Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #100 - 28 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 03:02:31 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: gearing question (Hope Peter)
   2. Re: gearing question (Hope Peter)
   3. Re: Whistle while you work... (Keith Tanner)
   4. Fixing up a Land Rover (Mark Pilkington)
   5. Re: Fixing up a Land Rover (Jeff Bieler)
   6. Re: Fixing up a Land Rover (Bryan Hoult)
   7. Re: Fixing up a Land Rover (Bill Fishel)
   8. Re: Fixing up a Land Rover (RON WARD)
   9. Re: Fixing up a Land Rover (Mark Pilkington)
  10. Re: Fixing up a Land Rover (Mark Pilkington)
  11. Re: Fixing up a Land Rover (RON WARD)
  12. Re: Fixing up a Land Rover (Bill Adams)
  13. source for swivel ball grease? (george kase)
  14. Re: source for swivel ball grease? (Rich Williams II)
  15. Re: source for swivel ball grease? (William J. Rice)
  16. Re: Fixing up a Land Rover (Mark Pilkington)
  17. Re: Fixing up a Land Rover (David Scheidt)
  18. speaking of removing transmissions... ([email-masked])
  19. Re: Space Heaters? (David G. Russell)
  20. Unimog (Kirk Hillman)
  21. Re: Unimog ([email-masked])
  22. Re: Unimog (David and Cindi Walker)
  23. Generator's in, and on we go... (girasoli)
  24. Re: Space Heaters? (Jim Hall)
  25. Re: Space Heaters? (Peter Ogilvie)
  26. Re: Space Heaters? (Jim Hall)
  27. Re: Fixing up a Land Rover (Paul Oxley)
  28. Oh good, another fun noise. (Keith Tanner)

--__--__--

Message: 1
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] gearing question
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 08:20:02 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>  So in 4th gear it's 1:1 and with OD engaged it's 1:1.3 right?
 
> Not quite.  In high range, the transfer box changes the ratio (1.148:1)

So in Hi range with OD engaged it would be 1.148:1.3?

Oh and someone mentioned that the fairy OD isn't 1.3 but 1.2something.  

Pete

--__--__--

Message: 2
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] gearing question
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 08:29:38 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Not quite.  In high range, the transfer box changes the ratio (1.148:1)

Thanks Nate, that did it
70.9 MPH with OD @ 3000rpm  and 54.5 without the OD.

--__--__--

Message: 3
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 09:55:05 -0600
To: "lro-koan.team.net" <[email-masked]>
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Whistle while you work...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

A followup -
I pulled the whistling Solex off Basil last night and replaced the gasket 
on the packing block. No more whistle! Thanks, folks.

Keith

--__--__--

Message: 4
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 10:34:48 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Fixing up a Land Rover
Reply-To: [email-masked]

As I metioned last week, I got our 67 Land Rover Series IIa back from where the
350 V8 was being shoehorned in. It runs and drives and needs a lot of TLC. My
Wife and I have just spent four days from dawn to dusk removing a lot of parts
in preparation for painting it. We took off the following, fenders, bonnet,
doors (top and bottom) rear tailgate and rear full safari door, seat base
covers, front air vents, front valance, windshield, sill covers, hardtop and
even the top skin of the safari top. All the trim and air scoops in the top and
all the windows are out.  All the window gutters are out.  We then took it and
had a spray on bed liner Line-X sprayed into the bed and the footwels and the
insides of the doors.  Very strong, bridges gaps and wear resistant. Then we
loaded a trailer and two pick-ups and drove the  whole lot to the paint shop.
There are 13 big pieces and the body itself.  The body is still fully drivable.
The paint shop looked like the scene of a crash after we had unloaded it all.
My wife is a bit strange because she likes doing this stuff.  She was drilling
rivets and unbolting parts and putting them in small bags with labels which
will make it so much easier to reassemble.  It will be away for 5 days and she
cannot wait to get it back and put it together. The Line-X came out great. I
had a lot of holes in the tub from roll cages etc etc. They put metal tape over
them and blow the stuff on at 180 degrees and 150 psi. It sets in 6 seconds and
is rock hard. The bed looks new, the doors are solid and substantial now. The
footwells are wearproof and the interior can be hosed out. My wife organised
the Line-X and told them where to spray and was more exited than me to see the
finished product. We then took it straight to the paint shop and left it there
after days of stripping and sanding.  We then went out and had a steak dinner
with a feeling of great acomplishment. Niether of us have any fingerprits from
all the sanding. She cannot wait to get it back all yellow.  The color is the
Solar Yellow of the new Nissan Pathfinder.  It should look rather good.
Kind regards,
Mark Pilkington

--__--__--

Message: 5
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 10:55:19 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] Fixing up a Land Rover
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Did you take pictures of the before, during, and the eventual after work?

