Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #30 - 40 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 03:38:21 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Mechanical port injection (was: MY problems :-) (Hope Peter)
   2. Re: How to put on a soft top? (Hope Peter)
   3. Re: Wrench Terminology (RON WARD)
   4. RE: How to put on a soft top? (Brad Crittenden)
   5. Injection information Bosch CIS (Easton Trevor A)
   6. Oil Flow (Sergi, Michael)
   7. RE: Not sure what I do'ed. (Matt Peckham)
   8. Not sure what I PTO'ed. (Matt Peckham)
   9. Re: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #172 ([email-masked])
  10. Re: Mechanical port injection (was: MY problems :-) (Kirk Hillman)
  11. Land Rover toolkit (Faure, Marin)
  12. RE: Not sure what I PTO'ed. (Easton Trevor A)
  13. Re: Help, I'm Stuck! (Faure, Marin)
  14. Re: How to put on a soft top? (Michael Thompson)
  15. Re: Engine Speeds (Faure, Marin)
  16. RE: Not sure what I PTO'ed. (Matt Peckham)
  17. Re: How to put on a soft top? (Hope Peter)
  18. Softtop tie downs (Hope Peter)
  19. Re: Peter's running problem (Frank Elson)
  20. Re: Mechanical port injection (was: MY problems :-) (Frank Elson)
  21. Re: Not sure what I PTO'ed. (Kirk Hillman)
  22. RE: Not sure what I PTO'ed. (Matt Peckham)
  23. RE: Not sure what I PTO'ed. (Easton Trevor A)
  24. RE: Not sure what I PTO'ed. (Easton Trevor A)
  25. Odd mess in air filter (Kirk Hillman)
  26. Re: Odd mess in air filter (Perrone Ford)
  27. Speed (William L Leacock)
  28. Fw: [lro] Terminology (Peter Thomson)
  29. carby tuning (longish - 30-40 some lines) (Simon J. Harding)
  30. Re: carby tuning (longish - 30-40 some lines) (Bruce D. Fowler)
  31. Re: How to put on a soft top? Thanks Everyone! (Nick Danger)
  32. Re: How to put on a soft top? (Nick Danger)
  33. crimp gap? (Carl Kinkade)
  34. 2001 Events (M. Tompkins)
  35. Re: carby tuning (longish - 30-40 some lines) (Alex Maiolo)
  36. Some photos of a OVLR expedition (Keith Tanner)
  37. now I've gone and done it... (Jeff Bieler)
  38. Re: Some photos of a OVLR expedition (Jean-Leon Morin)
  39. De-coking a 2.25 Petrol ([email-masked])
  40. Re: Some photos of a OVLR expedition (Hope Peter)

--__--__--

Message: 1
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Mechanical port injection (was: MY problems :-)
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 21:38:40 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> the combustion cycle.  In reality that isn't necessary.  The other type is
> called CIS by Bosch (Constant Injection System).  The injectors are always
> running and when the particular intake valve opens the air fuel mixture is
> right there

Kirk, some real great info.  It just so happens I have a couple of spare
intakes laying about.
Sounds pretty straight forward.  What controls the injector pump?  A duel
belt pulley on the crank and a 2:1 ratio pulley on the pump?  Does the
throttle body mechanically connect to the injector pump to control the fuel
mixture?

--__--__--

Message: 2
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] How to put on a soft top?
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 21:40:17 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Nick I saw a bunch of replies.  If you still need a photos of the tie downs
let me know and I will post some Monday after work.
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 08:17:55 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Wrench Terminology
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Speaking of Land Rover genuine tool kits, the NAS D110 I owned very shortly had a complete set of tools including a long adjustable channel-lock pliers that was so poorly made that it would not clamp around anything, it would just slip closed causing the immediate mangling of the fingers

Ron.

>>> [email-masked] 07/27/01 11:13PM >>>
Note: The Mailman has replaced Majordomo
	for list operations go to http://koan.team.net/mailman/index 
	- Cheers, Bill
On Fri, 27 Jul 2001, Rick Grant wrote:

:Note: The Mailman has replaced Majordomo
:	for list operations go to http://koan.team.net/mailman/index 
:	- Cheers, Bill
:
:I came across a term for adjustable wrench tonight on a Junkyard Wars web
:site that I had never seen before.
:
:"shifting spanner"
:
:I've seen crescent wrench of course, and clyde spanner, but never shifting
:spanner.  Any other terms out there for this indispensable knuckle gasher?
:

I've heard them called King Dicks, which is the brand that some LBCs had in
their tool kit.  I think Land-Rovers are in that set.  I've never seen a
complete toolkit, but the picture in the parts catalogue looks like the King
Dicks I've seen out of sunbeams.  (They're utter crap, though, so it's not a
big loss.)
-- 
[email-masked] 
Bipedalism is only a fad.

_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked] 
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 4
From: "Brad Crittenden" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] How to put on a soft top?
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 08:29:34 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Nick:

I recently went through this exercise.  It's hard to believe these tops come
with no pictures and no instructions.  Since I'd never seen up-close a
Series truck with a soft top I was at a complete loss.

In order to help you and to solicit response to places I may have been
mistaken, I have taken photos of my installation.  You can find them at
http://spoetzl.net/SoftTop.  Please take a look and let me know if you have
questions.  If Peter, David, and others who responded to Nick could look at
the pictures and offer critique that would be great too.

Good luck with the top.  I love mine.

--Brad

--__--__--

Message: 5
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 08:36:53 -0400
Subject: [lro] Injection information Bosch CIS
Reply-To: [email-masked]

A fairly informative page can be found at http://www.millerfi.com/

--__--__--

Message: 6
From: "Sergi, Michael" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 08:52:32 -0400
Subject: [lro] Oil Flow
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Thanks Alan.  I pulled the external oil gallery pipe and the lower banjo
bolt was filled with silicone.  The last owner I guess did not have the
copper sealing washers on hand.  Now I can only speculate how long the
engine ran like that and what type of damage was done.

