Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #54 - 40 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 03:05:33 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Brake pedal sinking. Very odd. (Steve Mace)
   2. Re: zenith float and annealing (Tim Thorpe)
   3. Need advice for L-P.O.D sacrifice (Rob MacCormick)
   4. RE: Brake Bleeding (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
   5. Re: Need advice for L-P.O.D sacrifice (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
   6. Re: Need advice for L-P.O.D sacrifice (David Scheidt)
   7. Re: Need advice for L-P.O.D sacrifice (Rob MacCormick)
   8. RE: Brake Bleeding (Sergi, Michael)
   9. pardon my ignorance (Rob MacCormick)
  10. Re: pardon my ignorance (David Scheidt)
  11. Re: pardon my ignorance (Kirk Hillman)
  12. RE: pardon my ignorance (Sergi, Michael)
  13. Re: pardon my ignorance (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  14. Re: Brake Bleeding ([email-masked])
  15. linguistically challenged (Rob MacCormick)
  16. Re: Removing Brake Drums (G. Mugele)
  17. Re: Need advice for L-P.O.D sacrifice (Douglas Boothby)
  18. Re: linguistically challenged (Gerald)
  19. Re: linguistically challenged (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  20. Re: linguistically challenged (Jeff Bieler)
  21. emissions stuff for NAS SIII (KURT W. KRAUSS)
  22. Re: linguistically challenged (Rob MacCormick)
  23. RE: Re: zenith float and annealing (Simon J. Harding)
  24. Re: linguistically challenged (Tate Crumbley)
  25. Re: Re: zenith float and annealing (Rob MacCormick)
  26. Re: linguistically challenged (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  27. Re: Re: zenith float and annealing (Jeff Berg)
  28. Re: Re: zenith float and annealing (Dick Joltes)
  29. RE: Re: zenith float and annealing (Simon J. Harding)
  30. Re: Need advice for L-P.O.D sacrifice (Jean-Leon Morin)
  31. Re: Brake Bleeding (d.h.lowe)
  32. Frame replacement/engine upgrades (=?iso-8859-1?q?Robert=20Ries?=)
  33. Re: Used switches, could USED be the problem/Resurecting
       Red Zit (N Forbes)
  34. Re: Spray can sand? (kyle vandyke)
  35. Re: Spray can sand? (Scott Wickham Jr.)
  36. RE: Spray can sand? (Simon J. Harding)
  37. Suspension seat for a IIa (Chris Schramm)
  38. Re: Suspension seat for a IIa (Kirk Hillman)
  39. Re: Suspension seat for a IIa (Hope Peter)

--__--__--

Message: 1
From: "Steve Mace" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 08:23:28 +0100
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake pedal sinking. Very odd.
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Been there. Done that. Failed M/C.

> On Fri, 10 Aug 2001, S. Vels wrote:
> :Before taking the whole brake system apart, i would like to hear an opinion :on
> this strange problem: : :When pressing the brake pedal, the car slows down as
> expected. Only, the :pedal is slowly sinking as if there is a leak somewhere.

Steve

1972 SIII LtWt Green
1993 D90 Red
-------------------------------------
Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: [email-masked]
www: http://www.solwise.co.uk
Tel: 0845 458 4558 (local rate)
Fax: 0845 458 4559
Intl. Fax. +44 1482 672877
-------------------------------------

--__--__--

Message: 2
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 12:04:20 +0100 (BST)
From: Tim Thorpe <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Re: zenith float and annealing
Reply-To: [email-masked]

"Simon J. Harding" <[email-masked]>  wrote:

>I put on a believed to be good used zenith before my 1000 mile Steens Mt. Road >trip and on my return, I had a black smoke problem.  On the trip I put it down >to altitude, but no.   So yesterday I cracked the thing, replaced the O ring, >plugged the extraneous port (per BP's website diagram) and replaced the gasket.
> <snip>
>Put her all back together  (yes, I sinned, I did not glass plate grind or >anneal), and the black smoke problem seems to be gone, but on re-adjusting the >carb, the engine will  race after I've hit the accelerator, dropping down a few >moments later and then dying unless I goose it.  This happens without regard to >the idle setting.

