Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #98 - 36 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 03:03:48 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Portland/ Hood River??? (Bryan Hoult)
   2. Re: Sightings and Freelanders (RON WARD)
   3. T-case breather (Bill Adams)
   4. RE: Sightings and Freelanders (Tackley, John)
   5. Re: T-case breather (David Scheidt)
   6. RE: Sightings and Freelanders (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
   7. Environment (Holger Mootz)
   8. Re: Sightings (Rich & Lori Williams)
   9. Re: T-case breather (Hope Peter)
  10. wiring with Delco alt. help needed... (george kase)
  11. Re: wiring with Delco alt. help needed... (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  12. Re: T-case (Jeff Bieler)
  13. Re: wiring with Delco alt. help needed... (David Scheidt)
  14. Re: Sightings (Paul Oxley)
  15. Re: wiring with Delco alt. help needed... (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  16. Cornbinder T-case... (Bill Adams)
  17. Re: Cornbinder T-case... (Jean-Leon Morin)
  18. Widening rover steel wheel (Jean-Leon Morin)
  19. Re: Cornbinder T-case... (Bill Adams)
  20. Re: Cornbinder T-case... (Bryan Hoult)
  21. difference between 2a and 3 brake lines? (aaron)
  22. Re: Sightings and Freelanders (Scott Wickham)
  23. Re: Sightings and Freelanders (Scott Wickham)
  24. Re: LRO digest, Vol 1 #93 - 41 msgs (Chris)
  25. Re: Cornbinder T-case... (Jean-Leon Morin)
  26. RE: Sightings and Freelanders (N Forbes)
  27. Lucas Ammeter (Nick Danger)
  28. Re: Lucas Ammeter (David Scheidt)
  29. Re: Cornbinder T-case... (Tim Czajka)
  30. Re: Lucas Ammeter & other thoughts on tire size-semi long (Jim Hall)
  31. Whistle while you work... (Keith Tanner)
  32. Re: Whistle while you work... (Jeff Bieler)
  33. Re: Whistle while you work... (Keith Tanner)
  34. Re: Lucas Ammeter ([email-masked])
  35. ujoint alternate part# ??? (Bill Fishel)
  36. Re: Whistle while you work... (Paul Quin)

--__--__--

Message: 1
Date: 24 Sep 2001 00:01:47 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Portland/ Hood River???
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Sun, 23 September 2001, "Garrick Olsen" wrote:

> Any of you in the Portland/ Hood >River area?

I'm not from around there, but I have spent a fair amount of time rovering in the area.  You are on the edge of an offroading nirvana.  Just north of White Salmon, between Appleton and Trout Lake is a very nice area.  Lots and lots of exploring.  Northwest of there are some interesting things like lava beds, lava tubes, etc.  Between Mt. Adams and Mt. St. Helens (in the GPNF) there are numerous lakes that are great producers, the bonus is that you virtually have to have a swb truck to get to them.  Have a nice visit, then GO HOME :)

Bryan

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

--__--__--

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 07:59:02 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Sightings and Freelanders
Reply-To: [email-masked]

There's a freelander at Land Rover North Point in Alpharetta, Georgia.  It is left hand drive but has all euro gauges.  There's a sheet of paper on the steering wheel center that has miles per kilometer and the corresponding miles per hour (10kph, 25kph,40kph...).  I asked for a drive, they said no.  I asked for a ride, they said no.  It looks like a RAV-4 only lower to the ground. ;-(

Ron

>>> [email-masked] 09/21/01 04:03PM >>>

I can't believe I forgot to mention that I got to drive a Freelander several 
weeks ago. I was at the Halifax Land Rover dealership and they had it for a 
weekend to put on display. Test drives were not allowed but I was able to 
drive it around the lot. Very nice truck. I think they will sell very well 
in North America.

I just picked up a copy of LRW. On the cover is a picture of a red SIII 
owned by Casey McMullen. As I was reading the article, I noticed in one of 
the photos a Bloody Knuckles Pub grill badge. Hi Casey!!

