Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #76 - 24 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 03:03:31 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: leaf springs (Ian Stuart)
   2. Re: 2-pump brakes...new linings? (Chris Oles)
   3. Re: leaf springs (Kirk Hillman)
   4. Re: leaf springs ([email-masked])
   5. Re: leaf springs ([email-masked])
   6. John Craddock's Customer Service :( (Derek Pommerenck)
   7. Re: John Craddock's Customer Service :( (Peter Ogilvie)
   8. Re: John Craddock's Customer Service :( (Paul Quin)
   9. Re: 2-pump brakes...new linings? (Paul Oxley)
  10. 2-pump brakes...troubleshooting continued (joe mulqueen)
  11. Re: 2-pump brakes...new linings? (David Scheidt)
  12. bleeding brakes (Chris Schramm)
  13. Re: Buying a Series (was ex-MOD) (Jean-Leon Morin)
  14. Re: Buying a Series (was ex-MOD) ([email-masked])
  15. Re: bleeding brakes (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  16. 200 tdi is AWESOME! (Winn Bearden)
  17. Buying a Series (C. Marin Faure)
  18. Re: Buying a Series ([email-masked])
  19. RE: Buying a Series (Perrone Ford)
  20. Re: 200 vs 300 (Hope Peter)
  21. Re: Buying a Series (Hope Peter)
  22. Re: 200 vs 300 (William J. Rice)
  23. Re: 200 tdi is AWESOME! (William J. Rice)
  24. Re: parabolics sag` ([email-masked])

--__--__--

Message: 1
Subject: Re: [lro] leaf springs
From: Ian Stuart <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: 03 Sep 2001 09:19:54 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Fri, 2001-08-31 at 19:38, DaveB wrote:
> 
> --- [email-masked] wrote:
> > 
> > see:
> > 
> > http://www.roverworx.com/Jeep/buggy.jpeg
> > http://www.roverworx.com/Jeep/ramp1.jpeg
> > http://www.roverworx.com/Jeep/ramp2.jpeg
> 
> yeah. these are from the same website. you do the math...
> 
> http://www.roverworx.com/UROC/uroc8.jpg
> http://www.roverworx.com/UROC/uroc9.jpg
> 
I've looked at these pictures with interest, and I'm concerned about the
stability of such a vehicle on the highway - they seem to be very soft,
and I'd be surprised if they were stable at any reasonable speed...

Just my thought...

-- 

--==++
Ian Stuart
A man in serious need of a Brain Transplant

--__--__--

Message: 2
From: "Chris Oles" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] 2-pump brakes...new linings?
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 13:26:45 
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Paul wrote:

"The most common reason for multi-pump brakes on a non-boosted 88"
(109"'s don't seem to be as susceptible to this) series vehicle is wear
on the brake shoes which then requires that they have to be opened wider
than what the limited amount of fluid in the system is capable of with a
single pump"

Would I replace just one, both rear or all?  Would this also account for the 
really strong pulling to the left (Possible worn shoes on right rear).

Thanks Paul,

Chris
70 SIIa

_________________________________________________________________
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--__--__--

Message: 3
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] leaf springs
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 07:26:00 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

    I ran into a guy at one of my suppliers a few months ago.  I noticed him
drive into the parking lot when I did.  He was driving a serious (but nice
looking) J**p.  This thing was heavily modified for real world use, not just
look good on the road.  Anyway, I recognize the guy when he gets out as
someone I have worked with a number of years ago.  The end results were that
we spent a while talking about what he did to his rig.  He did the WHOLE
frame up rebuild including modifications over a winter in the evenings.  He
did a VERY nice job too.
    One thing in particular I noticed was the suspension.  He had 3/4
elliptic in the rear and Revolver shackles in the front.  Both ends could be
locked out for safety on the road.  He seems very stable on the road.  He
can't corner like a racecar, but he doesn't fall over or have terrible lean
either.  I admit he wouldn't be able to rock crawl like those pictures on
roverworx.com, but who wants to?  The kind of off roading I do in the
terrain I do would make that much suspension useless... possibly dangerous.
    Either Ray at Wise Owl or Bill at Great Basin had a chat with me a
couple of years ago about extreme articulation.  This was after the first
Twist off or something like that.  The results were that the best overall
vehicles scored only 800-900 on the RTI ramp.  My preference is a little
more, in the 1100 range (in theory).  My point is that after a certain
point, the practical use of extreme articulation diminishes.  I would rather
have a stable vehicle with lockers than this extreme flex.  Personal opinion
anyway...

