Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #123 - 54 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 03:03:20 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: I'm an LRO!!! (apsilon)
   2. Re: Brakes: converting from a single-circuit, non-servo (Luca Ingianni)
   3. Re: Brakes: converting from a single-circuit, non-servo (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
   4. Re: I'm an LRO!!! (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
   5. UK Source for LR Gagues (Mark Freeman)
   6. major mech. problems - tra la la (Rob MacCormick)
   7. Re: Brakes: converting from a single-circuit, non-servo (Luca Ingianni)
   8. Re: Brakes: converting from a single-circuit, non-servo (TeriAnn Wakeman)
   9. Re: Brakes: converting from a single-circuit, non-servo (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  10. Cant stay on list (Todd Kendrick)
  11. Re-chroming (A. P. (Sandy) Grice)
  12. Disco question (A. P. (Sandy) Grice)
  13. Re:  Replacing starter motor (Faure, Marin)
  14. RE: Disco question (Carl Kinkade)
  15. Re: Starters (Faure, Marin)
  16. Re: Re:  Replacing starter motor ([email-masked])
  17. Parts wanted (Mark Pilkington)
  18. Re: Seattle area scales (Faure, Marin)
  19. Re: Cant stay on list (Brad Crittenden)
  20. Re: Re: Seattle area scales (Keith Tanner)
  21. SV: [lro] Re:  Replacing starter motor (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mattias_Bostr=F6m?=)
  22. Re: Brakes:  converting from a single-circuit, non-servo (John Cranfield)
  23. Spring over swap for a Series (Scott Wickham)
  24. Re: Brakes:  converting from a single-circuit, non-servo (Keith Tanner)
  25. Trakkers Trim, the Best Customer Service on both sides of the
       Atlantic ([email-masked])
  26. Re: Spring over swap for a Series ([email-masked])
  27. Re: Cant stay on list (RON WARD)
  28. worth fighting for... (Frank Elson)
  29. Re: Trakkers Trim, the Best Customer Service on both
       sides of theAtlantic (RON WARD)
  30. Re: SV: [lro] Re:  Replacing starter motor (Mark Pilkington)
  31. Hella 3000 Mounts (RON WARD)
  32. brake drum removal... (Jeff Bieler)
  33. Re: brake drum removal... (David Scheidt)
  34. Re: Hella 3000 Mounts (Keith Tanner)
  35. Re: brake drum removal... (Jeff Bieler)
  36. Capstan winch drive shaft freeplay (Andrew Nordby)
  37. Warn Hubs (asfco)
  38. Re: Fried ammeter (Jeff Bieler)
  39. Re: brake drum removal... (David Scheidt)
  40. Re: Fried ammeter (Jeff Bieler)
  41. Re: brake drum removal... (Jeff Bieler)
  42. Re: Bulkhead Draft/ Wheel Fell off (Monty Brandenberg)
  43. Re: Flame thrower (was terrorism....) (Monty Brandenberg)
  44. Re: Re: Seattle area scales (Peter Ogilvie)
  45. Re: Warn Hubs (Scott Wickham)
  46. Re: Warn Hubs (asfco)
  47. Re: brake drum removal... (William J. Rice)
  48. leaking door seals revisited (Bill Fishel)
  49. Re: Re: Seattle area scales (Hope Peter)
  50. Re: Spring over swap for a Series (Hope Peter)
  51. Re: Disco question (Jeremy)
  52. Re: Re: Seattle area scales (Rich & Lori Williams)

--__--__--

Message: 1
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] I'm an LRO!!!
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 20:09:04 +1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

That's OK.

I'm not familiar with US import laws but has anyone ever considered
importing their own? Given the US price guide I found while doing research
it may end up cheaper.

Matt.
who hasn't come up with a sig for this list yet

>
> Sorry - didn't realize that you were in AU - the price makes sense there
> from what I've seen.
>
> Wish I could find good trucks for 2K....8)
>
>                     ajr

--__--__--

Message: 2
From: Luca Ingianni <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Brakes: converting from a single-circuit, non-servo
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 12:52:12 +0200
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Am Friday 12 October 2001 20:07 schrieb Peter Ogilvie:
> From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>

> I drove my 88 for 3 or 4 years without a functioning booster.  It wasn't
> a problem stopping the truck but holding it on a hill definitely built
> up my right leg.  I could hold the truck motionless but felt the strain.
>  Don't have any experience with the 109 w/o boost.

Same with the 109. Driving is not a problem, just waiting in front of a 
red light on a hill or similar things.

A propos brakes: I have a SIII diesel and the brake booster apparently 
gets its vacuum from the manifold. Except the booster doesn't work. I 
understand they're not really serviceable. How do they usually fail? In 
ways that are repairable (also maybe it simply doesn't get enough vacuum)?

My brakes are odd anyway: sometimes when I brake the truck pulls to the 
left, more rarely and less fiercely to the right. And most of the time it 
simply drives straight. I suppose I have sticking wheel cylinders, but why 
not always the same one? Both sides started to behave like that at the 
same time which would be quite a coincidence if I simply have 2 wheel 
cylinders starting to stick at the same time. Right?
Also both my left wheels have much less profile left than the right ones - 
why is that?

So what should I do? Provided that I haven't ever looked at brake 
hydraulics before (as some of you may remember I *did* have a look at my 
clutch though...) and the horror stories about people not getting their 
systems bled properly don't really encourage me to fiddle with them and be 
left with non-working brakes and no decent garage that I know of.

have fun,
	Luca
-- 
There are very few personal problems that cannot be solved through a
suitable application of high explosives.

--__--__--

Message: 3
Subject: Re: [lro] Brakes: converting from a single-circuit, non-servo
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 07:08:02 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>A propos brakes: I have a SIII diesel and the brake booster apparently
>gets its vacuum from the manifold. Except the booster doesn't work. I
>understand they're not really serviceable. How do they usually fail? In
>ways that are repairable (also maybe it simply doesn't get enough vacuum)?

Simple way to tell if the booster is OK - pull a vacuum on the inlet line
and see if you hear a leak. it's a simple diaphragm device - nothing fancy
there at all. I have a little hand vacuum pump I use around the shop for
this, testing distributors and the like.

As far as the vacuum off the Diesel goes, stick your thumb over the end of
the hose  - is it getting sucked down pretty strongly at idle? If so, the
thing is set up OK.

More the point, someone may have removed the strangler flap from the
S.III's intake manifold - they are a performance issue. If that's the case,
a switch to an alternator with a vacuum pump on the back is likely the
easiest fix.