I think caution is needed with the "blocking unused port" mod.
When I looked at this diagram some years ago, it seemed to lead
me to a very used port. Someone else on the list once said the
same thing, so either he and I had different Zeniths to the rest
of you, or both of us misinterpreted the diagram in the same way.

The drilling I would have blocked carries vacuum to the "economy
device" diaphragm. If you close this, it could conceivably cause
the symptoms you describe (the system enriches the mixture when
the vacuum drops to a very low level).

Tim.
------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Thorpe	                        Tel: +44 1223 240366 
[email-masked]                  Fax: +44 1223 414402
------------------------------------------------------------

--__--__--

Message: 3
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 08:09:45 -0400
From: Rob MacCormick <[email-masked]>
Organization: Boston College
To: LRO list <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Need advice for L-P.O.D sacrifice
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Greetings. I am in the need of an appropriate sacrificial offering or
other such protective device/method to keep Lucas - The Prince of
Darkness at bay. I seem to have most recently lost the ability to alert
those behind that I am attempting to reduce speed.....Is there an
interim method to hold me over until such time that I can replace rotten
crumbling smoke channels?

Is the device that switches power to light the brake lights typicaly
hydraulic or mechanical? is it at/ near the pedal?

My car is occasisionally refffered to as the "bitsa" and is comprised of
a RHD '68 dormobile with a Salisbury rear axle and a chevy straight 6
(originally rover 6) vac. booster for bralkes) combined with a bit of
this and a bit of that.

Any comments useful or otherwise are greatly appreciated.

I will meter the socket(s) but I believe the prince has unleashed his
furry further upstream

Rob MacCormick
Concord, MA USA

Ma why is that guy in the dor(k)mobile using hand signals?

--__--__--

Message: 4
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Brake Bleeding
To: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 08:06:13 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Re: Pressure bleeding:

Easiest thing I ever found was to take an old cap and cut it for a Schrader
tubeless tyre valve. Just drill a hole in the top of the cap and pop the
valve in with the valve core removed.

Then I usually just put a locking tyre chuck onto the valve and just crack
the pressure valve on it from y air tank or any other source of compressed
air. Works like a charm, and minimum hassle with duct tape as it's all
screw-on or clamp on.

                        ajr

--__--__--

Message: 5
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Need advice for L-P.O.D sacrifice
To: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 08:30:24 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Rob, I can almost guarantee where the problem is.

You just had the exhaust done on the beast, right? Well, in all probability
the orangutan that did the job (nice exhaust, BTW) knocked one or both of
the leads off the hydraulic switch at the 5-way junction on the chassis (or
burnt them off - it wouldn't surprise me).

OK, get under the car behind the right front wheel and look up. You will
see the 5-way junction there - the connector that runs all the hydraulic
fluid to the brake lines from the line from the booster. Screwed into the
5-way at the horizontal is the pressure switch dingus that turns the lights
on and off - and it has 2 leads connected to it.

Plug 'em back in if they are off, or if they're on and the lights don't
work short 'em together to see if they come on. Don't forget that the key
has to be on for the stop lights to work..... If the lights don't light
with the pedal pressed but do with the wires shorted the hydraulic dingus
has gone bad - replace as needed.

If they don't light up at all, it's time to do a little test lamp work. One
of the leads should have voltage on it with the key on - the other should
light the lamps when connected to the hot side of the battery with a long
bit of wire. If these criteria aren't met then diagnose from there....

                  ajr

--__--__--

Message: 6
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 07:56:25 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: LRO list <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Need advice for L-P.O.D sacrifice
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Fri, 17 Aug 2001, Rob MacCormick wrote:

:
:Greetings. I am in the need of an appropriate sacrificial offering or
:other such protective device/method to keep Lucas - The Prince of
:Darkness at bay. I seem to have most recently lost the ability to alert
:those behind that I am attempting to reduce speed.....Is there an
:interim method to hold me over until such time that I can replace rotten
:crumbling smoke channels?
:
:Is the device that switches power to light the brake lights typicaly
:hydraulic or mechanical? is it at/ near the pedal?

Series IIAs have a hydraulic switch.  It ought to be on the right hand
crossmember somewhere.  That's for a single system.  I think the move to
dual system is when they went to mechanical switch on the pedal box.

