Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #110 - 25 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 03:03:52 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Poser for Marin :-{)} (Paul Oxley)
   2. [Fwd: Diesel Landrover] (Paul Oxley)
   3. Re: [Fwd: Diesel Landrover] (Ian Stuart)
   4. Re: Update on that mystery diff... ([email-masked])
   5. Re: Poser for Marin :-{)} (Rob MacCormick)
   6. Re: Spare carrier?tow ([email-masked])
   7. Traumatic news (A. P. (Sandy) Grice)
   8. Re: Galvanizing ([email-masked])
   9. Re: Galvanizing (Tiddly Winks)
  10. Re: Galvanizing (William J. Rice)
  11. Re: Update on that mystery diff... (Keith Tanner)
  12. Re: Galvanizing (John Cranfield)
  13. Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . . ([email-masked])
  14. Re: Spare carrier?tow (Faure, Marin)
  15. CFM needed to cool a Series? (Keith Tanner)
  16. Re: Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . . (Ian Stuart)
  17. Re: Update on that mystery diff... (Faure, Marin)
  18. RE: Galvanizing (Peter & Julie Rosvall)
  19. Re: Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . . (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  20. Spring hangers (Kirk Hillman)
  21. Re: Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . . ([email-masked])
  22. flex lines revisited (William J. Rice)
  23. still puzzeled by Delco wiring... (george kase)
  24. Re: Spring hangers ([email-masked])
  25. It's never over in a Rover! (Scott Wickham)

--__--__--

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 09:16:01 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
To: lro <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Poser for Marin :-{)}
Reply-To: [email-masked]

As a matter of interest, how would you guys categorise this vehicle?

http://home.metroweb.co.za/~acotton/landrover/milbug.htm
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

--__--__--

Message: 2
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 10:12:44 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
To: lro <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] [Fwd: Diesel Landrover]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi All, 

This guy's on your side of the pond, but obviously not subscribed (or an
LRO). Maybe one of the statesiders could drop him a line?

Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Diesel Landrover
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 01:53:28 -0600
From: john haller <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]
To: [email-masked]

Dear Sir,
    In watching "Junkyard Wars", I often see contestants pulling diesel
powered Land Rover's out of the scrap heap. I think a diesel "Landy"
would be a really neat "piece of kit". Are there very many (or any)
diesel Land Rovers here in the states? Was there ever a pick up version?
Was there ever a 4-door pick up version? Any info you could provide
would be greatly appreciated.
John Haller
Ogallala Nebraska

--__--__--

Message: 3
Subject: Re: [lro] [Fwd: Diesel Landrover]
From: Ian Stuart <[email-masked]>
To: john haller <[email-masked]>
Cc: [email-masked]
Date: 04 Oct 2001 09:48:58 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

John,

Very few diesels were exported to the US - petrol was cheap, and diesels
were not popular..

Land rovers (either Series style, or defender style) come in two basic
models: Short Wheel Base (aka: SWB; 88 [it's the wheelbase]; D90
[Defenders]) and Long Wheel Base (aka: LWB; 109 [again, it's the
wheelbase]; 110 [long Defender]).

There are other models in this range, which are not relevant here (80s,
86s, 107s, 127s, 130s).

All models come in soft-top, hard-top [van body], station-wagon
[van-body-with-windows] or pickup *except the 110* [only 500 were
imported into the US, all were 5-door station-wagons only]

In the UK, and other parts of Europe, the 127/130 vehicles came in a
4-door pickup version, and the 110 is now available in this format.

Many older vehicles are extensivle modified, so there may well be some
109 land rovers in a 4-door pickup style - but not made as a factory
option..

Does this help?