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm 

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
--author unknown

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp 
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked] 
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 08:40:28 -0400
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Organization: U.S. International Broadcasting Bureau
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] T-case breather
Reply-To: [email-masked]

How come the Borg Warner T-19 and the Dana transfer case I'm about to
put in have breathers on them and the Brit stuff doesn't?
-- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel...about to become a monster
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

--__--__--

Message: 4
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Sightings and Freelanders
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 09:33:51 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

ROAV has arranged a Freelander for the Mid Atlantic Rally, courtesy of DAP.

Al is driving it to the rally Oct. 5-7.

JT/ric

--__--__--

Message: 5
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 08:39:56 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] T-case breather
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Mon, 24 Sep 2001, Bill Adams wrote:

:
:How come the Borg Warner T-19 and the Dana transfer case I'm about to
:put in have breathers on them and the Brit stuff doesn't?
:--

Common sense faile3d the designer of the rover tcase?

-- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

--__--__--

Message: 6
Subject: RE: [lro] Sightings and Freelanders
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 09:49:15 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>ROAV has arranged a Freelander for the Mid Atlantic Rally, courtesy of
DAP.
>
>Al is driving it to the rally Oct. 5-7.
>
>JT/ric

Great! I'll bring the wood for the pyre and the kerosene.....8*)

          aj"Just kidding....but plastic does burn well....."r

--__--__--

Message: 7
From: "Holger Mootz" <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 16:15:32 +0200
Subject: [lro] Environment
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Surfing the net for various information about alternative fuels is the US, i
found a nice website combining land rovers and biodiesel.

http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html

They say that producing a car consumes much more energy than the car
consumes during its whole life. So, the longer a car stays on the road, the
better the ecological bilance. If one now can solve the consumption/emission
problem, which means using renewable fuels in a very old car is the best you
can do for the environment. I run my land rover on biodiesel, it is even
cheaper than mineral diesel here in germany. Adding the fact that my car
wouldn't even need a road, this means minimal ecological impact. Shit, i am
an environmentalist.

Holger Mootz
Trier, Europe

VIVOS VOCO MORTVOS PLANGO FVLGVRA FRANGO

--__--__--

Message: 8
From: "Rich & Lori Williams" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Sightings
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 07:56:49 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Saw a Series III 109 RHD last night.  It was almost pink in color.  The roof
covering the front and middle seats was cut off for viewing wildlife.

Homer and Marge Simpson went to Africa I guess and were on some sort of
Safari.  The amazing thing was that the detail (even the front grill was
correct) on the truck was very good considering it was a cartoon!

Rich
'60 SII 109sw

--__--__--

Message: 9
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] T-case breather
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 08:31:33 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> How come the Borg Warner T-19 and the Dana transfer case I'm about to
> put in have breathers on them and the Brit stuff doesn't?
> -- 
> Bill Adams

Bill, which T-case are you using?  D-300 or something else?
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 10
Date: 24 Sep 2001 10:48:01 -0500
From: george kase <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] wiring with Delco alt. help needed...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hello...
I have just finished putting together my 64 IIA petrol 2.25...
I purchased the vehicle with no wiring and have placed new wiring
into the vehicle but nothing is hooked up yet. I also installed a
Delco alternator...can someone please tell me what wires go where?
I have found descriptions on the web, but they rely on people having
wiring already in place...any specific help from anyone who has done this
would be greatly appreciated!
Best regards,
George Kase
Chicago

--__--__--

Message: 11
Subject: Re: [lro] wiring with Delco alt. help needed...
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 12:05:22 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

George, it's really simple.

Main lug takes a 10 or 8-gauge wire right to the positive battery lead at
the starter switch/relay.

Red-wire terminal from the Delco either gets looped back to the main lug,
or goes to a switched terminal at the fuse block (recommended install).

White wire goes to the bulb connection that used to connect to the
regulator. Make sure the bulb is good, and the other side of the bulb
should connect to +12 volts.

The connections that used to go to the A and A1 terminals on the regulator
all get jumpered together - the rest of the leads to the regulator need to
be taped off and insulated at both ends.

                    ajr

--__--__--

Message: 12
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 09:34:37 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] T-case
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Does anyone happen to know the thread pitch of the axle breathers?  I would
like to put one the gear box and t-box and was hoping it would be 3/8NF, but
that would have made things too easy...

