Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #90 - 59 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 00:24:03 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: + to - Diesel conversion (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
   2. Re: Series Starter Solonoids - Choices? (John Karlsson)
   3. Re: 4 vs. 6 vcyl tranny input shafts (John Cranfield)
   4. Re: Series Starter Solonoids - Choices? (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
   5. Re: Series Starter Solonoids - Choices? (John Karlsson)
   6. RE: Bumper Stickers (Easton Trevor A)
   7. Re: + to - Diesel conversion (Bill Adams)
   8. Re: Series Starter Solonoids - Choices? (Paul Oxley)
   9. Re: + to - Diesel conversion (Holger Mootz)
  10. Interested in GM Engine conversion stories (Derek Pommerenck)
  11. Santana Overdrive Available (Derek Pommerenck)
  12. RE: WE STAND UNITED (Matt Peckham)
  13. Re: Ashcroft High-Ration TCase ([email-masked])
  14. Re: Latin (was smoking Diesel) (Gerald)
  15. Brake bleeding a 67 IIa (Mark Pilkington)
  16. Re: Brake bleeding a 67 IIa (Bill Adams)
  17. Re: Brake bleeding a 67 IIa (Mark Pilkington)
  18. Re: Brake bleeding a 67 IIa (Bryan Hoult)
  19. Re: Petrol tank question (Faure, Marin)
  20. Re: Petrol tank question (Faure, Marin)
  21. Re: US flags and soap (Scott Wickham)
  22. Re: Re: Petrol tank question (Bryan Hoult)
  23. RE: Brake bleeding a 67 IIa (Tackley, John)
  24. RE: Series Starter Solonoids - Choices? (Matt Peckham)
  25. Re: Radio mounts (Scott Wickham)
  26. Re: Something nice from Canada (Faure, Marin)
  27. Re: Re: Petrol tank question ([email-masked])
  28. Railroad locomotives (Faure, Marin)
  29. Re: Brake bleeding a 67 IIa (Bill Adams)
  30. RE: Brake bleeding a 67 IIa (Keith Tanner)
  31. Re: Re: Something nice from Canada (Keith Tanner)
  32. RE: Series Starter Solonoids - Choices? (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  33. Re: Brake bleeding a 67 IIa (Mark Pilkington)
  34. Re: Series Starter Solonoids - Choices? (Bill Adams)
  35. RE: Series Starter Solonoids - Choices? (Matt Peckham)
  36. Re: layshaft bearing outer race removal (brian ...)
  37. Re: Latin (was smoking Diesel) (Holger Mootz)
  38. Re: US flags and soap (Lori Sickley)
  39. Re: Brake bleeding a 67 IIa (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  40. Re: Brake bleeding a 67 IIa (Mark Pilkington)
  41. RE: Brake bleeding a 67 IIa (Easton Trevor A)
  42. Petrol Tank (Garrick Olsen)
  43. Re: Re: Petrol tank question (Paul Oxley)
  44. Re: Brake bleeding a 67 IIa (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  45. Re: Brake bleeding a 67 IIa (Mark Pilkington)
  46. Re: Brake bleeding a 67 IIa (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  47. Re: Brake bleeding a 67 IIa (Mark Pilkington)
  48. Input shafts (William L Leacock)
  49. RE: movies (James G.Wolf)
  50. Re: Brake bleeding a 67 IIa (David Scheidt)
  51. Re: Brake bleeding a 67 IIa (John Cranfield)
  52. Re: US flags and soap (Scott Wickham)
  53. Re: Latin (was smoking Diesel) (Jim Hall)
  54. Re: Brake bleeding a 67 IIa (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  55. RE: Brake bleeding a 67 IIa (Easton Trevor A)
  56. I'm semi-fameous (Jim Hall)
  57. Re: I'm semi-fameous (Rich & Lori Williams)
  58. Re: Brake bleeding a 67 IIa (Alex Maiolo)
  59. bloody idjuts with big spanners (Dick Joltes)

--__--__--

Message: 1
Subject: Re: [lro] + to - Diesel conversion
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 06:35:15 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Same thing, Andy - just swap the 6-volters around.

Surprised you're still running the old 6-volt series batteries. most of the
folk I know running Diesels have gone to one big honkin' 12-volt or two
12-volt batteries in parallel...

Spins a lot better and longer.

                        ajr

--__--__--

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 07:09:00 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: John Karlsson <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Series Starter Solonoids - Choices?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

At 11:26 PM 9/14/01, Nick wrote:

there a better then Lucas replacement? Its a later lucas type. I almost wish
it was the one with the push button override, would love to have pressed the
button from the engine compartement instead of having to reach in the window
to key start.

You stirred up an old memory.  Several decades ago, the starter switch on 
my '66 Land-Rover decided to take a nap.  My temporary Rube Goldberg repair 
(Is that the same as the Brits' Heath Robinson?) consisted of a solenoid 
with push button override (from my pile of Austin-Healey parts) and a piece 
of old brake line hooked through one of the mounting holes and poked 
through the hole in the bulkhead where the starter switch had 
been.  Pulling on the brake line pushed the override button against the 
bulkhead, and Bob was my uncle for quite a while.  Probably also a good way 
to foil a thief!

John

--__--__--

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 08:16:27 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] 4 vs. 6 vcyl tranny input shafts
Reply-To: [email-masked]

The difference is in the bolt pattern. All else is the same.
John and Muddy

"William J. Rice" wrote:
> 
> Anyone know if these are interchangeable?  My hunch is that they're
> not--seems that the shorter 6-cyl. bellhousing would render the input
> shaft shorter.  But, the bellhousing lengths sure don't look
> different--it appears only the bellhousing bolt pattern's diffo . . .
> 
> bill
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 4
Subject: Re: [lro] Series Starter Solonoids - Choices?
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 07:28:41 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Re: Solenoid with a coathanger override:

{snort} coffee on the monitor again.....

When Mr. C went from being a Diesel to a petrol Rover I decided that the
pushbutton was RIGHT OUT....great idea but I prefer relays. It was a
heckuva lot easier to remove the old Diesel multi-ignition keyswitch and
fit him with a pushbutton and a Ford solenoid than to try and deal with big
wires going every which way.

John, I'm surprised you didn't just put an old switch on the solenoid with
a run to 12-volts and ground....