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 4
From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 10:09:26 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] leaf springs
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 9/3/01 4:15:18 AM, [email-masked] writes:

>I've looked at these pictures with interest, and I'm concerned about the
>stability of such a vehicle on the highway - they seem to be very soft,
>and I'd be surprised if they were stable at any reasonable speed...

with the second set of pictures you are absolutely right! but the first set, 
of the 3/4 elliptical, or buggy spring setup, would be quite stable on the 
road.  especially with a mechanism to lock the buggy leaf in place as to keep 
it from dropping out on road.  then it just becomes a standard leaf spring 
acting out its usual duties.

adam

--__--__--

Message: 5
From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 10:17:08 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] leaf springs
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 9/3/01 9:38:00 AM, [email-masked] writes:

>  I would rather
>have a stable vehicle with lockers than this extreme flex.  Personal opinion
>anyway...

as would I.  that is why my goal in this suspension is to design a very flexy 
(ie 1100-1200 rti) but also be one of the most stable things around.  i want 
to be able to confidently take a 45 deg. plus side slope, drive it on the 
street every day, and never have to worry "oh shit i bet im going to roll on 
this easy sidehill"

adam

--__--__--

Message: 6
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 08:07:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Derek Pommerenck <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] John Craddock's Customer Service :(
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Attention All Land Rover Enthusiasts:

John Craddock's in UK does not take care of its
customers.  I ordered Land Rover parts on 19Apr01 from
them for over $200 of stuff, and still have not
received the shipment although they took the money
before it was even shipped.  They claim it was
recieved on 15May01, but someone else signed for it,
and now they won't give my money back.  Sound scary? 
What if this happened to you?  Don't let it happen to
you, don't order from John Craddock's in the UK, order
from someone repsectable like Paddocks or LR
Supermarket.

Please tell all your other Land Rover owner friends
about this incident!

Sincerely,
Derek A. Pommerenck
1973 LR Series III Diesel

=====
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
DEREK A. POMMERENCK
1st Lieutenant, US Army Corps of Engineers
HQ, C/554th Engineer Battalion
104 Hickory Ridge Dr.
Saint Robert, MO 65583
Home: (573) 336-8469
Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger
http://im.yahoo.com

--__--__--

Message: 7
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] John Craddock's Customer Service :(
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 08:14:28 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

It would seem your problem is with the shipping company.  If Craddock's put 
the right address on the package, it was either delivered to the wrong 
address or someone at your address ripped you off.  Things like this are 
what insurance is for.  Did you ask for or did Craddock's, on their own, 
insure the package??  That would be where you should be looking for redress.

Despite all the above, your cavalier treatment by Craddocks seems to be par 
for the course.  Customer relations are not their strong point.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

>From: Derek Pommerenck <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: [email-masked]
>Subject: [lro] John Craddock's Customer Service :(
>Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 08:07:17 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>Attention All Land Rover Enthusiasts:
>
>John Craddock's in UK does not take care of its
>customers.  I ordered Land Rover parts on 19Apr01 from
>them for over $200 of stuff, and still have not
>received the shipment although they took the money
>before it was even shipped.  They claim it was
>recieved on 15May01, but someone else signed for it,
>and now they won't give my money back.  Sound scary?
>What if this happened to you?  Don't let it happen to
>you, don't order from John Craddock's in the UK, order
>from someone repsectable like Paddocks or LR
>Supermarket.
>
>Please tell all your other Land Rover owner friends
>about this incident!
>
>Sincerely,
>Derek A. Pommerenck
>1973 LR Series III Diesel
>
>=====
>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>DEREK A. POMMERENCK
>1st Lieutenant, US Army Corps of Engineers
>HQ, C/554th Engineer Battalion
>104 Hickory Ridge Dr.
>Saint Robert, MO 65583
>Home: (573) 336-8469
>Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 8
From: "Paul Quin" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] John Craddock's Customer Service :(
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 11:48:36 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Who was the shipping company?   Ask for a faxed copy of the Bill of Lading.
See if they put the right address on it.  If they did, then your beef is
with the carrier.  If they didn't, then you have a case with them.

Paul in Victoria.

--__--__--

Message: 9
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 18:20:55 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] 2-pump brakes...new linings?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Chris Oles wrote:
 
> Would I replace just one, both rear or all?  Would this also account for the
> really strong pulling to the left (Possible worn shoes on right rear).

