet on 1.  I'd drain out the tank, rinse with a bit of petrol, refill and 
see if the problem goes away.  If a lot of rusty stuff comes out, I'd be 
thinking about replacing the tank.

Nate

Nate

--__--__--

Message: 4
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 12:14:14 +0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Matt,
The fuel pump has a glass sediment bowl which could be full of junk. Or the 
pump may need a rebuild. Or the fuel pick-up tube in the fuel tank may be 
clogged. Check the sediment bowl first as that'll be the easiest.

How about some pictures?

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
--author unknown

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 5
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 09:38:03 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Spring over swap for a Series
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Peter Ogilvie wrote:
> the leaves are welded to each other at the ends and middle.  All the leaves
> in a parabolic spring resist side loads, not just the one, on stock springs.
> 
> Aloha
> Peter Ogilvie

They most certainly are NOT welded together or you would have a metal
bar not a spring.
John and Muddy 

--__--__--

Message: 6
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 22:47:48 +1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Matt,
> The fuel pump has a glass sediment bowl which could be full of junk. Or
the
> pump may need a rebuild. Or the fuel pick-up tube in the fuel tank may be
> clogged. Check the sediment bowl first as that'll be the easiest.

Niall,
No the sediment bowl is clean, should've mentioned that. I'm going to pull
the tank at some point shortly, wouldn't mind putting a 16 gallon one in
it's place. I'd also like to replace all of the fuel lines as it used to
have LPG in it and there's a few extra splices plus I've heard LPG doesn't
do nice things to these old lines.

> How about some pictures?

Pictures tomorrow, I was too busy driving and then fixing/swearing to get
around to it today :)

Thanks,
Matt.

--__--__--

Message: 7
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 22:45:39 +1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> 1. Could be crud in the tank blocking the pickup tube.
> 2.  Plugged up fuel filter (less likely)
> 3. weak fuel pump
>
>
> I'd bet on 1.  I'd drain out the tank, rinse with a bit of petrol, refill
and
> see if the problem goes away.  If a lot of rusty stuff comes out, I'd be
> thinking about replacing the tank.

Yeah Nate, I thought of a blocked pick up but I'm not sure. Fuel drained out
easily from the part of the line still on the tank unless it was held
upright. I'll drain the tank soon and check it out anyway. I plan on
replacing all filters and fluids in the next week or so. Until then I won't
be doing much driving anyway.

Thanks,
Matt

--__--__--

Message: 8
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 13:43:27 +0000
Subject: [lro] sighting
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Was just watching CNN. They were talking about the US special forces ground 
troop now in Afghanistan and they showed a US army training video of the 
troops deploying from a Helicopter and then driving a special 110 out of the 
helicopter. Cool!!

The commentator said it was a "modified version of the Land Rover". 
Obviously this well known secret is not considered classified any more.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
--author unknown

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 9
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 09:57:47 -0400
Subject: [lro] Rich running Zenith
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hello folks,

A local lad who has purchased a IIA has hired me to carry out some repairs.
Everything seems to be going along very well, but there is one problem which
I am unfamiliar with -I've never had a Zenith on my truck, so I'm unsure
about how to proceed.

The vehicle runs great, but the carburetion is extremely rich. With choke
off, the tailpipe spews black smoke, which gets worse upto about 2000 -3000
rpms, and after that it seems to clean up quite a bit, and run much better.

The carburetor looks new, and the absence of any debris on it or corrosion
seems to indicate it is a new carburetor. It has new body tags, and it's
clean as a whistle. However, this particular rover has sat for a few years,
and I am wondering if it is the dreaded "Zenith warp" setting it.

What are the symptoms of "Zenith warp" ?

Looking at the haynes manual, there is a "volume control" screw. I have
adjusted this all the way in, and at no point does the screw seem to seat. I
was using sewing machine tools for this, so I don't believe I overtightened
it at all. It does not seem to affect things at all.

There is an idle jet, but I don't see any idle mixture control - Is this
correct?

