Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #43 - 21 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 03:05:37 -0400 (EDT)

Send LRO mailing list submissions to
	[email-masked]

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
	http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
	[email-masked]

You can reach the person managing the list at
	[email-masked]

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of LRO digest..."

Today's Topics:

   1. Kodiaks (Kirk Hillman)
   2. Re: engine tuning and Vacume question.- headers ([email-masked])
   3. Re: Parabolics (Rick Grant)
   4. Back pressure, etc. Long (Kirk Hillman)
   5. Re: looking for little bits... (Faure, Marin)
   6. Re: Parabolics (Jeff Bieler)
   7. RE: Back pressure, etc. Long (Perrone Ford)
   8. RE: Re: engine tuning and Vacume question.- headers (Lee Jones)
   9. Re:SIIA gearbox and engine in my late S1 ([email-masked])
  10. Re: Back pressure, etc. Long (Kirk Hillman)
  11. RE: Back pressure, etc. Long (Perrone Ford)
  12. Re: Kodiak heater (Jeff Bieler)
  13. Re: Back pressure, etc. Long ([email-masked])
  14. RE: Back pressure, etc. Long (Perrone Ford)
  15. Re: Back pressure, etc. Long ([email-masked])
  16. Re: 200tdi fit? (Winn Bearden)
  17. Re: Back pressure, etc. Long (Kirk Hillman)
  18. RE: Back pressure, etc. Long (Perrone Ford)
  19. Re: Back pressure, etc. Long (Kirk Hillman)
  20. Locking differential. What options? (aaron)
  21. Re: 200tdi fit? (William J. Rice)

--__--__--

Message: 1
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 16:37:39 -0600
Subject: [lro] Kodiaks
Reply-To: [email-masked]

    I forgot to ask, would someone take a picture of their distribution box
inside the cab?  It appears to me that it should have a metal flap with a
bent arm sticking out the side to control flow either to the cab or
windshield.  I am only guessing based on the holes I see.

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 2
From: [email-masked]
To: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 08:54:38 +1000
Subject: [lro] Re: engine tuning and Vacume question.- headers
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Kirk & Perrone have been discussing exahust back pressure and Kirk just raised
the issued of headers,

My personal, non-science based experience in fitting headers to the series II
engine in my series i Landy was that it significantly increased the available
torque at low revs. - on my 'play track at the time I could go around the same
corned in one gear higher and still pull away.  - Sorry Kirk but this logic
seems to work against your assertion of restricting the flow increases the
torque.

Of course this was not a science based experiment, on observational and the
revs. were pretty low.

Richard C

--__--__--

Message: 3
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 17:06:11 -0600
To: [email-masked]
From: Rick Grant <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Parabolics
Reply-To: [email-masked]

At 16:33 08/08/01 -0600, Kirk Hillman, wrote
>     My Kodiak has never worked very well from my point of view.  Maybe it is
>because I live in Alberta, Canada and we do occasionally get down to -40C.
>I don't think it produces much heat or moves it very well either.

And maybe it's working as advertised.  I remember in the early seventies 
being given a ride on Christmas Day from Dawson City Yukon to the mining 
town of Fortymile in a nearly new Series with two heaters.  The outside air 
temperature was somewhere in the minus 30's and not much higher in the 
Series.  I was told that they were all like that.

I have two heaters in my SII, a front footwell thing and a so-called 
"arctic heater" behind the seat bulkhead.  I'd be better off building a 
campfire in the back.

But a great way to clear frost from the inside of a Series is to give two 
border collies a good run and then stick them inside.  Five minutes tops 
and those little dog furnaces have done the job.

                                             Rick Grant

  				  1959 Series II   "88"
				  VORIZO

Rick Grant Communications
Media and Crisis Management
Calgary Ottawa
www.rickgrant.com

