Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #120 - 29 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 03:09:19 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Re: Flame thrower (was terrorism..... (S. Vels)
   2. Re: In defense of Lucar connectors: (Frank Elson)
   3. Re: Engine No (Mark Pilkington)
   4. Turn Signal Lens Repair ([email-masked])
   5. Re: In defense of Lucar connectors: ([email-masked])
   6. Re: In defense of Lucar connectors: (Scott Wickham)
   7. Re: In defense of Lucar connectors: (Kirk Hillman)
   8. Leaking door seals (Bill Fishel)
   9. Re: Brakes:  converting from a single-circuit, non-servo (Scott Wickham)
  10. Re: Brakes: converting from a single-circuit, non-servo (Peter Ogilvie)
  11. Re: Leaking door seals (Paul Quin)
  12. Re: Bulkhead Draft/ Wheel Fell off (Scott Wickham)
  13. Getting the shaft-right (Garrick Olsen)
  14. Re: In defense of Lucar connectors: (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  15. Re: Leaking door seals (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  16. Re: In defense of Lucar connectors: (Keith Tanner)
  17. Re: Leaking door seals (Lonn Howard)
  18. Re: Leaking door seals (William J. Rice)
  19. Re: terror hoaxes (C. Marin Faure)
  20. Re: Leaking door seals (N Forbes)
  21. Seattle Area Scales (Hope Peter)
  22. Replacing starter motor (C. Marin Faure)
  23. I'm an LRO!!! (apsilon)
  24. Looking for antique jack part (Andrew H. Litkowiak)
  25. Re: I'm an LRO!!! (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  26. Re: Looking for antique jack part (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  27. Re: Seattle Area Scales (Paul Quin)
  28. Re: Seattle Area Scales (Bryan Hoult)
  29. Re: Leaking door seals (Bill Fishel)

--__--__--

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 12:48:36 +0200
From: "S. Vels" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Flame thrower (was terrorism.....
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Vel Natarajan wrote:

> Raw gas is fed out through the exhaust and ingited by a tailpipe mounted
> spark-plug. ...
> ... Not something I'd spend my money on, but there's apparently a market for
> this stuff...

You can have much more fun for less money.
If you have the block vent hose from the oil filler pipe to the carb, just add
a quart og two while the engine is running. This will cover the whole
neighborhood in a wonderful thick white smoke.
Or if you clean your valves with sparkling water(my no. 4 exh. cokes up
regularly), you can cover a whole parking lot in a black opaque smoke.
Keep the visual effects simple to suit the original Landy design.

rgds
sv/aurens

--__--__--

Message: 2
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] In defense of Lucar connectors:
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 11:42:19 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Chris Hall writes: >>>> I keep a 5cc syringe loaded with lithium dielectric
grease for just such
> purposes.<<<

another thing I like about this list is the little tips that you read every
now and again and say, 'good one'.
 I have a couple of animal syringes (bigger!) with various substances in,
but I'd never thought of this one. Thanks Chris...
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

--__--__--

Message: 3
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 08:31:28 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Engine No
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I think it stands for "Slow"

Lance da Silva wrote:

> I have fitted a 2.25l replacement engine to my 109. It is a 5 Main Brg engine. What puzzles me is that there is a
> S stamped on the engine block at the start of the engine No. This S does not look part of the original engine marking. Any
> clues
> Lance
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 4
From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 12:05:43 EDT
Subject: [lro] Turn Signal Lens Repair
To: [email-masked]
CC: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Fri, 12 Oct 2001 Paul Quinn inquired:

<<I managed to cleave one of my plastic rear turn signal covers in two
yesterday while washing the Rover.  Has anyone had success gluing these back
together?>>

Yes.  Lurch has been running around for 25 years with an epoxied Wipac lens 
that is as unobtainable today as it was then.  You will want to make sure the 
two halves are absolutely clean before epoxying them.  Also make sure you mix 
the epoxy very thoroughly.  Allow it to cure thoroughly before reinstalling 
the lens.