Any insight on what might be wrong with this picture? I have proceeded with
what I think it might have been, some junk in the carb, improper choke
adjustment, etc. I am puzzled by this, and before I replace the carburetor
with something else...

Thank you,

J-L

--__--__--

Message: 10
Subject: Re: [lro] Rich running Zenith
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 09:57:16 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Replace the carby - this is indeed a warped Zenith. The rich running is the
key - the top cover isn't seating right and there's all sorts of gas going
down spots it doesn't belong in.

If it's for someone else don't even think of messing with it - the hours
aren't worth the end result.

                                    ajr

--__--__--

Message: 11
Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 01 07:11:03 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>The fuel pump has a glass sediment bowl which could be full of junk. Or the 
>pump may need a rebuild. Or the fuel pick-up tube in the fuel tank may be 
>clogged. Check the sediment bowl first as that'll be the easiest.

Obtain a new sediment bowl seal first.  The rubber hardens over a fairly 
short time and they almost never reseal after being disturbed.  

It never hurts to have a spare new sediment bowl gasket and screen in 
your on board spares kit.

If you did not notice the stock fuel pump has a priming lever that can be 
used to manually pump fuel up to the carb.  Disconnecting the fuel line 
at the carb and making a couple of manual pumps is a way to make sure you 
are getting fuel to the carb.  When you make a manual pump with the hose 
disconnected there should be a good strong squirt of fuel.

If you manually pump up an empty carb you will feel resistance in the 
handle until the carb is at pressure then very little pressure.

If you have a fuel pressure gauge the pump pressure should be between 
around 2.5 pounds to 3.5 pounds pressure usually at or just under 3.  
These are high volume low pressure pumps.

They are very rebuildable should the pump diaphragm ever break.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 12
From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 10:13:33 EDT
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] The best way to change hub seals
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi all,

Two days ago, the parts came to do this job. So, this morning, I decided to 
do the job.  As most of you know, it works best to heat the new distance 
piece and slip it on the stub axle.  Well, not wanting to stand around and 
watch the oven heat up, I decided to make a bit of breakfast whilst it 
heated.  Finished breakfast, took out the distance piece and finished up the 
job!

Now if I could find a job that required the fridge, I could drink a beer 
whilst it cooled!

Nate

--__--__--

Message: 13
From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 14:03:25 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] LROI magazine
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

According to the editorial page, the new website for LROI magazine is 
www.lromagazine.com

Ian Kelly (Tuscany, Italy)
 
1970 Series IIA 88" (Los Angeles)

"what kind of bad geographical planning is this?"

--__--__--

Message: 14
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "'LRO list '" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Re: Spring over swap for a Series
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 12:08:45 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

-----Original Message-----

Coil springs have no lateral sway resistance and are an entirely 
different beastie.

Coils also have lateral stiffness depending on the coil dimensions this can
vary from quite a lot to actually becoming negative (ie unstable). This
variation is often factored into suspension design.

I believe a lot of people bought parabolics because they have a much 
softer rate, closer to passenger cars than trucks and can react to bumps

faster and absorb more energy.  

Parabolics absorb less energy which is why different dampers (shock
absorbers) are desirable. They are not necessarily softer but because of the
absence of interleaf friction and the more constant rate enable the
suspension to conform to surface irregularities better.
I doubt if a whole lot of people who purchased them gave a whole lot of 
thought to their low resistance to side twist forces.

--__--__--

Message: 15
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "'LRO list '" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] parabolic reply
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 12:01:17 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

 Teri-Ann wrote

The parabolic spring's low resistance to side forces can result in 
harmonics being reached under certain driving conditions. These
harmonics 
can increase side sway when reached and destabilize a vehicle. 

Which is why I think a panhard rod would be beneficial.

