Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #46 - 42 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 03:05:43 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Brake pedal sinking. Very odd. (S. Vels)
   2. Re: Re: Exhaust (was back pressure) ([email-masked])
   3. Re: Brake pedal sinking. Very odd. (David Scheidt)
   4. Re: Locking differential. What options? (Rolston)
   5. Early SII Drivetrain ([email-masked])
   6. Re: Locking differential. What options? (TeriAnn Wakeman)
   7. Re: Brake pedal sinking. Very odd. (TeriAnn Wakeman)
   8. Re: Re: Exhaust (was back pressure) (Kirk Hillman)
   9. Re: rear dif leak (Mike Rogers)
  10. Re: rear dif leak (Rob MacCormick)
  11. RE: Kodiak heater (John Karlsson)
  12. Intake and Exhaust lengths, engine design (Hope Peter)
  13. Re: Kodiak heater (Kirk Hillman)
  14. Re: Intake and Exhaust lengths, engine design (Rob MacCormick)
  15. Re: Intake and Exhaust lengths, engine design (Perrone Ford)
  16. RE: SIIA gearbox in Series 1 (Ford Stephen CFMETR FORN)
  17. Re: Intake and Exhaust lengths, engine design (Kirk Hillman)
  18. Re: Intake and Exhaust lengths, engine design (Kirk Hillman)
  19. Flowmaster, was exhaust blah blah... (Bill Adams)
  20. Re: rear dif leak (RON WARD)
  21. Re: rear dif leak (David Scheidt)
  22. Re: Flowmaster, was exhaust blah blah... (Kirk Hillman)
  23. FW: Aston Martin, Jaguar and Land Rover to Create New North
       Ameri can Organization (Easton Trevor A)
  24. Re: scotty's adapter (Peter Ogilvie)
  25. Re: Flowmaster, was exhaust blah blah... (Hope Peter)
  26. Re: scotty's adapter/breaking ([email-masked])
  27. Re: scotty's adapter/breaking (Kirk Hillman)
  28. LRO - aftermarket tranny bits (Rich & Lori Williams)
  29. Re: LRO - aftermarket tranny bits (David Scheidt)
  30. Re: scotty's adapter/breaking ([email-masked])
  31. Help starting an old diesel (Andrew H. Litkowiak)
  32. Re: LRO - aftermarket tranny bits (Hope Peter)
  33. Re: Intake and Exhaust lengths, engine design ([email-masked])
  34. Re: scotty's adapter/breaking (Jim Hall)
  35. Re: scotty's adapter/breaking ([email-masked])
  36. Re: Early SII Drivetrain (Mark  Love)
  37. Re: scotty's adapter/breaking (Jim Hall)
  38. Re: Intake and Exhaust lengths, engine design (Hope Peter)
  39. Re: Intake and Exhaust lengths, engine design (Hope Peter)
  40. Re: scotty's adapter/breaking (David Scheidt)
  41. Looking for a Rover in NE/Canada (Andre Shoumatoff)

--__--__--

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 10:45:41 +0200
From: "S. Vels" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Brake pedal sinking. Very odd.
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi.

Before taking the whole brake system apart, i would like to hear an opinion
on this strange problem:

When pressing the brake pedal, the car slows down as expected. Only, the
pedal is slowly sinking as if there is a leak somewhere. Which is not the
case. It's not loosing any fluid. When braking slowly, the pedal will reach
it's limit and must be repressed and the cycle repeats itself.

Brakes are as good as before, if the foot follows the pedal down to maintain
pressure.

The main cylinder is an original Girling less than two years old. Fluid is
silicone - neither i nor my brother has had any problems with this
particular brand ever (he used to have a ser. III 88"). Mine is as ser. III
109 dual brake circuit (1976).

I wonder if there could be air ind the main cylinder, which travels back and
forth, past the pistons, with pedal movement?. I don't have any other idea.

Thanks in adv. and have a nice weekend.
sv/aurens

--__--__--

Message: 2
To: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 22:56:34 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Exhaust (was back pressure)
From: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Kirk the problem is making a cost effective valve that can live reliably
in the exhaust stream.  Your suggestion seems to have rattled a few
neurons awake.  An Australian company is selling a throttle valve for
exhausts.  Seems that the higher the pressure inside a muffler the more
effective it is at muffling.  So the valve is has electronic controls
that monitor the pressure and vary the opening to maintain a user
adjustable pressure in the system.  If you want to try variable length
intake let me know and I will sent you an Accord intake manifold.  you
will have to build runners and mounting flange but the plenum and
throttle plates will give you a good start.  

>     My question is why cannot someone devise a simple dual exhaust 
> system
> that is progressive just like the Weber 32/36 carb?  Have it flow 
> through
> the small pipe at low throttle and open up the second as RPM 
> increases?
> They do things like this on Work's motorcycles, and surely in other 
> sports.
> Maybe it causes too much problem with regular carbs?  It would be a 
> perfect
> fit for either a progressive two barrel or fuel injection.  The 
> progressive
> carb could be jetted on the second barrel for the larger exhaust 
> flow, FI
> meters itself.... HMMMMM
> 
> Kirk
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 3
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 06:22:18 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake pedal sinking. Very odd.
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Fri, 10 Aug 2001, S. Vels wrote:

:
:Hi.
:
:Before taking the whole brake system apart, i would like to hear an opinion
:on this strange problem:
:
:When pressing the brake pedal, the car slows down as expected. Only, the
:pedal is slowly sinking as if there is a leak somewhere. Which is not the
:case. It's not loosing any fluid. When braking slowly, the pedal will reach
:it's limit and must be repressed and the cycle repeats itself.
:
:Brakes are as good as before, if the foot follows the pedal down to maintain
:pressure.
:
:The main cylinder is an original Girling less than two years old. Fluid is
:silicone - neither i nor my brother has had any problems with this
:particular brand ever (he used to have a ser. III 88"). Mine is as ser. III
:109 dual brake circuit (1976).
:
:I wonder if there could be air ind the main cylinder, which travels back and
:forth, past the pistons, with pedal movement?. I don't have any other idea.

