Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #108 - 37 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 03:15:26 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . . (apsilon)
   2. Re: Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . . ([email-masked])
   3. Series Tie Rod ends, , NAPA? ? or Best Price ([email-masked])
   4. Re: Mysterious elec. problem (Bill Adams)
   5. Re: Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . . (RON WARD)
   6. Re: Brake Adjustors.... (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
   7. Re: The soul of a Land Rover (was fixing up a Land Rover) (Steve Reddock)
   8. Re: Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . . (Ian Stuart)
   9. Disco   SRS   Light is on ([email-masked])
  10. Re: Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . . (William J. Rice)
  11. Re: Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . . (John Cranfield)
  12. Re: Photo of mystery diff. ([email-masked])
  13. Re: Soul (Faure, Marin)
  14. Painting a galvy frame and bulkhead? (Keith Tanner)
  15. Re: Soul (Faure, Marin)
  16. Re: Painting a galvy frame and bulkhead? (Jim Hall)
  17. Re: Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . . (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  18. Re: Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . . (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  19. Re: Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . . (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  20. Re: Sunk Land Rover (Faure, Marin)
  21. Re: Painting a galvy frame and bulkhead? (N Forbes)
  22. Re: Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . . (RON WARD)
  23. Re: Painting a galvy frame and bulkhead? (Keith Tanner)
  24. Re: Painting a galvy frame and bulkhead? (Jim Hall)
  25. Re: Painting a galvy frame and bulkhead? (Michael Hatton)
  26. Re: Painting a galvy frame and bulkhead? (Jim Hall)
  27. Re: Mole grips (Frank Elson)
  28. SV: [lro] Re: Soul (=?Windows-1252?Q?Mattias_Bostr=F6m?=)
  29. Re: Re: Sunk Land Rover (Martin Rothman)
  30. Re: Sunk Land Rover (David Scheidt)
  31. Re: Painting a galvy frame and bulkhead? (Jean-Leon Morin)
  32. Re: Re: Jeep engines(was:Fixing up a Land Rover) (Jean-Leon Morin)
  33. spare tire carriers and tow plates (Rich Williams II)
  34. Re: Mole grips (N Forbes)
  35. Re: spare tire carriers and tow plates (Peter Ogilvie)
  36. Re: spare tire carriers and tow plates (Rich & Lori Williams)
  37. Re: Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . . (Mark  Love)

--__--__--

Message: 1
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . .
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 20:41:22 +1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi all,

As I'm new to Land Rover and 4WDs and am currently looking at a '75 series
III 88 with a leaking seal can anyone explain what these cuts are that have
been mentioned?

Thanks,
Matt.
Soon to be series III 88 owner?

>
> Easy.  Bend the seal and slip it over the axle.  Bend it back and she
stays put with the little spring thingy.  Make sure to stagger the cuts on
the oil seal and the oil seal retaining bracket so the cuts are not lined
up.
> Ron

--__--__--

Message: 2
From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 08:06:15 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . .
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Matt-
Terri Ann Wakeman (knowledgeable and thorough) covers it on her site @

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman/LR/LRhubseal.htm

Basically you cut off the off swivel seal and 'cleanly' cut the new seal and 
bend it to get it on. Then place the cut at the top of the seal out of the 
way of 90 wght. oil. I did it last night and it took me a little over an hour 
with pulling the wheel. Far quicker then pulling, half shaft, loosening the 
tie rod, brake line etc. . . see how she will hold today. "we are holding are 
own" as famous last words go.

Most important thing is the swivel balls MUST be clean and free of pits and 
deep blemishes. If they are pitted then need to be replaced. I've heard of 
epoxying them smooth but I don't have any information or experience with 
epoxy and steel. (epoxy and wood/fiberglass, yes. Wood, no)

Hope this helps. I'm sure others can add more to it.

Scott Just
Rochester Hills, MI
68 '109  reg.

PS- I   FORGOT, , , be sure to leave the old spring 'do-heeky'  (official 
rover name) from the old swivel seal, it will be used to hold the new cut 
seal. 

