Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #52 - 46 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 03:07:27 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: IIA tranny problems (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
   2. Re: LRO digest, Vol 1 #51 - 8 msgs ([email-masked])
   3. Re: Help with Local LR Resources (Rolston)
   4. Re: Re: Powder coating wheels (Paul Oxley)
   5. Re: South Georgia Boys (RON WARD)
   6. Re: Vincent Black Shadow (was Was that you...) (Bill Adams)
   7. Re: IIA tranny problems (Dave Risk)
   8. Re: Roof Vents (KEITH ARMSTRONG)
   9. Spray can sand? (george kase)
  10. RE: Re: Roof Vents (Easton Trevor A)
  11. Re: Help with Local LR Resources (Jerrod)
  12. Re: Help with Local LR Resources (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  13. Re: Help with Local LR Resources (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  14. Re: 7:1 compression test (Mark Pilkington)
  15. Roverfest 2000 (A. P. (Sandy) Grice)
  16. Diesels (A. P. (Sandy) Grice)
  17. Prop shaft (A. P. (Sandy) Grice)
  18. RE: 7:1 compression test (Easton Trevor A)
  19. Exploding Rangies (Easton Trevor A)
  20. Re: Exploding Rangies - What a Fright! (CW - Carey Woodings)
  21. quick oil change valve (Gerald)
  22. Re: quick oil change valve ([email-masked])
  23. Re: Resurecting Red Zit (N Forbes)
  24. RE: Resurecting Red Zit (N Forbes)
  25. RE: Used switches, could USED be the problem. (Peter Ogilvie)
  26. Re: quick oil change valve (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  27. Re: Resurecting Red Zit (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  28. trannie (William L Leacock)
  29. Two cross ref numbers needed - PCV valve and Spark Plug (Nick Danger)
  30. Re: Exploding Rangies (d.h.lowe)
  31. Re: Two cross ref numbers needed - PCV valve and Spark
       Plug (Mark  Love)
  32. Re: Axle straps (Andre Shoumatoff)
  33. Re: Two cross ref numbers needed - PCV valve and Spark
       Plug (Jim Hall)
  34. Re: Resurecting Red Zit ([email-masked])
  35. Re: Two cross ref numbers needed - PCV valve and Spark
       Plug ([email-masked])
  36. Re: South Georgia Boys (Winn Bearden)
  37. Re: Axle straps (Jim Hall)
  38. Re: 200 tdi (Winn Bearden)
  39. Re: Two cross ref numbers needed - PCV valve and Spark
       Plug (G. Mugele)
  40. RE: South Georgia Boys (Perrone Ford)
  41. Re: Axle straps (Peter M Hope)
  42. Koenig drive shaft. (Peter M Hope)

--__--__--

Message: 1
Subject: Re: [lro] IIA tranny problems
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 06:44:44 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

JL, sounds to me like the synchro is jamming. Have you had a look to make
sure all the springs and the like are in place?

                    ajr

--__--__--

Message: 2
From: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 06:58:30 EDT
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Re: LRO digest, Vol 1 #51 - 8 msgs
Reply-To: [email-masked]

--__--__--

Message: 3
From: "Rolston" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Help with Local LR Resources
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 07:32:10 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

We have a complete rover rear axle, brake drum to brake drum that I just
took of our 1968 ambulance.  $250 or best offer, and we are in souther
Connecticut.  Jim

--__--__--

Message: 4
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 13:26:31 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Powder coating wheels
Reply-To: [email-masked]

"Faure, Marin" wrote:
>   The other camp said sandblast the wheels and
> then have them galvanized.  I don't like the look of galvanized wheels > on a Land Rover,

For shame, Marin...

You can always paint over the galvanising, but with the galv you'll
never have to worry about that damned rust around the valve stem again,
or chipping and scratching either.
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

--__--__--

Message: 5
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 08:14:59 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] South Georgia Boys
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hey Winn,

Y'all coming up for the Tellico ride this weekend??

