Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #53 - 43 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 03:04:04 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Howling 109 SIII (Peter =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Thor=E9n?=)
   2. Re: Axle straps (TeriAnn Wakeman)
   3. Re: axle straps (Andre Shoumatoff)
   4. Keith's vents; my prop (Garrick Olsen)
   5. Re: Axle straps (TeriAnn Wakeman)
   6. koenig drive shaft (Simon J. Harding)
   7. Re: quick oil change valve ([email-masked])
   8. Re: Keith's vents; my prop (Paul Oxley)
   9. zenith float and annealing (Simon J. Harding)
  10. roof vents:use a document clip (Simon J. Harding)
  11. Brake Bleeding (Sergi, Michael)
  12. Re: Powder coating wheels (Faure, Marin)
  13. Re: Brake Bleeding (Rick Grant)
  14. Re: Brake Bleeding (Perrone Ford)
  15. RE: Re: Powder coating wheels (Tackley, John)
  16. RE: Brake Bleeding (Tackley, John)
  17. Re: LRO digest, Vol 1 #44 - 49 msgs (Chris)
  18. shock bolts (Jeff Bieler)
  19. Re: oil leak and transfer case selector issue (DaveB)
  20. Re: Behind the T case... (DaveB)
  21. Re: Re: Powder coating wheels (Paul Oxley)
  22. Re: shock bolts (RON WARD)
  23. Re: shock bolts (Jeff Bieler)
  24. Re: oil leak and transfer case selector issue (Jeff Bieler)
  25. RE: Brake Bleeding (Sergi, Michael)
  26. Re: Brake Bleeding (Perrone Ford)
  27. RE: Brake Bleeding (Sergi, Michael)
  28. Removing Brake Drums (Christian Kiel)
  29. RE: Removing Brake Drums (Tackley, John)
  30. Re: Brake Bleeding (Perrone Ford)
  31. RE: Brake Bleeding (Sergi, Michael)
  32. RE: Brake Bleeding (Peter Ogilvie)
  33. Re: Brake Bleeding (Peter Ogilvie)
  34. RE: Used switches, could USED be the problem. (N Forbes)
  35. Re: Re: axle straps (Peter Ogilvie)
  36. RE: Used switches, could USED be the problem. (Peter Ogilvie)
  37. Re: quick oil change valve ([email-masked])
  38. Re: Howling 109 SIII ([email-masked])
  39. Re: quick oil change valve (Gerald)
  40. Re: Brake Bleeding (Peter Thomson)
  41. Re: Brake Bleeding (Par Leijonhufvud)
  42. Re: Used switches, could USED be the problem. (Jean-Leon Morin)
  43. Re: Brake Bleeding (Peter Thomson)

--__--__--

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 12:14:02 +0200
To: [email-masked]
From: Peter =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Thor=E9n?= <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Howling 109 SIII
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Could this cause the howling noice?

Peter

At 22:26 2001-08-14 -0700, you wrote:

>It over crushes the crush collar.  That would pull the pinion out of mesh
>with the ring gear.  I'm guessing that you have a Salisbury axle.  You
>could check gear mesh by pulling the back cover, cleaning the teeth with
>brake cleaner then painting the teeth with "layout blue" (Dykem being the
>big name), then turn the pinion.  After one turn of the ring gear look at
>the area where the pinion has worn the "blue " away.  Any text on diff
>rebuilds should have pictures or diagrams of what and where the contact
>area should be.  Contact patterns are pretty much generic,  what works
>for a Honda passport also works for a ALFA alfetta and everything I have
>ever set up.
>
>Chris hall
>On Tue, 14 Aug 2001 16:47:41 +0200 Peter =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Thor=E9n?=
><[email-masked]> writes:
> >
> > Yes Mike, I have, sound gone.
> >
> > I was reading the green bible yesterday. There they describe how to
> > tighten
> > the "flange nut" (?..behind the rear prop). Behind the nut there is
> > a
> > collapsible bushing. If the nut is tightened to hard this bush has
> > to be
> > renewed. Does anyone know what will happen if this nut is tightened
> > to
> > hard? Reason for asking is that PO had changed all axle seals just
> > before I
> > bought the truck and he might just as well have overdone it. Could
> > this
> > cause howling?
> >
> > Thanks for all the response,
> >
> > Peter
> >
> >
> >
> > At 20:38 2001-08-03 +0100, Mike Rogers wrote:
> >
> > >But have you driven it up the road with the rear prop removed as I
> > >suggested?
> > >
> > >Mike Rogers
> > >Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid
> > >LPG V8 110 project (thanks to Marijn)
> > >(if you can't get there in a Land Rover you can't get there)
> > >
> > >
> > >Dear list,
> > >
> > >Some days ago I posted the following mail to the uk-lro list. I got
> > some
> > >really nice responses but now I feel ideas are running out. I hope
> > someone
> > >in this list might be able to help me. In addition to what is
> > written below
> > >(suggestions from Alasdair Worsley) I have also tested to put
> > High-Low
> > >stick in neutral and run the gearbox in 4th gear. This generates no
> > sounds.
> > >I also tested to take away the rear prop shaft and run the gearbox
> > in 4th
> > >gear with some resistance applied to it from the handbrake, again
> > no sound.
> > >Could someone please enlighten me about this mystery?
> > >
> > >Sorry for the crosspost,
> > >
> > >Peter
> > >
> > > >Ever since I bought my 109 (1975 2.25 diesel) back in early 1998
> > it has
> > > >made a howling/whining sound that I always thought came from the
> > gearbox
> > > >or the transfer case. I have made numerous attempts to find out
> > the cause
> > > >including pulling the gearbox three times changing all bearings,
> > bushings
> > > >and checking gears etc. I can say that the gearboxes are as new
> > and I am
> > > >pretty convinced they must be ok. The car also has a high ratio
> > transfer
> > > >case (Ashcrofts) so I have been in contact with Ian and David and
> > they
> > > >told me that it had happened that when drilling the transfer case
> > body in
> > > >order to move the intermediate shaft it has happened that the box
> > starts
> > > >to whine due to slight misalignment of the new hole. They sent me
> > a new
> > > >case and I have moved all parts over but still I get the same
> > sound. The
> > > >car behaves like this:
> > > >
> > > >The howling is most likely there all the time but it get evident
> > at higher
> > > >speed and especially when changing gear to 4th. The sound is
> > increasing in
> > > >strength with speed of car and starts to get really high at
> > approximately
> > > >70 km/h and at 90 km/h (when I manage to get there...) it is
> > really loud
> > > >and your ears get really tired after some time (swmbo uses
> > earprotection).
> > > >Sound is completely gone when pressing the clutch and immediately
> > comes
> > > >back when releasing it. When breaking using the engine  it goes
> > away for a
> > > >second or two and then comes back.
> > > >
> > > >I really need some input on this one. Nothing that I have been
> > doing has
> > > >changed the sound in any way. Oils are new and levels are ok. I
> > have tried
> > > >synthetic oil, STP additive but with no success. Also the rear
> > diff has
> > > >Red line synthetic oil but made no difference. I cant believe
> > this amount
> > > >of sound would be considered normal and I am running out of
> > ideas. Could
> > > >someone pleas help?
> > > >
> > > >Peter
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >------------------------------------------------------------------------
>----
> > >---------------------
> > >Dr. Peter Thorin
> > >PhD, Senior Research Scientist
> > >Head of R&D section
> > >National Veterinary Institute (SVA)
> > >Dept. of Virology, Research and Development
> > >P.O. Box 585; SE-751 23 Uppsala
> > >Sweden
> > >Phone: +46 18 67 43 73
> > >Fax: +46 18 471 45 20
> > >[email-masked]
> > >http://w3.sva.se
> >
> >------------------------------------------------------------------------
>----
> > >----------------------
> > >
> > >_______________________________________________
> > >LRO mailing list
> > >[email-masked]
> > >http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> > >
> > >
> > >_______________________________________________
> > >LRO mailing list
> > >[email-masked]
> > >http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> >
> >
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------
>------------------------
> > Dr. Peter Thorin
> > PhD, Senior Research Scientist
> > Head of R&D section
> > National Veterinary Institute (SVA)
> > Dept. of Virology, Research and Development
> > P.O. Box 585; SE-751 23 Uppsala
> > Sweden
> > Phone: +46 18 67 43 73
> > Fax: +46 18 471 45 20
> > [email-masked]
> > http://w3.sva.se
> >
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------
>-------------------------
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dr. Peter Thorin
PhD, Senior Research Scientist
Head of R&D section
National Veterinary Institute (SVA)
Dept. of Virology, Research and Development
P.O. Box 585; SE-751 23 Uppsala
Sweden
Phone: +46 18 67 43 73
Fax: +46 18 471 45 20
[email-masked]
http://w3.sva.se
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