Either way, the debugging method is more or less the same.  Find the
switch, disconnect the two leads, use a piece of sandpaper or steel
wool or whatever to clean the lugs on the switch and the connections on
the leads.  Make sure the connectors are firmly attached to the wires,
and that the wire hasn't broken right there.  Put a voltmeter between
the leads, there should be 12V.  If there's not, make sure the ignition
switch is on (brake lights are switched for some reason).  If you still
don't have 12V, figure out which of the two wires is the supply, and
find out why it's not working.  My bet would be a bad lucar connecation
or bad connection at fuse box.  Fix that, put it back together, and
the stop lights should work.  If you have 12V, or fixing that problem
doesn't fix things, put a ohm meter on the switch connections.  It
should read infinite resistance.  Get someone to push the brake pedal.
The resistance should fall to close to zero.  If it doesn't, and you've
got a hydraulic switch, press the pedal harder.  If that fail, replace
the switch.  An early 60's VW bug switch is said to work.  If you've got
a mechanical switch, there's some adjustment in the works; make sure the
pedal is hitting the switch.  If it is, and it doesn't work, take it
off, spray contact cleaner on all the bits, work it a bit, spray some
more.  See if it works now.  If it doesn't, get a new one.  Depending on
how adventurous you feel, you might try taking it along to your friendly
local autoparts store, and see if they'll let you dig through their
switches to find what you need.  If you find one that works, let us know.

If the switch works, hook the wires back up.  (Check if the brake lights
work....)  Check the sockets at the back.

David

-- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

--__--__--

Message: 7
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 09:00:54 -0400
From: Rob MacCormick <[email-masked]>
Organization: Boston College
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Need advice for L-P.O.D sacrifice
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Alan, thanks for the tips...I'm thinking electrical right now and maybe I
dislodged something while removing lines feeding the air assisted spine
crackers (you now, those big honking shock like things that were supposed to be
load levelers)....As I said last night the ride is soo much more humane with
those things removed....Now that the leaves actually move it doesn't corner
like its on rails like it used to thou.....

Rob M

--__--__--

Message: 8
From: "Sergi, Michael" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Brake Bleeding
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 09:04:39 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

LR says to use 14psi to bleed brakes when you are using a CB type master
cylinder.  Something about trapping air and the angle the cylinder sits at.

Mike

--__--__--

Message: 9
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 09:10:36 -0400
From: Rob MacCormick <[email-masked]>
Organization: Boston College
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] pardon my ignorance
Reply-To: [email-masked]

CB?

"Sergi, Michael" wrote:

> LR says to use 14psi to bleed brakes when you are using a CB type master
> cylinder.  Something about trapping air and the angle the cylinder sits at.
>
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 10
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 08:13:26 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] pardon my ignorance
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Fri, 17 Aug 2001, Rob MacCormick wrote:

:
:CB?

One of the two types of brake master cylinders.  It's the one that's got a
big hex head at hte end.  Pain in the arse to bleed.

-- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

--__--__--

Message: 11
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] pardon my ignorance
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 07:07:32 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

CV - Centre Valve
CB - Compression... something 'er other.  Someone help me out here.

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 12
From: "Sergi, Michael" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] pardon my ignorance
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 09:26:48 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

CB-Compression Barrel

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kirk Hillman [mailto:[email-masked]]
> Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 8:08 AM
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: [lro] pardon my ignorance
> 
> 
> 
> CV - Centre Valve
> CB - Compression... something 'er other.  Someone help me out here.
> 
> Kirk
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 13
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] pardon my ignorance
To: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 09:28:25 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Re: CB?

Compression Barrel - this is what you have on your 109. The alternate is
the CV master - the clutch master you have which gets used on later IIa 88s
as both brake and clutch master.

                        ajr

--__--__--

Message: 14
From: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 10:12:36 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake Bleeding
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 8/16/01 11:43:35 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

<< has anyone used a bicycle tire
 tube cut in half to bleed the brakes. >>
I've tried this.  It works ok, but it's hard to achieve very much pressure.  
Three pounds or so and the tube becomes a balloon.  I was worried about 
popping the thing because GT\LMX seems to be a very effective paint remover.  
All in all I still prefer the old fashioned way with a partner.  

