Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #69 - 41 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 01:11:04 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Gas Mileage? (John Cranfield)
   2. Re: Sacrifices to the lord of darkness... (John Cranfield)
   3. Re: Sacrifices to the lord of darkness... (Par Leijonhufvud)
   4. Re: Gas Mileage? (Keith Tanner)
   5. Re: Sacrifices to the lord of darkness... (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
   6. Re: Sacrifices to the lord of darkness... (David Scheidt)
   7. ARB compressor Location (Chris Schramm)
   8. Re: A question on Swivels (Faure, Marin)
   9. Re: fabricator in Los Angeles area (N Forbes)
  10. Zenith 36IV (was gas mileage) (Faure, Marin)
  11. Re: Gas Mileage? (Hope Peter)
  12. Re: fabricator in Los Angeles area (Hope Peter)
  13. Re: One more time (Frank Elson)
  14. Re: Seats? (Frank Elson)
  15. Re: moving, was fabricator in Los Angeles area (Rich Williams II)
  16. SV: [lro] Seats? (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mattias_Bostr=F6m?=)
  17. leaf springs (girasoli)
  18. Re: Seats? (Phil Norris)
  19. RE: leaf springs (Keith Elliott)
  20. Re: leaf springs (Bryan Hoult)
  21. Re: leaf springs (N Forbes)
  22. Re: Seats? (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  23. Re: Gas Mileage and tracedges. (Peter Ogilvie)
  24. Re: Gas Mileage and tracedges. (Hope Peter)
  25. Re: Seats? (Frank Elson)
  26. Re: Zenith 36IV (was gas mileage) (Peter Ogilvie)
  27. Re: Seats? (jos de vries)
  28. Re: Re: A question on Swivels (Peter Ogilvie)
  29. Re: Gas Mileage and tracedges. (Bryan Hoult)
  30. Re: Gas Mileage and tracedges. (Rolston)
  31. Re: Gas Mileage and tracedges. (Jeff Bieler)
  32. Re: leaf springs (Jean-Leon Morin)
  33. RE: Gas Mileage and tracedges. (Perrone Ford)
  34. Seized Kickdown Cable Update (Carl Kinkade)
  35. RE: Gas Mileage and tracedges. (Peter Ogilvie)
  36. Re: Gas Mileage and tracedges. (Jeff Bieler)
  37. Red SIII 88" in Sudbury MA ([email-masked])
  38. GPS and Land Rovers (Rick Grant)
  39. RE: GPS and Land Rovers (Perrone Ford)
  40. RE: GPS and Land Rovers (Rick Grant)
  41. Re: leaf springs (girasoli)

--__--__--

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 09:27:06 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Gas Mileage?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Rick Grant wrote:

> "If you get upset, emotional, or angry you are not dealing with the emergency'

                                         Rick Grant

On the othe hand "if you are calm when all around you are panicing.....
you obviously haven't seen the problem yet"
John and Muddy

--__--__--

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 09:29:36 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Sacrifices to the lord of darkness...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Get a new harness. You will be glad you did...... after the installation
is finished
John and Muddy

Par Leijonhufvud wrote:
> 
> Anyone who have any serious advice regarding the electrics in SIIIs?
> 
> Yesterday I replaced the horn/flasher/hi-lo stick since it was working
> it's way from slightly wonky towards useless[1]. Everything works,
> except the front flashers, after some cussing I find the fault (ground,
> big surprise).
> 
> After tracing things in the partial rats nest of wiring (original,
> random colored replacements, all kinds of connectors know to man,
> including "twist and wrap some tape around it", I would really want to
> do it all over, correctly. Am I insane? More than  using a 30 year old
> truck as more or less daily driver (bicycle to work, but when I need a
> car the 109 is it) already implies?
> 
> Which is best, buing a complete wiring harness and spending X hours
> putting it in, or buying a metric buttload of wire and doing it myself?
> 
> Or should I just fix it as the faults pop up? Is there anything minor
> that is worthwile doing[2]?
> 
> /Par
> 
> [1] First it took away the horn, but it's a year until the annual test,
> and I don't use it much anyway. Then it took away the low beams...
> 
> [2] Such as replacing the patch-on-patch-on-patch crap that passes for
> wiring for the front lights and horn. Any advice on what kind of
> connectors would do nicely instead?
> 
> --
> Par Leijonhufvud                                      [email-masked]
> Two identifying characteristics of System Administrators:
> Infallibility, and the ability to learn from their mistakes.
>                 -- Adapted from Stephen Pinker
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 3
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 15:32:33 +0200
From: Par Leijonhufvud <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Sacrifices to the lord of darkness...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

John Cranfield <[email-masked]> [2001.08.29] wrote:
> 
> Get a new harness. You will be glad you did...... after the installation
> is finished

Any guess about how much time it takes? A day? A weekend? A week? Any
gotchas I should think about before I start?

/Par

-- 
Par Leijonhufvud                                      [email-masked]
There's only one way to get away from lusers.  Someone has to die. 
Unfortunately, there's more of them than us.  
		-- Siggi the Underpaid in ASR 

--__--__--

Message: 4
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 07:21:43 -0600
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Gas Mileage?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

As a side note - Basil, running 235/85-16 tires, has an almost perfectly 
accurate speedometer according to my GPS. The Miata, on the other hand, is 
10% optimistic.

Keith

--__--__--

Message: 5
Subject: Re: [lro] Sacrifices to the lord of darkness...
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 10:00:11 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

If installing a new harness takes you more than a weekend you're drinking
too much.....or not enough.

Make sure you get the ancilliary harnesses too - the one that runs from the
main harness to the rear, and the one that runs across the front of the
vehicle. Might want to get new headlight buckets while you're at it -
depending on how bad/rusty/nonadjustable your old ones and their wiring is.

One handy home hint - get a tube of Lubriplate or light lithium grease and
coat the Lucar connectors as you assemble them - especially if they are in
exposed locations. The lithium grease won't mess up conductivity but will
keep the O2 away and cut the corrosion. There are products made for this
use, but I tend to keep Lubriplate around the shop and it's handy.

               Alan

--__--__--

Message: 6
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 09:15:35 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: Par Leijonhufvud <[email-masked]>
Cc: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Sacrifices to the lord of darkness...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Wed, 29 Aug 2001, Par Leijonhufvud wrote:

:
:John Cranfield <[email-masked]> [2001.08.29] wrote:
:>
:> Get a new harness. You will be glad you did...... after the installation
:> is finished
:
:Any guess about how much time it takes? A day? A weekend? A week? Any

Yes.  Any of those.  Depends on how fast you work, etc.

:gotchas I should think about before I start?
:

Consider why the wiring is messed up.  A fire?  A axe-weilding maniac?  A PO
who just like replacing things with bits of lamp cord?  If it's mostly
okay, I'd consider doing it piecemeal, one circuit at a time, and doing
things like using relays, which Rover seems to have believed were
cancer-causing.  If it's really awful, a whole harness makes since.  Make
sure you have the wiring diagram for your truck before you start.  Make sure
you have suitable quanities of little bits, like wire ties, tape, beer, and
connectors (you may find that you've got bits on the truck that are supposed
ot have spade terminals that have rings, or vice versa).  Having to go get
more of something is a big time waster.

-- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

--__--__--

Message: 7
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 07:51:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Schramm <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Cc: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] ARB compressor Location
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Bill, I've replaced my oil bath with a K and N, and
mounted the compressor on the oil bath plate.  It's
bolted soundly to the plate, provides easy access
under the hood, and has worked very well.  The other
option is under the seat.

Chris Schramm,
'71 IIa
'99 DII
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/

--__--__--

Message: 8
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 08:52:49 -0700
Subject: [lro] Re: A question on Swivels
Reply-To: [email-masked]

From: "Martin Rothman" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: A question on Swivels
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 12:26:53 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>>Here's the deal.  The upper swivel bushings depend on splash
>lubrication from the lube oil in the swivel balls (this is why grease 
>doesn't work very well- it doesn't splash, and it doesn't seep into the 
>bushing like lube oil does).  The only way to
>splash the oil around in the swivel balls is to spin the U-joint
>that's in there.

>So what if you have Railco Bushes and free wheeling hubs installed?  Do the

Railco bushes need the same lubrication?

I'm not familiar with the Railco bushing, so I can't give you a definitive
answer.  However, 
unless the Railcos are "lubed for life" sort of things (which usually means
lubed for the 
life of the bushing, which means nothing), I would assume if there are two
pieces of 
material moving against each other, be they bushing halves, ball bearings,
or whatever, 
they need lubrication.  So I would expect they would need the same degree of
lubrication 
as the standard swivel bushing.  I've never known a bearing or bushing that
didn't benefit 
from lubrication unless they were made of a material that oil or grease
breaks down, so 
I can't imagine splashing oil around inside a swivel housing fitted with
Railcos is going to 
hurt anything.  But don't take my word for it because I've never seen or 
used Railco bushings.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

--__--__--

Message: 9
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] fabricator in Los Angeles area
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 16:17:30 +0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Government won't ship "building materials" so my 5 milk greats of >metal 
>bits and my metal storage rack will be going to the local rover >guys.  If 
>I

Pete, don't you mean your boxes of books? You need to chat with Bill.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
--author unknown

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 10
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 09:28:36 -0700
Subject: [lro] Zenith 36IV (was gas mileage)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Gas Mileage?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>I think most of my problems lie with the Solex.  I just recently replaced all
the gaskets and seals on it, yet its starting to dribble again already.
Eventually, I know a replacement will work its way onto the engine, but other
projects occupy my time and wallet.

While the Zenith 36IV certainly has its design and manufacturing problems, 
it's actually a pretty good carburetor for the 2.25 engine.  From what I read 
on this list, the experience of other Land Rover owners I've known over the 
years, and my own experience running a different carburetor for a while, the 
Zenith is the most fuel-efficient of the lot.  I have always gotten 14-15 mpg 
around town, and up to 20-21 mpg on the highway.  This has always been 
with 7.00 X 15 tires, by the way, which are not particularly tall tires.

While it's definitely possible to get a modicum of performance increase 
by going to another carburetor ("performance increases" on a Series 
Land Rover seems to me to be the equivalent of putting lightweight 
racing horseshoes on the feet of a Galapagos land tortoise- they 
help but not enough to make a practical difference), I get the 
impression from what I read on this list that a lot of 
people who swap carburetors end up 
having a lot of ongoing problems.  I'm not going to claim that the 
Zenith is the ideal carburetor for the 2.25 engine, but other than the 
warping problem, which can be a real big annoyance I agree, the 
36IV is virtually trouble and maintenance free.  The construction is 
incredibly crude, although the Rochester Model B is even more crude, 
and the physical design has at least one major flaw in terms of the number 
and position of connecting bolts.  But if it doesn't warp, it's an efficient, 
trouble-free device well suited for a low-performance, low-revving, low-power 
utility engine like the 2.25.

I've not had any experience with a Solex carburetor as fitted to a Land Rover.  
Perhaps the engines that used Solexes as original equipment can benefit from 
a carburetor swap, as perhaps the Solex is not as basic and trouble-free as 
the Zenith.  I have had cars with Solex carburetors in the past, and while I never 
owned any of them long enough to determine the reliability of the carburetor over 
time, I do recall they required more fussing with than I thought one should have 
to do with something as basic as a carburetor.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

--__--__--

Message: 11
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Gas Mileage?
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 07:06:30 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Your tires are larger than 32", I believe.  You are probably running a 15"
> speedometer.

Nope, the speedo went out about 6 weeks back.  I am only using the GPS now
for odemeter and speed.
I filled up yesterday and reset the GPS trip odometer.  I am making sure to
have the GPS on and tracking when ever I am in the vehicle but not other
wise.  Will fill up again this weekend and check.  Really think I am olnly
getting 10-11mpg.
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 12
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] fabricator in Los Angeles area
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 07:39:08 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> >Government won't ship "building materials" so my 5 milk greats of >metal
> >bits and my metal storage rack will be going to the local rover >guys.
If
> >I
>
> Pete, don't you mean your boxes of books? You need to chat with Bill.
>

Yes some of the more interesting pieces will be boxed up properly.  These
include duece-and-a-half recovery points and shackles, 5-ton wrecker boom
mounts, and other interesting bits and pieces from Army shop scrap bins.
But my scrap bins are mostly just that, 3-12" pieces of plate, angle, and
tubing left over from other projects.  I also have 10' sections of 2x2x3/16
and 2.5x2.5x3/16 left over from building reciever hitches and recovery
points.  As well as about 80' of 2" dia quarter wall tubing from the
rollcage ...aaahem...heavy duty soft top hoops sets I have been building.
Tempo at work has picked up and I have not been able to finsih up the last
of them I had wanted to build.  Also have a 5'x4' piece of 16gauge
galvinized and three 2'x3'x1/4 plate I picked up from the scrap bin at my
Guard Armoury.

This weekend I am going to take the pile of 2x4's and plywood (garage
shelves) and build some 'shipping crates' that I can pack a bunch of the
scap in.  Big issue is weight.  I have over 30 book boxes full of books that
are work related, air compressor, 20ton shop press, 12 ton tubing bender,
drill press, welding bench, anvil, 2 vises, 2 electric welders, 5' tall tool
chest, 4 2x2x3 crates full of rover parts, gun safe, and 5 duffel bags of GI
Joe stuff in the garage.  We only have a 16k moving allowance.  Oh and SWMBO
has a house full of furniture and house hold items that she seems to think
are more important to ship then my 'building supplies'.
hahahahahaha

Pete

--__--__--

Message: 13
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] One more time
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 18:20:30 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Sandy writes:>>>Famous Grouse has an amusing, direct mail marketing program
where
> you receive various 'artifacts' from global expeditions, such as a
> hand-tied fly from the tomb of Tutankamun or Celtic swizzle sticks
> unearthed at Stonhenge.  The marketing department is quite creative.  Not
a
> bad list to be on.<<<

in the UK they have a very good TV advertising series using a 'real' Grouse.
The Grouse flies very quickly across the screen ; 'A quick One'
or there's a very small Grouse: 'A small one'
a Grouse standing on some rocks, bet you can't guess that one...