Mike

--__--__--

Message: 7
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: [lro] Not sure what I do'ed.
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 09:22:43 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

not yet.  been vacationing... in Maine... right near the scene of the
crime...  Will get under there and tinker some more this week.

Matt

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Hall [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2001 10:30 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Not sure what I do'ed.

Note: The Mailman has replaced Majordomo
	for list operations go to http://koan.team.net/mailman/index
	- Cheers, Bill
So Matt, ever figure out the problem?
-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 8
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 09:31:31 -0400
Subject: [lro] Not sure what I PTO'ed.
Reply-To: [email-masked]

PTO setup.		

Just picked up a PTO unit on ebay.  Now all I need is to fashion a lever,
install, and figure out a prop shaft setup to drive a front winch.  any of
you old pros got any manuals of this setup?  

Matt

--__--__--

Message: 9
From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 23:44:58 -0400
To: [email-masked]
Cc: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Re: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #172
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Larry,

I am finally reading some old LRO digests.  Below is a posting of yours re: pawn shop / flea market tools.

Would love to know more about that, if wanted to share the info.

Also, I got some tool wipes in a can like baby butt wipes at K-Mart as well as wipes with handcleaner on them and silcon based gun wipes.

Cheers,
Ray

[email-masked] wrote:
> LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Tuesday, January 9 2001 Volume 01 : Number 172

------------------------------ 

Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 16:37:36 -0500 
From: Larry Smith <[email-masked]> 
Subject: Re: LRO: Oily Tools - First premium tool purchase 

Have been lurking on this subject. 

Subject: Re: LRO: Oily Tools - First premium tool purchase

Have been lurking on this subject.

I have a couple of pawn shops where I have made friends with the
owner/operator.  They keep an eye out for Snap On stuff for me.  They
call once in a while with "I've got some junk for you".  Most of the
"junk" is still good quality.  I usually buy it all, even if I don't
need it to keep the good will going.

My best source (other than the account I have with the Snap On guy
himself), is the local flea market.  Two guys always seem to have the
usual junk tools, Craftsman stuff, etc.  But they also have SK
Professional (not the parts store stuff), MAC, Matco and Snap On in the back.  Prices for this stuff is about half of catalog.  Its clean and operational.  No broken stuff.  The extras I get from the pawn shops are readily taken in on trade for the items I "really" need.

Have only broken one Snap On (or rather Blue Point) combo wrench and
that was taking off a Series overdrive.  Readily replaced with no
questions, even though my Snap On guy knows I buy mostly from the flea
market.  I do buy enough from him to keep the account open and him
happy.  The only item refused for return was an older combo wrench where the chrome was flaking off.  Wasn't bought from him, so I understand his not wanting to replace it.  I ended up buying an new wrench from him anyway.

Finally.  Snap On makes shop wipes, similar to baby wipes, for cleaning hands, etc.  One thing I noticed (and made some extra sales for my Snap On guy) was that they prevent rust.  Why hand wipes need to prevent rust, I'll never know.  My tools are stored in an unheated garage, and I have had problems with rusting in the past, especially on "blackened" tools or those with a lot of surface wear.  I now clean the tools with the wipes before putting them away and haven't had a rusting problem on them for over a year.  Cost is about $12.00 for the can, but for me, well worth it.

Sorry for the rambling.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

--__--__--

Message: 10
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Mechanical port injection (was: MY problems :-)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 09:24:36 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Peter,
    I think you should ask Chris (christian147...) if you want more details.
He has already done it, with very strong results.  Never having done it
before I don't know the details yet.

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 11
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 08:56:25 -0700
Subject: [lro] Land Rover toolkit
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>>At 11:13 PM 7/27/01, [email-masked] wrote:
>>I've never seen a
>>complete toolkit, but the picture in the parts catalogue looks like the
King Dicks I've seen out of sunbeams.

I've still got the original tool kit that came with my SIII, complete with the 
little roll-up pouch it fits in.  None of the tools are of good quality, although 
there are a couple of spanners that come in very handy when working on 
the vehicle.  The single-ended spanner is the tool intended to be used to 
remove the drain plugs on the differentials, transfer case, and differential.  
The handle end of the spanner fits in the slot on the drain plug, and 
the crude, adjustable wrench (King Dick?) is used to grip the handle 
immediately below the plug.  One good yank on the adjustable wrench 
and the drain plug breaks free to where it can be backed out by hand.  But 
the wrenches, screwdriver, grease gun, etc. that came in the kit are very 
crudely made, although they seem to be quite strong.  There's even a little 
feeler gauge for the points and plugs.  The vehicle also came with a bicycle-
type tire pump, although inflating a tire with this thing would take the better 
part of a day.  But in 28 years, I've used all the tools that came with the 
vehicle at one time or another with success except the grease gun, which 
is not built strongly enough to apply sufficient pressure to actually inject 
grease into anything.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

--__--__--

Message: 12
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Not sure what I PTO'ed.
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 11:59:42 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

The PTO unit unit provides a connection between the gearbox output and a
drive flange. You can't install it and an overdrive (Unless its a bottom
PTO)
To drive a front winch mechanically you need a double belt drive to a frame
mounted shaft and universal joints that takes the drive forward beside the
engine.
OR do like I did and fit a shaft drive to a hydraulic pump mounted in the
centre cross member the use the oil to drive anything you want.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Matt Peckham [SMTP:[email-masked]]
> Sent:	Monday, July 30, 2001 9:32 AM
> To:	[email-masked]
> Subject:	[lro] Not sure what I PTO'ed.
> 
> 
> PTO setup.		
> 
> Just picked up a PTO unit on ebay.  Now all I need is to fashion a lever,
> install, and figure out a prop shaft setup to drive a front winch.  any of
> you old pros got any manuals of this setup?  
> 
> Matt
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 13
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 09:05:11 -0700
Subject: [lro] Re: Help, I'm Stuck!
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Message: 18
From: "Carl Kinkade" <[email-masked]>
To: "RRO" <[email-masked]>, "LRO" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2001 20:16:10 -0500
Subject: [lro] Help, I'm Stuck!
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>>The guy who
owned it before me had the dealership do all the services and the last
servicing called for the transmission filter to be changed, so I know 13,000
miles ago it was taken off, but they most cranked on it to get it this
tight.