>My brakes are odd anyway: sometimes when I brake the truck pulls to the
>left, more rarely and less fiercely to the right.

Sounds to me more like contaminated brake shoes - do you have leaking wheel
cylinders or hub seals?

>Also both my left wheels have much less profile left than the right ones -

>why is that?

The offset of the wheels is different? Oh, joy....souns like someone
earlier in its life swapped two of the wheels for something different. This
is bad for handling and steering...if I were you I'd think about finding
two more wheels that mach two you already have.

>So what should I do? Provided that I haven't ever looked at brake
>hydraulics before

It's not rocket science. Were I you the first thing I'd do is have the
wheels and brake drums off and have a good look inside. This will tell you
where you need to go next. Also, a brake adjustment might do wonders for
the stopping characteristics, as well as checking the vacuum bits to see
what is up there.

                    ajr

--__--__--

Message: 4
Subject: Re: [lro] I'm an LRO!!!
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 07:14:10 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>I'm not familiar with US import laws but has anyone ever considered
>importing their own? Given the US price guide I found while doing research
>it may end up cheaper.

It is less expensive, speaking as one who's done it - but we are restricted
to more than 25-year-old trucks to avoid the Department of Transportation
crashworthiness stupidity unless you want to pay an importer a LOT of money
to convert and certify one for US use.

>Matt.
>who hasn't come up with a sig for this list yet

DOn't worry about it - been here long time never used a .sig yet....8)

                         ajr

--__--__--

Message: 5
From: "Mark Freeman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 07:48:27 -0700
Subject: [lro] UK Source for LR Gagues
Reply-To: [email-masked]

The UK source for new Smiths gauges as well as specific LR gauges is Gower
Oaks Ltd. http://www.gower-oaks.co.uk/ This firm represents the company that
purchased the rights to use the Smiths' name on gauges and operate out of
the original Smith's factory in Wales that was acquired when VDO closed up
shop there.
Very nice people and the prices should make our US based suppliers blush.

David hope wrote:

Can anyone recall the business in England that sells
every conceivable electrical gauge - Smiths, Lucas
etc.  I need a 2 1/16th inch voltage gauge to keep an
eye on my alternator.

David Hope
64 SWB SW

Best Regards,

Mark Freeman
Sedalia, Missouri
Series Vehicles beyond what reasonable people would do.

--__--__--

Message: 6
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 09:04:27 -0400
From: Rob MacCormick <[email-masked]>
Organization: Boston College
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] major mech. problems - tra la la
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
> > I've seen Rovers show up to local field meets year after year with the same major > mechanical problem.

Ignorance is bliss, we drove our dormobile for several years with a howlling driveline noise..I thought they
all sounded like that.....Earlier this Summer a LRO cousin drove it and said "Rob if this was my landrover I
wouldn't be driving it"

Imagine that....Come to find out the rear diff. carrier was being slowely "machined" by the pinion gear....
Rob MacCormick
Concord, MA

--__--__--

Message: 7
From: Luca Ingianni <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Brakes: converting from a single-circuit, non-servo
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 16:55:04 +0200
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Am Tuesday 16 October 2001 13:08 schrieb Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus:

> >Also both my left wheels have much less profile left than the right
> > ones -
> >
> >why is that?
>
> The offset of the wheels is different? Oh, joy....souns like someone
> earlier in its life swapped two of the wheels for something different.
> This is bad for handling and steering...if I were you I'd think about
> finding two more wheels that mach two you already have.

No, let me clarify: the wheels were all newish and identical when I bought 
te truck, but both left ones wear a lot faster than the right ones. And 
I'm not usually driving in circles :*)

have fun,
	Luca
-- 
There are very few personal problems that cannot be solved through a
suitable application of high explosives.

--__--__--

Message: 8
Subject: Re: [lro] Brakes: converting from a single-circuit, non-servo
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 01 08:10:09 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>> I drove my 88 for 3 or 4 years without a functioning booster.  

> How do they usually fail?

One common way is for a hole to develop on the diaphram.  Of course this 
opens an air path to your intake manifold and leans out your air fuel 
mixture.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 9
Subject: Re: [lro] Brakes: converting from a single-circuit, non-servo
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 11:10:08 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Luca, have you ever had the alignment checked on this truck? If one side is
wearing faster than the other I would suspect your wheelbase isn't quite
the same on both sides...

Was this truck ever in an accident that you know of?

                    ajr

--__--__--

Message: 10
From: "Todd Kendrick" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 08:19:08 -0600
Subject: [lro] Cant stay on list
Reply-To: [email-masked]

    For some odd reason I have been unable to "stay" on the list. Every time
I go into the options page my mail delivery has been turned off. I go in and
reset it and the next day it is turned off again. I have e-mailed the list
administrator about this several times and have gotten no response. The
problems started a few months age when some changes were made. Can anyone
help me stay on this list ?

Todd Kendrick
Taos, NM

--__--__--

Message: 11
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 12:17:49 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: "A. P. (Sandy) Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Re-chroming
Reply-To: [email-masked]

"Terry Joyce" <[email-masked]> wrote:

>1 remove balls
>2 strip the chrome (a plater shold do this for nothing because he gets the
>chromium)
>3 fill the pits and wear points with bronze or silver bronze. (you need a
>gas torch and flux for this), file and polish.
>4 re hardchrome
>5 refit with new seals

While that may be all well and good in Oz, chrome plating has gotten
horrendously expensive in the good ol' US of A.  So expensive that when I
was considering having some boat hardware re-chromed not to long ago, gold
or silver plating seemed to be an economical alternative!  To chrome plate
anything, the part has to be electroplated twice before hand with base
metals (nickle? copper?) and then chromed.  All involve various nasty
chemical solutions that are expensive to dispose.

Cheers

	*-----"jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is legendary"----*
	|                 A. P. "Sandy" Grice                  |
	|    The Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd    |
	|     1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
	|     757-622-7054  (H)423-4898  (FAX)757-622-7056     |
	*------------------------------------------------------*

--__--__--

Message: 12
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 12:17:51 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: "A. P. (Sandy) Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Disco question
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Travis Garrett" <[email-masked]> wrote:

>I have a '97 Disco LSE 4.0lt.  I had problem with a cylinder misfire this 
>passed week.  I replaced the spark plug leads and fixed the problem.  
>However, the check engine light was tripped.  Does any one know how to reset 
>the Check Engine light?  My local shop is going to charge me $40 and I'm 
>betting I can do it myself.  I would appreciate any advice.

