Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #78 - 27 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 03:05:00 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Convert + to - How Difficult? (Andrew H. Litkowiak)
   2. Re: Convert + to - How Difficult? (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
   3. Re: Convert + to - How Difficult? (David Scheidt)
   4. Re: Convert + to - How Difficult? (TeriAnn Wakeman)
   5. Re: TDi (Andre Shoumatoff)
   6. Re: Buying a series (Andre Shoumatoff)
   7. Re: TDi (Andre Shoumatoff)
   8. Re: Re: Buying a series (Perrone Ford)
   9. Re: 200 vs 300 (Faure, Marin)
  10. caring for exhaust tubing (Rob MacCormick)
  11. Re: Re: TDi (Frank Elson)
  12. Re: ARB compressor installation (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  13. Re: caring for exhaust tubing (Bryan Hoult)
  14. Re: caring for exhaust tubing (Perrone Ford)
  15. Window Channels (M. Tompkins)
  16. Re: caring for exhaust tubing (Rob MacCormick)
  17. Re: Window Channels (Mark Pilkington)
  18. Re: caring for exhaust tubing (Bryan Hoult)
  19. Re: Re: TDi ([email-masked])
  20. interesting (Rich Williams II)
  21. Stainless Exhausts (was Re: Buying a series) (G. Mugele)
  22. Re: Stainless Exhausts (was Re: Buying a series) (John Cranfield)
  23. Re: Window Channels (asfco)
  24. shackles and front springs follow up (Jeff Bieler)
  25. Re: shackles and front springs follow up (Winn Bearden)
  26. (no subject) (William L Leacock)
  27. Re: Re: TDi (Paul Oxley)

--__--__--

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 08:21:47 -0500
From: "Andrew H. Litkowiak" <[email-masked]>
To: Land Rover List <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Convert + to - How Difficult?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Subject says it all. Series IIa. What is involved in the conversion?

Harness?

Components?

Can I retain my gauges starter generator etc?

Somehow, I suspect that simply reversing the + and - terminals would
be a BAD THING :-)

Andy Litkowiak

--__--__--

Message: 2
Subject: Re: [lro] Convert + to - How Difficult?
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 10:00:07 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Somehow, I suspect that simply reversing the + and - terminals would
be a BAD THING :-)

Andy Litkowiak

Actually, no. WOuld run, but not well. As long as you don't have a radio or
polarity-sensitive electronics....

All you need to do is the following:

Disconnect battery
Dismount and rotate the coil 180 - then reconnect wires. This reverses the
_+ and - connections and keeps the wiring neat.
Reconnect the battery, reversing its positions and grounding the negative
side.

Using a long lead, connect said lead to the positive terminal of the
battery and spark the field lead connection of the generator. This will
repolarize the genny (resetting the polarity of the neutron flow...er
magnetic field...8*) with respect to the reset electrical system).

That's about it. Everything should work as well as it did before the
conversion.

                    ajr

--__--__--

Message: 3
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 09:10:05 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: Land Rover List <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Convert + to - How Difficult?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Wed, 5 Sep 2001, Andrew H. Litkowiak wrote:

:
:Subject says it all. Series IIa. What is involved in the conversion?
:
:Harness?
:
:Components?
:
:Can I retain my gauges starter generator etc?
:
:Somehow, I suspect that simply reversing the + and - terminals would
:be a BAD THING :-)
:

Well, you need to switch the battery cables around.  And you have to
polarize the generator -- connect a wire from the positive post of the
battery, and touch the other side to the field terminal on the genny (it's
the smaller wire).  It should have a nice spark.  You should also reverse
the wires on the coil.  That's it for a stock truck.  10 minutes.

If you've got fancy electrics, you're probably in for more work, though a
fair amount of stuff that works on positive ground can be switched to work
on negative ground.

-- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

--__--__--

Message: 4
Subject: Re: [lro] Convert + to - How Difficult?
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 01 08:09:36 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>>Subject says it all. Series IIa. What is involved in the conversion?