Unless the transmission on the "new model" Range Rover is quite a bit 
different than the ZF unit used on the classic, there is no need to remove 
the transmission filler tube when changing the transmission filter.  I have 
done this job on our '91, and all that's needed is to drop the transmission 
pan to get at the sump filter.  On the classic, this entails removing, or at least 
moving, the frame crossmember that passes under the transmission, and loosening 
the exhaust pipes.  But I don't recall having to unfasten the filler tube.  But 
perhaps the configuration of the newer transmissions is different.  Or I'm misremembering 
what we did a few years ago.  Anyway, it may be that the filler tube has never been loosened 
on your vehicle, and so is jammed on/corroded on pretty tight.  I assume you have a copy 
of the shop manual.  This should indicate how the filler comes off, and if it is threaded backwards 
(I can't imagine why it would be).
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

--__--__--

Message: 14
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 20:08:20 -0400
Subject: Re: [lro] How to put on a soft top?
From: Michael Thompson <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Nick,
Here's a link to my pics.
http://home.rio.edu/miket/rover.htm
I was a newbie when I got my top. There are two things I would have done a
little different. I had to install the front loops and the loops at the rear
corners. The front hooks -you need to put them as far forward as possible.
The rear loops on mine could have gone further out to the corners. It all
works fine and looks good. And heed the warnings of shrinkage. It will
shrink if not tied down tight. Have fun with your new top. It was the best
money I spent on my Landie.
Cheers,
Mike Thompson

--__--__--

Message: 15
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 09:35:11 -0700
Subject: [lro] Re: Engine Speeds
Reply-To: [email-masked]

From: "Lance da Silva" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 22:49:58 +0200
Subject: [lro] Engine Speeds
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>After seeing some of the last few posts, I have been worrying that 
I am overevving my 2.25l petrol. I have no problem 
maintaining speeds of 62 (100km/h) and 68 (110km/h). Am I revving 
the motor to high?

I would highly recommend that you install a tachometer and a manifold 
pressure gauge (or the more common vacuum gauge) in your Land Rover. 
These two instruments together will tell you almost everything you need to 
know about how hard your engine is working at any given moment.  Plus 
the manifold pressure or vacuum gauge will tell you instantly if you're 
developing a valve problem.

Your road speeds are of course partly determined by the diameter of your tires, so 
not knowing what this measurement is, it's hard to say what your engine is 
doing, rev-wise.  I can tell you that on my SIII with 7.0 X 15 tires and overdrive 
engaged, 3,000 rpm gives me about 55 mph.  With the overdrive disengaged, 
the speed is about 45 mph at 3,000 rpm.  I never take the engine above 3,000 
rpm except when accelerating into traffic when I might run up to 3,500 for 
a moment.  My normal cruise rpm is 2,800.  

While Land Rover never published a true redline, or never-exceed, speed for 
the engine, you can use the x horsepower at y rpm figure as a rough 
guide (for any engine).  So the "redline" for the 2.25 can be considered to be 
4,250 rpm.  That's not very high, which is to be expected for the fairly crude 
"tractor" technology that's in the engine.  There are people who run their engines 
within a few hundred rpm of 4,250 in an effort to keep up with today's traffic, but 
this kind of operation will shorten the life of the engine's bearings and other 
moving components considerably.

If I maintained a road speed of 62 to 68 mph in my SIII with the tires it currently 
has on it, I suspect I would be running the engine at about 3,500 rpm all the time, 
and possibly faster.  This isn't acceptable, to me anyway.  I'm a lot more interested 
in getting the longest possible life out of the engine than I am in keeping up with 
everyone on the road.  Having everyone pass me takes a lot less of my 
time and money than overhauling an engine every few years.

If your tires are larger in diameter than mine (a likely possibility), then you 
won't be running your engine quite as fast as I would be at any given road speed.  
However, with the "taller" gearing of larger diameter tires, your engine will have to 
work harder than mine to maintain that speed. So even though your rpm may be 
a bit lower, the pressure and strain on the moving parts will be higher.

There are people on this list who have stated in the past that they run their Land Rovers 
very fast (70mph+ at 3,800-4,000 rpm) because they have to in order to maintain their 
schedule.  My own opinion on this is that maybe they ought to use a vehicle more suited 
for these speeds, and save the Land Rover for those times when speed is not a requirement.

I have owned my SIII for 28 years, and while I have stated in the past that I feel its design and 
construction are basically pretty crappy, the 2.25 engine, IF operated in the manner for which it 
was designed, has proven remarkably reliable and trouble-free.  Based on the experiences of other 
Series owners I have known, plus the experience of acquaintances in the UK who have operated Land 
Rovers for decades in commercial service, I suspect that had I driven mine at consistently higher rpms, 
I would not have experienced 28 years of almost trouble-free service from that crude collection of 
moving parts up front that Land Rover optimistically refers to as an "engine."
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

--__--__--

Message: 16
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: [lro] Not sure what I PTO'ed.
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 12:45:52 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

hey, now that's a real nifty idea!  I like that!