                              ajr

--__--__--

Message: 5
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 07:53:18 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: John Karlsson <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Series Starter Solonoids - Choices?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

At 07:28 AM 9/17/01, ajr wrote:

>Re: Solenoid with a coathanger override:
>
>{snort} coffee on the monitor again.....
>

Sorry about the monitor!  A little Windex should fix that.

>John, I'm surprised you didn't just put an old switch on the solenoid with
>a run to 12-volts and ground....

It was just a temporary measure to keep me going until I could disassemble 
and clean the original switch.  Last week I finally broke down and bought a 
solenoid, which I plan to activate via the original starter switch.  I 
haven't yet had a chance to look for a suitable mounting spot, i.e., a 
place that is within reach of the cables and where there is room for the 
interloper (solenoid) to reside comfortably.

You may be happy to know that when the ignition switch died almost 30 years 
ago I replaced it with an Austin-Healey windshield wiper switch, and that's 
still working just fine.

John

John Karlsson
956 Main Street
P.O. Box 1023
Hope Valley, RI  02832

--__--__--

Message: 6
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Bumper Stickers
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 08:08:23 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Any competant sign shop can make it up. Ours is attached to a "genuwine"
Land Rover, Solihull badge.

> Trevor, where'd you find that one??
> 
> Ron Ward
> 1995 RR Classic plushy
> 1997 Disco SE nasty
> 
> >>> [email-masked] 09/13/01 06:18PM >>>
> 
>  Our Rangie bears the sticker
> "My other car is a real Land Rover"
> _______________________________________________

--__--__--

Message: 7
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 08:37:53 -0400
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Organization: U.S. International Broadcasting Bureau
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] + to - Diesel conversion
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Andy, when I changed to an alternator, all I did was put in a big 12V
battery in the engine bay, reroute the battery cables and attach the
single alternator wire to the pos terminal of the battery. I have yet to
get the amp meter going, but as yet this has been no issue. With the V8
implant project moving ahead, I'm prolly not going to get to that soon
anyway.
-- 
Bill Adams
Motion Graphics/3D Design Director
IBB Broadcast Design Center, Washington DC
[email-masked]
202-205-9638

1966 Land Rover 2A 109SW Diesel
1981 Honda GoldWing Standard
1963 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

--__--__--

Message: 8
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 13:44:24 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
Organization: AfricanAdrenalin Safaris
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Series Starter Solonoids - Choices?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

John Karlsson wrote:
 
> there a better then Lucas replacement? 

Don't muck about, get a decent Cole Hersee starter solenoid and never
worry about it again.
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

--__--__--

Message: 9
From: "Holger Mootz" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] + to - Diesel conversion
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 13:49:01 +0200
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In my car, i got a single 74 Ah in the engine compartment. It always had
enough power to start the engine, even in coldest winter. I just didn't want
to fiddle with two batteries. Put a Bosch alternator in or something of
similar reliability and power.
PS: I made the whole high amp cables from surplus army jumpstart cables.
Extremely cheap and extremely flexible.

Holger Mootz
Trier Germany

VIVOS VOCO MORTVOS PLANGO FVLGVRA FRANGO

--__--__--

Message: 10
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 07:17:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Derek Pommerenck <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Interested in GM Engine conversion stories
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Interested in GM Engine conversion stories
Hi,
I am interested in hearing any and all GM engine
conversion stories. I am considering using a GM Iron
Command? duke, 3.2l, or 4.3l in my Series III and even
thinking about mating it with a 4spd GM manual tranny
still utilizing my Rover transfer case. I need to hear
from those with experience and also find the adapter
plates that allow me to do it.

Thanks,

> > Derek
> > 73 SIII 109 2.25 diesel

=====
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
DEREK A. POMMERENCK
1st Lieutenant, US Army Corps of Engineers
HQ, C/554th Engineer Battalion
104 Hickory Ridge Dr.
Saint Robert, MO 65583
Home: (573) 336-8469

__________________________________________________
Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
Donate cash, emergency relief information
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/

--__--__--

Message: 11
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 07:18:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Derek Pommerenck <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Santana Overdrive Available
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Santana Overdrive Available

On ebay, check it out
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?> 

[email-masked]

=====
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
DEREK A. POMMERENCK
1st Lieutenant, US Army Corps of Engineers
HQ, C/554th Engineer Battalion
104 Hickory Ridge Dr.
Saint Robert, MO 65583
Home: (573) 336-8469

__________________________________________________
Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
Donate cash, emergency relief information
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/

--__--__--

Message: 12
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: [lro] WE STAND UNITED
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 10:25:51 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

yeah, I had a fender bender 3 minutes after I stuck a 13 star flag from the
back of my roofrack.  lady slammed into my hitch, but only did damage to her
dodge duster.

I figured I was in for a long day...
http://www.nexterra.org/photos/mtwashington2001/pages/DCP_2467.htm

Matt

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Hall [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2001 6:27 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] WE STAND UNITED

And put a flag on your car! I found that if you have a big ass flag, 
read military funeral size, 5'x10'?, that no one tailgates you. I guess
it makes them feel unamerican or something. It did however cause one
minor accident as a lady was leaning out her window shouting "God bless
America", and failed to notice the car in front of her had stopped at
the red light. No damage luckily. 
 Rover content: I have been having a miss lately. It can be heard at
idle, but is only felt at full throttle at high rpm's. I am thinking
the most likely suspects are points or mis-adjusted valves. Any other
things that might cause it? I will start checking in a while.

Rich Williams II wrote:
> 
> Friday Night at 7:00 p.m. step out your door, stop your car (or Rover), or
> step out of your establishment and light a candle.  We will show the world
> that Americans are strong and united together against terrorism.  Please
> pass this to everyone on your e-mail list.  We need to reach everyone
across
> the United States quickly.
> 
> The message:
> 
> WE STAND UNITED - WE WILL NOT TOLERATE TERRORISM.
> 
> We need press to cover this-- we need the world to see.
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 13
From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 10:44:58 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] Ashcroft High-Ration TCase
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Matt
    Sorry about the long delay in responding back to you. I was behind to 
start with and then I moved. The phone company screwed up the line and I have 
been off line ever since.
    The low range swap you are referring to is using suffix B tansfer case 
components. Currently I only have the bull gear but not the intermediate 
cluster but am working on getting these soon. The components can be hard to 
find. I am also working on a custom setup that raises high range a bit and 
lowers low range more than the suffix B stuff.

