Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #121 - 26 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 03:04:27 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Replacing starter motor (Neil Brownlee)
   2. Re: Replacing starter motor (David Scheidt)
   3. Re: Leaking door seals (John Karlsson)
   4. Re: Seattle Area Scales (Hope Peter)
   5. Re: Looking for antique jack part (Lonn & Rhonda)
   6. Re: I'm an LRO!!! (Keith Tanner)
   7. Re: Seattle Area Scales (Rich & Lori Williams)
   8. Re: Seattle Area Scales (Hope Peter)
   9. Drill now or later? (Keith Tanner)
  10. Re: Drill now or later? (William J. Rice)
  11. Re: In defense of Lucar connectors: ([email-masked])
  12. Re: Seattle Area Scales ([email-masked])
  13. Re: Leaking door seals ([email-masked])
  14. (no subject) ([email-masked])
  15. Re: (no subject) ([email-masked])
  16. Re: Seattle Area Scales (Rich & Lori Williams)
  17. Re: Seattle Area Scales (Jim Hall)
  18. Re: (no subject) (CW - Carey Woodings)
  19. Re: Leaking door seals (Jean-Leon Morin)
  20. Re: Seattle Area Scales (David Scheidt)
  21. Starters (A. P. "Sandy" Grice)
  22. RE: Turn Signal Lens Repair (Vel Natarajan)
  23. Re: Starters (Brett Storey)
  24. Feel like parting with an ignition switch? (girasoli)
  25. Re: Feel like parting with an ignition switch? (Lonn & Rhonda)
  26. Re: Feel like parting with an ignition switch? (Paul Quin)

--__--__--

Message: 1
From: "Neil Brownlee" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Replacing starter motor
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 13:46:39 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Yuo can actually replace the starter motor without using the Haynes, "remove
the exhaust" method. It's a bit fiddly, but since I snapped two studs on
mine the first time, I've undone the bolts on the starter and slid it up the
chassis rail. Yes, it;s fiddly, BUT, you don;t have the hassle of possibly
shearing the studs in the exhaust! In the UK, the starter is under the worst
possible studs to shear!

-------------------------------------------------------------

Neil

1978 Land Rover Series III 109" Ex-MOD - 'Harriet'
1997 Land Rover Discovery V8i ES - 'Piglet' - XD9000i, Terrain Master Winch
Bumper & Hi-Lift carrier, Bearmach steering/sump guard, Mantec Side
Protection Sills, Scorpion Racing +2" suspension lift, De-Carbon Shocks,
Southdown Fuel Tank Guard, 235/85/16  Goodyear Wrangler MT/R's, WH
Wheelcarriers Diff Guards, JE Engineering 4 Tailpipe SS Exhaust, Safari
Snorkel
1998 Land Rover Freelander - 'Misty'

http://www.landroverdiscoveryv8i.freeservers.com
http://community.webshots.com/user/landroverdiscoveryv8i

--__--__--

Message: 2
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 09:10:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Replacing starter motor
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Sun, 14 Oct 2001, Neil Brownlee wrote:

> 
> Yuo can actually replace the starter motor without using the Haynes, "remove
> the exhaust" method. It's a bit fiddly, but since I snapped two studs on
> mine the first time, I've undone the bolts on the starter and slid it up the
> chassis rail. Yes, it;s fiddly, BUT, you don;t have the hassle of possibly
> shearing the studs in the exhaust! In the UK, the starter is under the worst
> possible studs to shear!
> 

well, there are (at least) two starters used on land-rovers.  They're
interchangagle, same part number.  One's bigger than the other, and doesn't
fit past the exhaust.  

David

--__--__--

Message: 3
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 09:24:53 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: John Karlsson <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Leaking door seals
Reply-To: [email-masked]

At 01:57 AM 10/14/01, Bill Fishel wrote:

>Thanks everybody
>I'll be ordering the seals from JC Whitless.
>
>Lonn, I'm interested in the product you were talking about for sealing the 
>top skin to the rain gutter.

I think the product you are looking for is brushable seam sealer.

John

--__--__--

Message: 4
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Seattle Area Scales
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 07:10:07 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Great idea, thanks

>
> Most recycling or garbage depots have scales where they weigh you in and
> out.  They probably wouldn't mind giving you a reading.  I weighed my
Rover
> this way once out of curiosity.

--__--__--

Message: 5
From: "Lonn & Rhonda" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Looking for antique jack part
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 08:46:07 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Have Apple Hydraulics resleeve the beast.
Lonn

----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew H. Litkowiak" <[email-masked]>
To: "Land Rover List" <[email-masked]>
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 9:19 PM
Subject: [lro] Looking for antique jack part

>
> Hello, one and all,
>
> I'm in the process of restoring and old hydraulic floor jack and I
> need some parts/repair source help.
>
> The unit is a Walker Model 882 Series B
>
> I need either the main cylinder piston sleeve, an entire functional
> cylinder or someone who can repair my existing unit. The inner
sleeve
> is so badly pitted that honing would be futile.
>
> Any clues would be great.
>
> Andy Litkowiak
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 6
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 09:55:13 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] I'm an LRO!!!
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I paid about $2k US for Basil. Of course, he hadn't moved under his own 
power for 10 years.