Matt

-----Original Message-----
From: Easton Trevor A [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 12:00 PM
To: [email-masked]'
Subject: RE: [lro] Not sure what I PTO'ed.

The PTO unit unit provides a connection between the gearbox output and a
drive flange. You can't install it and an overdrive (Unless its a bottom
PTO)
To drive a front winch mechanically you need a double belt drive to a frame
mounted shaft and universal joints that takes the drive forward beside the
engine.
OR do like I did and fit a shaft drive to a hydraulic pump mounted in the
centre cross member the use the oil to drive anything you want.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Matt Peckham [SMTP:[email-masked]]
> Sent:	Monday, July 30, 2001 9:32 AM
> To:	[email-masked]
> Subject:	[lro] Not sure what I PTO'ed.
> 
> 
> PTO setup.		
> 
> Just picked up a PTO unit on ebay.  Now all I need is to fashion a lever,
> install, and figure out a prop shaft setup to drive a front winch.  any of
> you old pros got any manuals of this setup?  
> 
> Matt
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 17
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] How to put on a soft top?
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 06:57:04 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> mistaken, I have taken photos of my installation.  You can find them at
> http://spoetzl.net/SoftTop.  Please take a look and let me know if you
have
> questions.  If Peter, David, and others who responded to Nick could look
at
> the pictures and offer critique that would be great too.
>
Brad, looks spot on.  Well, looks the way I do mine :-)
Peter

--__--__--

Message: 18
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 07:18:39 -1000
Subject: [lro] Softtop tie downs
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Brad,
Didn't read the text included with all of you photos.  The piece of rope
that you have left over ...go to photo number 9.
Just above the rear flap I can see a cloth tunnel formed in the softop.
This runs side to side.  The double ended rope feeds through this.  Each end
then feeds down through the gromet on each side and ties to the U sections
at the rear.
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 19
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Peter's running problem
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 15:45:32 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

If we accept the fact that breathing lots of lovely air is necessary in the
infernal combustion engine then anything (like an air filter) that gets in
the way is, of course, going to restrict output.
 However, the filter isn't there to restrict power, it's there to stop
nasties getting into the engine and breaking it.
 Hence, my vote for an air filter that works...

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

----- Original Message -----
From: Kirk Hillman <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2001 4:02 PM
Subject: Re: [lro] Peter's running problem

>
> Tim,
>     The points you mention regarding the writing of Vizard are good one's.
> I have to admit that I still don't feel comfortable about not using a
> filter, but to try it out I took off the air filter on my truck and tuned
it
> up.  Then I took it for a spin.  I can't say for sure but I thought it
felt
> much stronger on the road and I know the top speed was increased by at
least
> 10 km/h.  It might just have been one of those days when the Rover was
happy
> though, my tach started working, along with half my other gauges, my OD
> whine was gone, and there was no head shake or vibration at speed.  Go
> figure.
>     Then last night I took it out off road.  (We're having a family
reunion
> and one of the boys seemed pretty keen so he came with)  It's been a while
> since I drove the LR but I would swear there is more torque.  Also I was
> climbing hills in second that I previously did in first.  The engine would
> lug down and then just keep pulling.  The really amazing thing was that if
I
> gave it gas it would actually accelerate.
>     The end result?  Obviously more flow is making a tremendous
difference.
> I like the Weber in theory because it has a small bore which works better
at
> low throttle and then a larger one in tandem for higher throttle.  I
haven't
> had any complaints about the carb on extreme slopes either, not one
hiccup.
> I still think there is a better solution though.  Referring back to Tim's
> post with respect to Vizard's ideas, I would say we could do even
marginally
> better than independent runner systems.  Try mechanical port injection.  I
> still have the old intake manifold so Chris and I are going to try it.  We
> have been planning this for a year but never got around to it.  We were
> going to try different set-ups in series such as throttle body injection,
> but going directly to port injection is so easy and we already have the
> parts.  We are planning a camping trip in a couple of weeks, maybe we can
> finalize the details then. (we have to do it together because I have the
> manifold, he has the injection system and know-how   : )
>
>     Unfortunately I won't be doing enough driving around to find out what
> mileage I am getting now to compare with later, but that might change if I
> get her ready and registered for the camping trip.
>
> Kirk
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
>

--__--__--

Message: 20
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Mechanical port injection (was: MY problems :-)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 15:48:54 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I drove a Land Rover with Ford Escort mechanical injection fitted to the
2.25 engine many years ago.
 Why do it? 'Cos the owner was an injection specialist and 'cos he could.
 It went like sh*t off a shovel, as we say in the UK.
 Then he turbocharged it (again, 'cos he could) and it went even better.
 Lost touch with him after that so don't know anything about life expectancy
of the engine...

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

----- Original Message -----
From: Hope Peter <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2001 6:42 PM
Subject: [lro] Mechanical port injection (was: MY problems :-)

>
> > better than independent runner systems.  Try mechanical port injection.
I
> > still have the old intake manifold so Chris and I are going to try it.
We
> > have been planning this for a year but never got around to it.  We were
> > going to try different set-ups in series such as throttle body
injection,
> > but going directly to port injection is so easy and we already have the
> > parts.
>
> Aloha,
> trying to figure out how this would work.  I am imagining drilling and
> tapping each runner of the stock exhaust to take the injector.  Where the
> carb was would just be the air filter, snorkle attachment.  Or would you
> just saw the intake in half so each cylinder had a straight intake?
> How close to the head would the injector have to be installed?
> Would you scrapyard hunt for all the components for the mechanical
injectors
> or go new?
> How exactly is the mechanical injector timed?  Don t they work in the same
> manner as the dizzy..direct gear off the cam?  How in the world would you
do
> this?
> Pete
>
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
>

--__--__--

Message: 21
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Not sure what I PTO'ed.
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 12:55:16 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

If you use the PTO to drive a hydraulic system you can have a valve and a
winch at both ends!