Failing seals in the master cylinder.  Clamp off the flex lines, and the
pedal should not move.  If the master is failing like this, it will slowly
sink to the floor.

David

-- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

--__--__--

Message: 4
From: "Rolston" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Locking differential. What options?
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 07:46:41 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Ww are running Interco Truxus tires, and they are great.  Fairly quiet,
supposed to be longer wearing and they have been very good in the woods.
Jim

--__--__--

Message: 5
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 08:39:08 EDT
From: [email-masked]
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Early SII Drivetrain
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Richard C wrote:
Early series II engines and gearboxes were 2.25 litre and also manually actuated clutches.

   This is incorrect.  Early SIIs were fitted with 2.0L engines both petrol and diesel.  In fact the 2.0 L motors found their way into trucks as late as 1960.  The very earliest SIIs even had SI semi floating rear axles and a single signal light in each front fender!  SIs that were sold as 1958 model years were actually built in late 1957 to use up stocks of SI components.  Some were even sold right alongside early SIIs.  Some 107 wagons were still being built when the earliest SIIs were rolling off the lines.  (there was never a 109 SI wagon depite the change in wheelbase in late 1956 to accomidate the 2.0L diesel engine.  This also means there are no diesel 107 wagons)  The SII 109 wagon did not come out until the 1959 model year despite the fact that some were built in 1958.
-Regards
-Ike Goss

--__--__--

Message: 6
Subject: Re: [lro] Locking differential. What options?
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 01 06:11:45 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>> The other problem with a salisbury is that it is 2" closer to the tranny
>> meaning you will have a really short driveshaft and could have problems
>> with the angle unless you move the springs back also. You can get 24
>> spline halfshafts and hardened 24 spline halfshafts and 24 spline
>> lockers.
>
>Oh, yeah! That was the other reason (sorry, I forgot). On a LWB it
>doesn't make much difference, but on an 88" it would be critical.

In a early 109 it is simply a matter of swapping in a stock series III 
109 rear axle assy and rear propshaft.  No fuss, no muss not custom 
fabrication.  Well maybe a bit if you like the idea of big 35 spline 
axles.

For an 88 I agree with Paul.  Probably best to hunt down extra strong 
carrier & axles to fit in the stock Rover housing.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

--__--__--

Message: 7
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake pedal sinking. Very odd.
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 01 06:21:42 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>When pressing the brake pedal, the car slows down as expected. Only, the
>pedal is slowly sinking as if there is a leak somewhere. Which is not the
>case. It's not loosing any fluid. When braking slowly, the pedal will reach
>it's limit and must be repressed and the cycle repeats itself.

Reminds me of an internal master brake cylinder leak

> Mine is as ser. III 109 dual brake circuit (1976).

In the front circuit (pressure in the front circuit is used to push the 
piston on the rear circuit)

If you can, rebuild the cylinder using new rubber that has never seen 
Gurling brake fluid.  You early failure is probably due to the different 
ways silicone & Gurling fluids affect rubber.  New cylinders come 
prelubed with Gurling fluid.

TeriAnn         
                      http://www.overlander.net

  The world's most complete set of links connecting Rover 4X4 owners
  with Rover parts, service, accessory & sales companies world wide.

--__--__--

Message: 8
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Exhaust (was back pressure)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 07:59:27 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Chris,
    I have already talked to my friend regarding the other set-up, but I
will see what he thinks about using the Accord manifold.  If I need it I
will send for it.  Thanks very much for the offer.  :-)

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 9
From: "Mike Rogers" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] rear dif leak
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 16:38:59 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Your plan of action sounds fine up to "pull it out enough to
slip on the gasket". You will have to take the diff all the way out as the
gasket fits over the studs that stick out of the housing. Beware the diff is
heavy, and usually hangs on the studs a little. My favoured method is lying
flat on my back so that the diff is rubbing against my stomach as I wiggle
it off the studs, then just roll over and drag the diff out.

Don't forget to drain the oil first.

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid
LPG V8 110 project (thanks to Marijn)
(if you can't get there in a Land Rover you can't get there)

----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2001 11:07 PM
Subject: Re: [lro] rear dif leak

>
> Assuming the gasket on the rear dif is the cause of my leaky woes, are
there any
> major concerns/issues I should be aware of when I do this?
>
> Pull both half shafts enough to clear the gears, disconnect the rear drive
shaft
> at the dif, and support the housing on the floor jack when I pull it out
enough to
> slip on the gasket was my plan of attack.  Anything else I need to fret
over?
>
> Jeff
>
> Jeff Bieler wrote:
>
> >  On the rear dif cover, below the fill/check hole and above and to the
left of
> > the drain plug (looking from the front to the rear of the truck) there
appears
> > to be a circular "plug" in my dif between two of the mounting bolts.
This
> > "plug" can be moved with a little finger pressure.  It also appears to
be the
> > source of my persistant leak.
> >
> > Any ideas what the plug is?  I can't find any clue to it's purpose in
any of my
> > manuals or parts books.  Figure E1-5 of the Green Bible shows a pic of
the
> > housing and the plug in question is visible, but I can't find any
reference to
> > it at all.
> >
> > Jeff
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 10
From: Rob MacCormick <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Cc: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] rear dif leak
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 11:50:51 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

new use for iron stomach?
Obviuosly not applicable to salisbury rear axle...Uh? 
anyone heard from Jeff? he went out back to put a gasket in 
his diff a few days ago....