--__--__--

Message: 3
From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 08:10:14 EDT
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Series Tie Rod ends, , NAPA? ? or Best Price
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Anyone know who has the best deal on Tie Rod Ends for a Series?
Is there a NAPA part number, like the U-joints or are they 'rover' specific?
I need all six.
Thanks
Scott Just
Rochester Hills, MI
'68 '109 Reg.

--__--__--

Message: 4
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 08:27:31 -0400
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Organization: U.S. International Broadcasting Bureau
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Mysterious elec. problem
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Check all your grounds and connections for cleanliness and good
contact/tightness. 
-- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

--__--__--

Message: 5
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 08:31:45 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . .
Reply-To: [email-masked]

The rubber seal that ride on the surface of the swivel ball (inside of the front wheel hubs) can be replaced two ways.  Rebuild the hub and put the seal on in one peace.  Or cut the seal at the top, all the way through and bend the ends away, perpendicularly away from one another.  The seal, by the way is shaped like doughnut or a tire or hoolahoop or life saver or similar round object with a hole in the middle.

The metal retaining ring is the same shape as the seal only it has a flat flanged outer edge with holes so it can be bolted on top of the seal.  Cut the retaining ring all the way through, only at a different point on the ring from the seal so the cuts don't line up.  Repeat fitting procedure and you're done.

Ron

>>> [email-masked] 10/02/01 06:41AM >>>

Hi all,

As I'm new to Land Rover and 4WDs and am currently looking at a '75 series
III 88 with a leaking seal can anyone explain what these cuts are that have
been mentioned?

Thanks,
Matt.
Soon to be series III 88 owner?

>
> Easy.  Bend the seal and slip it over the axle.  Bend it back and she
stays put with the little spring thingy.  Make sure to stagger the cuts on
the oil seal and the oil seal retaining bracket so the cuts are not lined
up.
> Ron
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked] 
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 6
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake Adjustors....
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 08:35:52 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

 Al Richer prefers "parsimonious old bastards".
Dave

I am NOT old!

            ajr

--__--__--

Message: 7
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 22:01:44 +0900
To: [email-masked]
From: Steve Reddock <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] The soul of a Land Rover (was fixing up a Land Rover)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>On Fri, 2001-09-28 at 16:52, TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
> >On a related note, where does the "soul" of a Land Rover reside?

In the leaks.

Steve

--__--__--

Message: 8
Subject: Re: [lro] Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . .
From: Ian Stuart <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: 02 Oct 2001 14:21:41 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Tue, 2001-10-02 at 13:31, RON WARD wrote:
> The metal retaining ring is the same shape as the seal only it has a
> flat flanged outer edge with holes so it can be bolted on top of the
> seal.  Cut the retaining ring all the way through, only at a different
> point on the ring from the seal so the cuts don't line up.  Repeat
> fitting procedure and you're done.

You shouldn't need to do anything to the retainer... the one than you
undo will sit on the end of the axel whilst you put your new (cut)
oil-seal in place. That way the retaining plate holds the oil-seal
fully.

-- 
--==++
Ian Stuart: Edinburgh University Data Library.
I build things: computer programs (with code); or cars (with metal)

 Personal web site: http://lucas.ucs.ed.ac.uk/ 

--__--__--

Message: 9
From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 10:42:52 EDT
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Disco   SRS   Light is on
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Folks:

The bumber on my Disco 
was off for repair now the srs light is on.
Any ideas what i can do to fix it

Thank You
Dave Walls
1965  IIa88
1996 Disco

--__--__--

Message: 10
To: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 08:46:30 -0600
Subject: Re: [lro] Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . .
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Yeah, but what Ian said about the retainer ring (just let it hang on the
axle tube while you slip the new seal on).  AND don't forget to remove
the spring that holds the seal lip against the ball BEFORE cutting
through the seal.  Reinstall it once you have the seal finaggled around
the axle tube and in some semblance of its original shape.

bill

On Tue, 02 Oct 2001 08:31:45 -0400 "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
writes:
> 
> The rubber seal that ride on the surface of the swivel ball (inside 
> of the front wheel hubs) can be replaced two ways.  

