Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #37 - 23 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 03:11:31 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Timing question (My running problem -update) (Hope Peter)
   2. RE: Timing question (My running problem -update) (Perrone Ford)
   3. Re: those thingys for posers (Frank Elson)
   4. LR Def CSW 110-98 (Jan Engborg)
   5. Re: LR Def CSW 110-98 (John Cranfield)
   6. Re: Unleaded ([email-masked])
   7. gps (Robert McCullough)
   8. Re: those thingys for posers (TeriAnn Wakeman)
   9. Re: Timing question (My running problem -update) ([email-masked])
  10. erratic idle (Jeff Bieler)
  11. Re: erratic idle (Kirk Hillman)
  12. Re: erratic idle (Jeff Bieler)
  13. Re: Timing question (My running problem -update) (Hope Peter)
  14. Perrone's recommendation (Kirk Hillman)
  15. Re: Timing question (My running problem -update) (Kirk Hillman)
  16. Help learning to Disco  !!!!! ([email-masked])
  17. Re: Timing question (My running problem -update) (Hope Peter)
  18. Re: Timing question (My running problem -update) (Kirk Hillman)
  19. Re: Timing question (My running problem -update) (Kirk Hillman)
  20. Re: Perrone's recommendation (David Scheidt)
  21. On the road tool kits (Nick Danger)
  22. Re: GPS unit suggestions (Nick Danger)
  23. Re: On the road tool kits (David Scheidt)

--__--__--

Message: 1
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Timing question (My running problem -update)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 21:05:21 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Ok, not back to your problem!  IF you can't get an idle unless you ignite
> the mixture 18-20 degrees advanced, you have a spark problem!  Basically
it
> sounds as if you are having to spark the mixture WAY early to get full
> combustion.  This could come from a few things, but the most likely is
> incorrect spark gap or insufficient power from the coil.  Narrow up your
> spark gap to .030

Interesting.  What about changing plug type?  I have a pertronix ignition
and pertronix coil.

> If this doesn't fix the problem take a look at your fuel.  What octane are
> you using?  Lower octane fuels burn easier so they may improve performance
> in your situation.

Dang, I thought when you wnet up in compression you had to go up in
octane...so I have been running the highest octane they offer.

> Also, you may be running too rich.  Running really rich
> tends to cause the spark to have to burn too much gas, this slowing down
the
> flame in the cylinder.  How do your plugs look?  How does the exhaust
smell?
> Are you noting the smell of unburned fuel at the tailpipe?  Are you sure
you
> are taking in as much air as that new head needs?  Choking it of air may
> force rich running.

Yes at low speeds and off road the thing is definately running
rich...tailpipe is black soot.  Same with all the plugs.
It's funny that the hi speed surging/hesitation that seems like a lack of
fuel could actually be a too much fuel problem.

ACR told me that the webber may be set with to rich a jet and try leanning
it out some.  They also say that their performance intake and carb will fit
on lhd vehicles with the power brakes so now rethinking that whole issue.

Thnks for the help P.  Glad to have some more stuff to look at in the AM.
Will let ya'll know.
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 2
From: "Perrone Ford" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Timing question (My running problem -update)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 03:34:02 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Peter,

	A correction of a few fallacies:

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf
> Of Hope Peter

> > sounds as if you are having to spark the mixture WAY early to get full
> > combustion.  This could come from a few things, but the most likely is
> > incorrect spark gap or insufficient power from the coil.  Narrow up your
> > spark gap to .030
>
> Interesting.  What about changing plug type?  I have a pertronix ignition
> and pertronix coil.

The Pertronix should be sparking plenty hot, but a couple things to remembr.
The wider the gap, the more fuel you can burn AS LONG AS the coil can still
provide the power to bridge the spark gap.  So in this case, we know the
coil is strong, so try opening UP the gap to .040, .045, and .050 and
testing the spark.  If the coil can still provide good spark, then you will
in effect burn more of the fuel in the cylinder.  This will give you a lot
more power per stroke and may smooth out the running some.  Open up the
spark gap in small increments until you start missing, which means the spark
is no longer jumping the gap consistently.

