Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #26 - 30 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 03:03:49 -0400 (EDT)

Send LRO mailing list submissions to
	[email-masked]

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
	http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
	[email-masked]

You can reach the person managing the list at
	[email-masked]

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of LRO digest..."

Note: The Mailman has replaced Majordomo
	for list operations go to http://koan.team.net/mailman/index
	- Cheers, Bill

Today's Topics:

   1. Re: looking for floor panels (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
   2. Re: U-joint question (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
   3. Re: looking for floor panels (Ian Stuart)
   4. Re: Premature Clutch Hydraulic Failure (DaveB)
   5. Upper Engine Oil Starved (Sergi, Michael)
   6. Re: Upper Engine Oil Starved (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
   7. RE: RE: Peter's Running problem... (Tackley, John)
   8. Re: U-joint question (Keith Tanner)
   9. RE: looking for floor panels (Simon J. Harding)
  10. RE: looking for floor panels (Keith Tanner)
  11. Re: looking for floor panels (Jeff Bieler)
  12. RE: looking for floor panels (Matt Peckham)
  13. Re: Running problem (was: Re: [lro] gps) (Hope Peter)
  14. Re: RE: Peter's Running problem... (Hope Peter)
  15. Re: stopping using the hand brake (Nick Fankhauser)
  16. Turn indicator fixed: Answer within ([email-masked])
  17. Re: stopping using the hand brake (Robert A. Virzi)
  18. 1987D110 Frank Elson (Simon J. Harding)
  19. RE: Peter's Running problem.. ([email-masked])
  20. NATO Green paint & Michelin X (military) tires ([email-masked])
  21. Exhaust Brakes (Hope Peter)
  22. Re: Exhaust Brakes (David Scheidt)
  23. RE: Exhaust Brakes (Scott Wickham Jr.)
  24. Re: Exhaust Brakes (Jean-Leon Morin)
  25. Re: Exhaust Brakes (David Scheidt)
  26. Peter's running problem (Kirk Hillman)
  27. Re: 1987D110 Frank Elson (Kirk Hillman)
  28. Re: Exhaust Brakes (Paul Quin)
  29. Re: Peter's running problem (Hope Peter)
  30. Re: Peter's running problem (Hope Peter)

--__--__--

Message: 1
Subject: Re: [lro] looking for floor panels
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 06:20:25 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Do you think that would be thick enough for steering
guards and feul tank guards?

Peace,
Jerrod
'89RR

No, not really - those thend to be at least 1/8 thick if not more.

                    Alan

--__--__--

Message: 2
Subject: Re: [lro] U-joint question
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 06:23:38 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

The U-joints sound OK - but when you say the joints are at 90 degrees to
each other...that concerns me.

U-Joints are not constant velocity joints - they have to work in phase to
each other. Unless I miss my guess, the yokes shoulsd match, not be 90
out....

Any chance you can borrow a propshaft from someone just to see what
happens?

                         ajr

--__--__--

Message: 3
From: Ian Stuart <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] looking for floor panels
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 09:02:28 +0100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Thursday 26 July 2001 05:54, Bill Fishel wrote:
> But think of the status... oh wait, most of us would figure some
> village lost their idiot.
Eh? what? did some call?

-- 
           --==**==--
Ian Stuart - EDINA, DataLibrary, University computing services.
---------------------------------
A man depriving some village, somewhere, of a first-class idiot
---------------------------------
http://lucas.ucs.ed.ac.uk/

--__--__--

Message: 4
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 05:46:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: DaveB <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Premature Clutch Hydraulic Failure
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

--- joe mulqueen <[email-masked]> wrote:
 I tried bleeding and noted the
> fluid is thoroughly black.  I'm also getting bubbles
> even when I carefully monitor the small integral
> reservoir level 

Well, I have had the fluid turn black fairly quickly after installing
new parts. Unfortunately there is no way to tell wther this means
imminent death for the hyfraulic seals inside. I have had systems go
for years that way. So buy a rebuild kit and keep it in a nice climate
controlled storage somewhere. 

