Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #99 - 24 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 03:05:33 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Lucas Ammeter (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
   2. Re: Re: Cornbinder T-case... (Bill Adams)
   3. Iron in Rovers... (Bill Adams)
   4. Re: Whistle while you work... (RON WARD)
   5. Re: Whistle while you work... (RON WARD)
   6. Re: Whistle while you work... (Jeff Bieler)
   7. Re: Whistle while you work... (Jeff Bieler)
   8. Re: Whistle while you work... (RON WARD)
   9. RE: Sightings and Freelanders (Tackley, John)
  10. Re: Whistle while you work... (Keith Tanner)
  11. Re: ujoint alternate part# ??? (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  12. Re: Whistle while you work... (Jeff Bieler)
  13. Re: Iron in Rovers... (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  14. e-mail recovery (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  15. Space Heaters? (Vel Natarajan)
  16. Re: Space Heaters? (RON WARD)
  17. Re: Space Heaters? (Bill Adams)
  18. Re: Widening rover steel wheel (Hope Peter)
  19. gearing question (Hope Peter)
  20. FW: Save 10% from 4wheelparts.com! (Jeff Bieler)
  21. Re: gearing question ([email-masked])
  22. Re: gearing question ([email-masked])
  23. Re: gearing question (Tim Czajka)
  24. Re: Lucas Ammeter & other thoughts on tire size-semi long (Scott Wickham)

--__--__--

Message: 1
Subject: Re: [lro] Lucas Ammeter
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 06:19:18 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

What year is your truck, Nick?

That will answer the question. If it's a later-model SIII or the like then
no, it's not really the right range for the 43-amp alternator. I'm assuming
this is the case as the older trucks had an ammeter already in the panel.

if, however, you're swinging along with the 20-amp genny then yes, it will
do nicely if you don't plan on adding large honkin' lights, an alternator
or the like.

In either case, I'd fit it in the brown lead that connects to the main
battery cable - this will then monitor the complete system drain on the
battery.

                    ajr

--__--__--

Message: 2
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 08:49:54 -0400
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Organization: U.S. International Broadcasting Bureau
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Cornbinder T-case...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Wow,4 point something or other low gears would require quite a bit of
Dremel tool grinding on the casting to get them to fit. The Tera gear
needs grinding and its a 3.15!
Tim, I'm sure that there were other trucks that used the large hole
Dana. I found it easier to buy a $50 donor T-case (which included the
e-brake, t-90 tranny and bellhousing) and transfer the guts than to
track down the exact thing.

-- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

--__--__--

Message: 3
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 08:52:35 -0400
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Organization: U.S. International Broadcasting Bureau
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Iron in Rovers...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Jean-Leon sez:
There will be more Fe in this man's rover once he is done than in three
complete 88"s...

To which I say:
There will be more horsepower in this man's rover once he is done than
in three complete 88's..
-- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

--__--__--

Message: 4
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 09:16:21 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Whistle while you work...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Keith, check the "paper" gaskets on the bottom, between the base of the Solex and the hard plastic piece and the manifold.  My 88" did the same thing until I tightened up the base mounting nuts ever so slightly.

Ron

>>> [email-masked] 09/24/01 10:51PM >>>

My newly rebuilt Solex has a cute trick. Once it's warmed up, it whistles 
or squeals. Sounds for all the world like a bad bearing or seal on a 
rotating shaft, but no. Obviously there's a leak somewhere - any hints on 
how to track it down? A visual inspection yields nothing.

Also, how do I keep the thing from dieseling briefly on shutoff? Usually 
just an extra kick after the ignition is turned off, but it's still enough 
to keep my attention. I thought the rebuild would stop this - but at least 
it's not drooling fuel all over the exhaust manifold anymore.

A side note - an "acceptable" frame is far different in Colorado than it is 
in Ontario. I think Basil would have been junked out here. Out east, the 
parts trucks have bad frames and bulkheads and good other bits. Around 
here, the mechanicals are worn out but the frames are solid. Hmm.

Keith
------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net 
------------
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked] 
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 5
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 09:18:58 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Whistle while you work...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Jeff, check the connection of the down pipe to the exhaust manifold.  I put that exhaust on there last year and ever since then I periodically tightened those nuts.  Be careful not to over-tighten for obvious reasons.  Glad the pertronix ignition worked out for you.

