Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #122 - 30 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 03:04:58 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Source for voltage gauge (David Hope)
   2. Re: (no subject) swivel repair (Terry Joyce)
   3. Re: I'm an LRO!!! (apsilon)
   4. Apology (=?iso-8859-1?q?Robert=20Ries?=)
   5. Re: (no subject) (Alex Maiolo)
   6. Re: I'm an LRO!!! (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
   7. Re: Feel like parting with an ignition switch? (Alex Maiolo)
   8. Re: (no subject) (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
   9. Re: Feel like parting with an ignition switch? (John Karlsson)
  10. Re: Source for voltage gauge (Alex Maiolo)
  11. Help, I need to lose these.... (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  12. Resetting Check Engine Light (Travis Garrett)
  13. Re: Resetting Check Engine Light (d.h.lowe)
  14. Re:swivel repair (Bill Adams)
  15. Re: Feel like parting with an ignition switch? (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  16. Fried ammeter (Jeff Bieler)
  17. Re: Fried ammeter (Jeff Bieler)
  18. Re: Fried ammeter (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  19. Re: (no subject) (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  20. Re: Re:swivel repair (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  21. Re: Fried ammeter (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  22. Rusty balls (A. P. (Sandy) Grice)
  23. Re: Fried ammeter (Jeff Bieler)
  24. Re: Seattle Area Scales (Hope Peter)
  25. Re: pitted balls (Smokey Briggs)
  26. Re: Source for voltage gauge ([email-masked])
  27. Re: pitted balls (Tim Czajka)
  28. Re: Re: pitted balls (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  29. Re: Source for voltage gauge (Elwyn York)
  30. Re: Re:swivel repair (Paul Oxley)

--__--__--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 00:22:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Hope <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Source for voltage gauge
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Can anyone recall the business in England that sells
every conceivable electrical gauge - Smiths, Lucas
etc.  I need a 2 1/16th inch voltage gauge to keep an
eye on my alternator.

David Hope
64 SWB SW
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com

--__--__--

Message: 2
From: "Terry Joyce" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] (no subject) swivel repair
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 17:49:26 +1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

1 remove balls
2 strip the chrome (a plater shold do this for nothing because he gets the
chromium)
3 fill the pits and wear points with bronze or silver bronze. (you need a
gas torch and flux for this), file and polish.
4 re hardchrome
5 refit with new seals

Did this 23 years ago on S1 and still perfect today
Cost about A$20 total (equivalent1975 au dollars).
Regards
Terry

--__--__--

Message: 3
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] I'm an LRO!!!
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 19:34:42 +1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Keep in mind I'm in Australia not the US. These things are a lot more common
here than they appear to be over there and the price differs accordingly.
While I didn't get a bargain I also didn't get ripped off. For US$3500 here
you'd want something pretty close to mint condition. One that I wanted to
look at but was too far away was just released from a private collection,
they were asking US$3000 for it.

Matt.

>
> 2K?!?!?!?!
>
> Strop whining about the price - if it's driveable you have a bargain and a
> half.
>
> I paid 3500 for Mr. Churchill and he was driveable but in need of a
> complete rebuild.....
>
> You are getting off cheap.
>
>                ajr

--__--__--

Message: 4
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 12:33:37 +0100 (BST)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Robert=20Ries?= <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked], [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Apology
Reply-To: [email-masked]

A few days ago I roasted someone about "right to know" in
regards to the current socio-political unrest in the world.  A
list member was very kind to remind me that what I meant to say
was: "The public has a right to know; they do not always
have an immediate 'need to know'." The rest of my reasoning
still has some merit.     

As I hinted in my first post, the danger in this is that one
must have elected/appointed public servants that can be trusted;
this is unfortunately not always the case in real life.  (Recent
spats between Bush and Congress prove my point...)  My
criteria usually boils down to "would I feel safe having this
person guard my children/family?" and all to often the answer is
a resounding NO!  It also presumes that we are the 'good guys'
which also isn't always the complete truth.  