If you don't like the stomach approach, the skateboard is 
always a nice alternative....

On Fri, 10 Aug 2001 16:38:59 +0100 Mike Rogers 
<[email-masked]> wrote:

> 
> Your plan of action sounds fine up to "pull it out enough to
> slip on the gasket". You will have to take the diff all the way out as the
> gasket fits over the studs that stick out of the housing. Beware the diff is
> heavy, and usually hangs on the studs a little. My favoured method is lying
> flat on my back so that the diff is rubbing against my stomach as I wiggle
> it off the studs, then just roll over and drag the diff out.
> 
> Don't forget to drain the oil first.
> 
> Mike Rogers
> Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid
> LPG V8 110 project (thanks to Marijn)
> (if you can't get there in a Land Rover you can't get there)
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
> To: <[email-masked]>
> Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2001 11:07 PM
> Subject: Re: [lro] rear dif leak
> 
> 
> >
> > Assuming the gasket on the rear dif is the cause of my leaky woes, are
> there any
> > major concerns/issues I should be aware of when I do this?
> >
> > Pull both half shafts enough to clear the gears, disconnect the rear drive
> shaft
> > at the dif, and support the housing on the floor jack when I pull it out
> enough to
> > slip on the gasket was my plan of attack.  Anything else I need to fret
> over?
> >
> > Jeff
> >
> > Jeff Bieler wrote:
> >
> > >  On the rear dif cover, below the fill/check hole and above and to the
> left of
> > > the drain plug (looking from the front to the rear of the truck) there
> appears
> > > to be a circular "plug" in my dif between two of the mounting bolts.
> This
> > > "plug" can be moved with a little finger pressure.  It also appears to
> be the
> > > source of my persistant leak.
> > >
> > > Any ideas what the plug is?  I can't find any clue to it's purpose in
> any of my
> > > manuals or parts books.  Figure E1-5 of the Green Bible shows a pic of
> the
> > > housing and the plug in question is visible, but I can't find any
> reference to
> > > it at all.
> > >
> > > Jeff
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > LRO mailing list
> > > [email-masked]
> > > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

----------------------
Rob MacCormick
Laboratory Safety Manager
EHS Dept.
Boston College
(617)-552-0363
[email-masked]

--__--__--

Message: 11
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 12:11:17 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: John Karlsson <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Kodiak heater
Reply-To: [email-masked]

My first Land-Rover had the Kodiak heater, and I was very disappointed by 
its heat output.  Then I decided to flush it out with the garden 
hose.  Suddenly it became a Heater!!  I don't know if it was clogged with 
unmentionable goop or just air locked, but the garden hose trick worked 
wonders.  When I got my second L-R, its Kodiak was the same wimpy 
heater.  I repeated the garden hose trick with excellent results.

John

--__--__--

Message: 12
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 06:09:05 -1000
Subject: [lro] Intake and Exhaust lengths, engine design
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> adjustable pressure in the system.  If you want to try variable length
> intake let me know and I will sent you an Accord intake manifold.  you
> will have to build runners and mounting flange but the plenum and
> throttle plates will give you a good start.

All of this discussion forced me to run over to Borders last night.  Found a
couple of good books on engine design theory.  Stayed up way too late last
night reading all about intake and exhaust theory.  Seems that the perfect
set up would have variable length intake runners (or FI with the injectors
in the combustion chamber) and a way to vary exhaust diameter and length.
Seems that 100% free flow in the exhaust is not such a good thing (according
to this author) and that 'some' back pressure is needed to get the benifits
of scavaging (the BDC blow down stuff Chris mentioned).  I am going to get
away from the 19$ special that hangs under the Rover now and see if I can
find a flowmaster that will fit my application.  Also appears that pipe
length after the muffler is important.
I alos understand why ACR's side draft intake set up works better then
anything else (theoretically).  I have a couple of 2 bbl intake liying
around now (aint ebay grand) and think I may try and measure the volume of
each runner and see how balanced they are.

I need to find a set of truck scales and get the Rover weighed.  I am very
interested to see just how much weight the frames, rollcage, bumpers, rims
etc have added.  Maybe I Just will never be able to drive up that damn hill,
no matter what I try and do.

Haven't been able to find any good info on the Bosch manual FI set up.
Everything at the store was electronic.  Any recomendations?

--__--__--

Message: 13
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Kodiak heater
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 10:16:02 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

John,
    Now there is a quick fix I can try!!!

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 14
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 12:28:24 -0400
From: Rob MacCormick <[email-masked]>
Organization: Boston College
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Intake and Exhaust lengths, engine design
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>  Maybe I Just will never be able to drive up that damn hill,
> no matter what I try and do.
>
> Haven't been able to find any good info on the Bosch manual FI set up.
> Everything at the store was electronic.  Any recomendations?

find an alternate route?.....Sorry my brain is smoked.....

>
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 15
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 12:30:43 -0400
From: Perrone Ford <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Intake and Exhaust lengths, engine design
Reply-To: [email-masked]

What books did you get Peter!  And welcome to the "book club"!  Its 
amazing what reading a few books will do for your understanding of 
engine theory and tuning ability.  I wouldn't spend a WHOLE lot of time 
measuring runners and such unless you just feel like tinkering, but have 
at it man!  Looks like we're gonna have us a Hot Rod 2.25l Series truck 
in a few months!  Send pictures!

As for the book on Bosch fuel (fool) injection, I'd look at Bentleys as 
they usually have stuff along those lines, or maybe Haynes if you can't 
find anything else.