Jeff

on 9/26/01 10:34 AM, Mark Pilkington at [email-masked] wrote:

> 
> As I metioned last week, I got our 67 Land Rover Series IIa back from where
> the
> 350 V8 was being shoehorned in. It runs and drives and needs a lot of TLC. My
> Wife and I have just spent four days from dawn to dusk removing a lot of parts
> in preparation for painting it. We took off the following, fenders, bonnet,
> doors (top and bottom) rear tailgate and rear full safari door, seat base
> covers, front air vents, front valance, windshield, sill covers, hardtop and
> even the top skin of the safari top. All the trim and air scoops in the top
> and
> all the windows are out.  All the window gutters are out.  We then took it and
> had a spray on bed liner Line-X sprayed into the bed and the footwels and the
> insides of the doors.  Very strong, bridges gaps and wear resistant. Then we
> loaded a trailer and two pick-ups and drove the  whole lot to the paint shop.
> There are 13 big pieces and the body itself.  The body is still fully
> drivable.
> The paint shop looked like the scene of a crash after we had unloaded it all.
> My wife is a bit strange because she likes doing this stuff.  She was drilling
> rivets and unbolting parts and putting them in small bags with labels which
> will make it so much easier to reassemble.  It will be away for 5 days and she
> cannot wait to get it back and put it together. The Line-X came out great. I
> had a lot of holes in the tub from roll cages etc etc. They put metal tape
> over
> them and blow the stuff on at 180 degrees and 150 psi. It sets in 6 seconds
> and
> is rock hard. The bed looks new, the doors are solid and substantial now. The
> footwells are wearproof and the interior can be hosed out. My wife organised
> the Line-X and told them where to spray and was more exited than me to see the
> finished product. We then took it straight to the paint shop and left it there
> after days of stripping and sanding.  We then went out and had a steak dinner
> with a feeling of great acomplishment. Niether of us have any fingerprits from
> all the sanding. She cannot wait to get it back all yellow.  The color is the
> Solar Yellow of the new Nissan Pathfinder.  It should look rather good.
> Kind regards,
> Mark Pilkington
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 6
Date: 26 Sep 2001 10:55:40 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Fixing up a Land Rover
Reply-To: [email-masked]

There's a steak dinner waiting for you anytime you want to come up and take on the 109!

Bryan

On Wed, 26 September 2001, Mark Pilkington wrote:

> 
> 
> As I metioned last week, I got our 67 Land Rover Series IIa back from where the
> 350 V8 was being shoehorned in. It runs and drives and needs a lot of TLC. My
> Wife and I have just spent four days from dawn to dusk removing a lot of parts
> in preparation for painting it. We took off the following, fenders, bonnet,
> doors (top and bottom) rear tailgate and rear full safari door, seat base
> covers, front air vents, front valance, windshield, sill covers, hardtop and
> even the top skin of the safari top. All the trim and air scoops in the top and
> all the windows are out.  All the window gutters are out.  We then took it and
> had a spray on bed liner Line-X sprayed into the bed and the footwels and the
> insides of the doors.  Very strong, bridges gaps and wear resistant. Then we
> loaded a trailer and two pick-ups and drove the  whole lot to the paint shop.
> There are 13 big pieces and the body itself.  The body is still fully drivable.
> The paint shop looked like the scene of a crash after we had unloaded it all.
> My wife is a bit strange because she likes doing this stuff.  She was drilling
> rivets and unbolting parts and putting them in small bags with labels which
> will make it so much easier to reassemble.  It will be away for 5 days and she
> cannot wait to get it back and put it together. The Line-X came out great. I
> had a lot of holes in the tub from roll cages etc etc. They put metal tape over
> them and blow the stuff on at 180 degrees and 150 psi. It sets in 6 seconds and
> is rock hard. The bed looks new, the doors are solid and substantial now. The
> footwells are wearproof and the interior can be hosed out. My wife organised
> the Line-X and told them where to spray and was more exited than me to see the
> finished product. We then took it straight to the paint shop and left it there
> after days of stripping and sanding.  We then went out and had a steak dinner
> with a feeling of great acomplishment. Niether of us have any fingerprits from
> all the sanding. She cannot wait to get it back all yellow.  The color is the
> Solar Yellow of the new Nissan Pathfinder.  It should look rather good.
> Kind regards,
> Mark Pilkington
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