Ed Bailey
66 S2A SWB (Millennium Falcon)
Somewhere in East Tennessee

--__--__--

Message: 15
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 10:52:47 -0400
From: Rob MacCormick <[email-masked]>
Organization: Boston College
To: LRO list <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] linguistically challenged
Reply-To: [email-masked]

A key fob came with my car it says "GNATHOS" what does this mean?
Rob (Things that make you go Huh?) M

--__--__--

Message: 16
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 12:38:32 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: "G. Mugele" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Removing Brake Drums
Reply-To: [email-masked]

At 9:18 PM +0200 8/16/01, Christian Kiel wrote:
>Ok, does anyone has a good working idea, how to remove the Brake Drums
>from my ex-MoD Series III 109. I have slacken the brake adjusters,
>removed the brake drum fixings and used a hammer like a madman. Nothing.
>Opened a beer, called a friend, used the Hammer. Nothing.

Assuming that you have already taken out the three screws.... you 
have haven't you? ...
take one of those screws and screw it into the hole that is not 
countersunk.  That should back your drum out enough to get something 
behind it to pry the drum off.

A hammer never helped me except to somewhat alleviate frustration.

       _
     / o\_         Gerald Mugele
    /   )-- \       [email-masked]
   /    |            Glen Ellen, CA
*** "In America, anyone can become president. That's one of the risks 
you take."   ~ Adlai Stevenson 

--__--__--

Message: 17
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 08:41:34 -0400
From: Douglas Boothby <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Need advice for L-P.O.D sacrifice
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I had a 1967 109 that lost brake lights. It had a switch built into the
brake lines that was hydraulically activated, and if memory serves, it's
located under the front passenger area. Rather than taking brake lines off,
bleeding, etc., I took a pedal activated switch off an old Subaru, made a
small bracket to mount it under the 'dash', then ran a wire down to the
original switch. Viola, The Prince was foiled again.
Doug

Rob MacCormick wrote:

> Greetings. I am in the need of an appropriate sacrificial offering or
> other such protective device/method to keep Lucas - The Prince of
> Darkness at bay. I seem to have most recently lost the ability to alert
> those behind that I am attempting to reduce speed.....Is there an
> interim method to hold me over until such time that I can replace rotten
> crumbling smoke channels?
>
> Is the device that switches power to light the brake lights typicaly
> hydraulic or mechanical? is it at/ near the pedal?
>
> My car is occasisionally refffered to as the "bitsa" and is comprised of
> a RHD '68 dormobile with a Salisbury rear axle and a chevy straight 6
> (originally rover 6) vac. booster for bralkes) combined with a bit of
> this and a bit of that.
>
> Any comments useful or otherwise are greatly appreciated.
>
> I will meter the socket(s) but I believe the prince has unleashed his
> furry further upstream
>
> Rob MacCormick
> Concord, MA USA
>
> Ma why is that guy in the dor(k)mobile using hand signals?
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 18
From: Gerald <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] linguistically challenged
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 11:00:59 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Something to do with jaws? The greek word for jaw seems to be gnathos
according to my dictionary.

On Fri, 17 Aug 2001 10:52:47 -0400, you wrote:

>
>A key fob came with my car it says "GNATHOS" what does this mean?
>Rob (Things that make you go Huh?) M

--
Gerald
[email-masked]

--__--__--

Message: 19
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] linguistically challenged
To: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 11:01:59 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Near as I can figure from my refernce stuff, gnathos is Greek for jaw......

                              aj"But I'd have to bone up to be sure..."r

--__--__--

Message: 20
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 08:12:48 -0700
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] linguistically challenged
Reply-To: [email-masked]

what?  ass, you say?  ;-)

Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:

> Near as I can figure from my refernce stuff, gnathos is Greek for jaw......
>
>                               aj"But I'd have to bone up to be sure..."r
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 21
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 11:12:42 -0400
From: "KURT W. KRAUSS" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] emissions stuff for NAS SIII
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I am looking for a vacuum switch, trigger valve and diaphragm unit for
my 1973 NAS SIII.  Does anyone know a source of NOS or good used?
Thanks,
Kurt Krauss
1973 NAS SIII

--
====
Sender:
Kurt W. Krauss
Knox, Naughton, Kott, Fraser & Krauss, P.C.
299 Cherry Hill Road
Parsipanny, New Jersey 07054
Telephone: (973) 335-3900
Fax: (973) 335-9577
Email: [email-masked]
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

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--__--__--

Message: 22
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 11:16:11 -0400
From: Rob MacCormick <[email-masked]>
Organization: Boston College
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] linguistically challenged
Reply-To: [email-masked]

"gnathos"
spot on to those who said something to do with teeth or jaw.....Come to
think of it the previous owner was affliliated in some way shape or form
with the dental profession......I was beginning to think that it had to
do with the gnashing of teeth in my rear diff......Now that that seems
to be solved I think I shall replace the key fob......