$40!?!  You are getting off easy!  I wanted the local dealer to 'pull the
codes' to see what O2 sensors needed replacing.  $140.  No lie...just for
hooking that bloody Testbook up for a few seconds.

If you have solved the problem, the light will reset itself in 4-6 'cycles'
(start-drive-stop) if the problem doesn't recur.

Cheers

	*-----"jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is legendary"----*
	|                 A. P. "Sandy" Grice                  |
	|    The Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd    |
	|     1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
	|     757-622-7054  (H)423-4898  (FAX)757-622-7056     |
	*------------------------------------------------------*

--__--__--

Message: 13
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 09:28:27 -0700
Subject: [lro] Re:  Replacing starter motor
Reply-To: [email-masked]

From: "Neil Brownlee" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Replacing starter motor
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 13:46:39 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Yuo can actually replace the starter motor without using the Haynes,
"remove
the exhaust" method. It's a bit fiddly, but since I snapped two studs on
mine the first time, I've undone the bolts on the starter and slid it up the
chassis rail.

Actually, the "remove the exhaust" method is the one described in the SIII
factory 
service manual.  And I see no way of getting that starter into position
given its 
long drive shaft and gear, without loosening the exhaust pipe from the
manifold. Even 
then it's extremely difficult to maneuver it around with the exhaust pipe
detached. You 
can't even get the old one out without loosening the pipe.  Other things 
that get in the way are the oil dipstick tube and the block coolant drain,
both 
of which prevent the starter from being moved forward.  I'm not saying 
getting it into place without loosening the exhaust pipe is impossible, but
I don't 
see how it can be done unless one doesn't have all the other obstructions
that 
block access to the starter mount.  Perhaps if you removed the wing and 
inner wheel arch panel to access the starter motor from the side, this would

negate the requirement to loosen the exhaust.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
(original owner)
1973 Land Rover Series III-88
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

--__--__--

Message: 14
From: "Carl Kinkade" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Disco question
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 11:31:30 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I don't know how the '97 Disco is different than the '95 Range Rover, but
all you need to do to reset the codes is unplug the negative lead to the
battery, just make sure you have the code for the radio.

The code display for the range rover is under the passenger seat and it
displays the code for the 02 sensors and which bank it is on.

Carl Kinkade, MCRP
ESRI Authorized Instructor
Kinkade GIS
Using GIS for Public Health and Community Analysis
3420 S. 31st St
Lincoln, NE 68502
work (402) 420-6882
fax (402) 420-6882
[email-masked]

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf
Of A. P. (Sandy) Grice
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 11:18 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Disco question

Travis Garrett" <[email-masked]> wrote:

>I have a '97 Disco LSE 4.0lt.  I had problem with a cylinder misfire this
>passed week.  I replaced the spark plug leads and fixed the problem.
>However, the check engine light was tripped.  Does any one know how to
reset
>the Check Engine light?  My local shop is going to charge me $40 and I'm
>betting I can do it myself.  I would appreciate any advice.

$40!?!  You are getting off easy!  I wanted the local dealer to 'pull the
codes' to see what O2 sensors needed replacing.  $140.  No lie...just for
hooking that bloody Testbook up for a few seconds.

If you have solved the problem, the light will reset itself in 4-6 'cycles'
(start-drive-stop) if the problem doesn't recur.

Cheers

	*-----"jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is legendary"----*
	|                 A. P. "Sandy" Grice                  |
	|    The Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd    |
	|     1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
	|     757-622-7054  (H)423-4898  (FAX)757-622-7056     |
	*------------------------------------------------------*
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 15
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 09:39:12 -0700
Subject: [lro] Re: Starters
Reply-To: [email-masked]

To: [email-masked]
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Starters
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>You don't need to remove anything to remove a Series III starter.  There is
*just* enough clearance and wiggle room to take the unit out the top, Dyer
gear first, between the manifold and the bulkhead.  Can't do that with a
IIa starter that is about .5" longer....

Not really.  In order to do what you suggest, I'd have to remove a heat
riser 
plate that curves around the exaust pipe under the manifold.  Also, I don't 
believe the brake booster allows sufficient space to pull the starter out
from 
above.  Perhaps on vehicles with non-servo brakes there is more working 
space above the starter.  On a right-hand drive vehicle, removing the 
starter from above is probably quite easy as all the brake and clutch 
mechanisms are over on the other side of the engine bay.

But assuming you have no problems removing the three nuts that hold the 
exhaust to the manifold, changing the starter from underneath is quite 
easy once you figure out the moves needed to get the old one out 
and the new one in.  I struggled quite awhile until it suddenly became 
apparent how to maneuver the starter up and into position, at which 
point it went in quite easily.  But it took me awhile to figure out 
the move, prior to which there was a lot of cursing going on.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
(original owner)
1973 Land Rover Series III-88
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
Seattle

--__--__--

Message: 16
From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 12:41:24 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] Re:  Replacing starter motor
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 10/16/01 12:31:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> I don't 
> see how it can be done unless one doesn't have all the other obstructions
> that 
> block access to the starter mount.  

On my RHD 88, I have removed an old SIIa style starter and replaced in with a 
new SIII style starter while wearing a shirt and tie, in a parking lot.  I 
did not have to remove the exhaust pipe, and the whole process took about 
20-30 minutes.  On a RHD, a person can tip the free end of the starter up and 
then remove it from below.  Installation is the reverse.  I can imagine that 
it would be significantly more difficult with a LHD (an inferior design, 
IMHO) since the steering box, could be a PITA.

Nate

--__--__--

Message: 17
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 09:51:50 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Parts wanted
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Does anyone need a Series One Bonnet that is striaght but needs paint?  E-mail
me off-list if interested. Also, I need the four little rubber bump-stops that
go on a seris Bonnet around the raised hump of the tire mount.  The rubbe things
stop the tire rubbing the paint. Anyone got any?  Anyone got the bracket the
bolts to the bulkhead with two bolts and flips up to secure the windshield base
on the inside? It has a long threaded rod and a special nut that goes through
the slot in the lower windshield bracket. I need one of those as well as mine
sheared off. Left side only.  Thanks.
Kind regards,
Mark Pilkington

--__--__--

Message: 18
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 09:54:45 -0700
Subject: [lro] Re: Seattle area scales
Reply-To: [email-masked]

From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Seattle Area Scales
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 07:52:25 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>If I don't respond, probably
because I am to frozen to move.  Don't know what I was thinking, 
let the movers packup all of my goretex, all
I have with me is a nylon pullover and a sweatshirt.