--__--__--

Message: 11
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 12:31:02 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . .
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Don't forget to order 2 sets of seals while you are at it. So you can do
it right the second time.
John and Muddy 

"William J. Rice" wrote:
> 
> Yeah, but what Ian said about the retainer ring (just let it hang on the
> axle tube while you slip the new seal on).  AND don't forget to remove
> the spring that holds the seal lip against the ball BEFORE cutting
> through the seal.  Reinstall it once you have the seal finaggled around
> the axle tube and in some semblance of its original shape.
> 
> bill
> 
> On Tue, 02 Oct 2001 08:31:45 -0400 "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
> writes:
> >
> > The rubber seal that ride on the surface of the swivel ball (inside
> > of the front wheel hubs) can be replaced two ways.
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 12
From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 11:46:36 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] Photo of mystery diff.
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 10/1/01 1:33:43 PM, [email-masked] writes:

<<  Bill, just as 
an unrelated question, how string are the axles in the new range rovers/disco 
IIs?

adam >>

adam
    They are about the same size as the D1 and the 24 spline later Range 
Rovers so they are comparable but they are no longer a full floating design. 
This has two effects 1) you do lose a little axle strength because now the 
axle shafts, in addition to providing drive, also support he weight of the 
vehicle. A full float axle shaft will always be stronger than a semi-float if 
all is equal.
2) If you do break an axle, it is much harder to swap it out.
    I will very shortly be releasing an upgraded rear axle for the D2's. Not 
sure when if ever an upgraded 4.0/4.6 axle will debut. It seems that folks 
that spend $60,000+ for a rig just aren't interested in thrashing it 
unmercifully in the bush. Can you imagine that!

Bill
GBR

--__--__--

Message: 13
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 09:12:01 -0700 
Subject: [lro] Re: Soul
Reply-To: [email-masked]

From: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 23:44:21 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] Soul and ALL THAT CRAP
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>It doesn't matter if 
you have a Land Rover, a Jeep, a Land Cruiser, or whatever, its what you do 
with it.  Please, could we keep this discussion off list from now on, I
would 
be very grateful.

Fair enough request.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
(original owner)
1973 Land Rover Series III-88
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

--__--__--

Message: 14
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 10:24:40 -0600
To: "lro-koan.team.net" <[email-masked]>
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Painting a galvy frame and bulkhead?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Aesthetic issues aside, is there any benefit to painting a galvanized frame 
and bulkhead? Assume that all I know about painting is which end of the 
brush to use, so I need to know what sort of surface prep is needed for zinc.

Also, tips on galvanizing a bulkhead would be appreciated. I'm guessing 
that adding a couple of braces might cut down the possibility of warping.

Keith

------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

--__--__--

Message: 15
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 09:38:00 -0700 
Subject: [lro] Re: Soul
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 08:56:49 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Soul and all that crap
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Marin, You obviously do care as we all do, because you wrote 7 paragraphs explaining that you do not.
"me thinketh that you doth protest too much" :-)

Well, you could be led to believe that I guess.  But the culprit is really my editing computer.  I'm using a lot 
of effects in the videos I'm producing right now, and while our new systems take a lot less time to render 
effects than the old ones, the result has been that I'm doing much more complicated effects.  So the render 
time is still significant. While the effects are rendering, there's not much I can do but wait.  So that's when 
I look through the LRO digest and write this stuff.  It's something to do until we can continue editing.  It's 
not that I really care what people do with their Land Rovers, nor do I attach any personality or soul to mine.  
It's just a subject that's interesting to discuss from one point of view or the other to pass the time if someone 
raises the issue.  I get the digest, so I simply skip any posts that have subject lines I'm not interested in.  
I assumed everyone else did the same, and if they didn't want to waste time on what's a Land Rover 
and what isn't, they'd simply skip the posts.  But perhaps a lot of people get the individual posts as 
they come in, and I can see how it could be annoying to get distracted by message announcements 
of messages you aren't interested in.