--__--__--

Message: 16
Subject: Re: [lro] The best way to change hub seals
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 01 08:30:12 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Two days ago, the parts came to do this job. So, this morning, I decided to 
>do the job.  As most of you know, it works best to heat the new distance 
>piece and slip it on the stub axle.  Well, not wanting to stand around and 
>watch the oven heat up, I decided to make a bit of breakfast whilst it 
>heated.  Finished breakfast, took out the distance piece and finished up the 
>job!
>
>Now if I could find a job that required the fridge, I could drink a beer 
>whilst it cooled!

Sounds good.  You could have popped the stub axle in the freezer the 
night before to let it contract.

You would get max clearance with a frozen stub axle and a nice piping hot 
seal race...ready to serve.

Of course as I'm sure you know the stub axle must be absolutely clean and 
free of anything the race might catch on.  And a very light coating of a 
low viscosity oil on the stub axle can help speed the race on it's way to 
the bottom.

It's a recipe I have been embelishing off and on over the last 24 years.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 17
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 10:35:40 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: "C. Marin Faure" <[email-masked]>
Cc: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] RE: Stock 88 tyre size & dia??
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 14:35:17 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Stock 88 tyre size & dia??
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>H78-15 was the size found on the last of the 88s around here.

>>TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
 >> Can someone please get back to me with the stock tyre size for a US spec
>> 88 and the diameter of the tyre.

Believe it or not, I still have one of the tires that came with my new
US-spec Series III-88 in 1973.  I've kept it because it's fairly small, and
so is an ideal size for the bonnet spare tire mount.  It's a Goodyear, made
in the UK, and the size is 7.10 X 15.  This tire has always been my spare,
and has only been run on the vehicle twice.  It even still has the little
"spikey" things left over from manufacture.  So it has virtually no wear on
the tread.  The measured diameter is 27.5 inches.  The vehicle is a Series
III Model 88 Hardtop Deluxe, which was the only model imported to the US in
1973.  Hope this is the info you are after.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

--__--__--

Message: 18
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 10:47:58 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: "C. Marin Faure" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Out of town
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I'm off to Europe today for a couple of weeks, so you won't have to endure
my long-winded posts for a bit.  Two of the best things about the trip is
I'll get to have gammon and Guiness in the pubs, and I'll get to drive my
D130 crew cab for a few days.  I only get to use it a few times a year, but
each time I end up wishing there was some way I could smuggle it back into
the US to replace my Ford F-250.  Well, another twenty years or so and I
guess I'll be able to do it.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

--__--__--

Message: 19
From: [email-masked]
To: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 22:38:42 +0000
Subject: [lro] Need Advise New Member
Reply-To: [email-masked]

My wife's daily drive has been a 63 MK 2 Jag for over 10 
years. She has an itch for an SUV. We both like Land 
Rovers. There is one in our town, a 109 Series 3 with 
Tropical roof, she has fallen in love. I have been to the 
Rover Web site, very helpful, downloaded the what to look 
for before buying. No frame rust basically looks better 
than most of the british cars I work on...

Questions
1. How hard and/or expensive (parts) to convert to LHD
2. What about converting to automatic.
We have a shop capable of above, just need advise, how 
common and where to go for parts..

Any and all help is needed.

Thanks in advance
Phil
--
	Phillip Babcock
The Dyno Shop, Inc
Air Fuel Ratio Meters, Laser Alignment Tools, Cool 
Suits, Brake Bleeders, Classic Car Auto Restoration 
http://www.thedynoshop.net
mailto:[email-masked]		

--__--__--

Message: 20
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Spring over swap for a Series
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 01 16:00:55 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>The stock springs are only anchored side to side by that silly bolt in the 
>middle and one leaf, THAT'S ONLY ONE LEAF, resisting side loads.

I had to go out and look at my Land Rover springs before writing this 
reply to assure that I got it right.

The top two leaves encircle the end bushings and the third one down stops 
along the bottom just under the spring bushing.  The fourth springs is 
about an inch'ish shorter.

So at the bushing there are not one, not two but three leaves sandwiched 
together. Both front and rear under my OEM springs.