Regards
Bill
GBR

--__--__--

Message: 14
From: Gerald <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Latin (was smoking Diesel)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 10:53:27 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Excuse my bad Latin, what does "VIVOS VOCO MORTVO PLANGO FVLGVRA FRANGO"
mean? "The living call the dead . . ."???

On Sat, 8 Sep 2001 21:35:05 +0200, you wrote:

>
>Hello!
>Please excuse my bad english, i'm from germany.
. . . .
>
>Holger Mootz
>
>Trier
>
>
>VIVOS VOCO MORTVO PLANGO FVLGVRA FRANGO

--
Gerald
[email-masked]

--__--__--

Message: 15
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 09:15:36 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Brake bleeding a 67 IIa
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Sorry to ask the same question again, but I have just replaced all the brake parts
in a 67 Series IIa 88 and cannot get the air out. Single line non-boosted system,
stock. New slaves all round, new shoes, new lines and a new CB Type master. no
leaks anywhere, but I CANNOT bleed it. All kinds of people have all kinds of
theories that "have worked every time" but not this time. it will pump up with
about 10 fast strokes and then if you keep the pressure on it will hold and not
fade, but if you release the pedal and press it again, it will go to the floor. No
leaks and the Master is NEW. It is the same problem I had a few months ago that I
never fixed because the tiny little 327 was being removed to be replaced by a 350
and the brakes went on hold for a while. Any advice?  I even lifted the front of
the vehicle about 3 feet and tried bleeding it to no avail.  The method I am using
is the pump and bleed into a jar of brake fluid method.
Thanks.
Kind regards,
Mark Pilkington

--__--__--

Message: 16
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 12:34:15 -0400
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Organization: U.S. International Broadcasting Bureau
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake bleeding a 67 IIa
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I think you have the leading and trailing shoes on the wrong way round. 
-- 
Bill Adams
Motion Graphics/3D Design Director
IBB Broadcast Design Center, Washington DC
[email-masked]
202-205-9638

1966 Land Rover 2A 109SW Diesel
1981 Honda GoldWing Standard
1963 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

--__--__--

Message: 17
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 09:40:22 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake bleeding a 67 IIa
Reply-To: [email-masked]

But I put them in exactly as they came out.  How can you tell by looking at
them that they are the wrong way round.  Thanks.

Bill Adams wrote:

> I think you have the leading and trailing shoes on the wrong way round.
> --
> Bill Adams
> Motion Graphics/3D Design Director
> IBB Broadcast Design Center, Washington DC
> [email-masked]
> 202-205-9638
>
> 1966 Land Rover 2A 109SW Diesel
> 1981 Honda GoldWing Standard
> 1963 Pearson Vanguard
> "Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 18
Date: 17 Sep 2001 09:49:10 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake bleeding a 67 IIa
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Mon, 17 September 2001, Mark Pilkington wrote:

>it will pump up with about 10 fast
>strokes and then if you keep the
>pressure on it will hold and not fade,
>but if you release the pedal and press
>it again, it will go to the floor. No
>leaks and the Master is NEW.

Mark,

I had a similar problem when I picked up my 62 88 a couple of years ago.  The PO had put in new wheel cylinders, master cylinder, new flex lines, new linings and new drums. The brake pedal, however, would not hold without pumping.  After I brought it home (scary ride!) I checked out each wheel for proper installation of shoes, cylinders, etc.  Everything was fine.  I finally took apart the new master cylinder and found that it was letting fluid past the piston. I rebuilt the "new" one with some of the internals from a spare I had, and viola.

The other thing is if the locating posts aren't anchored in one or more wheels.  Pumping vigorously may locate and "grab" the shoes, where normal operation doesn't compensate for the corroded or otherwise loose post.

Bryan
62 88
70 109 "Genie"

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

--__--__--

Message: 19
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 09:51:19 -0700
Subject: [lro] Re: Petrol tank question
Reply-To: [email-masked]

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 19:53:46 EDT
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Petrol tank question
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Got a small leak in the petrol tank.  Noticed it today at work.  When I do 
the swap, can it be done by just removing the cover on the seat base?  It's 
been awhile since I've done this, and I don't remember if I ended up pulling 
the seatbox too.

You have to remove the tank from under the vehicle.  You do not have to remove 
the seatbox, but you do have to remove the panel in the seat base over the tank 
to access the connections.  It's a very easy job, takes less than an hour.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
Producer/Director, Boeing Video Services
telephone (425)393-7721
mobile (206)650-5622
fax: (425)393-7741
e-mail: [email-masked]

--__--__--

Message: 20
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 09:54:34 -0700
Subject: [lro] Re: Petrol tank question
Reply-To: [email-masked]

From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Petrol tank question
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 00:38:29 +0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>On a related note, when I fill up the Red Zit, I can smell gas. Once the 
fuel is down a bit the smell goes away. I'm suspecting a leaky filler hose. 
Does that sound right?

Could be one of three things.  Leaking or loose filler hose. Failing gasket 
around the fuel tank quantity sensor in the top of the tank.  Failing seam 
or pinholes in the upper half of the tank.  This last is a pretty remote
possibility, 
however.  Series tanks generally start to pinhole in the bottom.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
Producer/Director, Boeing Video Services
telephone (425)393-7721
mobile (206)650-5622
fax: (425)393-7741
e-mail: [email-masked]

--__--__--

Message: 21
From: "Scott Wickham" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] US flags and soap
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 12:58:46 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

  Lori, will you and Joe be at MAR?  Courtney wants to buy some soap for
Christmas gifts.

Scooter

Material possessions never really thrilled me. I guess its like having a
hammer. Owning a hammer isn't thrilling but beating the crap out of
something that doesn't want to cooperate is gratifying.

-Bill Fishel 2001.

--__--__--

Message: 22
Date: 17 Sep 2001 10:02:32 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Petrol tank question
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Mon, 17 September 2001, "Faure, Marin" wrote:

>It's a very easy job, takes less than 
>an hour.