Paul Donohue
1965 Land Rover 109
Denver Colorado

--__--__--

Message: 5
From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 12:57:02 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] In defense of Lucar connectors:
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 10/11/01 9:45:34 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> I keep a 5cc syringe loaded with lithium dielectric grease for just such
> purposes.
> 
> 

That's going to be some surprised junkie!.
Zack

--__--__--

Message: 6
From: "Scott Wickham" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] In defense of Lucar connectors:
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 14:37:46 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Okay, I have to comment here.
dash lights: red
side lights: red
taillights: red
main beam warning light: red

So if I'm behind the dash and trying to find the other end of the wire that
goes to the inoperative taillights, I know it's one of the four red ones.
Hmm.

  That sounds like what I do on Sherman, all the wires are red.  That way I
know which ones I've put in ;)  Sort of like job security, your the only one
who knows what's going on.

Scooter

--__--__--

Message: 7
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] In defense of Lucar connectors:
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 12:39:50 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Only four red wires?  How is it that you only have four back there?  :-)

The previous owner really tried hard to ensure his job security by replacing
all wires with red ones... when I redo it I might have to do the same.  ;-)

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 8
From: "Bill Fishel" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 14:53:58 -0400
Subject: [lro] Leaking door seals
Reply-To: [email-masked]

OK 
I know its a big joke about everything leaking on a Rover but I'm tired of getting wet and things inside being washed against their will.

What are some REASONABLE things that can be done to seal the doors? New genuine door seals or something aftermarket. I've heard D90 door seals will work if the lip on the door surround is ground off. Worth the hassle?

The station wagon hard top also leaks were the skin meets the rain gutter. The water runs under the skin and drips on the dash and floor inside. Is there any kind of sealer that can be used that would wick in under the skin to make a good seal.

Moving to the desert at this time is not an option.

Bill Fishel

--__--__--

Message: 9
From: "Scott Wickham" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Brakes:  converting from a single-circuit, non-servo
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 14:57:38 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Not sure if
the wing will need trimming (s.III???).

  Yes.

Scooter

--__--__--

Message: 10
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Brakes: converting from a single-circuit, non-servo
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 09:08:05 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Non boost equipped Series trucks will have to have the left fender trimmed 
to clear the master cylinder.  I used a late 2a fender and replaced the 
front panel with a non headlight one.  Expensive if you don't have one 
laying around, however, but looks OEM.  TeriAnn cut her early 2a fender to 
clear.  My question would be whether the fender has enough rigidity without 
the lip stamped into the late 2a/3 fender.  The lip could be added easily if 
you had one of those hand tools for adding the lip or riveting in some type 
of reinforcement.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

>From: "Scott Wickham" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: <[email-masked]>
>Subject: Re: [lro] Brakes:  converting from a single-circuit, non-servo
>Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 14:57:38 -0400
>
>
>Not sure if
>the wing will need trimming (s.III???).
>
>
>   Yes.
>
>Scooter
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 11
From: "Paul Quin" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Leaking door seals
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 12:11:58 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Wise Owl has a new door seal that looks very similar to the factory original
stuff.  There is a gap in the rubber which will take a metal strip like the
factory used so that you could rivet the seals on.  Or you can leave that
out and glue them on.  They sell it by the foot.

For the roof leak, you can probably pick up a replacement gasket from any
plastic / rubber store.  You'll need to pop the roof up a foot to get access
to it.

Paul in Victoria.l

--__--__--

Message: 12
From: "Scott Wickham" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Bulkhead Draft/ Wheel Fell off
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 15:14:03 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Thought about it some more and you're talking 
about the little lick that drummers play for comedians.  Don't know what 
that's called.

  You mean: ba-dum-pshhhhhh

Scooter

--__--__--

Message: 13
From: "Garrick Olsen" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 14:34:15 -0500
Subject: [lro] Getting the shaft-right
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I meant the loud cat purring noise I heard might be the bottom end
bearings, not cam bearings.   So, Oil pump and bottom (3) bearings: 
engine in or out and how many hour to budget? Halloween Mall advice- 
just don't go to malls any day of the year. -Rik25 miles from the Mall of
America1960 SWB SW 

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

--__--__--

Message: 14
Subject: Re: [lro] In defense of Lucar connectors:
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 01 14:02:22 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Okay, I have to comment here.
>dash lights: red
>side lights: red
>taillights: red

You have named every use for the red wire.