Having lived in Zaire for three years and Japan for several
years in my formative years, I have seen that America is not
always on the side of the angels.  Some of our current conflict
is due to our own national greed, laziness and arrogance. 
Hopefully we can redeem our errors and do better in the future. 

To the people I inadvertantly flamed; I am very sorry that my
haste and laziness lead to inaccurate communication.  I meant no
insult and apologize for any misunderstandings resulting.  Just
goes to prove that fear and ineptitude (mine!) can be powerful
tools of destruction...   I also apologize for the tardiness of
my corrections, as you can imagine, we've been a bit busy
lately.  

"Why can't we all just Rover on?"  -me, deep in my cups...

=====
Robert D. Ries
SSgt, USAF
Burwell, England
"With friends like these..."
Get your free @yahoo.co.uk address at http://mail.yahoo.co.uk
or your free @yahoo.ie address at http://mail.yahoo.ie

--__--__--

Message: 5
From: "Alex Maiolo" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] (no subject)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 08:06:12 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I've been trying to peddle these things for awhile now:
I don't know if they will fit your project, but I have a pair of BRAND NEW
swivel balls.
They will fit a non-ABS Rangie or a D-90. I'm not sure if that crosses over
to Series trucks, but if you know, you're welcome to them.

I have no use for them and I will sell the pair for very little. They are
usually about $250 each, and I'll take $200 for the pair.
If they will fit, that will be a lot better than filling the pits.

Anybody who's interested can email me about them.

Best regards,
Alex Maiolo
Chapel Hill NC

----- Original Message -----
From: <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2001 7:12 PM
Subject: [lro] (no subject)

>
> Alright gang, what specific product has anyone used to seal the dreaded
pits
> in swivel balls? Reference has been made to body filler or epoxy, but
thats
> rather vague.Bondo? Permatex Quickset Epoxy? 3M Glazing putty? The balls
will
> remain on the truck as  I prepare for my first split-seal installation.I'd
> like to do a good enough job to at least get thru winter.Thanks for your
> thoughts
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 6
Subject: Re: [lro] I'm an LRO!!!
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 08:00:36 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Sorry - didn't realize that you were in AU - the price makes sense there
from what I've seen.

Wish I could find good trucks for 2K....8)

                    ajr

--__--__--

Message: 7
From: "Alex Maiolo" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Feel like parting with an ignition switch?
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 08:12:40 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Depending on how original you want to keep your truck, you can buy a starter
switch and two keys for about $7 at any parts store.
It's the generic one that folks use for tractors or old cars.
If you ever lose the keys, it's cheaper to replace the switch than to call a
locksmith!
I'm sure the quality isn't great, but at $7 you can buy about 10 for what an
LR switch costs. Also, it's not a permanent mod, so if you ever want to go
back to original, it's very simple.

Alex Maiolo
Chapel Hill NC

----- Original Message -----
From: "girasoli" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 12:38 AM
Subject: [lro] Feel like parting with an ignition switch?

>
> Hi kids...
>
> Does anyone have a spare key ignition they feel like parting ways with?
>
> As you may know, last week I started my land rover and when I went to turn
the
> key, it wouldn't shut off. Had to flood the engine in order to get it to
stop.
> (Paul from Victoria - thanks for your advice - found out the kill switch
> stopped working long before this little problem). So, if any of you have
one
> lying around, please reply back (or email me off list -
[email-masked]).
> It's for a '67 SEries IIa 88, and it has the headlight switch wrapped
around
> the keyhole (side note: how do you dissasemble this??)
>
> Thanks in advance!
> -Brian
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 8
Subject: Re: [lro] (no subject)
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 08:05:38 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Y'know, now that is an interesting question - will RR swivel balls fit a
Series truck?

Likely not, but speaking as one who has a set of good ones in the parts
yard and bad ones on Miss Jessica the question is of more than academic
interest....8)

               ajr

--__--__--

Message: 9
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 07:58:11 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: John Karlsson <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Feel like parting with an ignition switch?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

At 12:38 AM 10/15/01, Brian wrote:

>Hi kids...
>
>Does anyone have a spare key ignition they feel like parting ways with?