Using the adjustment on the backing plate you can easily determine which
brakes aren't working. Start there. You may find that it will be a
better long term solution to check the other shoes and drums also, to
see whether or not they are within tolerance.
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

--__--__--

Message: 10
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 13:46:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: joe mulqueen <[email-masked]>
To: LRO <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] 2-pump brakes...troubleshooting continued
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I've had similar experiences.
JoeMulqueen
'67 SIIA 109 SW

.....The most common reason for multi-pump brakes on a
non-boosted 88" (109"'s don't seem to be as
susceptible to this) series vehicle is wear on the
brake shoes which then requires that they have to be
opened 
wider than what the limited amount of fluid in the
system is capable of with a single pump. If this
sounds like it could be the case, adjust the
individual shoes out until they brake the wheel, then
relax the
adjustment a tad. If the shoes are already adjusted
out as far as possible then it's time to look at
relining the shoes.
 Regards
Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com............
Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger
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--__--__--

Message: 11
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 16:15:00 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] 2-pump brakes...new linings?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Mon, 3 Sep 2001, Paul Oxley wrote:

:
:Chris Oles wrote:
:
:> Would I replace just one, both rear or all?  Would this also account for the
:> really strong pulling to the left (Possible worn shoes on right rear).
:
:Using the adjustment on the backing plate you can easily determine which
:brakes aren't working. Start there. You may find that it will be a
:better long term solution to check the other shoes and drums also, to
:see whether or not they are within tolerance.
:

If you can adjust the brakes properly, and you still have two pump  brakes,
check whether the brakes work properly in reverse.  If they work correctly,
I'd bet that your packing blate posts are loose.  At the bottom of the
backing plate, there's a post that the shoes p;ivot against.  It's press
fit; it should have no movement.  If it moves, the brakes will not really8
be in adjustment.  You can weld them in place.  Make sure the ring groove is
parellel to the backing plate.  If they don't adjust properly, inspect the
drums for being oversized.  The nominal size is 10"; allowable wear isonly
1/16".  You should prabably also take a look at the adjusters.  IF they're
worn, they can be replaced.

-- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

--__--__--

Message: 12
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 16:40:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Schramm <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Cc: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] bleeding brakes
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Chris-- what a pain they are, I've had the same
experience with my '71 iia.  Try a few things -- 1st,
bench bleed the MC (loosen the lines and let fluid run
through it).  Also, have you adjusted the brakes
(snail gear on each wheel).  Lastly, lift the front
end as high as possible when bleeding.

You may have tried these already, good luck
Chris
71 IIa,
99 DII
Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger
http://im.yahoo.com

--__--__--

Message: 13
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Buying a Series (was ex-MOD)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 19:57:42 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Just thought I would mention the Unimog has a non-stock 2.8L engine with
oversize tires, giving it a better top speed.

> BTW, I came home from the birthday party in convoy with a SI and a Unimog.
> They were able to keep up a decent speed on the highway.
>
> Keith Tanner
> ------------

J-L

--__--__--

Message: 14
From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 20:45:17 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] Buying a Series (was ex-MOD)
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 9/3/01 7:49:32 PM, [email-masked] writes:

>Just thought I would mention the Unimog has a non-stock 2.8L engine with
>
>oversize tires, giving it a better top speed.

standard top speed on a unimog is 59 mph, you can but "highway gears" for the 
axles that increase top speed, and also a turbo add on to the engine seems 
quite popular.

adam

--__--__--

Message: 15
Subject: Re: [lro] bleeding brakes
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 21:38:42 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Re: Bleedin' awful brakes:

I've been following this discussion and I'm surprised that no one has made
the most basic suggestion - clamp off the 3 flex-hoses and see how the
pedal feels.

if it is as hard as a rock, then release the clamps one at a time and see
which wheelset is giving you hemmorrhoids....

This is my tried-and-true trick for brake difficulties - it lets you pin
down the problem to a specific section.

Also, when bleeding the system clamping off sections can help you with
difficult things like 109 fronts - this way you can put the full benefit of
the master behind one section.

                    ajr

--__--__--

Message: 16
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 21:43:23 -0400
From: Winn Bearden <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] 200 tdi is AWESOME!
Reply-To: [email-masked]