--__--__--

Message: 7
From: "Bill Fishel" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Fixing up a Land Rover
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 14:03:44 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Does your wife have a sister?
Bill Fishel

----------
> From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: [lro] Fixing up a Land Rover
> Date: Wednesday, September 26, 2001 1:34 PM
> 
> 
> As I metioned last week, I got our 67 Land Rover Series IIa back from where the
> 350 V8 was being shoehorned in. It runs and drives and needs a lot of TLC. My
> Wife and I have just spent four days from dawn to dusk removing a lot of parts
> in preparation for painting it. We took off the following, fenders, bonnet,
> doors (top and bottom) rear tailgate and rear full safari door, seat base
> covers, front air vents, front valance, windshield, sill covers, hardtop and
> even the top skin of the safari top. All the trim and air scoops in the top and
> all the windows are out.  All the window gutters are out.  We then took it and
> had a spray on bed liner Line-X sprayed into the bed and the footwels and the
> insides of the doors.  Very strong, bridges gaps and wear resistant. Then we
> loaded a trailer and two pick-ups and drove the  whole lot to the paint shop.
> There are 13 big pieces and the body itself.  The body is still fully drivable.
> The paint shop looked like the scene of a crash after we had unloaded it all.
> My wife is a bit strange because she likes doing this stuff.  She was drilling
> rivets and unbolting parts and putting them in small bags with labels which
> will make it so much easier to reassemble.  It will be away for 5 days and she
> cannot wait to get it back and put it together. The Line-X came out great. I
> had a lot of holes in the tub from roll cages etc etc. They put metal tape over
> them and blow the stuff on at 180 degrees and 150 psi. It sets in 6 seconds and
> is rock hard. The bed looks new, the doors are solid and substantial now. The
> footwells are wearproof and the interior can be hosed out. My wife organised
> the Line-X and told them where to spray and was more exited than me to see the
> finished product. We then took it straight to the paint shop and left it there
> after days of stripping and sanding.  We then went out and had a steak dinner
> with a feeling of great acomplishment. Niether of us have any fingerprits from
> all the sanding. She cannot wait to get it back all yellow.  The color is the
> Solar Yellow of the new Nissan Pathfinder.  It should look rather good.
> Kind regards,
> Mark Pilkington
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 8
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 14:01:56 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Fixing up a Land Rover
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Solar Yellow?  Anyhow, how much weight does the spray on liner add to the body?  I've been thinking about doing this to a Discovery myself, but with all the skid plates, tall tires and such the weight is starting to become an issue.

Ron Ward

>>> [email-masked] 09/26/01 01:34PM >>>

As I metioned last week, I got our 67 Land Rover Series IIa back from where the
350 V8 was being shoehorned in. It runs and drives and needs a lot of TLC. My
Wife and I have just spent four days from dawn to dusk removing a lot of parts
in preparation for painting it. We took off the following, fenders, bonnet,
doors (top and bottom) rear tailgate and rear full safari door, seat base
covers, front air vents, front valance, windshield, sill covers, hardtop and
even the top skin of the safari top. All the trim and air scoops in the top and
all the windows are out.  All the window gutters are out.  We then took it and
had a spray on bed liner Line-X sprayed into the bed and the footwels and the
insides of the doors.  Very strong, bridges gaps and wear resistant. Then we
loaded a trailer and two pick-ups and drove the  whole lot to the paint shop.
There are 13 big pieces and the body itself.  The body is still fully drivable.
The paint shop looked like the scene of a crash after we had unloaded it all.
My wife is a bit strange because she likes doing this stuff.  She was drilling
rivets and unbolting parts and putting them in small bags with labels which
will make it so much easier to reassemble.  It will be away for 5 days and she
cannot wait to get it back and put it together. The Line-X came out great. I
had a lot of holes in the tub from roll cages etc etc. They put metal tape over
them and blow the stuff on at 180 degrees and 150 psi. It sets in 6 seconds and
is rock hard. The bed looks new, the doors are solid and substantial now. The
footwells are wearproof and the interior can be hosed out. My wife organised
the Line-X and told them where to spray and was more exited than me to see the
finished product. We then took it straight to the paint shop and left it there
after days of stripping and sanding.  We then went out and had a steak dinner
with a feeling of great acomplishment. Niether of us have any fingerprits from
all the sanding. She cannot wait to get it back all yellow.  The color is the
Solar Yellow of the new Nissan Pathfinder.  It should look rather good.
Kind regards,
Mark Pilkington
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked] 
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 9
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 11:29:54 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Fixing up a Land Rover
Reply-To: [email-masked]