The ignition switch in my '66 IIA died sometime in the early '70s.  The 
headlight part of the switch still worked, so I simply added a spare 
Austin-Healey windshield wiper switch to the dash to serve the ignition 
function, and Bob has been my uncle for over a quarter of a century.

John

--__--__--

Message: 10
From: "Alex Maiolo" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Source for voltage gauge
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 08:18:03 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I have a 2 1/16 voltmeter.
It's a Smiths, I think. It's original Land Rover and Designed to go in the
binnacle of a Defender.
Simple setup - just tap it into the system and it will tell you whether or
not your system is getting power.

If that will do, I'll sell it for cheap, and I'll throw in a naftermarket
oil pressure gauge for free.

Also, for anyone interested, I have a 2 1/16 (original LR parts) clock as
well. It will fit in a standard gauge slot on nearly any Series or Defender,
and it keeps good time.

Alex Maiolo
Chapel Hill NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Hope" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 3:22 AM
Subject: [lro] Source for voltage gauge

>
> Can anyone recall the business in England that sells
> every conceivable electrical gauge - Smiths, Lucas
> etc.  I need a 2 1/16th inch voltage gauge to keep an
> eye on my alternator.
>
> David Hope
> 64 SWB SW
> Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
> http://personals.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 11
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 08:13:51 -0400
Subject: [lro] Help, I need to lose these....
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Apologies for the cross-post, but this stuff has to go.....

She Who Must be Obeyed is on my case - the parts boneyard must be tidied
up.

To that end, I have a pair of Range Rover axles I need to lose. They are a
complete set of axles from a 1990 Rangie with 60 K miles on it, complete
end to end (brake calipers and the like).

The track rods are missing on the front axle, but they were bent anyway, so
got scrapped for the balljoints. The rear is complete, having one brake
caliper dismounted but included. They are externally rusty, having been on
a neglected project chassis before I got them, but still quite good.

I'd like to get $350 OBO for each of them. Obviously, shipping is going to
be a royal beast for something of this weight, so delivery/pickup/dealing
with the issue is extra. I might be persuaded to load them up and deliver
in New England/eastern NYS for gas and tolls.

Talk to me folks, before I have to break them up and scrap the casings...
-ajr

--__--__--

Message: 12
From: "Travis Garrett" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 07:54:07 -0500
Subject: [lro] Resetting Check Engine Light
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I have a '97 Disco LSE 4.0lt.  I had problem with a cylinder misfire this 
passed week.  I replaced the spark plug leads and fixed the problem.  
However, the check engine light was tripped.  Does any one know how to reset 
the Check Engine light?  My local shop is going to charge me $40 and I'm 
betting I can do it myself.  I would appreciate any advice.

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 13
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 09:09:02 -0400
From: "d.h.lowe" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Resetting Check Engine Light
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Disconnect the battery and wait for 30 seconds. Reconnect and then reprogamme
your Radio with the anti theft code
Dave

Travis Garrett wrote:

> I have a '97 Disco LSE 4.0lt.  I had problem with a cylinder misfire this
> passed week.  I replaced the spark plug leads and fixed the problem.
> However, the check engine light was tripped.  Does any one know how to reset
> the Check Engine light?  My local shop is going to charge me $40 and I'm
> betting I can do it myself.  I would appreciate any advice.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 14
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 09:01:49 -0400
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Organization: U.S. International Broadcasting Bureau
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Re:swivel repair
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Terry sez:
1 remove balls
2 strip the chrome (a plater shold do this for nothing because he gets
the
chromium)
3 fill the pits and wear points with bronze or silver bronze. (you need
a
gas torch and flux for this), file and polish.
4 re hardchrome
5 refit with new seals

Jeez, by the time you've gone through all that, you'd be ahead of the
game buying new! How many hours does it take to schlep the balls to a
plater, pick them up, set up your brazing kit (if you have one and the
expertise to do a proper job), braze, file smooth and polish, schlep the
balls back to the plater, schlep them back home from the plater?
Wouldn't it be more cost effective to pick up a phone, dial a number and
order the parts? You save time and money by not expending efort on
trying to save a wasted part.
I just don't see any benefit from trying to save these things. Post
after post about epoxy,and lord knows whatever else kind of goop to
slather on them. I think the best thing to do is bite the bullet and
install the new parts.
-- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

--__--__--

Message: 15
Subject: Re: [lro] Feel like parting with an ignition switch?
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 01 06:49:54 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Naw, this is just a standard Series II or early IIA switch.  I don't have a
>spare but I'm sure that Wise Owl, or one of the other suppliers that stock
>used parts would.  I know that Ray at Wise Owl was breaking a Series II a
>while ago.