--__--__--

Message: 2
Subject: Re: [lro] Axle straps
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 01 07:37:32 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Has anyone found an alternative driveshaft that would prevent the neccessity
>of check straps?

Rover uses off the shelf Spicer propshaft ends.  As it happens there are 
two lengths in the style Rover uses and Rover uses the shorter slip 
length version of the two.

When I added plastic sheets between the leaves of my front springs two 
things quickly became apparent:

1. the front shock absorber stops were the limits to downward suspension 
travel and

2. The front prop shaft yolk and splines were at the end of their travel 
and at the point of seperation at the bottom limit. (I also have extended 
shackles which adds a little to the spacing between xfer case and diff)

Item #2 was solved by going to a prop shaft rebuild/fabrication company 
and having them replace the short version of the Spicer yolk and splines 
with the longer version.

The rear shaft on a 109 is a lot longer and can handle the complicated 
dancing the rear diff does rock crawling without a whole lot of yolk 
slippage so I have not addressed it yet.

When I get around to redoing the rear shock mounting system to allow more 
movement in the rear I'll add the longer splines to the rear prop shaft 
as well.

TeriAnn         
                      http://www.overlander.net

  The world's most complete set of links connecting Rover 4X4 owners
  with Rover parts, service, accessory & sales companies world wide.

--__--__--

Message: 3
From: "Andre Shoumatoff" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 10:49:08 -0400
Subject: [lro] Re: axle straps
Reply-To: [email-masked]

From: "Peter M Hope" <[email-masked]>
>I always thought the check straps were to prevent the shocks from bottoming
>out?

Like I was saying there are a number of "off-road" type shocks which I think
can stand the abuse of full extension pretty well.  I suggested Rancho
because it was the first thing that came to my head (although I might be a
little reluctant given some of the products I've seen from them [ie leaf
springs]), but I'm sure there are a number of companies that can do well.
In fact the Rover is the only vehicle I've seen with rear check straps --
maybe I haven't looked well enough -- but given the number of vehicles with
out them I would think even a cheapo set of Sears truck shocks would work OK
on the rear end.  They worked great for me on the rear end of another
vehicle that I off-roaded quite frequently.  In any case, I would think with
a stronger set of shocks and a modified driveshaft perhaps one could take
advantage increased rear articulation.  In my scenario I had my SIII with a
hardtop that flexed quite well.

Andre

>> Has anyone found an alternative driveshaft that would prevent the
>> neccessity of check straps?

--__--__--

Message: 4
From: "Garrick Olsen" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 09:52:06 -0500
Subject: [lro] Keith's vents; my prop
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Keith,
My vents are held open by folded pieces of paperboard; cheap and plentiful- 
also recyclable.  It looks like all of the springs and rods are there, but 
are all rusted fused.  I'll try a rebuild someday.  I read an anecdote about 
a small aspirin bottle used to hold them open- Good storage for First Aid, 
too.  "Give one at onset of chest pain on the way to hospital by 
paramedic..."

Any Ideas from anyone on my:
1. rear prop that won't come apart- collar is off- slides then stops.
2. metal ring in the T-case output that I'm destroying to fit a new seal.  
Ok? Or am I destroying an integral part of the drive line.

-Rik
1960 SWB SW SER II
in Minnesota
We're in our perfect weather days.  We get about 5 per year.

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 5
Subject: Re: [lro] Axle straps
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 01 07:57:29 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>if you aren't sure how close you are to binding the u-joints.