> > If this doesn't fix the problem take a look at your fuel.  What
> octane are
> > you using?  Lower octane fuels burn easier so they may improve
> performance
> > in your situation.
>
> Dang, I thought when you wnet up in compression you had to go up in
> octane...so I have been running the highest octane they offer.

This is USUALLY the case, but a lot depends on the combustion chamber
design.  Well designed heads can run on 87 octane at 10.5:1.  The ONLY time
you need to increase octane rating is if your engine starts pinging.  I'd
drop back to 87 octane and retard the timing 5-10 degrees.  Then try it out.
Advance it until you get to detonation under load, then back it off 3
degrees.  You may find that you can get 10 degrees of advance on 87 octane
with an .040 gap.  This will make more power than you probably ever have in
that rover.  Oh, and buy new plugs, preferably 3-4 sets.  You'll want to
keep an eye on them every couple of days to see if you are running rich/lean
or detonating.

> Yes at low speeds and off road the thing is definitely running
> rich...tailpipe is black soot.  Same with all the plugs.
> It's funny that the hi speed surging/hesitation that seems like a lack of
> fuel could actually be a too much fuel problem.

Yes, you are throwing half burned fuel down the exhaust!  And that surging
you are feeling is actually incomplete combustion causing power differences
between cylinders.

> ACR told me that the webber may be set with to rich a jet and try leanning
> it out some.  They also say that their performance intake and
> carb will fit
> on lhd vehicles with the power brakes so now rethinking that whole issue.

Those folk sound like they know their business.  They probably know that the
new heads and cam will suck in more mixture than your ignition can cope
with.  This is why high performance engines move to VERY hot ignitions when
they increase cam and induction.

> Thnks for the help P.  Glad to have some more stuff to look at in the AM.
> Will let ya'll know.

Hope things go well for you.  God knows I need to be able to help SOMEBODY
get a car running!

-P

Pray for me as I have a big day tomorrow (today) bleeding ABS brakes and
power steering.

--__--__--

Message: 3
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] those thingys for posers
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 09:54:14 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

TeriAnn writes>>>> Frank it sounds like you were the first through that
green lane since the
> Saxon invaders were routing the last of the British Roman defenders.<<<

I wish. Two problems were that the slasher (mounted on back of a tractor)
had been through, thereby giving us a sense of false security (ie, its now
passable)
second, a Daishitsu Saxon (kit car based on Daihatsu mechanicals) was
leading the way and he was narrower than I was!

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

--__--__--

Message: 4
From: "Jan Engborg" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 11:59:10 +0200
Subject: [lro] LR Def CSW 110-98
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi,
I have this question concerning LR Def CSW 110-98:

Which parts are aluminium ... and which are not?

Rgds

Jan Engborg
LR Def 110 CSW, -98
Rover P6 3500, -74

--__--__--

Message: 5
Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 09:44:28 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] LR Def CSW 110-98
Reply-To: [email-masked]

The hood, fenders, roof, doors, floors etc are all aluminium. The
chassis, bulkhead(firewall), front bumper and drive train are steel. The
V8 engine is mostly aluminium too.
John and Muddy

Jan Engborg wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> I have this question concerning LR Def CSW 110-98:
> 
> Which parts are aluminium ... and which are not?
> 
> Rgds
> 
> Jan Engborg
> LR Def 110 CSW, -98
> Rover P6 3500, -74
> 
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 6
To: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 09:46:44 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] Unleaded
From: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I installed a used head in 1983, no hardened seats.  Head hasn't been off
since.  valve  clearances have been steady for over 15 years now.  when I
work it hard I go next door to the  bike speed shop and buy 5 gal. of VP
Red racing fuel.  I don't care about the 105 Octane but that 4.23 grams/
gal. of lead seems to do the trick.  It has enough lead to give lasting
protection.  Only problem is that last I did it VP was $37, ouch.  The PO
of my new house left several bottles of "real lead" so the days of VP are
temporally gone.  