On Thu, 2001-10-04 at 09:12, Paul Oxley wrote:
> 
> Hi All, 
> 
> This guy's on your side of the pond, but obviously not subscribed (or an
> LRO). Maybe one of the statesiders could drop him a line?
> 
> Regards
> 
> Paul Oxley
> AfricanAdrenalin.com
> 
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: Diesel Landrover
> Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 01:53:28 -0600
> From: john haller <[email-masked]>
> Reply-To: [email-masked]
> To: [email-masked]
> 
> Dear Sir,
>     In watching "Junkyard Wars", I often see contestants pulling diesel
> powered Land Rover's out of the scrap heap. I think a diesel "Landy"
> would be a really neat "piece of kit". Are there very many (or any)
> diesel Land Rovers here in the states? Was there ever a pick up version?
> Was there ever a 4-door pick up version? Any info you could provide
> would be greatly appreciated.
> John Haller
> Ogallala Nebraska

-- 
--==++
Ian Stuart: Edinburgh University Data Library.
I build things: computer programs (with code); or cars (with metal)

 Personal web site: http://lucas.ucs.ed.ac.uk/ 

--__--__--

Message: 4
From: <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Update on that mystery diff...
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 10:34:37 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi Bill, I think your friend is a wee bit mixed up with the Power-Lok
operation. The clutch plates are slightly dished to give some preload and to
stop everything chattering when there's not much power going through it. You
can alter this preload by machining the case or shimming it which will alter
when the diff begins to lock up. As you turn a corner the clutch plates slip
to allow the diff to operate normally, increase the power you're feeding
through it and the spider gears will try and force themselves away from each
other, increasing the pressure on the clutch plates which tightens the diff
up, ultimately locking it solid. Hence, Power-Lok. The only thing that ever
really goes wrong with them is cracked plates and they do require special
oil Castrol B373 I think, but it's been ten years since I got paid to fix
the things, so I could be wrong....#:o)
Cheers,

Chaz
Scotland

>    As I mentioned to you off line, I came into possesion of one of these
>type diffs on Monday. I got together with my diff guy, who has a much
broader
>experience with non-rover diffs than I. The conclusion was that the factory
>Land Rover diff is actually a Dana Power-Lok. Dana made/makes a Track-Lok,
>which is a 2 pinion carrier and a Power-Lok, which is the 4 pinion carrier.
>The way they operate is that they are basicly always locked until the unit
>reaches a certain preset torque level and then it will release the torque
by
>the internal clutches slipping. He says that the nice thing about
Power-Loks
>is that you can adjust the preload by shimming them. The Rover model
suffered
>from the cross shafts breaking but I suspect it was related to axles
breaking
>- man these things would have been hell on axles - no wonder Rover replaced
>most of them under warranty! No diff really likes sudden releases of torque
>from one half of the unit. I am checking to see if I can source parts for
>them.
>
>Bill
>GBR

--__--__--

Message: 5
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 07:59:10 -0400
From: Rob MacCormick <[email-masked]>
Organization: Boston College
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Poser for Marin :-{)}
Reply-To: [email-masked]

THAT's got soul............Will Mel Gibson be driving this?

Paul Oxley wrote:

> As a matter of interest, how would you guys categorise this vehicle?
>
> http://home.metroweb.co.za/~acotton/landrover/milbug.htm
>
> Regards
>
> Paul Oxley
> AfricanAdrenalin.com
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 6
From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 07:58:51 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] Spare carrier?tow
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>> Before restoring the truck, my back door didn't close very well either
>due
>> to the same problem.  What about adding a third hinge - anyone done that?
>> And I second Rik's question about realigning the rear door...
>
>Yeah, I've done it.  You need to make sure you get it lined up perfectly
>though.

the easiest way to do that is to get a long steel rod and run it through all 
three hinges.
it will align the center hinge with its top and bottom cousin.

i hope to see many of you this weekend at the middy

rgds,
spenny
Arlington, VA

1965 Diesel LWB, The Ugly Truck
1965 Ex-MOD FFR LWB, pile'o'parts <- Just add bolts  :-0
1965 Ex-MOD LWB, Winnie
Land Rover - 4WD of choice for the Information Superhighway

--__--__--

Message: 7
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 11:25:14 -0400
To: [email-masked], [email-masked],
  [email-masked]
From: "A. P. (Sandy) Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Traumatic news
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Having a hard time writing this....