--__--__--

Message: 23
From: "Simon J. Harding" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Re: zenith float and annealing
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 08:06:37 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I'll double check that, but on this carb, the port did indeed blank out
against the gasket/upper half of the carb.  There is another port of some kind
very near it, so I suppose I should double check it.  Unfortunately, it'll
have to wait until my mother in law leaves town....
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From:	Tim Thorpe [SMTP:[email-masked]]
Sent:	Friday, August 17, 2001 4:04 AM
To:	[email-masked]
Subject:	[lro] Re: zenith float and annealing

"Simon J. Harding" <[email-masked]>  wrote:

>I put on a believed to be good used zenith before my 1000 mile Steens Mt.
Road >trip and on my return, I had a black smoke problem.  On the trip I put
it down >to altitude, but no.   So yesterday I cracked the thing, replaced the
O ring, >plugged the extraneous port (per BP's website diagram) and replaced
the gasket.
> <snip>
>Put her all back together  (yes, I sinned, I did not glass plate grind or
>anneal), and the black smoke problem seems to be gone, but on re-adjusting
the >carb, the engine will  race after I've hit the accelerator, dropping down
a few >moments later and then dying unless I goose it.  This happens without
regard to >the idle setting.

I think caution is needed with the "blocking unused port" mod.
When I looked at this diagram some years ago, it seemed to lead
me to a very used port. Someone else on the list once said the
same thing, so either he and I had different Zeniths to the rest
of you, or both of us misinterpreted the diagram in the same way.

The drilling I would have blocked carries vacuum to the "economy
device" diaphragm. If you close this, it could conceivably cause
the symptoms you describe (the system enriches the mixture when
the vacuum drops to a very low level).

Tim.
------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Thorpe	                        Tel: +44 1223 240366
[email-masked]                  Fax: +44 1223 414402
------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

[demime 0.98b removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]

--__--__--

Message: 24
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 11:19:56 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: Tate Crumbley <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] linguistically challenged
Reply-To: [email-masked]

http://www.gnathos.com/

A company that makes synthetic diamond impregnated drill bits...

Tate

At 11:16 AM 8/17/2001 -0400, you wrote:

>"gnathos"
>spot on to those who said something to do with teeth or jaw.....Come to
>think of it the previous owner was affliliated in some way shape or form
>with the dental profession......I was beginning to think that it had to
>do with the gnashing of teeth in my rear diff......Now that that seems
>to be solved I think I shall replace the key fob......
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 25
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 11:25:48 -0400
From: Rob MacCormick <[email-masked]>
Organization: Boston College
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: zenith float and annealing
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Simon you little rat @#%%$$??? I'm staying another 2 weeks now sonny!

Sorry Simon she took over my keyboard!

Rob M

"Simon J. Harding" wrote:

> I'll double check that, but on this carb, the port did indeed blank out
> against the gasket/upper half of the carb.  There is another port of some kind
> very near it, so I suppose I should double check it.  Unfortunately, it'll
> have to wait until my mother in law leaves town....
> Simon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:   Tim Thorpe [SMTP:[email-masked]]
> Sent:   Friday, August 17, 2001 4:04 AM
> To:     [email-masked]
> Subject:        [lro] Re: zenith float and annealing
>
> "Simon J. Harding" <[email-masked]>  wrote:
>
> >I put on a believed to be good used zenith before my 1000 mile Steens Mt.
> Road >trip and on my return, I had a black smoke problem.  On the trip I put
> it down >to altitude, but no.   So yesterday I cracked the thing, replaced the
> O ring, >plugged the extraneous port (per BP's website diagram) and replaced
> the gasket.
> > <snip>
> >Put her all back together  (yes, I sinned, I did not glass plate grind or
> >anneal), and the black smoke problem seems to be gone, but on re-adjusting
> the >carb, the engine will  race after I've hit the accelerator, dropping down
> a few >moments later and then dying unless I goose it.  This happens without
> regard to >the idle setting.
>
> I think caution is needed with the "blocking unused port" mod.
> When I looked at this diagram some years ago, it seemed to lead
> me to a very used port. Someone else on the list once said the
> same thing, so either he and I had different Zeniths to the rest
> of you, or both of us misinterpreted the diagram in the same way.
>
> The drilling I would have blocked carries vacuum to the "economy
> device" diaphragm. If you close this, it could conceivably cause
> the symptoms you describe (the system enriches the mixture when
> the vacuum drops to a very low level).
>
> Tim.
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> Tim Thorpe                              Tel: +44 1223 240366
> [email-masked]                  Fax: +44 1223 414402
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
>
> [demime 0.98b removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 26
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] linguistically challenged
To: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 11:26:25 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Re: Gnathos:

In searching it also turned out that that is the name of a rather-large
supplier of dental torture instruments to the trade - specifically
disposable diamond bits.

A promotional keychain fob from a supplier seems to be a distinct
possibility.....

                              ajr

--__--__--

Message: 27
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 11:43:39 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: zenith float and annealing
Reply-To: [email-masked]

FWIW, Charlie Haigh always said to NOT block that port as it's 
treating a symptom, not the problem and (memory is vague on this last 
part) the port isn't really extraneous.

His answer was a proper annealing as described by Simon. Here's my 
less then perfect recall of that procedure. Remove all the bits that 
burn and the jets. Heat that oven up to 450 (perhaps it was 500) 
degrees. Bake for six (maybe it was twelve?) hours, then drop the 
temperature on the oven by 50 degrees every hour. Once the carb has 
cooled down, re-machine the mating surfaces using the glass plate 
grind or your local machinist. Take care to remove the same amount of 
material from both halves of the carb. Reassemble.

Enjoy a trouble free Zenith carb. from that moment on--at least until 
the float floods.

To avoid problems with mother-in-law, mother or significant other, it 
has been suggested that a toaster oven purchased at a yard sale would 
do the trick inexpensively.

One of these days I'll actually get around to doing this.

jeff
-- 
==
  Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                     [email-masked]
                      ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

--__--__--

Message: 28
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 11:54:04 -0400
From: Dick Joltes <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: zenith float and annealing
Reply-To: [email-masked]

First post to the list...hi all (some of you know me already).

I'm in the midst of the same issue and decided to try the info on BP's
site.  The diagram-with-arrow seems to indicate that, if viewed from 
the rear of the carb body, one should plug the RIGHT-most hole.  But
as there's a matching opening on the carb top this seemed like a bad
option.

For grins I used a handy plug-o-rubber to partially block this hole,
and could barely get my car to idle with choke full on.  Removing the
plug restored the idle to its normal level.  I didn't try fully
blocking the hole as I decided I had better things to do.

I've yet to try the other, LEFT-side hole to see if it has any effect.
The other option might be a thin coat of some petrol-proof sealant in
the area between the two holes -- not enough to warp the fit between
the top of the carb and the body but enough to maintain the seal.
Maybe a spritz of high-tack gasket sealant would work.  Opinions?

The behaviour I'm seeing is as described on BP's page -- coughing
during acceleration and rich running at idle.  Carb is newish, was
replaced ca. 1997 by the car's previous owner.  It's a standard 361V.

Cheers,

dj
('74 SIII Airportable, "Smudger")

Tim Thorpe wrote:

> I think caution is needed with the "blocking unused port" mod.
> When I looked at this diagram some years ago, it seemed to lead
> me to a very used port. Someone else on the list once said the
> same thing, so either he and I had different Zeniths to the rest
> of you, or both of us misinterpreted the diagram in the same way.
> 
> The drilling I would have blocked carries vacuum to the "economy
> device" diaphragm. If you close this, it could conceivably cause
> the symptoms you describe (the system enriches the mixture when
> the vacuum drops to a very low level).