As for the bubbles, that means the M/C needs to be bled. Wrap a rag
around the exit line, have someone push the pedal down, crack the line
nut open to let some fluid out, tighten, release pedal. From there, its
the same procedure as drowning a cat in a bathtub. (Repeat until there
are no more bubbles)

later

=====
DaveB
Arlington, VA
"GreenHELL" '72 SIII 88"- "Unstoppable"
"Red Square" '60 SII 109"- "Purrs like a (leaky) kitten" 

Please ignore the following words from our sponsor:

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/

--__--__--

Message: 5
From: "Sergi, Michael" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 08:51:00 -0400
Subject: [lro] Upper Engine Oil Starved
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I got the engine restarted (very complicated reasons for earlier starting
problems).  Runs great.  Purrs just like a sewing machine, in a way.  But
the head seems oil starved.  It is like I am getting no oil to the head and
the rocker shafts, pushrods, ect.  The oil pressure looks good.  I think if
the head gasket(which I replaced) is put in upside down it can block oil
passages.  I swear I installed it correctly.  I pulled the external oil
gallery piping on the head and no oil is flowing through it either.

Mike

--__--__--

Message: 6
Subject: Re: [lro] Upper Engine Oil Starved
To: "lro" <[email-masked]>
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 09:04:34 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

If nothing is flowing through the external pipe that's your problem -
that's where the oil gets TO the head. There is no internal piping in the
head other than that to run the oil into the rocker-arm shafts - it drains
down to the block via the pushrod holes.

Figure out why the oil isn't coming up the external pipe and that should
solve your problem.

                    ajr

--__--__--

Message: 7
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] RE: Peter's Running problem...
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 09:22:05 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Yes, that's one of several possibilities...it appears you have achieved max
flow rate of your system at 80% throttle.  the Weber can flow 191 cfm.  80%
of that is 152 cfm.  Some component in the system is limiting you to 152 cfm
overall.  Also, the exhaust might not be restrictive enough for max torque
with your PRESENT setup, but there could also be other issues.  
What air cleaner are you using? 
Did you have the head flow tested or does ACR supply flow figures for their
head? (What size/type exhaust system do they recommend?)  
It's also quite possible the head is at max flow capacity, at 80% throttle
with the Weber(152 cfm)...the head has a definite maximum flow rate, which
can vary due to many factors...cam profile/grind(lift/duration and overlap),
intake & exhaust valve sizes, valve spring rates.  Other factors: intake
manifold flow rate, exhaust header flow rate, exhaust tube size and length,
muffler/silencer flow rate, etc.
That's why it's so important to go with a tried and true setup that is
matched for flow rate.  You can spend a lot of money 'easter egging' with
different components searching for the exact match-up.  You might want to
consider calling ACR to discuss your present setup...the phone call might
shed some light here and save you some time and money.

But if you really think you have a fuel starvation problem, why not simply
rig a gravity feed from a 1 gallon can secured to your roof rack, using
tubing of sufficient size to supply fuel the carb and go for a (short) drive
?  That's a simple procedure that should eliminate this suspicion (though it
possible you could still have the float mal-adjusted...but that's quick to
check and remedy). Check also that your float valve is not sticking in the
seat.
Good luck, and let us know how you fare...

JT/ric

From: Hope Peter [mailto:[email-masked]]
who said:
Guess what your saying is that I opened the exhaust up
too much.
Would this explain why there is so much travel with the throttle plates with
out any response?
This happens on the flats and down hills.  No difference between full open
and 80%  open.
Pete

_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 8
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 09:37:08 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] U-joint question
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>U-Joints are not constant velocity joints - they have to work in phase to
>each other. Unless I miss my guess, the yokes shoulsd match, not be 90
>out....

Alan wins again. I just rotated the ends of the propshaft so that the yokes 
were in phase (easy - only have to undo one end of the shaft for that) and 
Basil is running as smooth as...well, as smooth as a Land Rover usually runs.

