Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #109 - 39 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 03:03:32 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . . (apsilon)
   2. Re: Sunk Land Rover (Martin Rothman)
   3. 109" bleeding brake problems (Todd Kendrick)
   4. Re: 109" bleeding brake problems (Ian Stuart)
   5. Re: Re: Another sucessful relay removal (Hope Peter)
   6. Re: spare tire carriers and tow plates (Hope Peter)
   7. Re: Painting a galvy frame and bulkhead? (Faure, Marin)
   8. longest flex line (William J. Rice)
   9. Helicoil - 3/8" BSF (Kirk Hillman)
  10. Re: longest flex line (David Scheidt)
  11. Re: Helicoil - 3/8" BSF (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  12. srs light ([email-masked])
  13. Re: Helicoil - 3/8" BSF (Jeff Bieler)
  14. Re: Helicoil - 3/8" BSF (David Scheidt)
  15. Galvanizing (A. P. (Sandy) Grice)
  16. Re: spare tire carriers and tow plates (Rich Williams II)
  17. Re: srs light (Neil Brownlee)
  18. Re: Helicoil - 3/8" BSF (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  19. I need a seatbox! (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  20. Re: Helicoil - 3/8" BSF (David Scheidt)
  21. 3/4 canvas trim (Jim Hall)
  22. Re: longest flex line (Jim Hall)
  23. Re: Helicoil - 3/8" BSF (Jim Hall)
  24. Re: 3/8" BSF: (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  25. Spare carrier?tow (Garrick Olsen)
  26. Re: Spare carrier?tow (Keith Tanner)
  27. Re: Spare carrier?tow (Rich Williams II)
  28. Re: Spare carrier?tow (David Scheidt)
  29. Re: Re: 3/8" BSF: (Kirk Hillman)
  30. Re: Re: 3/8" BSF: (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  31. Re: longest flex line (William J. Rice)
  32. Re: longest flex line (William J. Rice)
  33. Update on that mystery diff... (Keith Tanner)
  34. Re: Mole Grips (Dave Haynes)
  35. Re: Update on that mystery diff... (Bill Fishel)
  36. Re: longest flex line (David Scheidt)
  37. Re: longest flex line (David Scheidt)
  38. Re: Update on that mystery diff... (Keith Tanner)
  39. Re: Update on that mystery diff... ([email-masked])

--__--__--

Message: 1
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . .
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 21:15:26 +1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Thanks all for the tip on cutting the seal, makes a lot of sense.

I could be a series owner by this weekend. If so I'll let you all know and
post some pics.

Matt.

--__--__--

Message: 2
From: "Martin Rothman" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Sunk Land Rover
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 08:15:04 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>If it's not a lot of work, drop the sump, and clean it out.  I, being
>me, would also pull a con-rod bearing cap and take a look.  I toasted a
>2 1/4 doing exactly what you did.

Yah.  I was already thinking about doing this.

Thanks David.

Martin

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 3
From: "Todd Kendrick" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 08:32:43 -0600
Subject: [lro] 109" bleeding brake problems
Reply-To: [email-masked]

       After replacing a bad wheel cylinder and installing new rear shoes I
am having trouble bleeding brakes on '66 109" P/U. I am pretty sure I have
the rear shoes and springs on correctly thanks to many on this list. The
leading/trailing shoes are installed correctly w/ both springs behind the
shoes and seem to adjust OK. Question is this; do I need to jack up the
front of the truck to get all the air out of the 'CB' type master cylinder ?
Seems I remember hearing this somewhere. Other question is which way to
bleed;  rear to front or front to rear ( I have tried both) ? After
bleeding,  pedal has nothing on 1st pump but on 2nd pump seems to come
alive. Oh and I have been using EZ Bleed (one man bleeder) which seems to be
very effective. I have a friend down the dirt road that has the exact same
problem on his '60 109" SW. Any help appreciated; I have bled system at
least 5 times w/ no luck. Very frustrating......TIA.