Last Saturday afternoon, Stuart Moore, president of ROAV, was severly
injured clearing trail at the MAR site in Buckingham County.  Work was over
for the day and Stuart was driving the bush-hog tractor back off the island
when he was hit in the head by a falling tree limb.  He had to be
med-evaced by helicopter to the UVa hospital in Charlottesville where he
remains in critical condition in the ICU.  Your thoughts and prayers for
his survival are needed.

These details are second hand, but it appears that an unseen limb or tree,
deposited by a flood years before, were dislodged by the vibrations of the
tractor passing nearby.  Though knocked unconscious, Stuart kept his foot
on the clutch which prevented the tractor from moving, as the blades of the
bush-hog were still in gear.  Mike McCaig was nearby and stopped the
tractor.  The local rescue squad was called and promptly arrived, and the
Pegasus helicopter from UVa was summoned.  Louise Adamson, ROAV's
secreatry, remains by his side in Charlotesville.

The MAR will still be held, but now more than ever we need your assistance.
 First, with your thoughts and prayers for Stuart's recovery.  Secondly,
for volunteers to help with registration and whatnot at rally control, as
we have lost our two key personnel. 

	*-----"jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is legendary"----*
	|                 A. P. "Sandy" Grice                  |
	|    The Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd    |
	|     1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
	|     757-622-7054  (H)423-4898  (FAX)757-622-7056     |
	*------------------------------------------------------*

--__--__--

Message: 8
From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 08:03:55 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] Galvanizing
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>N Forbes" <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
>>As for galvanising a bulkhead, I've never ever heard of someone havin 
>>warp on them. Keep in mind any bracing you add will NEVER come off. 
>>Similarily, don't try to protect threads by having bolts in place wit
>>idea that you'll take them out afterwords. Not going to happen.
>
>Niall is absolutely correct.  Any 'hardware' installed in boltholes or
>whatnot will be permanently soldered in place.  A friend ran some bolts
>into the door hinge holes  - which had to be drilled and tapped out.  Broke
>the tap...*and* the subsequent tap extractor.... *Major* PITA, that was.

that's odd. the marsland galvy frame i put under my 88 had bolts screwed into 
the tapped holes where the steering relay goes. they came right out.

the only thing i can imagine was that you guys are snugging them up to the 
head of the bolt. these were only in about half way. 

rgds,
spenny
Arlington, VA

1965 Diesel LWB, The Ugly Truck
1965 Ex-MOD FFR LWB, pile'o'parts <- Just add bolts  :-0
1965 Ex-MOD LWB, Winnie
Land Rover - 4WD of choice for the Information Superhighway

--__--__--

Message: 9
From: "Tiddly Winks" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Galvanizing
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 14:47:47 +0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

<lurk mode off>
As far as galvanising being a benign process...
My bulkhead warped.  Not to affect any critical fitting of parts, but every 
long unsupported expanse of sheet metal buckled slightly due to the heat.  
Galvanizers also 'bump' items after the dip while they are still hot to 
remove excess zinc.  This can adversely affect the shape of any of your bits 
(my bulkhead fared well, but two of my wheels did not).
As far as filling bolt holes...
I put grade 5 bolts into the captive door hinge nuts.  If you don't do this 
you risk the nuts being bonded by the zinc in an inaccessible position.  
Light tapping on the bolts freed the captive nuts and gentle persuasion with 
an impact wrench removed the bolts with no problem.
There are many variations of the galvanising process. That said, have tham 
dip a few test pieces so you know what you are getting in to.
Regards,

Todd Ondick
'65 IIA 88"
<lurk mode on>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 10
To: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 08:49:32 -0600
Subject: Re: [lro] Galvanizing
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> that's odd. the marsland galvy frame i put under my 88 had bolts 
> screwed into 
> the tapped holes where the steering relay goes. they came right 
> out.
> rgds,
> spenny
> Arlington, VA

Well, Spen, you had better luck than I did then.  We put bolts halfway in
the captive nut plates for the door hinges to keep 'em from wiggling out
of posn (SIIA) and getting galvied in place and boy were they a PITA to
get out.  We only broke one, tho' so not much drilling and tapping reqd.
As for that fellows remark on bracing, the angle iron we had bolted
firmly to the feet of the bulkhead came off with only minimal cussing and
application of torch.

bill

--__--__--

Message: 11
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 09:16:53 -0600
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Update on that mystery diff...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Okay, this is amusing. I did a web search to see if I could find out 
anything in particular about Castrol B373:

Castrol B373
A full extreme pressure oil for limited slip differentials in racing and 
rally cars. Does not contain noise suppressing additives so not suitable 
for normal road use.