Jeff

on 9/21/01 10:59 AM, TeriAnn Wakeman at [email-masked] wrote:

> 
>> Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
>> 
>>> I checked the breather on the gear box (small hole in the
>>> inspection plate), but could not locate one on the t-box.
>> 
>> That's because Rover, in it's infinite wisdom, didn't install one.  If you
>> want to stay gen-you-wine, you could braze an axle vent to the top cover
>> plate; you have to stick it on mechanically somehow, as there isn't enough
>> metal in the cover for the breather's threads to get a bite.  Or, just
>> about any fitting and hose to a remote location would work.
> 
> 
> I currently have a rear Defender style breather on the top plate of my
> transfer case to solve pressure build up pushing oil through the output
> shaft seals.
> 
> I drilled and tapped the plate then threaded the banjo bolt in. I have a
> line going up and over the e-brake cross shaft to angle it for drainage
> then the tube goes into an existing hole in the cross member that is
> right behind the transfer case in a 109.  The inside of that cross member
> is very well lubed by splash from gears forcing oil up into the vent.
> 
> I'm actually loosing a fairly significant amount of oil through the vent
> in the top plate.
> 
> I still think it is a good idea but a baffle is needed on the underside
> of the plate that will keep splash from being forced up the vent.
> 
> I'm thinking of a braised wedge shape baffle with the open side being
> opposite the direction the gears turn in the forward direction.
> 
> TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
> Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW -
> [email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message
> 
> http://www.shadow-catcher.net      <- Photography for sale
> http://www.overlander.net          <- Web directory for Land Rover
> http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   <- My personal web site
> 
> "How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
> Amelia Earhart 1898-1937
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 13
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 11:36:30 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] wiring with Delco alt. help needed...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Mon, 24 Sep 2001, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:

:
:George, it's really simple.
:
:Main lug takes a 10 or 8-gauge wire right to the positive battery lead at
:the starter switch/relay.
:
:Red-wire terminal from the Delco either gets looped back to the main lug,
:or goes to a switched terminal at the fuse block (recommended install).
:
:White wire goes to the bulb connection that used to connect to the
:regulator. Make sure the bulb is good, and the other side of the bulb
:should connect to +12 volts.
:
:The connections that used to go to the A and A1 terminals on the regulator
:all get jumpered together - the rest of the leads to the regulator need to
:be taped off and insulated at both ends.
:

The white wire can also be connected to one of the wires that you've
disconnected from the regulator -- it goes to the bulb on the dash.
That way, there's no need to take aparteh dash.
:

-- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

--__--__--

Message: 14
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 18:47:01 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Sightings
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Rich & Lori Williams wrote:
 
> Homer and Marge Simpson went to Africa I guess and were on some sort of
> Safari.  The amazing thing was that the detail (even the front grill was
> correct) on the truck was very good considering it was a cartoon!

Frightening how true to life they actually are.

Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

--__--__--

Message: 15
Subject: Re: [lro] wiring with Delco alt. help needed...
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 12:51:35 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>That way, there's no need to take aparteh dash.

Yup - the small wire from the D lead, if I remember correctly. As this car
doesn't have its new harness in yet it seemed to me that going direct to
the bulb might be better, though - one less connection to fail. You are
right, though, Dave, on a vehicle that's just being converted I'll
sometimes do one or the other depending on the condition of the original
harness.