Keith Tanner
------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

--__--__--

Message: 9
From: "Simon J. Harding" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] looking for floor panels
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 07:10:10 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

------ =_NextPart_000_01C115A2.037D19A0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Why not triple strength glass?  Trouble is on the first strike with a =
rock it would shatter into all those pretty little cubes...  But it =
would be more scratch resistant.
Simon

	for list operations go to http://koan.team.net/mailman/index
	- Cheers, Bill
I always thought lexan floor panels would be cool although they would
get scratched in no time.

--=20
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling=20
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

------ =_NextPart_000_01C115A2.037D19A0
Content-Type: application/ms-tnef
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64

------ =_NextPart_000_01C115A2.037D19A0--

--__--__--

Message: 10
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 10:45:19 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] looking for floor panels
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I dunno about you guys, but my floor panels would be caked in mud pretty 
much 5 minutes after installation. Gold, glass, lexan - it would all look 
the same.

Keith

At 10:10 26-07-01, you wrote:
>Why not triple strength glass?  Trouble is on the first strike with a rock 
>it would shatter into all those pretty little cubes...  But it would be 
>more scratch resistant.
>Simon
>
>         for list operations go to http://koan.team.net/mailman/index
>         - Cheers, Bill
>I always thought lexan floor panels would be cool although they would
>get scratched in no time.
>
>
>--
>Jim Hall
>1966 88" Elephant Chaser
>http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
>"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
>with Jim." Mitch Stockdale
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

--__--__--

Message: 11
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 07:53:14 -0700
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] looking for floor panels
Reply-To: [email-masked]

No floor boards.  Go for the Flintstone effect.  That way, when  you break a
half shaft, you can always foot power your way home.  Just make sure your
passenger has the same size feet and same inseam as you do or you'll get
unbalanced pedaling.

Jeff

Keith Tanner wrote:

> Note: The Mailman has replaced Majordomo
>         for list operations go to http://koan.team.net/mailman/index
>         - Cheers, Bill
> I dunno about you guys, but my floor panels would be caked in mud pretty
> much 5 minutes after installation. Gold, glass, lexan - it would all look
> the same.
>
> Keith
>
> At 10:10 26-07-01, you wrote:
> >Why not triple strength glass?  Trouble is on the first strike with a rock
> >it would shatter into all those pretty little cubes...  But it would be
> >more scratch resistant.
> >Simon
> >
> >         for list operations go to http://koan.team.net/mailman/index
> >         - Cheers, Bill
> >I always thought lexan floor panels would be cool although they would
> >get scratched in no time.
> >
> >
> >--
> >Jim Hall
> >1966 88" Elephant Chaser
> >http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
> >"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
> >with Jim." Mitch Stockdale
> >_______________________________________________
> >LRO mailing list
> >[email-masked]
> >http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
>
> ------------
> Keith's page de home:
>     http://keith.miata.net
> ------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 12
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: [lro] looking for floor panels
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 10:57:04 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

actually you get windup, unless you have an open inseam...

-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Bieler [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 10:53 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] looking for floor panels

Note: The Mailman has replaced Majordomo
	for list operations go to http://koan.team.net/mailman/index
	- Cheers, Bill
No floor boards.  Go for the Flintstone effect.  That way, when  you break a
half shaft, you can always foot power your way home.  Just make sure your
passenger has the same size feet and same inseam as you do or you'll get
unbalanced pedaling.