Do yourself a favor and pickup some 1/8" or so gasket material and Permatex Hi-Tack sealant.  Hi Tack is red, non-hardening and resistant to degradation at the hands of gasoline.  The tank will seal much better than with the stock gaskets provided normally.

Bryan
62 88
70 109 "Genie"

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

--__--__--

Message: 23
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Brake bleeding a 67 IIa
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 13:12:04 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Check your brake shoes carefully...you could have your leading - trailing
shoes in the wrong position(s)i.e. reversed, or you may have the spring
going from shoe to shoe, rather than from leading shoe to post on backing
plate (yup, the trailing shoe has no spring attached).

JT/ric

--__--__--

Message: 24
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: [lro] Series Starter Solonoids - Choices?
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 13:10:47 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Now, if anyone can find me a part # for a 24V Cole Hersee, I'd be all set.
I bought one, looked to have the same set up, and as soon as I attached it
it didn't work.  I have since toasted the 12V Ford one that Alan was so kind
as to get working in my truck, but I need a real solution... 12V lasted much
longer than I expected.

Matt "soon to be a dad, therefore limited in terms of project time" Peckham

-----Original Message-----
From: Dick Joltes [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2001 10:56 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Series Starter Solonoids - Choices?

When Smudger's solenoid died I ended up -- on Herr Richer's advice -- 
using a Ford
Maverick unit and it worked as stated.  The bloody mounting holes were 
even still
usable.  $8.99 at a local Pep Boys, change the spade lug, and Bob's yer 
uncle.  
Works great.

The only detraction is that whereas the old solly's high-amp lugs stuck 
straight up
about 2.5" apart (thus shortable with a heavy screwdriver for emergency 
starts)
the Ford's lugs are on opposite sides, making this trick a bit harder.

dj

1974 SIII Airportable, "Smudger"

Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:

>Yup - there is a cheap NAPA (or anywhere else) replacement.
>
>Generic Ford starter solenoid - circa 1970s anything.
>
>About 5 bucks at any local auto-parts pace - only change you will end up
>making is the spade lug either needs a spade-to-ring adapter or to have its
>spade lug removed and a ring put on the end of the red-and-white wire.
>
>You might need to drill another hole to mount it - the spacing is different
>than the Lucas one - but they work fine electrically and can be had
>anywhere.
>
>                        ajr
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
>.
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 25
From: "Scott Wickham" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Radio mounts
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 13:14:02 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

.  If anybody has made
something like this, would they care to comment on how it works in real
life?

  I just whipped one up for Sherman, similar to what Bill F. has in his 88".
Nice location, speakers are right in front of you, you can reach all
controls while still looking at the road.  Put some padding on the edges for
your noggin'

Scooter

Material possessions never really thrilled me. I guess its like having a
hammer. Owning a hammer isn't thrilling but beating the crap out of
something that doesn't want to cooperate is gratifying.

-Bill Fishel 2001.

--__--__--

Message: 26
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 10:19:42 -0700
Subject: [lro] Re: Something nice from Canada
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I referenced a painful but accurate (in my opinion) newspaper 
opinion about the terrorist attacks that was published in a Canadian 
newspaper the day after the events.  The author examines why, in 
his opinion, the atmosphere in the US was ripe for something like this 
to happen.  Not particularly pleasant reading if you're a US citizen, but 
the truth sometimes isn't pleasant.  If you want to read it, it was
published 
on Wednesday, Sept 12 in the National Post.  The author is Mark Steyn, 
and the paper has a website, www.nationalpost.com .  You may be able 
to find the opinion article there.

I don't know that a long discussion on the how's and why's of the attacks 
is appropriate for this list, although everyone certainly has an opinion and
is 
free to express it.  While I think Mr. Steyn hit a lot of nails on the head 
in his article, I am not advocating getting into a pro and con discussion on

what he says. But he brings up a number of points worth thinking about.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

--__--__--

Message: 27
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 13:28:32 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Petrol tank question
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated Mon, 17 Sep 2001  1:03:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]> writes:

> 
> 
> Do yourself a favor and pickup some 1/8" or so gasket material and Permatex Hi-Tack sealant.  Hi Tack is red, non-hardening and resistant to degradation at the hands of gasoline.  The tank will seal much better than with the stock gaskets provided normally.
> 

Thanks for the tip.  I was just going to use the flexible "Form-a-Gasket"(tm), but I'll make a gasket and add the sealant stuff.

Nate

--__--__--

Message: 28
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 10:32:27 -0700
Subject: [lro] Railroad locomotives
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Someone on this list months ago asked me for the number of a 
Burlington Northern Santa Fe GP30 that I had seen operating in 
Bellingham, WA.  Right after that it disappeared for many weeks, 
and then it reappeared last month.  There are now two of them, 
in fact, 2743 and 2811.

While they are physically identical to the old GP30 I am familiar with, 
BNSF has labeled them "GP39."  So I suspect these are GP30s 
that have been repowered with larger engines at some point.  (The 
model number generally refers to the locomotive's horsepower rating, 
so a GP30 was a 3,000 hp unit, while a GP39 would be a 3,900 hp unit.) 
The two locomotives appear to be used as switchers or in multiple-
unit lashups to move short trains in the Bellingham-Vancouver 
corridor.  They are both painted in the old Burlington Northern 
green/black paint scheme and are lettered for Burlington 
Northern only, no reference to Santa Fe.  No Land Rover 
content, other than the fact I was driving one when I 
copied the locomotive road numbers down yesterday.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

--__--__--

Message: 29
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 13:43:00 -0400
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Organization: U.S. International Broadcasting Bureau
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake bleeding a 67 IIa
Reply-To: [email-masked]

It's been a while since I eyeballed the brake shoes, but as I recollect,
the leading shoe has a bit more lining and goes on towards the front.
The idea is that the drum rotation tends to wedge the shoe.
-- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

--__--__--

Message: 30
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 11:28:37 -0600
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Brake bleeding a 67 IIa
Reply-To: [email-masked]

..and make sure your adjusters are set right. It could be that it takes 10 
pumps to get the shoes in contact with the drum, although that's pretty 
extreme.

It took me quite a while to bleed the brakes in Basil (a 67 IIa, by 
coincidence) the first time. Part of the problem was an incorrectly rebuilt 
master cylinder - telltale sign was the fluid level rising in the reservoir.