I know it is against some people's religion.  But the early Series II, 
IIA double ignition/headlamp switch is still in production.  You need to 
reuse the headlamp switch lever you you can otherwise still obtain whole 
new switches.

Sometimes you can open up a switch and make repairs.  But if you try a 
repair you need to know there is a spring inside that gernades the guts 
if you don't hold on tight (ask me how I know) and seperate the parts 
slowly.  And have a towel underneath to collect a ball bearing or two 
(Never did find them).

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 16
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 06:50:04 -0700
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: Land Rovers <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Fried ammeter
Reply-To: [email-masked]

While heading out to Truckhaven on Friday to join a Rover group for a
weekend of guns and Rovers, I suffered a small electrical fire that wound up
being caused by the ground wire connecting the instrument gauges contacting
the ammeter and frying both the ground wire and the meter. Just a little too
much vibration after 4 hours at freeways speeds I guess.

Any suggestions on locating a replacement meter? I was told the meters are
NLA. but could be rebuilt...? I struggle with mechanical issues. Electrical
issues are ones I understand even less.

In the meantime, the meter is being bypassed and the truck performed
admirably amongst the other assorted Rovers  (D1's, DII's, D90, Classics)
and got me home safe and sound.

Got about 16.5MPG on the highway doing 50~55MPH for the 180 miles each way.

Jeff

--__--__--

Message: 17
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 06:53:22 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] Fried ammeter
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I guess I should state (just in case) that the meter is in a 1965 IIA and is
the small meter in the cluster that contains the fuel guage and the hi beam
indicator.

Jeff

on 10/15/01 6:50 AM, Jeff Bieler at [email-masked] wrote:

> 
> While heading out to Truckhaven on Friday to join a Rover group for a
> weekend of guns and Rovers, I suffered a small electrical fire that wound up
> being caused by the ground wire connecting the instrument gauges contacting
> the ammeter and frying both the ground wire and the meter. Just a little too
> much vibration after 4 hours at freeways speeds I guess.
> 
> Any suggestions on locating a replacement meter? I was told the meters are
> NLA. but could be rebuilt...? I struggle with mechanical issues. Electrical
> issues are ones I understand even less.
> 
> In the meantime, the meter is being bypassed and the truck performed
> admirably amongst the other assorted Rovers  (D1's, DII's, D90, Classics)
> and got me home safe and sound.
> 
> Got about 16.5MPG on the highway doing 50~55MPH for the 180 miles each way.
> 
> Jeff
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 18
Subject: Re: [lro] Fried ammeter
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 09:56:49 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Jeff, the meter is a simple iron-vane type - you blew the shunt wire in the
movement when it shorted.

If you can be delicate about it, the wire can be easily replaced. Catch me
offline for details.

                         ajr

--__--__--

Message: 19
Subject: Re: [lro] (no subject)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 01 07:10:33 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Y'know, now that is an interesting question - will RR swivel balls fit a
>Series truck?

Coilers have lighter cost reduced swivel ball assemblies that have 
significantly less metal than a series assembly.  That is one of those 
assemblies that you do not want to move over from a colier to a series 
rig.  Unless you want stock RR disk brakes or alloy wheels real badly.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 20
Subject: Re: [lro] Re:swivel repair
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 01 07:36:05 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>I just don't see any benefit from trying to save these things. Post
>after post about epoxy,and lord knows whatever else kind of goop to
>slather on them. I think the best thing to do is bite the bullet and
>install the new parts.