                    ajr

--__--__--

Message: 16
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 13:08:38 -0400
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Organization: U.S. International Broadcasting Bureau
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Cornbinder T-case...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I'm using the Dana 20 case that came with the IH Scout T-19 and 345
motor. I had to do a little fiddling though as the Dana 20 is a center
rear output case with no transmission brake. I had to source a donor
twin stick Dana 18 case as used on older Jeeps with the passenger side
output front and rear and a handbrake. With this in hand I will install
all the 18 guts into the 20 case, giving me a "big hole" 18 case ( a
very rare beast only used on Jeep Gladiator 4WD trucks in the sixties).
As an added bonus, the 18 case comes with a 2.46 low gear. In
combination with the granny first on the T-19, my low crawling gear will
be about 73:1. There is a kit from Tera (www.teraflx.com) that will give
a 3.15 low, but is quite dear and beyond this stage of the game; it also
requires some interior grinding to get it to fit. This overall gearing
is prolly a little bit too low for the highway, so I hope to source a
Warn/Saturn overdrive eventually to get the cruising RPMs back down. I
still have PTO ports on either side of the transmission if I choose to
add hydraulics or farm implements. There is also reputedly a PTO for the
back of the Saturn overdrive, but that's even rarer than the mysterious
"bottom PTO" for rover T-cases. If you have any questions about
installing 'murrican parts into your Rover, give me a shout.
When I get the drive train installed, I should be able to push about 300
horsepower through it with no problem, even though the 345 will only do
about 200 in full tune. I will have to upgrade the rear end to handle
the extra juice.

-- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

--__--__--

Message: 17
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Cornbinder T-case...
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 14:25:42 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Just wondering, what's the guess on the weight of the 345? I noticed a
pretty good increase in front end weight from my swap, mostly attribuable to
the heavy transmission...

J-L
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2001 1:08 PM
Subject: [lro] Cornbinder T-case...

>
> I'm using the Dana 20 case that came with the IH Scout T-19 and 345
> motor. I had to do a little fiddling though as the Dana 20 is a center
> rear output case with no transmission brake. I had to source a donor
> twin stick Dana 18 case as used on older Jeeps with the passenger side
> output front and rear and a handbrake. With this in hand I will install
> all the 18 guts into the 20 case, giving me a "big hole" 18 case ( a
> very rare beast only used on Jeep Gladiator 4WD trucks in the sixties).
> As an added bonus, the 18 case comes with a 2.46 low gear. In
> combination with the granny first on the T-19, my low crawling gear will
> be about 73:1. There is a kit from Tera (www.teraflx.com) that will give
> a 3.15 low, but is quite dear and beyond this stage of the game; it also
> requires some interior grinding to get it to fit. This overall gearing
> is prolly a little bit too low for the highway, so I hope to source a
> Warn/Saturn overdrive eventually to get the cruising RPMs back down. I
> still have PTO ports on either side of the transmission if I choose to
> add hydraulics or farm implements. There is also reputedly a PTO for the
> back of the Saturn overdrive, but that's even rarer than the mysterious
> "bottom PTO" for rover T-cases. If you have any questions about
> installing 'murrican parts into your Rover, give me a shout.
> When I get the drive train installed, I should be able to push about 300
> horsepower through it with no problem, even though the 345 will only do
> about 200 in full tune. I will have to upgrade the rear end to handle
> the extra juice.
>
> --
> Bill Adams
> 3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
> International Broadcasting Bureau
> Washington, D.C.
> 202-205-9638
> [email-masked]
>
>
> '66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
> '81 GoldWing
> '69 Le Sabre Convertible
> '63 Pearson Vanguard
> "Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 18
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 14:23:05 -0400
Subject: [lro] Widening rover steel wheel
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Okay, here goes.

I have seen some wheels on defenders that appear to be nothing more than
stock rover inners (usually riveted to a 16" wheel outer ring) welded to
outer wheel rims sourced  (guessing here) from yankee mobiles. Anyone out
there have any information on this type of setup?

There is a decent picture of this @

http://www.thelen.org/Rubicon98/PIC00053.jpg
and
http://www.thelen.org/Rubicon98/PIC00055.jpg

I am trying to figure out a way to build a strong 15" wheel that will be
offset outwards quite a bit. Widening a rover 15" wheel sounds like a good
idea, but it gets pretty complicated and you can kill yourself. Using a once
piece outer off of a chevy truck (for example) produces a nice tubeless rim,
and pressing in a center off a rover 16" wheel would reduce the possiblility
of screwing up. I was thinking of maybe holding the center down into the
outer ring with a shop press as I lay a bead of weld around the inside.

Anyone seen this done before?