>main beam warning light: red
Blue with white stripe -  High beam dimmer switch to indicator lamp

Red - Tail lights, instrument lights and side markers

Red with white stripe is usually used for switched instrument lamps.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 15
Subject: Re: [lro] Leaking door seals
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 01 14:09:48 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>What are some REASONABLE things that can be done to seal the doors? New 
>genuine door seals or something aftermarket. I've heard D90 door seals 
>will work if the lip on the door surround is ground off. Worth the hassle?

I put in all new genuine seals and was very disapointed.  THe Defender 
stationwagon seal conversions looked real good.  I am planning to go with 
Defender seals the next time.
>
>The station wagon hard top also leaks were the skin meets the rain gutter. 
>The water runs under the skin and drips on the dash and floor inside. Is 
>there any kind of sealer that can be used that would wick in under the 
>skin to make a good seal.

The factory had some kind of black tar like stuff at the bottom of the 
gutter inbetwen the gutter and top.

Of course there is a rubber seal between the top and sides.  I replaced 
the seals on the sides a couple years ago and dried up a number of roof 
leaks.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 16
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 17:05:35 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] In defense of Lucar connectors:
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> >Okay, I have to comment here.
> >dash lights: red
> >side lights: red
> >taillights: red
>
>You have named every use for the red wire.
>
> >main beam warning light: red
>Blue with white stripe -  High beam dimmer switch to indicator lamp

I was just reading off the wiring diagram, not illustrating what's in my 
truck. By this point, they're all various shades of brown anyhow :) My 
example was that, while it may be common in all British cars, the Lucas 
wiring colour scheme does have a few holes in it...

Of course, in real life, there are mystery wires that have nothing to do 
with the way Rover wired the truck.

Keith
------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

--__--__--

Message: 17
From: "Lonn Howard" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Leaking door seals
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 17:19:02 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Oh boy Bill, you want your cake and eat it too?

For the doors, peruse the JCWhitney catalog for a U-shaped door seal that
you can glue to the body side of the door opening.  You want the U to face
up or out to catch the water and channel it away.  An additional slim flat
seal may be added to the door to take up any additional space and to ensure
a tight seal.  Remember, we don't care about originality, we care about
staying dry...

The hard top is dead simple.  Is the water pooling in the inside of the roof
channel and draining on the dash and your lap when you brake or turn?  The
reason you are getting wet is because the original caulk has dryed out and
lost the ability to seal the roof skin to the edge channel so that all the
water runs off the roof, into the channel, then into your lap.  Clean the
channel by removing all the loose old caulk that you can.  Use a pick, wire
brush, pnuematic jackhammer... if you are careful you can remove the paint
and caulk from the channel and not be able to see it from the ground.  When
the channel area is ready use a self-leveling paintable sealer and a small
brush to flow it into the channel.  Tape the drain slots from underneith so
it doesn't flow onto the body!  You can cut the slots open after it sets.  I
can't remember off the top of my head what the product name is... I'll check
when I get home.  No more leaky roof.

Is the roof leaking when you are careening down the highway in a torrent?
Replace the seal between the top of the windscreen and the hardtop.  No more
leaky roof.

Later,
Lonn

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Fishel" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 11:53 AM
Subject: [lro] Leaking door seals

>
> OK
> I know its a big joke about everything leaking on a Rover but I'm tired of
getting wet and things inside being washed against their will.
>
> What are some REASONABLE things that can be done to seal the doors? New
genuine door seals or something aftermarket. I've heard D90 door seals will
work if the lip on the door surround is ground off. Worth the hassle?
>
> The station wagon hard top also leaks were the skin meets the rain gutter.
The water runs under the skin and drips on the dash and floor inside. Is
there any kind of sealer that can be used that would wick in under the skin
to make a good seal.
>
> Moving to the desert at this time is not an option.
>
> Bill Fishel
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 18
To: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 18:29:59 -0600
Subject: Re: [lro] Leaking door seals
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I second Lonn's advice--get the JC Whitney seals.  I did Mrs. Merdle w/
them and wonder why I ever messed around w/ genuine stuff.   I used some
sponge rubber weatherstripping--basically a circular bunch of foam w/ one
side that's "flanged" to be flat and that side has a self-adhesive
surface w/ backing on it.  Cut it w/ scissors, peel off backing, stick it
on.  It's plenty high to seal the rover doors and the base of it is just
the right width to stick in the trough on the body and bulkhead for the
seal.  No riveting, no liquid sealant, no inward bulges that leave gaps .
. .  I dig it.
It's item # 13KS3229X and is $15.99 for 10 ft.  So only about 90 bucks
worth of this stuff gave me plenty to do a whole 109SW.  That's about
what one door worth of original seals costs.