Todd Kendrick
Taos, NM
'66 109" P/U

--__--__--

Message: 4
Subject: Re: [lro] 109" bleeding brake problems
From: Ian Stuart <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: 03 Oct 2001 15:49:50 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Wed, 2001-10-03 at 15:32, Todd Kendrick wrote:
> 
>        After replacing a bad wheel cylinder and installing new rear shoes I
> am having trouble bleeding brakes on '66 109" P/U. I am pretty sure I have
> the rear shoes and springs on correctly thanks to many on this list. The
> leading/trailing shoes are installed correctly w/ both springs behind the
> shoes and seem to adjust OK. Question is this; do I need to jack up the
> front of the truck to get all the air out of the 'CB' type master cylinder ?
> Seems I remember hearing this somewhere. Other question is which way to
> bleed;  rear to front or front to rear ( I have tried both) ? After
> bleeding,  pedal has nothing on 1st pump but on 2nd pump seems to come
> alive. Oh and I have been using EZ Bleed (one man bleeder) which seems to be
> very effective. I have a friend down the dirt road that has the exact same
> problem on his '60 109" SW. Any help appreciated; I have bled system at
> least 5 times w/ no luck. Very frustrating......TIA.
my tip is to use flexi-clamps to block off the other two circuits, and
then work on just the one..

If each circuit on it's own is OK, but the whole is bad, then the
problem is in the Master Cylinder..

-- 
--==++
Ian Stuart: Edinburgh University Data Library.
I build things: computer programs (with code); or cars (with metal)

 Personal web site: http://lucas.ucs.ed.ac.uk/ 

--__--__--

Message: 5
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Another sucessful relay removal
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 08:08:25 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Hey Pete - didn't you end up using something like 3/16th
> inch thick rectangular tubing for your frame?  I just went
> outside and measured my stock frame thickness in the area
> where I have the front frame horns open.  The thickness is
> a hair over 1/16th of an inch.  That would go a long way
> towards explaining the added weight of your frame.
>
> Tim Czajka
> 1972 Series III 88

Yes, it's 3x5x3/16 tubing for the rails and crossmembers.  Front bumber is
more of the same.  Roll cage is 2x1/4.  Center section of the custom rims is
1/4.

I know where the weight is coming from, just not real sure how much weight I
added.
Not worried about the weight either, even with the lift and big tires I have
a lower CoG then a stock Rover.
:-)
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 6
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] spare tire carriers and tow plates
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 08:34:10 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I have the tow plate if ya need it.  Don't have the tow jaw assembly for it
though it looks simple to build.
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 7
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 09:01:26 -0700 
Subject: [lro] Re: Painting a galvy frame and bulkhead?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Painting a galvy frame and bulkhead?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Aesthetic issues aside, is there any benefit to painting a galvanized frame 
and bulkhead?

Some people say they paint galvanized surfaces with no problem, but I have 
had several professional painters over the years tell me that paint doesn't stick 
to galvanizing very well over time.  So you would be smart to thoroughly investigate what 
sorts of primers and paints are suited for galvanized surfaces.  Talk to a paint 
professional, don't just take an amateur's word on it.  If you do it incorrectly, 
or if in fact paint does not like galvanized surfaces over time, you could end up 
with an unsightly mess underneath.

As to benefits, I can't imagine what they would be other than aesthetics if you don't 
like the look of silver galvanizing.  Paint, if you can get it to stick, will add another 
layer of protection.  But based on the longevity of the untreated, original frame under 
my '73 Series III, which has little more than the occasional patch of surface rust after 
28 years, I'm guessing that a properly galvanized frame will last as long as you need it 
to without the additional protection of paint.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
(original owner)
1973 Land Rover Series III-88
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

--__--__--

Message: 8
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 09:28:46 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] longest flex line
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Anyone know what it is?  I think I used one of mine (which I believe is
an RTC 3386--yeah, an 88" REAR flex line)  as a check strap the other day
and it's seeping a bit.  I'd like to get something an inch or two longer.

Anybody know if the one tonne fronts (577681) or the 109 fronts and rears
(RTC3353) significantly longer than the 3386s?  

If not, I'll probably just make up some aeroquip teflon lines . . .

bill

--__--__--

Message: 9
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 10:03:34 -0600
Subject: [lro] Helicoil - 3/8" BSF
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I need help.  I would like to fix the threads on a number of my hubs.  I
asked about Helicoil inserts but all the suppliers tell me that Helicoil
doesn't make it, 3/8" BSF that is.  I thought they used to make them but I
could be wrong.  Does anyone have a part number for a threading kit by
chance that I might be able to order in Canada?  I know Recoil lists them,
but I have no idea where I might locate a supplier in my neck of the woods
(Alberta, Canada).