Did that in The Green Rover a year ago last July.  Going up a hill of 
loose dirt and small rocks.  The tyres couldn't find anything to grip on 
that stayed in place.  The suspension started bouncing (i.e. the 
dampeners were not dampening enough) and the short front propshaft  go to 
an angle that caused the front 'U' joint to bind.  Faster than fast the 
front yolk was ripped off the pinion shaft and was bouncing on the 
ground.  Stripped the nut right off the pinion shaft.

I think I solved the problem by adding a wedge between the front leaf 
springs and axle housing to point the nose upwards a little.

I have found myself go'in two wheelin a lot more often that I had planed 
too.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

--__--__--

Message: 6
From: "Simon J. Harding" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 07:52:55 -0700
Subject: [lro] koenig drive shaft
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Peter:  I'll be interested to see what you've come up with..  I have mine set up  with a 1 inch shaft between the two Spicer 1000 series U joints, with a slip jointed U joint at the winch end.  removal is pretty quick already, but quicker would be better, especially if it means more of the drive shaft can stay attached to the winch so one has less shaft stowed in the vehicle.  As mine is, I remove the drive flange bolts at the engine end and set screw at the winch end.  Takes about ten minutes.  I'd love a quick disconnect.

Simon

--__--__--

Message: 7
From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 11:08:10 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] quick oil change valve
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In dealing with extreme cold, motor pool operators in the Arctic and 
Greenland used to fit these valves to trucks and busses so that when a 
breakdown occurred, the motor oil could be quickly drained before it froze.  
These vehicles were always in radio contact with base, so that rescue 
vehicles could be sent out to tow them back to an indoor workplace for 
repairs.  Dumping the oil saved thaw time. 

Paul Donohue
1965 Land Rover 109
Denver

--__--__--

Message: 8
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 17:11:27 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
Organization: AfricanAdrenalin Safaris
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Keith's vents; my prop
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Garrick Olsen wrote:

> 1. rear prop that won't come apart- collar is off- slides then stops.

Use greater force!
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

--__--__--

Message: 9
From: "Simon J. Harding" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 08:09:03 -0700
Subject: [lro] zenith float and annealing
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I put on a believed to be good used zenith before my 1000 mile Steens Mt. Road trip and on my return, I had a black smoke problem.  On the trip I put it down to altitude, but no.   So yesterday I cracked the thing, replaced the O ring, plugged the extraneous port (per BP's website diagram) and replaced the gasket.  I also checked the float level which, per the Green Book, is supposed to be 33 mm at the highest point of the float, to the gasket surface.  Mine was about 40 mm, so I adjusted it, per the book, at the little tab on the floats that rides on the watchacallit in the float chamber.  Put her all back together  (yes, I sinned, I did not glass plate grind or anneal), and the black smoke problem seems to be gone, but on re-adjusting the carb, the engine will  race after I've hit the accelerator, dropping down a few moments later and then dying unless I goose it.  This happens without regard to the idle setting.   Needs to have choke to start and to run, even when warm.  !
I'm wondering if the float level should have been left be and if I somehow caused this problem by adjusting the float.  Can too low a float level cause these symptoms?  I have the idle mixture screw about 2.5 turns out.

	Also, Can someone mail me direct with a quick description of annealing.  I remember one is supposed to take the carb halves to 500 degrees and then lower the temp 50 degrees on the hour  (I think), but I can't remember how one is to run the temperature up.  Also, If the carb is new and (presumably) unwarped, so that glass plate grinding is not necessary, is it necessary to remove the jets/brass bits before annealing?  It seems to me that the jets must be removed to do the glass plate grinding to avoid getting grit in the jets.
simon (three carbs and not one good one among them) in Portland

--__--__--

Message: 10
From: "Simon J. Harding" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 08:25:10 -0700
Subject: [lro] roof vents:use a document clip
Reply-To: [email-masked]

 Well, this is pretty obscure, but someone asked so....  The spring loaded hinge doohicky on one of mine is worn/broken so it won't keep the one just to the rear of the driver open.  Use a medium sized black document binder clip.  The kind made of spring type steel with two little wire chrome handles common around offices.  Clip it on the edge of the opening and stand up one of the handles so it wedges up against the little door, holding it open.  Works great for me.  Keeps my dome cooler.
Simon

--__--__--

Message: 11
From: "Sergi, Michael" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 11:38:52 -0400
Subject: [lro] Brake Bleeding
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I know there are commercial versions but; has anyone used a bicycle tire
tube cut in half to bleed the brakes.  I swear I saw this on this list.  It
seems like you could cut a tire in half and clamp it over the fluid
reservoir.  The other end could then be knotted.  A pump could then be used
to fill the tube and pressurize the reservoir.  A tire gauge could be used
to determine when the proper pressure is reached.

Mike

--__--__--

Message: 12
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 08:54:45 -0700
Subject: [lro] Re: Powder coating wheels
Reply-To: [email-masked]

From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Powder coating wheels
Reply-To: [email-masked]

"Faure, Marin" wrote:
>>   The other camp said sandblast the wheels and
> then have them galvanized.  I don't like the look of galvanized wheels > on a Land Rover,

>You can always paint over the galvanising, but with the galv you'll
never have to worry about that damned rust around the valve stem again,
or chipping and scratching either.

Everyone I've talked to has said painting over galvanizing is an iffy proposition at best.
Apparently, paint or primer don't stick very well to the galvanizing.  It may stay on for a while, 
but eventually it begins to flake off.  The few people I know who have tried painting 
over galvanizing have not had good luck with it over time.  So based on that, it sounds 
like if I want Limestone-colored wheels, sanding, priming, and painting is a much longer -
term solution than galvanizing and then trying to get paint to stay on over the galvanizing.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
Producer/Director, Boeing Video Services
telephone (425)393-7721
mobile (206)650-5622
fax: (425)393-7741
e-mail: [email-masked]

--__--__--

Message: 13
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 10:03:39 -0600
To: [email-masked]
From: Rick Grant <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake Bleeding
Reply-To: [email-masked]

At 11:38 16/08/01 -0400, Sergi, Michael, wrote

>I know there are commercial versions but; has anyone used a bicycle tire
>tube cut in half to bleed the brakes.  I swear I saw this on this list.  It
>seems like you could cut a tire in half and clamp it over the fluid
>reservoir.  The other end could then be knotted.  A pump could then be used
>to fill the tube and pressurize the reservoir.  A tire gauge could be used
>to determine when the proper pressure is reached.

