Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #126 - 11 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 03:04:17 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. 109 Brake question (backing plate) (JoeSmo)
   2. Re: Starter removal (Faure, Marin)
   3. Re: Flat Towing (Faure, Marin)
   4. parabolic reply (joe mulqueen)
   5. Re: parabolic reply (Jeff Berg)
   6. Re: Re: A rover 'Jones' (Hope Peter)
   7. OT? Old Rover Binker for sale... (jDolan)
   8. Re: OT? Old Rover Binker for sale... (Richard Joltes)
   9. Re: OT? Old Rover Binker for sale... (Keith Tanner)
  10. Re: wheel stud thread size (Paul Oxley)
  11. towing a rover (aaron)

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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 17:50:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: JoeSmo <[email-masked]>
To: rover_list <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] 109 Brake question (backing plate)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hello

Thank you for the previous post regarding 109 brakes,
they helped me to correct the positioning of my rear
brake pads.  My question has to do with the backing
plate.  After correcting the position of the rear
brake pads I am now having difficulty adjusting the
rear snail adjuster.  Could it be that the backing
plates are on the wrong side?  Correct me if I am
wrong but aren't they side specific?  How do you
determine which goes where?  Should the brake cylinder
be centered, slightly forward/backward?  I received
some information from TeriAnn but I an not sure what
to do with it.

Thank you

Joe Palecek
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com

--__--__--

Message: 2
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 18:29:59 -0700
Subject: [lro] Re: Starter removal
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 15:30:50 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Starter removal
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>If you turn the steering wheel so that the steering box drop arm is all
the way forward the starter will just tuck in below it. This will then
allow you to turn the drive end down and maneuver the starter down and
out.

I understand the theory, but I tried that and it didn't help  The pipe, 
steering tube, coolant drain plug, and dipstick tube all conspire to prevent
the starter 
from coming all the way out unless you loosen the exhaust.  However, I have
made 
no modifications to any of the hardware in and around the engine
compartment, so 
all the brackets, panels, heat riser, etc., etc., etc. are still in place.
Perhaps those 
of you with vehicles that have had extraneous bits removed over time have a
bit 
more room to maneuver in.  Or maybe you have removed or altered the steering

stops, and so at full lock the steering tube is up higher than with the
stock 
settings.  But the only way I could change the starter was to move the
exhaust pipe.

Don't misunderstand me, I'm not complaining. The exhaust studs on my
original manifold 
are in fine condition, and the three bolts holding the exhaust collar to the
manifold backed 
right off with no resistance.  Since taking delivery of the vehicle, I have
always removed 
the three exhaust pipe nuts and cleaned them and the studs off once a year
or so to ensure 
that I could remove them with no problem when the day came I had to.  I'd
had enough 
run-ins with rusted, jammed, cross-threaded, and seized manifold bolts on
the ranch 
equipment I worked with in the 1960s to know I didn't want to have that same
situation 
on my own vehicles (I do the same thing on our Range Rover).   So I didn't
have 
any problems at all other than the puzzle of figuring out how to maneuver
the old starter 
out and the new one in.  But if someone has a manifold with rusted studs or
seized 
bolts, changing a starter could turn into changing a manifold pretty easily.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
(original owner)
1973 Land Rover Series III-88
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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Message: 3
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 18:52:29 -0700
Subject: [lro] Re: Flat Towing
Reply-To: [email-masked]

From: "fulcrum5" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 16:38:27 -0400
Subject: [lro] Flat Towing?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>I'm planning a short move of about 20 miles, and need to move the old girl.
She is still in project stage, but is a roller.

I'm going to assume the steering arms and tie rods are in place :-).  Don't
tie 
the steering wheel, as the front wheels will need to "steer" to follow the
turns 
of the towing vehicle.  But you will have no problems flat-towing the
vehicle; 
that's how a lot of folks tow cars and whatnot behind their motor homes.  If

you're using the standard sort of A-frame device, or the clamping thing with

a central trailer hitch, the vehicle will follow along very nicely.  Just
make sure 
the hitch itself is good and solid, that the ball on the tow bracket matches

the ball on the towing vehicle, and that you rig up a good set of safety 
chains.  