To answer all the questions in one go, My wife has no sister, which is a pity
because I have been asked that numerous times.   She is also a pilot.  Thank you
for the amusing offers of taking on your rovers, but we are knackered after
doing this one and really don't want to do more unless we can keep them
afterwards:-)
We have been taking pictures of it since it was dragged out of the Northern
California woods after 16 years, up until now. They are not online, but are
digital and I would be happy to e-mail a few to anyone interested after it is
finished.  We totally prepped it for paint. bondo'ed the little dings and sanded
for days. Good panels were sanded finer and finer while awkward parts were
stripped and hosed off.  The bonnet was stripped inside and out as was the rear
door and tailgate (optional because it has a hard and soft top) Doors were not
stripped.  Little parts were all stripped. Hardtop was stripped of everything
and then sanded.  It will have paint inside, but it also has a headliner.  We
are not painting over the Line-X.  It is semi gloss rubberised black and looks
damn good as it is.  The paint portion is costing $802. This is amazingly cheap.
The quality is excellent. This is the third Land Rover these guys have painted
for me.  They have a 6 year warranty and use polyeurathanes and it comes out
really well.  They are doing the dash and everything under the fenders, inside
the hardtop and under the hood. 13 pieces all hanging from wires in the booth.
They have to do no prepping at all. We did it all.
All the work was done in the blazing sun outside in the driveway with a lot of
wet and dry and a running hose that was on us more than on the parts.  We do not
have a huge set of tools and a shop to do it in.  If we did, we would have a
Defender! :-)  This is not a show quality restoration, and it is so far from
original, that we are doing what ever we want with it.  It has been lifted and
has large tires on it with defender type wheel arch flares all round.  It has a
nasty stance and looks good.  The licence plate I have applied for is V8 LANDY
which will cause amusement all round.
Kind regards,
Mark

David and Cindi Walker wrote:

> I am curious, how much is the painting portion costing? Are the panels that
> you prepped ready for the paint shop?
>
> Do you have any pictures (online)?
>
> Do I understand that you are also painting over the Line-X?
>
> Cheers,
>
> David
>
> [email-masked]
> end of message
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
> To: <[email-masked]>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2001 10:34 AM
> Subject: [lro] Fixing up a Land Rover
>
> >
> > As I metioned last week, I got our 67 Land Rover Series IIa back from
> where the
> > 350 V8 was being shoehorned in. It runs and drives and needs a lot of TLC.
> My
> > Wife and I have just spent four days from dawn to dusk removing a lot of
> parts
> > in preparation for painting it. We took off the following, fenders,
> bonnet,
> > doors (top and bottom) rear tailgate and rear full safari door, seat base
> > covers, front air vents, front valance, windshield, sill covers, hardtop
> and
> > even the top skin of the safari top. All the trim and air scoops in the
> top and
> > all the windows are out.  All the window gutters are out.  We then took it
> and
> > had a spray on bed liner Line-X sprayed into the bed and the footwels and
> the
> > insides of the doors.  Very strong, bridges gaps and wear resistant. Then
> we
> > loaded a trailer and two pick-ups and drove the  whole lot to the paint
> shop.
> > There are 13 big pieces and the body itself.  The body is still fully
> drivable.
> > The paint shop looked like the scene of a crash after we had unloaded it
> all.
> > My wife is a bit strange because she likes doing this stuff.  She was
> drilling
> > rivets and unbolting parts and putting them in small bags with labels
> which
> > will make it so much easier to reassemble.  It will be away for 5 days and
> she
> > cannot wait to get it back and put it together. The Line-X came out great.
> I
> > had a lot of holes in the tub from roll cages etc etc. They put metal tape
> over
> > them and blow the stuff on at 180 degrees and 150 psi. It sets in 6
> seconds and
> > is rock hard. The bed looks new, the doors are solid and substantial now.
> The
> > footwells are wearproof and the interior can be hosed out. My wife
> organised
> > the Line-X and told them where to spray and was more exited than me to see
> the
> > finished product. We then took it straight to the paint shop and left it
> there
> > after days of stripping and sanding.  We then went out and had a steak
> dinner
> > with a feeling of great acomplishment. Niether of us have any fingerprits
> from
> > all the sanding. She cannot wait to get it back all yellow.  The color is
> the
> > Solar Yellow of the new Nissan Pathfinder.  It should look rather good.
> > Kind regards,
> > Mark Pilkington
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 10
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 11:43:15 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Fixing up a Land Rover
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I'd say that the small bed of a Series and the doors and footwell will have added about 15lbs. The 5.7 liter engine more than takes care of this for me though.  It is not that heavy, but is a great thing to do.  Make sure you really
really want it before you have it done.  It is a one way trip.  What we had done cost $550.  And there was a lot of masking and they said they would never do it again.  The masking tape they use has a steel wire in it, so it is pulled
off and cuts like cheese leaving a crisp edge.  This only works 5 miniutes after it is sprayed.
Mark

RON WARD wrote:

> Solar Yellow?  Anyhow, how much weight does the spray on liner add to the body?  I've been thinking about doing this to a Discovery myself, but with all the skid plates, tall tires and such the weight is starting to become an issue.
>
> Ron Ward
>
> >>> [email-masked] 09/26/01 01:34PM >>>
>
> As I metioned last week, I got our 67 Land Rover Series IIa back from where the
> 350 V8 was being shoehorned in. It runs and drives and needs a lot of TLC. My
> Wife and I have just spent four days from dawn to dusk removing a lot of parts
> in preparation for painting it. We took off the following, fenders, bonnet,
> doors (top and bottom) rear tailgate and rear full safari door, seat base
> covers, front air vents, front valance, windshield, sill covers, hardtop and
> even the top skin of the safari top. All the trim and air scoops in the top and
> all the windows are out.  All the window gutters are out.  We then took it and
> had a spray on bed liner Line-X sprayed into the bed and the footwels and the
> insides of the doors.  Very strong, bridges gaps and wear resistant. Then we
> loaded a trailer and two pick-ups and drove the  whole lot to the paint shop.
> There are 13 big pieces and the body itself.  The body is still fully drivable.
> The paint shop looked like the scene of a crash after we had unloaded it all.
> My wife is a bit strange because she likes doing this stuff.  She was drilling
> rivets and unbolting parts and putting them in small bags with labels which
> will make it so much easier to reassemble.  It will be away for 5 days and she
> cannot wait to get it back and put it together. The Line-X came out great. I
> had a lot of holes in the tub from roll cages etc etc. They put metal tape over
> them and blow the stuff on at 180 degrees and 150 psi. It sets in 6 seconds and
> is rock hard. The bed looks new, the doors are solid and substantial now. The
> footwells are wearproof and the interior can be hosed out. My wife organised
> the Line-X and told them where to spray and was more exited than me to see the
> finished product. We then took it straight to the paint shop and left it there
> after days of stripping and sanding.  We then went out and had a steak dinner
> with a feeling of great acomplishment. Niether of us have any fingerprits from
> all the sanding. She cannot wait to get it back all yellow.  The color is the
> Solar Yellow of the new Nissan Pathfinder.  It should look rather good.
> Kind regards,
> Mark Pilkington
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 11
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 14:52:51 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Fixing up a Land Rover
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I can't get over the 5.7 ltr V8 engine.  I can't wait to see this thing!!!