It works well, if a bit fiddly.  I use about a two foot length of cycle 
tire, one end is held on the reservoir with a hose clamp, the other end is 
rolled several times and then clamped off to form a good seal.

You don't need a tire gauge.  Just pump up the tube so it looks like a 
large roll of deli sausage.  The only problem with this is that you must 
take the hose clamp off periodically to ensure that the fluid level is not 
down too far.

I supplement this system with a hand powered vacuum pump at the bleeding end.

                                             Rick Grant

  				  1959 Series II   "88"
				  VORIZO

Rick Grant Communications
Media and Crisis Management
Calgary Ottawa
www.rickgrant.com

--__--__--

Message: 14
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 12:06:15 -0400
From: Perrone Ford <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake Bleeding
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Seems like a hell of a hack to save $40 on a proper bleeder.  How do you 
propose to add more fluid to the reservoir while bleeding?  Or would you 
disconnect this contraption each time you went to a different caliper?

-P

Sergi, Michael wrote:

> I know there are commercial versions but; has anyone used a bicycle tire
> tube cut in half to bleed the brakes.  I swear I saw this on this list.  It
> seems like you could cut a tire in half and clamp it over the fluid
> reservoir.  The other end could then be knotted.  A pump could then be used
> to fill the tube and pressurize the reservoir.  A tire gauge could be used
> to determine when the proper pressure is reached.
> 
> Mike

--__--__--

Message: 15
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Re: Powder coating wheels
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 12:16:11 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

here's an idea...how 'bout galvanizing the wheels...then powdercoating them?
;->)
Marin said>
Everyone I've talked to has said painting over galvanizing is an iffy
proposition at best.
Apparently, paint or primer don't stick very well to the galvanizing.  It
may stay on for a while, 
but eventually it begins to flake off.  The few people I know who have tried
painting 
over galvanizing have not had good luck with it over time.  So based on
that, it sounds 
like if I want Limestone-colored wheels, sanding, priming, and painting is a
much longer -
term solution than galvanizing and then trying to get paint to stay on over
the galvanizing.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
Producer/Director, Boeing Video Services
telephone (425)393-7721
mobile (206)650-5622
fax: (425)393-7741
e-mail: [email-masked]
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 16
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Brake Bleeding
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 12:21:30 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Yes, that's exactly what you do, and for me at least, the process is not
annoying at all...you see I used that $40 dollar savings to purchase some
Newcastle Nut Brown Ale...
8>)

Perrone said:>
Seems like a hell of a hack to save $40 on a proper bleeder.  How do you 
propose to add more fluid to the reservoir while bleeding?  Or would you 
disconnect this contraption each time you went to a different caliper?

--__--__--

Message: 17
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 10:02:16 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Chris <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Re: LRO digest, Vol 1 #44 - 49 msgs
Reply-To: [email-masked]

At 02:08 PM 09/08/01, you wrote:
>[Easton Trevor A]  I  found a good replacement for the water valve
>on a 1984 VW Golf. The water control is an nice plastic in line globe valve
>with a cable operator. Removes the need to have a valve that is threaded
>into the head. Just screw a barbed union instead and put the valve in the
>heater hose where it is most convenient. The action is smooth and throttling
>the water flow so you don't become too hot is easy.

One from an early 80's dodge pickup works well also.

Thanx, Chris

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rocky Mountain Products Inc.
3396 Marine Drive
West Vancouver, BC V7V 1M9
Canada

1-888-880-2600
1-604-921-7277
Fax: 1-604-921-7290

[email-masked]
www.wiseowlparts.com

--__--__--

Message: 18
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 10:15:21 -0700
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] shock bolts
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Anyone happen to know the size of the bolts used on the shocks?  I've got all
the hardware to install the new parabolics and shocks (doing all new bushings
and shackles as well), but don't have the 4 shock bolts.  I could order them,
but I'm sure I can find suitable bolts locally.  It's just sort of a nuisance to
pull into the parking lot, bust off the old bolt, run inside, and find scrounge
around for the replacement.

Jeff

--__--__--

Message: 19
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 10:47:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: DaveB <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] oil leak and transfer case selector issue
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

--- Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]> wrote:

> the oil
> pressure sender is leaking again.  ... Any suggestions or ideas on
how to
> stop this?

i've had them leak through the sender. try replacing the idiot light
sender. there is no 'sender' per se for a mechanical guage. just a
hose. so I presume you mean the dope light sender.

> Also, the transfer case selector regularly jumps out of low. 

you might need to replace one or both of the output gears. big job...
try the spring first. 

dave

=====
DaveB
Arlington, VA
"GreenHELL" '72 SIII 88"- "Unstoppable"
"Red Square" '60 SII 109"- "Purrs like a (leaky) kitten" 

Please ignore the following words from our sponsor:

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--__--__--

Message: 20
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 10:51:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: DaveB <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Behind the T case...
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

--- Garrick Olsen <[email-masked]> wrote:
 am now chewing away at the outside metal retainer ring with the
> Vice-Grips.  Is there a better way to get this out? 

seal puller. big lever w/two hooks on it. in with all the "Lisle" tools
at your local auto parts joint. 

=====
DaveB
Arlington, VA
"GreenHELL" '72 SIII 88"- "Unstoppable"
"Red Square" '60 SII 109"- "Purrs like a (leaky) kitten" 

Please ignore the following words from our sponsor:

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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 19:55:26 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Powder coating wheels
Reply-To: [email-masked]

"Faure, Marin" wrote:
 
> Everyone I've talked to has said painting over galvanizing is an iffy > proposition at best.