You think THIS is cold?????  Fall in the northwest is the 
most perfect temperature range I've found anywhere in the 
world.  This is shirtsleeve weather. And I grew up in Hawaii.  
If you want cold, you'll 
have to wait till February, and even then it will still be above 
freezing.  Don't go calling this cold to anyone from Minnesota 
or North Dakota.  They won't stop laughing for a week.

And wait till it snows.  We never get more than an inch or two, 
but the way people drive and act you'd think this was the equivalent 
of the "Big Blizzard of '06" with drifts up to eight feet high.  I have 
never seen a larger group of more incompetent drivers than in the 
Puget Sound area after a half inch snowfall.  And what's REALLY 
ironic is that the majority of vehicles you'll see in the ditch are 
4wd pickups and SUVs. People around here don't seem to 
realize that 4wd=2wd=0wd on ice......

By the way, we have several sets of scales at work, but 
I don't think they'd register anything as light as a Land Rover. 
We use them to weigh our planes after painting.  Your best 
bet will be one of the "transfer station" aka drive-in garbage 
dumps, which charge by comparing the weight of your 
vehicle when you drive in to the weight when you drive out 
after dumping your stuff.  Way north of Seattle on I-5 
there are some truck weigh stations that might be willing to 
let you run over their scale.  Bit out of the way, though, as 
the ones I know of are between Mt. Vernon and Bellingham, 
about 100 miles north.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
Producer/Director, Boeing Video Services
telephone (425)393-7721
mobile (206)650-5622
fax: (425)393-7741
e-mail: [email-masked]

--__--__--

Message: 19
From: "Brad Crittenden" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Cant stay on list
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 12:57:03 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

the changes that occurred a few months ago included a switch from majordomo
to mailman as the list processor.  mailman has an email-bounce detection
feature that will mark the offending address as undeliverable after a number
of emails bounce.  i suspect this is what you are seeing.  is your mail
server stable?  this is just a guess...

if it continues, you may want to subscribe using a free web-based mail
account (yahoo, hotmail, hushmail) and see if you have the same problem.

--brad

----- Original Message -----
From: "Todd Kendrick" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 10:19 AM
Subject: [lro] Cant stay on list

>
>     For some odd reason I have been unable to "stay" on the list. Every
time
> I go into the options page my mail delivery has been turned off. I go in
and
> reset it and the next day it is turned off again. I have e-mailed the list
> administrator about this several times and have gotten no response. The
> problems started a few months age when some changes were made. Can anyone
> help me stay on this list ?
>
>
> Todd Kendrick
> Taos, NM
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 20
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 10:59:52 -0600
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Seattle area scales
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Now I need to know - how much does the paint on a plane weigh?

Keith

>By the way, we have several sets of scales at work, but
>I don't think they'd register anything as light as a Land Rover.
>We use them to weigh our planes after painting.

--__--__--

Message: 21
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mattias_Bostr=F6m?= <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: SV: [lro] Re:  Replacing starter motor
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 19:12:38 +0200
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I took the starter out and put it back in after I had fixed it without
removing anything from the engine. I can4t say that it was easy and I can4t
say how I did it. But I did

Best Regards
Mattias Bostrom
S.L.R.K #1329
Land Rover 90" -98 Tdi CSW
BMW 528i Touring
home page: http://user.tninet.se/~vwu213j
e-mail: [email-masked]

-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Fren: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]Fvr Faure,
Marin
Skickat: den 16 oktober 2001 18:28
Till: 'Land Rover Mail Group'
Dmne: [lro] Re: Replacing starter motor

From: "Neil Brownlee" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Replacing starter motor
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 13:46:39 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Yuo can actually replace the starter motor without using the Haynes,
"remove
the exhaust" method. It's a bit fiddly, but since I snapped two studs on
mine the first time, I've undone the bolts on the starter and slid it up the
chassis rail.

Actually, the "remove the exhaust" method is the one described in the SIII
factory
service manual.  And I see no way of getting that starter into position
given its
long drive shaft and gear, without loosening the exhaust pipe from the
manifold. Even
then it's extremely difficult to maneuver it around with the exhaust pipe
detached. You
can't even get the old one out without loosening the pipe.  Other things
that get in the way are the oil dipstick tube and the block coolant drain,
both
of which prevent the starter from being moved forward.  I'm not saying
getting it into place without loosening the exhaust pipe is impossible, but
I don't
see how it can be done unless one doesn't have all the other obstructions
that
block access to the starter mount.  Perhaps if you removed the wing and
inner wheel arch panel to access the starter motor from the side, this would

negate the requirement to loosen the exhaust.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
(original owner)
1973 Land Rover Series III-88
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 22
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 14:40:06 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Brakes:  converting from a single-circuit, non-servo
Reply-To: [email-masked]

A sudden and complete failure after a rebuild of the system makes me
wonder what fluid you used.
Ordinary DOT3 and DOT4 can eat the seals in short order.
However Castrol GT LMA has proven safe to use.
John and Muddy

Brad Crittenden wrote:
> 
> All:
> 
> I have a '75 Series III 88" RHD diesel with a single-circuit, non-server
> (booster) brake system.  It recently suffered a sudden and complete failure
> of the brakes.  The cause has not yet been determined but the entire system
> is going to be re-done to restore it to a safe, functioning system.
> 
> Since I will be doing a complete overhaul, I was wondering about converting
> to a dual-circuit system with a servo.  Is it a simple matter of removing
> the old master cylinder, adding the servo and new master cylinder, and
> running the new required lines?  Has anyone done this?  Are there other
> issues?  Is it worth the trouble and expense?
> 
> Thanks for any help you might offer.
> 
> --Brad
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 23
From: "Scott Wickham" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 13:49:30 -0400
Subject: [lro] Spring over swap for a Series
Reply-To: [email-masked]

  I found an old article about doing this to a Suzuki Samari, looks pretty
simple.  Antone know of any web articles/pics of it being done to a Series
rig?

Scott Wickham Jr.
Pgh., Pa.
Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
'72 SIII
'84 RR
http://backpn7.dmaust.net/

--__--__--

Message: 24
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 11:48:44 -0600
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Brakes:  converting from a single-circuit, non-servo
Reply-To: [email-masked]

And I must report that cheap Canadian Tire DOT 4 seems to be working just 
fine after about 6 months use in Basil.