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 22
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: [lro] Not sure what I PTO'ed.
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 15:08:53 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

can I have a hydraulic pump that sucks the money directly out of my bank
account too?  :)

Matt

-----Original Message-----
From: Kirk Hillman [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 2:55 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Not sure what I PTO'ed.

If you use the PTO to drive a hydraulic system you can have a valve and a
winch at both ends!

Kirk

_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 23
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Not sure what I PTO'ed.
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 15:14:05 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> If you use the PTO to drive a hydraulic system you can have a valve and a
> winch at both ends!
> 
> Kirk
> 
	[Easton Trevor A]  And a cylinder (lift jack) at each corner and a
manlift and a crane and a backhoe
and.............and...........and........... 

--__--__--

Message: 24
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Not sure what I PTO'ed.
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 15:17:44 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

They all do that

	Trevor 

> can I have a hydraulic pump that sucks the money directly out of my bank
> account too?  :)
> 
> Matt
> 
> 
> If you use the PTO to drive a hydraulic system you can have a valve and a
> winch at both ends!
> 
> Kirk
> 

--__--__--

Message: 25
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 13:08:43 -0600
Subject: [lro] Odd mess in air filter
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Listers,
    Now I have an unusual situation.  Being the one that recently took off
his air filter for a trial run I have noticed something.  The Weber 32/36
must be spraying a light mist of crud all over.  I noticed it on the inside
of the filter but thought it was oil being blown out of the valve cover
vent.  Once I disconnected the vent and removed the filter I thought the
mess would stop.  I cleaned the carb before re-installing it and it is all
dirt again.  My first thought was that somehow the air fuel mixture was
being blown out.  After a closer look I think there might be oil in there.
Anyone have any ideas?  On a possibly related note my vacuum gauge needle
'shakes'.  I was told it could have to do with inconsistent backpressure due
to a leaking exhaust but that should be fixed now.

Help

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 26
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 15:26:16 -0400
From: Perrone Ford <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Odd mess in air filter
Reply-To: [email-masked]

How's your piston rings and valve seats... sounds an awful lot like 
blowby to me... Would also explain why you are having vacuum issues.  
Can you get a leakdown test?  That'll tell you where the problem is..

-P

Kirk Hillman wrote:

> Listers,
>     Now I have an unusual situation.  Being the one that recently took off
> his air filter for a trial run I have noticed something.  The Weber 32/36
> must be spraying a light mist of crud all over.  I noticed it on the inside
> of the filter but thought it was oil being blown out of the valve cover
> vent.  Once I disconnected the vent and removed the filter I thought the
> mess would stop.  I cleaned the carb before re-installing it and it is all
> dirt again.  My first thought was that somehow the air fuel mixture was
> being blown out.  After a closer look I think there might be oil in there.
> Anyone have any ideas?  On a possibly related note my vacuum gauge needle
> 'shakes'.  I was told it could have to do with inconsistent backpressure due
> to a leaking exhaust but that should be fixed now.
> 
> Help
> 
> Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 27
To: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 17:59:34 -0400
From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Speed
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Teri Ann writes   if you are still running 750X16 tyres you are rev'ing
just over 3600 RPM 
at 62 MPH and just under 3800 RPM at 68 MPH.  My 2.25 engine always felt 
happiest on the highway around 3,400 RPM or around 55 MPH.  Even still I 
want through valves a little more often than I think I should have.

 Sorry Teri Ann your mathematics are screwed up, or you are running a
slipping clutch.  3600 at 62 equates to 17.2 mph per 1000 revs, whilst 68
at 3800 equates to 17.89 mph per 1000 revs. ( 55 at 3400 is 16.17 mph
/1000 revs) 
 The published figure by LR are 16.5 mph per 1000 revs in top gear for
7.50 x 16 tyres and 15 mph per thousand revs for 600 x 16 tyres. 
Therefore for a 109 66 mph is approx. 4000 rpm.  Tyre wear, pressure and
vehicle load all affect this figure since the rolling radius changes. 

Regards from Western New York State

  Bill Leacock.

--__--__--

Message: 28
From: "Peter Thomson" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Fw: [lro] Terminology
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 18:20:26 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Thomson <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2001 4:56 PM
Subject: Re: [lro] Terminology

> G'Day Sandy,
>                     A Cresent wrench is the make of the spanner '
adjustable
> takes too long to say so we just call it a shifter.  Hammer
(knockcrometer)A
> top mechanic never uses a hammer or chisel. We only use technical
ools.( It
> could be said that the only spanner that would fit was a shifter and I had
> to beat the shi# out of it with my 10lb knockcrometer. ) Peter
> From: A. P. "Sandy" Grice <[email-masked]>
> To: <[email-masked]>
> Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2001 12:35 AM
> Subject: [lro] Terminology
>
>
> > Note: The Mailman has replaced Majordomo
> > for list operations go to http://koan.team.net/mailman/index
> > - Cheers, Bill
> > Rick Grant <[email-masked]> wrote:
> >
> > >I came across a term for adjustable wrench tonight on a Junkyard Wars
web
> > >site that I had never seen before.
> >
> > >"shifting spanner"
> >
> > >I've seen crescent wrench of course, and clyde spanner, but never
> shifting
> > >spanner.  Any other terms out there for this indispensable knuckle
> gasher?
> >
> > Ummm...how about "hammer"....
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> >   *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is legendary-----*
> >   |                                                    |
> >   |              A. P. "Sandy" Grice                   |
> >   |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
> >   |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
> >   |  (757)423-4898  (757)622-7054  FAX (757)622-7056   |
> >   |                                                    |
> >   *----1972 Series III 88"----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
>

--__--__--

Message: 29
From: "Simon J. Harding" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 16:18:07 -0700
Subject: [lro] carby tuning (longish - 30-40 some lines)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I'm hoping the list can confirm for me I'm not missing something here, and just need to keep fiddling with this carb.  My zenith carb was bad, would not idle.  So Bruce Fowler kindly rebuilt a spare zenith I had.  He plugged the extraneous port, replaced the gaskets, and planed the two halves.  He did not mess with the accelerator pump because it looked fine.  He tested it on one of his rigs and it was fine.