I fabricate rocksliders for Disco 1's that we galvanise, spray with
Galvogrip, stonechip, then satin black enamel. And they really go rock
sliding. The paint scratches off in places (as you would expect) but
touch-ups are easy, and the rest of the paint doesn't chip or flake.
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

--__--__--

Message: 22
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 13:55:27 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] shock bolts
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Oh come on Jeff!  Remove a shock at the house, hop in and drive to the store with the thing in your hand.  Those shocks are so shot you won't know the difference anyway!!!!!!!!  :>

>>> [email-masked] 08/16/01 01:15PM >>>

Anyone happen to know the size of the bolts used on the shocks?  I've got all
the hardware to install the new parabolics and shocks (doing all new bushings
and shackles as well), but don't have the 4 shock bolts.  I could order them,
but I'm sure I can find suitable bolts locally.  It's just sort of a nuisance to
pull into the parking lot, bust off the old bolt, run inside, and find scrounge
around for the replacement.

Jeff
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked] 
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 23
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 11:29:53 -0700
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] shock bolts
Reply-To: [email-masked]

You know, you're probably right...

Jeff

RON WARD wrote:

> Oh come on Jeff!  Remove a shock at the house, hop in and drive to the store with the thing in your hand.  Those shocks are so shot you won't know the difference anyway!!!!!!!!  :>
>
> >>> [email-masked] 08/16/01 01:15PM >>>
>
> Anyone happen to know the size of the bolts used on the shocks?  I've got all
> the hardware to install the new parabolics and shocks (doing all new bushings
> and shackles as well), but don't have the 4 shock bolts.  I could order them,
> but I'm sure I can find suitable bolts locally.  It's just sort of a nuisance to
> pull into the parking lot, bust off the old bolt, run inside, and find scrounge
> around for the replacement.
>
> Jeff
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 24
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 11:33:19 -0700
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] oil leak and transfer case selector issue
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Thanks.

It looks like it's the electrical/idiot light sender.  Ordered a new one.
Should have it here today.

The spring on the t-case selector was just barely hanging in there by the
hook on the end.  It just about feel out into my hand when I touched it.  I
put it back into place and will try to fiddle with it this weekend to see
if it holds.

Jeff

DaveB wrote:

> --- Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
> > the oil
> > pressure sender is leaking again.  ... Any suggestions or ideas on
> how to
> > stop this?
>
> i've had them leak through the sender. try replacing the idiot light
> sender. there is no 'sender' per se for a mechanical guage. just a
> hose. so I presume you mean the dope light sender.
>
> > Also, the transfer case selector regularly jumps out of low.
>
> you might need to replace one or both of the output gears. big job...
> try the spring first.
>
> dave
>
> =====
> DaveB
> Arlington, VA
> "GreenHELL" '72 SIII 88"- "Unstoppable"
> "Red Square" '60 SII 109"- "Purrs like a (leaky) kitten"
>
> Please ignore the following words from our sponsor:
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
> http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 25
From: "Sergi, Michael" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Brake Bleeding
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 14:42:42 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

That's the attitude I was looking for from Series owners.  When I have so
many more parts to buy every $40 I save is welcome.

Mike

> 
> 
> Yes, that's exactly what you do, and for me at least, the 
> process is not
> annoying at all...you see I used that $40 dollar savings to 
> purchase some
> Newcastle Nut Brown Ale...
> 8>)
> 
> Perrone said:>
> Seems like a hell of a hack to save $40 on a proper bleeder.  
> How do you 
> propose to add more fluid to the reservoir while bleeding?  
> Or would you 
> disconnect this contraption each time you went to a different caliper?
> _______________________________________________

--__--__--

Message: 26
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 14:53:52 -0400
From: Perrone Ford <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake Bleeding
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Ok, sorry.

-P

Sergi, Michael wrote:

> That's the attitude I was looking for from Series owners.  When I have so
> many more parts to buy every $40 I save is welcome.
> 
> Mike

--__--__--

Message: 27
From: "Sergi, Michael" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Brake Bleeding
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 14:54:45 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Perrone,

I looked at the power bleeder on your site and like the set-up.  It would be
good for the RR.  My biggest concern is finding a cap with a power bleeder
that fits the old style reservoir in my early IIA.

Mike

--__--__--

Message: 28
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 21:18:09 +0200
From: Christian Kiel <[email-masked]>
To: Landy Liste <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Removing Brake Drums
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Ok, does anyone has a good working idea, how to remove the Brake Drums
from my ex-MoD Series III 109. I have slacken the brake adjusters,
removed the brake drum fixings and used a hammer like a madman. Nothing.
Opened a beer, called a friend, used the Hammer. Nothing.
--
 Christian ;-}

If at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence that you tried.

--__--__--

Message: 29
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Removing Brake Drums
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 15:27:43 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Take a closer look at your drums...you will eventually see/discover a
tapped/threaded hole...it's there for inserting a bolt (3/8-16?? x 2" or
3"), which contacts the stud plate and serves as a "puller" of sorts, though
in this instance I guess it "pushes" the drum off...try it, you'll like it!

JT/ric
Christian said:>
Ok, does anyone has a good working idea, how to remove the Brake Drums
from my ex-MoD Series III 109. I have slacken the brake adjusters,
removed the brake drum fixings and used a hammer like a madman. Nothing.
Opened a beer, called a friend, used the Hammer. Nothing.
--
 Christian ;-}

--__--__--

Message: 30
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 15:37:22 -0400
From: Perrone Ford <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake Bleeding
Reply-To: [email-masked]

According to my friend with a 67 IIa, his cap was the same as the 1993 
defender.  My cap fits a 1993 defender.

-P

Sergi, Michael wrote:

> Perrone,
> 
> I looked at the power bleeder on your site and like the set-up.  It would be
> good for the RR.  My biggest concern is finding a cap with a power bleeder
> that fits the old style reservoir in my early IIA.
> 
> Mike

--__--__--

Message: 31
From: "Sergi, Michael" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Brake Bleeding
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 16:15:14 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

That might work, but I am not sure about when LR changed to the metal to
plastic reservoir and if the cap sizes are different between them.