I think with many series owners it has become some kind of contest to see 
how many repairs can be made without resorting to a new Land Rover part.  
With others it is a matter of how long can one actually still start and 
move a series rig without new Land Rover parts.  I've seen Rovers show up 
to local field meets year after year with the same major mechanical 
problem.  I know they can not be putting any miles on them.

I was particulay struck by a long thread a couple years ago about all the 
jury rigs to stop the transfercase high low lever from rattling after the 
<$2 anti rattle spring falls off.  Hunderds of e-mail lines written about 
bungie cords & such and not one about thoughts on better ways to keep the 
anti rattle spring from escaping in the first place (like tack welding 
one end in place).

WHen someone is willing to spend 40 plus hours to keep from buying a less 
than $100 part you know it is for a reason other than parts cost vs hours 
of your life.  It has got to be something in the challange catagory.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 21
Subject: Re: [lro] Fried ammeter
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 01 07:44:57 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Any suggestions on locating a replacement meter? I was told the meters are
>NLA. but could be rebuilt...? I struggle with mechanical issues. Electrical
>issues are ones I understand even less.

WHere are you at?  I may have one in my used meter box.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 22
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 11:01:22 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: "A. P. (Sandy) Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Rusty balls
Reply-To: [email-masked]

[email-masked] wrote:

>Alright gang, what specific product has anyone used to seal the dreaded pits 
>in swivel balls? Reference has been made to body filler or epoxy, but thats 
>rather vague.Bondo? Permatex Quickset Epoxy? 3M Glazing putty? The balls
will 
>remain on the truck as  I prepare for my first split-seal installation.

JB Weld is the epoxy flavor of choice, but to do a good job, you gotta
remove them.  First, for the epoxy to have a chance to stick, the surfaces
have to be antiseptically clean, with rust/whatnot cleaned out with a
Dremel or steel wool.  Secondly, the chrome parts should be washed in the
sink to remove even traces of solvent and dried in a warm oven, with the
epoxy applied while the balls are still warm so it 'kicks off' right quick
and bonds well.  Then you have to do a judicious job of filing with mill
files, Dremel, whatever, and then smoothing with emery paper, which likely
will not be possible in situ.  Do it right once or plan on doing it again
next spring....

Cheers

	*-----"jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is legendary"----*
	|                 A. P. "Sandy" Grice                  |
	|    The Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd    |
	|     1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
	|     757-622-7054  (H)423-4898  (FAX)757-622-7056     |
	*------------------------------------------------------*

--__--__--

Message: 23
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 07:50:40 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] Fried ammeter
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I'm in West Los Angeles.

I called Tim at BP from the roadside for his thoughts while I had the whole
mess uncoiled in my lap.  He said it's rebuildable, but I haven't torn the
meter apart to look at it yet.  Now that I am home, I'm going to run around
and do post run maintainance and will pull the dash again to see what I'm
faced with.

Jeff

on 10/15/01 7:44 AM, TeriAnn Wakeman at [email-masked] wrote:

> 
>> Any suggestions on locating a replacement meter? I was told the meters are
>> NLA. but could be rebuilt...? I struggle with mechanical issues. Electrical
>> issues are ones I understand even less.
> 
> WHere are you at?  I may have one in my used meter box.
> 
> TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
> Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW -
> [email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message
> 
> http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman
> 
> "How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
> Amelia Earhart 1898-1937
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 24
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Seattle Area Scales
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 07:52:25 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Thanks Rich.  Am going to try the ones on this side.
 If anyone sees a sand softtop 88 sans windows in Seattle 5 to 16 to 3
around noon tomorrow give a honk, its me.  If I don't respond, probably
because I am to frozen to move.
Don't know what I was thinking, let the movers packup all of my goretex, all
I have with me is a nylon pullover and a sweatshirt.
Pete

> Pete - if you are still having trouble finding a scale, I've got one for
you
> in Redmond.  Out of the way but it's there.  Email for details if
necessary.
> Rich

--__--__--

Message: 25
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 10:20:20 -0500
Subject: Re: [lro] pitted balls
From: Smokey Briggs <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

John,

Pull the balls first. I had the same problem. Was fairly intimidated by the
front end. Also have Warn hubs to further complicate the matter. Following
the step by step in the Green Bible it was a snap. Had to buy/make two
tools. A fish scale for measuring the load on the steering arm and a big
socket to fit the big nut that holds it all together. I ended up filing a
3/4" drive proto socket to fit but such things are also sold. That was the
toughest part of the job (other than resisting ship fitters disease. I
couldn't and replaced almost everything (and it needed it) especially the
bearings. 