--__--__--

Message: 29
From: "Simon J. Harding" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Re: zenith float and annealing
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 08:45:46 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Aaaaaaaaeeeeeeeeiiiiiiiiiiiiiii!  The Horror, The Horror!  Some jokes aren't
funny!   I'm jonesing hard to get out there and pull that carburetor and try
to make it right but I know the moment I lay a finger on it I'll get that look
from my lovely wife as in I can't believe you blah blah blah.... And I want to
get the rover up and running fro the Portland ABFM! Do you feel my pain?
Simon
-----Original Message-----
From:	Rob MacCormick [SMTP:[email-masked]]
Sent:	Friday, August 17, 2001 8:26 AM
To:	[email-masked]
Subject:	Re: [lro] Re: zenith float and annealing

Simon you little rat @#%%$$??? I'm staying another 2 weeks now sonny!

Sorry Simon she took over my keyboard!

Rob M

"Simon J. Harding" wrote:

> I'll double check that, but on this carb, the port did indeed blank out
> against the gasket/upper half of the carb.  There is another port of some
kind
> very near it, so I suppose I should double check it.  Unfortunately, it'll
> have to wait until my mother in law leaves town....
> Simon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:   Tim Thorpe [SMTP:[email-masked]]
> Sent:   Friday, August 17, 2001 4:04 AM
> To:     [email-masked]
> Subject:        [lro] Re: zenith float and annealing
>
> "Simon J. Harding" <[email-masked]>  wrote:
>
> >I put on a believed to be good used zenith before my 1000 mile Steens Mt.
> Road >trip and on my return, I had a black smoke problem.  On the trip I
put
> it down >to altitude, but no.   So yesterday I cracked the thing, replaced
the
> O ring, >plugged the extraneous port (per BP's website diagram) and
replaced
> the gasket.
> > <snip>
> >Put her all back together  (yes, I sinned, I did not glass plate grind or
> >anneal), and the black smoke problem seems to be gone, but on re-adjusting
> the >carb, the engine will  race after I've hit the accelerator, dropping
down
> a few >moments later and then dying unless I goose it.  This happens
without
> regard to >the idle setting.
>
> I think caution is needed with the "blocking unused port" mod.
> When I looked at this diagram some years ago, it seemed to lead
> me to a very used port. Someone else on the list once said the
> same thing, so either he and I had different Zeniths to the rest
> of you, or both of us misinterpreted the diagram in the same way.
>
> The drilling I would have blocked carries vacuum to the "economy
> device" diaphragm. If you close this, it could conceivably cause
> the symptoms you describe (the system enriches the mixture when
> the vacuum drops to a very low level).
>
> Tim.
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> Tim Thorpe                              Tel: +44 1223 240366
> [email-masked]                  Fax: +44 1223 414402
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
>
> [demime 0.98b removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

[demime 0.98b removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]

--__--__--

Message: 30
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Need advice for L-P.O.D sacrifice
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 12:17:18 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I use a switch off a 1982 XL350 motorcycle. It is for the rear brake, and it
works great - small angle bracket under dash, wires, and voila, a working
brake light setup.

J-L

--__--__--

Message: 31
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 14:58:11 -0400
From: "d.h.lowe" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake Bleeding
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Al, I did the same thing with the cap but used a truck shraeder valve since
they bolt in. I left the valve intact and hooked it to my El Cheepo 12 volt
plastic compressor. With a push button momentary contact switch in the extended
electrical leads to the compressor I can sit in the wheel well and give it a
squirt of compressed air and bleed it. Nice and gentle. I found using an air
line or tank too savage and kept blowing the fluid through the rerservoir.
Dave

Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:

> Re: Pressure bleeding:
>
> Easiest thing I ever found was to take an old cap and cut it for a Schrader
> tubeless tyre valve. Just drill a hole in the top of the cap and pop the
> valve in with the valve core removed.
>
> Then I usually just put a locking tyre chuck onto the valve and just crack
> the pressure valve on it from y air tank or any other source of compressed
> air. Works like a charm, and minimum hassle with duct tape as it's all
> screw-on or clamp on.
>
>                         ajr
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 32
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 05:24:17 +0100 (BST)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Robert=20Ries?= <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked], [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Frame replacement/engine upgrades
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Well, aside from the above message, I've been mostly lurking for
the last several months and here's why.  Last winter after my
accident, I ordered parabolic springs from R.M., along with the
Pro-comp shocks, some 1-ton shackles from Wicken 4x4 and
tires/wheels from Bronco.  When I was finally mobile this spring
I got around to installing them.  After doing the rear end I
started on the front, only to discover that Blue Daemon's frame
was a worse mess of rot and cracks and  bodged repairs than I
had thought.  (Front end was ready to fall off, one spring
hanger has pushed into frame section and is now resting against
the upper frame plate!)  Verdict- B.D. needs a new skeleton to
go with her new shoes.  I would like to get a new frame from
Marsland or Designa- with the following mods:  1. removable
tranny crossmember  2. military rear crossmember w/ PTO hole   
3. second petrol tank mounting and tank guards on both sides
(she's an 88")  4. sill guards  5.  re-inforcements/mounts at
both ends to take quick-mount winch.   All would of course be
galvanised.  Can anyone recommend one company over the other? 
I'll be trying to get quotes for prices this week.  

The same week I bought a 2.5l petrol engine from Paul Humphries.
 I want to get it completely rebuilt with some performance
upgrades from ACR or similar stuff.  Any advice or cost
estimates or testemonials?  

Unfortunatly I won't be able to do any of the work myself due to
lack of time, so it'll all be done with my poor, patheticlly
whimpering wallet.....  SIGH!!    

=====
Robert D. Ries
SSgt, USAF
Burwell, England
"With friends like these..."

____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.co.uk address at http://mail.yahoo.co.uk
or your free @yahoo.ie address at http://mail.yahoo.ie

--__--__--

Message: 33
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Used switches, could USED be the problem/Resurecting
  Red Zit
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 21:00:16 +0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Many thanks to all who have responded. I'll try the relays and check for 
loose connectors. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Thanks again.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
--author unknown

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 34
From: "kyle vandyke" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Spray can sand?
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 22:56:02 
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I used Rustoleum Almond, gives a nice light sand color.  They have a
rustoleum Sand but it was a little too dark for my taste.

Kyle

71 IIA 109

>Does anyone know if there is a spray can approximation of the >Rover
sand color? Rust O leum? Krylon? >thanks >George Kase

------------------------------------------------------------------------

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--__--__--

Message: 35
From: "Scott Wickham Jr." <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Spray can sand?
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 19:32:29 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

  I've used Plasti-kote #370 SAND on both my Rovers.  Looks good I think.
Can says Rust Not on it too so it helps a little on the steel stuff.

Scooter

--__--__--

Message: 36
From: "Simon J. Harding" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Spray can sand?
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 16:34:13 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

FWIW, buy a few kinds and find the closest.  My trop top was rattle canned by
the PO with K-Mart Brand (Dutch Boy)  epoxy enamel Almond, and it looks like
something between sand and limestone, kinda a "light"  sand, but the price was
right I guess... I bought a can for touch up of the rusting steel trop top
screws, and it was USD 1.99 a can!
Simon

[demime 0.98b removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]

--__--__--

Message: 37
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 18:18:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Schramm <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Suspension seat for a IIa
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I've purchased a suspension seat that is larger than
the normal seat in a Series -- and would like to move
it back about an inch and a half -- by cutting into
the bulkhead on the tub of my IIa.  I'm concerned
about the structural integrity of the door posts if I
do it -- anyone ever fabricate changes to the tub bulkhead?

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/

--__--__--

Message: 38
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Suspension seat for a IIa
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 19:31:30 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Take this for what it is worth.  The major team from Malaysia that competes
in the Rainforest Challenge runs without the bulkhead at all.  I know they
do far more serious stuff than anyone else I have met...

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 39
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Suspension seat for a IIa
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 18:32:42 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> I've purchased a suspension seat that is larger than
> the normal seat in a Series -- and would like to move
> it back about an inch and a half -- by cutting into
> the bulkhead on the tub of my IIa.  I'm concerned
> about the structural integrity of the door posts if I
> do it -- anyone ever fabricate changes to the tub bulkhead?
>
Do you have a hard top or softtop?  With the hard top dont think it would
matter at all.

One of the guys on the island has a 109 2 door hard top.  Removed the
bulkhead and installed different tallbacked seats.
Pete

--__--__--

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