Help!
Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 10
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 12:23:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] longest flex line
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Wed, 3 Oct 2001, William J. Rice wrote:

> 
> Anyone know what it is?  I think I used one of mine (which I believe is
> an RTC 3386--yeah, an 88" REAR flex line)  as a check strap the other day
> and it's seeping a bit.  I'd like to get something an inch or two longer.
> 

Bill, 

the flex lines aren't anything unusual.  You can take one to an auto parts 
store, show it to them, and say "Can I have this, but two inches longer?"  
After they're done laughing at you, look through the catalog and see what 
they've got.  Raybestos makes one that's about that.

David

--__--__--

Message: 11
Subject: Re: [lro] Helicoil - 3/8" BSF
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 12:23:50 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Good luck! I fixed mine by replacing the hubs....

Were I you I'd make a phone call overseas and get them out of the UK -
should be available there, no doubt.

                              ajr

--__--__--

Message: 12
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 12:56:35 EDT
From: [email-masked]
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] srs light
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Folks:

The bumber on my Disco 
was off for repair now the srs light is on.
Any ideas what i can do to fix it

Thank You
Dave Walls
1965  IIa88
1996 Disco

--__--__--

Message: 13
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 09:57:00 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] Helicoil - 3/8" BSF
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

For what it's worth, Rovers North advertises used hubs for $49.50.

Have you tried Wise Owl in Canada?

Jeff

on 10/3/01 9:03 AM, Kirk Hillman at [email-masked] wrote:

> 
> I need help.  I would like to fix the threads on a number of my hubs.  I
> asked about Helicoil inserts but all the suppliers tell me that Helicoil
> doesn't make it, 3/8" BSF that is.  I thought they used to make them but I
> could be wrong.  Does anyone have a part number for a threading kit by
> chance that I might be able to order in Canada?  I know Recoil lists them,
> but I have no idea where I might locate a supplier in my neck of the woods
> (Alberta, Canada).
> 
> Help!
> Kirk
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 14
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 12:58:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Helicoil - 3/8" BSF
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Wed, 3 Oct 2001, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:

> 
> Good luck! I fixed mine by replacing the hubs....

I fixed mine by tapping oversize a touch.  Metric, I think, even.

David, Cheap bastard

--__--__--

Message: 15
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 13:21:20 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: "A. P. (Sandy) Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Galvanizing
Reply-To: [email-masked]

N Forbes" <[email-masked]> wrote:

>As for galvanising a bulkhead, I've never ever heard of someone having one 
>warp on them. Keep in mind any bracing you add will NEVER come off. 
>Similarily, don't try to protect threads by having bolts in place with the 
>idea that you'll take them out afterwords. Not going to happen.

Niall is absolutely correct.  Any 'hardware' installed in boltholes or
whatnot will be permanently soldered in place.  A friend ran some bolts
into the door hinge holes  - which had to be drilled and tapped out.  Broke
the tap...*and* the subsequent tap extractor.... *Major* PITA, that was.

If you *really* want to try to protect a threaded hole, try
driving/twisting in a stub of a hardwood dowel.  This will seal the hole up
nicely and last long enough to keep the zinc out, uet still be easy to deal
with afterwards.

Cheers

	*-----"jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is legendary"----*
	|                 A. P. "Sandy" Grice                  |
	|    The Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd    |
	|     1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
	|     757-622-7054  (H)423-4898  (FAX)757-622-7056     |
	*------------------------------------------------------*

--__--__--

Message: 16
From: "Rich Williams II" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] spare tire carriers and tow plates
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 10:09:57 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

WOW - To all of those who have made various offers (both on and off list) of
tow plates and tire carriers - thank you very much.  Aside from the heated
debates and flame wars, this is a very generous lot.

I'll contact some of you off list when I figure out exactly what I am going
to do - there's so much out there that I don't think I will proceed with the
manufacture of these things.

