Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #112 - 10 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 03:06:05 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Couple of newbie series questions (apsilon)
   2. Re: Couple of newbie series questions (Lance da Silva)
   3. Re: Couple of newbie series questions (Bryan Hoult)
   4. Re: Couple of newbie series questions (TeriAnn Wakeman)
   5. windscreen washer nozzles (William J. Rice)
   6. Any 4.1 diff users?? (TeriAnn Wakeman)
   7. Re: Couple of newbie series questions (apsilon)
   8. Re: Couple of newbie series questions ([email-masked])
   9. bellhousing in Chicago? (William J. Rice)
  10. Re: windscreen washer nozzles (John Karlsson)

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Message: 1
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 17:05:08 +1000
Subject: [lro] Couple of newbie series questions
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi all,

I took a look at that series III 88 I mentioned and now have a couple of new
questions.

Firstly just how bad should the brakes be? This one was scary bad.

Secondly can someone give a simple explanation of the gearshift. The main
gear shift I understand but what exactly is the red and yellow know? One
obviously exngages 4wd but the other? The red appears to only move forward
and back and the yellow only up and down. What combinations should they be
used in? I know there are instructions on the bulkhead but they were hard to
read for the most part and not that helpful to someone who's never driven a
4wd.

That's about all I can think of for now.

TIA,
Matt.

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Message: 2
From: "Lance da Silva" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2001 09:22:31 +0200
Subject: Re: [lro] Couple of newbie series questions
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Matt,

You are quite correct. Red moves back and forward. Forward = high range Back = low range.
The yellow knob is to engage 4wd whilst you are in high range.
To disengage 4wd move red lever into low and then back to high & yellow knob will automatically disengage.
When you select low range 4wd is automatically engaged.

As for the brakes pretty standard setup and once sorted work well.
Be prepared for lots of fun.
Lance
>Hi all,
>
>I took a look at that series III 88 I mentioned and now have a couple of new
>questions.
>
>Firstly just how bad should the brakes be? This one was scary bad.
>
>Secondly can someone give a simple explanation of the gearshift. The main
>gear shift I understand but what exactly is the red and yellow know? One
>obviously exngages 4wd but the other? The red appears to only move forward
>and back and the yellow only up and down. What combinations should they be
>used in? I know there are instructions on the bulkhead but they were hard to
>read for the most part and not that helpful to someone who's never driven a
>4wd.
>
>That's about all I can think of for now.
>
>TIA,
>Matt.
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

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Message: 3
Date: 6 Oct 2001 00:32:56 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Couple of newbie series questions
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Sat, 06 October 2001, "apsilon" wrote:

>Firstly just how bad should the >brakes be? This one was scary bad.

>Secondly can someone give a simple >explanation of the gearshift

The brakes shouldn't be the least bit scary.  Perhaps a bit more pressure to stop is necessary when compared to vacuum assist, but they should stop the rover straight and predictably.

The red knob is pulled back to engage 4wd low, and disengage 4wd high range.  The yellow knob is pushed down to engage high range 4wd.

Bryan

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

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Message: 4
Subject: Re: [lro] Couple of newbie series questions
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 01 07:23:25 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Firstly just how bad should the brakes be? This one was scary bad.

They should work first time about half way down the travel.  They should 
work better than a stock sixties VW microbus but nowhere as well as 
modern small car brakes.  Even with the power assist they take a fair 
amount of pressure.

However if the hub seals are leaking they take a lot more push for a bit 
less stop.  Look along the back sides of the tyres and rear of the drums 
for signs of 90 wt leaking out of the drums.

>Secondly can someone give a simple explanation of the gearshift. The main
>gear shift I understand but what exactly is the red and yellow know?

Matt if you are serious about owning a series LR, may I suggest 
purchasing a factory owners manual, part # LSM64IM for the series IIA & 
IIB, #607324B24 for the series III.  They don't cost much (about $30) and 
they explain a great deal.