--__--__--

Message: 4
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 17:14:28 -0600
Subject: [lro] Back pressure, etc. Long
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Scientific or not, it's a real world observation.  I don't really care what
physics textbooks tell me if I don't see that same relationship in the real
world.
    Let me tell you a brief story which should help explain why I have grown
up believing this backpressure 'theory'.
    My best and oldest friend (seems like forever) has a father (I'll call
him Mr. T) that is not only mechanically inclined but very intelligent.  In
many ways I revered Mr. T as the ultimate source of knowledge on anything
mechanical.  When we were just little kids I was riding my Honda XR's.  I
taught Eric, my best friend, to ride.  After sufficiently catching the bug,
he convinced his dad to buy one for him.  Mr. T would buy a bike, entirely
refurbish it mechanically and put it in the garage.  This went on for years.
When we were in our teens one whole wall of the garage was lined with bikes,
like you see in a showroom.  Over the course of these years I had many
occasion to talk with this man.  Mr. T liked to talk at length.  During one
of these talks he told me about a friend of his that had built a nice new
Trail 125.  This friend liked to tinker so he started looking at the
exhaust.  If anyone remembers, the old Hondas had really tiny exhaust pipes
on them (sort of like the LR's).  Anyhow, this guy tried a larger tail pipe.
It didn't seem to be as strong.  His solution for testing was similar to the
nail idea mentioned earlier.  He took fender washers of the correct diameter
that fit in the union between the header and tail pipe and started to
experiment.  He rode the bike and tested various things such as
acceleration, throttle response, top speed, etc.  Note:  if you make a big
change in flow re-jetting is required.  He would take the fender washer out
and file the whole a little and try it again.  Eventually he noticed the
performance starting to drop off.  He grabbed a new washer and filed it to
the last measurement.  I don't remember what the measurement was, but I know
it surprised me how small it was (something like 3/8").
    You see all sorts of motorized vehicles with large exhausts, especially
with DIY cars.  I know some of those exhausts are actually hurting their
performance.  I believe the only true way to tell is to do trials with a
particular vehicle.
    I don't know the physics behind 'scavenging' but it makes sense to me
that there must be a sweet spot or perfect proportion that allows the
exhaust to flow easily so that the exhausted gases are almost pulled from
the head.  An armchair theory anyway...

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 5
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 16:29:22 -0700 
Subject: [lro] Re: looking for little bits...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 15:36:35 -0700
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] looking for little bits...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>I'm trying to locate one lifting/d-ring for the front of my IIA. 
>Also, where would be a good source to locate a replacement plastic/rubber knob for
the front winshield vent?

In the US, you might try giving Rovers North a call.  They sometimes have odd-lot 
parts or detail parts for sale.  A better, albeit more time-consuming solution would 
be to get hold of a copy of Land Rover Owner International magazine, which I suspect 
has more ads in it than the other Land Rover magazines.  In the back there are ads 
from some of the breaker's yards in the UK.  Give one a call and tell whoever answers 
what you're looking for.  There's a good chance they will have a junked IIA in the yard 
that they can pull the part(s) you want off of.  Or perhaps they've already got bins of 
re-usable trim or detail items they've been pulling off Land Rovers as they scrap them.
  
I've had pretty good luck getting the occasional detail part this way, everything from a 
brand new SIII steering wheel still in the original box to a "Four Wheel Drive Station 
Wagon" badge that goes underneath the Land Rover nameplate oval on the rear body 
panel.  In the case of the badge, they simply went out and drilled the rivets on a 
wrecked Land Rover they had on the lot.  Shipping from the UK can get pretty pricey, 
however, even by slow boat.

If you know anyone in the UK who at least tolerates your interest in Land Rovers, they 
can be invaluable help in locating the odds and ends you might need because they can 
actually drive to the breakers' yards and search around themselves.  I have a friend in the 
greater Manchester area who still has a handful of Series IIIs from his early days in the 
commercial vehicle hire business.  None of them run, to my knowledge, and as his fleet today 
consists of current model SUVs, estate wagons, vans, and lorries, the old SIIIs aren't 
even a parts source for him.  I've coerced him into sending me a few odd bits now and then, 
but his Series enthusiast days have long gone, and he doesn't like poking around them 
himself anymore, nor will he send his mechanics out to take anything off on company time.  He's 
let me pull stuff off them myself on the few occasions I've had time to visit his yard.
Unfortunately, none of his SIIIs have bumper D-rings on them, because I asked him when I decided 
to install a pair a few years ago. I ended up buying new ones from Rovers North.  But the chances 
are good there are wiped out Series Land Rovers in the UK yards that have just what you need
 on them.  The trick is finding out where they are.  It makes an enjoyable challenge if you don't 
mind running up a bit of a phone bill.  And today, some of the larger yards are probably on the 
internet, or at least have e-mail, so you may be able to conduct your search for free.

We recently bought new tires for the Range Rover, and the shop discovered that one of the 
rear wheels was cracked (which explained why the tire was always slowly losing air).  I have no idea 
how much a brand new wheel costs (the standard three-spoke design).  But the tire company 
suggested I call a wrecking yard here in the Seattle area. That yard didn't have any Range Rover 
wheels, but he got on his computer and found a yard south of Tacoma that had five of them, two of 
which were in virtually perfect condition.  I called that yard, and they sold me one of the good wheels 
for about $100.  When it arrived, I couldn't find a mark on it.  It was for all practical purposes a 
brand new wheel.  I have a feeling that $100 is a hell of a lot less than a new Range Rover wheel 
would have cost me from the dealer or even a parts supplier like Rovers North.