Jeff

Keith Tanner wrote:

> Note: The Mailman has replaced Majordomo
>         for list operations go to http://koan.team.net/mailman/index
>         - Cheers, Bill
> I dunno about you guys, but my floor panels would be caked in mud pretty
> much 5 minutes after installation. Gold, glass, lexan - it would all look
> the same.
>
> Keith
>
> At 10:10 26-07-01, you wrote:
> >Why not triple strength glass?  Trouble is on the first strike with a
rock
> >it would shatter into all those pretty little cubes...  But it would be
> >more scratch resistant.
> >Simon
> >
> >         for list operations go to http://koan.team.net/mailman/index
> >         - Cheers, Bill
> >I always thought lexan floor panels would be cool although they would
> >get scratched in no time.
> >
> >
> >--
> >Jim Hall
> >1966 88" Elephant Chaser
> >http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
> >"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
> >with Jim." Mitch Stockdale
> >_______________________________________________
> >LRO mailing list
> >[email-masked]
> >http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
>
> ------------
> Keith's page de home:
>     http://keith.miata.net
> ------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 13
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: Running problem (was: Re: [lro] gps)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 09:34:15 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Nope.  Something like 170 main, 185 secondary, I think.  I may be
suffering
> from heat stroke, though.  Also, make sure the linkage really is doing
what
> you think it is.  I had problems with things bending, and then the
throttle
> wouldn't actually cause any changes for some fraction of the stroke.
>

Thanks

And yes, I had SWMBO work the pedal while I eyed the venturies, it's opening
fully :-(
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 14
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] RE: Peter's Running problem...
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 09:46:27 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Also, the exhaust might not be restrictive enough for max torque
> with your PRESENT setup, but there could also be other issues.
> What air cleaner are you using?

K&N that came with the weber.

> Did you have the head flow tested or does ACR supply flow figures for
their
> head? (What size/type exhaust system do they recommend?)

I will contact ACR and find out.  I went with the the webber because ACR
said there were interferance problems with the SU set up on the LHD Rovers
with the power brake booster.

Thanks again for all the input.
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 15
From: "Nick Fankhauser" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 12:02:47 -0500
Subject: [lro] Re: stopping using the hand brake
Reply-To: [email-masked]

:I find the discussion quite interesting, that goes along the lines of -'
you
:must fix up this brake (that works on only one wheel) so tha twhen the real
:brakes (that work on all 4 wheels) don't work, because one is too
:cheap/lazy/incometent/etc/etc to fix them properly, mean the 3 tonne
:vehicle is likely to kill someone, there is a chance of perhaps slowing

I think it goes more along the lines of 'You must fix the brake (that works
on 2 or 4 wheels) because you can't possibly be so arrogant that you believe
nothing can go wrong with your other braking system.' We may kid about it
because it is such a wimpy backup, but people who care make sure they have a
backup. (I think TeriAnn has an even better approach on the brakes, but most
of us are still working up to that level of safety modification.)

I've gotta side with David and the others on this one... Considering the
amount of discussion we put into working on the real brakes on this list,
the recent discussion about the parking brakes is important and appropriate.
I've acquired 3 rovers over the years, and none of them had working parking
brakes when I bought them. It seems to be a chronic, dangerous problem with
LR owners & I'm glad everybody on the list is spending a little time
thinking about it.

-Nick

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Nick Fankhauser

Business:
[email-masked]  Phone 1.765.965.7363  Fax 1.765.962.9788
doxpop  - Court records at your fingertips - http://www.doxpop.com/

Personal:
[email-masked]   http://www.fankhausers.com

--__--__--

Message: 16
From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 13:21:30 EDT
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Turn indicator fixed: Answer within
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi all,

Well, the big cigar goes to Al Richer--

Traced everything out and the problem came down to a lucas connecter behind 
the cover panel.  I had to cut it out since it was rusted/cold welded 
together, spliced the two wires together and the indicator started working.

A second cigar to Peter Hope (and Al too)--

Even though the voltmeter tested ok at the socket, the test lamp wouldn't 
light.  I don't really understand why one was normal and the other not, but 
hey that's life.

Thanks all

Nate

--__--__--

Message: 17
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 14:46:48 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: "Robert A. Virzi" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Re: stopping using the hand brake
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> I've acquired 3 rovers over the years, and none of them had working 
>parking brakes when I bought them. It seems to be a chronic, 
>dangerous problem with LR owners & I'm glad everybody on the list is 
>spending a little time thinking about it.