I have a tired 2.25.  Timing is perfect, new tuneup parts and wires a week or two old. new coil.  I use the terms choke and cold start interchangeably.

I installed the rebuilt carb, set up the choke as it appeared on my old one, with the cable all the way in (cold start off), the butterfly near vertical, very small gap left in throat when choke fuilly on.  Idled just fine.  Nice and smooth.  Engine fully warmed up.  Cold start fully off.  Engine hesitates on coming off idle.  Mixture screw at two turns out.  Otherwise runs and accelerates fine.  I fiddled endlessly with the idle mixture and idle speed screws and finally, the only way I could get rid of this stumble was to set the cold start so that the butterfly is 1/4 closed when the cold start knob is all the way in (off).  With it set this way however, (1) acceleration seems to suffer, (my theory is, due to air starvation?), and (2) I can't get the idle low enough.  Stumble continued even with the mix screw way, way out.

I checked for air leaks at the carb itself and have none I can detect.  Sprayed WD 40 at the carb and there was no detectible change in the idle.  One possibility is the base plate.  I did not swap the old one off when I installed the new carb. because the inlet tube in the new base plate for the PCV system was a different size than the tubing I have on the PCV set up.  I have noticed a little semi liquid at the point where the base plate meets the intake manifold.  It was there with the old carby too, which also ran lean but did not stumble.   

There is no phenolic block in place between the carb base plate and the manifold.  Could this be the point where I have the air leak?  What's the purpose of the phenolic block?  I have wondered if its absence causes some change in the flow into the manifold?

vacuum at the distributor seems ok, could not easily suck air through that line from the carb. end.

	Any thoughts on what else could be causing the problem?  I'm not suspicious of the carb because Bruce ran it and it ran great for him.  I do wonder if the accelerator pump or a leak at the accelerator linkage could be part of the problem but do not believe so given Bruce's testing.

	I'm sorry this is so long, but I would appreciate any tips on things to look for.
Simon

--__--__--

Message: 30
From: "Bruce D. Fowler" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] carby tuning (longish - 30-40 some lines)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 20:32:47 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

-----Original Message-----
From: Simon J. Harding

:
:I'm hoping the list can confirm for me I'm not missing something here, and
just need to keep :fiddling with this carb.  My zenith carb was bad, would
not idle.  So Bruce Fowler kindly rebuilt a :spare zenith I had.  He plugged
the extraneous port, replaced the gaskets, and planed the two :halves.  He
did not mess with the accelerator pump because it looked fine.  He tested it
on one of :his rigs and it was fine.

Errr... I cleaned and checked the accelerator pump,  and it was fine.
I didn't replace the diaphragm gaskets for fear of tearing the diaphragm.
:
:I have a tired 2.25.  Timing is perfect, new tuneup parts and wires a week
or two old. new coil.  I :use the terms choke and cold start
interchangeably.
:
:I installed the rebuilt carb, set up the choke as it appeared on my old
one, with the cable all the :way in (cold start off), the butterfly near
vertical, very small gap left in throat when choke fuilly on.  :Idled just
fine.  Nice and smooth.  Engine fully warmed up.  Cold start fully off.
Engine hesitates :on coming off idle.  Mixture screw at two turns out.
Otherwise runs and accelerates fine.  I fiddled :endlessly with the idle
mixture and idle speed screws and finally, the only way I could get rid of
this :stumble was to set the cold start so that the butterfly is 1/4 closed
when the cold start knob is all :the way in (off).  With it set this way
however, (1) acceleration seems to suffer, (my theory is, due :to air
starvation?), and (2) I can't get the idle low enough.  Stumble continued
even with the mix :screw way, way out.
:
:I checked for air leaks at the carb itself and have none I can detect.
Sprayed WD 40 at the carb :and there was no detectible change in the idle.
One possibility is the base plate.  I did not swap :the old one off when I
installed the new carb. because the inlet tube in the new base plate for the
:PCV system was a different size than the tubing I have on the PCV set up.
I have noticed a little :semi liquid at the point where the base plate meets
the intake manifold.  It was there with the old :carby too, which also ran
lean but did not stumble.
:
:There is no phenolic block in place between the carb base plate and the
manifold.  Could this be the point where I have the air leak?  What's the
purpose of the phenolic block?  I have wondered if its absence causes some
change in the flow into the manifold?
:
I'm going out on a limb here....
Not really sure what the phenolic block's purpose in life is..
I have always thought it was to insulate the carb. from high manifold temps.
And the metallic liner inside it was to prevent leakage between the two.
Never ran any of my vehicles without one so wouldn't know
how it would effect an engine's performance.

:vacuum at the distributor seems ok, could not easily suck air through that
line from the carb. end.
:
Shouldn't be able to suck and air throught the vaccum line.
Was the dizzy advancing when you applied suction?
: Any thoughts on what else could be causing the problem?  I'm not
suspicious of the carb because :Bruce ran it and it ran great for him.  I do
wonder if the accelerator pump or a leak at the :accelerator linkage could
be part of the problem but do not believe so given Bruce's testing.
:
Please Simon let me know how you make out with it...
Bruce F.