They explain what all the gauges switches and knobs are for and the 
factory recommended limits for when to engage those knobs.

Just as important the manual provides factory recommendations for 
maintenance intervals on everything to keep it in top running condition, 
step by step tune up directions and specifications, electrical info, 
circuit diagrams and fault finding charts.

I owned my Land Rover for 20 years before I broke down and bought mine.  
Darned if I didn't learn a number of things about my Land Rover from the 
owners manual even after all those years.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

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Message: 5
To: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 09:00:00 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] windscreen washer nozzles
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi all,
On the drill-through-the bulkhead variety of these things, where should
they be positioned--mine have aged for over 8 mos. in the garage and
might now be ready for installation.

bill

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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 01 11:28:55 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Any 4.1 diff users??
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I was just wondering how many people with series rigs have gone to 4.1 
ring and pinions and what their experiences are.  The 4.1 R&P is a common 
aftermarket ratio for the Rover carrier and looks to me like the best 
current choice for someone who wants taller highway gearing but feels the 
3.54 gears or the Ashcroft high ratio kit are too tall for their engine.

Anyone willing to share experiences with 4.1 R&Ps?

Here are some interesting numbers 
(calculated at the axle in fourth gear):

Series, no ratio modifiers, 4.7 diff  5.4:1
Series, no ratio modifiers, 4.1 diff  4.72 
Series, Superwinch OD, stock gearbox, 4.7 diff  4.22:1
Series, Ashcroft High ratio transfercase, 4.7 diff  4.09:1
Series, no ratio modifiers, 3.54 diff  4.07:1

V8 D90, 3.54 diff  4.32:1 (5th - 3.65:1)

You will notice that the 4.1 ratio is about mid way between the 4.7 stock 
ratio and the overdrive ratio (calculated with the 1.15 underdrive ratio 
of the transfer case). 

You will also notice that the Ashcroft high ratio kit comes out being 
very close to a 3.54 R&P ratio on a stock series rig for high range.  
That is pretty tall for most series rigs to push but a natural for people 
like me using a different engine with a series transfer case.

Any sage words from people using the 4.1 R&P???

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

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Message: 7
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Couple of newbie series questions
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 07:26:39 +1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Thanks all,

That's the way I thought the gears should work. One other sort of question -
should it be in high range or neutral while driving on the road?

The front seals are leaking so I didn't expect the brakes to be great but at
one stage I tried an emergency stop on some straight level road with no
traffic in sight. From 60kph (~35mph) it took about 20m to come to a
complete stop.

As for the manuals I've already got a catalog of books and manuals on it's
way. Should have that early in the week so I can pick what I want.

The guy's getting a pink slip for the truck on Monday (basically a
certificate of road worthiness required when sold or registered) and is then
going to give me a call and let me know what he wants for it so negotiations
can begin.

Thanks again, you've all been a great help.

Matt..

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Message: 8
From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 18:13:57 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] Couple of newbie series questions
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 10/6/01 5:28:05 PM, [email-masked] writes:

>should it be in high range or neutral while driving on the road?

high range, nuetral is exactly as it sounds nuetral, ie no power to the 
wheels.

adam

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Message: 9
To: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 17:08:14 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] bellhousing in Chicago?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Who's the guy in Chicago who said he could send me a 4 cyl SIIA
bellhousing?  I've completely forgotten.  No rush, just curious.

Thanks
bill in CO

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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2001 20:35:53 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: John Karlsson <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] windscreen washer nozzles
Reply-To: [email-masked]

At 11:00 AM 10/6/01, bill wrote:

>Hi all,
>On the drill-through-the bulkhead variety of these things, where should
>they be positioned--mine have aged for over 8 mos. in the garage and
>might now be ready for installation.

I put mine in the bonnet.  I found it less painful than drilling the bulkhead.

John Karlsson
956 Main Street
P.O. Box 1023
Hope Valley, RI  02832

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End of LRO Digest