I've always regarded this list as an interesting diversion and a 
useful source of information when you need it, but certainly nothing particularly important in the 
overall scheme of things.  But judging by the angry reaction to the subject of "soul," I guess I 
assumed wrong.  So while I find it impossible to identify with anyone who 
takes a vehicle as seriously as some people apparently do, I am sorry for taking up people's 
time by continuing a discussion that apparently upsets so many people.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
(original owner)
1973 Land Rover Series III-88
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

--__--__--

Message: 16
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 10:43:24 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Painting a galvy frame and bulkhead?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

We braced Bills on the bottom with some heavy angle. Bill's looks quite
nice unpainted, but if painted, you would need an acid etch primer. The
door hinges will no longer be adjustable on the bulkhead. Bill left his 
off, but I might be tempted to leave the bulkhead half on to keep door
alignment. Either way use grade 8 bolts that are just long enough to go
through all the threads, but not stick out the far side of the nuts. We
had to drill one out that broke while trying to remove it afterwards.

Keith Tanner wrote:
> 
> Aesthetic issues aside, is there any benefit to painting a galvanized frame
> and bulkhead? Assume that all I know about painting is which end of the
> brush to use, so I need to know what sort of surface prep is needed for zinc.
> 
> Also, tips on galvanizing a bulkhead would be appreciated. I'm guessing
> that adding a couple of braces might cut down the possibility of warping.
> 
> Keith
> 
> ------------
> Keith's page de home:
>     http://keith.miata.net
> ------------
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 17
Subject: Re: [lro] Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . .
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 01 09:23:56 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>The metal retaining ring is the same shape as the seal only it has a flat 
>flanged outer edge with holes so it can be bolted on top of the seal.  Cut 
>the retaining ring all the way through, only at a different point on the 
>ring from the seal so the cuts don't line up.

I've never had to replace a retaining ring since they do not wear.  But I 
guess in some places oxidation could cause problems.  Sounds like it 
would work.  Clean yours up first and if it is in good shape reuse it.

Dont forget to keep track of where the steering stop bolt is supposed to 
be.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 18
Subject: Re: [lro] Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . .
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 01 09:17:45 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> see how she will hold today.

I've had cut seals last several years.  What kills them is forgetting to 
clean the crud off the swivels.  Sharp edged sand is about the worst.  If 
you are religious at wiping them down every time you do maintenance and 
right after every off road trip they last many years.  Bottom line is 
that a cut seal will last you every bit as long as an uncut one would.

>PS- I   FORGOT, , , be sure to leave the old spring 'do-heeky'  (official 
>rover name) from the old swivel seal, it will be used to hold the new cut 
>seal. 

That works.  The circular spring used on the seal is really a straight 
spring in disguise.  One end of the spring tapers down to a point.  You 
put a twist on the tapered end, insert it into the non tapered side and 
let the tension go.  If you twisted it the correct direction the tapered 
end "screws" into the other end making a ring spring.  SO if you find the 
end you can open then reclose a ring spring.

The things you learn while keeping a Land Rover on the road for over 20 
years while putting lots and lots of miles on it.  I'm very fortunate 
having had a Land Rover factory trained mechanic who came up through the 
old traditional British apprintiship ranks as a mentor.

Of course I could have bought a different car back in 1976 and lived a 
very different life.  One free of 90 wt and a bulging tool box.  

Sometimes it's those little spur of the moment decisions about wanting a 
change....

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 19
Subject: Re: [lro] Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . .
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 01 08:49:53 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>As I'm new to Land Rover and 4WDs and am currently looking at a '75 series
>III 88 with a leaking seal can anyone explain what these cuts are that have
>been mentioned?

I wrote a how-to web page about this a few years back.  It's at:

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman/LR/LRhubseal.htm

Briefly, the oil is not under pressure and the oil level goes about half 
way up the seal.  This is a method that allows you to change the seal 
without removing the swivel ball.  The cut is placed at the top of the 
seal where it only receives oil splash.  It works just fine.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 20
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 09:57:15 -0700 
Subject: [lro] Re: Sunk Land Rover
Reply-To: [email-masked]

From: "Martin Rothman" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 15:47:41 -0400
Subject: [lro] Sunk Land Rover
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Obviously I sucked in some water and it 
emulsified with the oil...... My question is, how 
do I ensure that I have all the crud out of the 
inaccessable part of the engine?  Any and all 
suggestions are appreciated.

