Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #25 - 38 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 03:04:59 -0400 (EDT)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Series Paint (G. Mugele)
   2. RE: Peter's Running problem... (Tackley, John)
   3. Clutch alignment and oily e-brake (Garrick Olsen)
   4. looking for floor panels (Simon J. Harding)
   5. RE: looking for floor panels (Tackley, John)
   6. Re: looking for floor panels (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
   7. RE: looking for floor panels (Simon J. Harding)
   8. Re: Another day in paradise, or, check your brakes... (Luca Ingianni)
   9. Re: Not sure what I do'ed. (Jim Hall)
  10. Re: looking for floor panels (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  11. Re: looking for floor panels (Paul Oxley)
  12. RE: looking for floor panels (Simon J. Harding)
  13. 8th Annual SAE Event ([email-masked])
  14. RE: looking for floor panels (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  15. Re: Another day in paradise, or, check your brakes... (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  16. RE: looking for floor panels (Matt Peckham)
  17. RE: looking for floor panels (David Scheidt)
  18. Re: Series Paint (Faure, Marin)
  19. RE: looking for floor panels (David Scheidt)
  20. Re: looking for floor panels (Bill Fishel)
  21. Re: Floor panels: (Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus)
  22. Re: looking for floor panels (Jerrod)
  23. Re: Series Paint (RON WARD)
  24. U-joint question (Keith Tanner)
  25. RE: looking for floor panels (Easton Trevor A)
  26. RE: looking for floor panels (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  27. Re: looking for floor panels (Rich Williams II)
  28. RE: looking for floor panels (Simon J. Harding)
  29. Solved - Clutch Hydraulic Failure (joe mulqueen)
  30. Re: stopping using the hand brake ([email-masked])
  31. RE: looking for floor panels (Easton Trevor A)
  32. Re: looking for floor panels ([email-masked])
  33. Re: looking for floor panels (Winn Bearden)
  34. Re: looking for floor panels (Jim Hall)
  35. Re: Running problem (was: Re: [lro] gps) (Hope Peter)
  36. Re: RE: Peter's Running problem... (Hope Peter)
  37. Re: Running problem (was: Re: [lro] gps) (David Scheidt)
  38. Re: Re: stopping using the hand brake (David Scheidt)

--__--__--

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 01:35:13 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: "G. Mugele" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Series Paint
Reply-To: [email-masked]

At 5:25 PM -0400 7/24/01, KURT W. KRAUSS wrote:

>My question is, is the red called Poppy Red for the NAS '73's?  Also,
>are the wheels/top  limestone?

Yup and yup.

       _
     / o\_         Gerald Mugele
    /   )-- \       [email-masked]
   /    |            Glen Ellen, CA
*** "It's not on any map - true places never are."  -- Mark Twain 

--__--__--

Message: 2
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 09:21:23 -0400
Subject: [lro] RE: Peter's Running problem...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Peter,

This suggestion may sound weird, but it may shed some light on your
questions, might even answer them.
To my mind it seems your intake & exhaust setup is flowing for HP, that is
to say, better top end speed.  HP gains almost always come at the expense of
Torque, and believe me, in a Series Land Rover, or any relatively heavy
vehicle, torque is your best friend.

Try this simple experiment:

Drill 2 holes in your exhaust pipe, after the muffler/silencer, one on top,
one on bottom.  Use a drill bit size that will allow a 20 penny nail to drop
in from the top...now, drop one 20 penny nail in and take that hill again,
measuring performance carefully. If you see improvement, you have increased
torque slightly due to the restriction in exhaust flow.  Now drill 2 more
holes and add another nail...repeat by adding nails until performance drops
off...then remove one nail.  You have now "tuned your exhaust" for max
torque.  Your top end highway speed will probably suffer a bit by dropping a
few mph, but that's the trade off...HP to Torque.  After doing this and
driving for a bit (if you are crazy enough in the first place to listen to
my suggestion) check your plugs, as you may need to re-jet the carb. (I like
to take a long hill at WOT, shutting off the ignition just prior to reaching
the top, pull over and extract plugs for examination and re-jet
accordingly).