>  All the 
>other leaves are anchored at the center but, except for the two relatively 
>ineffective straps have no restraint for side loads.

Umm they are very tightly sandwiched together by the shape of the springs 
and the weight of the vehicle.  There is some sliding movement possible 
between the leaves but they have a very high resistance to torsional 
rotation.  Remember that tightly sandwiched together leaves basically act 
as a single block of steel to torsional forces.

>Parabolics are not only bent to a different curve (parabola vs ellipse)but 
>the leaves are welded to each other at the ends and middle.

Really?  What brand do you have?

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 21
From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 19:39:53 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] Need Advise New Member
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 10/20/2001 6:45:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

<< 1. How hard and/or expensive (parts) to convert to LHD
 2. What about converting to automatic. >>

1.  Lots of fiddly little pieces to do this (new steering box, brackets, 
accelerator linkage, maybe swivel arm--can't remember)  But I'm not sure why 
you'd want to.  RHD is easier to work on and the only drawback is poor 
visibility on passing on a 2 lane road (like that happens very often).  To 
me, seems like a LOT of work for little gain--most postal carriers use RHD 
with very little difficulty.

2.  It may be easier with a 109, basically, you've got to find one that will 
mate up to the flywheel housing and has a transferbox on the RH side.  
Additionally, the 2.25 L engine is pretty anemic for running an automatic.  
In an 88, the extra length of many autoboxes makes the rear propshaft awfully 
short.

Seems to me, switching to a GM engine/tranny combo might allow a cleaner 
switch to automatic with better power.  If I could find an inexpensive 109 
(been trying for a couple years), I would probably go with the Rob Davis 
engine (think he's calling it the "Iron Prince") and GM auto box.

Nate

--__--__--

Message: 22
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 07:39:11 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

    Okay, this raises an interesting question.  16  gallon tank in an 88"?
I would be interested anyhow, but Jim and I have been talking offlist about
his accessor spring hangers and I couldn't for the life of me figure out how
he got them to fit.  I have a tank under each seat which almost touch the
frame rails as well as the bodywork.  I would say there is only about 1"
total clearance there.  Also, my tanks hang down enough that the stock
spring hangers are only exposed by a couple of inches.  It's about the same
amount as the diameter of the spring bushing including the leaf that wraps
around it.
    Am I making any sense at all?  Can anyone confirm/deny that I have
normal tanks.  I can't actually tell you how much each holds because I have
never filled it up at a gas station before (we have bulk tanks on the farm).

Thanks,
Kirk

NB-what are the dimensions of a normal tank?  If nobody responds I think I
just might measure my tanks and calculate the rough volume.

----- Original Message -----
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2001 6:47 AM
Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III

>
> > Matt,
> > The fuel pump has a glass sediment bowl which could be full of junk. Or
> the
> > pump may need a rebuild. Or the fuel pick-up tube in the fuel tank may
be
> > clogged. Check the sediment bowl first as that'll be the easiest.
>
> Niall,
> No the sediment bowl is clean, should've mentioned that. I'm going to pull
> the tank at some point shortly, wouldn't mind putting a 16 gallon one in
> it's place. I'd also like to replace all of the fuel lines as it used to
> have LPG in it and there's a few extra splices plus I've heard LPG doesn't
> do nice things to these old lines.
>
> >
> > How about some pictures?
>
> Pictures tomorrow, I was too busy driving and then fixing/swearing to get
> around to it today :)
>
> Thanks,
> Matt.
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 23
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 18:21:24 -0600
Subject: [lro] 109" brake shoe springs
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I was just looking at the BP web site for brake parts.  Are 2.25 109's only
supposed to have one spring on the front shoes?  I took mine apart today and
they had two.  Would that be why one shoe on each side seems to have worn so
much faster than the other?

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 24
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 18:54:41 -0600
Subject: [lro] 109 brake drums
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I have also noticed on BP web page that there seems to be a change in drums
from '71 on.  Is this to do with different sizes of wheel studs?  Are they
otherwise interchangeable?