Ron

>>> [email-masked] 08/14/01 10:11PM >>>

I saw him today as a matter of fact.  He helped me adjust the valves on
my 200 TDi.  (229)386-8498

Perrone Ford wrote:

> Any of you guys from S. Ga, got the new number for Steve Johnson at
> Dixieland Rovers?  My number for him doesn't seem to be working.
>
> -P
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked] 
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro 

--
Winn Bearden          19XX SIIa/SIII/RR 100" Hybrid
P.O. Box 464          1967 NADA 109" SW (in pieces)
Americus, GA 31709    1996 4.0 SE
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked] 
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 6
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 08:16:52 -0400
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Organization: U.S. International Broadcasting Bureau
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Vincent Black Shadow (was Was that you...)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Come to British Motorcycle Day at Butler's orchard here in Gaithersburg,
MD next June. You'll see more VBSs in one place at one time than
anywhere else outside Blighty. They are usually "trailer queens" (
there's one that shows up every year with exactly 13 miles on the
oddometer, looking factory fresh ) but one or two are actual daily
drivers. They look small, especially when someone's in the saddle' but
they are packed with go go power. Big motor + small bike = fast. The
bridge girder front end leaves something to be desired in the handling
department, and drum brakes make for interesting stopping events I'm
sure.
-- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

--__--__--

Message: 7
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 09:30:48 -0300
From: Dave Risk <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Re: IIA tranny problems
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hey J-L
I'd say that it is the synchro that's gone.  Sounds like it could be missing a spring, but
I'd be inclined to take the box out if there are some bits of hard steel lying around in
there, or if you don't know how long it's been toast (the Rover is new to you, right?).  If
the spring has been gone for a while, the faces or teeth of the synchro  might be screwed
up.   And make a removeable x-member for yourself while it's out - makes tranny removal a 30
minute job.
Cheers, Dave
---
Dave Risk
69 IIA

--__--__--

Message: 8
From: "KEITH ARMSTRONG" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 07:35:23 -0500
Subject: [lro] Re: Roof Vents
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Ok, here's a simple (yet annoying) question.

How do folks keep their roof vents (the little oval ones) open while
driving?  Mine always vibrate closed and proceed to rattle at the next
stoplight.

tia,

Keith Armstrong
Des Moines, Iowa

--__--__--

Message: 9
Date: 15 Aug 2001 08:37:24 -0500
From: george kase <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Spray can sand?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Does anyone know if there is a spray can approximation of the 
Rover sand color? Rust O leum? Krylon?
thanks
George Kase

--__--__--

Message: 10
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Re: Roof Vents
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 09:55:13 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

The roof vent should have a prop that consists of a hinged mechanism with a
spring loaded latch that keeps the roof vent open or closed. There are two
pins sticking out from the side of the prop that you pull on to release the
latch.
If yours doesnt have these and you are not too concerned about originality
then a small gas strut suitably configured would work well or just small
spring set up to hold the vent open, collapse the springby pulling on its
centre and the vent closes. (you can find these in a larger version at the
boat chandlery as hatch props)

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	KEITH ARMSTRONG [SMTP:[email-masked]]
> Sent:	Wednesday, August 15, 2001 8:35 AM
> To:	[email-masked]
> Subject:	[lro] Re: Roof Vents
> 
> 
> Ok, here's a simple (yet annoying) question.
> 
> How do folks keep their roof vents (the little oval ones) open while
> driving?  Mine always vibrate closed and proceed to rattle at the next
> stoplight.
> 
> tia,
> 
> Keith Armstrong
> Des Moines, Iowa
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 11
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 07:31:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jerrod <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Help with Local LR Resources
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

would that fit on a '89RR???
Peace,
Jerrod.
--- Rolston <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> We have a complete rover rear axle, brake drum to
> brake drum that I just
> took of our 1968 ambulance.  $250 or best offer, and
> we are in souther
> Connecticut.  Jim
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/

--__--__--

Message: 12
Subject: Re: [lro] Help with Local LR Resources
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 10:39:44 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

would that fit on a '89RR???
Peace,
Jerrod.
--- Rolston <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
> We have a complete rover rear axle, brake drum to
> brake drum that I just
> took of our 1968 ambulance.