Thanks again,

Rich
'60 SII 109sw

--__--__--

Message: 17
From: "Neil Brownlee" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] srs light
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 18:17:12 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

If you have the yellow SRS wiring, and therefore the crushcan system, as
opposed to the interia system on my '97. Ensure all connectors are snug.
Then disconnect the battery for about 1 hour. this will reset all ECU
related warning lights and also the ECU, so driving will be odd for the
first 5 miles.

When you disconnect the battery, ensure you follow the instructions in the
owners handbook if you have an LR alarm.

If the light comes again, after this, you have a problem that I suspect is a
dealer issue.

-------------------------------------------------------------

Neil

1978 Land Rover Series III 109" Ex-MOD - 'Harriet'
1997 Land Rover Discovery V8i ES - 'Piglet' - XD9000i, Terrain Master Winch
Bumper & Hi-Lift carrier, Bearmach steering/sump guard, Mantec Side
Protection Sills, Scorpion Racing +2" suspension lift, De-Carbon Shocks,
Southdown Fuel Tank Guard, 235/85/16  Goodyear Wrangler MT/R's, WH
Wheelcarriers Diff Guards, JE Engineering 4 Tailpipe SS Exhaust, Safari
Snorkel
1998 Land Rover Freelander - 'Misty'

http://www.landroverdiscoveryv8i.freeservers.com
http://community.webshots.com/user/landroverdiscoveryv8i
----- Original Message -----
From: <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2001 5:56 PM
Subject: [lro] srs light

Folks:

The bumber on my Disco
was off for repair now the srs light is on.
Any ideas what i can do to fix it

Thank You
Dave Walls
1965  IIa88
1996 Disco
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 18
Subject: Re: [lro] Helicoil - 3/8" BSF
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 13:21:44 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>I fixed mine by tapping oversize a touch.  Metric, I think, even.

That's how the originals on Mr. C were. The only problem with 'em was that
they had been done up to 3/8" coarse and a cruddy job done of it, too.

Another example of the "craftsmanship" of the late Ron Mowry....

>David, Cheap bastard

Redundant, repetitive.....8*)

                  ajr

--__--__--

Message: 19
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 13:23:56 -0400
Subject: [lro] I need a seatbox!
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Mr. Churchill is finally coming apart to go back together again - and I
find myself in need of a seatbox.

The present one has large holes and patches from differential corrosion
caused by the Diesel battery box. I can fix it and will if I need to, but
I'd much rather just shoot the sodding thing.

Anyone in New England got a decent spare, or elsewhere if you have a way
tro ship it?

                        Alan R.

--__--__--

Message: 20
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 13:48:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Helicoil - 3/8" BSF
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Wed, 3 Oct 2001, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:

> 
> >I fixed mine by tapping oversize a touch.  Metric, I think, even.
> 
> That's how the originals on Mr. C were. The only problem with 'em was that
> they had been done up to 3/8" coarse and a cruddy job done of it, too.

HElicoil back to 3/8" UNC or UNF, then.  No ned to buy new ones, if you're 
not attached to damn whit bolts.

--__--__--

Message: 21
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 11:50:01 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: "lro" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] 3/4 canvas trim
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I was stripping my truck cab down in order to paint it. I noticed that
the holes in the trim that goes around the back window for the 3/4 
canvas are quite large for the rivits that held it on. They appear to be
1/4" holes. Was this piece supposed to be bolted or rivited on? Also
does anybody have a spare right side gutter, the piece that drains the
water over the side of the bed? Thanks.
-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 22
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 11:57:12 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] longest flex line
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hey Bill, how long is yours? Flex line that is. I have one here with an 
SAE and DOT stamp that looks to be American and may be longer. It is 
15 1/2" from end to end.

William J. Rice wrote:
> 
> Anyone know what it is?  I think I used one of mine (which I believe is
> an RTC 3386--yeah, an 88" REAR flex line)  as a check strap the other day
> and it's seeping a bit.  I'd like to get something an inch or two longer.
> 
> Anybody know if the one tonne fronts (577681) or the 109 fronts and rears
> (RTC3353) significantly longer than the 3386s?
> 
> If not, I'll probably just make up some aeroquip teflon lines . . .
> 
> bill
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 23
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 11:58:36 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Helicoil - 3/8" BSF
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Why not change it to 3/8" NF. It would be easier to source bolts in the 
future.