Ron

>>> [email-masked] 09/25/01 01:02AM >>>

Sounds like you're suffering the same Solex blues I am.  Just finished a
rebuild with a gasket kit from Wise Owl.  Carb no longer leaks like a sieve
and performance is way up.  I put in a Pertronix Ignitor which cured miss
caused by the wobble in the distributor, but I've got an exhaust leak I just
can't track down (gives a little throaty worble when I let off the gas and
decelerate).  Between the rebuild and the Pertronix, I am getting 14~16MPG
now which is a big improvement.

Every so often, without enough consistency to isolate, it diesels after I
kill the ignition.  Until I can figure it out, I let it briefly idle after I
come to a stop before I turn off the ignition.  This seems to help.  I also
put it in 4th and will gently let out the clutch if I feel it want to run
over.  

If you can get this figured out, I'd be happy!

Jeff

on 9/24/01 7:51 PM, Keith Tanner at [email-masked] wrote:

> 
> My newly rebuilt Solex has a cute trick. Once it's warmed up, it whistles
> or squeals. Sounds for all the world like a bad bearing or seal on a
> rotating shaft, but no. Obviously there's a leak somewhere - any hints on
> how to track it down? A visual inspection yields nothing.
> 
> Also, how do I keep the thing from dieseling briefly on shutoff? Usually
> just an extra kick after the ignition is turned off, but it's still enough
> to keep my attention. I thought the rebuild would stop this - but at least
> it's not drooling fuel all over the exhaust manifold anymore.
> 
> A side note - an "acceptable" frame is far different in Colorado than it is
> in Ontario. I think Basil would have been junked out here. Out east, the
> parts trucks have bad frames and bulkheads and good other bits. Around
> here, the mechanicals are worn out but the frames are solid. Hmm.
> 
> Keith
> ------------
> Keith's page de home:
> http://keith.miata.net 
> ------------
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked] 
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro 
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked] 
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 6
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 06:58:05 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] Whistle while you work...
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Thanks.  I'll look at it again.  I thought it might have been towards the
rear as the pipes were vibrating against a cross member, but that checked
out OK.

Have you made a final decision regarding a 109 or will your stable stay "as
is" for a while?

Jeff

on 9/25/01 6:18 AM, RON WARD at [email-masked] wrote:

> 
> Jeff, check the connection of the down pipe to the exhaust manifold.  I put
> that exhaust on there last year and ever since then I periodically tightened
> those nuts.  Be careful not to over-tighten for obvious reasons.  Glad the
> pertronix ignition worked out for you.
> 
> Ron
> 
>>>> [email-masked] 09/25/01 01:02AM >>>
> 
> Sounds like you're suffering the same Solex blues I am.  Just finished a
> rebuild with a gasket kit from Wise Owl.  Carb no longer leaks like a sieve
> and performance is way up.  I put in a Pertronix Ignitor which cured miss
> caused by the wobble in the distributor, but I've got an exhaust leak I just
> can't track down (gives a little throaty worble when I let off the gas and
> decelerate).  Between the rebuild and the Pertronix, I am getting 14~16MPG
> now which is a big improvement.
> 
> Every so often, without enough consistency to isolate, it diesels after I
> kill the ignition.  Until I can figure it out, I let it briefly idle after I
> come to a stop before I turn off the ignition.  This seems to help.  I also
> put it in 4th and will gently let out the clutch if I feel it want to run
> over.  
> 
> If you can get this figured out, I'd be happy!
> 
> Jeff
> 
> on 9/24/01 7:51 PM, Keith Tanner at [email-masked] wrote:
> 
>> 
>> My newly rebuilt Solex has a cute trick. Once it's warmed up, it whistles
>> or squeals. Sounds for all the world like a bad bearing or seal on a
>> rotating shaft, but no. Obviously there's a leak somewhere - any hints on
>> how to track it down? A visual inspection yields nothing.
>> 
>> Also, how do I keep the thing from dieseling briefly on shutoff? Usually
>> just an extra kick after the ignition is turned off, but it's still enough
>> to keep my attention. I thought the rebuild would stop this - but at least
>> it's not drooling fuel all over the exhaust manifold anymore.
>> 
>> A side note - an "acceptable" frame is far different in Colorado than it is
>> in Ontario. I think Basil would have been junked out here. Out east, the
>> parts trucks have bad frames and bulkheads and good other bits. Around
>> here, the mechanicals are worn out but the frames are solid. Hmm.
>> 
>> Keith
>> ------------
>> Keith's page de home:
>> http://keith.miata.net
>> ------------