bill

--__--__--

Message: 19
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 20:06:50 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: "C. Marin Faure" <[email-masked]>
Cc: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Re: terror hoaxes
Reply-To: [email-masked]

From: "Simon J. Harding" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 09:38:25 -0700
Subject: [lro] terror hoaxes (No LR content)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Has anyone here had a message forwarded to them regarding terror attacks
>at malls on halloween?

Yes, I got it twice on Thursday at the office from two different people who
were fowarding it to a large list of people they knew.  I suspect it's
total bollocks.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

--__--__--

Message: 20
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Leaking door seals
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 03:09:04 +0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Paul in Victoria.l

...where it has been known to rain once in a while ;-)

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
--author unknown

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 21
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 20:17:52 -0700
Subject: [lro] Seattle Area Scales
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Aloha,
I am picking up the Rover from the shippers in South Seattle on Tuesday and
was wondering if there is anyplace I can get her weighed before heading back
to Bremerton?
I checked the Bremerton YPs under scales and see some moving companies
listed.  This what I am looking for or should I be looking for something
else?  None of em open till monday.
Thx
Pete
ps.  Yes we finally made it to Bremerton.

--__--__--

Message: 22
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 20:28:21 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: "C. Marin Faure" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Replacing starter motor
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I replaced the starter motor in my Series III today, a very easy job
assuming you have no problems getting the nuts off the exhaust pipe studs
on the manifold.  I didn't have any trouble, but on a vehicle with rusted
or corroded studs, this could turn a simple job into a really big job.

Anyway, my rebuilt starter has a broad metal band around the end of the
motor housing.  This band is supposed to help support some of the internal
components by providing better clamping pressure or something.  It's
interesting that in the SIII factory service manual that came with my SIII
in 1973, the starter removal-overhaul-replacement section shows this band.
However, the starter on my vehicle, which is the one that came from the
factory, didn't have the band, and in fact the back of the motor casing is
different from the casing on my rebuilt replacement and the one illustrated
in the manual.  My original starter did not have the little motor shaft
projection out the back that you can turn to free a stuck pinion.  Good
thing I never needed to do that during the last 28 years....

My reason for this post is this:  if you are installing an overhauled
starter that uses the compression band, MAKE SURE the clamp on the band is
NOT halfway between the mounting projections on the base, on the engine
block side of the starter.  This may be hard to visualize, but what you
don't want is the clamp to be on the engine block side of the starter
motor.  If the clamp is on this side, it can contact the side of the block
and keep the starter from seating solidly on its mount.  It will look like
it's seating, but if you look carefully, you'll notice that the clamp will
hit the block, and the mounting surfaces won't quite be flush.  You could
mash it down with the starter mounting nuts, perhaps, but if the starter is
at even a tiny bit of an angle, I imagine that might cause premature wear
problems down the line a bit.

The solution is simple- make sure the clamp is not on the block side of the
starter motor before you start the installation process.  If it is, loosen
it and turn the band until the clamp is somewhere else, then retighten.

Believe me, it's way better to know this in advance than find out about it
after you've struggled to thread the heavy starter up between the frame,
exhaust pipe, and engine and wrestled it around until it slides into
position.

Long post for a simple explanation, but maybe it will help someone save
some time and eliminate some frustration someday.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

--__--__--

Message: 23
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 14:16:07 +1000
Subject: [lro] I'm an LRO!!!
Reply-To: [email-masked]

As you may recall I've been looking for a series III 88 and had found one a
couple of weeks ago. I'd been trying to get the dealer who has it to come
down in price a bit more but they wouldn't budge. Unfortunately for me the
mechanic they use owns one and knows what they're worth.