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 25
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 21:55:50 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III
Reply-To: [email-masked]

My friend had an aftermarket tant that had much more rounded corners
than the stock tank, and it hung down further. In fact he had trouble 
getting the spring hanger bolt out as it needed to come out the gas tank
side. That could be what you have on your one side. I may be able to 
send some pics tomorrow. I have been working late lately so it has been
too dark to take any meaningful pictures.

Kirk Hillman wrote:
> 
>     Okay, this raises an interesting question.  16  gallon tank in an 88"?
> I would be interested anyhow, but Jim and I have been talking offlist about
> his accessor spring hangers and I couldn't for the life of me figure out how
> he got them to fit.  I have a tank under each seat which almost touch the
> frame rails as well as the bodywork.  I would say there is only about 1"
> total clearance there.  Also, my tanks hang down enough that the stock
> spring hangers are only exposed by a couple of inches.  It's about the same
> amount as the diameter of the spring bushing including the leaf that wraps
> around it.
>     Am I making any sense at all?  Can anyone confirm/deny that I have
> normal tanks.  I can't actually tell you how much each holds because I have
> never filled it up at a gas station before (we have bulk tanks on the farm).
> 
> Thanks,
> Kirk
> 
> NB-what are the dimensions of a normal tank?  If nobody responds I think I
> just might measure my tanks and calculate the rough volume.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
> To: <[email-masked]>
> Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2001 6:47 AM
> Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III
> 
> >
> > > Matt,
> > > The fuel pump has a glass sediment bowl which could be full of junk. Or
> > the
> > > pump may need a rebuild. Or the fuel pick-up tube in the fuel tank may
> be
> > > clogged. Check the sediment bowl first as that'll be the easiest.
> >
> > Niall,
> > No the sediment bowl is clean, should've mentioned that. I'm going to pull
> > the tank at some point shortly, wouldn't mind putting a 16 gallon one in
> > it's place. I'd also like to replace all of the fuel lines as it used to
> > have LPG in it and there's a few extra splices plus I've heard LPG doesn't
> > do nice things to these old lines.
> >
> > >
> > > How about some pictures?
> >
> > Pictures tomorrow, I was too busy driving and then fixing/swearing to get
> > around to it today :)
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Matt.
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 26
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] My "new" series III
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 22:37:23 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Jim,
    Thanks.  I would appreciate the pics, but if you have been working late
for a while don't worry about it.  It's not like I need these things
tomorrow.  The LR is on stands with no wheels or brakes right now anyhow.
;-)

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 27
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Rich running Zenith
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 14:21:44 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Thanks Al.

Funny, the carb is only about three years old.

What's the list's consensus on a Weber? The owner of the truck hasn't a clue
on the mechanical aspects of rover ownership, he will have to learn, but I'd
rather he learn with easy things than continually fiddling with a
carburetor...

J-L

----- Original Message -----
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2001 9:57 AM
Subject: Re: [lro] Rich running Zenith

>
> Replace the carby - this is indeed a warped Zenith. The rich running is
the
> key - the top cover isn't seating right and there's all sorts of gas going
> down spots it doesn't belong in.
>
> If it's for someone else don't even think of messing with it - the hours
> aren't worth the end result.
>
>                                     ajr
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 28
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Stock 88 tyre size & dia??
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 14:38:33 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Just to add a little more confusion the diameter of tires with these
> sizes varied with the manfacturer.
> Ever stood tires from old Land Rovers side by side? I have seen as much
> as 2 inch height difference between to brands of 750x16 tires.
> John and Muddy
>
Good point - My x-MOD goodyear Xtra Grips in 750X16 size are almost 3"
smaller in diameter than my new set of 750X16. I can't imagine the havoc
wreaked when these were used in conjunction with another, bigger set of
tires - in the case of two on the front, and two on the rear. That could
have done some serious damage to a halfshaft....

J-L

--__--__--

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