--__--__--

Message: 7
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 07:01:11 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] Whistle while you work...
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Haven't done a road trip, so I don't have "highway mileage" figured out yet.
Right now, it's all local stuff and around town driving.  I am going to a
local gathering in two weeks with a bunch of guys about 200 miles away.  I
will be nice to see how a short road trip works out.

The rebuild dramatically helped cure the rich running problem I was having.
Even when totally lean, the carb leaked so much it was running rich
regardless.  The carb is in good shape.  Clean, not warped, etc.  If the
rebuild keeps it going, I am not in a hurry to dump the Solex.

The dieseling problem, however, remains.  I've been told it could be caused
be the timing being too far retarded and/or a leak in the vacuum advance.
I've checked the vacuum advance and it seems to work fine.  My engine is a
7:1 and I am running at just a little past 6 deg. BTDC.

Jeff
on 9/24/01 8:14 PM, Keith Tanner at [email-masked] wrote:

> 
> I got 16.5 mpg on a run to Moab before the rebuild, including some mild
> off-roading. Power seems much the same - and the carb used to diesel
> beforehand. The weird thing is that this "new" carb actually uses a
> throttle body and a bowl from a totally different donor, all new jets -
> there aren't a lot of things left over from the other but it acts the same
> with regard to everything but the drooling and the whistle. The one
> difference is that this new one has an economy jet. Whatever that is.
> 
> Keith
> ------------
> Keith's page de home:
> http://keith.miata.net
> ------------
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 8
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 10:06:59 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Whistle while you work...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

As is for now.  The Range Rover Classic and the Disco are enough for me at the time.  I'm even seriously thinking about selling the Rangie and getting a Ford truck (big 4x4) for everyday use.  

>>> [email-masked] 09/25/01 09:58AM >>>

Thanks.  I'll look at it again.  I thought it might have been towards the
rear as the pipes were vibrating against a cross member, but that checked
out OK.

Have you made a final decision regarding a 109 or will your stable stay "as
is" for a while?

Jeff

on 9/25/01 6:18 AM, RON WARD at [email-masked] wrote:

> 
> Jeff, check the connection of the down pipe to the exhaust manifold.  I put
> that exhaust on there last year and ever since then I periodically tightened
> those nuts.  Be careful not to over-tighten for obvious reasons.  Glad the
> pertronix ignition worked out for you.
> 
> Ron
> 
>>>> [email-masked] 09/25/01 01:02AM >>>
> 
> Sounds like you're suffering the same Solex blues I am.  Just finished a
> rebuild with a gasket kit from Wise Owl.  Carb no longer leaks like a sieve
> and performance is way up.  I put in a Pertronix Ignitor which cured miss
> caused by the wobble in the distributor, but I've got an exhaust leak I just
> can't track down (gives a little throaty worble when I let off the gas and
> decelerate).  Between the rebuild and the Pertronix, I am getting 14~16MPG
> now which is a big improvement.
> 
> Every so often, without enough consistency to isolate, it diesels after I
> kill the ignition.  Until I can figure it out, I let it briefly idle after I
> come to a stop before I turn off the ignition.  This seems to help.  I also
> put it in 4th and will gently let out the clutch if I feel it want to run
> over.  
> 
> If you can get this figured out, I'd be happy!
> 
> Jeff
> 
> on 9/24/01 7:51 PM, Keith Tanner at [email-masked] wrote:
> 
>> 
>> My newly rebuilt Solex has a cute trick. Once it's warmed up, it whistles
>> or squeals. Sounds for all the world like a bad bearing or seal on a
>> rotating shaft, but no. Obviously there's a leak somewhere - any hints on
>> how to track it down? A visual inspection yields nothing.
>> 
>> Also, how do I keep the thing from dieseling briefly on shutoff? Usually
>> just an extra kick after the ignition is turned off, but it's still enough
>> to keep my attention. I thought the rebuild would stop this - but at least
>> it's not drooling fuel all over the exhaust manifold anymore.
>> 
>> A side note - an "acceptable" frame is far different in Colorado than it is
>> in Ontario. I think Basil would have been junked out here. Out east, the
>> parts trucks have bad frames and bulkheads and good other bits. Around
>> here, the mechanicals are worn out but the frames are solid. Hmm.
>> 
>> Keith
>> ------------
>> Keith's page de home:
>> http://keith.miata.net 
>> ------------
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked] 
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 9
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Sightings and Freelanders
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 10:16:13 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Well, since its a '98 Freelander, I would venture a guess that it was
imported only temporarily and will have to leave when the time is up.
Why not just come down to the MAR and ask Al?  ;->)
Niall asked:

How is he getting one? They're not being sold until Dec. 1st.

--__--__--

Message: 10
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 08:45:00 -0600
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Whistle while you work...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>The dieseling problem, however, remains.  I've been told it could be caused
>be the timing being too far retarded and/or a leak in the vacuum advance.
>I've checked the vacuum advance and it seems to work fine.  My engine is a
>7:1 and I am running at just a little past 6 deg. BTDC.

Mine's a 7:1 as well (probably), and the timing is set to "there, that 
seems to idle well enough", as set in the Dairy Queen parking lot. Maybe 
I'll advance it a touch. I've got a lot to learn about carb tuning - it's 
still jetted the same way it was for Ottawa, despite the fact that I'm 
about 4000' higher here and at the low point of my trips.

Keith

--__--__--

Message: 11
Subject: Re: [lro] ujoint alternate part# ???
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 01 07:32:50 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>I'm looking for an alternate part # for the front axle half shafts 
>ujoints. This would be the one inside the swivel housing. I found one on 
>TAW's site, GKN U117.

I just replaced mine near the begining of this year and GKN U117 was a 
perfect match.  My local automotive machine shop/auto parts store had 
some on the shelf.  It comes without the dust seals and no grease fitting 
per the factory original.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 12
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 08:13:52 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] Whistle while you work...
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I just did static timing.  Turned it by the hand crank until the little
needle on the flywheel at the rear of the engine was at 6 deg. BTDC.  Then,
I rotated the dizzy until my little test buzzer sounded (went back and forth
to find the sweet spot), and then advanced it just a little bit via the
knurled knob on the distributor.  I've got the idle at about 600~650RPM, but
that's my opinion.  Haven't put a tach to it.

Tuning a carb?  Aside from fiddling with the idle and mixture, I am lost.
Carb work is an art form and I can barely finger paint.

Jeff

on 9/25/01 7:45 AM, Keith Tanner at [email-masked] wrote:

> 
>> The dieseling problem, however, remains.  I've been told it could be caused
>> be the timing being too far retarded and/or a leak in the vacuum advance.
>> I've checked the vacuum advance and it seems to work fine.  My engine is a
>> 7:1 and I am running at just a little past 6 deg. BTDC.
> 
> Mine's a 7:1 as well (probably), and the timing is set to "there, that
> seems to idle well enough", as set in the Dairy Queen parking lot. Maybe
> I'll advance it a touch. I've got a lot to learn about carb tuning - it's
> still jetted the same way it was for Ottawa, despite the fact that I'm
> about 4000' higher here and at the low point of my trips.
> 
> Keith
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 13
Subject: Re: [lro] Iron in Rovers...
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 01 09:55:42 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>To which I say:
>There will be more horsepower in this man's rover once he is done than
>in three complete 88's..

I would guess The Green Rover has roughly 2.7X HP than a 8:1 2.25L LR 
engine.  But then again I spec'ed the engine for economy on regular 
petrol and not power.

With a 302 V8, cast iron bellhousing and a T-18 gearbox with cast iron 
housing and massive steel gears the weight difference before and after on 
the car scale was 300 pounds gained plus or minus 49 pounds.  Hmmm.  It 
just occured to me my first weight was with me in the vehicle and my 
"after weight" was with me AND Timm Cooper in the vehicle.  SO part of 
that 300 pounds included Timm's weight.

My Dormobile was still heavier on the rear axle weight than the front 
axle weight.