>>> [email-masked] 09/26/01 02:43PM >>>

I'd say that the small bed of a Series and the doors and footwell will have added about 15lbs. The 5.7 liter engine more than takes care of this for me though.  It is not that heavy, but is a great thing to do.  Make sure you really
really want it before you have it done.  It is a one way trip.  What we had done cost $550.  And there was a lot of masking and they said they would never do it again.  The masking tape they use has a steel wire in it, so it is pulled
off and cuts like cheese leaving a crisp edge.  This only works 5 miniutes after it is sprayed.
Mark

RON WARD wrote:

> Solar Yellow?  Anyhow, how much weight does the spray on liner add to the body?  I've been thinking about doing this to a Discovery myself, but with all the skid plates, tall tires and such the weight is starting to become an issue.
>
> Ron Ward
>
> >>> [email-masked] 09/26/01 01:34PM >>>
>
> As I metioned last week, I got our 67 Land Rover Series IIa back from where the
> 350 V8 was being shoehorned in. It runs and drives and needs a lot of TLC. My
> Wife and I have just spent four days from dawn to dusk removing a lot of parts
> in preparation for painting it. We took off the following, fenders, bonnet,
> doors (top and bottom) rear tailgate and rear full safari door, seat base
> covers, front air vents, front valance, windshield, sill covers, hardtop and
> even the top skin of the safari top. All the trim and air scoops in the top and
> all the windows are out.  All the window gutters are out.  We then took it and
> had a spray on bed liner Line-X sprayed into the bed and the footwels and the
> insides of the doors.  Very strong, bridges gaps and wear resistant. Then we
> loaded a trailer and two pick-ups and drove the  whole lot to the paint shop.
> There are 13 big pieces and the body itself.  The body is still fully drivable.
> The paint shop looked like the scene of a crash after we had unloaded it all.
> My wife is a bit strange because she likes doing this stuff.  She was drilling
> rivets and unbolting parts and putting them in small bags with labels which
> will make it so much easier to reassemble.  It will be away for 5 days and she
> cannot wait to get it back and put it together. The Line-X came out great. I
> had a lot of holes in the tub from roll cages etc etc. They put metal tape over
> them and blow the stuff on at 180 degrees and 150 psi. It sets in 6 seconds and
> is rock hard. The bed looks new, the doors are solid and substantial now. The
> footwells are wearproof and the interior can be hosed out. My wife organised
> the Line-X and told them where to spray and was more exited than me to see the
> finished product. We then took it straight to the paint shop and left it there
> after days of stripping and sanding.  We then went out and had a steak dinner
> with a feeling of great acomplishment. Niether of us have any fingerprits from
> all the sanding. She cannot wait to get it back all yellow.  The color is the
> Solar Yellow of the new Nissan Pathfinder.  It should look rather good.
> Kind regards,
> Mark Pilkington
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked] 
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro 
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked] 
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro 
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked] 
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 12
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 15:41:20 -0400
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Organization: U.S. International Broadcasting Bureau
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Fixing up a Land Rover
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Mark, Howya gonna get the footwell panels out if you need to do any
tranny work, or remove the seatbox or anything else that needs these
panels out?
-- 
Bill Adams
Motion Graphics/3D Design Director
IBB Broadcast Design Center, Washington DC
[email-masked]
202-205-9638

1966 Land Rover 2A 109SW Diesel
1981 Honda GoldWing Standard
1963 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

--__--__--

Message: 13
Date: 26 Sep 2001 15:13:23 -0500
From: george kase <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] source for swivel ball grease?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi 
can anyone tell me what to look/ask for and where?
more solid than 90 weight and less solid than regular lube gun grease?
thanks
George

--__--__--

Message: 14
From: "Rich Williams II" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] source for swivel ball grease?
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 13:24:49 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

related to this - anyone tried mixing the 2 for swivel balls - I think I
overheard someone talking about this at a local field meet this summer

----- Original Message -----
From: george kase <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2001 1:13 PM
Subject: [lro] source for swivel ball grease?