Welcome aboard, Matt!

Keith
------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

--__--__--

Message: 7
From: "Rich & Lori Williams" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Seattle Area Scales
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 11:03:31 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> ps.  Yes we finally made it to Bremerton.

Pete - WELCOME to the area!

 - Rich

> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 8
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Seattle Area Scales
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 12:12:33 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> > ps.  Yes we finally made it to Bremerton.
> 
> WELCOME to the area!

> YYYYeeeSSSS!!!!  Welcome!

> Glad to see that you made it.

Thanks all
P

--__--__--

Message: 9
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 14:15:44 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Drill now or later?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In the process of stripping the last bits off my "new" frame, a few bolts 
sacrificed themselves in a futile effort to keep everything attached. 
Should I bother to drill them out and clean up or tap the threads now or 
should I just wait until after the galvanizing?

Keith
------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

--__--__--

Message: 10
To: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 13:03:04 -0600
Subject: Re: [lro] Drill now or later?
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Drill now.  Tap after.
Some of the holes on my new 109 SW T-pieces were tapped and weren't hard
at all to drill out  a tad and re-tap after being dipped.  Drilling now
will at least make the hole's correct location painfully obvious, while
leaving a sheared off bolt in the hole might make it hard to find, let
alone find precisely enough to drill through on center.

bill

On Sun, 14 Oct 2001 14:15:44 -0400 Keith Tanner <[email-masked]> writes:
> 
> In the process of stripping the last bits off my "new" frame, a few 
> bolts 
> sacrificed themselves in a futile effort to keep everything 
> attached. 
> Should I bother to drill them out and clean up or tap the threads 
> now or 
> should I just wait until after the galvanizing?
> 
> Keith
> ------------
> Keith's page de home:
>     http://keith.miata.net
> ------------
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 11
To: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 17:22:50 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] In defense of Lucar connectors:
From: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Getting syringes can be a hassle here in the suburbs of Washington DC. 
The farm supply store owners don't want the DEA on their backs, so they
can play 20 questions with you until they are satisfied that you are not
some junky.  Kind of crazy but the way it is.  I use large (50 cc+) ones
to add water to my small scale live steam locomotives.  At a Southern
States Coop. I once asked for the largest syringe they had.  The clerk
replied "what are you injecting into what kind of animal",  to which I
replied "I'm injecting water into a iron horse".  Revenge can be so
sweet.

Chris hall
> 
> another thing I like about this list is the little tips that you 
> read every
> now and again and say, 'good one'.
>  I have a couple of animal syringes (bigger!) with various 
> substances in,
> but I'd never thought of this one. Thanks Chris...
> Best Cheers
> 
> Frank
>     +--+--+--+
>      I !__|  [_]|_\___
>      I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
>      "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

--__--__--

Message: 12
To: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 17:56:29 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] Seattle Area Scales
From: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Also try rock quarry and gravel pits.

Chris
On Sat, 13 Oct 2001 21:58:14 -0700 "Paul Quin" <[email-masked]> writes:
> 
> Most recycling or garbage depots have scales where they weigh you in 
> and
> out.  They probably wouldn't mind giving you a reading.  I weighed 
> my Rover
> this way once out of curiosity.
> 
> 
> Paul in Victoria.

--__--__--

Message: 13
To: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 18:09:14 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] Leaking door seals
From: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

3M Utrapro brushable seam sealer.  I have trouble with the small tubes
separating, and the large pouches seem to half set in the pouch if they
get too old.  The last box I bought ($70US) is junk because it is half
set.  It works great when it is right, just be careful and don't buy
something that looks like it has been on the shelf a long time.  I buy
from a high volume body shop supply house.  If you need 3M part numbers I
have them at work just let me know.

Chris
On Sun, 14 Oct 2001 09:24:53 -0400 John Karlsson <[email-masked]>
writes:
> 
> At 01:57 AM 10/14/01, Bill Fishel wrote:
> 
> >Thanks everybody
> >I'll be ordering the seals from JC Whitless.
> >
> >Lonn, I'm interested in the product you were talking about for 
> sealing the 
> >top skin to the rain gutter.
> 
> 
> I think the product you are looking for is brushable seam sealer.
> 
> John
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 14
From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 19:12:34 EDT
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] (no subject)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Alright gang, what specific product has anyone used to seal the dreaded pits 
in swivel balls? Reference has been made to body filler or epoxy, but thats 
rather vague.Bondo? Permatex Quickset Epoxy? 3M Glazing putty? The balls will 
remain on the truck as  I prepare for my first split-seal installation.I'd 
like to do a good enough job to at least get thru winter.Thanks for your 
thoughts   

--__--__--

Message: 15
From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 19:44:43 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] (no subject)
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 10/14/2001 7:15:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

<< Alright gang, what specific product has anyone used to seal the dreaded 
pits 
 in swivel balls?  >>

JB Cold Weld--a two part epoxy glue.