Oh and its is now illegal to introduce lead into a road licensed vehicle.

Chris hall

--__--__--

Message: 7
From: "Robert McCullough" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 11:04:10 -0400
Subject: [lro] gps
Reply-To: [email-masked]

as for the gps selection,
i think perhaps you may have to look at it like buying a land rover or
computer. your first purchase is the basic "how much can i get for my money"
and "its all that i really need". as time goes by you desire a little more
from the unit to meet your needs( ser.2 with a 2.25 to aftermarket engine or
200 pentium to a pentium 700). my first gps was a garmin gps 2 plus.
recently i bought the etrex vista. in addition to what the basic etrex
offers, it has the extra features of a built in basemap, 24 mb of memory for
downloading maps, gives you the elevation, barometric pressure, ascent and
decent rate with a graph, and it lights up and its the same size and weight.

--__--__--

Message: 8
Subject: Re: [lro] those thingys for posers
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 01 07:19:04 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>second, a Daishitsu Saxon (kit car based on Daihatsu mechanicals) was
>leading the way and he was narrower than I was!

Sounds like the time I followed a 107 pickup across the snow in my 109 
RV. "But the snow supported the 107 pickup OK.  How was I to know it was 
this deep and so soft under the crust?"

Coastal Californians are not natural snow drivers.  Of course the first 
thing I thought of after the Rover broke through the crust is that the 
107 weighed about half what my 109 weighs.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

--__--__--

Message: 9
From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 12:39:51 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] Timing question (My running problem -update)
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I'm curious in all of this as to how we are getting the timing verification, 
to whit:
The timing light used has a variable delay, and is adjustable. Is it possible 
to utilize, borrow a less variable tool?  Perhaps a simple nonadjustable 
light will provide a different reading, but it's important to check first, 
before tearing everything apart.

--__--__--

Message: 10
Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 09:45:03 -0700
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] erratic idle
Reply-To: [email-masked]

my inexperience with carburetors is become readily apparent.

My IIA still has the Solex carb.  After spending much time adjusting the
idle, then mixture, and then idle screw again, I drove off with what feels
like a good setting.  Acceleration and power seem good.  The idle is
smooth.  Oil pressure hovers around 40PSI and moves up to about 60PSI while
driving.

The problem is that when I come to a stop, I get a mixed bag of results.
Sometimes, the idle will be up a little bit and the oil pressure will stay
just below 60PSI.  If I blip the throttle, it will drop down to about where
I thought I set it.  Other times, the idle will drop much lower then I set
it, oil pressure will fall to below 30PSI and it will almost threaten to
stall.  In addition, when I turn the ignition off, the engine will
sometimes continue to run which I thought was a sign of the idle being too
high.

Any thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  It's nice to be
back on the learning curve.  I can only go up from here.

Jeff

--__--__--

Message: 11
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] erratic idle
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 10:52:59 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Jeff,
    I certainly am not an expert.  In fact I know very little, but I do know
that when my linkage wasn't adjusted and tight the carb would not always
return to the same position.  This was the Zenith carb, but the idea applies
to all carbs.  I no longer have that problem with my Weber because it has a
better spring built into the throttle arm.  That reminds me, do you have all
the springs in proper working order on your linkage?  Mine may be a little
odd but I have a total of three springs on my linkage alone and these are
from the factory as far as I know.

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 12
Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 10:11:03 -0700
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] erratic idle
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Thanks Kirk.

I'm leaning back towards the linkage as the problem.  I was/am a bit thrown by
the fact that it will vary both higher and lower then the idle I thought I had
set.

I'll got stare at the Green Bible and the carb so more to see if it all looks
the same.