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

--__--__--

Message: 14
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Seats?
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 18:26:23 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

racing seats wear very quickly on the 'outside' edge 'cos you have to scrape
over them getting in...
 Volvo 240 (the former DAF) seats fit and look good
cloth standards have always been fine with me, depends on your height and
shape tho.
 If you can find some Ninety/110 County seats they seem to be the best of
the 'real' ones.
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

----- Original Message -----
From: Par Leijonhufvud <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 6:55 AM
Subject: [lro] Seats?

>
> I'm thinking about replacing then seats that currently reside in the
> SII. Best guess is that they are from an old WV, and they are not really
> properly attached. The original "frames" are gone, naturally. I can see
> three alterantives
>
> 1. Get "original high back" or something along that line.
> 2. Buy Volvo or Saab seats in the junkyard.
> 3. Racing seats.
>
> Naturally the junk yard alterantive is cheapest, but the -- supposedly?
> -- higher level of protection that a racing seat will give is tempting.
> How uncomfortable/inconvenient are they for normal driving?
>
> Then we have the whole issue of how to attach whatever seats I get
> properly...
>
> /Par
>
> --
> Par Leijonhufvud                                      [email-masked]
> This e-mail is confidential and solely for the use of the intended
> recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, you are obligated to
> kill yourself and others who might have seen it immediately. Thank you.
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 15
From: "Rich Williams II" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] moving, was fabricator in Los Angeles area
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 11:26:40 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

A brief story about moving heavy stuff.

When I left Colorado and moved back to Seattle I rented a 15' Ryder truck.
I never had much in the way of personal belongings so I didn't think I
needed that much of a moving truck, and besides, that was the smallest truck
they had available for the haul I was making out west.  I was also planning
on trailering my To#ota p/u behind the  truck, which could carry a few
things if I needed the extra space.

So move ahead to packing the truck...I had backed the truck up to my
apartment steps, extended the little ramp and spent the day packing up my
things and loading the van.  A bed, some household junk, a TV, a few
computers and monitors, some clothes, a huge pile of climbing gear - 20
years of accumulation, and books.

Now I realized that I had a lot of books.  After nearly a decade in physics
and then astrophysics, one tends to accumulate a few books.  And I never did
get rid of my books back then.  But when the loading was all said and done
with I went to move the truck and noticed it's steering was a bit strange.
I looked at the front end and the two tires were canted way inwards.  I knew
less about vehicles then I do now (which isn't saying much) so I called the
rental agency just as they were closing and said they had a bad truck.  I
BARELY managed to drive the thing back over to where they had a truck scale
only to find that I was 1.8 TONS over the limit of the truck.  3,600 pounds!
And the truck wasn't crammed to the top or anything close.

It was obvious that I couldn't make the drive out west like that so the old
guy at the Ryder shop must have felt some pity towards me as he gave me a
brand new 25-30 foot truck that could handle the heavy load.  I backed the
two trucks up against each other and spent the next few hours transferring
the load from one truck to the other.  By about 1 AM I was ready to sack out
for a few hours rest before heading out the next morning at sun up.

Within a month of unpacking in Seattle I had a garage sale.  Made $700 bucks
in a matter of hours and lightened the load!

Lets just hope I don't have to move for a while.  The pile of rover stuff
seems to grow by the day.

Rich
'60 SII 109SW

--- Original Message -----
From: Hope Peter <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 10:39 AM
Subject: Re: [lro] fabricator in Los Angeles area

> >Government won't ship "building materials" so my 5 milk greats of >metal
> >bits and my metal storage rack will be going to the local rover >guys.
If
> >I
>
> Pete, don't you mean your boxes of books? You need to chat with Bill.
>

Yes some of the more interesting pieces will be boxed up properly.  These
include duece-and-a-half recovery points and shackles, 5-ton wrecker boom
mounts, and other interesting bits and pieces from Army shop scrap bins.
But my scrap bins are mostly just that, 3-12" pieces of plate, angle, and
tubing left over from other projects.  I also have 10' sections of 2x2x3/16
and 2.5x2.5x3/16 left over from building reciever hitches and recovery
points.  As well as about 80' of 2" dia quarter wall tubing from the
rollcage ...aaahem...heavy duty soft top hoops sets I have been building.
Tempo at work has picked up and I have not been able to finsih up the last
of them I had wanted to build.  Also have a 5'x4' piece of 16gauge
galvinized and three 2'x3'x1/4 plate I picked up from the scrap bin at my
Guard Armoury.

This weekend I am going to take the pile of 2x4's and plywood (garage
shelves) and build some 'shipping crates' that I can pack a bunch of the
scap in.  Big issue is weight.  I have over 30 book boxes full of books that
are work related, air compressor, 20ton shop press, 12 ton tubing bender,
drill press, welding bench, anvil, 2 vises, 2 electric welders, 5' tall tool
chest, 4 2x2x3 crates full of rover parts, gun safe, and 5 duffel bags of GI
Joe stuff in the garage.  We only have a 16k moving allowance.  Oh and SWMBO
has a house full of furniture and house hold items that she seems to think
are more important to ship then my 'building supplies'.
hahahahahaha

Pete
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 16
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mattias_Bostr=F6m?= <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: SV: [lro] Seats?
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 20:38:02 +0200
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Well the VOLVO 240 was no DAF at any time, I think you are refering to the
340 that was the reason VOLVO bought the car division of DAF.

Best Regards
Mattias Bostrom
S.L.R.K #1329
Land Rover 90" -98 Tdi CSW
BMW 528i Touring
home page: http://user.tninet.se/~vwu213j
e-mail: [email-masked]

-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Fren: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]Fvr Frank
Elson
Skickat: den 29 augusti 2001 19:26
Till: [email-masked]
Dmne: Re: [lro] Seats?

racing seats wear very quickly on the 'outside' edge 'cos you have to scrape
over them getting in...
 Volvo 240 (the former DAF) seats fit and look good
cloth standards have always been fine with me, depends on your height and
shape tho.
 If you can find some Ninety/110 County seats they seem to be the best of
the 'real' ones.
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

----- Original Message -----
From: Par Leijonhufvud <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 6:55 AM
Subject: [lro] Seats?

>
> I'm thinking about replacing then seats that currently reside in the
> SII. Best guess is that they are from an old WV, and they are not really
> properly attached. The original "frames" are gone, naturally. I can see
> three alterantives
>
> 1. Get "original high back" or something along that line.
> 2. Buy Volvo or Saab seats in the junkyard.
> 3. Racing seats.
>
> Naturally the junk yard alterantive is cheapest, but the -- supposedly?
> -- higher level of protection that a racing seat will give is tempting.
> How uncomfortable/inconvenient are they for normal driving?
>
> Then we have the whole issue of how to attach whatever seats I get
> properly...
>
> /Par
>
> --
> Par Leijonhufvud                                      [email-masked]
> This e-mail is confidential and solely for the use of the intended
> recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, you are obligated to
> kill yourself and others who might have seen it immediately. Thank you.
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 17
From: "girasoli" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 14:38:50 -0400
Subject: [lro] leaf springs
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Afternoon, all...