No. Wrong brakes, wrong mounts, wrong diff ratio....

                    ajr

--__--__--

Message: 13
Subject: Re: [lro] Help with Local LR Resources
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 07:42:48 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

  $250 or best offer, and we are in souther
Connecticut.  Jim

Install it for him and he might take you up on it.....8*)

          aj"That is a very good price!"r

--__--__--

Message: 14
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 08:08:48 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] 7:1 compression test
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I think that the high is 110 and it should not go below 80 though there
were some 86's and 88's and a lot are 109. Ha Ha. Sorry.
Mark Pilkington

Jeff Bieler wrote:

> Finally got around to testing engine compression (still fiddling with
> the carb which I think is running OK now, but I've got to track down a
> vacuum leak...).
>
> Anyway, there was a page that showed what to look for in compression.
> After getting the engine up to operating temp and pulling the plugs, I
> got the following readings from a screw in gauge:
>
> Cylinder        Reading
> 1                    110PSI
> 2                    110PSI
> 3                    108PSI
> 4                    109PSI
>
> I know it's good news that they are very close which is nice.  I'm just
> wondering how low this is over all.  Being that it's still the original
> 7:1 head, I know I'll be lower then most folk.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jeff
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 15
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 11:22:43 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: "A. P. (Sandy) Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Roverfest 2000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>

>last year it was about 250.  I was going to say it looks like less than half
>that this year.

No way...more like 175 in 2000....

--__--__--

Message: 16
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 11:22:44 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: "A. P. (Sandy) Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Diesels
Reply-To: [email-masked]

[email-masked]

>    The change in wheelbase was to accomidate the 2.0 L diesel, not the
2.25. 
> The 2.25L diesel did not come out until until 1961 with the introduction of 
>the SIIA.  The 2.0L diesel was fitted to all SI and SII diesels.

Are you sure about this?  From what I've read, the 2.25 diesel was actually
designed and developed first, and the petrol used the same block, in
typical Rover fashion, to save a few quid on tooling and casting costs.  A
chicken-and-the-egg kind of situation, but I'm almost certain that the
diesel 2.25 actually ran first....or at least that's what is stated in "The
Workhorse of the World".

The wheelbase change came in late 1957 - as you say, to accomodate the 2.0
diesel which "was fitted to all SI and SII diesels."  Yet the wheelbase
change marked the dividing line between "Land Rovers" and the Series II.
(Technically, the original, 1948-1957 models were simply called
Land-Rovers, as the Series I didn't exist until the Series II was
introduced.)  I still think that the reason for the lenghtening was the
introduction of the 2.25 diesel.

Cheers

--__--__--

Message: 17
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 11:22:46 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: "A. P. (Sandy) Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Prop shaft
Reply-To: [email-masked]

"Garrick Olsen" <[email-masked]> wrote:

> I thought I'd install that rubber boot
>over the drive shaft while the prop is down.  The two halves will only
>slip so far and then they stop.  I have the collar off.  Is there
>somthing else to remove/ loosen? Bigger hammer?   

Just be aware that there is a toothed fibre washer inside the screw-on
collar that seals out the crud and keeps in the grease...and it is made of
unobtainium.

A torn washer can be made whole again by careful cleaning and glueing.
(Don't ask me how I know....)

Cheers

	*-----"jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is legendary"----*
	|                 A. P. "Sandy" Grice                  |
	|    The Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd    |
	|     1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
	|     757-622-7054  (H)423-4898  (FAX)757-622-7056     |
	*------------------------------------------------------*

--__--__--

Message: 18
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] 7:1 compression test
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 11:14:57 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Some rare examples go up to 130

> I think that the high is 110 and it should not go below 80 though there
> were some 86's and 88's and a lot are 109. Ha Ha. Sorry.
> Mark Pilkington

--__--__--

Message: 19
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>,
   "[email-masked]'"
  <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 14:28:01 -0400
Subject: [lro] Exploding Rangies
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Give your frustrations with your Land Rover some release and see "Exit
Wounds" with Steven Segal. Several exploding and otherwise destroy RRs.
Courtesy of Jack Union in Bolton, Ont

--__--__--

Message: 20
From: "CW - Carey Woodings" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Exploding Rangies - What a Fright!
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 14:07:39 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

[Trevor Easton suggests:
[Subject: [lro] Exploding Rangies

DON'T DO THAT TO ME TREVOR!!!
I just bought an old Range Rover and you gave me visions of it spontaneously 
blowing up while driving down the road!