So try the breakers yards in the UK.  I'll bet you'll find what you want at a very reasonable price.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

--__--__--

Message: 6
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 16:30:15 -0700
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Parabolics
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I've seen these pages on the LR FAQ web site, but I don't know how helpful it
will be for you.

<http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/kodiak1.html>
<http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/kodiak2.html>

Jeff

Kirk Hillman wrote:

>     Who knows what the stock Kodiak installation looked like?  I have a hand
> throttle and numerous extra gauges on my LHD 88".  As such a previous owner
> mounted the plate holding the three controls horizontally on the right side
> of the hand throttle.  Is there a parts book or something that I could
> see/get that has pictures of this as it came of the factory floor?
>     My Kodiak has never worked very well from my point of view.  Maybe it is
> because I live in Alberta, Canada and we do occasionally get down to -40C.
> I don't think it produces much heat or moves it very well either.  Maybe
> something is plugged in the heater core?  And the fan is running at half
> speed?  ; )
>
> Kirk
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 7
From: "Perrone Ford" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Back pressure, etc. Long
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 19:51:15 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Ok Kirk,

	This will NOT be a bash email.  I will ask some direct questions and offer
a couple of opinions and hopefully we can "get to bottom" of this thing..

First, there are a few issues at hand:

1.  We are comparing motorcycles to cars and there IS a difference
2.  The motorcycles in question, were they 2-stroke of 4 stroke motors?
3.  Was it possible that the motorcycle was intended to be used at high RPM?

Alright, now a few comments

1.  You are correct, there is a sweet spot for exhausts, but it depends on
where you need it to make power.
2.  Exhaust size demands depend on intake airflow, valve sizes, and cam
profile.
3.  There are a LOT of guys who have lots of success with mechanical things
without knowing the "whys".
4.  People who don't know the why's of things often have trouble forecasting
"what if" scenarios.

Now some basics,

	Its more than likely that the motorcycle in question had an exhaust with
more flow than intake flow.  This is common in situations where vehicles see
more than one engine in the same frame and costs are being saved.  I'd bet
good money that the exhaust on the 3.5, the 3.9, and the 4.2 are
interchangeable even though the flow of each is markedly different than the
next.

	Do you remember Supertrapp?  These came to prominence because of exactly
what you found on that Honda.  People wanted to tune their own exhausts
because the factory was doing such a crappy job, particularly Honda.  I
remember back in the late 70s when Suzuki RM series dirtbikes were killing
EVERYBODY because they were REALLY working on proper exhaust tuning.

	You are correct that there are many vehicles out there with exhausts too
large for their application.  But when manufacturers bolt up the same
exhausts for 3 engine trim levels, this is the most economical way to get it
done.  And those kids you see with the lowered Japanese cars in most
instances are putting large exhaust TIPS on standard sized exhausts so you
can't use that as a barometer.

	Scavenging in the pure sense isn't difficult to understand.  Basically what
happens is that when the piston is finishing the power stoke the exhaust
valve is opening.  If no scavenging is happening, the exhaust gases will
just sit in the combustion chamber until the piston starts to rise on the
exhaust stroke and push it out into the exhaust header.  If scavenging IS
taking place, when the exhaust valve opens, the gases rushing out of the
exhaust from the other chambers create a vacuum behind them if they are
moving fast enough. This in effect pulls some of the exhaust gases out of
the combustion chamber and makes it easier for the piston to come up on the
exhaust stroke.  Since that piston is not having to fight the spent gases
and push so much of it out, the engine spins easier and preserves more of
its torque.  Since we want those gases traveling as fast as possible in the
header to create maximum vacuum behind them, we need to keep the header
pipes small, and we need to keep them hot.  There is diminishing returns on
the header size where they are so small they begin to restrict flow, but you
can never keep the gases too hot.  At higher RPMs the smaller pipes become
more of a restriction to flow so they have to be opened up.  This helps the
top end, but hurts low end torque.

	That's it.  That's the BIG theory behind all this.  You cannot design an
exhaust that maximizes power at all rpms in a common street engine.  You
either have to shoot for low end torque or high end power.  The narrower the
band of rpms you have to work in, the more efficient you can make the
exhaust.  But its also why placing restrictions down near the end of the
line (like a muffler) really don't help matters much.  The exhaust has
cooled so much and is traveling so slow by the time it gets down there, its
almost immaterial.  Since a dirt bike has 1/3 the length or so of exhaust,
changes made at the middle or end of the pipe are more significant.