J-L

--__--__--

Message: 19
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 15:44:05 -0400
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Organization: U.S. International Broadcasting Bureau
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Cornbinder T-case...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

If my neighbor and I stand on the front bumper, the parabolics deflect
about 3/16ths. I figger that the new engine will add significant weight,
but not enough to worry the suspension any.
-- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

--__--__--

Message: 20
Date: 24 Sep 2001 12:47:44 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Cornbinder T-case...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Mon, 24 September 2001, "Jean-Leon Morin" wrote:

>Just wondering, what's the guess on >the weight of the 345?

Heavy.  The casting on the Harvester engines was phenomenal.  Actual numbers will follow my arrival home tonight - where the scout manual resides.

Bryan

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

--__--__--

Message: 21
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 14:08:45 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: aaron <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] difference between 2a and 3 brake lines?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

LRO,
Does anybody know the difference between late 2a dual system and 
series 3 brake lines. There is a supplier that has an automec brake 
line kit for series 3 and they say there is no difference between 
that and the late 2a. Looking at parts manuals there are different 
part numbers for a few of the forward lines. Is it the connection to 
the flex lines that is different?

TIA,
Aaron Mount
69 88 in a thousand pieces

--__--__--

Message: 22
From: "Scott Wickham" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Sightings and Freelanders
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 19:05:24 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

ROAV has arranged a Freelander for the Mid Atlantic Rally, courtesy of DAP.

  Hope it has tow points all around!

Scooter

Material possessions never really thrilled me. I guess its like having a
hammer. Owning a hammer isn't thrilling but beating the crap out of
something that doesn't want to cooperate is gratifying.

-Bill Fishel 2001.

--__--__--

Message: 23
From: "Scott Wickham" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Sightings and Freelanders
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 19:08:40 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Great! I'll bring the wood for the pyre and the kerosene.....8*)

          aj"Just kidding....but plastic does burn well....."r

  Oooo, a Viking funeral, just like Luke gave Darth Vader.  I've got the
marshmallows ;)

Scooter

Material possessions never really thrilled me. I guess its like having a
hammer. Owning a hammer isn't thrilling but beating the crap out of
something that doesn't want to cooperate is gratifying.

-Bill Fishel 2001.

--__--__--

Message: 24
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 14:38:23 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Chris <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Re: LRO digest, Vol 1 #93 - 41 msgs
Reply-To: [email-masked]

At 12:05 AM 20/09/01, you wrote:
>Let's see... You could have hired me to install your parabolics. I
>think I hold the record with my four days (not in their entirety,
>thank you) of installation.

I believe the record is 2 hours. Last year at Billing, Ray sold a set to a 
couple of guys. The drove by with the springs on a couple of hours later. 
This was all done at a campsite!.

73,

Chris

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rocky Mountain Products Inc.
3396 Marine Drive
West Vancouver, BC V7V 1M9
Canada

1-888-880-2600
1-604-921-7277
Fax: 1-604-921-7290

[email-masked]
www.wiseowlparts.com

--__--__--

Message: 25
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Cornbinder T-case...
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 20:48:07 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

There will be more Fe in this man's rover once he is done than in three
complete 88"s...

J-L
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2001 1:08 PM
Subject: [lro] Cornbinder T-case...

>
> I'm using the Dana 20 case that came with the IH Scout T-19 and 345
> motor. I had to do a little fiddling though as the Dana 20 is a center
> rear output case with no transmission brake. I had to source a donor
> twin stick Dana 18 case as used on older Jeeps with the passenger side
> output front and rear and a handbrake. With this in hand I will install
> all the 18 guts into the 20 case, giving me a "big hole" 18 case ( a
> very rare beast only used on Jeep Gladiator 4WD trucks in the sixties).
> As an added bonus, the 18 case comes with a 2.46 low gear. In
> combination with the granny first on the T-19, my low crawling gear will
> be about 73:1. There is a kit from Tera (www.teraflx.com) that will give
> a 3.15 low, but is quite dear and beyond this stage of the game; it also
> requires some interior grinding to get it to fit. This overall gearing
> is prolly a little bit too low for the highway, so I hope to source a
> Warn/Saturn overdrive eventually to get the cruising RPMs back down. I
> still have PTO ports on either side of the transmission if I choose to
> add hydraulics or farm implements. There is also reputedly a PTO for the
> back of the Saturn overdrive, but that's even rarer than the mysterious
> "bottom PTO" for rover T-cases. If you have any questions about
> installing 'murrican parts into your Rover, give me a shout.
> When I get the drive train installed, I should be able to push about 300
> horsepower through it with no problem, even though the 345 will only do
> about 200 in full tune. I will have to upgrade the rear end to handle
> the extra juice.
>
> --
> Bill Adams
> 3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
> International Broadcasting Bureau
> Washington, D.C.
> 202-205-9638
> [email-masked]
>
>
> '66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
> '81 GoldWing
> '69 Le Sabre Convertible
> '63 Pearson Vanguard
> "Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 26
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: [lro] Sightings and Freelanders
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 01:16:24 +0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