Kirk Hillman wrote:
> 
> I need help.  I would like to fix the threads on a number of my hubs.  I
> asked about Helicoil inserts but all the suppliers tell me that Helicoil
> doesn't make it, 3/8" BSF that is. 
-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 24
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 14:09:11 -0400
Subject: [lro] Re: 3/8" BSF:
Reply-To: [email-masked]

If you do turn one or two of them into 3/8 SAE thread, do yourself a big
favore and paint the heads of the bolts (and the surround hole) red!

You will thank yourself when you avoid snapping a Whitworth bolt off in an
SAE-threaded hole..

                  ajr

--__--__--

Message: 25
From: "Garrick Olsen" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 13:12:14 -0500
Subject: [lro] Spare carrier?tow
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I've been a little disappointed with my set-up.

The tow pintile (?)is bent on the top arm and can only tolerated the next 
size down pin. I got it used and rusted for about $40 and then sanded and 
painted and bolted.

My rear door carrier is a RN Gen-u-ine, but disappointing because the lugs 
are not the same as on the rest of the truck (Note, Rich, Ser II)  and I am 
nervous about bending the door even more by actually hanging a tire back 
there.  The door has 2 hinges and I have to pick it up a bit to get it to 
close.

BTW, any way to reallign that rear door short of welding new plate and re 
drilling holes?

-Rik
1960 SWB SW

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 26
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 12:30:03 -0600
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Spare carrier?tow
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>BTW, any way to reallign that rear door short of welding new plate and re 
>drilling holes?

What's moving? It could be wear in the hinge pins themselves. Those are 
easy to replace and cheap.

Keith

--__--__--

Message: 27
From: "Rich Williams II" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Spare carrier?tow
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 12:26:20 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Before restoring the truck, my back door didn't close very well either due
to the same problem.  What about adding a third hinge - anyone done that?
And I second Rik's question about realigning the rear door...

Rich

----- Original Message -----
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2001 11:30 AM
Subject: Re: [lro] Spare carrier?tow

>BTW, any way to reallign that rear door short of welding new plate and re
>drilling holes?

What's moving? It could be wear in the hinge pins themselves. Those are
easy to replace and cheap.

Keith
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 28
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 16:12:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Spare carrier?tow
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Wed, 3 Oct 2001, Rich Williams II wrote:

> 
> Before restoring the truck, my back door didn't close very well either due
> to the same problem.  What about adding a third hinge - anyone done that?
> And I second Rik's question about realigning the rear door...
> 

Yeah, I've done it.  You need to make sure you get it lined up perfectly
though.

> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 29
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: 3/8" BSF:
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 14:08:40 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

AJR,
    I would go one better.  If I was to change the thread I would do ALL the
hubs not just one. I get frustrated to no end with half fixes and SPOT's.
My idea was to either Helicoil them or get new hubs, rather than having to
remember I changed this one or that.  The only reason I would bother with
the Helicoil system is that I have five hubs with at least one hole
stripped.  Four hubs will probably run over $200 and the Helicoil is less
than half that... and I can repair more holes in the future when -I- strip
them.  :-)

Kirk

"If you do turn one or two of them into 3/8 SAE thread, do yourself a big
favore and paint the heads of the bolts (and the surround hole) red!

You will thank yourself when you avoid snapping a Whitworth bolt off in an
SAE-threaded hole..

                  ajr"

--__--__--

Message: 30
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: 3/8" BSF:
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 16:45:42 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I would go one better.  If I was to change the thread I would do ALL the
hubs not just one.

I would do the same - but then again I've been called anal-retentive and
paranoid more than once.

Go for it - just take your time and do it right. Also, make sure to drill
in the unthreaded portion the way the original had - it's very handy for
setting the bolts as the open space gives you room to thread things in w/o
getting the bolts in cocked.