What you are doing is the best thing.  Change the 
oil and filter, run the engine for awhile, change oil 
and filter again.  When the oil you're getting out is 
clean, you're in good shape.  Once you get clean 
oil out, it might be a good idea to change the oil 
and filter again at perhaps 500 miles.

The only way to ensure every spec of crud is out 
is to tear down and reassemble the engine, which 
I suspect you don't really want to do.  One thing 
you might do is add a quart of ATF (automatic 
transmission fluid) to the oil in the engine.  ATF has a 
much higher detergent content than the off-the-shelf 
sludge and varnish remover sold in auto stores.  Run 
the ATF in the oil for 1000 miles or so, and it should 
help get out any crud that's still in the engine.  Use 
caution, however.  Do not substitute a quart of 
ATF for one of the quarts of oil your engine normally 
takes, add the ATF to the full capacity of engine oil.  
Also, don't think because one quart of ATF might help, 
two will help more.  ATF has an extremely low viscosity, 
and adding more than a quart will thin your engine oil 
too much.

I used this method to free a sticking lifter on our Range 
Rover's V-8, and I use it regularly in our Ford F-250 
with the 300 cubic inch six to combat that engine's 
strong tendency to hang lifters.  This technique is not 
something I came up with on my own, but we recommended 
by two sources: Rovers North and a friend at Alaska Diesel 
Electric who has been designing and servicing marine engines 
for over 30 years.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
(original owner)
1973 Land Rover Series III-88
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

--__--__--

Message: 21
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Painting a galvy frame and bulkhead?
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 17:12:44 +0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Keith,
I've heard that the zinc will actually creep into scratches. Sort of the 
glavanising healing itself if it gets damaged and that paint can stop this. 
However, I would paint it just because a lot of people have rusty boddy 
cappings and those were galvanised. I figure, keep it out of the weather and 
it'll last longer. Most things do. Of course, I could be wrong.

As for galvanising a bulkhead, I've never ever heard of someone having one 
warp on them. Keep in mind any bracing you add will NEVER come off. 
Similarily, don't try to protect threads by having bolts in place with the 
idea that you'll take them out afterwords. Not going to happen.

That's all I know.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
--author unknown

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 22
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 13:15:01 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . .
Reply-To: [email-masked]

True enough, unless the existing retaining ring is rusty and buggered up like mine were...

>>> [email-masked] 10/02/01 09:21AM >>>

On Tue, 2001-10-02 at 13:31, RON WARD wrote:
> The metal retaining ring is the same shape as the seal only it has a
> flat flanged outer edge with holes so it can be bolted on top of the
> seal.  Cut the retaining ring all the way through, only at a different
> point on the ring from the seal so the cuts don't line up.  Repeat
> fitting procedure and you're done.

You shouldn't need to do anything to the retainer... the one than you
undo will sit on the end of the axel whilst you put your new (cut)
oil-seal in place. That way the retaining plate holds the oil-seal
fully.

-- 
--==++
Ian Stuart: Edinburgh University Data Library.
I build things: computer programs (with code); or cars (with metal)

 Personal web site: http://lucas.ucs.ed.ac.uk/ 
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked] 
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 23
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 10:59:25 -0600
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Painting a galvy frame and bulkhead?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

A couple of clarifications:

- grade 8 bolts for the bracing? Is this not overkill?
- the bulkhead and frame are from different trucks, so the best prep would 
be to install the bulkhead, get the door hinges aligned (and perhaps leave 
them half-installed?) and do it that way. Right?

I'm toying with the idea of leaving everything unpainted but I'll paint it 
if that means things are better protected. Do you have any photos of Bill's 
truck with the bare bulkhead?