Keith

--__--__--

Message: 31
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 11:36:56 -0600
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Something nice from Canada
Reply-To: [email-masked]

The direct link to the story is 
http://www.nationalpost.com/search/story.html?f=/stories/20010912/698848.html&qs=steyn

Keith

At 11:19 9/17/01, you wrote:

>I referenced a painful but accurate (in my opinion) newspaper
>opinion about the terrorist attacks that was published in a Canadian
>newspaper the day after the events.  The author examines why, in
>his opinion, the atmosphere in the US was ripe for something like this
>to happen.  Not particularly pleasant reading if you're a US citizen, but
>the truth sometimes isn't pleasant.  If you want to read it, it was
>published
>on Wednesday, Sept 12 in the National Post.  The author is Mark Steyn,
>and the paper has a website, www.nationalpost.com .  You may be able
>to find the opinion article there.
>
>I don't know that a long discussion on the how's and why's of the attacks
>is appropriate for this list, although everyone certainly has an opinion and
>is
>free to express it.  While I think Mr. Steyn hit a lot of nails on the head
>in his article, I am not advocating getting into a pro and con discussion on
>
>what he says. But he brings up a number of points worth thinking about.
>___________________________
>C. Marin Faure
>   (original owner)
>   1973 Land Rover Series III-88
>   1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
>   Seattle
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

--__--__--

Message: 32
Subject: RE: [lro] Series Starter Solonoids - Choices?
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 13:50:56 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Matt, the one you got was a solid-state unit that got toasted when you were
experimenting with the connections...

Just go to the Mack truck shop off 93 (I believe the Dascomb Road exit) and
pick up a 24-volt solenoid.

                                    aj"Or put on another 12-volt one..."r

--__--__--

Message: 33
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 10:56:52 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake bleeding a 67 IIa
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Does anyone have a picture of the "ideal" brake shoe installation.  This
would help with what I am looking for as well as all the very helpful advice
all of you are giving me.
Mark

Bill Adams wrote:

> It's been a while since I eyeballed the brake shoes, but as I recollect,
> the leading shoe has a bit more lining and goes on towards the front.
> The idea is that the drum rotation tends to wedge the shoe.
> --
> Bill Adams
> 3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
> International Broadcasting Bureau
> Washington, D.C.
> 202-205-9638
> [email-masked]
>
> '66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
> '81 GoldWing
> '69 Le Sabre Convertible
> '63 Pearson Vanguard
> "Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 34
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 13:55:51 -0400
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Organization: U.S. International Broadcasting Bureau
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Series Starter Solonoids - Choices?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Matt, try this site:
http://www.wms1.com/wms1/index.html
They seem to have the solenoid thing covered.
-- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

--__--__--

Message: 35
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: [lro] Series Starter Solonoids - Choices?
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 13:53:46 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

alrighty.

-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2001 1:51 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: [lro] Series Starter Solonoids - Choices?

Matt, the one you got was a solid-state unit that got toasted when you were
experimenting with the connections...

Just go to the Mack truck shop off 93 (I believe the Dascomb Road exit) and
pick up a 24-volt solenoid.

                                    aj"Or put on another 12-volt one..."r
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 36
From: "brian ..." <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] layshaft bearing outer race removal
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 18:13:27 
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hey Bill,

I used a handle to a sledgehammer (minus the heavy sledge part), clay
(used in ceramics class), and an anti-freeze bottle cap to liberate the
race from the back of the gearbox.  Tape the bottle cap to the end of the
handle.  The cap fits nicely into the race.  Pack the race with the
clay.  Place the cap end of the handle into the gearbox where the race is
located and whack the other end of the handle with a heavy hammer. 
Repack the race with more clay and whack some more.  Eventually the clay
will free the race from the gearbox, so that you may install the new one.

Hope this helps,
Brian....
1971 IIA 88 SW " M "
St. Louis, MO

>From: "William J. Rice" >Reply-To: [email-masked] >To:
[email-masked] >Subject: [lro] layshaft bearing outer race removal
>Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 08:27:19 -0600 > > >Hey folks, >I understand I
can drill a hole in the back of the gearbox through which >I can pound
this thing out. >Where do I drill? > >bill
>_______________________________________________ >LRO mailing list
>[email-masked] >http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

--__--__--

Message: 37
From: "Holger Mootz" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Latin (was smoking Diesel)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 20:14:44 +0200
Reply-To: [email-masked]

VIVOS VOCO MORTVO PLANGO FVLGVRA FRANGO
I am calling the living, I bemoarn the dead, I am chasing lightnings.

It's the first line of a famous german poem, Schillers "Glocke" (Bell). This
poem is about some parallels between casting a bell and all the necessary
precautions and stuff, and human life in general.
I didn't find an english translation.:
http://gutenberg.aol.de/schiller/gedichte/glocke.htm

You can try to translate it via Altavista. Should be quite funny, but you
will get an idea what it is about. The sentence "VIVOS VOCO MORTVO PLANGO
FVLGVRA FRANGO" is also written on Imre Nagys tombstone on Pere Lachaise
cemetary, Paris, but originates from a huge church bell in Strassbourg,
france. I think it means that a bell calls the people to church on sunday,
transmits the information about someones death, and because of its huge
metallic mass high up in the air, occasionally catches a lightning. So does
my still nameless (shame on me) diesel land rover definetively calls the
living, making them leave their houses to see where that strange sound is
coming from, mourns his own near dead (I NEED a new timing chain), and has
been struck by lightning twice on Mont Ventoux, france (I didn't see the
first, but my french companion articulated something like
'your..your..your.. ' and then it banged again. We where about half a mile
away from the car, it was raining like hell, but we didn't dare to get any
closer until the thunderstorm was over.) There was no visible damage, even
the CD-radio still works.
I am not sure about "frango". It could mean "to hunt" or "to chase away". I
prefer the first meaning, because it gives expression of my cars ability of
lightninglike speeds.

Again, please excuse my bad english,  i amm justt a stupit hunnnn.

Holger Mootz
Trier, jermennie

--__--__--

Message: 38
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 14:48:53 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: Lori Sickley <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] US flags and soap
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Does that qualify the middy as a business trip? I'd have to go! ; )

No gumbo : (
Can't get "neighbor Joe back-up tow" to follow, er, follow me, so I'm not 
sure if I'll venture that far on my own and will probably decide the night 
before : )

Let me know what you need a couple of days prior and if I don't go I can 
ship them out.