Uninteresting sidebar you can skip: One of the reasons I'm living 
in Seattle now is because a fellow 
had a Jeep CJ-5 come off the hitch on his fancy GM motorhome on a 
highway in the Yukon back in 1977.  He was flat towing, and the hitch 
simply vibrated loose.  The Jeep sailed off a bluff into a lake where we 
happened to be fishing.  Made enough money pulling the Jeep out with 
the Fairey capstan on the Land Rover to afford to take the ferry down 
the Inside Passage instead of driving the Alaska Highway again. (The 
Alcan is neat the first time you drive it and unbelievably boring from then 
on).  Fell in love with the Passage and decided to move from Hawaii 
to the Northwest.

You don't say if the drive train is installed or connected, but if it is,
make 
sure you put the transfer case in neutral and the transmission in fourth.
The 
reason you need to put the transmission in gear is to keep it from turning
slowly 
from the rotation that could be transmitted up through the heavy gear 
oil putting rotational forces on the gear train in the transfer case.
You've 
probably seen full-size pickups driving down the highway with the front 
driveshaft rotating very slowly even though the locking hubs on the 
front are unlocked.  Same deal.  The problem is that some 
of the bearings and bushings in the transmission are splash lubricated,
which is 
no problem if the transmission components are turning at normal driving
speeds.  
But if they are turning very slowly, no oil will be tossed up onto these
bushings, 
and if the tow is long enough, the bushings can be scored or damaged.

Twenty miles is not far, so you won't have any problems if you follow 
Land Rover's towing instructions.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
(original owner)
1973 Land Rover Series III-88
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

--__--__--

Message: 4
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 19:51:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: joe mulqueen <[email-masked]>
To: LRO <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] parabolic reply
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Someone wrote:
"Parabolics...I don't think so.  Parabolics are great
for highway cruising or moderate speeds on maintained
forest service roads.  But they radically decrease
latteral stability and increases the dynamic center 
of gravity.  You are far more apt to lay the vehicle
over on it's side or loose control trying to keep up
with coilers on heavy washboard roads".  

A few comments:
I've driven my 109 SW with both 2leaf/4leaf and
2leaf/3leaf configurations.  My highway driving speeds
are often 65+mph (with OD).  I usually try to test the
suspension in areas having both curves and bumps on
both open and 2 lane winding roads.  I think I've
almost gotten the truck air born at a particular
construction on a county road near my house.  The
truck's suspension is definitely more dynamic
(anything would be compared to a 109 on stock
springs), but I don't feel the truck is overly
unstable - certainly not with the 4 leafers.  I will
admit, the three leafers at the rear of a 109SW are
probably not suitable if carrying more than a few
hundred pounds in the rear.  As for traversing
cambered slopes or fast curves, Yes, the truck can be
rocked side to side and enough rocking or swaying
could put you in trouble, however, the continual
warning of tipovers, and thoughts of a leaning truck
suddenly becoming "topheavy" and "pulling" itself over
is not a fair assement (now I'm gonna have nighmares
remembering those old "Slinky" commercials!).  Any
truck old or new can be tipped or fishtailed into
disaster and just because someone heard of a parabolic
equipped truck tipping over doesn't mean the event was
due to the springs.
Thanks,
Joe Mulqueen
'67 SIIA 109 SW
(PS.  I have a few pics of my truck in the mountains
and field if anyone wants to see)  
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com

--__--__--

Message: 5
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 22:55:44 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] parabolic reply
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I've had no hint of instability with the parabolic springs on FINSUP.

jeb

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Message: 6
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: A rover 'Jones'
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 20:51:06 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Well, then you'll need a heater in the Ambulance :)
>
> Keith

Hahahaha...heater and door tops.  Luckily our stuff get delivered tomorrow
YEAH!!!!
Shouldn't take more then 2 days to get my garage stuff sorted out.