>Well, you need to switch the battery cables around.  And you have to
>polarize the generator -- connect a wire from the positive post of the
>battery, and touch the other side to the field terminal on the genny (it's
>the smaller wire).  It should have a nice spark.  You should also reverse
>the wires on the coil.  That's it for a stock truck.  10 minutes.

You also need to switch the wires on the back of the AMP meter.  So add 5 
min to R&R the main instrument panel.  If you have never seen the factory 
rat's nest behind the panel just looking at it then trying to stuff it 
all back in will take most of the extra 5 minutes.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

--__--__--

Message: 5
From: "Andre Shoumatoff" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 12:36:17 -0400
Subject: [lro] Re: TDi
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I was always under the assumption TDi stood for "Turbo Diesel, Intercooled."
A lot of cars are directly injected so if D stood for direct injection I
would
think a lot more cars (or at least technically speaking) would bear that
insignia.
For example, a Volvo 240 turbo goes by B23FTi (B23F standing for the
engine).
These engines are directly injected too....?

Andre Shoumatoff, 74FJ40
http://www.uvm.edu/~ashoumat

--__--__--

Message: 6
From: "Andre Shoumatoff" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 12:46:46 -0400
Subject: [lro] Re: Buying a series
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Marin,
>
>    The parts to do everything I did on my truck were available at the
> local muffler shop. I didn't know that when I ordered my parts from
> Summit.   They need only know that you have a 2 1/8"  pipe.  Total time
> to cut out the old cats, install new ones, and fit a new muffler was
> about 45 minutes. once it was on the lift.  Total cost ~$225 including
> parts and labor.
>
> -Perrone

Yes but it wasn't stainless.  Does anyone know how much more effective
stainless is in exausts?
I have some stainless pieces that are definetly pretty rusty in other
vehicles.  Does it last longer anyways?  --Probably farther down the the
exaust line where there is less heat, I imagine they last longer?

Andre

--__--__--

Message: 7
From: "Andre Shoumatoff" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 12:57:48 -0400
Subject: [lro] Re: TDi
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Bill Rice wrote: >>>a 200tdi in a 110 and he said that I'd
>> have to move the breakfast and radiator forward to get it and its
>> intercooler in the engine bay of my 109<<<
>
> Because the 110 breakfast and radiator is so far forward - a styling
> exercise only - Land Rover had to add a lengthener to the fan shroud.
> I've seen a host of Tdis in Ser motors, oddly enough here in the UK it is
a
> popular modification and it does fit fairly easily.

Another option is using a (set of?) Saab intercoolers out of a 900 series
turbo.  They are small and designed to fit in more obscure locations but
still very effective.  In a 900 they only use one but I'd think with two
you'd have the equivalent of a larger intercooler there if not more.  And
another option is that you could scrap the Rover radiator completely and use
the intercooler/radiator setup out of a 700 series turbo Volvo which has a
unit (had the rad/int seperate, but held together by brackets) with a large,
wide, but thin radiator and huge intercooler that together come to about 4"
wide --roughly a little wider than the OEM Rover radiator.  With some minor
fabrication and custom hoses you could probably have a heck of setup pretty
easily.  Food for thought...

Andre

--__--__--

Message: 8
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 13:19:02 -0400
From: Perrone Ford <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Buying a series
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I didn't have exhaust piping replaced.  If I lived in an area with a lot 
of road salt, I'd consider stainless tubing.  But mild steel is good for 
3-4 winters if treated properly.  My dad never replaced exhausts more 
than that when I was up in NYC/NJ and they salted the roads if we got a 
light dusting of snow!  Now, considering that stainless is 4x the cost 
of mild steel, that's maybe 12-16 years worth of mild steel before I 
recoup the costs of the stainless.  

Your choice...