It took three partial weekends ordering parts on Monday and back to it on
Saturday. But it really was easy.

I have 8,000 miles on the repair (West Texas you cover some distance) and
plenty of time in deep sand. No problem with leakage at the seal.

I used JB weld and a good hard epoxy paint. Sand blasted the balls until
clean in the pits, washed with solvent and then soapy water then dried in
the oven. A good coat of JB that was then sanded and sanded and sanded and
sanded. Then three good coats of paint.

But really, pulling the swivels was the wasy part.

Smokey Briggs
Pecos, Texas

> From: [email-masked]
> Reply-To: [email-masked]
> Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 19:12:34 EDT
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: [lro] (no subject)
> 
> 
> Alright gang, what specific product has anyone used to seal the dreaded pits
> in swivel balls? Reference has been made to body filler or epoxy, but thats
> rather vague.Bondo? Permatex Quickset Epoxy? 3M Glazing putty? The balls will
> remain on the truck as  I prepare for my first split-seal installation.I'd
> like to do a good enough job to at least get thru winter.Thanks for your
> thoughts   
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 26
From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 13:08:01 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] Source for voltage gauge
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 10/15/01 3:25:17 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> Can anyone recall the business in England that sells
> every conceivable electrical gauge - Smiths, Lucas
> etc.  I need a 2 1/16th inch voltage gauge to keep an
> eye on my alternator.
> 
> 

Try Gower Oaks

http://www.gower-oaks.co.uk/

Nate

--__--__--

Message: 27
From: "Tim Czajka" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 12:41:19 -0600
Subject: [lro] Re: pitted balls
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Smokey Briggs wrote:
>A good coat of JB that was then sanded and sanded and sanded and sanded. 
>Then three good coats of paint.
>
What about not painting?  I repaired one of my swivel
balls with JB Weld and with some sanding have gotten
it fairly smooth.  Good enough to work well with the
oil seal I think.  What good will painting the balls
do?  Much of my swivel ball still has good chrome and
I am thinking paint will eventually flake off and
cause a mess and poor sealing.  Is the paint holding
up and what are thoughts on skipping the paint?

Tim Czajka
1972 Series III 88

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 28
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: pitted balls
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 14:52:53 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

TREVOR! Yo, TREVOR ! How go the French Blue gaitered balls after what, 5
years?

Trevor is the genius that came up with this idea lo these many years
ago...I'm curious how the truck with them has held up, if he still owns it.

                    ajr

--__--__--

Message: 29
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 21:02:40 +0100
To: [email-masked]
From: Elwyn York <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Source for voltage gauge
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Is this the small landrover size hole for the dash or not? If so, I have a 
voltage gauge. Where are you?

At 15/10/01 Monday 00:22, you wrote:

>Can anyone recall the business in England that sells
>every conceivable electrical gauge - Smiths, Lucas
>etc.  I need a 2 1/16th inch voltage gauge to keep an
>eye on my alternator.
>
>David Hope
>64 SWB SW
>Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
>http://personals.yahoo.com
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
>
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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Elwyn York   ICQ: 17087824
S3 Lightweight. West Midlands
http://ltwt.gq.nu/
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--__--__--

Message: 30
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 07:45:26 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re:swivel repair
Reply-To: [email-masked]

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
> I've seen Rovers show up to local field meets year after year with the same major > mechanical problem. 

Oi! I resemble that remark...

I had a maddening tic-tic sound in my 84 V8 110 since 1999, that we only
managed to track down to 5 (five) loose cylinder sleeves this year (Oh!
And one of the main bearing caps cracked in three separate pieces).

> I know they can not be putting any miles on them.

Actually it did 80 000 km's of heavy safari driving throughout southern
Africa during this time :-{)}

Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

--__--__--

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