Hi
can anyone tell me what to look/ask for and where?
more solid than 90 weight and less solid than regular lube gun grease?
thanks
George
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 15
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 13:45:34 -0600
Subject: Re: [lro] source for swivel ball grease?
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Try non-reduced fat buttermilk.  I don't think the fat-free version would
provide sufficient lubrication.

bill

PS--just kidding.  You must be new to the list, b/c this topic is so
fiercly debated it's pretty much an inside joke on the list.  I think
Rover dealers have a swivel grease compound for the rangies that's a lot
more liquid-ey than normal grease but a lot thicker than gear oil.  Or
you could always replace the swivel ball seals . . .

bill

On 26 Sep 2001 15:13:23 -0500 george kase <[email-masked]> writes:
> 
> Hi 
> can anyone tell me what to look/ask for and where?
> more solid than 90 weight and less solid than regular lube gun 
> grease?
> thanks
> George
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 16
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 13:31:25 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Fixing up a Land Rover
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I cunningly had them put a wire under the seams and pull it so there is
a gap.  Those parts are removable if necessary. But it's a Land Rover,
why would I ever have to take them out to work on it??????????????
Mark

Bill Adams wrote:

> Mark, Howya gonna get the footwell panels out if you need to do any
> tranny work, or remove the seatbox or anything else that needs these
> panels out?
> --
> Bill Adams
> Motion Graphics/3D Design Director
> IBB Broadcast Design Center, Washington DC
> [email-masked]
> 202-205-9638
>
> 1966 Land Rover 2A 109SW Diesel
> 1981 Honda GoldWing Standard
> 1963 Pearson Vanguard
> "Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 17
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 16:33:16 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Fixing up a Land Rover
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Wed, 26 Sep 2001, Mark Pilkington wrote:

:
:I cunningly had them put a wire under the seams and pull it so there is
:a gap.  Those parts are removable if necessary. But it's a Land Rover,
:why would I ever have to take them out to work on it??????????????
:Mark
:

The normal method of yanking the tranny is through the floor.

-- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

--__--__--

Message: 18
From: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 18:08:19 EDT
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] speaking of removing transmissions...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

reminds me of a great trail fix i saw this past weekend up in VT.  88" comes 
down hard on a rock (on the frame) and splits the corner of the frame rail 
right down on the side for a distance of about 18", through the area that the 
transmission crossmember attaches.  being a fairly thin frame, the other side 
of the crossmember decides to break off at the frame, and the transmission 
falls to the limit that the engine mounts will alow.  needing a fix, being in 
the middle of a failry challenging trail in the relative middle of nowhere, 
the center seat bottom is removed, the access panel thrown in back, and the 
wheel brace is placed across the opening like an X.  a ratchet strap is 
looped under the transmission and over the wheel brace, and tightened, 
pulling the transmission back into position.  drive out of trail, park in 
camping area, drive home 350+ miles the next day.  fix gets an A+ from me.

adam

--__--__--

Message: 19
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 19:23:40 -0400
From: "David G. Russell" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Space Heaters?
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

My experience with the propane tank type is not good.

I have a 34' x 34' poorly insulated barn and I live in southern NH. 
Temps were probably in the 20's and 30's when I used it.

I cordoned off a 10' x 15' section of the barn with a couple mil thick
painters plastic and it didn't help. Only if I positioned myself
directly in front of the heater was it of any value and then only at
waist level and up. I had the additional problem of apparent valve
freeze up which led to the whole valve assembly catching fire--twice.
Perhaps I'm lucky to still be here?

I'm hoping to try the kerosene fueled jet-engine style this winter.

HTH.

-David

> 
> Message: 16
> Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 13:38:37 -0400
> From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
> To: <[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [lro] Space Heaters?
> Reply-To: [email-masked]
> 
> Get the propane tank (thing gas outdoor grill) unit that sits atop the
> tank and burns the fuel and radiates the heat. 
> 
> >>> [email-masked] 09/25/01 01:32PM >>>
> 
> Since winter is on it's way, I'm thinking of being able to work on the
> Rover in my detached garage and wanted to get people's opinions on
> space heaters.

--__--__--

Message: 20
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 18:24:07 -0600
Subject: [lro] Unimog
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Would someone out there that knows Unimogs email me off list and help me out
regarding Unimog locker options?

Thanks
Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 21
From: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 20:38:27 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] Unimog
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 9/26/01 8:37:02 PM, [email-masked] writes:

>Unimog locker options?

uhhhhhhhh... dont they have hydraulic diff lockers from and rear from the 
factory??

adam

--__--__--

Message: 22
From: "David and Cindi Walker" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Unimog
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 17:37:10 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I own a 404 - although it depends what you want to know! They are
mechanical.

Contact me off list.