Jeff

Kirk Hillman wrote:

> Jeff,
>     I certainly am not an expert.  In fact I know very little, but I do know
> that when my linkage wasn't adjusted and tight the carb would not always
> return to the same position.  This was the Zenith carb, but the idea applies
> to all carbs.  I no longer have that problem with my Weber because it has a
> better spring built into the throttle arm.  That reminds me, do you have all
> the springs in proper working order on your linkage?  Mine may be a little
> odd but I have a total of three springs on my linkage alone and these are
> from the factory as far as I know.
>
> Kirk
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 13
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Timing question (My running problem -update)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 07:34:47 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Yes I agree that I need to double check the validity of my light.  But
according to my timing light my GMC and Jeep are spot on.  And I definately
am having some problems in how the Rover is running.
I am going to try and find out if one of the locals has a light so I can
verify.
Pete

>
> I'm curious in all of this as to how we are getting the timing
verification,
> to whit:
> The timing light used has a variable delay, and is adjustable. Is it
possible
> to utilize, borrow a less variable tool?  Perhaps a simple nonadjustable
> light will provide a different reading, but it's important to check first,
> before tearing everything apart.
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 14
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 11:29:11 -0600
Subject: [lro] Perrone's recommendation
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Since I have the same carb as Peter I am interested in Perrone's advice
regarding his situation.  As such I decided I would do a compression test
(not a leak down) to start.  What I saw was most disturbing.  125,75,75,85.
How is this possible?  I am getting more power from the engine than I ever
have and more torque too... and it's running extremely rich.  So how could
my motor be in such poor shape.  My only conclusion at the moment is that I
somehow screwed up the compression test.  Maybe the tester is bad?  What is
the procedure for testing compression properly?  Since I will be doing a
leak down test as soon as I get a hold of a tester, what is the procedure
for that?
    On carbs, I have a graph for correction factors with relation to jets.
Is this graph applicable to all carbs or do they react differently?  (This
is assuming the jets are numbered according to orifice size and not flow)
The reason I would like to know is that I am having trouble figuring out
what my jets should be.  If I could hear what other people are using
successfully at different altitudes then I might get an idea for where I
should start.  Am I being too hopeful?

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 15
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Timing question (My running problem -update)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 11:50:05 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Peter,
    Have you looked at your jets yet?

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 16
From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 14:06:01 EDT
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Help learning to Disco  !!!!!
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hello:

   I am about to step into unknown territory. Owning my series rover for 
about 15 yrs most of the time bieng my everyday driver weekend offroader and 
all around good friend I am about to buy a 1996 disco with 88,000 to share 
with my son. I am spending about 10k and have a good handle on what it takes 
to keep a rover satisifed  also open to anyone who knows of a good rover for 
sale at about this price range 

Dave Walls
1965 IIa 88  

--__--__--

Message: 17
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Timing question (My running problem -update)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 08:02:32 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Peter,
>     Have you looked at your jets yet?
> 
> Kirk

It's only 8am here.  Give me a chance to get a brew on will ya :-)

--__--__--

Message: 18
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Timing question (My running problem -update)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 12:03:27 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Heck Peter, when I was in the sunny state I was up before 6:00am every
day... except after I was a red lobster, then I just put more aloe on and
hung out in my room most of the time.

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 19
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Timing question (My running problem -update)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 12:17:53 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Peter,
    Did you know that the Weber idle jet is responsible for 80% of throttle
on the 32/36?  Most of the time an idle circuit is only that, an idle
circuit.  Apparently that is how they are supposed to be more efficient.  I
guess this means that I should look into my idle jets first rather than the
mains?