Keith

>We braced Bills on the bottom with some heavy angle. Bill's looks quite
>nice unpainted, but if painted, you would need an acid etch primer. The
>door hinges will no longer be adjustable on the bulkhead. Bill left his
>off, but I might be tempted to leave the bulkhead half on to keep door
>alignment. Either way use grade 8 bolts that are just long enough to go
>through all the threads, but not stick out the far side of the nuts. We
>had to drill one out that broke while trying to remove it afterwards.

--__--__--

Message: 24
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 12:17:46 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Painting a galvy frame and bulkhead?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

The bracing will come off, especially if spaced with a small washer or
heated with a torch to loosen the zinc. The same with bolt holes. All
but one of the grade 5 bolts in the hinge holes came out, hence my
suggestion for grade 8 and to not thread them past the back of the nut
plate as that is what caused us problems. Heat will help on these as 
well since zinc melts at a relatively low temperature.

N Forbes wrote:

> As for galvanising a bulkhead, I've never ever heard of someone having one
> warp on them. Keep in mind any bracing you add will NEVER come off.
> Similarily, don't try to protect threads by having bolts in place with the
> idea that you'll take them out afterwords. Not going to happen.

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 25
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 14:28:53 -0400
From: Michael Hatton <[email-masked]>
To: "lro-koan.team.net" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Painting a galvy frame and bulkhead?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I have just finished installing my galvy bulkhead (SIII) and the only
buckling I had was minor, on some of the larger flat panels. I refitted it
on my own, and only a tiny bit of help from jack to get the two large
frame bolts in. I did not have any bracing fitted.
As for the bolt holes, I used high temp silicone, which worked OK, and
would have worked a whole lot better if I had spent more than 5 minutes on
it. The silicone held up well, even in the acid bath, as all the paint and
grunge was still on the bulkhead when I delivered it to them.

Since I am painting the rest of the truck, I am also painting the outside
of the bulkhead to match. I don't want cover up all that loverly zinc :)

Michael Hatton
1972 SIII 88"

On Tue, 2 Oct 2001, Keith Tanner wrote:

>
> Aesthetic issues aside, is there any benefit to painting a galvanized frame
> and bulkhead? Assume that all I know about painting is which end of the
> brush to use, so I need to know what sort of surface prep is needed for zinc.
>
> Also, tips on galvanizing a bulkhead would be appreciated. I'm guessing
> that adding a couple of braces might cut down the possibility of warping.
>
> Keith
>
> ------------
> Keith's page de home:
>     http://keith.miata.net
> ------------
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 26
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 12:27:22 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Painting a galvy frame and bulkhead?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

http://silverstone.fortunecity.com/cowley/62/kellyflats.html for 
pictures from different angles or
http://silverstone.fortunecity.com/cowley/62/kellymerdlintree.jpg for 
the best front shot. Grade 8 was for the hinge bolts. I have also not
seen galvanized hinges, so do not know how much they would fill up with
zinc. I would try it with them on, but if you don't want to mess with
possibly drilling/grinding the zinc out of the holes, then maybe leave 
them off and take your chances on alignment.

Keith Tanner wrote:
> 
> A couple of clarifications:
> 
> - grade 8 bolts for the bracing? Is this not overkill?
> - the bulkhead and frame are from different trucks, so the best prep would
> be to install the bulkhead, get the door hinges aligned (and perhaps leave
> them half-installed?) and do it that way. Right?
> 
> I'm toying with the idea of leaving everything unpainted but I'll paint it
> if that means things are better protected. Do you have any photos of Bill's
> truck with the bare bulkhead?
> 
> Keith
> 
> >We braced Bills on the bottom with some heavy angle. Bill's looks quite
> >nice unpainted, but if painted, you would need an acid etch primer. The
> >door hinges will no longer be adjustable on the bulkhead. Bill left his
> >off, but I might be tempted to leave the bulkhead half on to keep door
> >alignment. Either way use grade 8 bolts that are just long enough to go
> >through all the threads, but not stick out the far side of the nuts. We
> >had to drill one out that broke while trying to remove it afterwards.
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 27
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Mole grips
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 19:20:14 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Andrew writes about molegrips and angry moles in a cage (this suit you
digesters?)