Keith

At 11:40 10/16/01, you wrote:

>A sudden and complete failure after a rebuild of the system makes me
>wonder what fluid you used.
>Ordinary DOT3 and DOT4 can eat the seals in short order.
>However Castrol GT LMA has proven safe to use.
>John and Muddy
>
>Brad Crittenden wrote:
> >
> > All:
> >
> > I have a '75 Series III 88" RHD diesel with a single-circuit, non-server
> > (booster) brake system.  It recently suffered a sudden and complete failure
> > of the brakes.  The cause has not yet been determined but the entire system
> > is going to be re-done to restore it to a safe, functioning system.
> >
> > Since I will be doing a complete overhaul, I was wondering about converting
> > to a dual-circuit system with a servo.  Is it a simple matter of removing
> > the old master cylinder, adding the servo and new master cylinder, and
> > running the new required lines?  Has anyone done this?  Are there other
> > issues?  Is it worth the trouble and expense?
> >
> > Thanks for any help you might offer.
> >
> > --Brad
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

--__--__--

Message: 25
From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 14:04:42 EDT
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Trakkers Trim, the Best Customer Service on both sides of the
 Atlantic
Reply-To: [email-masked]

My recent experience with Trakkers as I sent to the LR mags:

  I recently ordered a set of Extreme Hi Back seats for my 1968 '109 pickup.
When they arrived the quality was far and away the best I've seen of any
Series seat. It was only when I tried installing them that I realized there
was a problem. The outer seats were for a Series 1 and too narrow for my seat
frames. Needless to say I was concerned being half way around the world. But
after a quick call to Lew the following day, I was put at ease "We shanbt
leave you with the wrong seats. We'll make things right" he said. That he
did, only two weeks after speaking with Lew, the seats arrived via DHL
overnight express.  The now installed Moorland Hi backs look and feel great.
   Almost all of us have had negative experiences with parts suppliers at
some time. To Lew's credit this wasn't one of those times. Not only did he
make it right, he sent them express shipping which he paid for; making the
whole transaction a lose, I'm sure.
  If you are looking for quality seats from a firm that stands behind their
work and service, no matter where you are in the world. Look no further then
Lew at Trakkers & Exmoor Trim.

Scott Just
Rochester
Michigan
USA

--__--__--

Message: 26
From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 14:05:38 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] Spring over swap for a Series
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 10/16/01 1:50:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [email-masked] 
writes:

> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   I found an old article about doing this to a Suzuki Samari, looks pretty
> simple.  Antone know of any web articles/pics of it being done to a Series
> rig?
> 
> 

Scooter,

This was discussed a few years back.  Major concerns were raised about how 
much it would raise the center of gravity. Also, for 88's the propshaft 
angles would get a bit stressed.  Folks talked about tipping the axle casing, 
but others worried about proper lubrication.   Overall, there was significant 
skepticism.

Nate

--__--__--

Message: 27
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 13:20:48 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Cant stay on list
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Check you defaults on the mail options drop-down list.  Also, if you have any security firewalls like my company, getting posts is hit-or-miss on a good day.

Good luck.

>>> [email-masked] 10/16/01 10:19AM >>>

    For some odd reason I have been unable to "stay" on the list. Every time
I go into the options page my mail delivery has been turned off. I go in and
reset it and the next day it is turned off again. I have e-mailed the list
administrator about this several times and have gotten no response. The
problems started a few months age when some changes were made. Can anyone
help me stay on this list ?

Todd Kendrick
Taos, NM
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked] 
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 28
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 19:29:26 +0100
Subject: [lro] worth fighting for...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

 Miss America/Miss Afghanistan

On the left is Katie Harmon, Miss America, wearing the swimsuit she
chose for the competition.
On the right is a typical Afghan girl, wearing the heavy smothering
burqua as required by the oppressive Taliban regime.

Miss America is a junior at Portland State University, hoping to
eventually get a Master's degree in Bioethics.
Miss Afghanistan is forbidden from receiving any education at all and
cannot read or write.

Miss America has worked as a lab assistant at both the Oregon Health
Sciences University and the University of Puget Sound.
Miss Afghanistan is forbidden from working.

Miss America's father is an engineer. Her mother is a teacher.
Miss Afghanistan's father was shot by a gang of Taliban militants. Her
mother begs for bread scraps since she cannot work or remarry.

Miss America wowed the judges by singing a Puccini aria, "O Mio Babbino
Caro."
Miss Afghanistan is forbidden from singing or even listening to music of
any kind.

Miss America will be travelling the nation non-stop during her reign.
Miss Afghanistan cannot leave her house without a male family member,
cannot drive, and cannot be out after dark.

Miss America is an advocate for breast cancer research.
Miss Afghanistan cannot be treated by a male doctor and, for all
practical purposes, has no access to medical treatment of any kind.

Miss America can date, marry, or divorce anyone she chooses.
Miss Afghanistan will be stoned to death if caught in the company of a
male outside of her family. She is likely to be sold into an arranged
marriage to a man who already has two wives.

Miss America wears sunscreen on the beach to keep from burning.
Miss Afghanistan cannot live in a house with windows unless they are
painted black. Since she must wear a burqua outside, her pale
translucent skin has not seen a ray of sunlight in years.

Miss America could have been disqualified if her swimsuit did not meet
pageant standards.
Miss Afghanistan can be flogged if the holes in the mesh covering her
face are too large.

Miss America will decide how many children, if any, she wants to have.
Miss Afghanistan will be pregnant 3-4 times more often than Miss
America. Unfortunately, her babies are 25 times more likely to die in
the first year. 1 out of 4 will not see their 5th birthday.

Miss America is majoring in speech communications at PSU.
Miss Afghanistan is forbidden from speaking in public.

Miss America is 21. Since the U.S. life expectancy for women is 80,
she's still a very young woman.
Miss Afghanistan is also 21. But since the life expectancy for an Afghan
woman is 43, next year she will be "over-the-hill." (Besides having a
shockingly short life expectancy overall, Afghanistan is one of the only
countries in the world in which women have a shorter life expectancy
than men.)

Miss America is a beautiful, intelligent woman and everyone knows it.
Miss Afghanistan is a beautiful, intelligent woman but nobody will ever
know it.

God Bless Miss America.
God Save Miss Afghanistan.

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+            
     I !__|  [_]|_\___   
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV 
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

--__--__--

Message: 29
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 14:47:21 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Trakkers Trim, the Best Customer Service on both
  sides of theAtlantic
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Got any pictures of the seats as they sit in the truck?