-P

Hope Peter wrote:

>> adjustable pressure in the system.  If you want to try variable length
>> intake let me know and I will sent you an Accord intake manifold.  you
>> will have to build runners and mounting flange but the plenum and
>> throttle plates will give you a good start.
> 
> 
> All of this discussion forced me to run over to Borders last night.  Found a
> couple of good books on engine design theory.  Stayed up way too late last
> night reading all about intake and exhaust theory.  Seems that the perfect
> set up would have variable length intake runners (or FI with the injectors
> in the combustion chamber) and a way to vary exhaust diameter and length.
> Seems that 100% free flow in the exhaust is not such a good thing (according
> to this author) and that 'some' back pressure is needed to get the benifits
> of scavaging (the BDC blow down stuff Chris mentioned).  I am going to get
> away from the 19$ special that hangs under the Rover now and see if I can
> find a flowmaster that will fit my application.  Also appears that pipe
> length after the muffler is important.
> I alos understand why ACR's side draft intake set up works better then
> anything else (theoretically).  I have a couple of 2 bbl intake liying
> around now (aint ebay grand) and think I may try and measure the volume of
> each runner and see how balanced they are.
> 
> I need to find a set of truck scales and get the Rover weighed.  I am very
> interested to see just how much weight the frames, rollcage, bumpers, rims
> etc have added.  Maybe I Just will never be able to drive up that damn hill,
> no matter what I try and do.
> 
> Haven't been able to find any good info on the Bosch manual FI set up.
> Everything at the store was electronic.  Any recomendations?

--__--__--

Message: 16
From: "Ford Stephen CFMETR FORN" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: [lro] SIIA gearbox in Series 1
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 15:50:17 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

That's good advice Martin, I hadn't thought of joining the S1 list. I guess
I was enjoying this one too much.

Stephen
Nanaimo, BC

-----Original Message-----
From: Martin Rothman [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2001 1:43 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] SIIA gearbox in Series 1

Hi Stephen,

The linkages for the clutch are different than the S1 and you will have to 
make some custom adaptors.  Most people just take a S2 clutch pedal assembly

and mate it to the S1 bulkhead. Having said this, it can and has been done 
before.

Many people drop a complete S2 engine and transmission into a S1.  Bolts to 
the same mount points without any modifications at all.  An extra benefit is

the significantly greater torque from the 2.25 litre engine.

I suggest that you join the S1 list (see www.landrover.net and follow the 
links) and pose the question up there.  Several of the members have done the

switch and can give you more specific advise.

Good luck

******************************************
Martin Rothman
52 S1-80" (with original engine and non-syncro tranny!)

>From: "Ford Stephen CFMETR FORN" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: [email-masked]
>Subject: [lro] SIIA gearbox in Series 1
>Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 13:12:23 -0700
>
>
>To all,
>
>I'm getting ready to install my SIIA gearbox and engine in my late S1 (1958
>LHD 88"), and I need to address the clutch actuation issue. The S1
>mechanically actuates the clutch withdrawal unit (from the LHS) while the
>SIIA is a hydraulically actuated unit (from the RHS). I need to decide
>whether to go mechanical or hydraulic, and how to go about it,  so input
>from anyone who's done it would be appreciated.
>
>For those not familiar with Series 1's, the pedals go through the floor, so
>going hydraulic would probably involve cutting a hole in the bulkhead and
>installing an SIIA pedal assembly on the engine side of the bulkhead.
>Does anyone know if the S1 clutch withdrawal unit will bolt into and work 
>in
>the SIIA bellhousing?  If it does, I would consider cutting a hole in the
>LHS of the bellhousing to use the S1 mechanical approach.
>
>Thanks,
>Stephen Ford
>Nanaimo, B.C.
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 17
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Intake and Exhaust lengths, engine design
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 10:40:10 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Peter,
    If you are asking about book recommendations for mech. Bosch FI, there
are a couple basic ones that cover it, I believe.  The first one I saw was
the Haynes manual.  Actually, I think Haynes has two FI books, one of them
is Bosch specific.  The Haynes number is 10215 for one of them.  It covers
all the Bosch systems including the K and KE-Jetronic.  K-Jetronic is the
totally mechanical system, while KE has two additions I believe that are
electrical.  Charles Probst also has a book called 'Bosch Fuel Injection and
Engine Management'  ISBN 0837603005.  According to many people Probst's book
is the bible on Bosch FI, but I have not read it yet.  It should also cover
the whole range of Bosch systems from LH-Motronic down to K-Jetronic.
    I just did a search and came up with 'How to Tune and Modify Bosch Fuel
Injection', by Ben Watson ISBN 0879385707.  I can't find mention of the
other Haynes book, so maybe it wasn't a Haynes at all.  I just remember
reading it in the Haynes section at Canadian Tire.

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 18
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Intake and Exhaust lengths, engine design
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 10:43:37 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Peter,
    The Charles O. Probst book I mentioned was the Bentley book.

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 19
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 13:05:47 -0400
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Organization: U.S. International Broadcasting Bureau
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Flowmaster, was exhaust blah blah...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I can personally attest to the fabulousness of Flowmaster mufflers. They
are all welded and aluminized inside and out. They don't have any
perforated tubes or such cheapness and are ultra heavy duty. They rely
on sound wave cancellation rather than airflow damping/constriction
which keeps the exhaust gasses flowing smoothly. I paid about 65 bones
for it at a discount auto parts place in Wilkes-Barre when the
supposedly last muffler I'd ever need to buy went tits up. It's a little
louder than the "lifetime" (4 months) Walker muffler that I paid an
ungodly $85 for, but it has no wiggly bits inside to fall apart. Any
exhaust system for your Rover should include one of these.
-- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

--__--__--

Message: 20
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 13:19:11 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] rear dif leak
Reply-To: [email-masked]

If you have a garage floor creeper, works nicely too.  Unless, of course, you're Jack Lalaine... ;>

>>> [email-masked] 08/10/01 11:50AM >>>

new use for iron stomach?
Obviuosly not applicable to salisbury rear axle...Uh? 
anyone heard from Jeff? he went out back to put a gasket in 
his diff a few days ago....