Nate

--__--__--

Message: 16
From: "Rich & Lori Williams" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Seattle Area Scales
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 16:53:16 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Also try rock quarry and gravel pits.

Ah Ha!

Pete - if you are still having trouble finding a scale, I've got one for you
in Redmond.  Out of the way but it's there.  Email for details if necessary.

Rich

--__--__--

Message: 17
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 18:28:15 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Seattle Area Scales
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Also any scrapyard should have one.

Rich & Lori Williams wrote:
> 
> > Also try rock quarry and gravel pits.
> 

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 18
From: "CW - Carey Woodings" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] (no subject)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 19:44:28 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

[ [email-masked] asks:
[
[ Alright gang, what specific product has anyone
[ used to seal the dreaded pits in swivel balls?
[ Reference has been made to body filler or epoxy,
[ but thats rather vague.  Bondo? Permatex Quickset
[ Epoxy? 3M Glazing putty? The balls will remain
[ on the truck as I prepare for my first split-seal
[ installation.
[
JB Weld is the epoxy You want to use.  But I don't think you can repair the 
swivel ball this way without removing it.  The first problem is getting it 
clean enough for the epoxy to work right.  The second is reshaping the epoxy 
to get the desired smooth surface.  It's not that hard to remove them, just 
takes time, but I think you'll be disappointed with the results of the epoxy 
repair if you try it without removing them.
      ____________
     /____________\     Cheers,   CW
     !     !!     !
     !_____!!_____!
   O !===[[[]]]===! O
    \__ -------- __/
    !..!( )##( )!..!    Carey Woodings           AND NOW
    !  !########!  !    "Nessie the Antique      a 1988
    !  !#O####O#!  !    Monster" Bronze Green    Range Rover
    ================    1962 SIIA SWB SW         Deb's Daily
     !!      ~   !!                                    Driver
     !!  ~~ ~ ~~ !!     1968 SIIA LWB Marshall Bodied
           ~~           Ambulance awaiting restoration

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 19
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Leaking door seals
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 21:22:57 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

1988 dodge colt 4 door (100 series) door seals are awesome. U shaped. Steel
reinforced.

Your local junkyard has oodles of the stuff, just yank it off and you can do
the entire vehicle with one colt. I paid (too much) 10$ canadian.

No need to grind off lip, simply slip over, trim to length, and enjoy.

J-L

----- Original Message -----
From: Lonn Howard <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 8:19 PM
Subject: Re: [lro] Leaking door seals

>
> Oh boy Bill, you want your cake and eat it too?
>
> For the doors, peruse the JCWhitney catalog for a U-shaped door seal that
> you can glue to the body side of the door opening.  You want the U to face
> up or out to catch the water and channel it away.  An additional slim flat
> seal may be added to the door to take up any additional space and to
ensure
> a tight seal.  Remember, we don't care about originality, we care about
> staying dry...
>
> The hard top is dead simple.  Is the water pooling in the inside of the
roof
> channel and draining on the dash and your lap when you brake or turn?  The
> reason you are getting wet is because the original caulk has dryed out and
> lost the ability to seal the roof skin to the edge channel so that all the
> water runs off the roof, into the channel, then into your lap.  Clean the
> channel by removing all the loose old caulk that you can.  Use a pick,
wire
> brush, pnuematic jackhammer... if you are careful you can remove the paint
> and caulk from the channel and not be able to see it from the ground.
When
> the channel area is ready use a self-leveling paintable sealer and a small
> brush to flow it into the channel.  Tape the drain slots from underneith
so
> it doesn't flow onto the body!  You can cut the slots open after it sets.
I
> can't remember off the top of my head what the product name is... I'll
check
> when I get home.  No more leaky roof.
>
> Is the roof leaking when you are careening down the highway in a torrent?
> Replace the seal between the top of the windscreen and the hardtop.  No
more
> leaky roof.
>
> Later,
> Lonn
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Fishel" <[email-masked]>
> To: <[email-masked]>
> Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 11:53 AM
> Subject: [lro] Leaking door seals
>
>
> >
> > OK
> > I know its a big joke about everything leaking on a Rover but I'm tired
of
> getting wet and things inside being washed against their will.
> >
> > What are some REASONABLE things that can be done to seal the doors? New
> genuine door seals or something aftermarket. I've heard D90 door seals
will
> work if the lip on the door surround is ground off. Worth the hassle?
> >
> > The station wagon hard top also leaks were the skin meets the rain
gutter.
> The water runs under the skin and drips on the dash and floor inside. Is
> there any kind of sealer that can be used that would wick in under the
skin
> to make a good seal.
> >
> > Moving to the desert at this time is not an option.
> >
> > Bill Fishel
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 20
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 22:14:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Seattle Area Scales
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Sun, 14 Oct 2001, Jim Hall wrote:

> 
> Also any scrapyard should have one.
> 

As well as most truck stops.   