For more power at idle than the 8:1 series III engine had at peak, a 
bullet proof gearbox that provides a low range first gear with an overall 
ratio of 70:1, and power steering, I'm willing to live with an extra 300 
pounds.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 14
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 01 10:06:38 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: " mendo rec list" <[email-masked]>, "British cars list"
  <[email-masked]>, "expidition LR list"
  <[email-masked]>, "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] e-mail recovery
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I got a triffle carried away in cleaning out old files from my computer.

I deleted a folder that collected thousands of e-mail attachments over 
the past years.  Unfortunatly also in the folder was my saved e-mails, 
read e-mails and e-mail address book.

So if anyone is expecting a personal e-mail reply from me please resend 
your e-mail.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 15
From: "Vel Natarajan" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 12:32:31 -0500
Subject: [lro] Space Heaters?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Apologies if this pops up on the list twice.  I may have sent it to the
wrong LRO list address...

Since winter is on it's way, I'm thinking of being able to work on the Rover
in my detached garage and wanted to get people's opinions on space heaters.

In the Harbor Freight catalog, they have 2 kinds which I'm interested in:
One is a radiant, and the other is called a "blue flame" heater (which
apparently gives a fireplace effect).

I would think the radiant would have to have me working in front of it to
get any warmth, whereas the flame one would work well with a blower to heat
the air in the garage.

I'm thinking of getting a propane one just because I don't want to have to
run a NG line to the garage for now.

My garage is a 24'x24' and is pretty well insulated.  What kind of BTU is
sufficient?  (I'd probably just get the biggest one (14,000-30,000 BTU
model) and not have to worry about it not being powerful enough.

Any issues with the performance of the propane tank in extremely cold
weather?

Any thoughts, or other options?  Thanks...

Rgds,
Vel

--__--__--

Message: 16
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 13:38:37 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Space Heaters?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Get the propane tank (thing gas outdoor grill) unit that sits atop the tank and burns the fuel and radiates the heat. 

>>> [email-masked] 09/25/01 01:32PM >>>

Apologies if this pops up on the list twice.  I may have sent it to the
wrong LRO list address...

Since winter is on it's way, I'm thinking of being able to work on the Rover
in my detached garage and wanted to get people's opinions on space heaters.

In the Harbor Freight catalog, they have 2 kinds which I'm interested in:
One is a radiant, and the other is called a "blue flame" heater (which
apparently gives a fireplace effect).

I would think the radiant would have to have me working in front of it to
get any warmth, whereas the flame one would work well with a blower to heat
the air in the garage.

I'm thinking of getting a propane one just because I don't want to have to
run a NG line to the garage for now.

My garage is a 24'x24' and is pretty well insulated.  What kind of BTU is
sufficient?  (I'd probably just get the biggest one (14,000-30,000 BTU
model) and not have to worry about it not being powerful enough.

Any issues with the performance of the propane tank in extremely cold
weather?

Any thoughts, or other options?  Thanks...

Rgds,
Vel
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked] 
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 17
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 13:54:48 -0400
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Organization: U.S. International Broadcasting Bureau
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Space Heaters?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

You really don't need to make the garage into a tropical paradise, just
take the chill off. I think the radiant jobbie with an el cheapo fan
will do the same, and you don't have to worry about the obvious fire
hazard of a naked flame.
-- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

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Message: 18
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Widening rover steel wheel
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 10:55:44 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Okay, here goes.
> 
> I have seen some wheels on defenders that appear to be nothing more than
> stock rover inners (usually riveted to a 16" wheel outer ring) welded to
> outer wheel rims sourced  (guessing here) from yankee mobiles. Anyone out
> there have any information on this type of setup?

Just as an option
http://www.stocktonwheel.com/

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Message: 19
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 12:29:47 -0700
Subject: [lro] gearing question
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Series IIa Rover with stock tranny and axles, and a fairey OD.
So in 4th gear it's 1:1 and with OD engaged it's 1:1.3 right?
Rear axle is 4.77:1 yes?
With the OD engaged this means that for every revolution of the engine, the
drive shaft turns 1.3 times and for every 4.77 revolutions of the drive
shaft the axle spins once.
So engine RPMs * 1.3/4.77 should gives wheel RPMs
For engine RPMs I use 3000, wheel RPM works out to 817.6
I have 33" tires * pi = 103" circumferance or 8.6 feet.
If I take the Wheel RPMs * 8.6 it will give me feet per minute. 7063.6 fpm
*60 for feet per hour.  423818.6 fph
/5280 for miles per hour. 80 mph @ 3000rpm
With out the OD engaged it calculates to 61.7 mph @ 3000rpms

In practice I am getting 70mph at 3000 rpm with OD and 52 without OD.
Am I doing something wrong with the calculations, using the wrong numbers or
something or does this all look right?