I want to buy a bridge from this man :-)>
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

--__--__--

Message: 28
From: =?Windows-1252?Q?Mattias_Bostr=F6m?= <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: SV: [lro] Re: Soul
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 20:53:25 +0200
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I for one enjoy to read your posts to the list. They are practically the
only things I read...

-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Fren: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]Fvr Faure,
Marin
Skickat: den 2 oktober 2001 18:38
Till: 'Land Rover Mail Group'
Dmne: [lro] Re: Soul

Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 08:56:49 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Soul and all that crap
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Marin, You obviously do care as we all do, because you wrote 7 paragraphs
explaining that you do not.
"me thinketh that you doth protest too much" :-)

Well, you could be led to believe that I guess.  But the culprit is really
my editing computer.  I'm using a lot
of effects in the videos I'm producing right now, and while our new systems
take a lot less time to render
effects than the old ones, the result has been that I'm doing much more
complicated effects.  So the render
time is still significant. While the effects are rendering, there's not much
I can do but wait.  So that's when
I look through the LRO digest and write this stuff.  It's something to do
until we can continue editing.  It's
not that I really care what people do with their Land Rovers, nor do I
attach any personality or soul to mine.
It's just a subject that's interesting to discuss from one point of view or
the other to pass the time if someone
raises the issue.  I get the digest, so I simply skip any posts that have
subject lines I'm not interested in.
I assumed everyone else did the same, and if they didn't want to waste time
on what's a Land Rover
and what isn't, they'd simply skip the posts.  But perhaps a lot of people
get the individual posts as
they come in, and I can see how it could be annoying to get distracted by
message announcements
of messages you aren't interested in.

I've always regarded this list as an interesting diversion and a
useful source of information when you need it, but certainly nothing
particularly important in the
overall scheme of things.  But judging by the angry reaction to the subject
of "soul," I guess I
assumed wrong.  So while I find it impossible to identify with anyone who
takes a vehicle as seriously as some people apparently do, I am sorry for
taking up people's
time by continuing a discussion that apparently upsets so many people.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
(original owner)
1973 Land Rover Series III-88
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 29
From: "Martin Rothman" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Sunk Land Rover
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 15:01:32 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>This technique is not
>something I came up with on my own, but we recommended
>by two sources: Rovers North and a friend at Alaska Diesel
>Electric who has been designing and servicing marine engines
>for over 30 years.

Thanks Marin. I do appreciate you suggestions.

Regards,

Martin

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 30
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 15:22:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: Martin Rothman <[email-masked]>
Cc: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Sunk Land Rover
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Mon, 1 Oct 2001, Martin Rothman wrote:

> 
> 
> My question is, how do I ensure that I have all the crud out of the 
> inaccessable part of the engine?  Any and all suggestions are appreciated.

If it's not a lot of work, drop the sump, and clean it out.  I, being
me, would also pull a con-rod bearing cap and take a look.  I toasted a 
2 1/4 doing exactly what you did.

--__--__--

Message: 31
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Painting a galvy frame and bulkhead?
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 16:51:47 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Keith, a galvanized bulkhead is something you should show off ! I should
point out that the breakfast on Bill Rices' truck is galvanized as well - If
you are going to get things dipped, get it all done. It's worth it - Imagine
if it had been at the factory.

I was thinking the best thing to do with a galvanized bulkhead (and
hopefully I'll have one someday) would be to have the footwells sprayed with
Line-X, inside and out. This would act as a decent noise insulator, and
would keep the zinc protected. I am actually thinking of having the interior
done all the way up to under the dash, to insulate against heat and cold.
Someone was saying (name escapes me) that the stuff is so high build it will
actually seal off small holes. Also, keeping the stray rock expelled by a
tire would be a bonus.

Anyone know if the line-x stuff will stick? I remember being told that
Galvanized steel needs to be rubbed down with muriatic acid to "etch" it
before you can paint it. Since the line-x stuff is much like paint in
application, I think it would work. First seal in the steel, then seal out
the humidity.