If you don't like the stomach approach, the skateboard is 
always a nice alternative....

On Fri, 10 Aug 2001 16:38:59 +0100 Mike Rogers 
<[email-masked]> wrote:

> 
> Your plan of action sounds fine up to "pull it out enough to
> slip on the gasket". You will have to take the diff all the way out as the
> gasket fits over the studs that stick out of the housing. Beware the diff is
> heavy, and usually hangs on the studs a little. My favoured method is lying
> flat on my back so that the diff is rubbing against my stomach as I wiggle
> it off the studs, then just roll over and drag the diff out.
> 
> Don't forget to drain the oil first.
> 
> Mike Rogers
> Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid
> LPG V8 110 project (thanks to Marijn)
> (if you can't get there in a Land Rover you can't get there)
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
> To: <[email-masked]>
> Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2001 11:07 PM
> Subject: Re: [lro] rear dif leak
> 
> 
> >
> > Assuming the gasket on the rear dif is the cause of my leaky woes, are
> there any
> > major concerns/issues I should be aware of when I do this?
> >
> > Pull both half shafts enough to clear the gears, disconnect the rear drive
> shaft
> > at the dif, and support the housing on the floor jack when I pull it out
> enough to
> > slip on the gasket was my plan of attack.  Anything else I need to fret
> over?
> >
> > Jeff
> >
> > Jeff Bieler wrote:
> >
> > >  On the rear dif cover, below the fill/check hole and above and to the
> left of
> > > the drain plug (looking from the front to the rear of the truck) there
> appears
> > > to be a circular "plug" in my dif between two of the mounting bolts.
> This
> > > "plug" can be moved with a little finger pressure.  It also appears to
> be the
> > > source of my persistant leak.
> > >
> > > Any ideas what the plug is?  I can't find any clue to it's purpose in
> any of my
> > > manuals or parts books.  Figure E1-5 of the Green Bible shows a pic of
> the
> > > housing and the plug in question is visible, but I can't find any
> reference to
> > > it at all.
> > >
> > > Jeff
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > LRO mailing list
> > > [email-masked] 
> > > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro 
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked] 
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro 
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked] 
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro 

----------------------
Rob MacCormick
Laboratory Safety Manager
EHS Dept.
Boston College
(617)-552-0363
[email-masked] 
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked] 
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 21
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 12:26:32 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] rear dif leak
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Fri, 10 Aug 2001, Rob MacCormick wrote:

:
:new use for iron stomach?
:Obviuosly not applicable to salisbury rear axle...Uh?
:anyone heard from Jeff? he went out back to put a gasket in
:his diff a few days ago....

He probably is suffering from the concussion of dropping it on his head.  A
floor jack works much better than the stomach.

-- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

--__--__--

Message: 22
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Flowmaster, was exhaust blah blah...
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 13:14:58 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Ah, Flowmasters...
    I currently have two of them on my vehicles.  I totally agree with Bill
Adams about how well they are made.  And that wonderful sound!  They don't
burp or rat-at-at-at.  They just accentuate the exhaust slightly from a
stock set-up.