                              ajr

--__--__--

Message: 31
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 12:15:54 -0600
Subject: Re: [lro] longest flex line
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> the flex lines aren't anything unusual.  You can take one to an auto 
> parts 
> store, show it to them, and say "Can I have this, but two inches 
> longer

Yeah, I suspected as much--had a visit to CarQuest on my agenda this
afternoon.  If folks want the part numbers and lengths I come up w/,
lemme know.

bill

--__--__--

Message: 32
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 12:18:48 -0600
Subject: Re: [lro] longest flex line
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Yeah, that's 'zactly what I have.  I suspected it to be some normal US
line packaged and marked "Corresponding to RTC 3386".  It says 1/8 HL SAE
J1401 21129.  

bill

On Wed, 03 Oct 2001 11:57:12 -0600 "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]> writes:
> 
> Hey Bill, how long is yours? Flex line that is. I have one here with 
> an 
> SAE and DOT stamp that looks to be American and may be longer. It is 
> 
> 15 1/2" from end to end.

--__--__--

Message: 33
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 17:29:59 -0600
To: "lro-koan.team.net" <[email-masked]>
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Update on that mystery diff...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Okay, not a lot of extra info. But it IS a four-spider diff. Peeking in 
through the holes in the cylinder, I can see four spider gears.The stubs 
(?) that the spiders run on may be assymetrically placed, I'm not sure. 
Even on close inspection, there's no visible damage to this thing. I'm half 
tempted to throw it back in the truck for Camp Rover West.

The original photos: http://keith.miata.net/landy/images/diff_old.jpg
http://keith.miata.net/landy/images/diff_old02.jpg

For your further puzzlement and entertainment.

Keith

------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

--__--__--

Message: 34
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 21:00:07 -0700
From: Dave Haynes <[email-masked]>
Organization: Wireless Solutions Ltd.
To: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Re: Mole Grips
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Frank wrote :-
>molegrips are vicegrips (vise?)

Mole is/was a trade name, like Hoover meaning vacuum cleaner, or Xerox
meaning photocopier.

Real Mole wrenches were made at a factory in Newport, South Wales.
I remember as a kid that the factory was next to two road tunnels,
taking the M4 motorway through a hillside (Brynglas Tunnels). On the roof
of the factory they had an enormous fibreglass mole, standing outside
the tunnel entrance looking down the road. As a kid, I loved it though
I don't think I made the connection between the mole and the holes at
the time!

Just thought I'd share the childhood memories with you guys!
If only I'd known how much of a part Molegrips would play in my
future :-)

Best regards,
 Dave

       __         Dave Haynes
    __|__\__      RF Consultant
   | _|` | _}o    Wireless Solutions Ltd.
   "(_)"""(_)"    Mob: +44 (0)701 070 3554
                  [email-masked]

--__--__--

Message: 35
From: "Bill Fishel" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Update on that mystery diff...
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 21:34:06 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Just out of curiosity, are you using a LSD additive in with your gear lube?
Talked to a couple of speed racer guys that swear you need an additive in a locker or you get chirping and hopping and other funny symptoms.
Bill Fishel

----------
> From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
> To: lro-koan.team.net <[email-masked]>
> Subject: [lro] Update on that mystery diff...
> Date: Wednesday, October 03, 2001 7:29 PM
> 
> 
> Okay, not a lot of extra info. But it IS a four-spider diff. Peeking in 
> through the holes in the cylinder, I can see four spider gears.The stubs 
> (?) that the spiders run on may be assymetrically placed, I'm not sure. 
> Even on close inspection, there's no visible damage to this thing. I'm half 
> tempted to throw it back in the truck for Camp Rover West.
> 
> The original photos: http://keith.miata.net/landy/images/diff_old.jpg
> http://keith.miata.net/landy/images/diff_old02.jpg
> 
> For your further puzzlement and entertainment.
> 
> Keith
> 
> 
> ------------
> Keith's page de home:
>     http://keith.miata.net
> ------------
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 36
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 22:39:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] longest flex line
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Wed, 3 Oct 2001, William J. Rice wrote:

> 
> Yeah, that's 'zactly what I have.  I suspected it to be some normal US
> line packaged and marked "Corresponding to RTC 3386".  It says 1/8 HL SAE
> J1401 21129.  

Brake bits sold for use on road cars in the US have to have DOT approval, 
which is what those SAE markings are.  (DOT might also recognize some foreign 
countries certifications.)  That's true if they are really goofy threads or are 
normal SAE or metric stuff.  That's one of the reason that some of the high 
quality, race grade stainless steel braided flex lines aren't for use on
road vehicles.