[...see "Exit Wounds" with Steven Segal.
[Several exploding and otherwise destroy RRs.

I'll have to rent that (although I don't much care for Segal's "acting" 
abilities).
      ____________
     /____________\     Cheers,   CW
     !     !!     !
     !_____!!_____!
   O !===[[[]]]===! O
    \__ -------- __/
    !..!( )##( )!..!      Carey Woodings             AND NOW
    !  !########!  !      "Nessie the Antique        a 1988
    !  !#O####O#!  !      Monster" Bronze Green      Range Rover
    ================      1962 SIIA SWB SW           For SWMBO
     !!      ~   !!
     !!  ~~ ~ ~~ !!       1968 SIIA LWB Marshall Bodied
           ~~             Ambulance awaiting restoration

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 21
From: Gerald <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 18:04:30 -0400
Subject: [lro] quick oil change valve
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Has anyone experience or opinions on the quick oil change valve?
http://www.auto.lu/landrover/Maintenance.html

Thanks

--
Gerald
[email-masked]

--__--__--

Message: 22
From: <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] quick oil change valve
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 00:10:47 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Looks like a really good way to lose all your oil just when you need it
most........#:o)

Chaz

>
>Has anyone experience or opinions on the quick oil change valve?
>http://www.auto.lu/landrover/Maintenance.html
>
>Thanks
>
>--
>Gerald

--__--__--

Message: 23
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Resurecting Red Zit
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 00:35:28 +0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>When you say the switch is burning out - which section?
>
>                     ajr

I'm not sure. These are the symptoms. At first the ignition will cut out 
intermitently while driving and then cut back in. When this happens I lose 
power to the gauges etc also. Some times I might have to jiggle the key or 
turn it on and off repeatedly to get the truck to start (I watch for the 
fuel gauge to go up and I think the charge light too but now that I think 
about it, maybe not the charge light). Eventually the switch just won't work 
any more.

I've taken the switches apart and can't really find any problems but then I 
don't really know what I'm looking for.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
--author unknown

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 24
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: [lro] Resurecting Red Zit
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 00:38:10 +0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>I had a similar problem with the switch on Miss G. It turns out that
>it's not burning out but wearing out. I dismantled the switch and

I thought that too but I'm on my third (used) switch in less than a year and 
not very many miles.

If it makes any difference I've got Lumenition electronic ignition but that 
seems to be working fine.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
--author unknown

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 25
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: [lro] Used switches, could USED be the problem.
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 14:58:09 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

3rd 'USED' switch.  Could 'USED' be the operative word here.  Have done a 
lot of swapping of used parts.  Seem to find that parts that wear out on one 
truck, are worn out on all the others.  3 water pumps in a month got me real 
fast at pulling the breakfast.  Finally ran out of used parts and bought a 
new one.  Eureka!! no more water pump swapping.  Did the same thing with the 
foot starter switch but it was a lot easier to swap out and finally turned 
into a dash mounted push button

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

>
>I thought that too but I'm on my third (used) switch in less than a year 
>and
>not very many miles.
>
>If it makes any difference I've got Lumenition electronic ignition but that
>seems to be working fine.
>
>
>Niall Forbes
>66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
>Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
>The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm
>
>"See the happy moron,
>He doesn't give a damn.
>I wish I were a moron.
>My God! Perhaps I am!"
>--author unknown
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

_________________________________________________________________
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--__--__--

Message: 26
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] quick oil change valve
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 21:07:58 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Only if you're insane....8*)

Never thought these valves were a good idea - the possibility for
failure/leakage/nastiness is too high for something as vital as engine oil.