Lori

PS
Will there be a Mary Kay meeting? <EG>

At 12:58 PM 9/17/01, Scooter wrote:

>   Lori, will you and Joe be at MAR?  Courtney wants to buy some soap for
>Christmas gifts.
>
>Scooter
>
>Material possessions never really thrilled me. I guess its like having a
>hammer. Owning a hammer isn't thrilling but beating the crap out of
>something that doesn't want to cooperate is gratifying.
>
>-Bill Fishel 2001.

--__--__--

Message: 39
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake bleeding a 67 IIa
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 01 12:04:26 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> It's been a while since I eyeballed the brake shoes, but as I recollect,
> the leading shoe has a bit more lining and goes on towards the front.
> The idea is that the drum rotation tends to wedge the shoe.

Well, having a poor memory I tend to write myself notes so I don't make 
the same dumb mistake a seond time.  It just so happens that my crib 
notes are stashed online.

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman/LR/FAQ_rearbrakes.htm

will give you access to my notes on rear brake shoes.

Also,

I much prefer pressure bleeding on series brake & clutch systems.  It 
does a much better job of getting air out.

Make sure all shoes are adjusted first.

With a new master cylinder check to be sure the nuts setting the pedal to 
master cylinder linkage is correctly set and that the pin bushing on your 
brake pedal is not overly worn.  A little slop there can add up to a fiar 
amount of brake travel.

Also, are the rubber lines new?  If not check them visually.  A poor 
condition one might ballon up a bit under pressure causing additional 
volume to be needed.

Then there is also the posibility of a bad new master cylinder.  Doesn't 
happen often but it can happen and you could be the lucky recipicant.

Best of luck

TeriAnn         
                      http://www.overlander.net

  The world's most complete set of links connecting Rover 4X4 owners
  with Rover parts, service, accessory & sales companies world wide.

--__--__--

Message: 40
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 12:12:11 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake bleeding a 67 IIa
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Terriann, you had this sentence on your site.  "The tapered end of both shoes
go to the top by the wheel cylinder." Does this mean the wide end of the taper
or the narrow end of the taper?  Thanks.
Mark

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:

> > It's been a while since I eyeballed the brake shoes, but as I recollect,
> > the leading shoe has a bit more lining and goes on towards the front.
> > The idea is that the drum rotation tends to wedge the shoe.
>
> Well, having a poor memory I tend to write myself notes so I don't make
> the same dumb mistake a seond time.  It just so happens that my crib
> notes are stashed online.
>
> http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman/LR/FAQ_rearbrakes.htm
>
> will give you access to my notes on rear brake shoes.
>
> Also,
>
> I much prefer pressure bleeding on series brake & clutch systems.  It
> does a much better job of getting air out.
>
> Make sure all shoes are adjusted first.
>
> With a new master cylinder check to be sure the nuts setting the pedal to
> master cylinder linkage is correctly set and that the pin bushing on your
> brake pedal is not overly worn.  A little slop there can add up to a fiar
> amount of brake travel.
>
> Also, are the rubber lines new?  If not check them visually.  A poor
> condition one might ballon up a bit under pressure causing additional
> volume to be needed.
>
> Then there is also the posibility of a bad new master cylinder.  Doesn't
> happen often but it can happen and you could be the lucky recipicant.
>
> Best of luck
>
>
> TeriAnn
>                       http://www.overlander.net
>
>   The world's most complete set of links connecting Rover 4X4 owners
>   with Rover parts, service, accessory & sales companies world wide.
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 41
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Brake bleeding a 67 IIa
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 15:18:40 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

The picture in the manual shows SII 11" rears with the gap in the liner at
the leading end of each shoe. The smooth end of the shoe bears on the
adjuster and the bumpy end on the wheel cylinder.
For the IIA the liner gaps are equal and the shoes appear symmetrical about
a vertical axis the smooth end at the bottom the bumpy end at the top and
the pin bears on the snail cam.

> Terriann, you had this sentence on your site.  "The tapered end of both
> shoes
> go to the top by the wheel cylinder." Does this mean the wide end of the
> taper
> or the narrow end of the taper?  Thanks.
> Mark

--__--__--

Message: 42
From: "Garrick Olsen" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 15:01:12 -0500
Subject: [lro] Petrol Tank
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Remember how heavy several gallons of gas is!  You will have to drain the
tank before the swap.  A 5 gal pail fit perfectly under my plug, but I
needed 2 of them... I have a smell from the top of my aftermarket
(allmakes, I think) tank.  It comes from over filling at the blanking
plate.  I just put on a new cork gasket and used gasket sealer this time.
I plan to fill it today, so we'll see if it helps!  -Rikin Minnesota, USA1960
SWB SW

------------------------------------------------------------------------

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--__--__--

Message: 43
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 22:47:14 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Petrol tank question
Reply-To: [email-masked]

"Faure, Marin" wrote:

> Could be one of three things.  Leaking or loose filler hose. Failing gasket
> around the fuel tank quantity sensor in the top of the tank.  Failing seam
> or pinholes in the upper half of the tank. 

Sounds more like the breather hose is rotten, leaking at the hose clamps
if you only get the smell when the tank is full, or maybe the gasket
after all.
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

--__--__--

Message: 44
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake bleeding a 67 IIa
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 01 13:57:04 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Terriann, you had this sentence on your site.  "The tapered end of both shoes
>go to the top by the wheel cylinder." Does this mean the wide end of the 
>taper or the narrow end of the taper?  Thanks.

Now, I'm confused (remember previous statment about poor memory)

As I recall one end of the rear brake shoe is cut perpendicular to the 
shoe sides and the other end tapers to a point.

SInce the pointy end of the taper is at the end of the brake shoe, I mean 
the narrow end of the taper goes to the top by the wheel cylinder. THe 
wide end of the taper is a couple inches from the end of the shoe and can 
not fit at the top and have the drum fit.

Is this a trick question or are we completely misunderstanding one 
another????

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.shadow-catcher.net      <- Photography for sale
http://www.overlander.net          <- Web directory for Land Rover 
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   <- My personal web site

"In the world of type A & type B drivers consider me a type C gypsy  
traveler.  Destinations are optional and not necessarily desirable."