Hope I didn't come of like an asshole.

-Perrone

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf
> Of Kirk Hillman
> Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 7:14 PM
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: [lro] Back pressure, etc. Long
>
>
>
> Scientific or not, it's a real world observation.  I don't really
> care what
> physics textbooks tell me if I don't see that same relationship
> in the real
> world.
>     Let me tell you a brief story which should help explain why I
> have grown
> up believing this backpressure 'theory'.
>     My best and oldest friend (seems like forever) has a father (I'll call
> him Mr. T) that is not only mechanically inclined but very
> intelligent.  In
> many ways I revered Mr. T as the ultimate source of knowledge on anything
> mechanical.  When we were just little kids I was riding my Honda XR's.  I
> taught Eric, my best friend, to ride.  After sufficiently
> catching the bug,
> he convinced his dad to buy one for him.  Mr. T would buy a bike, entirely
> refurbish it mechanically and put it in the garage.  This went on
> for years.
> When we were in our teens one whole wall of the garage was lined
> with bikes,
> like you see in a showroom.  Over the course of these years I had many
> occasion to talk with this man.  Mr. T liked to talk at length.
> During one
> of these talks he told me about a friend of his that had built a nice new
> Trail 125.  This friend liked to tinker so he started looking at the
> exhaust.  If anyone remembers, the old Hondas had really tiny
> exhaust pipes
> on them (sort of like the LR's).  Anyhow, this guy tried a larger
> tail pipe.
> It didn't seem to be as strong.  His solution for testing was
> similar to the
> nail idea mentioned earlier.  He took fender washers of the
> correct diameter
> that fit in the union between the header and tail pipe and started to
> experiment.  He rode the bike and tested various things such as
> acceleration, throttle response, top speed, etc.  Note:  if you make a big
> change in flow re-jetting is required.  He would take the fender
> washer out
> and file the whole a little and try it again.  Eventually he noticed the
> performance starting to drop off.  He grabbed a new washer and filed it to
> the last measurement.  I don't remember what the measurement was,
> but I know
> it surprised me how small it was (something like 3/8").
>     You see all sorts of motorized vehicles with large exhausts,
> especially
> with DIY cars.  I know some of those exhausts are actually hurting their
> performance.  I believe the only true way to tell is to do trials with a
> particular vehicle.
>     I don't know the physics behind 'scavenging' but it makes sense to me
> that there must be a sweet spot or perfect proportion that allows the
> exhaust to flow easily so that the exhausted gases are almost pulled from
> the head.  An armchair theory anyway...
>
> Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 8
From: "Lee Jones" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Re: engine tuning and Vacume question.- headers
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 20:18:29 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I don't think that Kirk was saying that restricting the flow increases
torque forever - Just that TOO open an exhaust system only works at high
RPM - thus lessening the torque and HP at low rpm. Perrone's arguments about
race cars and dragsters is similarly flawed as none of these engines produce
any significant power in the lower RPM range.  Headers with a matching
exhaust system will increase power (torque and HP) IF THEY ARE TUNED for the
RPM band you want to affect.  There ain't no free lunch!

Lee

"There are two kinds of fool. One says, 'This is old, and therefore good.'
And one says, 'This is new, and therefore better.'"

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf
Of [email-masked]
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 6:55 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Re: engine tuning and Vacume question.- headers

Kirk & Perrone have been discussing exahust back pressure and Kirk just
raised
the issued of headers,

My personal, non-science based experience in fitting headers to the series
II
engine in my series i Landy was that it significantly increased the
available
torque at low revs. - on my 'play track at the time I could go around the
same
corned in one gear higher and still pull away.  - Sorry Kirk but this logic
seems to work against your assertion of restricting the flow increases the
torque.

Of course this was not a science based experiment, on observational and the
revs. were pretty low.

Richard C
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 9
From: [email-masked]
To: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 10:14:20 +1000
Subject: [lro] Re:SIIA gearbox and engine in my late S1
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Sephen,

I fitted a series II gearbox (and engine) to my series I,
If yours really is a1958 model it should have the pedals (clutch and brake)
mounted on the firewall and as such just changing over to the hydralic process
from a later series vehicle should be a bolt in job

If your pedals are through the floor it is probably an earlier Series I, check
the wheelbase, should be 80 inches not 88.