You only need to fiddle with it every 3K miles - and you're under there to
go after the filter anyway.

Not worth it...

            ajr

--__--__--

Message: 27
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Resurecting Red Zit
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 21:11:28 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Niall, last time I saw anything this insane it turned out to be a bad LUG,
not a switch. Lug looked great but was hangin on by the onsulation - it
would heat and loase contact, then make again when the attached switch was
fiddled.

As far as what to look for, burnt bits is the name of that game. Examine
the contacts, spring balls and the like - if they are shiny metal they're
OK.

Seriously - have a good look at thte lugs on the supply line to the switch
- mightr well be the problem if they're corroded or loose.

                        ajr

--__--__--

Message: 28
To: [email-masked], [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 21:06:52 -0400
From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] trannie
Reply-To: [email-masked]

The symptoms you describe are clsiic failure of one of ths synchro
springs. There are three detent springs equi spaced in the 3/4 gear
synchro hub, when one fails it puts a side load on the assembly making
shifting dfficult.

 if you remove the top, taking care to catch all the balls and springs, 
lower the oil level. you will probbaly find the broken pieces in the oil.
Towards the front of the box you will se a brass ring, this is the third
gear synchro ring. If you look to the centre there is a steel gear and
rim. At the centre of this are three flat springs, abuot a half inch wide
and 1.5 inches long. They are equi spaced around the centre gear. Rotate
the mainshaft and you will probably see that one or two of them are
missing.  Replacements can be fitted from the top, it is tediuos, but
preferable to pulling the box.  Personally I find heamostats very useful
for this purpose.

Regards from Western New York State

  Bill Leacock.

--__--__--

Message: 29
From: Nick Danger <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 21:36:43 -0400
Subject: [lro] Two cross ref numbers needed - PCV valve and Spark Plug
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Two things were suggested to me recently. I'll start with the easy one

It was suggested that I use Autolites  (sp?) instead of Champions as the 
Autolites were a hotter plug and might improve some of my tuning issues. I 
dont remember the number tho. Was it Autolite 65's?

The second is more complicated. My PCV valve is broken again. As this would 
be the 3rd time this year I've replaced the rubber diaphram and spring Im 
beginning to think that perhaps there is something wrong with the metal 
peices instead. So, at Roverfest it was suggested I use something else. Such 
as one of the 'generic' ones from PepBoys. "Just get anyone that uses the 
same size tubing" was the general consesus. After being presented with 1/2 an 
isle of choices there were no less then 7 different ones I could have picked 
but they all were different shapes and configurations. So, does anyone have a 
suggested replacement PCV valve? Or should I go original LR? Right now Im 
running with a clamped bolt in the tube as it was impossible to get a steady 
idle when it wasnt clamped off.

Thanks all,
Nick

--__--__--

Message: 30
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 21:49:38 -0400
From: "d.h.lowe" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Exploding Rangies
Reply-To: [email-masked]

And now stored behind the Shop at Nemac in Richmond Hill,  Trevor. Complete
with bullet holes. They are breaking them and have a couple dismantled.
Yvonne bought the lot.
Cheers  Dave

Easton Trevor A wrote:

> Give your frustrations with your Land Rover some release and see "Exit
> Wounds" with Steven Segal. Several exploding and otherwise destroy RRs.
> Courtesy of Jack Union in Bolton, Ont
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 31
From: "Mark  Love" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Two cross ref numbers needed - PCV valve and Spark
  Plug
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 21:56:09 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

At BMW school they never recomend any brand names, but they do tell us NEVER use autolite plugs.
With all the other choices out there i figured why find out the hard way?  Mark Love

--__--__--

Message: 32
From: "Andre Shoumatoff" <[email-masked]>
To: "Land Rover List" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Axle straps
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 22:18:58 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Has anyone found an alternative driveshaft that would prevent the neccessity
of check straps?

I've heard that some Jeep driveshafts work excellently, and I'd think with a
good set of modern offroad shocks that could maybe take the abuse (ie maybe
a set of Ranchos?) then one could take advantage of the extended rear
articulation.  I remember parking on a snowbank once not noticing that one
of my check straps had broken and was quite impressed with the rear
articulation on a my old SIII 88.  The left rear tire was some foot & 1/2
higher!