How is he getting one? They're not being sold until Dec. 1st.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
--author unknown

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 27
From: Nick Danger <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 21:19:52 -0400
Subject: [lro] Lucas Ammeter
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I was just given a small bag of guages from an MG. One of which I would like 
to use in my rover is a Lucas Amp guage. The style matches and it would be a 
nice compliment to the volt guage if I remount them in the center. Question 
is, how? I know it has to go IN the circuit and not just tap on like a 
voltmeter does but I dont know what circuit its supposed to be in. Also its a 
-30 to +30 amp guage. Is this an ok size or am I going to have problems? 
(Most of the store ones like AutoExpert SunPro or whatevers are 60amp)

Any tips?

Thanks all
-Nick

--__--__--

Message: 28
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 21:22:52 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Lucas Ammeter
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Mon, 24 Sep 2001, Nick Danger wrote:

:
:I was just given a small bag of guages from an MG. One of which I would like
:to use in my rover is a Lucas Amp guage. The style matches and it would be a
:nice compliment to the volt guage if I remount them in the center. Question
:is, how? I know it has to go IN the circuit and not just tap on like a
:voltmeter does but I dont know what circuit its supposed to be in. Also its a
:-30 to +30 amp guage. Is this an ok size or am I going to have problems?
:(Most of the store ones like AutoExpert SunPro or whatevers are 60amp)

IF you've got a stock charging system, you'll be okay with the range.  If
you've got a Delco, or something like that, it'll get pegged at startup.  I
ran the stock amp gauge on my 88 with a 60 A delco for a couple years,
seemed to wrok fine.

-- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

--__--__--

Message: 29
From: "Tim Czajka" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 21:14:45 -0600
Subject: [lro] Re: Cornbinder T-case...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Bill Adams wrote:
>With this in hand I will install all the 18 guts into the 20 case, giving 
>me a "big hole" 18 case ( a very rare beast only used on Jeep Gladiator 4WD 
>trucks in the sixties).
>
Unless you are referring to something else, there
were actually a number of Jeep vehicles that used the
"big hole" Dana 18 transfer cases in the sixties up
through 1971.  My 1970 CJ-5 has one.  Although many were
single shifters.  You should have a nice setup with your
double shifters.  FYI - in addition to the TeraLow 3.15
gear set there is also a deeper set made by a maker
called O'Brien's.  Somewhere in the 4 to 1 range but
as I recall quite expensive.

Tim Czajka
1972 Series III 88

_________________________________________________________________
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--__--__--