Went back out today and upped my offer slightly and they agreed. I've left a
deposit and will be picking it up next weekend so I'm officially a LRO.

Once I have it I'll post some pics on the 'net and post the URL to the list

BTW it's a 1975 series III 88 with a tropical roof. Has a huge bullbar
(which I'll probably remove) with a couple of driving lights, tow bar and a
fairly ugly roof rack. Ended up paying just under US$2k for it. I also found
the hand crank.

They're replacing the hub seals and getting the brakes into working order
before I pick it up.

It's going to be one of those long weeks while I wait.

Matt.

--__--__--

Message: 24
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 23:19:39 -0500
From: "Andrew H. Litkowiak" <[email-masked]>
To: Land Rover List <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Looking for antique jack part
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hello, one and all,

I'm in the process of restoring and old hydraulic floor jack and I
need some parts/repair source help.

The unit is a Walker Model 882 Series B

I need either the main cylinder piston sleeve, an entire functional
cylinder or someone who can repair my existing unit. The inner sleeve
is so badly pitted that honing would be futile.

Any clues would be great.

Andy Litkowiak

--__--__--

Message: 25
Subject: Re: [lro] I'm an LRO!!!
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 00:49:23 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

2K?!?!?!?!

Strop whining about the price - if it's driveable you have a bargain and a
half.

I paid 3500 for Mr. Churchill and he was driveable but in need of a
complete rebuild.....

You are getting off cheap.

               ajr

--__--__--

Message: 26
Subject: Re: [lro] Looking for antique jack part
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 00:50:25 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Take it to a machine shop and have it bored and sleeved - that's likely
your best bet. Shouldn't be horrendously expensive....

                    ajr

--__--__--

Message: 27
From: "Paul Quin" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Seattle Area Scales
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 21:58:14 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Most recycling or garbage depots have scales where they weigh you in and
out.  They probably wouldn't mind giving you a reading.  I weighed my Rover
this way once out of curiosity.

Paul in Victoria.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 8:17 PM
Subject: [lro] Seattle Area Scales

>
> Aloha,
> I am picking up the Rover from the shippers in South Seattle on Tuesday
and
> was wondering if there is anyplace I can get her weighed before heading
back
> to Bremerton?
> I checked the Bremerton YPs under scales and see some moving companies
> listed.  This what I am looking for or should I be looking for something
> else?  None of em open till monday.
> Thx
> Pete
> ps.  Yes we finally made it to Bremerton.

--__--__--

Message: 28
Date: 13 Oct 2001 22:15:30 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Seattle Area Scales
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Sat, 13 October 2001, "Hope Peter" wrote:

> ps.  Yes we finally made it to Bremerton.

YYYYeeeSSSS!!!!  Welcome!

Don't know where you can find a scale in S. Seattle - but I'll scratch my brain a little.  It's majorly industrial down there, truck mfg, trailer mfg, you name it.  There's gotta be some around.  I'll scratch my brain a bit and get back to you.  

Bryan

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--__--__--

Message: 29
From: "Bill Fishel" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Leaking door seals
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 01:57:57 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Thanks everybody
I'll be ordering the seals from JC Whitless. 

Lonn, I'm interested in the product you were talking about for sealing the top skin to the rain gutter.

Bill Fishel

----------
> From: Bill Fishel <[email-masked]>
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: [lro] Leaking door seals
> Date: Saturday, October 13, 2001 2:53 PM
> 
> 
> OK 
> I know its a big joke about everything leaking on a Rover but I'm tired of getting wet and things inside being washed against their will.
> 
> What are some REASONABLE things that can be done to seal the doors? New genuine door seals or something aftermarket. I've heard D90 door seals will work if the lip on the door surround is ground off. Worth the hassle?
> 
> The station wagon hard top also leaks were the skin meets the rain gutter. The water runs under the skin and drips on the dash and floor inside. Is there any kind of sealer that can be used that would wick in under the skin to make a good seal.
> 
> Moving to the desert at this time is not an option.
> 
> Bill Fishel
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> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

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