-P

Andre Shoumatoff wrote:

>>Marin,
>>
>>   The parts to do everything I did on my truck were available at the
>>local muffler shop. I didn't know that when I ordered my parts from
>>Summit.   They need only know that you have a 2 1/8"  pipe.  Total time
>>to cut out the old cats, install new ones, and fit a new muffler was
>>about 45 minutes. once it was on the lift.  Total cost ~$225 including
>>parts and labor.
>>
>>-Perrone
>>
>
>Yes but it wasn't stainless.  Does anyone know how much more effective
>stainless is in exausts?
>I have some stainless pieces that are definetly pretty rusty in other
>vehicles.  Does it last longer anyways?  --Probably farther down the the
>exaust line where there is less heat, I imagine they last longer?
>
>Andre
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
>
>.

--__--__--

Message: 9
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 10:18:59 -0700 
Subject: [lro] Re: 200 vs 300
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 11:12:47 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
Organization: AfricanAdrenalin Safaris
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] 200 vs 300
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Yup, and what does TDi stand for, and why is it significant?

I believe the T is for Turbo, the D is for diesel, and I believe the 
"i" stands for intercooled.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

--__--__--

Message: 10
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 13:28:17 -0400
From: Rob MacCormick <[email-masked]>
Organization: Boston College
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] caring for exhaust tubing
Reply-To: [email-masked]

My newly replaced exhuast is of the mild steel variety. Chosen for cost
considerations.
What would be practical and reasonable manners to extend the life of mild
steel exhaust tubing....

.................snip

> But mild steel is good for
> 3-4 winters if treated properly.  ...........snip

--__--__--

Message: 11
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: TDi
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 18:07:30 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Andre wrote: >>>I was always under the assumption TDi stood for "Turbo
Diesel, Intercooled."
> A lot of cars are directly injected <<<

as I said in an earlier posting, never assume anything where Land Rover is
concerned.
 Yes, a lot of cars are direct injected.... now. They weren't in 1989 when
the Tdi came out and Land Rover copywrited the name pretty smartly...

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

--__--__--

Message: 12
Subject: Re: [lro] ARB compressor installation
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 01 10:17:04 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>TeriAnn,
>how are the noise levels with the QAii mounted inside?

It is noisy but it isn't on very long and I certainly do not turn it on 
during my choosen quiet time.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

--__--__--

Message: 13
Date: 5 Sep 2001 10:53:27 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] caring for exhaust tubing
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>What would be practical and >reasonable manners to extend the life >of mild steel exhaust tubing....

To assure longevity and proper function, I lubricate the sections of the exhaust system near the bellhousing and transmission output liberally while driving.  To enhance performance, I dent, scratch, and crack the rear sections almost weekly.  

Seriously, beyond regularly packing the muffler bearings with grease (90 wt. burns off) not much attention is needed.

Bryan
62 88
70 109 "Genie"

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

--__--__--

Message: 14
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 13:58:20 -0400
From: Perrone Ford <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] caring for exhaust tubing
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Well,

    Back in the day, my dad used to just take a hose and spray off the 
road salt.  Seemed to work well for him.  One of the biggest problems I 
have seen with exhausts is people not making sure their hangars are in 
good order.  You want to make sure that the exhaust is well supported, 
otherwise it really causes stress spots and failures.  Especially if you 
are off-roading and causing a lot of shocks.

-P

Rob MacCormick wrote:

>My newly replaced exhaust is of the mild steel variety. Chosen for cost
>considerations.
>What would be practical and reasonable manners to extend the life of mild
>steel exhaust tubing....
>
>.................snip

--__--__--

Message: 15
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 14:56:43 -0400
From: "M. Tompkins" <[email-masked]>
Organization: M&M Stained Glass
To: Land Rover Owners <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Window Channels
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Planning on replacing the window channels.
Should I buy the original parts and use stainless steel screws?
Or some thing else?
Recommeded sealant?
Any techniques I needed to know about?