--__--__--

Message: 31
From: Nick Danger <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] How to put on a soft top? Thanks Everyone!
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 20:34:15 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Thanks everyone - It seems I AM missing 4 anchor points. The two near either 
door, and the two at the rear corners. I've ordered these from RN (all of $10 
or something) and hopefully will have them in Weds night.

I have a question on the shrinking tho. If this is such a concern, should I 
not leave the sides rolled? Right now the top itself is tied down nice and 
tight but without the door anchors I couldnt exactly have the side flaps 
down, so I rolled them up. If they get wet, are they going to shrink and be 
non usable? Or can I just soak and stretch them again?

-Nick

--__--__--

Message: 32
From: Nick Danger <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] How to put on a soft top?
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 20:40:46 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Monday 30 July 2001 08:29, Brad wrote:

> I recently went through this exercise.  It's hard to believe these tops
> come with no pictures and no instructions.  Since I'd never seen up-close a
> Series truck with a soft top I was at a complete loss.

(Note to AB, RN, BP etc etc... Make some directions!!)

> In order to help you and to solicit response to places I may have been
> mistaken, I have taken photos of my installation.  You can find them at
> http://spoetzl.net/SoftTop.  Please take a look and let me know if you have
> questions.  

This is where I can definately see Im missing the four points. :-) Looks like 
you and I figured it out the same way. Im not sure what those grommit holes 
on the sides are for either, I have them too. The web strap seems to be 
plenty for holding the back and sides together.

> Good luck with the top.  I love mine.

Me too. Only 2 days and I love it. I was the designated driver for lunch 
today, 8 people. Was an amusing trip to Subway...

-Nick

--__--__--

Message: 33
From: "Carl Kinkade" <[email-masked]>
To: "RRO" <[email-masked]>, "LRO" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 20:22:56 -0500
Subject: [lro] crimp gap?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I am putting the finishing steps on the kickdown cable replacement and the
manual says to connect the kickdown cable to the engine and leave a .25mm to
1.25 crimp gap.  What is a crimp gap?

Carl

--__--__--

Message: 34
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 21:37:10 -0400
From: "M. Tompkins" <[email-masked]>
Organization: M&M Stained Glass
To: LRO <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] 2001 Events
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I have a section on my web site where I had posted
events. Seems I've been remise in updating this
section. I really rely on people on the list to send
me the info for this page. So if you sponsor or
know of an event, please send the details to me
and I'll update my web page.
I need date, location, event description, POC,
email address, phone and/or web site.

Thanks,
Mike
'66 Hybrid Coiler 109" SW
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Trails/6623/

--__--__--

Message: 35
From: "Alex Maiolo" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] carby tuning (longish - 30-40 some lines)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 21:56:25 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Simon-
It is my experience that you have got to use the phenolic block. Make sure
your gaskets are good - don't use any kind of goo, they should seal just
fine with even pressure. If you can't get a phenolic block, you can usually
get the material and make one with a Dremel. I'm not sure if thickness
variances matter since I always just replaced cracked blocks with a new one
of the same thickness. If you had a 2.0 engine I'd say finding a block would
be hard (I had to make mine on my Series I) but since you have a 2.25 I'm
sure all of the parts houses carry replacements and I bet they are cheap.
Get one sent Blue Label and make sure they send some new gaskets.

Best of Luck,
Alex Maiolo
Chapel Hill NC

----- Original Message -----
From: "Simon J. Harding" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 7:18 PM
Subject: [lro] carby tuning (longish - 30-40 some lines)

>
> I'm hoping the list can confirm for me I'm not missing something here, and
just need to keep fiddling with this carb.  My zenith carb was bad, would
not idle.  So Bruce Fowler kindly rebuilt a spare zenith I had.  He plugged
the extraneous port, replaced the gaskets, and planed the two halves.  He
did not mess with the accelerator pump because it looked fine.  He tested it
on one of his rigs and it was fine.
>
> I have a tired 2.25.  Timing is perfect, new tuneup parts and wires a week
or two old. new coil.  I use the terms choke and cold start interchangeably.
>
> I installed the rebuilt carb, set up the choke as it appeared on my old
one, with the cable all the way in (cold start off), the butterfly near
vertical, very small gap left in throat when choke fuilly on.  Idled just
fine.  Nice and smooth.  Engine fully warmed up.  Cold start fully off.
Engine hesitates on coming off idle.  Mixture screw at two turns out.
Otherwise runs and accelerates fine.  I fiddled endlessly with the idle
mixture and idle speed screws and finally, the only way I could get rid of
this stumble was to set the cold start so that the butterfly is 1/4 closed
when the cold start knob is all the way in (off).  With it set this way
however, (1) acceleration seems to suffer, (my theory is, due to air
starvation?), and (2) I can't get the idle low enough.  Stumble continued
even with the mix screw way, way out.
>
> I checked for air leaks at the carb itself and have none I can detect.
Sprayed WD 40 at the carb and there was no detectible change in the idle.
One possibility is the base plate.  I did not swap the old one off when I
installed the new carb. because the inlet tube in the new base plate for the
PCV system was a different size than the tubing I have on the PCV set up.  I
have noticed a little semi liquid at the point where the base plate meets
the intake manifold.  It was there with the old carby too, which also ran
lean but did not stumble.
>
> There is no phenolic block in place between the carb base plate and the
manifold.  Could this be the point where I have the air leak?  What's the
purpose of the phenolic block?  I have wondered if its absence causes some
change in the flow into the manifold?
>
> vacuum at the distributor seems ok, could not easily suck air through that
line from the carb. end.
>
> Any thoughts on what else could be causing the problem?  I'm not
suspicious of the carb because Bruce ran it and it ran great for him.  I do
wonder if the accelerator pump or a leak at the accelerator linkage could be
part of the problem but do not believe so given Bruce's testing.
>
> I'm sorry this is so long, but I would appreciate any tips on things to
look for.
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 36
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 21:52:27 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Some photos of a OVLR expedition
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Want to see photos of Valdez in action? The Yellow Peril buried up past the 
tires in yellow soup? Basil waving a wheel in the air? Have a look at 
<http://keith.miata.net/landy/offroad.htm>http<http://keith.miata.net/landy/offroad.htm>://keith.miata.net/landy/offroad.htm 
.  A few of us from the OVLR hit the trails on Sunday and ended up getting 
everything we had stuck in the mud, including a dirt bike...