--__--__--

Message: 21
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 22:49:33 -0500
To: [email-masked]
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Starters
Reply-To: [email-masked]

"C. Marin Faure" <[email-masked]> wrote:

>I replaced the starter motor in my Series III today, a very easy job
>assuming you have no problems getting the nuts off the exhaust pipe studs
>on the manifold.  I didn't have any trouble, but on a vehicle with rusted
>or corroded studs, this could turn a simple job into a really big job.

You don't need to remove anything to remove a Series III starter.  There is
*just* enough clearance and wiggle room to take the unit out the top, Dyer
gear first, between the manifold and the bulkhead.  Can't do that with a
IIa starter that is about .5" longer....

>Anyway, my rebuilt starter has a broad metal band around the end of the
>motor housing.  This band is supposed to help support some of the internal
>components by providing better clamping pressure or something. 

This is the IIa style starter.  The units are interchangeable, 'cept for
the IIa being longer and can't be removed out the top....

Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is legendary-----*
  |                                                    |
  |              A. P. "Sandy" Grice                   |
  |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
  |  (757)423-4898  (757)622-7054  FAX (757)622-7056   |
  |                                                    |
  *----1972 Series III 88"----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

--__--__--

Message: 22
From: "Vel Natarajan" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Cc: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Turn Signal Lens Repair
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 22:30:14 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

What's different about the lens kits that A.B. and R.N. and others sell
compared to the original lenses?

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf
> Of [email-masked]
>
> Lurch has been running around for 25 years with an epoxied Wipac lens
> that is as unobtainable today as it was then.

--__--__--

Message: 23
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 23:39:51 -0400
From: Brett Storey <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Starters
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I must be leading a charmed life then, cause I can remove and install both
Series III and IIa starters on my SIII without moving the front pipe. I find if
I crank the steering wheel all the way to the right, all the steering bits in
the engine bay move enough to give me just enough room. It's tight... but
doable.

Brett

"A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" wrote:

> You don't need to remove anything to remove a Series III starter.  There is
> *just* enough clearance and wiggle room to take the unit out the top, Dyer
> gear first, between the manifold and the bulkhead.  Can't do that with a
> IIa starter that is about .5" longer....

--__--__--

Message: 24
From: "girasoli" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 00:38:35 -0400
Subject: [lro] Feel like parting with an ignition switch?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi kids...

Does anyone have a spare key ignition they feel like parting ways with?

As you may know, last week I started my land rover and when I went to turn the
key, it wouldn't shut off. Had to flood the engine in order to get it to stop.
(Paul from Victoria - thanks for your advice - found out the kill switch
stopped working long before this little problem). So, if any of you have one
lying around, please reply back (or email me off list - [email-masked]).
It's for a '67 SEries IIa 88, and it has the headlight switch wrapped around
the keyhole (side note: how do you dissasemble this??)

Thanks in advance!
-Brian

--__--__--

Message: 25
From: "Lonn & Rhonda" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Feel like parting with an ignition switch?
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 22:05:19 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Sounds like a military switch to me... did the civilian models use a
similar setup?

If it is military, I can help you out.

Lonn

----- Original Message -----
From: "girasoli" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2001 9:38 PM
Subject: [lro] Feel like parting with an ignition switch?

>
> Hi kids...
>
> Does anyone have a spare key ignition they feel like parting ways
with?
>
> As you may know, last week I started my land rover and when I went
to turn the
> key, it wouldn't shut off. Had to flood the engine in order to get
it to stop.
> (Paul from Victoria - thanks for your advice - found out the kill
switch
> stopped working long before this little problem). So, if any of you
have one
> lying around, please reply back (or email me off list -
[email-masked]).
> It's for a '67 SEries IIa 88, and it has the headlight switch
wrapped around
> the keyhole (side note: how do you dissasemble this??)
>
> Thanks in advance!
> -Brian
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 26
From: "Paul Quin" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Feel like parting with an ignition switch?
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 23:20:21 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Naw, this is just a standard Series II or early IIA switch.  I don't have a
spare but I'm sure that Wise Owl, or one of the other suppliers that stock
used parts would.  I know that Ray at Wise Owl was breaking a Series II a
while ago.

Paul in Victoria.

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