I am trying to decide if I want to do an Ashcroft underdrive transfer case
mod and go to Rangie differentials and want to see what my final low first
drive will be and my highway speeds will be.
Thanks
Pete

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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 12:57:42 -0700
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: Land Rovers <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] FW: Save 10% from 4wheelparts.com!
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Just in case anyone is looking for odds and ends.  Most things they sell
won't apply, but tires, recovery gear, and accessories...

Jeff
----------
From: <4wheelparts.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 12:08:18 -0700
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Save 10% from 4wheelparts.com!

Our gain is your gain! We have too much inventory and we are ready to make
you a deal. For a limited time we are offering 10% off our entire stock.
This offer is good on everything from bumpers to winches and everything in
between. Hurry, this offer expires at the end of the month. To take
advantage of this offer go to www.4wheelparts.com
<http://www.4wheelparts.com/?s=email9>  and enter coupon code 300901X when
you check out. 

Thank you,

4 Wheel Parts
To be removed from email list, please click here
<http://www.4wheelparts.com/emailoption924.asp?email=[email-masked]>
. 

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Message: 21
From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 16:30:51 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] gearing question
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

i worked out the formula in math class last year.  its this:

RPM/Trans Ratio/TC ratio/axle ratio*tire circumference/12*60/5280= speed in 
MPH

so at 3000 revs in a stock series with 33's you would be going 89.5 mph (with 
OD).  this is not entirely true, however, as the stock (or modified, for that 
matter) 2.25 just does not have the HP to push the brick along at that speed, 
the drag increases dramactically.  four wheeler ran an article a while back 
that calculated that drag increased 3 fold just from going 40 to going 60.  
you were off on your gear calculations, too, axle ratio is 4.7, not 4.77.

adam

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Message: 22
From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 17:55:25 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] gearing question
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 9/25/2001 3:31:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

<< Series IIa Rover with stock tranny and axles, and a fairey OD.
 So in 4th gear it's 1:1 and with OD engaged it's 1:1.3 right?
 Rear axle is 4.77:1 yes? >>

Not quite.  In high range, the transfer box changes the ratio (1.148:1)

Add that in and I think you'll get the right ratios.

Nate

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Message: 23
From: "Tim Czajka" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 16:18:51 -0600
Subject: [lro] Re: gearing question
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Peter Hope wrote:
>So in 4th gear it's 1:1 and with OD engaged it's 1:1.3 right?  Rear axle is 
>4.77:1 yes?
>
Fourth gear in a Series does not provide 1:1 to the
driveshaft because the tcase has a minor reduction.
The tcase top gear is 1.148.  So with a 4.7 differential
you are looking at a final drive in fourth gear of 5.4.

I believe the bolt on overdrives are all around 0.75 so
engaged you are looking at a final drive of around 4.08.
The Ashcroft gears give a similar drop.

Here is a link to my gear calculator program which might
help - sorry I remember now you asked for the link a while
back but I forgot.

http://www16.brinkster.com/indio2/rpmtablecalc.html

Tim Czajka
1972 Series III 88

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

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Message: 24
From: "Scott Wickham" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Lucas Ammeter & other thoughts on tire size-semi long
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 18:40:58 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

), I realized that it is fun because it is a hard
trail, a trail that looks like I shouldn't make it up, and that if I had
bigger tires I would have less fun.

  I second that.  32" M/T's are plenty for most stuff.  Those Jeep guys and
their damn big tires, damn them all!  Ok, just kidding ;)  I agree the fun
is seeing how far you can get with a mostly stock truck.  We did an
inspection on a 1980 Chevy short bed pick up today.  What a nice clean,
simple, stock truck.  Had 31" tires and looked good.  This would make a nice
trail rig I thought.  A bit wide and longer than my Series but, it would
work.  K.I.S.S. works well.

Scooter

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