Thanks,
Mike
'66 Hybrid Coiler 109" SW
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Trails/6623/

--__--__--

Message: 16
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 15:25:11 -0400
From: Rob MacCormick <[email-masked]>
Organization: Boston College
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] caring for exhaust tubing
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Thanks for the tips I'll add them to my current regime of using my mouth to suck out any lingering gases after shut down....Rob

Bryan Hoult wrote:

> >What would be practical and >reasonable manners to extend the life >of mild steel exhaust tubing....
>
> To assure longevity and proper function, I lubricate the sections of the exhaust system near the bellhousing and transmission output liberally while driving.  To enhance performance, I dent, scratch, and crack the rear sections almost weekly.
>
> Seriously, beyond regularly packing the muffler bearings with grease (90 wt. burns off) not much attention is needed.
>
> Bryan
> 62 88
> 70 109 "Genie"
>
> ________________________________________________
> PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart.
> http://www.peoplepc.com
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 17
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 12:33:21 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Window Channels
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I just did this on a 109 Safari with four doors and the rear sliders.
The channels were $50 each here and $6 from the Land Rover Supermarket
in England. It is pretty straight forward to do, but for God's sake keep
all the parts from each window together. You'll be buggered if you
jumble all the pieces up. Clean all the glass while it is out because it
is easier. Use the same holes if you can, so use the same spacers.  The
spacers are what steps the glass over one thickness so they can slide
past each other. I used good old silicone because it is very hard to
hold everything in place while you drill the new channels.  Make sure
all the writing on the glass is the right way up "triplex" blah blah it
will say.  One of mine was upside down. Do not lose the little "bump
stops" in the front corner of each window.  These are to stop glass
touching the metal door frame when slid fully open. Also notice that the
top and bottom channels are the full length of the frame and the
vertical one is "inside" them.  Cut the bottom channel both sides of the
window lock if it is a Series III.
Good luck. It will take all day if it is a LWB Safari and 6 hours or so
if it is an 88"
Kind regards,
Mark Pilkington

"M. Tompkins" wrote:

> Planning on replacing the window channels.
> Should I buy the original parts and use stainless steel screws?
> Or some thing else?
> Recommeded sealant?
> Any techniques I needed to know about?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
> '66 Hybrid Coiler 109" SW
> http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Trails/6623/
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 18
Date: 5 Sep 2001 12:52:31 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] caring for exhaust tubing
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Perrone's response was, of course, much more mature.  One thing I left off my list of procedures was temple tempering.  I swear I've done this.  It's easiest to do when analyzing some other part of the truck (starter motor for instance) for failure.  While the exhaust pipe is still hot, tilt your head to look at the starter leads and press your temple against the the bend in the down pipe.  It's best if there is a sharp rock underneath the other side of your head so when you jerk your head away from the down pipe, you impale the other temple on the point.  What follows is an exquisite parade of pain and confusion as you alternate rapidly between the point of the rock and the hot down pipe.  I'm not sure this is good for exhaust system, but I can only hope.  Most people who know me are glad to hear that I am familiar with this procedure.

Bryan
62 88
70 109 "Genie"

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

--__--__--

Message: 19
From: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 15:57:01 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: TDi
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 9/5/01 1:38:41 PM, [email-masked] writes:

>Land Rover copywrited the name pretty smartly...
>
>

then why is VW using Tdi as their name for their new, 1.9L turbodiesel?

adam

--__--__--

Message: 20
From: "Rich Williams II" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 16:26:34 -0700
Subject: [lro] interesting
Reply-To: [email-masked]

for all those driving behind a Series truck complain about the relatively
slow speed, this ought'a shut 'em up

http://brightnet.horizontel.com/mvs/photo/May21_a1%201.jpg

--__--__--

Message: 21
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 16:40:25 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: "G. Mugele" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Stainless Exhausts (was Re: Buying a series)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

At 12:46 PM -0400 9/5/01, Andre Shoumatoff wrote:
>Yes but it wasn't stainless.  Does anyone know how much more effective
>stainless is in exausts?
>I have some stainless pieces that are definetly pretty rusty in other
>vehicles.  Does it last longer anyways?  --Probably farther down the the
>exaust line where there is less heat, I imagine they last longer?