>>> [email-masked] 10/16/01 02:04PM >>>

My recent experience with Trakkers as I sent to the LR mags:

  I recently ordered a set of Extreme Hi Back seats for my 1968 '109 pickup.
When they arrived the quality was far and away the best I've seen of any
Series seat. It was only when I tried installing them that I realized there
was a problem. The outer seats were for a Series 1 and too narrow for my seat
frames. Needless to say I was concerned being half way around the world. But
after a quick call to Lew the following day, I was put at ease "We shanbt
leave you with the wrong seats. We'll make things right" he said. That he
did, only two weeks after speaking with Lew, the seats arrived via DHL
overnight express.  The now installed Moorland Hi backs look and feel great.
   Almost all of us have had negative experiences with parts suppliers at
some time. To Lew's credit this wasn't one of those times. Not only did he
make it right, he sent them express shipping which he paid for; making the
whole transaction a lose, I'm sure.
  If you are looking for quality seats from a firm that stands behind their
work and service, no matter where you are in the world. Look no further then
Lew at Trakkers & Exmoor Trim.

Scott Just
Rochester
Michigan
USA
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked] 
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 30
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 12:30:45 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: SV: [lro] Re:  Replacing starter motor
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I was replacing a rear handbrake cable on my 78 Mercedes 450 SL last night. I
have the Haynes manual and was reading it over a cup of tea prior to the work.
It was the usual stuff about jacking the car and removing the wheel and tapping
off the disc (it has a rear disc with shoes inside the hub for the hand brake)
Then to my amazement, because it is not a Land Rover it actually said as
casually as you like, to remove the entire exhaust system and heat shield
underneath it. I thought that it was a little excessive as these cars have a 4.5
liter V8 in them and two pipes etc etc. As I thought, I found that it was not
necessary and releasing the hangers was enough to get my hand underneath. The
last thing I want to do on any car is take off parts that are not what I am
working on.  It also had bolts that needed the nut to be held from behind to
prevent it from turning in a totally inaccessable area. Just like my Series IIa
I thought, but with less room to lie under it.
Kind regards,
Mark Pilkington

Mattias Bostrvm wrote:

> I took the starter out and put it back in after I had fixed it without
> removing anything from the engine. I can4t say that it was easy and I can4t
> say how I did it. But I did
>
> Best Regards
> Mattias Bostrom
> S.L.R.K #1329
> Land Rover 90" -98 Tdi CSW
> BMW 528i Touring
> home page: http://user.tninet.se/~vwu213j
> e-mail: [email-masked]
>
> -----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
> Fren: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]Fvr Faure,
> Marin
> Skickat: den 16 oktober 2001 18:28
> Till: 'Land Rover Mail Group'
> Dmne: [lro] Re: Replacing starter motor
>
> From: "Neil Brownlee" <[email-masked]>
> To: <[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [lro] Replacing starter motor
> Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 13:46:39 +0100
> Reply-To: [email-masked]
>
> >Yuo can actually replace the starter motor without using the Haynes,
> "remove
> the exhaust" method. It's a bit fiddly, but since I snapped two studs on
> mine the first time, I've undone the bolts on the starter and slid it up the
> chassis rail.
>
> Actually, the "remove the exhaust" method is the one described in the SIII
> factory
> service manual.  And I see no way of getting that starter into position
> given its
> long drive shaft and gear, without loosening the exhaust pipe from the
> manifold. Even
> then it's extremely difficult to maneuver it around with the exhaust pipe
> detached. You
> can't even get the old one out without loosening the pipe.  Other things
> that get in the way are the oil dipstick tube and the block coolant drain,
> both
> of which prevent the starter from being moved forward.  I'm not saying
> getting it into place without loosening the exhaust pipe is impossible, but
> I don't
> see how it can be done unless one doesn't have all the other obstructions
> that
> block access to the starter mount.  Perhaps if you removed the wing and
> inner wheel arch panel to access the starter motor from the side, this would
>
> negate the requirement to loosen the exhaust.
>
> _________________________________________
> C. Marin Faure
> (original owner)
> 1973 Land Rover Series III-88
> 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 31
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 15:40:47 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>, <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Hella 3000 Mounts
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Sorry for the cross-post...  I am missing a couple mounting bits that came with some 2nd hand Hella 3000's.  I have the lights and the plastic bases (thanks Alex!) but lack a small two-piece plastic bit that goes around the adjustable "ball joint" at the bottom of each light.  Anyone know of a source for these miscellaneous bits??

Thanks

Ron Ward
Columbus, GA

--__--__--

Message: 32
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 13:02:04 -0700
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: Land Rovers <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] brake drum removal...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Any hints or techniques that might work in the removal of three very solidly
seated brake drum nuts?  Got the other three off, but the right rear isn't
going anywhere in this lifetime.

Jeff
1965IIA

--__--__--

Message: 33
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 16:37:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: Land Rovers <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] brake drum removal...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Tue, 16 Oct 2001, Jeff Bieler wrote:

> 
> Any hints or techniques that might work in the removal of three very solidly
> seated brake drum nuts?  Got the other three off, but the right rear isn't
> going anywhere in this lifetime.

I presume you're talking about the three flat head screws that hold the drum
on?  Spray your favorite penetrating oil on them.  Then use an impact
screwdriver on them.  An impact screwdriver is a doo-hickey that you hit
with a hammer, and it unscrews things; a source of much fun.  If that don't 
work, apply heat, and then re-apply your favorite penatrating oil.  Rinse, 
lather, repeat. 

--__--__--

Message: 34
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 15:12:13 -0600
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Hella 3000 Mounts
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I'd try Susquehanna. http://catalog.com/susq/

Keith

At 13:40 10/16/01, you wrote:

>Sorry for the cross-post...  I am missing a couple mounting bits that came 
>with some 2nd hand Hella 3000's.  I have the lights and the plastic bases 
>(thanks Alex!) but lack a small two-piece plastic bit that goes around the 
>adjustable "ball joint" at the bottom of each light.  Anyone know of a 
>source for these miscellaneous bits??
>
>Thanks
>
>Ron Ward
>Columbus, GA
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

--__--__--

Message: 35
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 14:19:02 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] brake drum removal...
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

That's the path I'm working down.  I was hoping someone knew a secret
code...  

Much swearing going on at this end.