--__--__--

Message: 37
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 22:46:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] longest flex line
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Wed, 3 Oct 2001, William J. Rice wrote:

> 
> > the flex lines aren't anything unusual.  You can take one to an auto 
> > parts 
> > store, show it to them, and say "Can I have this, but two inches 
> > longer
> 
> Yeah, I suspected as much--had a visit to CarQuest on my agenda this
> afternoon.  If folks want the part numbers and lengths I come up w/,
> lemme know.
> 

I dug up an old post from al richer that suggests "PG Plus Professional
grade" BH35046.  That's stock., I'd bet.  There's a chevy application
(mid 70's car of some sort.) that's a bit longer.

--__--__--

Message: 38
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 23:33:41 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Update on that mystery diff...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

No - I poured plain old 90wt in there, unaware that there might be anything 
unusual about the moving parts inside. I've been asking questions about the 
fluid since I discovered that it was not an open diff, but nobody else has 
thought there should be a difference. The symptoms started after a fluid 
change - the first or the second for this diff since I bought the truck, I 
can't say. I know that I wasn't able to change ONE of the ends the first 
time I tried, but I forget which.

I'm going to reinstall that old diff again, add an LSD additive and see 
what happens. Hopefully the clutch will begin to slip again (with no 
permanent damage - I figure a non-slipping clutch is not doing damage like 
an overly-slipping one is) and I'll be a happy camper. Apparantly GM stocks 
one.

Keith

At 21:34 03-10-01, you wrote:

>Just out of curiosity, are you using a LSD additive in with your gear lube?
>Talked to a couple of speed racer guys that swear you need an additive in 
>a locker or you get chirping and hopping and other funny symptoms.
>Bill Fishel
>
>----------
> > From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
> > To: lro-koan.team.net <[email-masked]>
> > Subject: [lro] Update on that mystery diff...
> > Date: Wednesday, October 03, 2001 7:29 PM
> >
> >
> > Okay, not a lot of extra info. But it IS a four-spider diff. Peeking in
> > through the holes in the cylinder, I can see four spider gears.The stubs
> > (?) that the spiders run on may be assymetrically placed, I'm not sure.
> > Even on close inspection, there's no visible damage to this thing. I'm 
> half
> > tempted to throw it back in the truck for Camp Rover West.
> >
> > The original photos: http://keith.miata.net/landy/images/diff_old.jpg
> > http://keith.miata.net/landy/images/diff_old02.jpg
> >
> > For your further puzzlement and entertainment.
> >
> > Keith
> >
> >
> > ------------
> > Keith's page de home:
> >     http://keith.miata.net
> > ------------
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

--__--__--

Message: 39
From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 01:42:28 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] Update on that mystery diff...
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 10/3/01 5:36:19 PM, [email-masked] writes:

<< Okay, not a lot of extra info. But it IS a four-spider diff. Peeking in 
through the holes in the cylinder, I can see four spider gears.The stubs 
(?) that the spiders run on may be assymetrically placed, I'm not sure. 
Even on close inspection, there's no visible damage to this thing. I'm half 
tempted to throw it back in the truck for Camp Rover West.

Keith
    As I mentioned to you off line, I came into possesion of one of these 
type diffs on Monday. I got together with my diff guy, who has a much broader 
experience with non-rover diffs than I. The conclusion was that the factory 
Land Rover diff is actually a Dana Power-Lok. Dana made/makes a Track-Lok, 
which is a 2 pinion carrier and a Power-Lok, which is the 4 pinion carrier. 
The way they operate is that they are basicly always locked until the unit 
reaches a certain preset torque level and then it will release the torque by 
the internal clutches slipping. He says that the nice thing about Power-Loks 
is that you can adjust the preload by shimming them. The Rover model suffered 
from the cross shafts breaking but I suspect it was related to axles breaking 
- man these things would have been hell on axles - no wonder Rover replaced 
most of them under warranty! No diff really likes sudden releases of torque 
from one half of the unit. I am checking to see if I can source parts for 
them.

Bill
GBR

--__--__--

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