Yup, sounds like a Series Rover! :)

keith

--__--__--

Message: 12
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 12:46:37 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Galvanizing
Reply-To: [email-masked]

It seems the secret is to have the bolt in just far enough to come flush
with the back side of the nut. This means that you are not having to
peel zinc from the bolt threads as it is removed.
John and Muddy

"William J. Rice" wrote:
> 
> > that's odd. the marsland galvy frame i put under my 88 had bolts
> > screwed into
> > the tapped holes where the steering relay goes. they came right
> > out.
> > rgds,
> > spenny
> > Arlington, VA
> 
> Well, Spen, you had better luck than I did then.  We put bolts halfway in
> the captive nut plates for the door hinges to keep 'em from wiggling out
> of posn (SIIA) and getting galvied in place and boy were they a PITA to
> get out.  We only broke one, tho' so not much drilling and tapping reqd.
> As for that fellows remark on bracing, the angle iron we had bolted
> firmly to the feet of the bulkhead came off with only minimal cussing and
> application of torch.
> 
> bill
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 13
From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 12:07:29 EDT
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . .
Reply-To: [email-masked]

What type sealant is the consensus option for using on the swivel seals? I 
used blue silicone the other evening and it didn't hold; I have a leak. Not 
sure if I used enough though, in retrospect this application may seem like 
'more is better' concerning sealant. Is that the case?  I only applied a thin 
coating, not a gap filling layer.
The leak is from under the seal at the bottom away from the seal face on the 
chrome ball. So the process appears to have worked, it's something I did.
I'm planning on using 'The Right Stuff' on the redo unless someone has a 
better product that has an instant in service turn around time.
Thanks
Scott Just
Rochester Hill, MI
1968  '109 reg

--__--__--

Message: 14
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 09:10:21 -0700 
Subject: [lro] Re: Spare carrier?tow
Reply-To: [email-masked]

From: "Garrick Olsen" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 13:12:14 -0500
Subject: [lro] Spare carrier?tow
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>I am nervous about bending the door even more by actually hanging a tire back 
there.

There are two problems with hanging a spare tire on the side-hinged rear door of a hardtop or 
station wagon.  One is that the weight of the tire and wheel will start the door sagging 
in short order, particularly if you have the two-hinge door.  I have been told that the 
doors with three hinges holds up a little better over time, but everyone I've known who 
has put a tire on the standard rear door carrier has ended up with a sagging and "sprung" 
door.

The other problem is that the tire hangs fairly low on the standard carrier, which is not 
a problem on normal roads or dirt tracks.  But if you do any traveling over even 
moderately rough stuff, the bottom of the tire can hang up on obstacles as you cross them, 
which will really damage the door as the weight of the vehicle is transmitted to the door 
through the mount.  My SIII came with three spare tire mounts: the rear door unit, a 
clamp to hold the tire on the bulkhead behind the front seats (this is where the tire 
was mounted for shipping from the factory), and the hood or bonnet mount.  I have 
always used the bonnet mount, and have had no problems with fatiguing of the bonnet 
panel or the bracing underneath despite the fairly high weight of the tire and mount.

>BTW, any way to realign that rear door short of welding new plate and re 
drilling holes?