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 23
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 15:51:17 -0400
Subject: [lro] FW: Aston Martin, Jaguar and Land Rover to Create New North
 Ameri can Organization
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Attention Auto And Business Editors: 
> 
> Aston Martin, Jaguar and Land Rover to Create New North American
> Organization
> 
> 
>     
>     IRVINE, Calif., Aug. 10 /CNW/ -- The North American subsidiary
> operations for Aston Martin, Jaguar and Land Rover are creating a new
> organization within the Premier Automotive Group.  The Premier Automotive
> Group is the Consumer Business Group within Ford Motor Company responsible
> for
> premium vehicles.  The new organization will focus on driving forward the
> aggressive growth plans for all three marques, enabling each company to
> better
> leverage their individual positions within the luxury vehicle market, and
> providing the resources to support a stronger franchise network.
>     The new organization will combine sales, marketing, communications,
> franchise development, distribution, parts and customer service. It is
> effective September 1, 2001 and will be headquartered at the new Premier
> Automotive Group facility in Irvine, CA.  All three companies move into
> the
> new Irvine facility from mid-August onwards and will be combining the
> relocation action with the creation of the new organization.  Lincoln and
> Volvo are scheduled to move into the Irvine facility during September.
>     Dr Wolfgang Reitzle, Chairman of the Premier Automotive Group, said
> that
> strong growth in North America was key to the long-term success of the
> group's
> marques.  "North America is the largest luxury vehicle market in the world
> and
> we are very focused on ensuring we have the right business structure to
> help
> realize the full potential of the Premier Automotive Group.  Combining our
> British marques in North America makes great sense for our retailers,
> customers and investors, while creating an environment where they can grow
> stronger as individual brands," continued Dr Reitzle.
>     Mike O'Driscoll, currently President of Jaguar North America, is
> appointed
> President of Aston Martin Jaguar Land Rover North America with immediate
> effect.  O'Driscoll will be responsible for all sales, marketing,
> franchise
> development and customer service activities in North America across all
> three
> companies.
>     O'Driscoll said: "This is a critical period of growth for all three
> marques in North America.  With the integration of operations under this
> new
> organization, we will be better placed to accelerate our sales and
> distribution plans for all three marques, as well as take the best from
> each
> company to deliver a world-class service to our retailers and customers.
>     "With all three British marques operating together, we will start to
> achieve the critical mass required to compete head-to-head with other
> premium
> car and truck manufacturers.  To be successful in the premium market, you
> need
> to be able to offer a broad range of vehicles. With Aston Martin, Jaguar
> and
> Land Rover, we are able to offer that range without diluting the core
> values
> of each individual marque," said O'Driscoll.
>     All three companies will continue to operate selected functions out of
> their existing east coast offices in Lanham, MD and Mahwah, NJ through at
> least mid-2002.  In mid-2002, Premier Automotive Group intends that Aston
> Martin, Jaguar and Land Rover will establish a single consolidated east
> coast
> operations center in Mahwah, NJ.
>     The Land Rover University and Technical Training Center in Lanham, MD
> will
> be retained at its current location.  Further details of this
> consolidation
> will be communicated over the course of the next several months.
>     The Executive Director of the Premier Automotive Group, Vic Doolan,
> said
> Aston Martin, Jaguar and Land Rover were a very natural fit.  "They all
> share
> a similar culture and philosophy combined with a product range that is
> complementary and with virtually no overlap.  Historically, Aston Martin,
> Jaguar and Land Rover retailers have often been co-located on single
> sites.
> Aston Martin Jaguar Land Rover North America will allow us to bring
> synergies
> where they make sense for our customers and retailers while retaining each
> marques' unique culture and identity. With the formation of the new
> organization, we will be able to accelerate our aggressive growth
> strategies
> for all three marques."
>     Howard Mosher has elected to leave Land Rover in 2002, but will
> continue
> as President, Land Rover North America, within the new consolidated
> organization until then.  In addition to this role, he will assist the
> internal and external transition teams through the initial integration
> process.
>     Howard Mosher said: "With the implementation of the Premier Automotive
> Group strategy in North America it is clear that a new organization
> structure
> is required.  My role over the coming months will be to facilitate in
> whatever
> positive fashion I can, the transition for Land Rover retailers and
> associates
> into the new Aston Martin Jaguar Land Rover structure".
>     In addition to the consolidation of the British marques, a new group
> will
> be formed to provide shared services to all the European brands, including
> Volvo, and selected services to Lincoln Mercury.  These functions include
> Human Resources, Finance, Information Technology and Retail
> Transformation.
>     Aston Martin Jaguar Land Rover also announced several new management
> positions as part of the establishment of the new organization.  The
> following
> positions report to Mike O'Driscoll, President Aston Martin Jaguar Land
> Rover
> North America:
>     
>      John Walton, Vice President and General Manager, Aston Martin
>      Sue Callaway, Vice President and General Manager, Jaguar
>      Steve McKnight, Vice President and General Manager, Land Rover
>     
>     All of the following positions have responsibility for Aston Martin,
> Jaguar and Land Rover, and will report to O'Driscoll:
>     
>      Fran O'Hagan, Vice President Franchise Operations
>      Doug Speck, Vice President Retail Operations
>      Simon Sproule, Vice President Communications and Marketing Services
>      Gary Temple, Vice President Customer Services
>     
>     
>     
>     
>     
> 
> 
> 
> -30-
> 
> This press release concerns more than one organization.
> To view releases from one of these organizations, please select from
> below.
> 
>   JAGUAR
>   LAND ROVER
>   ASTON MARTIN
>   PREMIER AUTOMOTIVE GROUP
>   FORD MOTOR COMPANY
> 
> 
>  
> 
>   _____  
> 
>  <http://portfolio.newswire.ca> 
> 
>   <http://www.newswire.ca/images/nav-top1.gif>	
>   <http://www.newswire.ca/images/nav-left1.gif>
> <http://www.newswire.ca/images/nav-right1.gif>	
>   <http://www.newswire.ca/images/nav-top2.gif>	
>   <http://www.newswire.ca/images/nav-left2.gif>
> <http://www.newswire.ca/images/nav-right2.gif>	
>   <http://www.newswire.ca/images/nav-top3.gif>	
>   <http://www.newswire.ca/images/nav-left3.gif>
> <http://www.newswire.ca/images/nav-right3.gif>	
> 
>  <http://www.newswire.ca/>	General Inquiries - [email-masked]
> <mailto:[email-masked]>
> Technical Issues - [email-masked] <mailto:[email-masked]>
> ) 2001 Canada NewsWire, all rights reserved
> <http://www.newswire.ca/disclaim.html>
> <http://www.newswire.ca/images/buttons/rt.gif>	

--__--__--

Message: 24
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] scotty's adapter
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 10:10:48 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

TeriAnn, aren't you now the distributor for Scotty's adapters.  If you still 
are, surprized you haven't chimed in already on this thread.

On another note.  Had the experience of backing down my very steep driveway 
in the 109 in high range with a load of fertilizer in the back.  Good thing 
the driveway flattens out at the bottom or I'd be floating off to Japan.  
Finally see what TeriAnn is talking about trying to stop a 109 in reverse.