Andre

--__--__--

Message: 33
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 20:25:35 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Two cross ref numbers needed - PCV valve and Spark
  Plug
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I've used autolite and many other brands, and have never had any 
problems with any of them. 

Mark Love wrote:
> 
> At BMW school they never recomend any brand names, but they do tell us NEVER use autolite plugs.
> With all the other choices out there i figured why find out the hard way?  Mark Love
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 34
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 22:18:29 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] Resurecting Red Zit
From: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I haven't been paying much attention to this thread so I'm not sure what
year or model you have ,but your symptoms sound very familiar.  I have a
65 IIA.  The inner plastic spool that holds the inner contact ring melts.
 I gave up and used a relay to take the current off the switch.  I figure
that the high moisture environment of my rover ( if your bulkhead was
bent as badly as mine your rover would leak as badly as mine) must
corrode the contact area enough to raise the resistance.

Just a thought
Chris hall
> 
> I'm not sure. These are the symptoms. At first the ignition will cut 
> out 
> intermitently while driving and then cut back in. When this happens 
> I lose 
> power to the gauges etc also. Some times I might have to jiggle the 
> key or 
> turn it on and off repeatedly to get the truck to start (I watch for 
> the 
> fuel gauge to go up and I think the charge light too but now that I 
> think 
> about it, maybe not the charge light). Eventually the switch just 
> won't work 
> any more.
> 
> I've taken the switches apart and can't really find any problems but 
> then I 
> don't really know what I'm looking for.
> 
> Niall Forbes
> 66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
> Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
> The Nova Scotian Rover - 
> http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm
> 
> "See the happy moron,
> He doesn't give a damn.
> I wish I were a moron.
> My God! Perhaps I am!"
> --author unknown
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at 
> http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 35
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 22:07:34 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] Two cross ref numbers needed - PCV valve and Spark
  Plug
From: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I use a PCV valve from a 88-91 Honda civic.  Screws right in to the
manifold.  As for the other hoses I use a rather different set up so it
might not work for you.

Chris hall
On Wed, 15 Aug 2001 21:36:43 -0400 Nick Danger <[email-masked]>
writes:
> 
> Two things were suggested to me recently. I'll start with the easy 
> one
> 
> It was suggested that I use Autolites  (sp?) instead of Champions as 
> the 
> Autolites were a hotter plug and might improve some of my tuning 
> issues. I 
> dont remember the number tho. Was it Autolite 65's?
> 
> The second is more complicated. My PCV valve is broken again. As 
> this would 
> be the 3rd time this year I've replaced the rubber diaphram and 
> spring Im 
> beginning to think that perhaps there is something wrong with the 
> metal 
> peices instead. So, at Roverfest it was suggested I use something 
> else. Such 
> as one of the 'generic' ones from PepBoys. "Just get anyone that 
> uses the 
> same size tubing" was the general consesus. After being presented 
> with 1/2 an 
> isle of choices there were no less then 7 different ones I could 
> have picked 
> but they all were different shapes and configurations. So, does 
> anyone have a 
> suggested replacement PCV valve? Or should I go original LR? Right 
> now Im 
> running with a clamped bolt in the tube as it was impossible to get 
> a steady 
> idle when it wasnt clamped off.
> 
> Thanks all,
> Nick
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 36
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 22:08:37 -0400
From: Winn Bearden <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] South Georgia Boys
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I'm still not through with the mods that I need to make after that last
Tellico "learning" experience.  Will make it to the SAE rally in Sept.,
though.  Perrone, are you coming again this year?