Jeff

on 10/16/01 1:37 PM, David Scheidt at [email-masked] wrote:

> 
> On Tue, 16 Oct 2001, Jeff Bieler wrote:
> 
>> 
>> Any hints or techniques that might work in the removal of three very solidly
>> seated brake drum nuts?  Got the other three off, but the right rear isn't
>> going anywhere in this lifetime.
> 
> I presume you're talking about the three flat head screws that hold the drum
> on?  Spray your favorite penetrating oil on them.  Then use an impact
> screwdriver on them.  An impact screwdriver is a doo-hickey that you hit
> with a hammer, and it unscrews things; a source of much fun.  If that don't
> work, apply heat, and then re-apply your favorite penatrating oil.  Rinse,
> lather, repeat. 
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 36
From: "Andrew Nordby" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 14:25:40 -0700
Subject: [lro] Capstan winch drive shaft freeplay
Reply-To: [email-masked]

To complete the installation of an incomplete Aeroparts capstan winch onto 
my now 4cyl NADA 109, I need to figure out how long the drive shaft needs to 
be. My understanding of how this works, from the parts diagram and some 
general noodling, is that a plunger and spring are fitted between each end 
of the drive shaft and its corresponding U-Joint sleeve to prevent 
uncontrolled vibration and allow for movement of the engine. If anyone with 
an installed capstan winch can tell me how much fore-and-aft movement they 
can see in their driveshaft, maybe I can get this job finished. Bonus points 
if you happen to also know the dimensions of the plungers and springs...

Thanks,
Andy Nordby

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 37
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 17:30:00 -0400
From: asfco <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Warn Hubs
Reply-To: [email-masked]

had a leak in the front hub oil seal making a mess of the brake pads and
decided to fix it.
Got everything back together and put the tire on only to discover that 2
of the approx 3/4" needle bearings that fit inside the Warn M-11 Hubs
were laying on the floor...hubs lock in & out with no problems...
Is it absolutely necessary to take  this apart again or will I be asking
for trouble if I don't ??
I dont wanna do this again
Rgds
Steve Bradke '68 lla 88

--__--__--

Message: 38
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 14:54:13 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] Fried ammeter
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Alan,

I've got the ammeter in my hands.  Never having broken down a good one, I am
not certain how it should look, but it appears like there are two copper
leaders from each terminal with a little "j" bend on their respective ends.
One of the leads has melted/fused to the other and have brunt in half.

If you have any details on how I can go about fixing it, I would appreciate
it.  I've been quoted $60 from BP to have it rebuilt.

Jeff

on 10/15/01 6:56 AM, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus at [email-masked] wrote:

> 
> Jeff, the meter is a simple iron-vane type - you blew the shunt wire in the
> movement when it shorted.
> 
> If you can be delicate about it, the wire can be easily replaced. Catch me
> offline for details.
> 
> ajr
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 39
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 17:55:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] brake drum removal...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Tue, 16 Oct 2001, Jeff Bieler wrote:

> 
> That's the path I'm working down.  I was hoping someone knew a secret
> code...  
> 
> Much swearing going on at this end.

Heat, followed by penetrating oil, is a nice course.  The oil is wicked
into the gaps.  (And, I shouldn't need to mention this, but WD40 is not a 
penetrating oil.)  

Oh, use anti-seize on the new screws when you put them in.

--__--__--

Message: 40
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 15:03:52 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] Fried ammeter
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Sorry.  That was supposed to be off line...

Jeff

on 10/16/01 2:54 PM, Jeff Bieler at [email-masked] wrote:

> 
> Alan,
> 
> I've got the ammeter in my hands.  Never having broken down a good one, I am
> not certain how it should look, but it appears like there are two copper
> leaders from each terminal with a little "j" bend on their respective ends.
> One of the leads has melted/fused to the other and have brunt in half.
> 
> If you have any details on how I can go about fixing it, I would appreciate
> it.  I've been quoted $60 from BP to have it rebuilt.
> 
> Jeff
> 
> on 10/15/01 6:56 AM, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus at [email-masked] wrote:
> 
>> 
>> Jeff, the meter is a simple iron-vane type - you blew the shunt wire in the
>> movement when it shorted.
>> 
>> If you can be delicate about it, the wire can be easily replaced. Catch me
>> offline for details.
>> 
>> ajr
>> _______________________________________________
>> LRO mailing list
>> [email-masked]
>> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 41
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 15:05:42 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] brake drum removal...
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Been using PB Blaster and a blow torch.  Need to get an impact driver.

Jeff

on 10/16/01 2:55 PM, David Scheidt at [email-masked] wrote:

> 
> On Tue, 16 Oct 2001, Jeff Bieler wrote:
> 
>> 
>> That's the path I'm working down.  I was hoping someone knew a secret
>> code...  
>> 
>> Much swearing going on at this end.
> 
> Heat, followed by penetrating oil, is a nice course.  The oil is wicked
> into the gaps.  (And, I shouldn't need to mention this, but WD40 is not a
> penetrating oil.)
> 
> Oh, use anti-seize on the new screws when you put them in.
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 42
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 18:35:34 -0400
From: Monty Brandenberg <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Bulkhead Draft/ Wheel Fell off
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Sat, 13 Oct 2001 Garrick Olsen wrote:
>
> Bulkhead Draft
> Thanks for the tip about that expanding foam.  I have some left over from
> closing a mouse hole in the "gazebo" (aka mouse house)

That isn't a draft.  That's designed-in interior laminar airflow.
You plug those spaces and your top-end speed will fall off.

--
Monty Brandenberg, Software Consultant                             MCB, Inc.
[email-masked]                                         P.O. Box 426188
[email-masked]                             Cambridge, MA  02142-0021
617.864.6907

--__--__--

Message: 43
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 18:47:42 -0400
From: Monty Brandenberg <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Re: Flame thrower (was terrorism....)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Sun, 14 Oct 2001 S. Vels wrote:
> Vel Natarajan wrote:
>
> > Raw gas is fed out through the exhaust and ingited by a tailpipe mounted
> > spark-plug. ...
> > ... Not something I'd spend my money on, but there's apparently a market for
> > this stuff...
>
> You can have much more fun for less money.
> If you have the block vent hose from the oil filler pipe to the carb, just add
> a quart og two while the engine is running. This will cover the whole
> neighborhood in a wonderful thick white smoke.