I'm new to the list as of today. I have the opportunity to buy a '67 Series
IIa. However, it has a rusty frame as well as leaf springs. Are leaf springs
hard to come by? I've been talking to another Series IIa owner (Niall, you out
there?) who's given me some helpful advice. What company offers these springs?
Are they expensive?

My knowledge of rovers is practically nil, I'm new to the whole thing. Any
advice you have is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

brian

--__--__--

Message: 18
From: "Phil Norris" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Seats?
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 19:52:49 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Now you've thrown me....  I thought the ex-daf was the 3-40, the hatchack
one w the rear axle gearbox....  The 240 is the big boxy jobby famed in
estate mode w a labrador and tartan blanket.....
Which is which??
Phil

-----Original Message-----
From: Frank Elson <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
Date: 29 August 2001 19:28
Subject: Re: [lro] Seats?

>
>racing seats wear very quickly on the 'outside' edge 'cos you have to
scrape
>over them getting in...
> Volvo 240 (the former DAF) seats fit and look good
>cloth standards have always been fine with me, depends on your height and
>shape tho.
> If you can find some Ninety/110 County seats they seem to be the best of
>the 'real' ones.
>Best Cheers
>
>Frank
>    +--+--+--+
>     I !__|  [_]|_\___
>     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
>     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Par Leijonhufvud <[email-masked]>
>To: <[email-masked]>
>Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 6:55 AM
>Subject: [lro] Seats?
>
>
>>
>> I'm thinking about replacing then seats that currently reside in the
>> SII. Best guess is that they are from an old WV, and they are not really
>> properly attached. The original "frames" are gone, naturally. I can see
>> three alterantives
>>
>> 1. Get "original high back" or something along that line.
>> 2. Buy Volvo or Saab seats in the junkyard.
>> 3. Racing seats.
>>
>> Naturally the junk yard alterantive is cheapest, but the -- supposedly?
>> -- higher level of protection that a racing seat will give is tempting.
>> How uncomfortable/inconvenient are they for normal driving?
>>
>> Then we have the whole issue of how to attach whatever seats I get
>> properly...
>>
>> /Par
>>
>> --
>> Par Leijonhufvud                                      [email-masked]
>> This e-mail is confidential and solely for the use of the intended
>> recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, you are obligated to
>> kill yourself and others who might have seen it immediately. Thank you.
>> _______________________________________________
>> LRO mailing list
>> [email-masked]
>> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 19
From: Keith Elliott <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] leaf springs
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 14:54:31 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi Brian...

    Do your back a favor and buy parabolics for the LR. Makes all the
difference in the world. There are a few 
suppliers for them like Rocky Mountain and Atlantic British.

Keith

-----Original Message-----
From: girasoli [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 2:39 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] leaf springs

Afternoon, all...

I'm new to the list as of today. I have the opportunity to buy a '67 Series
IIa. However, it has a rusty frame as well as leaf springs. Are leaf springs
hard to come by? I've been talking to another Series IIa owner (Niall, you
out
there?) who's given me some helpful advice. What company offers these
springs?
Are they expensive?

My knowledge of rovers is practically nil, I'm new to the whole thing. Any
advice you have is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

brian
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 20
Date: 29 Aug 2001 12:44:55 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] leaf springs
Reply-To: [email-masked]

-rusty frame bad, leaf springs no problem.

Depending on how much the truck costs, rusty frame isn't that much of a problem - they can be switched out in a process fondly known as a "frame-over".  This can coincide with a "spouse-over", so careful planning and good communication is recommended where spouses are applicable.  The springs and frames are available from several sources.  Original equipment springs (Land Rover)for an 88 will run about $600 for a set of 4, and the change in springs should include bushing replacement.  Parabolics (rocky mountain/TI Console)are considered an improvement and cost about the same. A new frame for an 88 (Marslands/Arrow)will cost about $1800 delivered to the US and will require a considerable amount of time to swap out.

Bryan
62 88
70 109 "Genie"

On Wed, 29 August 2001, "girasoli" wrote:

> 
> 
> Afternoon, all...
> 
> I'm new to the list as of today. I have the opportunity to buy a '67 Series
> IIa. However, it has a rusty frame as well as leaf springs. Are leaf springs
> hard to come by? I've been talking to another Series IIa owner (Niall, you out
> there?) who's given me some helpful advice. What company offers these springs?
> Are they expensive?
> 
> My knowledge of rovers is practically nil, I'm new to the whole thing. Any
> advice you have is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
> 
> brian
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

--__--__--

Message: 21
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] leaf springs
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 20:18:15 +0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi Brian.
Great to see you finally got on the list. One thing I forgot to mention is 
that everybody is getting parabolics these days so regular leaf springs seem 
to have come down in price.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
--author unknown

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 22
Subject: Re: [lro] Seats?
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 16:20:32 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Believe Phil's right - the 240 is the 1980s/early 90s of the old 140 - the
Swedish Brick on wheels I loved too many years ago.

Never seen a 340 - didn't think they did them here in the YouEssAy....

                    ajr

--__--__--

Message: 23
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Gas Mileage and tracedges.
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 10:30:30 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

If you solved the flat spot with the carb, its got to be those donuts your 
pushing down the highway.  BTW, have you noticed if they actually perform 
better or worse than the more reasonably shod Rovers you've been playing in 
the mud with.

A previous poster quoted BFG as saying "Get the MT's for mud!"  The tests 
that I have read (2 at least) have said the BFG is mediocre, at best, in 
Mud.  The Bridgetstone MT, Interco's, etc. were much better.  Overall the 
BFG MT is supposed to be a good tire, but not the best in mud.  Wonder if 
that word has filtered up the line at BFG.  Assume the TracEdge's reputation 
is built on its mud ability because of the shoulders.  Has anybody heard why 
they are killing it other than the reality that almost none of Sport Utes 
actually get dirty so really need street tires.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

>From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: <[email-masked]>
>Subject: Re: [lro] Gas Mileage?
>Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 07:06:30 -1000
>
>
> > Your tires are larger than 32", I believe.  You are probably running a 
>15"
> > speedometer.
>
>Nope, the speedo went out about 6 weeks back.  I am only using the GPS now
>for odemeter and speed.
>I filled up yesterday and reset the GPS trip odometer.  I am making sure to
>have the GPS on and tracking when ever I am in the vehicle but not other
>wise.  Will fill up again this weekend and check.  Really think I am olnly
>getting 10-11mpg.
>Pete
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 24
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Gas Mileage and tracedges.
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 10:59:22 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> pushing down the highway.  BTW, have you noticed if they actually perform
> better or worse than the more reasonably shod Rovers you've been playing
in
> the mud with.