    A couple of days ago, Bill R. mentioned that he would like to look into
getting a 200 or 300 Tdi for his 109.  I kind of spoke, well, a liitle
negatively about going the diesel route in the U.S.  The reason for this is
that I had just bought a 110 w/ a 200 Tdi and although the performance was
better than a 2.25, I wasn't that impressed.
    Several folks told me that the 200 should be more peppier than I
described, so I pulled the injectors and took them to Shiver Diesel (in
Tifton, GA about a mile from Dixie Land Rovers) to get cleaned.  I was told
that the tips were bad and that new injectors would actually be cheaper than
replacing the tips.  I said O.K., and two days later I had new injectors.  Put
them in, and.......... it ran like sh*t.  Checked EVERYTHING,  found nothing
wrong, and could barely drive it up on the trailer in low range!  Took it to
Shiver,  came back in three days and WOW!!!  I can't believe it, and the guys
at Shiver can't believe it's just a 2.5 liter. I don't know exactly what they
did to the injection pump , but this little engine is amazing!  The torque can
be felt in the seat of your pants at barely above idle, and stays throughout
the RPM range. In first low you could idle up a tree if you could get the
traction.    No turbo lag.  It attains cruising speed very quickly, in fact I
caught myself going 55 MPH in fourth several times forgetting to shift into
fifth!
    I'm I sold believer in this engine.  If you get a chance to get one, do
it.  I'd trade my souped-up V8 in the hybrid for one in a heartbeat.
--
Winn Bearden          19XX SIIa/SIII/RR 100" Hybrid
P.O. Box 464          1967 NADA 109" SW (in pieces)
Americus, GA 31709    1996 4.0 SE

--__--__--

Message: 17
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 20:09:51 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: "C. Marin Faure" <[email-masked]>
Cc: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Buying a Series
Reply-To: [email-masked]

From: "Perrone Ford" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Buying a Series (was ex-MOD)
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 12:52:23 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>I am under my RR 2-3 times a month. I don't think a series or
a Unimog would be any different and that's ok since I enjoy it.  But the
prices of most series components seems to be half or less, particularly if
ordering from the UK.

Series parts (and Range Rover parts for that matter) can be considerably
less expensive in the UK, and there are plenty of parts houses over there
that specialize in Land Rover parts and shipping to all corners of the
world.  But as one who has bought a number of items for both my Series III
and Range Rover from the UK over the years, I can tell you that shipping
costs can be staggering.  In some cases, where I bought some custom
suspension bushings from a small shop in the UK for the Range Rover for
example, the cost of shipping- surface shipping by slow boat- exceeded the
cost of the parts themselves by almost 100 percent.  It works the other
way, too.  We've sent magazines to our friends in the UK, again via surface
mail- and the cost has been incredibly high.  I don't know why mail/cargo
is so expensive between the US and the UK, but it is.

if you are ording parts in bulk, as I assume Rovers North does, the
shipping costs may not be as big a consideration.  But you can't
automatically assume that because a particular part is obtainable in the UK
for an impressive amount less than it is in the US that you will actually
realize that savings by the time the folks with the boat that's going to
carry it to you get finished.  And if you want it fast by air, the shipping
cost gets really impressive.

I have found that for the most part, buying parts from Rovers North is less
expensive in the long run that bringing them in from the UK, even though
the parts themselves are less expensive over there.  I do order things from
the UK, mostly custom parts or accessories that simply aren't available
over here.  And I have on occasion had friends in the UK with access to
Rover parts send me odds and ends.  But even then, the shipping costs are
not something to sneeze at.

But you are correct about the cost of Range Rover parts.  One of the
catalytic converters on our '91 recently began rattling when the car is
idling (it might rattle at speed, but if it does, we can't here it).  It's
annoying, and we sound a bit Ma & Pa Kettle when we go through a
drive-thru.  But the replacement, which includes both catalytic converters
plus the Y-pipes up to the exhaust manifolds, is $1,500 dollars.  You can't
just replace the one converter unless you remove everything, have it cut
out and a new one welded in, and then you've got to get the right size
converter to fit in the funny space Rover provided for it.  By the time you
factor in your time to take the thing off, the shop's time, the cost of the
converter, and the time to put it back on, it will equal or exceed the cost
of the factory unit.  So we've decided to live with the rattle for awhile
longer.  The exhaust system for a Series is, for the moment at least, a lot
cheaper.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

--__--__--

Message: 18
From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 23:14:32 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] Buying a Series
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 9/3/01 11:11:32 PM, [email-masked] writes:

>t's
>annoying, and we sound a bit Ma & Pa Kettle when we go through a
>drive-thru.  But the replacement, which includes both catalytic converters
>plus the Y-pipes up to the exhaust manifolds, is $1,500 dollars

take off the cat, dump it out, break out remaining crap inside.  hey, if its 
broken already, why not break it more, see if it passes emissions, then leave 
it that way! and if it doesnt pass, you had to replace it anyways!

adam

--__--__--

Message: 19
From: "Perrone Ford" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Buying a Series
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 23:45:32 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Marin,

	I'm surprised you haven't read my exhaust article on the Spanish Trail
page.  I've replaced both cats and added a muffler for less than $275.  Both
cats are smaller than the LR genuine parts and seem to flow better.  Check
out the article, as it gives parts numbers and sources for all parts.