If yours raelly was an 88 inch series one, the bell bousing and clutch actuator
from the old set-up, I believe, should be able to be swapped for the one
attached to your new engine.

Personally my preference is for the mechanical actuation, as long as the sleve
on the shaft is fine and the pins not worn or broken, there is nothing much to
go wrong, the occasional adjustment is not hard to do once you have done it once
or twice.  My preference has always been to, as far as possible, to swap
components rather than modify existing ones too much - it makes it much easier
to fix later when something brakes, you just get another one from the spares
shed, rather than have to go through the challenge of trying to manufacture
something again

Of course all my experience is RHD orientated, so some aspects of your query I
have no experience with.

Hope this helps, if I can provide further info. please email again (I'm on
digest so it might take me a while to get back to you unless you email direct)

Richard C

I'm getting ready to install my SIIA gearbox and engine in my late S1 (1958
LHD 88"), and I need to address the clutch actuation issue. The S1
mechanically actuates the clutch withdrawal unit (from the LHS) while the
SIIA is a hydraulically actuated unit (from the RHS). I need to decide
whether to go mechanical or hydraulic, and how to go about it,  so input
from anyone who's done it would be appreciated.

For those not familiar with Series 1's, the pedals go through the floor, so
going hydraulic would probably involve cutting a hole in the bulkhead and
installing an SIIA pedal assembly on the engine side of the bulkhead.
Does anyone know if the S1 clutch withdrawal unit will bolt into and work in
the SIIA bellhousing?  If it does, I would consider cutting a hole in the
LHS of the bellhousing to use the S1 mechanical approach.

Sephen,

I fitted a series II gearbox (and engine) to my series I,

If yours really is a1958

--__--__--

Message: 10
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Back pressure, etc. Long
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 18:39:23 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Perrone,
    Fear not, I don't think you came off as an A*SEHOLE.  For clarification,
the bike I spoke of was a low RPM, tractor-like, four stroke, SOHC engine.
    You make good points, as I think valid points can also be made for the
opposing camp.  So who is going to do actual trials?

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 11
From: "Perrone Ford" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Back pressure, etc. Long
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 21:00:54 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

	If someone wants to give me a busted 3.9, I'll rebuild it and have some fun
with it.  Or if you can wait a couple of weeks, I'll build the motor on the
computer and we can see what the exhaust changes will do to it.  Maybe I'll
order my software tomorrow.

-P

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf
> Of Kirk Hillman
> Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 8:39 PM
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: [lro] Back pressure, etc. Long
>
>
>
> Perrone,
>     Fear not, I don't think you came off as an A*SEHOLE.  For
> clarification,
> the bike I spoke of was a low RPM, tractor-like, four stroke, SOHC engine.
>     You make good points, as I think valid points can also be made for the
> opposing camp.  So who is going to do actual trials?
>
> Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 12
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 19:04:30 -0700
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Kodiak heater
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Ok Ron, now I am confused.

The unmarked black pull knob under the "Air Control" knob next to the wheel appears to be
the water control vavle.  When I pulled it, the heater worked.

That being said, between the starter button and the hand throttle is a knob marked
"Water      Fast      Slow" which turns left to right, but does not pull.  What does that
one do?

Jeff

RON WARD wrote:

> Hey, Don't blame me for your ignorance!  ;>
>
> The following description is for the truck I just sold to Jeff.  If may differ
> from any some other particular setup.
>
> There are two knobs in the panel just to the left of the "safety gauge" and to
> the right of the steering wheel.  The top push lever controls the air.  The
> bottom, the hot water.  Now, with the top lever pushed in the air to the
> blower on the engine side of the bulkhead is cut off.  Pull the top lever out
> and the valve opens and fresh air from the front of the truck can feed the
> blower and be pushed passed the heater core through my nifty Maytag dryer hose
> setup.
>
> With the bottom lever pushed in, the valve in the heater hose is closed and
> hot water from the engine is not allowed to flow freely to the heater core.
> If the blower motor is turned on at the dash and the air valve is open and the
> water valve is closed you won't feel much heat.  Open the water valve by
> pulling out the lower knob and open the air valve by pulling out the top lever
> and hit the fan switch and you are warming the cabin.  Here's the good part.
> At speed, you can turn off the blower motor and use ram air to heat the
> cabin.
>
> It works great in the winters we get here in Georgia and should be fine for
> yours out west.
>
> Cheers!
>
> >>> [email-masked] 08/08/01 03:56PM >>>
>
> Water valve on the dash?  OK.  I give.  Which one is that?  I know where the
> fan switch is and I know the air control knob.  What am I missing now?
>
> This is fun, busting your chops over your old truck.... ; - )
>
> Jeff
>
> RON WARD wrote:
>
> > What do you mean "get the Kodiak working"?  Open the water valve on the
> dash, open the air valve, and hit the fan switch and you'll have more heat
> that you can stand?
> >
> > >>> [email-masked] 08/08/01 01:44PM >>>
> >
> > Nah.  Please pass on the hard top to a nice home.  All I need to do is get
> the Kodiak working before what passes for winter around here.
> >
> > Jeff
> >
> > RON WARD wrote:
> >
> > > Sounds like yours will be used for around town and some varied off-roading
> so you should be ok with the 2 leaf.  If you ever want the hard top sitting
> out back of my carriage house, get the 3 leaf.
> > >
> > > >>> [email-masked] 08/08/01 12:29PM >>>
> > >
> > > Old Man Emu.  I have a good deal on them here.
> > >
> > > Ray at Rocky Mountain was pretty confident that the 2leaf was the way to
> go for me, but I wanted to
> > > here from owners as well.
> > >
> > > Jeff
> > >
> > > RON WARD wrote:
> > >
> > > > Jeff, you want the RM 2 leafers in the rear with the soft top.  What
> shocks are you going to put on?
> > > >
> > > > >>> [email-masked] 08/08/01 10:53AM >>>
> > > >
> > > > It seems that the call for the 3 leaf pack is coming mostly from guys
> with the
> > > > hard top.
> > > >
> > > > I have a soft top and don't plan to change.  With that in mind, is a 2
> leaf
> > > > setup the way for me to go?
> > > >
> > > > Jeff
> > > >
> > > > N Forbes wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Frank, the Red Zit has three leaf rears and they work well. YOu want
> to have
> > > > > some gear in the back though. Two leaf rears give a really nice ride
> but I
> > > > > think they may be more succeptable to sagging.
> > > > >
> > > > > Niall Forbes
> > > > > 66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
> > > > > Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
> > > > > The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm
> > > > >
> > > > > "See the happy moron,
> > > > > He doesn't give a damn.
> > > > > I wish I were a moron.
> > > > > My God! Perhaps I am!"
> > > > > --author unknown
> > > > >
> > > > > _________________________________________________________________
> > > > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
> http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> > > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > > LRO mailing list
> > > > > [email-masked]
> > > > > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > LRO mailing list
> > > > [email-masked]
> > > > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > LRO mailing list
> > > > [email-masked]
> > > > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > LRO mailing list
> > > [email-masked]
> > > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > LRO mailing list
> > > [email-masked]
> > > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
>
> [demime 0.98b removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of bulkhead.jpg]
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 13
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 22:04:41 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] Back pressure, etc. Long
From: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I think I see the problem here.  Kirk is equating high velocity with high
back pressure.  It is true that to create a high velocity in the exhaust
you need a high pressure differential but you get this by opening the
exhaust valve well before BDC.  This is called the "blow down phase" or
just blown down  any back pressure in the exhaust will slow the pressure
drop in the cylinder and will end up at the crank shaft as torque.  In
the power band 70% of the exhaust gas should leave the cylinder during
blow down.  once the exhaust cycle starts any back pressure in the
exhaust  will still slow the cylinder pressure drop but since the piston
is now rising it will require power from the crank to rise against this
pressure.  If the exhaust is properly dimensioned then the velocity
created during blow down will continue to pull the gasses out of the
cylinder and if you are lucky pull the piston up the cylinder.  The
energy in the exhaust is proportional to the square of the velocity so
small changes add up quickly.   So high velocity and high back pressure
seem to go hand in hand they don't have to.

One other very important thing that a good exhaust system does is starts
the intake cycle before the piston starts back down.  There is more power
in getting this right then getting the exhaust to pull the piston up
during the exhaust cycle.  To understand how it does this you need some
pipe theory.  So here goes.  If a compression wave (positive pressure
wave) traveling in a pipe hits a closed end it will reflect a compression
wave,  but if it leaves a pipe (or just changes to a larger pipe as in
the primary to collector junction) it will reflect a rarefaction wave
(negative pressure wave).  The trick is to get the rarefaction to the
exhaust valve as the intake opens and keep it there during overlap.  

hope this helps
Chris

--__--__--

Message: 14
From: "Perrone Ford" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Back pressure, etc. Long
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 22:30:40 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Man,

	You're getting to deep now!  It took me a LONG time on the modeling
software to understand the theories of wave reflection.  And when I do my
engine work, I am going to send you the specs and let you model my exhaust.
This crap makes my head hurt!