It could be the overall height, or width, or tread pattern, or combo of the
three, but yes I spin less in wet stuff.  Also in some of the tree root
rutted mud holes we found this weekend, I was driving up and over all the
roots that others were spinning over.  Only place I got stuck, I was running
lead and got high centered.  The people behind me actually got hung up way
back behind were I was at, and after getting out, bypassed the rest of the
stuff I had been through.
I am planning on getting 33x9.50s when I go to parabolics.  33x12s were the
only thing available when I went shopping.
As to the best mud tire, I agree.  BFG is not the best pure mud tire.  I
believe that the BFG is the longest lasting mud tread how ever.  And think
it does great in the rocks and hardpack.  Don't drive on as much lava as the
guys on the big island, but I have been very happy with them here.  They are
quiet on the road.
If I ever get to the point that the Rover is just my off road toy and not my
daily driver I will switch over to Interco TSLs.  This of course depends on
what the terrain is like in Wash.

Pete

--__--__--

Message: 25
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Seats?
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 22:16:00 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

oh I don't know, it's the early little one...
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

----- Original Message -----
From: Phil Norris <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 7:52 PM
Subject: Re: [lro] Seats?

>
> Now you've thrown me....  I thought the ex-daf was the 3-40, the hatchack
> one w the rear axle gearbox....  The 240 is the big boxy jobby famed in
> estate mode w a labrador and tartan blanket.....
> Which is which??
> Phil
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Frank Elson <[email-masked]>
> To: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
> Date: 29 August 2001 19:28
> Subject: Re: [lro] Seats?
>
>
> >
> >racing seats wear very quickly on the 'outside' edge 'cos you have to
> scrape
> >over them getting in...
> > Volvo 240 (the former DAF) seats fit and look good
> >cloth standards have always been fine with me, depends on your height and
> >shape tho.
> > If you can find some Ninety/110 County seats they seem to be the best of
> >the 'real' ones.
> >Best Cheers
> >
> >Frank
> >    +--+--+--+
> >     I !__|  [_]|_\___
> >     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
> >     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Par Leijonhufvud <[email-masked]>
> >To: <[email-masked]>
> >Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 6:55 AM
> >Subject: [lro] Seats?
> >
> >
> >>
> >> I'm thinking about replacing then seats that currently reside in the
> >> SII. Best guess is that they are from an old WV, and they are not
really
> >> properly attached. The original "frames" are gone, naturally. I can see
> >> three alterantives
> >>
> >> 1. Get "original high back" or something along that line.
> >> 2. Buy Volvo or Saab seats in the junkyard.
> >> 3. Racing seats.
> >>
> >> Naturally the junk yard alterantive is cheapest, but the -- supposedly?
> >> -- higher level of protection that a racing seat will give is tempting.
> >> How uncomfortable/inconvenient are they for normal driving?
> >>
> >> Then we have the whole issue of how to attach whatever seats I get
> >> properly...
> >>
> >> /Par
> >>
> >> --
> >> Par Leijonhufvud                                      [email-masked]
> >> This e-mail is confidential and solely for the use of the intended
> >> recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, you are obligated to
> >> kill yourself and others who might have seen it immediately. Thank you.
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> LRO mailing list
> >> [email-masked]
> >> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> >_______________________________________________
> >LRO mailing list
> >[email-masked]
> >http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 26
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Zenith 36IV (was gas mileage)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 11:26:43 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

All of my trucks came with clapped out Solexes or Zeniths.  Figured 
rebuilding them was like throwing pearls before swine so elected not to 
rebuild or replace.  Instead switched to the 2 barrel Weber and Pearce 
manifold.  The first one in '84, the second in '90 and they have worked 
perfectly on several different 2 1/4s.  Give decent mileage, 15-16 on an 88 
and never a problem off road at some pretty incredible angles.  Because the 
jets are at the bottom of the float bowl, they do need clean fuel but an 
inline filter has eliminated that from being a problem.

Have never driven a Rover without the 32/36 Weber so can't compare 
performance.  Suspect without a cam and/or a milled head you aren't getting 
optimum benefit from the Weber.  Don't really care as they have worked so 
well, couldn't reccomend anything but.  Have just bought my third Weber and 
manifold for the latest resurrection.

Incidentally, if your running smaller diameter tires than the speedo is 
calibrated for, you will get inflated mpg readings and the reverse if tires 
are larger.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

>From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
> >I think most of my problems lie with the Solex.  I just recently replaced 
>all the gaskets and seals on it, yet its starting to dribble again already. 
>  Eventually, I know a replacement will work its way onto the engine, but 
>other projects occupy my time and wallet.
>
>While the Zenith 36IV certainly has its design and manufacturing problems, 
>it's actually a pretty good carburetor for the 2.25 engine.  From what I 
>read on this list, the experience of other Land Rover owners I've known 
>over the years, and my own experience running a different carburetor for a 
>while, the Zenith is the most fuel-efficient of the lot.  I have always 
>gotten 14-15 mpg around town, and up to 20-21 mpg on the highway.  This has 
>always been with 7.00 X 15 tires, by the way, which are not particularly 
>tall tires.
>
>While it's definitely possible to get a modicum of performance increase
>by going to another carburetor ("performance increases" on a Series
>Land Rover seems to me to be the equivalent of putting lightweight
>racing horseshoes on the feet of a Galapagos land tortoise- they
>help but not enough to make a practical difference), I get the
>impression from what I read on this list that a lot of
>people who swap carburetors end up
>having a lot of ongoing problems.  I'm not going to claim that the
>Zenith is the ideal carburetor for the 2.25 engine, but other than the
>warping problem, which can be a real big annoyance I agree, the
>36IV is virtually trouble and maintenance free.  The construction is
>incredibly crude, although the Rochester Model B is even more crude,
>and the physical design has at least one major flaw in terms of the number
>and position of connecting bolts.  But if it doesn't warp, it's an 
>efficient,
>trouble-free device well suited for a low-performance, low-revving, 
>low-power
>utility engine like the 2.25.
>
>I've not had any experience with a Solex carburetor as fitted to a Land 
>Rover.
>Perhaps the engines that used Solexes as original equipment can benefit 
>from
>a carburetor swap, as perhaps the Solex is not as basic and trouble-free as
>the Zenith.  I have had cars with Solex carburetors in the past, and while 
>I never
>owned any of them long enough to determine the reliability of the 
>carburetor over
>time, I do recall they required more fussing with than I thought one should 
>have
>to do with something as basic as a carburetor.
>___________________________
>C. Marin Faure
>   (original owner)
>   1973 Land Rover Series III-88
>   1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
>   Seattle
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

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--__--__--

Message: 27
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 23:42:54 +0200
From: jos de vries <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Seats?
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Daf 60 or the later 66 ,later Volvo badged?