Mike

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Perrone Ford [mailto:[email-masked]]
> Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 2:37 PM
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: [lro] Brake Bleeding
> 
> 
> 
> According to my friend with a 67 IIa, his cap was the same as 
> the 1993 
> defender.  My cap fits a 1993 defender.
> 
> -P
> 
> Sergi, Michael wrote:
> 
> > Perrone,
> > 
> > I looked at the power bleeder on your site and like the 
> set-up.  It would be
> > good for the RR.  My biggest concern is finding a cap with 
> a power bleeder
> > that fits the old style reservoir in my early IIA.
> > 
> > Mike
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 32
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: [lro] Brake Bleeding
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 10:53:10 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

You can make up an adapter with a short piece of bicycle tube and some hose 
clamps.  Make a cuff at each end and slip one end of the inner tube over the 
bleeder cap and the other end over the reservoir and secure with hose 
clamps.  Wrap the lash up in duct, plastic wrapping, or reinforced tape so 
it doesn't blow up under pressure.  Kind of a hassle but works.  Biggest 
problem is keeping the reservoir full but most of the pressure systems have 
ways to add fluid to the pump and pump it into the reservoir.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

>From: "Sergi, Michael" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
>Subject: RE: [lro] Brake Bleeding
>Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 16:15:14 -0400
>
>
>That might work, but I am not sure about when LR changed to the metal to
>plastic reservoir and if the cap sizes are different between them.
>
>Mike
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Perrone Ford [mailto:[email-masked]]
> > Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 2:37 PM
> > To: [email-masked]
> > Subject: Re: [lro] Brake Bleeding
> >
> >
> >
> > According to my friend with a 67 IIa, his cap was the same as
> > the 1993
> > defender.  My cap fits a 1993 defender.
> >
> > -P
> >
> > Sergi, Michael wrote:
> >
> > > Perrone,
> > >
> > > I looked at the power bleeder on your site and like the
> > set-up.  It would be
> > > good for the RR.  My biggest concern is finding a cap with
> > a power bleeder
> > > that fits the old style reservoir in my early IIA.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

_________________________________________________________________
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--__--__--

Message: 33
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake Bleeding
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 11:04:27 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I tried it with interesting results.  Ever take a bath in brake fluid???  
Gave up after blowing up 3-4 tubes.  Good thing I was using sillycone fluid 
so i didn't remove the paint from the front half of the car.  Suppose you 
could wrap the whole tube in tape to prevent it from exploding.  You 
probably wouldn't have the ability to keep pressure at a high level, 
however, like you do with a pressure pump.  If you don't need a lot of 
pressure, the tube works, over 5 lbs forget it.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

>From: Perrone Ford <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: [email-masked]
>Subject: Re: [lro] Brake Bleeding
>Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 12:06:15 -0400
>
>
>Seems like a hell of a hack to save $40 on a proper bleeder.  How do you
>propose to add more fluid to the reservoir while bleeding?  Or would you
>disconnect this contraption each time you went to a different caliper?
>
>-P
>
>Sergi, Michael wrote:
>
>>I know there are commercial versions but; has anyone used a bicycle tire
>>tube cut in half to bleed the brakes.  I swear I saw this on this list.  
>>It
>>seems like you could cut a tire in half and clamp it over the fluid
>>reservoir.  The other end could then be knotted.  A pump could then be 
>>used
>>to fill the tube and pressurize the reservoir.  A tire gauge could be used
>>to determine when the proper pressure is reached.
>>
>>Mike
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 34
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: [lro] Used switches, could USED be the problem.
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 21:10:10 +0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Could be Peter but at (I believe) $265 USD for a new one I have no other 
option. I really want to keep that style switch if at all possible.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
--author unknown

_________________________________________________________________
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--__--__--

Message: 35
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: axle straps
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 11:18:22 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Just because you don't see other vehicles with something that is stock on 
the Rover, don't think its because the other vehicle designers know better.  
Rovers are designed for the real out back, others are designed for out back 
behind the mall.

Personally, I think the straps are to protect the u-joint.  Jack up the rear 
of the truck by the frame.  Crawl under the truck and rotate the drive 
shaft.  On an 88 especially, there is almost no clearance between the pieces 
of the u-joint.  Add acceleration to increase axle droop and your going to 
bind up the u-joint.  From TeriAnn's message, it would seem that failure is 
instantaneous and catastrophic if it binds enough.

Having said that, I drove my 88, with stock springsm, for ages without check 
straps and never had a problem.  I didn't get into situations where I had a 
lot of axle tramp, however.  Put the straps on when I switched to parabolics 
though the straps supplied by TI Console and RM are much longer than the 
stock straps.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

>From: "Andre Shoumatoff" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: <[email-masked]>
>Subject: [lro] Re: axle straps
>Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 10:49:08 -0400
>
>
>From: "Peter M Hope" <[email-masked]>
> >I always thought the check straps were to prevent the shocks from 
>bottoming
> >out?
>
>Like I was saying there are a number of "off-road" type shocks which I 
>think
>can stand the abuse of full extension pretty well.  I suggested Rancho
>because it was the first thing that came to my head (although I might be a
>little reluctant given some of the products I've seen from them [ie leaf
>springs]), but I'm sure there are a number of companies that can do well.
>In fact the Rover is the only vehicle I've seen with rear check straps --
>maybe I haven't looked well enough -- but given the number of vehicles with
>out them I would think even a cheapo set of Sears truck shocks would work 
>OK
>on the rear end.  They worked great for me on the rear end of another
>vehicle that I off-roaded quite frequently.  In any case, I would think 
>with
>a stronger set of shocks and a modified driveshaft perhaps one could take
>advantage increased rear articulation.  In my scenario I had my SIII with a
>hardtop that flexed quite well.
>
>Andre
>
> >> Has anyone found an alternative driveshaft that would prevent the
> >> neccessity of check straps?
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

_________________________________________________________________
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--__--__--

Message: 36
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: [lro] Used switches, could USED be the problem.
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 11:28:31 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Only $265, hell buy four of them.  Didn't know we were talking about solid 
gold, here.  Your talking the early 2a type switch, right??  Guess I'm going 
to order up some relays before I have to think about replacing my switches.  
Think I'll go dig out my spare switch and store it in the refrigerator or 
some other low corrosion location.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

>From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
>Could be Peter but at (I believe) $265 USD for a new one I have no other 
>option. I really want to keep that style switch if at all possible.
>Niall Forbes

_________________________________________________________________
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--__--__--

Message: 37
From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 20:13:48 -0400
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] quick oil change valve 
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi Gerald,

I first saw those quick oil change valves about 15 or 20 years ago and only saw them on the shelves at local auto parts stores for about a year.  I thought that they had gone out of production.