It depends on how much damage or wear has occurred around the bolt holes.  
If the bad holes are in the body, you might be able to get away with making a 
steel backing plate and installing longer bolts to reach through it to sort of 
clamp the body itself between the hinge and the backing plate.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
(original owner)
1973 Land Rover Series III-88
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

--__--__--

Message: 15
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 10:09:48 -0600
To: "lro-koan.team.net" <[email-masked]>
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] CFM needed to cool a Series?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

The fun part about working in a performance car shop is that there are lots 
of toys sitting around. Including a bunch of electric fans. What sort of 
CFM flow should I be looking for to retrofit a fan to Basil? I've got 
access to anything from 2720 to 3950 - and the 2720 would be free :)

Keith

------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

--__--__--

Message: 16
Subject: Re: [lro] Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . .
From: Ian Stuart <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: 04 Oct 2001 17:26:10 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Thu, 2001-10-04 at 17:07, [email-masked] wrote:
> 
> What type sealant is the consensus option for using on the swivel seals? I 
> used blue silicone the other evening and it didn't hold; I have a leak. Not 
> sure if I used enough though, in retrospect this application may seem like 
> 'more is better' concerning sealant. Is that the case?  I only applied a thin 
> coating, not a gap filling layer.
> The leak is from under the seal at the bottom away from the seal face on the 
> chrome ball. So the process appears to have worked, it's something I did.
> I'm planning on using 'The Right Stuff' on the redo unless someone has a 
> better product that has an instant in service turn around time.
> Thanks
I'm not sure if I've got you right...

If you are having a leak between the chrome ball and the seal, then
either the seal is torn or the ball is pitted.

If you have a leak between the seal and the swivel-housing (the bit that
turns, then this is a different kettle of fish.
The oil-seal should be a firm fit into the swivel-housing recess. If
there is any free-play in there, it will never seal - you need another
housing. (Failing that, shove in thicker oil - which sparks off a whole
new thread...)

-- 
--==++
Ian Stuart: Edinburgh University Data Library.
I build things: computer programs (with code); or cars (with metal)

 Personal web site: http://lucas.ucs.ed.ac.uk/ 

--__--__--

Message: 17
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 09:24:47 -0700 
Subject: [lro] Re: Update on that mystery diff...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Update on that mystery diff...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>I poured plain old 90wt in there, unaware that there might be anything 
unusual about the moving parts inside. I've been asking questions about the 
fluid since I discovered that it was not an open diff, but nobody else has 
thought there should be a difference

My Ford F-250 has a limited slip differential that uses the slipping plate/clutch 
method.  A number of years ago, I began getting a horrible creaking, banging 
sound out of the differential after I'd been driving it for awhile and then made 
slow turns into a parking space, around a corner, etc.  The noise sounded like 
something very major was going on.  I had a mechanic listen to it and he declared 
the rear hub bearings were shot.  Considering the size of the bearings on an F-250, 
and the fact that the truck wasn't that old at the time, I was skeptical, but I bought 
a set of new bearings from the local Ford dealer.  I was actually on my way into 
the coast range in Northern California to visit the now-defunct Atlantic British 
shop, and when I got there, I mentioned my problem to the mechanic who rebuilt 
all the Land Rover engines, transmissions, and differentials that came through there.  
He said, "Does it sound like the whole thing's coming apart back there every time 
you turn a sharp corner with creaks and bangs?"  I said yes.  He say, "Go to the local 
NAPA store and buy (I forget the brand name but it is a limited slip differential additive) 
and put it in the differential.  What's happened is the original additive has gotten too old."

I did as he suggested, and not only put the additive in but changed the 90 wt lube oil 
in the differential.  The differential didn't make a peep after that.  I've had to do this 
one more time in the intervening years, so apparently the additive looses it's ability to 
properly lubricate the limited slip clutch disks.  The noise, by the way, was the clutch 
disks binding up and chattering against each other instead of sliding smoothly during a 
turn.

The set of brand new rear hub bearings I bought for my truck are still on the shelf 
in the garage....

I have been instructed to use the same additive in the limited slip differential in my 
BMW 635csi for the same reason.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
(original owner)
1973 Land Rover Series III-88
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

--__--__--

Message: 18
From: "Peter & Julie Rosvall" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Galvanizing
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 15:55:02 -0300
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Galvanizers also 'bump' items after the dip while they are still hot to
>remove excess zinc.  This can adversely affect the shape of any of your
bits
>(my bulkhead fared well, but two of my wheels did not).

To add to this: The items that most Galvanizers deal with on a day to day
basis are large heavy steel items which can be dropped and have other things
sit on top of them and can be generally handled roughly with no ill effect.
I have seen a lot of smaller items, such as heater boxes, 109 "T" posts,
door frames etc. come back slightly damaged...