-P

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf
> Of [email-masked]
> Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2001 1:05 AM
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: [lro] Back pressure, etc. Long
>
>
>
> I think I see the problem here.  Kirk is equating high velocity with high
> back pressure.  It is true that to create a high velocity in the exhaust
> you need a high pressure differential but you get this by opening the
> exhaust valve well before BDC.  This is called the "blow down phase" or
> just blown down  any back pressure in the exhaust will slow the pressure
> drop in the cylinder and will end up at the crank shaft as torque.  In
> the power band 70% of the exhaust gas should leave the cylinder during>

--__--__--

Message: 15
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 23:00:06 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] Back pressure, etc. Long
From: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

With Dynomation it is right in front of you.  The pressure/crank rotation
graphs show intake, cylinder and exhaust pressures of 720 deg of rotation
on the same graph.  Just look for the exhaust to drop below atmospheric. 
comes too soon, lengthen the pipe.  Not there long enough, change the
taper.   It is so easy now, I just bought software to do it for me.  When
I did the intake and exhaust for the fuel injection in the mid-80's I did
it by hand, 3 sheets of paper per single RPM.  I seem to remember 1500
1500 and 4000.  That WAS ENOUGH.   Got the basics of what I needed to
make major improvements,but way too labor intensive for a hobby.  

chris
On Wed, 8 Aug 2001 22:30:40 -0400 "Perrone Ford" <[email-masked]>
writes:
> 
> Man,
> 
>         You're getting to deep now!  It took me a LONG time on the 
> modeling
> software to understand the theories of wave reflection.  And when I 
> do my
> engine work, I am going to send you the specs and let you model my 
> exhaust.
> This crap makes my head hurt!

--__--__--

Message: 16
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 23:41:11 -0400
From: Winn Bearden <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] 200tdi fit?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

hey bill!
     A Tdi will bolt up but you have to ream out holes to metric sizes and
rearrange/omit a few studs. The Tdi block looks identical to  a 2.25
block.  By the way, since I bought that 110 with a 200 TDI a couple of
weeks ago, I have abandoned the 109 project.  If  Dempsey doesn't buy the
Peugoet setup for Booger, it'll be for sale.  2.5 Turbo diesel w/ less than
100k, motor mounts, adapter plate, new clutch, "freshened up" tranny, the
Parker kit even had the radiator hoses and throttle cable. Like your
Pontiac, enough Pugs were sold in the States to warrant discount parts
houses to be able to get stuff. (Got a starter for $50).
    But, like Russ said, gasoline  is cheap and 4 cyl. diesels are slow.
I've discovered that the Tdi isn't some mythical beast but a 2.5 liter
that's derived from the 2.25.  No matter how much you intercool and turbo
it, a 2.5 liter diesel is still a 2.5 liter diesel! Get out of the
Powerstroke and jump in the 110 and you'll think that you left the parking
brake on.  Top speed for the 110 w/ 200Tdi is listed as 84 mph,  but
there's not a hill around here long enough for me to hit that.

"William J. Rice" wrote:

> Hey folks,
> Been pondering what engine I'll put in Mrs. Merdle when the current
> engine (2.5l Pontiac) gives up the ghost.
> I've heard from an incredibly knowledgeable source that the 200tdi is a
> derivative of the 2.5 and will bolt right up to a Series tranny.
>

--
Winn Bearden          19XX SIIa/SIII/RR 100" Hybrid
P.O. Box 464          1967 NADA 109" SW (in pieces)
Americus, GA 31709    1996 4.0 SE

--__--__--

Message: 17
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Back pressure, etc. Long
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 21:53:25 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Chris,
    So what does this software cost now?  How does it compare to Performance
Trends?  I am about to fuel inject my 2.25, then head and exhaust...
possibly a custom intake in the future.  It would be a great help to model
the effects beforehand.  Besides, this way I could tinker to my hearts
delight working toward my goals without the cost moving toward infinity.
:-)

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 18
From: "Perrone Ford" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Back pressure, etc. Long
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 00:09:52 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Kirk,

	Unless you want to part with a couple grand, you'd better stay away from
Dynomation!  It's what the big boys use!  Chris, which F1 team was using
that software?