At the time they cost about $5 a piece.  The website's price of $27.50 is really outrageous!  Inflation hasn't gone up that much!!!!!

Although I put them in 3 or 4 vehicles and didn't have any problems, I probably wouldn't want to put it in a vehicle that would venture far off-road and take the chance of banging it on a rock and lossing all your engine oil.

Regards,
Ray Burton

--__--__--

Message: 38
To: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 19:30:01 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] Howling 109 SIII
From: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

You bet!
On Thu, 16 Aug 2001 12:14:02 +0200 Peter =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Thor=E9n?=
<[email-masked]> writes:
> 
> Could this cause the howling noice?
> 
> Peter
> 
> At 22:26 2001-08-14 -0700, you wrote:
> 
> >It over crushes the crush collar.  That would pull the pinion out 
> of mesh
> >with the ring gear.  I'm guessing that you have a Salisbury axle.  
> You
> >could check gear mesh by pulling the back cover, cleaning the teeth 
> with
> >brake cleaner then painting the teeth with "layout blue" (Dykem 
> being the
> >big name), then turn the pinion.  After one turn of the ring gear 
> look at
> >the area where the pinion has worn the "blue " away.  Any text on 
> diff
> >rebuilds should have pictures or diagrams of what and where the 
> contact
> >area should be.  Contact patterns are pretty much generic,  what 
> works
> >for a Honda passport also works for a ALFA alfetta and everything I 
> have
> >ever set up.
> >
> >Chris hall
> >On Tue, 14 Aug 2001 16:47:41 +0200 Peter =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Thor=E9n?=
> ><[email-masked]> writes:
> > >
> > > Yes Mike, I have, sound gone.
> > >
> > > I was reading the green bible yesterday. There they describe how 
> to
> > > tighten
> > > the "flange nut" (?..behind the rear prop). Behind the nut there 
> is
> > > a
> > > collapsible bushing. If the nut is tightened to hard this bush 
> has
> > > to be
> > > renewed. Does anyone know what will happen if this nut is 
> tightened
> > > to
> > > hard? Reason for asking is that PO had changed all axle seals 
> just
> > > before I
> > > bought the truck and he might just as well have overdone it. 
> Could
> > > this
> > > cause howling?
> > >
> > > Thanks for all the response,
> > >
> > > Peter
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > At 20:38 2001-08-03 +0100, Mike Rogers wrote:
> > >
> > > >But have you driven it up the road with the rear prop removed 
> as I
> > > >suggested?
> > > >
> > > >Mike Rogers
> > > >Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid
> > > >LPG V8 110 project (thanks to Marijn)
> > > >(if you can't get there in a Land Rover you can't get there)
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Dear list,
> > > >
> > > >Some days ago I posted the following mail to the uk-lro list. I 
> got
> > > some
> > > >really nice responses but now I feel ideas are running out. I 
> hope
> > > someone
> > > >in this list might be able to help me. In addition to what is
> > > written below
> > > >(suggestions from Alasdair Worsley) I have also tested to put
> > > High-Low
> > > >stick in neutral and run the gearbox in 4th gear. This 
> generates no
> > > sounds.
> > > >I also tested to take away the rear prop shaft and run the 
> gearbox
> > > in 4th
> > > >gear with some resistance applied to it from the handbrake, 
> again
> > > no sound.
> > > >Could someone please enlighten me about this mystery?
> > > >
> > > >Sorry for the crosspost,
> > > >
> > > >Peter
> > > >
> > > > >Ever since I bought my 109 (1975 2.25 diesel) back in early 
> 1998
> > > it has
> > > > >made a howling/whining sound that I always thought came from 
> the
> > > gearbox
> > > > >or the transfer case. I have made numerous attempts to find 
> out
> > > the cause
> > > > >including pulling the gearbox three times changing all 
> bearings,
> > > bushings
> > > > >and checking gears etc. I can say that the gearboxes are as 
> new
> > > and I am
> > > > >pretty convinced they must be ok. The car also has a high 
> ratio
> > > transfer
> > > > >case (Ashcrofts) so I have been in contact with Ian and David 
> and
> > > they
> > > > >told me that it had happened that when drilling the transfer 
> case
> > > body in
> > > > >order to move the intermediate shaft it has happened that the 
> box
> > > starts
> > > > >to whine due to slight misalignment of the new hole. They 
> sent me
> > > a new
> > > > >case and I have moved all parts over but still I get the 
> same
> > > sound. The
> > > > >car behaves like this:
> > > > >
> > > > >The howling is most likely there all the time but it get 
> evident
> > > at higher
> > > > >speed and especially when changing gear to 4th. The sound is
> > > increasing in
> > > > >strength with speed of car and starts to get really high at
> > > approximately
> > > > >70 km/h and at 90 km/h (when I manage to get there...) it is
> > > really loud
> > > > >and your ears get really tired after some time (swmbo uses
> > > earprotection).
> > > > >Sound is completely gone when pressing the clutch and 
> immediately
> > > comes
> > > > >back when releasing it. When breaking using the engine  it 
> goes
> > > away for a
> > > > >second or two and then comes back.
> > > > >
> > > > >I really need some input on this one. Nothing that I have 
> been
> > > doing has
> > > > >changed the sound in any way. Oils are new and levels are ok. 
> I
> > > have tried
> > > > >synthetic oil, STP additive but with no success. Also the 
> rear
> > > diff has
> > > > >Red line synthetic oil but made no difference. I cant 
> believe
> > > this amount
> > > > >of sound would be considered normal and I am running out of
> > > ideas. Could
> > > > >someone pleas help?
> > > > >
> > > > >Peter
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > 
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >----
> > > >---------------------
> > > >Dr. Peter Thorin
> > > >PhD, Senior Research Scientist
> > > >Head of R&D section
> > > >National Veterinary Institute (SVA)
> > > >Dept. of Virology, Research and Development
> > > >P.O. Box 585; SE-751 23 Uppsala
> > > >Sweden
> > > >Phone: +46 18 67 43 73
> > > >Fax: +46 18 471 45 20
> > > >[email-masked]
> > > >http://w3.sva.se
> > >
> > 
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >----
> > > >----------------------
> > > >
> > > >_______________________________________________
> > > >LRO mailing list
> > > >[email-masked]
> > > >http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >_______________________________________________
> > > >LRO mailing list
> > > >[email-masked]
> > > >http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> > >
> > >
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
> >------------------------
> > > Dr. Peter Thorin
> > > PhD, Senior Research Scientist
> > > Head of R&D section
> > > National Veterinary Institute (SVA)
> > > Dept. of Virology, Research and Development
> > > P.O. Box 585; SE-751 23 Uppsala
> > > Sweden
> > > Phone: +46 18 67 43 73
> > > Fax: +46 18 471 45 20
> > > [email-masked]
> > > http://w3.sva.se
> > >
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
> >-------------------------
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > LRO mailing list
> > > [email-masked]
> > > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> >_______________________________________________
> >LRO mailing list
> >[email-masked]
> >http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> 
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------
> Dr. Peter Thorin
> PhD, Senior Research Scientist
> Head of R&D section
> National Veterinary Institute (SVA)
> Dept. of Virology, Research and Development
> P.O. Box 585; SE-751 23 Uppsala
> Sweden
> Phone: +46 18 67 43 73
> Fax: +46 18 471 45 20
> [email-masked]
> http://w3.sva.se
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 39
From: Gerald <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] quick oil change valve 
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 21:32:00 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Ray,