-Perrone

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf
> Of C. Marin Faure
> Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 11:10 PM
> To: [email-masked]
> Cc: [email-masked]
> Subject: [lro] Buying a Series
>
>
>
> From: "Perrone Ford" <[email-masked]>
> To: <[email-masked]>
> Subject: RE: [lro] Buying a Series (was ex-MOD)
> Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 12:52:23 -0400
> Reply-To: [email-masked]

> But you are correct about the cost of Range Rover parts.  One of the
> catalytic converters on our '91 recently began rattling when the car is
> idling (it might rattle at speed, but if it does, we can't here it).  It's
> annoying, and we sound a bit Ma & Pa Kettle when we go through a
> drive-thru.  But the replacement, which includes both catalytic converters
> plus the Y-pipes up to the exhaust manifolds, is $1,500 dollars.
> You can't
> just replace the one converter unless you remove everything, have it cut
> out and a new one welded in, and then you've got to get the right size
> converter to fit in the funny space Rover provided for it.  By
> the time you
> factor in your time to take the thing off, the shop's time, the
> cost of the
> converter, and the time to put it back on, it will equal or
> exceed the cost
> of the factory unit.  So we've decided to live with the rattle for awhile
> longer.  The exhaust system for a Series is, for the moment at
> least, a lot
> cheaper.

--__--__--

Message: 20
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] 200 vs 300
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 18:03:06 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

whats the difference between the 200 and 300?  Is it CU? or electronics or
both?
Is the 200 just a TDI version of the 2.5 diesel or a whole new block?

Pete

--__--__--

Message: 21
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Buying a Series
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 18:12:42 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>  Both
> cats are smaller than the LR genuine parts and seem to flow better.
There are some performance cats on the market.  Better flow, and meet all
the emmisions requirements.

FYI knocking out the center or in anyway tampering with a cat is a fed
offense :-)

Pete

--__--__--

Message: 22
To: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 23:25:20 -0600
Subject: Re: [lro] 200 vs 300
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

To the best of my understanding, the 200tdi is based on the 2.5 block,
and the 300tdi is a ground-up engine design.   I asked the subject matter
expert w/ whom I was talking what the diffo. was and he said, "about 15
hp."  And he LOVES his 300 tdi's (has one in a 90 and one in a 100).

Soooo, the 200tdi, being based on the 2.5, does match up w/ the series
gearbox, tho' I think you have to ream out the metric holes or something
like that.  Maybe ream out the bellhousing holes to mate up w/ the metric
studs on the engine?

bill

On Mon, 3 Sep 2001 18:03:06 -1000 "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
writes:
> 
> whats the difference between the 200 and 300?  Is it CU? or 
> electronics or
> both?
> Is the 200 just a TDI version of the 2.5 diesel or a whole new 
> block?
> 
> Pete
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 23
To: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 23:35:36 -0600
Subject: Re: [lro] 200 tdi is AWESOME!
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Well, well, well.  Now you've got me thinking again.  I got some feedback
from someone on the list who had a 200tdi in a 110 and he said that I'd
have to move the breakfast and radiator forward to get it and its
intercooler in the engine bay of my 109.  

Can anyone confirm this?  Charlie Haigh made it sound much more like an
easy conversion when I talked w/ him about doing it.

Perhaps something could be done w/ a pusher electric fan that'd give me
enough room for that engine in the short series bay.  I guess I need to
look at one in a 110 and see how much room there is up front.  Winn, can
you measure it and see how it'd fit in your 109's engine bay?

It sure seems like you ought to be able to shoehorn any 4-cyl into a
Series bay w/o going so far as to move the breakfast and get a defender
bonnet. . .

bill

On Mon, 03 Sep 2001 21:43:23 -0400 Winn Bearden <[email-masked]>
writes:
> 
>     A couple of days ago, Bill R. mentioned that he would like to 
> look into
> getting a 200 or 300 Tdi for his 109.  

--__--__--

Message: 24
From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 02:26:35 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] parabolics sag`
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I would like to know as well . . .
Is stock the way to go?
Scott

> 
> >They sag to the point where you wish you had your $600 back
> 
> And is this personal experience - and how hard were you working the truck
> for how long before it?
> 
> I'm seriously interested.
> 
>                aj"Been thinking of them for Miss Jess..."r

--__--__--

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