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 20
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 14:01:34 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Perrone's recommendation
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Sat, 4 Aug 2001, Kirk Hillman wrote:

:
:Since I have the same carb as Peter I am interested in Perrone's advice
:regarding his situation.  As such I decided I would do a compression test
:(not a leak down) to start.  What I saw was most disturbing.  125,75,75,85.
:How is this possible?  I am getting more power from the engine than I ever
:have and more torque too... and it's running extremely rich.  So how could
:my motor be in such poor shape.  My only conclusion at the moment is that I
:somehow screwed up the compression test.  Maybe the tester is bad?  What is
:the procedure for testing compression properly?  Since I will be doing a

Make sure the battery is charged.   Run the engine till warm, then shut off.
Remove all the aprk plugs, set the valve clearances.  Screw the tester into
first cylinder, crank the engine a couple times.  Record the reading.
Repeat.  If some of the cylinders  seem low, pour a tablespoon or so of
motor oil down the cylinder, and retake the reading.  If it goes up, expect
worn or stuck rings.  If it doesn't it's a vavle problem.

The absolute readings don't really mean a whole lot, unless you've got a
really good gauge.  More important is the consitancy between the cylinders.
If they're all close, and the engine is running fine, you're probably okay.

:leak down test as soon as I get a hold of a tester, what is the procedure
:for that?

It should come with instructions.

:    On carbs, I have a graph for correction factors with relation to jets.
:Is this graph applicable to all carbs or do they react differently?  (This
:is assuming the jets are numbered according to orifice size and not flow)

The Weber jets are numbered by size, but I think they're corrected for flow.

-- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

--__--__--

Message: 21
From: Nick Danger <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 19:53:05 -0400
Subject: [lro] On the road tool kits
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I know this has been asked before but I cant find it on the new archives 
(mailman still needs a 'search' function - argh!) and so Im asking it again.

Friday I leave for Vermont from CT. First trip over an hour or so thats 
pretty far from home. So WHAT should I pack for tools/spares for the trip? I 
have my jack/spare tire, and a set including rotor, cap, and points, and a 
few spare blubs (I think only brakes, but I'd have to check). Any suggestions 
on tools or other 'indespendible spares' to bring along? What about tools? Im 
assuming there are a few stock sizes not to be without (11mm and 13mm 
wrenches / sockets?) so I dont need to pack a complete spare of the tool 
chest.

Thanks everyone!

-Nick

--__--__--

Message: 22
From: Nick Danger <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] GPS unit suggestions
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 19:57:11 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

A few weeks back I got a Garmin ETrek Legend (the funky clear blue one) and I 
love it! It has a base map with most of the state roads and highways on it, 
the screen is clear, and I average about 15-35 feet accuracy in the truck 
driving (I get better walking around outside) I use it as my speedo since my 
speedo now only reads '0'. :-) It was pricer then the Emap but I am very 
happy with it.

-Nick

On Saturday 04 August 2001 00:44, you wrote:
> Simon, I picked up the EMap and am very happy wwith it.  The software from
> Garmin is pretty good, don't have their topo maps.  I am using Delorme topo
> maps and its working great.
>
> Went up to play in the Kahukus last weekend and the image on the Delorme
> map was right on the money for what I was seeing on the ground.
> For road driving the maps in the emap are very good.
> With the Garmin software you can upload map details from the laptop.  I am
> thinking of getting the Garmin topomaps so I can load the topos directly.
> The emap also gives your coordinates using the military grid reference
> system and this is great when using my paper maps on base.
> Pete
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Matt Peckham" <[email-masked]>
> To: <[email-masked]>
> Sent: Friday, August 03, 2001 07:49
> Subject: RE: [lro] GPS unit suggestions and test
>
>
>
> Kraft Mac 'n' Cheese: Garmin emap (from Walmart)
> Sirloin: Magellan 330X or Garmin eTrex Legend
> Perrier Jouit: Garmin GPS 76
>
> $170, $250, and $350, respectively (latest I checked.)
>
> I have the Mac 'n' cheese, and it's yummy.
>
> Matt
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Simon J. Harding [mailto:[email-masked]]
> Sent: Friday, August 03, 2001 1:18 PM
> To: [email-masked]'
> Subject: [lro] GPS unit suggestions and test
>
>
>
> I have a little extra coin and was thinking (pending spousal approval) of
> blowing some of it on a GPS unit.  I'd appreciate suggestions for a
> straightforward reliable unit as a starter.  I recall mention of the bottom
> of the line magellan as being too bottom of the line but beyond that I have
> not paid much attention.... I'm leaving for SE Oregon for about 5 - 6 days
> soon and would like to have one to play with and learn about on that trip.
> I don't really have an idea of what the bells and whistles available in a
> GPS unit are, but prefer simpler to lots of fancy options.
>
> Also, I'd like someone in real time to let me know if this post comes with
> a long string of gunk at the end, or if its clean.  Bob Bernard is in
> Digest mode and will be doing the same from there.  I tried unsubbing and
> resubbing in the faint hope of fixing it.  Its not happening with my mail
> offlist.  If there is junk at the end of my posts, I'll keep working on
> fixing it and won't post until I believe its fixed.
>
> Simon
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 23:02:21 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] On the road tool kits
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Sat, 4 Aug 2001, Nick Danger wrote:

:
:I know this has been asked before but I cant find it on the new archives
:(mailman still needs a 'search' function - argh!) and so Im asking it again.
:
:Friday I leave for Vermont from CT. First trip over an hour or so thats
:pretty far from home. So WHAT should I pack for tools/spares for the trip? I
:have my jack/spare tire, and a set including rotor, cap, and points, and a
:few spare blubs (I think only brakes, but I'd have to check). Any suggestions
:on tools or other 'indespendible spares' to bring along? What about tools? Im
:assuming there are a few stock sizes not to be without (11mm and 13mm
:wrenches / sockets?) so I dont need to pack a complete spare of the tool
:chest.
:

My spares kit is more or less like this:

rebuild kits for wheel cylinders, or complete wheel cylinders if I havpped
to have em
rebuild kit for brake master
rebuild kit for clutch slave
rebuild kit for clutch master
fuel pump
points, rotor, condensor, dizzy cap, wires, spark plugs
hub seal and stub axle distance piece
wheel bearings (just because I have them, not because I think they are
likely to fail)
set of radiator hoses
water pump rebuild kit
oil filter
spare cylinder head (only on trips to Ottawa...)
random collection of nuts, bolts and washers
water
antifreeze
gear oil
motor oil
wd40
dialectric grease
red rubber brake grease
gasket goop
anit-seize
paper gasket material
a couple of hose clamps
bits of wire and ends for them

If you have an overdrive, carry the bits you need to yank it off!  Unless,
of course, you like being stuck.

My tools are something like this

the handcrank
four-way wheel brace
two sets of SAE combination wrenches from 1/4 to 11/16, one set to about 1"
one set of metric combination wrenches
brake line spanners
a couple of crescent wrenches
a couple pairs of vice grips
a couple pairs of pliers
assorted straight and phillips screwdrivers
1/4 inch drive socket set, SAE and metric
3/8 inch drive socket set, SAE and metric
1/2 inch drive socket set, SAE and metric
Socket for removing wheel bearing retaining nuts
socket for the castle nut at the back of the transfer case
small pipe wrench
butane soldering iron, and flux, solder
cheap multimeter
big hammer
rubber mallet
pry bar
shovel
axe
pick axe
high lift jack
jackstand or two
couple of C-clamps
flashlights
standard recovery equipment (two strap or two, chains, shackels, snatch
block)
tire pressure gague.  (I used to carry a hand pump, but it died)

This is excessive.  I admit that.  My bare bones kti would be a set of SAE
combi wenches, a 3/8 in socket set, some pliers, screwdrivers, and a vice
grips (basically the 50 buck set of tools from Craftsmen, or the like), some
electical stuff (crimpers, some ends, bits of wire, tape, and an el cheapo
meter.  )
For parts, rebuild kits for all the hydraulics, ignitions bits, fluids, and
a set of axles.

-- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

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