The opinion on these has been pretty consistent. Perhaps they are so
expensive now because they are antiques.

Thanks

On Thu, 16 Aug 2001 20:13:48 -0400, you wrote:

>
>Hi Gerald,
>
>I first saw those quick oil change valves about 15 or 20 years ago and only saw them on the shelves at local auto parts stores for about a year.  I thought that they had gone out of production.
>
>At the time they cost about $5 a piece.  The website's price of $27.50 is really outrageous!  Inflation hasn't gone up that much!!!!!
>
>Although I put them in 3 or 4 vehicles and didn't have any problems, I probably wouldn't want to put it in a vehicle that would venture far off-road and take the chance of banging it on a rock and lossing all your engine oil.
>
>Regards,
>Ray Burton

--
Gerald
[email-masked]

--__--__--

Message: 40
From: "Peter Thomson" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake Bleeding
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 21:59:31 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

G'Day,
         I have been bleeding brakes for ever and the only system that I
found that required a pressure bleeder was on the air over hyd system which
was on the Commer Trucks. And some army units. For your Rover all you need
is a length of hose that will fit over the bleeder and a bottle (I use a
juse bottle so I can use the lid and put a hole in it for the hose.) Make
shore the hose is to the bottom of the jar and the end is covered with
fluid. Starting from the farthest away cylinder push the hose onto the
bleeder and crack open and pump away.( Two is better but with this system
you can do it on your own) Keep pumping till no more air is present and then
go to the next and repeat the process. I works for me every time.   You can
flush youe system this way. Just dodn't run out of fluid and keep the hose
in the jar under fluid. Total cost of  bleeder Free.     Peter.

----- Original Message -----
From: Sergi, Michael <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 2:54 PM
Subject: RE: [lro] Brake Bleeding

>
> Perrone,
>
> I looked at the power bleeder on your site and like the set-up.  It would
be
> good for the RR.  My biggest concern is finding a cap with a power bleeder
> that fits the old style reservoir in my early IIA.
>
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 41
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 05:13:16 +0200
From: Par Leijonhufvud <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake Bleeding
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Peter Thomson <[email-masked]> [2001.08.17] wrote:

> Total cost of  bleeder Free.     Peter.

Last I did this I had to pay for the hose. I used a clear glass bottle,
since it had more of a tendency to stay where I put it than a plastic
one.

/Par

-- 
Par Leijonhufvud                                      [email-masked]
STOP PLATE TECTONICS NOW!  

--__--__--

Message: 42
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Used switches, could USED be the problem.
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 23:51:57 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Niall, I fried an ignition switch of that type quickly, routing too much
power through it. I suggest getting relays with wiring pigtails from your
local supplier to power up your ignition, headlights, etc... Basically, one
for every different circuit in the switch, and using these to handle the
amps. This keeps little current flowing through your switch, and you get
minimal V drop across the circuit as relays are straight through.  Even an
old switch can handle .5A...

As far as what it frying the switch, running relays would mean you could
isolate the excessive draw quickly if you needed to. I think you probably
just have a load of amps running though the switch as you have halogen
headlights and that ignition system. With three relays (headlights,
ignition, running lights) or even four, energized by the switch, you'd be
home free. They are easy to wire up as well.

I think this is the best thing as it is inexpensive... it might not go about
finding what fries your switch, you might keep eating relays, but at least
they are dirt cheap, and you'll be able to tell what circuit is munching
amps... Plus, you can always swap a relay by the side of the road...

J-L

----- Original Message -----
From: N Forbes <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 5:10 PM
Subject: RE: [lro] Used switches, could USED be the problem.

>
> Could be Peter but at (I believe) $265 USD for a new one I have no other
> option. I really want to keep that style switch if at all possible.
>
> Niall Forbes
> 66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
> Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
> The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm
>
> "See the happy moron,
> He doesn't give a damn.
> I wish I were a moron.
> My God! Perhaps I am!"
> --author unknown
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 43
From: "Peter Thomson" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake Bleeding
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 00:15:57 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I work in the trade, so there is a few things I don't pay for. Peter.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: Par Leijonhufvud <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 11:13 PM
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake Bleeding

> 
> Peter Thomson <[email-masked]> [2001.08.17] wrote:
> 
> > Total cost of  bleeder Free.     Peter.
> 
> Last I did this I had to pay for the hose. I used a clear glass bottle,
> since it had more of a tendency to stay where I put it than a plastic
> one.
> 
> /Par
> 
> -- 
> Par Leijonhufvud                                      [email-masked]
> STOP PLATE TECTONICS NOW!  
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

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