I can't offer any testimony of side by side comparisons but I have 
owned two cars with stainless exhausts systems stock from the 
factory.   In twenty years of ownership (so far) neither exhaust 
system ever needed any attention.  To be fair about this data point: 
both cars were always in California with brief occasional trips to 
adjoining states and both are diesels (meaning the interior of the 
system was liberally coated with carbon.) .   Both have been well 
cared-for and been well maintained but certainly not babied.

Also, long ago, had a VW Beetle with a stainless extractor exhaust 
which last > 80K with no problems and the subsequent owner loved it 
too.

Based on these experiences I would not hesitate to use stainless even 
at multiples of the price of mild steel.  The reduced hassles are 
often worth the extra expense.  Ever heard an unmuffled diesel?

       _
     / o\_         Gerald Mugele
    /   )-- \       [email-masked]
   /    |            Glen Ellen, CA
*** "I have never let my schooling interfere with my education." - Mark Twain

--__--__--

Message: 22
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 21:02:16 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Stainless Exhausts (was Re: Buying a series)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

"G. Mugele" wrote:

  Ever heard an unmuffled diesel?

Yep...every time the tractor goes in the shed  :)
John and Muddy

--__--__--

Message: 23
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 20:12:20 -0400
From: asfco <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Window Channels
Reply-To: [email-masked]

"M. Tompkins" wrote:

> Planning on replacing the window channels.
> Should I buy the original parts and use stainless steel screws?
> Or some thing else?
> Recommeded sealant?
> Any techniques I needed to know about?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
> '66 Hybrid Coiler 109" SW
> http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Trails/6623/
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

Glue the channels in....forget the screws they are not needed
Rgds
Steve Bradke  '68 lla 88

--__--__--

Message: 24
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 18:16:01 -0700
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>, <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] shackles and front springs follow up
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Well, I was busy again this morning.  After butchering a set of frame
bushings at the end of July, I installed Great Basin poly bushings with my
new parabolics.  Time will tell how they do.  Worst case is I have to
install new ones a bit more frequently, but I'm OK with that as it's now
easy to do.  If the spring bushings go out, at least I can have those
pressed in and out for a few bucks locally.  No more pounding away with a
chisel and sledge hammer.

Anyway, while in there, I decided to try on a set of front military shackles
to see how that would effect the problem of my right front spring hitting
the frame.  The shackles got the spring away from the frame, but the drive
shaft was able to hit the cross member under full extension.  I am running
OME shocks and they allowed the axle to drop too far.  I put the stock
shackles back on and will just drive carefully until this gets resolved.

Peter, I guess I'm hoping you'll be able to help with the modified shackles.
Otherwise, I'll find a local guy to fab something up.

Tomorrow night, the Pertronix goes in which should cure my low RPM miss.

Jeff

--__--__--

Message: 25
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 20:35:07 -0400
From: Winn Bearden <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] shackles and front springs follow up
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Military frames have a modified crossmember (notched out.)

Jeff Bieler wrote:

> Anyway, while in there, I decided to try on a set of front military shackles
> to see how that would effect the problem of my right front spring hitting
> the frame.  The shackles got the spring away from the frame, but the drive
> shaft was able to hit the cross member under full extension.

--
Winn Bearden          19XX SIIa/SIII/RR 100" Hybrid
P.O. Box 464          1967 NADA 109" SW (in pieces)
Americus, GA 31709    1996 4.0 SE

--__--__--

Message: 26
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 21:17:43 -0400
From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] (no subject)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

So does anyone know why the series 3 have nine leaves and our ambulance
only
8?  J

The 8 leaf springs are made from thicker, less flexible material, thus
heavier load rating. 

Regards from Western New York State

  Bill Leacock.

--__--__--

Message: 27
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 08:22:09 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
Organization: AfricanAdrenalin Safaris
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: TDi
Reply-To: [email-masked]

[email-masked] wrote:

> >Land Rover copywrited the name pretty smartly...

> then why is VW using Tdi as their name for their new, 1.9L turbodiesel?

The name, not the acronym, is copyrighted. VW's TDI prolly stands for
Turbo Diesel Intercooled, or some such.

Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

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