RON WARD wrote:

> Hey Winn,
>
> Y'all coming up for the Tellico ride this weekend??
>
> Ron
>
> >>> [email-masked] 08/14/01 10:11PM >>>
>
> I saw him today as a matter of fact.  He helped me adjust the valves on
> my 200 TDi.  (229)386-8498
>
> Perrone Ford wrote:
>
> > Any of you guys from S. Ga, got the new number for Steve Johnson at
> > Dixieland Rovers?  My number for him doesn't seem to be working.
> >
> > -P
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
>
> --
> Winn Bearden          19XX SIIa/SIII/RR 100" Hybrid
> P.O. Box 464          1967 NADA 109" SW (in pieces)
> Americus, GA 31709    1996 4.0 SE
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--
Winn Bearden          19XX SIIa/SIII/RR 100" Hybrid
P.O. Box 464          1967 NADA 109" SW (in pieces)
Americus, GA 31709    1996 4.0 SE

--__--__--

Message: 37
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 20:33:23 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Axle straps
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In the stock setup, I found that my springs limited the articulation
enough to protect the driveshaft when the shocks were off. However, my
springs were flat with the weight of the rover with a soft top. With
such a short driveshaft, it's better to have something to control drop
if you aren't sure how close you are to binding the u-joints. As I said,
since lifting and re-arching the springs, I had to put a strap back on
as I had been running without them. I put one on the diff.

Andre Shoumatoff wrote:
> 
> Has anyone found an alternative driveshaft that would prevent the neccessity
> of check straps?
> 
> I've heard that some Jeep driveshafts work excellently, and I'd think with a
> good set of modern offroad shocks that could maybe take the abuse (ie maybe
> a set of Ranchos?) then one could take advantage of the extended rear
> articulation.  I remember parking on a snowbank once not noticing that one
> of my check straps had broken and was quite impressed with the rear
> articulation on a my old SIII 88.  The left rear tire was some foot & 1/2
> higher!
> 
> Andre
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 38
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 22:15:52 -0400
From: Winn Bearden <[email-masked]>
To: stephen jones <[email-masked]>,
   "[email-masked]"
  <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Re: 200 tdi
Reply-To: [email-masked]

    Thanks for the advice, but the diaphragm was fine and the pin is moving
freely.  Apparently the problem is the injectors.  Took the injectors to the
"place" and they said that they were surprised that it would run at all!
All four tips were beyond reuse so they're waiting for parts(and I'm having
to drive the Powerstroke again.)
stephen jones wrote:

> Saw your message on the Lro list regarding low power. I have had the
> same problem for some time since I purchased my 200tdi and on friday
> last week I managed to solve the mystery, to say that I am impressed
> would be an understatement, the truck now goes like a rocket. I will try
>
> to explain what I found that was wrong.
> >From the high pressure side of the turbo you have a plastic pipe that
> tees off to the waist gate mechanism and another pipe that goes down to
> the injector pump. The pipe going to pump feeds a diaphragm which in
> turn operates a linkage and moves a pin inside the top cover of the
> pump. The top of the diaphragm is exposed to oily air from the turbo but
>
> the bottom has no lubrication at all. What happens is that condensation
> ect gets into this area and the pin seizes up. This pin is what controls
>
> the extra diesel that is required to match the extra flow that is
> delivered by the turbo. This means that even though your turbo might be
> working it is not giving you any extra power. A simple way to check if
> this is the problem is to watch you exhaust as you are accelerating a
> distinct puff of smoke should come out at the same time or just before
> you hear the turbo start whining. You can free the pin from the top by
> spraying some form of releasing agent and trying to work it manually, if
>
> this cannot be achieved the pump has to be stripped (costly) I was lucky
>
> and mine could be freed from the top even though the guys that did it
> said it was the most seized that they had come across (this is
> apparently quite common). It is also good to check your actual turbo
> boost when driving to also ensure that the waste gate is not dumping too
>
> much air (this is what I took it in to check on friday).
>
> Hope that this is clear and solves your problem
>
> Stephen Jones
> "92  110  200tdi
> '71 109 S2a
>
> *********************************************************************
> This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and
> intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they
> are addressed. If you have received this email in error please notify
> the system manager.
>
> This footnote also confirms that this email message has been swept by
> Fprot for the presence of computer viruses.
>
> mail.bell.co.za
> **********************************************************************

--
Winn Bearden          19XX SIIa/SIII/RR 100" Hybrid
P.O. Box 464          1967 NADA 109" SW (in pieces)
Americus, GA 31709    1996 4.0 SE