My plan (looong term here folks) would be to get the door frames separated
from the skins and have them galvied as well, then sprayed with the rubber.
This would add some weight to cut down on noise created by the panels
vibrating. Of course, the spray on stuff is expensive, but done on a panel
by panel basis, not giving them the whole truck, and doing the prep work
myself, it might turn out to be a decent alternative to making an interior
and insulating everything.

J-L

--__--__--

Message: 32
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Jeep engines(was:Fixing up a Land Rover)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 16:57:42 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Introduction depended on the vehicle - Cherokees got them
> sooner than the Wranglers.  So I guess there were Wranglers
> in the late 80's still with 258's.
>
Yes, that is true. Friend of mine has a 1989 YJ wrangler with a 4.2L six in
it. He says the worst decision he ever took was to buy a jeep from a young
kid. I am currently trying to get him to prove his insanity by purchasing an
88, on the basis that he needs an off-roader to go along with the "trailer
queen".

J-L

--__--__--

Message: 33
From: "Rich Williams II" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] spare tire carriers and tow plates
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 15:44:10 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

As I progress through my restoration I've discovered that I need to replace
both the original tow plate assembly and the spare tire carrier that goes on
the rear door.  Not to be a fanatic purist (I'm far from it) but in these
two situations I want period-looking items on the truck.

These things from RN are big bucks.  The spare wheel carrier retails for
about $110 plus the 7 nuts that are rquired.  The tow plate assembly can run
upwards of $200.

SOOOoooooooo........

If these were made available at a significantly reduced price, would there
be any interest out there among Series owners?  I am going to have 2 sets
made and I'm thinking of producing a small bulk run to make them available
to other LROs.  I'll know more about the cost once I know what kind of
interest there may be out there - so please chime in if you are even
remotely interested.

Thanks,

Rich Williams
'60 Series II 109 sw

--__--__--

Message: 34
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Mole grips
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 00:23:00 +0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I think that's one for the magazine Frank.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
--author unknown

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 35
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] spare tire carriers and tow plates
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 15:52:41 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I've got a set of spare tire door mount hardware sitting around that I won't 
ever use.  Its even painted.  Probably a bunch of other people with this 
hardware laying around.  Wouldn't go crazy and have it manufactured.  If you 
want to trade for it, let me know.  As far as the tow plate, have one that 
is slightly tweaked that I'll give you.  A little heat and it should be 
fine.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

>From: "Rich Williams II" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: <[email-masked]>
>Subject: [lro] spare tire carriers and tow plates
>Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 15:44:10 -0700
>
>
>As I progress through my restoration I've discovered that I need to replace
>both the original tow plate assembly and the spare tire carrier that goes 
>on
>the rear door.  Not to be a fanatic purist (I'm far from it) but in these
>two situations I want period-looking items on the truck.
>
>These things from RN are big bucks.  The spare wheel carrier retails for
>about $110 plus the 7 nuts that are rquired.  The tow plate assembly can 
>run
>upwards of $200.
>
>SOOOoooooooo........
>
>If these were made available at a significantly reduced price, would there
>be any interest out there among Series owners?  I am going to have 2 sets
>made and I'm thinking of producing a small bulk run to make them available
>to other LROs.  I'll know more about the cost once I know what kind of
>interest there may be out there - so please chime in if you are even
>remotely interested.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Rich Williams
>'60 Series II 109 sw
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 36
From: "Rich & Lori Williams" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] spare tire carriers and tow plates
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 19:32:11 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Wouldn't go crazy and have it manufactured.

10-4 on that.

I have a client who basically offered to do it as it's right in his line of
work.

Rich

--__--__--

Message: 37
From: "Mark  Love" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Quick Fix for Swivel Ball Leak. . .
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 23:29:29 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Scott, just did the quick swivel ball seal replacement this weekend. Took about 30 min., i didn't
even take the front wheel off. seems ok so far. Mark Love

--__--__--

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