Maybe some of the distortion of a galv'd bulkhead is coming from poor
handling as well.

Peter Rosvall
Wolfville, Nova Scotia

--__--__--

Message: 19
Subject: Re: [lro] Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . .
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 01 12:38:51 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>What type sealant is the consensus option for using on the swivel seals?

I like the blue RTV that comes in the silver tube.  the stuff in the blue 
tube is not very good.

>I only applied a thin coating, not a gap filling layer.

Should be all you need.

>The leak is from under the seal at the bottom away from the seal face on the 
>chrome ball.

Any chance you over tightened the securing ring & distorted the seal?  
The manual cautions against that.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 20
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 13:45:18 -0600
Subject: [lro] Spring hangers
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Would someone please be a dear and provide me with dimensions/drawings of
the taller(military) spring hangers?  I have the extended shackles already
and would like to correct the pinion angle in particular at the front.

Thanks,
Kirk

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Message: 21
From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 16:39:36 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . .
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

It was the blue tube. . .
How do you judge tightness on the seal? Snug or tight, I thought I was OK.
If I did over tighten is the seal reusable?
Thanks
Scott

> >What type sealant is the consensus option for using on the swivel seals?
> 
> I like the blue RTV that comes in the silver tube.  the stuff in the blue 
> tube is not very good.
> 
> >I only applied a thin coating, not a gap filling layer.
> 
> Should be all you need.
> 
> >The leak is from under the seal at the bottom away from the seal face on 
> the 
> >chrome ball.
> 
> Any chance you over tightened the securing ring & distorted the seal?  
> The manual cautions against that.

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Message: 22
To: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 14:36:05 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] flex lines revisited
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Well,
I've been to NAPA and CarQuest--Napa's lines w/ the correct fittings jump
from 16" to 22" and the 22" one costs $38!
Called RN to see if the 1 ton front flex lines are much longer, but
they're about 16" or so, which only gives me 1/2" over the one's I've
already got.
Tried Dave S's part number and the guy at NAPA  (who, yes, was a moron)
drew a blank.
Anyone have any other suggestions?

bill

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Message: 23
Date: 04 Oct 2001 16:41:52 -0500
From: george kase <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] still puzzeled by Delco wiring...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Does anyone happen to have a real schematic drawing
on how the Delco wiring fits into the Series IIa?
Many kind people, in answer to may last query,
have described how to do this (including
quite a few web sites) but there are so many details
that seem to get in the way...can't make it work. So if you have a schematic
that would help a lot...
Thanks
George

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Message: 24
From: <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Spring hangers
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 22:37:05 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I can't give you the dimensions, but I measured the change in front pinion
angle and it was 3 degrees. I only drove to town once before putting the
standard shackles back on........scary ain't the word.
Cheers,

Chaz
        http://freespace.virgin.net/chaz.mackenzie/home.htm

>
>Would someone please be a dear and provide me with dimensions/drawings of
>the taller(military) spring hangers?  I have the extended shackles already
>and would like to correct the pinion angle in particular at the front.
>
>Thanks,
>Kirk

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Message: 25
From: "Scott Wickham" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 23:22:30 -0400
Subject: [lro] It's never over in a Rover!
Reply-To: [email-masked]

  It's 11:16 pm and I should be camping with Jon Humphry and Courtney my
girlfriend.  Where am I?  Well home of course since I'm emailing.  I'm home
because 2 hours into our journey tonight Sherman starts missing badly when I
floor it going up hills.  Instead of chancing it, I turn 'round and drive
back to the house, switch the camping gear to the RR, swap the AT's to
Sherman and put his MT's on the RR.  RR street meats on the side of the yard
now.  I should get to the camping spot about 3 am.  Up in 4 hours and drive
the rest of the way to the Middy!
  Sherman, cough, cough, sputter, speedo cable broke coming home, dash
lights go dark, bad omens...  Better get Lucy ;)

I'll be at the rally if I have to push this 'sombitch there!

Scooter

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