Or at least the guy in the truck behind you, eh?   ;-)

--__--__--

Message: 18
From: "Simon J. Harding" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 11:46:19 -0700
Subject: [lro] 1987D110 Frank Elson
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I have a line on a blue 1987 D 110 County with a 2.5 turbodiesel and a blown transmission.  This vehicle was brought into the US legally by a couple from England intending to travel the states and Central/South America and the transmission blew up on them here.  They left.  It stayed.  The transmission will be professionally replaced by a new or rebuild.  Reportedly the engine was  "gone through"  just before they left Jolly Old. It appears to be in good shape cosmetically inside and out and a glance underneath showed minimial/no engine oil drips over the few months its been sitting and it looked rust free-ish.   Setting aside the issues with getting the rig legally titled, what is this rig worth?  What sort of power /hill climbing ability does a 2.5 TD offer?  I know nothing about 110s and even less of 110s of this vintage.  What were the transmission options?  When I saw it the transmission and T case were out and I don't even know if this would be a full time 4wd or have !
the same set up as the series rigs.  It does not have locking hubs, but that's about all I know about 110 drive trains.

And no, it does not have gold floorboards.  But I did just get a very nice replacement floorboard for $20 no muss no fuss.  I think ya'll spent more time on that issue than I did!

Simon.

--__--__--

Message: 19
From: [email-masked]
To: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 09:13:52 +1000
Subject: [lro] RE: Peter's Running problem..
Reply-To: [email-masked]

"Tackley, John" replied to peter saying (my comments are at the bottom). .

"This suggestion may sound weird, but it may shed some light on your
questions, might even answer them.
To my mind it seems your intake & exhaust setup is flowing for HP, that is
to say, better top end speed.  HP gains almost always come at the expense of
Torque, and believe me, in a Series Land Rover, or any relatively heavy
vehicle, torque is your best friend.

Try this simple experiment:

Drill 2 holes in your exhaust pipe, after the muffler/silencer, one on top,
one on bottom.  Use a drill bit size that will allow a 20 penny nail to drop
in from the top...now, drop one 20 penny nail in and take that hill again,
measuring performance carefully. If you see improvement, you have increased
torque slightly due to the restriction in exhaust flow.  Now drill 2 more
holes and add another nail...repeat by adding nails until performance drops
off...then remove one nail.  You have now "tuned your exhaust" for max
torque.  Your top end highway speed will probably suffer a bit by dropping a
few mph, but that's the trade off...HP to Torque.  After doing this and
driving for a bit (if you are crazy enough in the first place to listen to
my suggestion) check your plugs, as you may need to re-jet the carb. (I like
to take a long hill at WOT, shutting off the ignition just prior to reaching
the top, pull over and extract plugs for examination and re-jet
accordingly).

Now, if you do this experiment and you see no improvement, or even
degradation of performance, then I would experiment with different carbsetc"

John,

a very interesting comment/suggestion, - if what you are saying is true and
works (and I don't doubt you in anyway), why not fit an old exaust break from a
truck in the exaust after the silencer and connect it to the hand throttle -
then when you've found the correct notch for max. torque you can select it when
needed, such as off-road or in the hills, when you are on the open highway you
can open it right up for you engine to perform in max-power mode.  Of course you
would have the engine brake as an added advantage for use in steep bush country.

Richard C

_________________________________________________________________

--__--__--

Message: 20
From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 19:33:39 -0400
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] NATO Green paint & Michelin X (military) tires
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi all,

Does any one have a source for or know where I can get a quart or gallon of the military IRR Chemical Resistant paint in NATO Green so that I can touch up my ex-MoD 109?

Also, can anyone help me find the Michelin X tires as used on MoD Land Rovers?

(Since I am on digest mode, please CC me directly.)

Thanks in advance.