Now, if you do this experiment and you see no improvement, or even
degradation of performance, then I would experiment with different carbs.
In 1976, Jim Allen reported on the performance of several carbs and the
Rochester came out on top, even though it is a 30.9mm venturi style, flowing
167 cfm, compared to your Weber 32/36 2 bbl with its two 27/27mm bbls
flowing 191 cfm.  The Roch won in Jim's experiment because the smaller
overall flow rate of the Rochester provides torque gains over the Weber and
others, which provide HP gains, or higher top end/flat out
speed...eventually. Torque is strength, or the ability to attain speed in
less time, while HP provides more speed at the expense of acceleration time
or "strength". (I appologize for the rudimentary lesson...you most likely
already know all this...)

The ACR complete setup employs an SU HS6.  I don't know the flow rates of
this carb,(wish I did...anyone know?) but the SUs have remained extrememly
popular over many years and too many applications to even count (including
use on Harley's V-Twins)due to their relative ease of tuning, and range by
simply raising/lowering the needle and/or changing the needle (varying the
needle's taper) to change mixture and TQ/HP curves.  Undoubtedly ACR uses
SUs for this reason and also due to the relative availablity of them in the
UK compared to the US Rochester BV (which, BTW, you can purchase
new/re-built over-the-counter at NAPA for 100$).  I would try the SU first.
I doubt the mechanical fuel pump is the culprit.

JT/ric
Peter asked:
So I am wondering, what is the problem???  I am wondering if its the fuel
pump.  WHat is the book fuel pressure with the stock pump?
How much should the pressure be for the DVG?
Should I go to an electric with a regulator?
Float set wrong?
MNLIA (Mahalo Nui Loa In Advanced)

Pete

--__--__--

Message: 3
From: "Garrick Olsen" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 08:25:03 -0500
Subject: [lro] Clutch alignment and oily e-brake
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I splurged and got the $5 RN plastic clutch alignment tool when I redid my 
clutch- this was uncharted territory for me with a rented hoist and I needed 
the RN confidence. I AM very cheap at baseline, though, as appropriate to a 
LRO.

I've got the oily-s on the handbrake with no effect on pulling up (not back- 
you IIA people!)  The drum is thickly coated with oil front, top, bottom, 
and back.
Will I need other parts besides a seal from the transfer box?  Probably 
shoes and maybe a spring or 2?  Some special Brit bolts?

-Rik in Minnesota
1960 SWB SW

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 4
From: "Simon J. Harding" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 07:01:41 -0700
Subject: [lro] looking for floor panels
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Just had my floor panels, transmission tunnel and cowl sandblasted, since I had them out to replace my gear shift lever.  The pass side floor panel is heavily corroded.  The corrosion was hidden by body filler on the top side and a ton of undercoating on the underside.  The pass. side has one hole and the little tab that goes around the area of the transfer lever broke off.  If anyone has an extra set or just a passenger side floor panel they can spare, please contact me.
Simon

--__--__--

Message: 5
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] looking for floor panels
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 10:24:10 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Why not get some diamond plate from your local metal supplier (...or get a
full-size pickup tailgate protector made of diamond plate aluminium, if
cheaper) and use your old panels as templates for the new ones.  This is a
nice upgrade...unless you're a purist for originality...

JT/ric

--__--__--

Message: 6
Subject: Re: [lro] looking for floor panels
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 10:32:22 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Simon,

Road sign and a jigsaw.....enough said. Better, thicker aluminum, easy to
work, last forever, and cheap if you go to your local DPW barn with a
six-pack or some doughnuts and a friendly attitude.

                    ajr

--__--__--

Message: 7
From: "Simon J. Harding" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] looking for floor panels
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 07:30:12 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

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Cutting some or having the old repaired was Plan B.
-----Original Message-----
From:	Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [SMTP:[email-masked]]
Sent:	Wednesday, July 25, 2001 7:32 AM
To:	[email-masked]
Subject:	Re: [lro] looking for floor panels

Note: The Mailman has replaced Majordomo
	for list operations go to http://koan.team.net/mailman/index
	- Cheers, Bill

Simon,

Road sign and a jigsaw.....enough said. Better, thicker aluminum, easy to
work, last forever, and cheap if you go to your local DPW barn with a
six-pack or some doughnuts and a friendly attitude.

                    ajr

_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

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Message: 8
From: Luca Ingianni <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Another day in paradise, or, check your brakes...
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 20:34:57 +0200
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Am Monday 23 July 2001 21:16 schrieb John Cranfield:

> Not really. Landrover parking brakes are very effective with a little
> maintenance.
> John and Muddy

Are they?