340 never were badged Daf, in Holland anyway

gr JOS

Jos de Vries
Delft, Holland
Land Rover 88 4x2 '75 LPG  'Marieke'

>
> oh I don't know, it's the early little one...
> Best Cheers
>
> Frank
>     +--+--+--+
>      I !__|  [_]|_\___
>      I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
>      "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Phil Norris <[email-masked]>
> To: <[email-masked]>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 7:52 PM
> Subject: Re: [lro] Seats?
>
>
> >
> > Now you've thrown me....  I thought the ex-daf was the 3-40, the
hatchack
> > one w the rear axle gearbox....  The 240 is the big boxy jobby famed in
> > estate mode w a labrador and tartan blanket.....
> > Which is which??
> > Phil
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Frank Elson <[email-masked]>
> > To: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
> > Date: 29 August 2001 19:28
> > Subject: Re: [lro] Seats?
> >
> >
> > >
> > >racing seats wear very quickly on the 'outside' edge 'cos you have to
> > scrape
> > >over them getting in...
> > > Volvo 240 (the former DAF) seats fit and look good
> > >cloth standards have always been fine with me, depends on your height
and
> > >shape tho.
> > > If you can find some Ninety/110 County seats they seem to be the best
of
> > >the 'real' ones.
> > >Best Cheers
> > >
> > >Frank
> > >    +--+--+--+
> > >     I !__|  [_]|_\___
> > >     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
> > >     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: Par Leijonhufvud <[email-masked]>
> > >To: <[email-masked]>
> > >Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 6:55 AM
> > >Subject: [lro] Seats?
> > >
> > >
> > >>
> > >> I'm thinking about replacing then seats that currently reside in the
> > >> SII. Best guess is that they are from an old WV, and they are not
> really
> > >> properly attached. The original "frames" are gone, naturally. I can
see
> > >> three alterantives
> > >>
> > >> 1. Get "original high back" or something along that line.
> > >> 2. Buy Volvo or Saab seats in the junkyard.
> > >> 3. Racing seats.
> > >>
> > >> Naturally the junk yard alterantive is cheapest, but the --
supposedly?
> > >> -- higher level of protection that a racing seat will give is
tempting.
> > >> How uncomfortable/inconvenient are they for normal driving?
> > >>
> > >> Then we have the whole issue of how to attach whatever seats I get
> > >> properly...
> > >>
> > >> /Par
> > >>
> > >> --
> > >> Par Leijonhufvud
[email-masked]
> > >> This e-mail is confidential and solely for the use of the intended
> > >> recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, you are obligated
to
> > >> kill yourself and others who might have seen it immediately. Thank
you.
> > >> _______________________________________________
> > >> LRO mailing list
> > >> [email-masked]
> > >> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> > >_______________________________________________
> > >LRO mailing list
> > >[email-masked]
> > >http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 28
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: A question on Swivels
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 11:45:17 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

FWIW  The bushes and bearings in the front swivels will run for an 
incredibly long time with little more than a few drops of oil mixed with a 
bit more water.

"How do I know", you ask??  I left the fluid changes and checking to my 
local garage for the first 5 years/one set of radials of ownership.  My 
first change of the swivel ball lube produced a little water and even less 
oil, way less than a cup full, total, from the right side.  Obviously the 
garage had never checked or changed the swivel oil so don't know how long it 
ran without lubrication.  17 years after I bought the truck but only 12 
years with proper lubrication, the right swivel bushing needs replacing.  
Its still driveable but there is noticable slop at the top pin.  The left 
side had approximately a cup of oil at the change and is still tight today.

One thing I really love about the Series is you can abuse the s*** out of 
them, either intentionally or through neglect, and they keep on running.

Its the Railco bushes that need the hubs engaged to get lubrication, as long 
as the oil level in swivels is up to snuff.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

>From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
> >>Here's the deal.  The upper swivel bushings depend on splash
> >lubrication from the lube oil in the swivel balls (this is why grease
> >doesn't work very well- it doesn't splash, and it doesn't seep into the 
>bushing like lube oil does).  The only way to splash the oil around in the 
>swivel balls is to spin the U-joint that's in there.

So what if you have Railco Bushes and free wheeling hubs installed?  Do the
>
>Railco bushes need the same lubrication?
>
>I'm not familiar with the Railco bushing, so I can't give you a definitive
>answer.  However,
>unless the Railcos are "lubed for life" sort of things (which usually means
>lubed for the
>life of the bushing, which means nothing), I would assume if there are two
>pieces of
>material moving against each other, be they bushing halves, ball bearings,
>or whatever,
>they need lubrication.  So I would expect they would need the same degree 
>of
>lubrication
>as the standard swivel bushing.  I've never known a bearing or bushing that
>didn't benefit
>from lubrication unless they were made of a material that oil or grease
>breaks down, so
>I can't imagine splashing oil around inside a swivel housing fitted with
>Railcos is going to
>hurt anything.  But don't take my word for it because I've never seen or
>used Railco bushings.
>___________________________
>C. Marin Faure
>   (original owner)
>   1973 Land Rover Series III-88
>   1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
>   Seattle
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 29
Date: 29 Aug 2001 14:51:50 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Gas Mileage and tracedges.
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Wed, 29 August 2001, "Hope Peter" wrote:

> This of course depends on
> what the terrain is like in Wash.

The terrain here in Wash. is incredibly varied.  Most of the mountain trails have alot of loose rock in the summer, where the lowlands have mud and rock.  Lots of roots to go over.  Trac Edges do very well in all but the nastiest stuff, and the MT's don't do much better.  Goodyear MTR's are nice in that niche if cost is of no concern- since they've gone to the 3 ply sidewall.  I plan to try out the Traxxus on my next tire go round for the 88.  No matter what tire you have, it seems that the wet snow on the west side of the cascades - known as cascade concrete - packs the tread so bad that chains are pretty much a must.  The east side is a whole different deal.  Over there we have sand dunes, desert/tundra like areas, shale, mud, you name it.  The snow is dry, so chains aren't so much a must.

There is a movement afoot amongst the "organized" offroad community to avoid bogging as much as possible, because of the implied activity as witnessed by the environmentally minded.  Once a trail is bogged, it gets wider as most trucks try to make it around.  This has been identified as a major offense in public hearings regarding trail closures.  Most of the time in fall/winter/spring you can't avoid bogging, since it's so wet in the western half of the state.  We're driving the trails as usual, but power washing at the earliest opportunity to avoid bringing attention.  The areas that are the best from the standpoint of challenge and views are the most threatened by closure for any perception of misuse - as they are shared with the most other user types.  Unfortunately, motorcyclists are sort of turning on us as an ally.  The rats in a barrel filling with water syndrome, I guess.  All the damage must be our fault, since our vehicles are larger and they don't have room to to!
te in beer and weapons - they may have a point.  But I'd rather people would get behind punishing law breakers and not make decisions based on perception.

I digress.

Bryan
62 88
70 109 "Genie"

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

--__--__--

Message: 30
From: "Rolston" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Gas Mileage and tracedges.
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 18:23:55 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Try interco Truxus tires. Running the 255-85's on our ambulance/camper, and
they beat the Cooper STT's hands down. Very happy with them.  J

--__--__--

Message: 31
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 15:27:48 -0700
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Gas Mileage and tracedges.
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Is the rumor that BFG is discontinuing the TracEdge back up again?  I think someone alluded to that in a previous post.  A few months back, when I was getting tires for the Discovery, I called BFG to ask and they said their were no plans to drop the line.  I wound up going with Dunlop Radial Rovers R/T's, which are essentially equivalent, but I don't think the TracEdge tire is going away.   At least I hope not.

I do want to borrow someone and a GPS one day to see what my actual mileage and odometer readings should be.  When my speedometer reads 65MPH, I am really doing 55MPH.  At least that's what we figured out having my wife drive next to me on the freeway while we talked on the TalkAbouts.  At lower speeds, it's not quite as drastic (reads 42MPH when I am doing 35MPH).  That's a lot more then the % variance I have heard folks get when the put 16" wheels on a truck with a speedometer calibrated for 15" wheels.