Cheers,

David

[email-masked]
end of message
----- Original Message -----
From: Kirk Hillman <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2001 5:24 PM
Subject: [lro] Unimog

>
> Would someone out there that knows Unimogs email me off list and help me
out
> regarding Unimog locker options?
>
> Thanks
> Kirk
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 23
From: "girasoli" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 23:05:05 -0400
Subject: [lro] Generator's in, and on we go...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Well, the generator is back from the shop, and after being installed, we're
back to charging status in the '67. giddyup! Thanks to all of you for your
advice.

Time to tackle the next problem: no dash lights. It's the black knob in the
upper right hand corner of the dash, correct? When pulled out, there's nothing
to show for it. Where can I start? How do I get at the dash bulbs? I take it
there are two, one behind the speedo and the gas/ammeter gauge. Is there a
fuse for the dash lights?

Thanks for any help you can give. cheers!
-brian, '67 Series IIa 88"

--__--__--

Message: 24
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 21:33:31 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Space Heaters?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I have one of these, 55000 BTU I think, and an uninsulated garage, 
20 x 24 with open rafters. The heater works great, and I will have to
turn it off  after a while as I will get too hot. BTW, they work on
diesel just as well.

David G. Russell wrote:

> 
> I'm hoping to try the kerosene fueled jet-engine style this winter.
> 

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 25
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Space Heaters?
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 18:41:57 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Just can't sit by and not comment on your wasteful ways.  My garage is 
unheated.  It stays warm all winter despite the fact I don't have a heater, 
however.  Its ingeniusly designed to take advantage of solar energy.  You 
people need to take advantage of proper location and quit polluting the 
atmosphere and wasting fossil fuels.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

>From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: [email-masked]
>Subject: Re: [lro] Space Heaters?
>Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 21:33:31 -0600
>
>
>I have one of these, 55000 BTU I think, and an uninsulated garage,
>20 x 24 with open rafters. The heater works great, and I will have to
>turn it off  after a while as I will get too hot. BTW, they work on
>diesel just as well.
>
>David G. Russell wrote:
> >
>
> >
> > I'm hoping to try the kerosene fueled jet-engine style this winter.
> >
>
>--
>Jim Hall
>1966 88" Elephant Chaser
>http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
>"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
>with Jim." Mitch Stockdale
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 26
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 22:54:46 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Space Heaters?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

If we were worried about wasting fossil fuels, we wouldn't be driving
rovers. If it would only burn 90 wt, then I could make a drip pan and
collection tank under the rover and heat the garage nicely on everything
that leaked out. A garage like yours would be nice too, but the drive
and boat ride would make working on the rover a little impractical.

Peter Ogilvie wrote:
> 
> Just can't sit by and not comment on your wasteful ways.  My garage is
> unheated.  It stays warm all winter despite the fact I don't have a heater,
> however.  Its ingeniusly designed to take advantage of solar energy.  You
> people need to take advantage of proper location and quit polluting the
> atmosphere and wasting fossil fuels.

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 27
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 07:48:02 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
Organization: AfricanAdrenalin Safaris
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Fixing up a Land Rover
Reply-To: [email-masked]

David Scheidt wrote:
 
> The normal method of yanking the tranny is through the floor.

On my s3 88" I'm in the process of cutting out the cross member under
the g/box and making it into a removable one for future work. It's a
long-term fix (a bit more work now, but will save a whole bunch of work
over the years).
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

--__--__--

Message: 28
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 00:05:07 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Oh good, another fun noise.
Reply-To: [email-masked]

or: what does a dying diff sound like?

Symptoms: A juddering (similar to a bad u-joint) from the rear when 
accelerating from a stop around a corner. This is most noticeable when 
turning left, and it does not happen when not under power, going straight 
or at any significant speed. It's mostly tight, slow corners. Also, when 
coming to a stop, I'll sometimes hear a "chunk chunk chunk" from the rear.

Ideas? All the u-joints in the driveshafts are new, but I haven't checked 
the rear ones since installation. I'll sometimes get a chirping from the 
inside tire on a tight turn and I don't think I've ever had this happen on 
loose surfaces. It's almost as if the diff is locked or not as open as it 
should be. The fluid came out clean of metal chunks at the last change.

Keith, rebuilding a Rover one component at a time
------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

--__--__--

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