-P

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf
> Of Kirk Hillman
> Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 11:53 PM
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: [lro] Back pressure, etc. Long
>
>
>
> Chris,
>     So what does this software cost now?  How does it compare to
> Performance
> Trends?  I am about to fuel inject my 2.25, then head and exhaust...
> possibly a custom intake in the future.  It would be a great help to model
> the effects beforehand.  Besides, this way I could tinker to my hearts
> delight working toward my goals without the cost moving toward infinity.
> :-)
>
> Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 19
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Back pressure, etc. Long
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 22:16:00 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Perrone,
    The only software that I could find under Dynomation was only $599.
Mind you, that is far more than I am willing to spend right now, but it is
not the $20,000 USD that I was told it would cost by the local performance
shop.

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 20
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 23:23:52 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: aaron <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Locking differential. What options?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

What options are there for locking diffs in a standard rover axle? Do 
the part numbers correspond to offers in j**p catalogs, or are they 
unique to rovers? I assume the rest of the drive train needs to be 
upgraded also. (drive shafts)

Also I'm looking for a couple of parts, specifically the rear metal 
mounts that attach to the chassis for the transmission. I am 
restoring an 88 I purchased with out a gearbox. The part numbers are 
272501 for the right and 272498 for the left. The suppliers do not 
stock these, so if you have a frame lying around with these mounts 
please contact me.

Thanks,
Aaron
[email-masked]
69 88 in a thousand pieces

--__--__--

Message: 21
To: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 00:17:06 -0600
Subject: Re: [lro] 200tdi fit?
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Winn!
You got a 110?!  From where?  How'd you get that thing into the country?
You're abandoning the 109?  Selling the whole truck, or just the engine?
Matt Turowski's looking for an engine w/ some more oomph to stick in the
Marlin Perkins Mobile--maybe he'd be interested in buying your Peugeot
setup.

You don't think the 200tdi's much more powerful than what I've got now? 
Charlie Haigh loves his 300tdi's a lot and folks who've ridden w/ him in
his 110 say it has loads of power.   Charlie says the 200 tdi only has
about 15 hp less than the 300, and I was thinking that might not be a bad
way to go--make the rover all rover again, give me a diesel (great for
fording and good mileage).  And diesels are just cool.  I don't want the
hassle of sticking a V8  in (bulkhead mods and radiator moves).  Maybe I
should just get a Rob Davis 3.0l version of my engine--it wouldn't cost
any more than a 200tdi, it'd be new, and it would sure be easier to stick
in there.

How's life in GA?

bill
On Wed, 08 Aug 2001 23:41:11 -0400 Winn Bearden <[email-masked]>
writes:
> 
> hey bill!
>      A Tdi will bolt up but you have to ream out holes to metric 
> sizes and
> rearrange/omit a few studs. The Tdi block looks identical to  a 
> 2.25
> block.  By the way, since I bought that 110 with a 200 TDI a couple 
> of
> weeks ago, I have abandoned the 109 project.  If  Dempsey doesn't 
> buy the
> Peugoet setup for Booger, it'll be for sale.  2.5 Turbo diesel w/ 
> less than
> 100k, motor mounts, adapter plate, new clutch, "freshened up" 
> tranny, the
> Parker kit even had the radiator hoses and throttle cable. Like 
> your
> Pontiac, enough Pugs were sold in the States to warrant discount 
> parts
> houses to be able to get stuff. (Got a starter for $50).
>     But, like Russ said, gasoline  is cheap and 4 cyl. diesels are 
> slow.
> I've discovered that the Tdi isn't some mythical beast but a 2.5 
> liter
> that's derived from the 2.25.  No matter how much you intercool and 
> turbo
> it, a 2.5 liter diesel is still a 2.5 liter diesel! Get out of the
> Powerstroke and jump in the 110 and you'll think that you left the 
> parking
> brake on.  Top speed for the 110 w/ 200Tdi is listed as 84 mph,  
> but
> there's not a hill around here long enough for me to hit that.
> 
> "William J. Rice" wrote:
> 
> > Hey folks,
> > Been pondering what engine I'll put in Mrs. Merdle when the 
> current
> > engine (2.5l Pontiac) gives up the ghost.
> > I've heard from an incredibly knowledgeable source that the 200tdi 
> is a
> > derivative of the 2.5 and will bolt right up to a Series tranny.
> >
> 
> --
> Winn Bearden          19XX SIIa/SIII/RR 100" Hybrid
> P.O. Box 464          1967 NADA 109" SW (in pieces)
> Americus, GA 31709    1996 4.0 SE
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

_______________________________________________
* Team.Net hosted courtesy of Amaranth Networks, Inc. http://Amaranth.com/ *
* Powered by SUN(r). The network is the computer.(tm) *
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

End of LRO Digest