Best Cheers,
Ray Burton
Richmond, Va.
'73? ex-MoD 109, ("Truck, No. 3")

--__--__--

Message: 21
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 14:04:46 -1000
Subject: [lro] Exhaust Brakes
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> a very interesting comment/suggestion, - if what you are saying is true
and
> works (and I don't doubt you in anyway), why not fit an old exaust break
from a
> truck in the exaust after the silencer and connect it to the hand
throttle -

OK, what the heck is an exhaust brake?  Where does one find one?
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 22
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 19:32:36 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Exhaust Brakes
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Thu, 26 Jul 2001, Hope Peter wrote:

:Note: The Mailman has replaced Majordomo
:	for list operations go to http://koan.team.net/mailman/index
:	- Cheers, Bill
:> a very interesting comment/suggestion, - if what you are saying is true
:and
:> works (and I don't doubt you in anyway), why not fit an old exaust break
:from a
:> truck in the exaust after the silencer and connect it to the hand
:throttle -
:
:
:OK, what the heck is an exhaust brake?  Where does one find one?
:Pete

it's a doo-hicky that fits into the exhaust system.  It's agot a
restrictor, typiclaly electrically operated, that increases exhaust system
back pressure, and provides improved braking performance.  They're used on
mid-sized trucks.

-- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

--__--__--

Message: 23
From: "Scott Wickham Jr." <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Exhaust Brakes
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 20:41:50 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

  I believe the exhaust 'break' mentioned is really an exhaust cut-out?
I've seen them in the JC Whitless rag.  It a small Y tube you weld into the
exhaust where you want, usually right after the manifold.  when you want an
open exhaust, like a drag racing car, pull the in cab cable and, the gases
are routed out the Y's branch without going through the rest of the exhaust.
When your in town, push the in cab cable so as not to scare the locals with
all the racket.
   I've heard many stories about the old '42 GMC tow-truck that was the
wrecker at ACE auto wrecker that my grandfather owned in the 50's.  This
truck was equipped with such an exhaust cut-out.  My uncle Sonny (that's
right, the famous uncle Sonny) tells me when he was a boy, him and his dad
would go to get a wreck and when they cleared town, dad would give a nod and
uncle Son would get to pull the cable out and open up the exhaust ;)  Simple
fun in the 50's.
  An exhaust break/Jake break is something totally different, although they
both make the vehicle louder...

Scooter

--__--__--

Message: 24
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Exhaust Brakes
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 22:43:34 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Exhaust brakes (jake brakes) are not effective on gas engines, as the
compression ratio is not enough to produce a noticeable difference. It might
be a good method to slow you down on a grade, but it won't really haul you
down quick.

On a diesel, Jake brakes are usually found right at the cylinder head, and,
from memory, I remember some which would actually feed explosions from one
cyl to the next, while the piston was travelling upwards, effectively
slowing down the piston quite a bit.  The expansion would equalise pressure
between both cylinders, with some venting, which was controlled by the user.
The successive blasts of exhaust exiting the combustion chamber are what
causes the loud as heck but way cool BRAAAAAAP. (Pretty sure that's how it
works, not 100% - been a while since I took one apart).

There was an ex mil. ML 6x6 (deuce and a half) tractor that a local farmer
used to own, to pull flatbeds of bales of hay around, equipped with the
nastiest diesel (multifuel) and it had a jake brake. He was once getting a
part fixed in the shop while discussing what the brake did, and he said he
could put a passenger through the windshield with it. Sounds effective.

J-L

--__--__--

Message: 25
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 21:56:55 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Exhaust Brakes
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Thu, 26 Jul 2001, Jean-Leon Morin wrote:

:Note: The Mailman has replaced Majordomo
:	for list operations go to http://koan.team.net/mailman/index
:	- Cheers, Bill
:Exhaust brakes (jake brakes) are not effective on gas engines, as the
:compression ratio is not enough to produce a noticeable difference. It might
:be a good method to slow you down on a grade, but it won't really haul you
:down quick.