I wouldn't worry about ways to stop a 109 going forward, its in reverse that 
they are a danger.  It would seem that a booster would exascerbate the 
problem as enough pressure to stop the rear brakes would easily lock up the 
front.  Trying to stop an 88 going backwards, when the front wheels lock up, 
gets real exciting, right now!!!!  Probably only slightly less so in a 109.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

>From: Russ Wilson <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: [email-masked]
>Subject: Re: [lro] scotty's adapter
>Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 20:32:57 -0700
>
>
>TeriAnn Wakeman is the distributer for Scotty these days.  Drop her a
>note.
>
>On Thursday, August 9, 2001, at 03:45 PM, G. Mugele wrote:
>
>>
>>At 12:25 PM -0400 8/9/01, [email-masked] wrote:
>>>Anyone out there with the Scotty's Adapter and bushing that's willing
>>>to part
>>>with it.  Or anyone know the location to buy one?
>>
>>did ya try contacting Scotty?  Last I talked to him he had a couple
>>dozen adaptors looking like they were ready to go.
>>
>>Not sure if this is still a good  one but you could try this email
>>address:
>>[email-masked]
>>
>>       _
>>     / o\_         Gerald Mugele
>>    /   )-- \       [email-masked]
>>   /    |            Glen Ellen, CA
>>*** "In America, anyone can become president. That's one of the risks
>>you take."   ~ Adlai
>>Stevenson _______________________________________________
>>LRO mailing list
>>[email-masked]
>>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
>>
>
>On this date in 1936 Jesse Owens kicks sand in Hitler's face and wins
>his fourth gold of the Olympic games in Berlin.
>
>Russ Wilson
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 25
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Flowmaster, was exhaust blah blah...
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 10:12:05 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> on sound wave cancellation rather than airflow damping/constriction
> which keeps the exhaust gasses flowing smoothly

Thanks for the recomendation Bill.
The book I got spent a lot of time discussing the different methods of noise
reductrion.  Next to spending a couple G for an electronic muffler, the
flowmaster design seems to be the way to go.
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 26
From: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 16:21:04 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] scotty's adapter/breaking
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Peter,

Thanks to you and all who responded in regard to the adapter.  I got a hold 
of Scotty and will be discussing the conversion with him tonight.

As for breaking, I'm going to go with the old drag racing "trick" of line 
locks.  Totally positive pressure till released.  Will be installing the line 
lock set up to the rear breaks of the 109 and maybe a separate system to the 
fronts.  They are no longer outrageously priced and pretty reasonable.

Matt

--__--__--

Message: 27
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] scotty's adapter/breaking
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 16:28:17 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Matt,
    Inform a newby to the race world what line locks are and how they work
with relation to brakes.

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 28
From: "Rich & Lori Williams" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 17:08:10 -0700
Subject: [lro] LRO - aftermarket tranny bits
Reply-To: [email-masked]

OK, I'm finally facing the tranny/transfer rebuild in my frame-off project.
I've already got more than enough stuff to do in life so I am going to have
someone else do this for me.  And I have two choices that I need some
guidance on from those of you who have been down this road before.  I've got
a existing A suffix transmission in the truck now and I thought I'd bump it
up to a D/E/F suffix unit for the extra durability and ease of sourcing
parts.  And I need to do both the transfer case and the transmission,
so......

A) Including all Genuine parts and labor someone locally can do the rebuild
for about $2,300 U.S.

B) I can buy a D/E/F suffix'd tranny and xfer for $900 outright.  The catch
is that this thing has been rebuilt with non genuine parts.

Financially speaking, the choice is obvious.  But how good are the non
genuine parts in a situation like this?  Anyone have any experience with
this sort of thing?

Thanks everyone,

Rich Williams
1960 SII 109sw

--__--__--

Message: 29
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 19:46:19 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] LRO - aftermarket tranny bits
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Fri, 10 Aug 2001, Rich & Lori Williams wrote:

:
:Financially speaking, the choice is obvious.  But how good are the non
:genuine parts in a situation like this?  Anyone have any experience with
:this sort of thing?
:

Depends on how good the parts are.  There's quite a lot of varation.
For 900 bucks, I don't think that you're going to get a fully rebuilt
box.  I'd expect one with new bearings, seals, and used shafts and gears.
One hopes the worn out gears are replaced.  Nothing wrong with this, if it's
done right.

I'll encourage you to do it yourself.  It's not that hard;  if I can do
this, anyone who knows how to use a wrench can.  It took me two weekends and
a few evenings.  One weekend to yank it apart, figure out what I needed, order
parts (non-genuine).  Couple nights to clean, and an afternoon to source the
bearings and seals from a local bearing factor, and a weekend to put it back
together.

-- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

--__--__--

Message: 30
From: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 21:48:30 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] scotty's adapter/breaking
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Kirk,

Basically, it's a valve/solinoid set up you run your break line through.  You 
apply the break, press a switch (located in the interior...in a drag car 
usually on the shifter), this valve/solinoid holds the brake fluid pressure 
until you release it by pressing the button again to activate the solenoid to 
release.

These are used at the starting line, on a drag car, to lock the front (rear 
wheel drive car) breaks and get the RPMs up before launching the car without 
breaking the starting line light beams.  Quite effective and what a nice neck 
snapping experiance.

These are available thru many parts houses.  I'm going to go through Summit 
Racing.  I think it's www.summitracing.com

Went through some steep stops at the rally this month and wished I had them 
then as the leg got tired holding the break, and we all know the 
effectiveness/trustworthiness of the e-break on reversal and/or steep 
inclines.

Hope this helps
Matt

--__--__--

Message: 31
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 21:14:11 -0500
From: "Andrew H. Litkowiak" <[email-masked]>
To: Land Rover List <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Help starting an old diesel
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hello the list,

I'm getting ready to crank over an old 2.25 that hasn't been started
in nearly 5 years. It ran perfectly when parked (inside). I intend to
temporarily bypass the fuel tank and run it off a gas can.

Do any of you diesel fans have some pointers for me? Dos and don'ts
when priming the system? Any spots that need lube before cranking?