If you want the complete, unedited and full size set of photos they're up 
at 
<http://keith.miata.net/landy/larose/larose_290701.zip>http<http://keith.miata.net/landy/larose/larose_290701.zip>://keith.miata.net/landy/larose/larose_290701.zip 
.It's about 10.2
MB to download.

Hey, J-L! Your server is bouncing my email. I want to work out something 
with alternator pulleys and your various Solexes :) Give me a call at 276 
2466 or let me know what your phone number is...

Keith
------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

--__--__--

Message: 37
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 19:36:09 -0700
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] now I've gone and done it...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Well, now I've gone and done it....

After listening to everyone's advice, looking at half a dozen local rovers, and kicking tires on the web, I've gone and bought Ron Wards 1965 IIA 88" soft top.

It arrived today from Georgia and I spent all afternoon tooling around locally.  Got stopped by the LAPD for not having tags two streets from the house, but  once they heard the story (and let them gawk for a bit), they told me just to keep it real local, get the tags ASAP, and that they would spread the word that I'm OK for a few days.  That makes things easier while I go through registration, etc.

Now, it's off to a few day garage time to crawl under and over to tighten, straighten, and take stock of what's what.  The only miscue I am struggling with right now is the carburetor.  It's a Solex and I think I've got the idle and mixture set, but it really lags on the return to idle after you let off the gas.  You've got to blip the throttle to get her to back down.  Time to check out the linkage I think.  Any other thoughts?

Oh God, what have I done?  ;-)

Jeff Bieler
1965 88" IIA
1997 Discovery SD

--__--__--

Message: 38
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Some photos of a OVLR expedition
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 23:52:50 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Keith,

thanks for posting some pictures... it's great to see Valdez up for
display...

Unfortunately the 109 is mad at me. I was scurrying over to Francois Juneau
(AKA Unimog man) for a beer and discussion of upcoming vehicular projects,
and I blew a halfshaft in the middle of an intersection. This is probably
Niall Forbes' old short halfshaft as I have a spare long one, and it is
mathematically impossible to break a halfshaft when you have a spare one.
This, plus the mysterious brakelight problems... Probably venting
frustrations as we DID discuss Range Rovers around it during the off-road,
and it is probably getting the general idea of my next butchering
adventure...

The pictures do not give the full picture on the Suzuki. Fortunately,
everyone was able to keep from being bent in half with laughter as Kieth
Tanner's Basil yanked the Zook out with a truly boring pull. The suzuki was
sporting the equivalent of a Hoosier drag slick as tires. Hmm. Kinda reminds
me of winter romp, everyone pulling my sorry butt out of the snow.

The drop was nice, especially feeling the 88's lift the rear tires a bit -
Unfortunately the 109's trip through was not nearly as interesting. Boring
old heavy thing, that 109 ;-)

All in all, a very nice trip, nice driving, I would have liked to have seen
more mud, but I got a chance to see the RM parabolics in action, and I
changed my mind - I was planning on converting my 109 to coil springs, but
after seeing what kind of flex you can get out of a basically
brane-less-simple suspension system, that will last a good long time and is
easy to fix, I'm saving my pennies for a set of leafs, that will sit on top
of RR axles. I am hoping this will better the available flex as going spring
over usually increases flexiness a bit...

J-L

----- Original Message -----
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 9:52 PM
Subject: [lro] Some photos of a OVLR expedition

>
> Want to see photos of Valdez in action? The Yellow Peril buried up past
the
> tires in yellow soup? Basil waving a wheel in the air? Have a look at
>
<http://keith.miata.net/landy/offroad.htm>http<http://keith.miata.net/landy/
offroad.htm>://keith.miata.net/landy/offroad.htm
> .  A few of us from the OVLR hit the trails on Sunday and ended up getting
> everything we had stuck in the mud, including a dirt bike...
>
> If you want the complete, unedited and full size set of photos they're up
> at
>
<http://keith.miata.net/landy/larose/larose_290701.zip>http<http://keith.mia
ta.net/landy/larose/larose_290701.zip>://keith.miata.net/landy/larose/larose
_290701.zip
> .It's about 10.2
> MB to download.
>
> Hey, J-L! Your server is bouncing my email. I want to work out something
> with alternator pulleys and your various Solexes :) Give me a call at 276
> 2466 or let me know what your phone number is...
>
> Keith
> ------------
> Keith's page de home:
>     http://keith.miata.net
> ------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 39
From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 00:31:54 EDT
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] De-coking a 2.25 Petrol
Reply-To: [email-masked]

What's the drill on de-coking a petrol engine?  I know that it involves a 
fine water spray directed in to the carb while running, but how do you 
moderate the process safely?  What's too much, not enough?

The problem lingers from a wacky Zenith (no longer installed).

Bob Sharp
Tucson

--__--__--

Message: 40
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Some photos of a OVLR expedition
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 19:34:53 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Nice to see I am not the only one that had some fun this weekend.

http://www.aloharovers.com/eastrange3.htm

Only I think I found some deeper mud :-)

Pete

--__--__--

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