Message: 30
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 22:36:20 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Lucas Ammeter & other thoughts on tire size-semi long
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I have a 78 amp Delco and 30 amp gauge. Works fine for me except it can
start releasing some smoke during heavy winching. Guess I should do
something about it before I have a nice dash fire. 
 On a different note....
I came to a realization yesterday. I was out taking in a beautiful fall
day out on the trails with Ralph. We ended up going on a trail we hadn't
been on. HOLY SH*T!!! A hill with loads of rocks ranging from 1 1/2' to
3' high. Of course we tried it. After I had become sideways and 
thoroughly high centered, a very lifted abomination of a jeep with 44"
tires appeared at the top. He got annoyed that he had to wait for me to
get unstuck and get out of the way. Once I got down, the a**hole drove
off the trail and around the rocks. His friends were nicer and drove
down the rocks, rearranging them more to our liking on the way. As I
watched them drive over the rocks like they were nothing, it got me
thinking about how bigger tires take the challenge out of the trail, and
that the bigger the tires you have, the less challenging trails there
are in general. It seems they were coming down because they were so tall
and wide that they didn't like the sidehill further up the trail, and
were trying to persuade us that we couldn't make it either. I think that
they were so wide that they were on the bank on the upper side and off 
the road on the lower side, and probably had a hard time making it by
some trees. At one point I had thought that I would like larger tires,
but after yesterday, even though I bent the crap out of my e-brake 
backing plate, dented crossmembers and possibly body panels(hard to tell
with all the old dents), I realized that it is fun because it is a hard
trail, a trail that looks like I shouldn't make it up, and that if I had
bigger tires I would have less fun. Like they say, the thrill is in the
chase. By the way, the sidehill wasn't too bad although Bill Rice might
tend to differ as I started on the trail from the other direction with
him years ago before he moved out here. It was not long after he had
rolled at the MAR or Birthday Party or something, so I didn't blame him
for being cautious. The max was 30 degrees.

David Scheidt wrote:

> IF you've got a stock charging system, you'll be okay with the range.  If
> you've got a Delco, or something like that, it'll get pegged at startup.  I
> ran the stock amp gauge on my 88 with a 60 A delco for a couple years,
> seemed to wrok fine.

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 31
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 22:51:27 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Whistle while you work...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

My newly rebuilt Solex has a cute trick. Once it's warmed up, it whistles 
or squeals. Sounds for all the world like a bad bearing or seal on a 
rotating shaft, but no. Obviously there's a leak somewhere - any hints on 
how to track it down? A visual inspection yields nothing.

Also, how do I keep the thing from dieseling briefly on shutoff? Usually 
just an extra kick after the ignition is turned off, but it's still enough 
to keep my attention. I thought the rebuild would stop this - but at least 
it's not drooling fuel all over the exhaust manifold anymore.

A side note - an "acceptable" frame is far different in Colorado than it is 
in Ontario. I think Basil would have been junked out here. Out east, the 
parts trucks have bad frames and bulkheads and good other bits. Around 
here, the mechanicals are worn out but the frames are solid. Hmm.

Keith
------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

--__--__--

Message: 32
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 22:02:10 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] Whistle while you work...
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Sounds like you're suffering the same Solex blues I am.  Just finished a
rebuild with a gasket kit from Wise Owl.  Carb no longer leaks like a sieve
and performance is way up.  I put in a Pertronix Ignitor which cured miss
caused by the wobble in the distributor, but I've got an exhaust leak I just
can't track down (gives a little throaty worble when I let off the gas and
decelerate).  Between the rebuild and the Pertronix, I am getting 14~16MPG
now which is a big improvement.

Every so often, without enough consistency to isolate, it diesels after I
kill the ignition.  Until I can figure it out, I let it briefly idle after I
come to a stop before I turn off the ignition.  This seems to help.  I also
put it in 4th and will gently let out the clutch if I feel it want to run
over.  

If you can get this figured out, I'd be happy!

Jeff

on 9/24/01 7:51 PM, Keith Tanner at [email-masked] wrote:

> 
> My newly rebuilt Solex has a cute trick. Once it's warmed up, it whistles
> or squeals. Sounds for all the world like a bad bearing or seal on a
> rotating shaft, but no. Obviously there's a leak somewhere - any hints on
> how to track it down? A visual inspection yields nothing.
> 
> Also, how do I keep the thing from dieseling briefly on shutoff? Usually
> just an extra kick after the ignition is turned off, but it's still enough
> to keep my attention. I thought the rebuild would stop this - but at least
> it's not drooling fuel all over the exhaust manifold anymore.
> 
> A side note - an "acceptable" frame is far different in Colorado than it is
> in Ontario. I think Basil would have been junked out here. Out east, the
> parts trucks have bad frames and bulkheads and good other bits. Around
> here, the mechanicals are worn out but the frames are solid. Hmm.
> 
> Keith
> ------------
> Keith's page de home:
> http://keith.miata.net
> ------------
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 33
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 23:14:44 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Whistle while you work...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I got 16.5 mpg on a run to Moab before the rebuild, including some mild 
off-roading. Power seems much the same - and the carb used to diesel 
beforehand. The weird thing is that this "new" carb actually uses a 
throttle body and a bowl from a totally different donor, all new jets - 
there aren't a lot of things left over from the other but it acts the same 
with regard to everything but the drooling and the whistle. The one 
difference is that this new one has an economy jet. Whatever that is.