Jeff

Bryan Hoult wrote:

> On Wed, 29 August 2001, "Hope Peter" wrote:
>
> > This of course depends on
> > what the terrain is like in Wash.
>
> The terrain here in Wash. is incredibly varied.  Most of the mountain trails have alot of loose rock in the summer, where the lowlands have mud and rock.  Lots of roots to go over.  Trac Edges do very well in all but the nastiest stuff, and the MT's don't do much better.  Goodyear MTR's are nice in that niche if cost is of no concern- since they've gone to the 3 ply sidewall.  I plan to try out the Traxxus on my next tire go round for the 88.  No matter what tire you have, it seems that the wet snow on the west side of the cascades - known as cascade concrete - packs the tread so bad that chains are pretty much a must.  The east side is a whole different deal.  Over there we have sand dunes, desert/tundra like areas, shale, mud, you name it.  The snow is dry, so chains aren't so much a must.
>
> There is a movement afoot amongst the "organized" offroad community to avoid bogging as much as possible, because of the implied activity as witnessed by the environmentally minded.  Once a trail is bogged, it gets wider as most trucks try to make it around.  This has been identified as a major offense in public hearings regarding trail closures.  Most of the time in fall/winter/spring you can't avoid bogging, since it's so wet in the western half of the state.  We're driving the trails as usual, but power washing at the earliest opportunity to avoid bringing attention.  The areas that are the best from the standpoint of challenge and views are the most threatened by closure for any perception of misuse - as they are shared with the most other user types.  Unfortunately, motorcyclists are sort of turning on us as an ally.  The rats in a barrel filling with water syndrome, I guess.  All the damage must be our fault, since our vehicles are larger and they don't have room to !
to!
> te in beer and weapons - they may have a point.  But I'd rather people would get behind punishing law breakers and not make decisions based on perception.
>
> I digress.
>
> Bryan
> 62 88
> 70 109 "Genie"
>
> ________________________________________________
> PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart.
> http://www.peoplepc.com
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 32
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] leaf springs
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 17:59:07 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

----- Original Message -----
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 3:44 PM
Subject: Re: [lro] leaf springs

>
> -rusty frame bad, leaf springs no problem.
>
> Depending on how much the truck costs, rusty frame isn't that much of a
problem - they can be switched out in a process fondly known as a
"frame-over".  This can coincide with a "spouse-over", so careful planning
and good communication is recommended where spouses are applicable.  The
springs and frames are available from several sources.  Original equipment
springs (Land Rover)for an 88 will run about $600 for a set of 4, and the
change in springs should include bushing replacement.  Parabolics (rocky
mountain/TI Console)are considered an improvement and cost about the same. A
new frame for an 88 (Marslands/Arrow)will cost about $1800 delivered to the
US and will require a considerable amount of time to swap out.
>
> Bryan
> 62 88
> 70 109 "Genie"
>
>
>
> On Wed, 29 August 2001, "girasoli" wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Afternoon, all...
> >
> > I'm new to the list as of today. I have the opportunity to buy a '67
Series
> > IIa. However, it has a rusty frame as well as leaf springs. Are leaf
springs
> > hard to come by? I've been talking to another Series IIa owner (Niall,
you out
> > there?) who's given me some helpful advice. What company offers these
springs?
> > Are they expensive?
> >
> > My knowledge of rovers is practically nil, I'm new to the whole thing.
Any
> > advice you have is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
> >
> > brian
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
>
>
> ________________________________________________
> PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart.
> http://www.peoplepc.com
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 33
From: "Perrone Ford" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Gas Mileage and tracedges.
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 19:06:23 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Comments within..

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf
> Of Jeff Bieler
> Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 6:28 PM
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: [lro] Gas Mileage and tracedges.
>
>
>
> Is the rumor that BFG is discontinuing the TracEdge back up
> again?  I think someone alluded to that in a previous post.  A
> few months back, when I was getting tires for the Discovery, I
> called BFG to ask and they said their were no plans to drop the
> line.  I wound up going with Dunlop Radial Rovers R/T's, which
> are essentially equivalent, but I don't think the TracEdge tire
> is going away.   At least I hope not.

This rumor comes up a few times a year.  Right around the time people start
to buy new tires for summer travel, or new tires for winter use.  They
always are around...

>
> I do want to borrow someone and a GPS one day to see what my
> actual mileage and odometer readings should be.  When my
> speedometer reads 65MPH, I am really doing 55MPH.  At least
> that's what we figured out having my wife drive next to me on the
> freeway while we talked on the TalkAbouts.  At lower speeds, it's
> not quite as drastic (reads 42MPH when I am doing 35MPH).  That's
> a lot more then the % variance I have heard folks get when the
> put 16" wheels on a truck with a speedometer calibrated for 15" wheels.

A new Magellan GPS is about $100.  A used one or a Garmin GPSII is around
$70.  Just buy your own!  That way you can enjoy all the benefits all the
time.  The wheel size is immaterial when figuring speedo calibration.
Rolling radius is the only thing that matters.

-P

--__--__--

Message: 34
From: "Carl Kinkade" <[email-masked]>
To: "RRO" <[email-masked]>, "LRO" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 18:31:13 -0500
Subject: [lro] Seized Kickdown Cable Update
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I replaced the 3 week old kickdown cable and cut it apart.  About an inch
and a half section of the inner plastic sleeve was melted down to the cable.
John Cranfield suggested maybe a ground problem caused the seizure, but the
transmission is connected the engine and the kickdown cable goes directly
from the transmission to the throttle on the engine, so I wouldn't think it
would be that.

Any thoughts why I would melt to kickdown cables in 3 weeks?

Carl
'95 RR LWB

--__--__--

Message: 35
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: [lro] Gas Mileage and tracedges.
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 14:12:50 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

FYI  Going to larger diameter tires with a speedo calibrated for smaller 
results in under reading speedo and odometer, otherwise speedo says 35, real 
speed would be 42 or some such error.  Good argument to bring up with the 
policeman when he stops you for doing a 100 in a 25mph zone.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

> > I do want to borrow someone and a GPS one day to see what my
> > actual mileage and odometer readings should be.  When my
> > speedometer reads 65MPH, I am really doing 55MPH.  At least
> > that's what we figured out having my wife drive next to me on the
> > freeway while we talked on the TalkAbouts.  At lower speeds, it's
> > not quite as drastic (reads 42MPH when I am doing 35MPH).  That's
> > a lot more then the % variance I have heard folks get when the
> > put 16" wheels on a truck with a speedometer calibrated for 15" wheels.

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 36
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 19:53:23 -0700
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Gas Mileage and tracedges.
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Opps.  You got me.  I have it bass ackwards.   That makes my speednometer
reading that much more FUBAR.