--__--__--

Message: 39
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 20:16:01 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: "G. Mugele" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Two cross ref numbers needed - PCV valve and Spark  
  Plug
Reply-To: [email-masked]

At 8:25 PM -0600 8/15/01, Jim Hall wrote:
>I've used autolite and many other brands, and have never had any
>problems with any of them.
>

I have only had one bad experience but it was a hard one and made me 
always think twice about plugs.  In the late 70s I bought Champions 
by the dozen and changed plugs every other oil change on my Series 
III and never had a problem until....

After my most major tuneup: valves, points, distributor cap and 
rotor, plugs, oil, lube, check all the electrics, new belts and 
hoses, flush the hydraulics and cooling system, for good measure I 
did the front brake shoes: it ran like crap.  It had been just fine 
before I worked on it.

Note: I had to open a new box of plugs for my replacements.

Being fairly certain that I must have screwed up somewhere, I checked 
everything and checked it all again.  No problems that I could find. 
I did a compression check: perfect.  After several frustrating days 
of trying to diagnose the problem I found that I could change it but 
not correct it.  I even swapped out the new plugs for another set of 
new plugs.  Twice.

The thing ran but had no power and wouldn't pull the hill at the end 
of my road in anything but 2nd as opposed to the usual 4th.  It 
revved reluctantly and would die at idle.

I finally gave up and took it (slowly) to a local mechanic.  He 
checked it over briefly and told me summarily that it was the plugs. 
I said something like Bill Shirt, but he insisted.  We put in some 
NGK something or others ( not the appropriate ones for the 2.25, but 
they were the only thing he had on hand at the time) and it ran far 
better but not quite right.  I went to the local Chevron Station and 
got a set of Atlas.  It worked exactly as it should have, problems 
gone.

We checked the Champions on his tester... out of a dozen plugs only 
three were okay.   That box was one of of two that I had bought at 
the same time; the other dozen had 7 good ones.  Seems that Champion, 
normally a good plug, had some production screw ups a year or two 
before and produced quite a number of faulty plugs.

Anyway....  I no longer assume that new plugs are perfect.  I suggest 
that you don't either.

       _
     / o\_         Gerald Mugele
    /   )-- \       [email-masked]
   /    |            Glen Ellen, CA
*** "In America, anyone can become president. That's one of the risks 
you take."   ~ Adlai Stevenson 

--__--__--

Message: 40
From: "Perrone Ford" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] South Georgia Boys
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 23:39:39 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I'll be there.  Or at least I intend to.  I know some will be bitterly
disappointed in that, but I'm goin' anyhow!  I've been as far as
Douglasville in that area, but looking at the area on my Topo software, it
looks beautiful.

-P

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf
> Of Winn Bearden
> Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 10:09 PM
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: [lro] South Georgia Boys
>
>
>
> I'm still not through with the mods that I need to make after that last
> Tellico "learning" experience.  Will make it to the SAE rally in Sept.,
> though.  Perrone, are you coming again this year?

--__--__--

Message: 41
From: "Peter M Hope" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Axle straps
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 20:45:07 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Has anyone found an alternative driveshaft that would prevent the
neccessity
> of check straps?

I always thought the check straps were to prevent the shocks from bottoming
out?
If it is just a drive shaft issue, I had mine rebuilt with longer slip
joints.  These are standard Spicer parts and can be done at any driveline
shop.  I think teriann's web page even has the part numbers.  If not let me
know and I will dig through my reciepts.

--__--__--

Message: 42
From: "Peter M Hope" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Koenig drive shaft.
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 20:48:51 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

For those with the crank driven Koenig kings:
I have come up with a slip-on/quick disconect drive shaft.  Just 2 allen
head set screws, and the whole thing pops off.  Only required one easy to
fab part.  Been playing army for a while and have not had a chance to
assemble and test.  Will get it done before going out trail riding this
weekend.  Will report the results with instructions and photos...and address
to send the royalties to.  Cost was under 50$.
Pete

--__--__--

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