Grrrr.  Shortly after buying Flashman some years ago I pulled this
very newbie stunt.  I'd characterize the color as thick blue-grey.
"Sorry, ma'm, I'm carbonizing my exhaust system for improved thermal
characteristics."  :-(

--
Monty Brandenberg, Software Consultant                             MCB,
Inc.
[email-masked]                                         P.O. Box 426188
[email-masked]                             Cambridge, MA  02142-0021
617.864.6907

--__--__--

Message: 44
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Seattle area scales
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 12:51:14 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

What's a 109 take to paint, a gallon at around 10#s???  An airplane has way 
more surface area than the 109 so would probably take 10's of gallons.  As 
soon as we attained air superiority over Germany and Japan, the USAF 
stripped their planes to carry more ordinance and increase speed.  Of course 
the military wasn't concerned about longevity as a 25 mission plane was a 
miracle in '43 and 50 missions was an old lady, later in the war.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

>From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: [email-masked]
>Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Seattle area scales
>Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 10:59:52 -0600
>
>
>Now I need to know - how much does the paint on a plane weigh?
>
>Keith
>
>>By the way, we have several sets of scales at work, but
>>I don't think they'd register anything as light as a Land Rover.
>>We use them to weigh our planes after painting.
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 45
From: "Scott Wickham" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Warn Hubs
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 19:54:32 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Is it absolutely necessary to take  this apart again or will I be asking
for trouble if I don't ??
I dont wanna do this again

  I have a set of those and know the needles your talking about.  They're so
damn over built you'd probably get away with leaving them out but, they're
all there for a reason ;)  Better to distribute the load evenly with them
all in there.  I like to look at things like, "but what if I HAD to drive it
this way".  To get out of the bush, drive it.  To have all the tools right
there and time to do it, you'd better put them back in there.

Scott Wickham Jr.
Pgh., Pa.
Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
'72 SIII
'84 RR
http://backpn7.dmaust.net/

--__--__--

Message: 46
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 20:08:43 -0400
From: asfco <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Warn Hubs
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Scott Wickham wrote:

> Is it absolutely necessary to take  this apart again or will I be asking
> for trouble if I don't ??
> I dont wanna do this again
>
>   I have a set of those and know the needles your talking about.  They're so
> damn over built you'd probably get away with leaving them out but, they're
> all there for a reason ;)  Better to distribute the load evenly with them
> all in there.  I like to look at things like, "but what if I HAD to drive it
> this way".  To get out of the bush, drive it.  To have all the tools right
> there and time to do it, you'd better put them back in there.
>
> Scott Wickham Jr.
> Pgh., Pa.
> Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
> '72 SIII
> '84 RR
> http://backpn7.dmaust.net/
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

Yeah Yeah I know.....I'll do it  I am just tired of getting greasy
will trade  lla for BMW- Z3
Rgds
Steve

--__--__--

Message: 47
To: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 18:03:16 -0600
Subject: Re: [lro] brake drum removal...
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Yeah, and if what  Dave said doesn't work (which it didn't for me last
week, drill through the middle of 'em w/ a small bit, then a 1/4" bit and
then use an EZ out--they came right out that way for me.

bill
> > 
> > Any hints or techniques that might work in the removal of three 
> very solidly
> > seated brake drum nuts?  Got the other three off, but the right 
> rear isn't
> > going anywhere in this lifetime.
> 
> I presume you're talking about the three flat head screws that hold 
> the drum
> on?  Spray your favorite penetrating oil on them.  Then use an 
> impact
> screwdriver on them.  An impact screwdriver is a doo-hickey that you 
> hit
> with a hammer, and it unscrews things; a source of much fun.  If 
> that don't 
> work, apply heat, and then re-apply your favorite penatrating oil.  
> Rinse, 
> lather, repeat. 
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 48
From: "Bill Fishel" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 21:52:16 -0400
Subject: [lro] leaking door seals revisited
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Thanks to everybody for suggestions. I took a good look at the seals on the LH door top and couldn't find anything that looked bad. I still had about a half inch gap towards the front of the door top. I finally figured the frame was bent and twisted the frame back into a more original shape. No more gap at the front of the door top.

Roof gutter still leaks under the skin but I think I found some seam sealer that will work

Bill Fishel

--__--__--

Message: 49
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Seattle area scales
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 19:55:19 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> You think THIS is cold?????  Fall in the northwest is the
> most perfect temperature range I've found anywhere in the
> world.  This is shirtsleeve weather. And I grew up in Hawaii.

I spent 18 years in Maine.  8 in VA and the past 3 in Hawaii.  I have been
slowly thining out my blood.
Picked up the Rover this afternoon.  Drove down to Ft Lewis for a meetting,
Had the windbreaker on and a towel on my lap.  Still ended up being totally
soaked from the knees down.

After the meeting pulled into the exchange to buy some wool socks, snow
pants, hat, and gloves.  There was a 1965 IIa 109 5 door in the parking lot.
Found the owner and exchanged contact info.  Took 4 weeks but finally found
a Rover Sighting ;-)

Pete

--__--__--

Message: 50
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Spring over swap for a Series
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 20:13:06 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>   I found an old article about doing this to a Suzuki Samari, looks pretty
> simple.  Antone know of any web articles/pics of it being done to a Series
> rig?
>

Timm Cooper did the front axel on his 107.
Not sure what axel he has though.
with the Rover axels I would want to move the stearing arms to the top of
the balls.
If you want to rotate the housings to correct pinion angles, you will need
to get double-caradon jointed drive shafts made.  Also with the front you
will need to counter rotate the swivel balls to keep the steering angle
correct.  This will mean having to weld up the ball-to-housing holes and
redrill them in the new position.

Pete

--__--__--

Message: 51
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 22:27:15 -0600
From: Jeremy <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Disco question
Reply-To: [email-masked]

A. P. (Sandy) Grice enlightened recipients with the following on 16Oct2001:
> $40!?!  You are getting off easy!  I wanted the local dealer to 'pull the
> codes' to see what O2 sensors needed replacing.  $140.  No lie...just for
> hooking that bloody Testbook up for a few seconds.

Woah.. Okay, then Denver East Land Rover (as in, colorado US) are really
damn nice!  I called them ON THE PHONE and asked "What does code (blah
blah) mean?" And the tech said "It means the oxy sensor may be dead, but it
probably means your HT leads are having problems".  And they charged me $0.
so, they rock.  Handy too, was in the middle of the wilderness up in very
northern idaho, and the car was chugging along (because some of the HT
leads were falling apart.  Recrimped, happy again.  Need Bosch replacements
though..)

-jeremy
'94 Disco NAS "RTFM"

--__--__--

Message: 52
From: "Rich & Lori Williams" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Seattle area scales
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 21:56:41 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Had the windbreaker on and a towel on my lap.

Next time you pack for a move don't forget to leave out a pair of pants to
wear.

;>)

Rich

--__--__--

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