A "Jake Brake" is different from an exhaust brake.  A Jake brake works by
opening the exhaust valve prematurly.  Instead of the the expanding
combustion gasses being used to force the piston down, they're vented to the
exhaust.  They're loud.  Really, really loud.  They work really well,
producing 300 or more horsepower of stopping force in a big Cummins
diesel.  This is what keeps big semi-trucks from running away on long steep
decents

An exhaust brake is simply a restrictive valve valve, usually opened and
closed by a solenoid, in the exhaust pipe.  They work, but not nearly as
well as Jake brake.  They're a lot quiter.

-- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

--__--__--

Message: 26
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 23:20:43 -0600
Subject: [lro] Peter's running problem
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Pete,
    Just curious, were the jet sizes on your 32/36 the same when you got it?
The reason I ask is that I just had mine off (for a couple of weeks).
Tonight I looked at the main jets and they are the same.  This seemed odd to
me because even though the bores are the same at intake (27mm), they are
different at the butterfly valve (32mm,36mm).  My brain tells me that the
larger bore would need larger jets all around.  My jets are currently 175's
from the 150's stock.
    Speaking of the Weber, can someone please shed some light on a few
things?  There are two smooth little screws on opposite sides of the carb
which, when removed expose another little jet type of object.  Mine said
150.  What are these?  Also, there are three little curiosities at the
bottom of the float bowl.  The one at the very bottom looks like a little
valve of sorts.  The other two are mounted at an angle.  Names for these...
anyone?  I am a little ignorant about such things, but am inspired to learn.
    On the subject of carbs, in Malaysia they are putting 2.25's into
90's!!!  I drove one of these and it blew me away.  It wasn't like a 350,
but it would easily do 110 all day long and has FAR more torque than any
2.25 I have driven.  The secret?  It's in the carb, a Stromberg (sp) off a
old Volvo 164.  Talk about simple and elegant carb design.  My friend Vicky
said the real secret was that it has a diaphragm rather than a spring.  For
those of you that think the 2.25 can't perform, try competing in an
international competition called the Rain Forest Challenge... they do, with
the same little tractor motor most of have.

Kirk
Freshly back from Malaysia and pumped to drive my LR!!!

--__--__--

Message: 27
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] 1987D110 Frank Elson
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 23:29:44 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Simon,
    If you want amazing torque, try the Toyota 20F Diesel.  I think that is
what it was.  I drove about 500 miles in the Malaysian rain forest in a 110
that had that set-up.  I was impressed when I first road in the truck, but I
got REALLY impressed when we were in the middle of nowhere and lost 1st,
2nd, rev, and hi range.  Ordinarily that would just mean going slow, but
when you are off road that means you need serious torque to use 3rd and
above to overcome obstacles.  Please don't ask how it came to be that I did
this insane trip.

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 28
From: "Paul Quin" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Exhaust Brakes
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 23:03:39 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Yes, they are loud.  Victoria, being a popular retirement city, is full of
signs reading "Please do not use engine brakes in urban areas"...

Paul in Victoria.

--__--__--

Message: 29
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Peter's running problem
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 20:09:36 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Pete,
>     Just curious, were the jet sizes on your 32/36 the same when you got
it?
> The reason I ask is that I just had mine off (for a couple of weeks).

I haven't even checked.  Need to.

>     Speaking of the Weber, can someone please shed some light on a few
> things?  There are two smooth little screws on opposite sides of the carb
> which, when removed expose another little jet type of object.  Mine said
> 150.  What are these?  Also, there are three little curiosities at the
> bottom of the float bowl.  The one at the very bottom looks like a little
> valve of sorts.  The other two are mounted at an angle.  Names for
these...
> anyone?  I am a little ignorant about such things, but am inspired to
learn.

Have a look at
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/DGV5A.pdf
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 30
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Peter's running problem
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 20:10:37 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

first link was the picture, this is the parts list

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/dgvpl.pdf

--__--__--

_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

End of LRO Digest