Keith
------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

--__--__--

Message: 34
From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 01:17:25 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] Lucas Ammeter
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 9/24/01 7:27:02 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> :(Most of the store ones like AutoExpert SunPro or whatevers are 60amp)
> 
> IF you've got a stock charging system, you'll be okay with the range.  If
> you've got a Delco, or something like that, it'll get pegged at startup.  I
> ran the stock amp gauge on my 88 with a 60 A delco for a couple years,
> seemed to wrok fine.
> 
> 
> 

If you're going to wire in the ammeter, you might want to wire in a high 
capacity switch to go around the ammeter when it fails some dark night in the 
woods. The failure mode for ammeters is to "park, and be dark." You could use 
some electrickery, to lower the load, and then re-calibrate the meter, but 
that's actual work. The true rover owner trick is to run it til it fails. 
Then, working in the dark, with marginal tools, move the bolted on terminals 
to stack. Thus wiring around the ammeter so that you can drive home, and get 
warm. Then never fix it again. Til it breaks

Zack
Yeah read the last two sentences again, and again.

--__--__--

Message: 35
From: "Bill Fishel" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 01:23:46 -0400
Subject: [lro] ujoint alternate part# ???
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I'm looking for an alternate part # for the front axle half shafts ujoints. This would be the one inside the swivel housing. I found one on TAW's site, GKN U117.
Last time I was going by alternate #'s I went down a list of them before the parts counter monkey found a match in the computer. Most places didn't want to try cross referencing part #s To them, it doesn't exist if its not in there computer.
Bill Fishel

--__--__--

Message: 36
From: "Paul Quin" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Cc: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Whistle while you work...
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 00:00:17 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Whoa Synchronicity...

I just spent Sunday afternoon fixing my whistling Solex...

I rebuilt it last summer and right afterwards it started to whistle, and
even squeal at times once it had warmed up.  sounded for all the world like
a loose fan belt.

With the rebuild kit from Paddock's ( and a spare rebuild kit which I didn't
really want, from Craddock's which is another story) I also bought a new
packing block and gaskets.  The packing block is the hard plastic or
Bakelite bit that the carb sits on when bolted to the manifold.  It turns
out that the Solex had been torqued down too much onto the manifold and had
developed quite a noticeable bend at the base.  It had probably been bent
like this for years, but when I mounted it onto the new packing block which
was strait, it left a gap that opened when things warmed up, causing the
whistle and quite a vacuum leak.

I could have split the lower end of the carb and attempted a fix like the
traditional Zenith warp fix by grinding things flat on a piece of plate
glass, or just taken it to a machine shop to be flattened (lapped?) but I
took the easy route and just reinstalled the old packing block which had
bent along with the carb and matched it for a perfect seal.

This mornings drive into work was much quieter, and for the first time in
the 5 years I've been driving it, I was able to drive with the cold start
"choke" completely off.

I also managed to adjust the carb linkage so that I get full throttle rather
than 2/3 's throttle.  She doesn't really go any faster, but now she feels
like she really *wants* to go faster :-)

Hope this helps,

Paul Quin
1961 SII 88
Victoria, BC

----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Tanner" <[email-masked]>

>
> My newly rebuilt Solex has a cute trick. Once it's warmed up, it whistles
> or squeals. Sounds for all the world like a bad bearing or seal on a
> rotating shaft, but no. Obviously there's a leak somewhere - any hints on
> how to track it down? A visual inspection yields nothing.

--__--__--

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