Pete

--__--__--

Message: 7
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 00:03:05 -0400
From: jDolan <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] OT? Old Rover Binker for sale...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Saw this tonight:

"Giant bio-proof bunker for sale
The ultimate property for anyone trying to avoid the threat of
terrorist attacks has come onto the market - a massive
nuclear bunker.
...
...The bunker was built in the 1940s as a back-up factory for
Rover for the production of aircraft engines."

http://www.ananova.com/news/story/sm_427452.html?menu=news.latestheadlines

see ya on the old road...
jim  '61 88" SW w/16"s, OD, 1Bbl Weber, hubs (econobox?) "Selig"
     '60 P5 MkI LHD 4spd w/OD "Olive(r)"
Rochester, Vt.
P5 for sale: http://www.sover.net/~jhdolan/p5%20page.htm (offers
considered, very reasonably priced)

--__--__--

Message: 8
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 00:55:18 -0400
From: Richard Joltes <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] OT? Old Rover Binker for sale...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Old hat...in the 80s the US Govt started selling off old missile silos 
out in the Western
states; several were bought by 'normal' families and turned into 
domestic housing.  Mind
you, these are full-depth (150' deep) reinforced concrete structures 
that _are_ designed to
take a direct strike.  They're not just the silo, either, but include 
the facilities and crew
quarters--quite large, from all I've heard.  And since they're 100+ feet 
down, heating and
cooling costs are non-existent.

Just saw an article about one silo that flooded due to groundwater 
infiltration; a local scuba
diving instructor bought it and has converted it into a 'unique 
freshwater diving experience'
for anyone who's interested.

dj

1974 SIII Airportable, "Smudger"

jDolan wrote:

>Saw this tonight:
>
>"Giant bio-proof bunker for sale
>The ultimate property for anyone trying to avoid the threat of
>terrorist attacks has come onto the market - a massive
>nuclear bunker.
>...
>...The bunker was built in the 1940s as a back-up factory for
>Rover for the production of aircraft engines."
>
>http://www.ananova.com/news/story/sm_427452.html?menu=news.latestheadlines

--__--__--

Message: 9
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 23:02:26 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] OT? Old Rover Binker for sale...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

They've hit the news this week - for some reason, the prices are rising :)

http://www.wired.com/news/culture/0,1284,47577,00.html

Keith

At 00:55 19-10-01, you wrote:

>Old hat...in the 80s the US Govt started selling off old missile silos out 
>in the Western
>states; several were bought by 'normal' families and turned into domestic 
>housing.  Mind
>you, these are full-depth (150' deep) reinforced concrete structures that 
>_are_ designed to
>take a direct strike.  They're not just the silo, either, but include the 
>facilities and crew
>quarters--quite large, from all I've heard.  And since they're 100+ feet 
>down, heating and
>cooling costs are non-existent.
>
>Just saw an article about one silo that flooded due to groundwater 
>infiltration; a local scuba
>diving instructor bought it and has converted it into a 'unique freshwater 
>diving experience'
>for anyone who's interested.
>
>dj
>
>1974 SIII Airportable, "Smudger"
>
>jDolan wrote:
>
>>Saw this tonight:
>>
>>"Giant bio-proof bunker for sale
>>The ultimate property for anyone trying to avoid the threat of
>>terrorist attacks has come onto the market - a massive
>>nuclear bunker.
>>...
>>...The bunker was built in the 1940s as a back-up factory for
>>Rover for the production of aircraft engines."
>>
>>http://www.ananova.com/news/story/sm_427452.html?menu=news.latestheadlines
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 07:40:54 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] wheel stud thread size
Reply-To: [email-masked]

asfco wrote:
 
> Anyone know for sure the size of the wheel stud thread?
> Steve Bradke '68 lla 88

Um, should be 16mm Metric Fine (16X1.5) on a 2a.

Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 22:50:13 -0800
To: [email-masked]
From: aaron <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] towing a rover
Reply-To: [email-masked]

While we're speaking of towing, what about flat towing just the frame 
and axles minus the steering components? I need to get some welding 
done and it seems to be the simplest way to get it there.

Aaron

--__--__--

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