Andy Litkowiak

--__--__--

Message: 32
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] LRO - aftermarket tranny bits
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 17:25:38 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Rich, have you considered ordering an ex-mod tranny from the UK?  Or a
rebuilt tranny from the UK?  Simmonittes has series III trannies for $450.
Pete
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich & Lori Williams" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2001 14:08
Subject: [lro] LRO - aftermarket tranny bits

>
> OK, I'm finally facing the tranny/transfer rebuild in my frame-off
project.
> I've already got more than enough stuff to do in life so I am going to
have
> someone else do this for me.  And I have two choices that I need some
> guidance on from those of you who have been down this road before.  I've
got
> a existing A suffix transmission in the truck now and I thought I'd bump
it
> up to a D/E/F suffix unit for the extra durability and ease of sourcing
> parts.  And I need to do both the transfer case and the transmission,
> so......
>
> A) Including all Genuine parts and labor someone locally can do the
rebuild
> for about $2,300 U.S.
>
> B) I can buy a D/E/F suffix'd tranny and xfer for $900 outright.  The
catch
> is that this thing has been rebuilt with non genuine parts.
>
> Financially speaking, the choice is obvious.  But how good are the non
> genuine parts in a situation like this?  Anyone have any experience with
> this sort of thing?
>
> Thanks everyone,
>
> Rich Williams
> 1960 SII 109sw
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 33
To: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 23:26:27 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] Intake and Exhaust lengths, engine design
From: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Peter, one of the better "books" I have found on engine tuning is free. 
It is the manual for Dynomation.  The full program is available as a free
download.  Without the key you can't create or modify files so you can
only play with the big block Chevy and Kaw ZX-11 files that come with the
demo.  Manual is a "read me " file.  Explanations are clear and concise.

Chris

--__--__--

Message: 34
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 21:54:14 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] scotty's adapter/breaking
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Speak for yourself, my e-brake holds me on any incline. Just put a new
seal in, clean the drum and shoes and adjust it and it works great In
fact I can say that I've never had a better e-brake in any car.

[email-masked] wrote:

> Went through some steep stops at the rally this month and wished I had them
> then as the leg got tired holding the break, and we all know the
> effectiveness/trustworthiness of the e-break on reversal and/or steep
> inclines.

Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 35
From: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 23:56:37 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] scotty's adapter/breaking
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Oh, go ahead and brag why don't you  :)

Matt

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Message: 36
From: "Mark  Love" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Early SII Drivetrain
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 00:10:31 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I have a 58 series1 that is my daily driver. it was originally a diesel but now has a 2.25 gas
engine. From the looks of things the trans was never changed. Just a guess on my part though. I
believe that the diesel of that time was a 2.25 thus the painless conversion. One thing i do know is
that the Heritagh Certificate states the truck was built  Jan. 1 1958.  Mark Love

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Message: 37
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 22:07:12 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] scotty's adapter/breaking
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Chris said there were a couple Nissan diesels on e-bay, and to try the 
binder bunch bulletin board also.

[email-masked] wrote:
> 
> Oh, go ahead and brag why don't you  :)
> 
> Matt
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

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Message: 38
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Intake and Exhaust lengths, engine design
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 18:02:32 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Sounds good...download from where?
Pete
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2001 20:26
Subject: Re: [lro] Intake and Exhaust lengths, engine design

> 
> Peter, one of the better "books" I have found on engine tuning is free. 
> It is the manual for Dynomation.  The full program is available as a free
> download.  Without the key you can't create or modify files so you can
> only play with the big block Chevy and Kaw ZX-11 files that come with the
> demo.  Manual is a "read me " file.  Explanations are clear and concise.
> 
> Chris
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 39
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Intake and Exhaust lengths, engine design
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 18:07:30 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> the Haynes manual.  Actually, I think Haynes has two FI books, one of them
> is Bosch specific

Got both of those already.

> electrical.  Charles Probst also has a book called 'Bosch Fuel Injection
and
> Engine Management'  ISBN 0837603005.  According to many people Probst's
book
> is the bible on Bosch FI, but I have not read it yet.  It should also
cover
> the whole range of Bosch systems from LH-Motronic down to K-Jetronic.
>     I just did a search and came up with 'How to Tune and Modify Bosch
Fuel
> Injection', by Ben Watson ISBN 0879385707.

Ben Watson wrote two of the books I got last night, How to build, tune and
modify intakes and exhaust....and HtB,TandM Cranks Pistons and Con Rods.
Entertaining, but also very informative stuff.
I did see his FI book.
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 40
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 23:14:03 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] scotty's adapter/breaking
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Fri, 10 Aug 2001 [email-masked] wrote:

:
:Oh, go ahead and brag why don't you  :)
:

Really, if the handbrake is set up right, they work really well.  Mine will
hold my 109 on any slope I can drive up, and some I can't.  It is
disconcerting to have it roll back 6 or 8 inches while all the drive line
slack is taken out, though.  If the brake is mis-adjusted, or oily, or has
broken springs, it doesn't work nearly so well.  I once had a disturbing
experience with Mr Sinclair.  We were parked on a street with a very steep
hill.  My then girlfriend had set the handbrake, and left the tranny in
neutral.  When we came back from dinner, she couldn't get in, because there
was a tree blocking the door.  Either trees grow really fast in Cinncinati,
or the truck had rolled several feet.  I cleaned the brake shoes and drum
shortly after....

-- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

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Message: 41
From: "Andre Shoumatoff" <[email-masked]>
To: "Land Rover List" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 01:37:59 -0400
Subject: [lro] Looking for a Rover in NE/Canada
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Looking to purchase Series III or late IIA,
preferably hardtop or station wagon in 88 
or a 109pu. Trucks in Canada and diesel are OK.  

Thanks,
Andre

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