I'm sure my odometer is off as well.  Once I get it sorted, I can figure out my
real MPG.  Right now, I fill up when I've gone 100 miles per the odometer and
it takes about 9 gallons.  At least I've got that part figured out.  My fuel
guage is accurate.  ;-)

Jeff

Peter Ogilvie wrote:

> FYI  Going to larger diameter tires with a speedo calibrated for smaller
> results in under reading speedo and odometer, otherwise speedo says 35, real
> speed would be 42 or some such error.  Good argument to bring up with the
> policeman when he stops you for doing a 100 in a 25mph zone.
>
> Aloha
> Peter Ogilvie
> Kona Coffee Rover
> 1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
>      from exposure of the dark side.
> 1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
> 1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
> 196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
>      certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust
>
> > > I do want to borrow someone and a GPS one day to see what my
> > > actual mileage and odometer readings should be.  When my
> > > speedometer reads 65MPH, I am really doing 55MPH.  At least
> > > that's what we figured out having my wife drive next to me on the
> > > freeway while we talked on the TalkAbouts.  At lower speeds, it's
> > > not quite as drastic (reads 42MPH when I am doing 35MPH).  That's
> > > a lot more then the % variance I have heard folks get when the
> > > put 16" wheels on a truck with a speedometer calibrated for 15" wheels.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 37
From: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 23:17:08 EDT
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Red SIII 88" in Sudbury MA
Reply-To: [email-masked]

So whos got the red SIII and goes to St. John's High in Sudbury? saw it today 
on my way to class and my eyes popped out of my head. nice truck, remember 
seeing it at roverfest.

adam

--__--__--

Message: 38
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 22:26:02 -0600
To: [email-masked]
From: Rick Grant <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] GPS and Land Rovers
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In the discussion about Gas Mileage I noticed that quite a few people use 
GPS' to track mileage and speed.

There was an announcement today that new North American Discovery's will be 
equipped with GPS antennas and equipment to pinpoint their position, 
presumably on a four lane highway to 1 metre.

I'm just wondering how many Series owners are using GPS' in lieu of 
speedometers considering that you can get a pretty decent unit for about a 
hundred dollars and that must be cheaper and certainly more accurate than a 
new speedometer/odometer.

I use a Garmin GPSII+ for everday use but I hook it to a Psion handheld 
with a moving map display for more involved journeys.  I'll soon be 
upgrading to the Garmin V.

What units and combinations of computer power are people finding useful?

                                             Rick Grant

  				  1959 Series II   "88"
				  VORIZO

Rick Grant Communications
Media and Crisis Management
Calgary Ottawa
www.rickgrant.com

--__--__--

Message: 39
From: "Perrone Ford" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] GPS and Land Rovers
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 00:36:34 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

While I don't have a series, I do use GPS almost to the exclusion of my real
speedo and odo.  Since my GPS is never powered off, it works great for the
job.  In truth, I wouldn't give a dollar for a built-in unit.  Most of them
are crappy and hard to upgrade.  Not to mention insanely expensive.

I have a Garmin GPSIII and a Magellan 315 as a backup.  I have used
StreetAtlas software since version 5, and am now in SA8 and soon to be 9.  I
have a dedicated laptop that runs the software.  I also use TOPOUSA 3
software to tag off-road spots, and for traveling off the paved roads.

I'm almost sorry to hear you say you are upgrading to another unit.  The
GPSII is a great unit.  Part of the tremendous appeal of GPS is that even
the most inexpensive unit can be incredibly accurate if they can maintain
signal lock.  What truly surprises me is how many owners don't bother to get
a powered antenna.  The difference it makes is truly incredible,
particularly in areas with overhead cover.

-Perrone

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf
> Of Rick Grant
> Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 12:26 AM
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: [lro] GPS and Land Rovers
>
>
>
> In the discussion about Gas Mileage I noticed that quite a few people use
> GPS' to track mileage and speed.
>
> There was an announcement today that new North American
> Discovery's will be
> equipped with GPS antennas and equipment to pinpoint their position,
> presumably on a four lane highway to 1 metre.
>
> I'm just wondering how many Series owners are using GPS' in lieu of
> speedometers considering that you can get a pretty decent unit
> for about a
> hundred dollars and that must be cheaper and certainly more
> accurate than a
> new speedometer/odometer.
>
> I use a Garmin GPSII+ for everday use but I hook it to a Psion handheld
> with a moving map display for more involved journeys.  I'll soon be
> upgrading to the Garmin V.
>
> What units and combinations of computer power are people finding useful?

--__--__--

Message: 40
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 23:02:26 -0600
To: [email-masked]
From: Rick Grant <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] GPS and Land Rovers
Reply-To: [email-masked]

At 00:36 30/08/01 -0400, Perrone Ford, wrote

>I'm almost sorry to hear you say you are upgrading to another unit.  The
>GPSII is a great unit.

I am only upgrading to take advantage of the route finding and directing 
capabilities of the Garmin GPS V, plus the map display option ,without the 
need to hook up the Psion.  It would be used almost exclusively in our 
Subaru for extended trips, something we do a lot.

My idea is to use the GPSII+ exclusively in the Series II and for hiking 
where the extra capabilities of the V are superfluous.  Of course the form 
factor and capabilities of the V and II+ are exactly the same when hiking 
so either could be used for that.  But it would be nice to have the II+ 
semi permanently assigned to the Land Rover.

                                             Rick Grant

  				  1959 Series II   "88"
				  VORIZO

Rick Grant Communications
Media and Crisis Management
Calgary Ottawa
www.rickgrant.com

--__--__--

Message: 41
From: "girasoli" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] leaf springs
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 01:09:41 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi Bryan,

Well, no spouse yet...so maybe that's why I'm able to do this now!

Are frame-overs able to be done by one person? Or is it a better idea to
send it to a company? I've heard a lot about East Coast Rovers, who do that
sort of thing. I live in Connecticut, and that's the closest place I can
find.
Thanx for your advice...
brian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bryan Hoult" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 3:44 PM
Subject: Re: [lro] leaf springs

>
> -rusty frame bad, leaf springs no problem.
>
> Depending on how much the truck costs, rusty frame isn't that much of a
problem - they can be switched out in a process fondly known as a
"frame-over".  This can coincide with a "spouse-over", so careful planning
and good communication is recommended where spouses are applicable.  The
springs and frames are available from several sources.  Original equipment
springs (Land Rover)for an 88 will run about $600 for a set of 4, and the
change in springs should include bushing replacement.  Parabolics (rocky
mountain/TI Console)are considered an improvement and cost about the same. A
new frame for an 88 (Marslands/Arrow)will cost about $1800 delivered to the
US and will require a considerable amount of time to swap out.
>
> Bryan
> 62 88
> 70 109 "Genie"
>
>
>
> On Wed, 29 August 2001, "girasoli" wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Afternoon, all...
> >
> > I'm new to the list as of today. I have the opportunity to buy a '67
Series
> > IIa. However, it has a rusty frame as well as leaf springs. Are leaf
springs
> > hard to come by? I've been talking to another Series IIa owner (Niall,
you out
> > there?) who's given me some helpful advice. What company offers these
springs?
> > Are they expensive?
> >
> > My knowledge of rovers is practically nil, I'm new to the whole thing.
Any
> > advice you have is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
> >
> > brian
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
>
>
> ________________________________________________
> PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart.
> http://www.peoplepc.com
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

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