--__--__--

Message: 45
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 14:16:23 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake bleeding a 67 IIa
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I think that we are both confused.  What I am going to do, in an amazing display
of cunning, is pull the drum off my Series III and look at it in comparison.
After that and a lot of swearing, if it is not fixed, I will reluctantly pull the
master and get another "new" one.  How important is it to bench bleed these things
prior to installation, and if bench bled, how to you get it back in the vehicle
without spilling brake fluid everywhere.  Luckily, I have the fenders off it at
the moment.
Thanks for all your advice, the amalgamation of it all will be applied in
practicality tonight.  Oh what fun................

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:

> >Terriann, you had this sentence on your site.  "The tapered end of both shoes
> >go to the top by the wheel cylinder." Does this mean the wide end of the
> >taper or the narrow end of the taper?  Thanks.
>
> Now, I'm confused (remember previous statment about poor memory)
>
> As I recall one end of the rear brake shoe is cut perpendicular to the
> shoe sides and the other end tapers to a point.
>
> SInce the pointy end of the taper is at the end of the brake shoe, I mean
> the narrow end of the taper goes to the top by the wheel cylinder. THe
> wide end of the taper is a couple inches from the end of the shoe and can
> not fit at the top and have the drum fit.
>
> Is this a trick question or are we completely misunderstanding one
> another????
>
> TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
> Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW -
> [email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message
>
> http://www.shadow-catcher.net      <- Photography for sale
> http://www.overlander.net          <- Web directory for Land Rover
> http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   <- My personal web site
>
> "In the world of type A & type B drivers consider me a type C gypsy
> traveler.  Destinations are optional and not necessarily desirable."
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 46
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake bleeding a 67 IIa
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 01 14:34:20 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>I think that we are both confused.  What I am going to do, in an amazing 
>display
>of cunning, is pull the drum off my Series III and look at it in comparison.

I hope you are not going to compare 109 and 88 brakes.  I do hope you are 
referring to a SIII 109.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

--__--__--

Message: 47
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 14:38:44 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake bleeding a 67 IIa
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Oh no, they are both 88's.  Are they the same?  67 Series IIa SWB and a 73 Series
III SWB.....

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:

> >I think that we are both confused.  What I am going to do, in an amazing
> >display
> >of cunning, is pull the drum off my Series III and look at it in comparison.
>
> I hope you are not going to compare 109 and 88 brakes.  I do hope you are
> referring to a SIII 109.
>
> TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
> Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
> [email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
>                               and more
>
> http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 48
To: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 16:16:05 -0400
From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Input shafts
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Attn Bill Rice.  There is no difference between the 4 cyl and 6 cylinder
input shafts on later 2A models.
 
Regards from Western New York State

  Bill Leacock.

--__--__--

Message: 49
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 06:12:51 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: "James G.Wolf" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] RE: movies
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Rovers AND Clint Eastwood?  Can a movie get any better?
yeah! Rovers and nude females 6^0.
Jim Wolf

--__--__--

Message: 50
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 17:23:15 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake bleeding a 67 IIa
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Mon, 17 Sep 2001, Mark Pilkington wrote:

:
:Oh no, they are both 88's.  Are they the same?  67 Series IIa SWB and a 73 Series
:III SWB.....

Should be.  88 brakes are the same up to 1980; later than that, the 88 got
bigger brakes.

-- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

--__--__--

Message: 51
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 19:26:42 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake bleeding a 67 IIa
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Have you installed the upper brake springs beween the shoes. If so this
is your problem. It is only the shoe that has the adjuster that has the
spring attached. The other end of the spring is hooked to a peg behind
the opposite shoe.
John and Muddy

Mark Pilkington wrote:
> 
> Sorry to ask the same question again, but I have just replaced all the brake parts
> in a 67 Series IIa 88 and cannot get the air out. Single line non-boosted system,
> stock. New slaves all round, new shoes, new lines and a new CB Type master. no
> leaks anywhere, but I CANNOT bleed it. All kinds of people have all kinds of
> theories that "have worked every time" but not this time. it will pump up with
> about 10 fast strokes and then if you keep the pressure on it will hold and not
> fade, but if you release the pedal and press it again, it will go to the floor. No
> leaks and the Master is NEW. It is the same problem I had a few months ago that I
> never fixed because the tiny little 327 was being removed to be replaced by a 350
> and the brakes went on hold for a while. Any advice?  I even lifted the front of
> the vehicle about 3 feet and tried bleeding it to no avail.  The method I am using
> is the pump and bleed into a jar of brake fluid method.
> Thanks.
> Kind regards,
> Mark Pilkington
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 52
From: "Scott Wickham" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] US flags and soap
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 18:50:50 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Can't get "neighbor Joe back-up tow" to follow, er, follow me, so I'm not
sure if I'll venture that far on my own and will probably decide the night
before : )

  Oh it's not that far.  Right down I81 a bit...  Should be a good rally as
usual.

Let me know what you need a couple of days prior and if I don't go I can
ship them out.  Can you email me a list of all your different soap off list?
I'll show it to Courtney.  She loves it.

PS
Will there be a Mary Kay meeting? <EG>

  There will be a few representatives from our organization there, you bet
;)  I finally noticed a light pink Caddy with the Mary Kay sticker on the
back window.  I was in the RR, MY MK sticker was on the other side so she
didn't see it.  I thought it was real funny though.
  The main rep, Mark L., will be present and selling stickers for 1$.  I got
a funny look from him when I got back from Ottawa and gave him the money for
the ones I sold.  Something like $21 US and $20 CA ;)  "What am I going to
do with this Canadian money?"  "Guess you'll have to make the Ottawa Rally
next year so you can spend it!"

Scooter

Material possessions never really thrilled me. I guess its like having a
hammer. Owning a hammer isn't thrilling but beating the crap out of
something that doesn't want to cooperate is gratifying.

-Bill Fishel 2001.

--__--__--

Message: 53
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 17:25:39 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Latin (was smoking Diesel)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

You can stop worrying about your bad english because it is quite good.
If you hadn't said you were from Germany, I never would have guessed
you were from a different country.

Holger Mootz wrote:

> Again, please excuse my bad english,  i amm justt a stupit hunnnn.

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 54
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake bleeding a 67 IIa
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 01 16:49:59 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

 Oh gosh, excuse me all to heck, I just came back from a LR trip and was 
catching up on my e-mails when I read a message in this thread.

Somehow I was under the impression the subject vehicle was a 109.  The 
rear brake comments are good for 109s only.

Pardon my interuption. 

>Oh no, they are both 88's.  Are they the same?  67 Series IIa SWB and a 73 
>Series
>III SWB.....

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.shadow-catcher.net      <- Photography for sale
http://www.overlander.net          <- Web directory for Land Rover 
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   <- My personal web site

"In the world of type A & type B drivers consider me a type C gypsy  
traveler.  Destinations are optional and not necessarily desirable."

--__--__--

Message: 55
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "'Mark Pilkington '" <[email-masked]>, "[email-masked] '"
  <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Brake bleeding a 67 IIa
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 20:31:52 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

 In that case front and rear are alike except for the slave cylinder bore.
The plates that fit on the bottom post bolt to the bottom of the shoes. The
leading shoe has the lining gap at the top and the spring goes between the
shoe and backplate post. The adjuster is on the leading shoe. The trailing
shoe has no adjuster and the spring at the bottom goes between the two
shoes.

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Pilkington
To: [email-masked]
Sent: 9/17/01 5:38 PM
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake bleeding a 67 IIa

Oh no, they are both 88's.  Are they the same?  67 Series IIa SWB and a
73 Series
III SWB.....

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:

> >I think that we are both confused.  What I am going to do, in an
amazing
> >display
> >of cunning, is pull the drum off my Series III and look at it in
comparison.
>
> I hope you are not going to compare 109 and 88 brakes.  I do hope you
are
> referring to a SIII 109.
>
> TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
> Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
> [email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
>                               and more
>
> http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 56
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 18:03:18 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: "lro" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] I'm semi-fameous
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I guess on the way to the British Conclave, someone took my picture
which then ended up in the Rocky Mountain News. I had the big flag on
of course. So if anyone wonders who the rover on page 19 belongs to,
it's me!!!
-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 57
From: "Rich & Lori Williams" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] I'm semi-fameous
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 18:15:19 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Jim, 

If there is a weblink to this with the RMN, please share it with us.

Thanks.

> 
> I guess on the way to the British Conclave, someone took my picture
> which then ended up in the Rocky Mountain News. I had the big flag on
> of course. So if anyone wonders who the rover on page 19 belongs to,
> it's me!!!
> -- 
> Jim Hall
> 1966 88" Elephant Chaser
> http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
> "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
> with Jim." Mitch Stockdale
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 58
From: "Alex Maiolo" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake bleeding a 67 IIa
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 22:03:57 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Mark-
Have you considered:

a) getting a suction type bleeder and "pulling" from the other end
b) having an auto shop use a pressurized bleeder to "push" the DOT 4
through.

Both methods seem to solve bleeding problems pretty handily.

Best Regards,
Alex Maiolo
Chapel Hill NC

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Pilkington" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2001 12:15 PM
Subject: [lro] Brake bleeding a 67 IIa

>
> Sorry to ask the same question again, but I have just replaced all the
brake parts
> in a 67 Series IIa 88 and cannot get the air out. Single line non-boosted
system,
> stock. New slaves all round, new shoes, new lines and a new CB Type
master. no
> leaks anywhere, but I CANNOT bleed it. All kinds of people have all kinds
of
> theories that "have worked every time" but not this time. it will pump up
with
> about 10 fast strokes and then if you keep the pressure on it will hold
and not
> fade, but if you release the pedal and press it again, it will go to the
floor. No
> leaks and the Master is NEW. It is the same problem I had a few months ago
that I
> never fixed because the tiny little 327 was being removed to be replaced
by a 350
> and the brakes went on hold for a while. Any advice?  I even lifted the
front of
> the vehicle about 3 feet and tried bleeding it to no avail.  The method I
am using
> is the pump and bleed into a jar of brake fluid method.
> Thanks.
> Kind regards,
> Mark Pilkington
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 59
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 00:27:52 -0400
From: Dick Joltes <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] bloody idjuts with big spanners
Reply-To: [email-masked]

New brake hoses arrived Monday and I decided to get Kris (my S.O. and 
budding
Rover fanatic--she sez she'd like her own SIII 88)  involved in the fun. 
 We repair
to the garage, I pull the offside front tyre, and proceed to teach her 
how to change
a flex brake hose.

No problem--about 20 minutes and it's knocked.  Kris enjoys herself.  I 
start to
plot how I can get her to do the rest of the hoses while I work on oil 
seals....hmmm.

"Now," sez I, "we need to bleed the brake line to get the air out.  So 
bring the shop
light around this side of the wheel and I'll show you where the bleed 
fitting is."

She does.  I shop-rag the area and look.  Then I look again.  Nothing.  
Frown.

Scrub some more, rag catches on something sharp.  Screwdriver to clean 
around
the area, and there's the remains of the bleed screw, snapped off about 
1/8" proud of
the wheel cylinder body.  Sod it all!  I spend 30 seconds cursing the 
faceless goon
who over-tightened the thing however many years ago.

Hmmm...not enough to grab hold of.  Well, let's try this.  Pop the drum 
off, have her
watch as I carefully depress the brake pedal once...twice.  "Hey, the 
shoes moved."  
Ah, lovely.  One more push and one cylinder boot pops free, releasing 
air.  Another
slight push and fluid starts to drip out of the cylinder.  Push again 
slightly to make sure
it drips steadily as she keeps it from running all over.  Ah, fine.

Now, carefully push the shoes back to rest position, refitting the 
cylinder boot and
cleaning up the remaining fluid.  Refit the drum, push the pedal.  No 
leaks and there's
no sponginess--the brake is gripping as the wheel can't be turned when 
the pedal
is pushed.  Much happiness, the S.O. is intrigued, all's well.  Scotch 
follows.

System is more-or-less bled, I think.  Next step is, of course, a new 
bleed screw
and the inevitable removal of the broken one (probably requiring 
dismounting of the
whole cylinder as there's nowhere to work).  Anyone know if a US-stock 
screw off
something domestic will work, or am I stuck ordering one?

cheers,

dj
1974 SIII Airportable, "Smudger"

--__--__--

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