My handbrake is ...well... noticeable, but not exactly amazing. I have 
adjusted it to the best of my abilities. How strong should/could it be?
I would say it's maybe as strong as the 2.25 diesel engine brake in first 
or second gear.
I have to admit that I drove a couple of times with the handbrake on (when 
it was still badly misadjusted) - are brake pads affected by heat? Would 
changing the brake pads help?
Also my tranny leaks a bit but I assume my drives with the handbrake on 
(until it smoked =8-)  ) should have burnt any oil off so oily pads 
shouldn't be a problem, right?
What would be necessary to get a decent brake (and no, I've never seen one 
from the inside)?

TIA & have fun,
	Luca

- -- 
There are very few personal problems that cannot be solved through a
suitable application of high explosives.

--__--__--

Message: 9
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 21:02:41 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Not sure what I do'ed.
Reply-To: [email-masked]

And does it move at all in 2wd? If not, I'd have someone look under it 
while you try do drive and see if the propshaft is turning. If not, it 
is in the xfer. If it is, look harder at the diff. Make sure The drive
flanges haven't stripped out also.

Matt Peckham wrote:
> 
> Note: The Mailman has replaced Majordomo
>         for list operations go to http://koan.team.net/mailman/index
>         - Cheers, Bill
>  I was able to drive it back to camp, but it wouldn't get over any
> obstacles.  I did not play with the lever before heading back to camp.  I
> drove back to the campground, another 12 miles, without shifting out.  We
> popped it in and out of neutral to get the prop shaft off.  it didn't want
> to turn when we rotated the prop, but it moved freely in neutral.
> 
> That's one of the reasons I figured it was the rear, not the Xfer case.
> 
> Matt
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: N Forbes
> To: [email-masked]
> Sent: 7/24/01 10:44 PM
> Subject: Re: [lro] Not sure what I do'ed.
> 
> Note: The Mailman has replaced Majordomo
>         for list operations go to http://koan.team.net/mailman/index
>         - Cheers, Bill
> Matt, I don't suppose the transfer case could have pooped into neutral?
> 
> Niall Forbes
> 66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
> Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
> The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm
> 
> "See the happy moron,
> He doesn't give a damn.
> I wish I were a moron.
> My God! Perhaps I am!"
> --author unknown
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
> http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> 
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 10
Subject: Re: [lro] looking for floor panels
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 01 07:31:09 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> If anyone has an extra set or just a passenger side floor 
>panel they can spare, please contact me.

I would imagine either Wise Owl in BC Canada ir Finder MH in  Oregon 
might have them.  Links to the companies are in www.overlander.net

Alternativly couldn't you just get some sheet aluminum from your local 
metal shop, use your old ones for patterns and cut new floor sections out?

TeriAnn         
                      http://www.overlander.net

  The world's most complete set of links connecting Rover 4X4 owners
  with Rover parts, service, accessory & sales companies world wide.

--__--__--

Message: 11
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 16:31:53 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
Organization: AfricanAdrenalin Safaris
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] looking for floor panels
Reply-To: [email-masked]

"Tackley, John" wrote:

> Why not get some diamond plate from your local metal supplier (...or get a
> full-size pickup tailgate protector made of diamond plate aluminium, if
> cheaper) and use your old panels as templates for the new ones.  This is a
> nice upgrade...unless you're a purist for originality...

Yeah, you might want to 'tread' carefully here. Wouldn't want to have to
unsub from this list ;-{)}

Regards

Paul (geddit? 'tread'... Oh, I slay myself) Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

--__--__--

Message: 12
From: "Simon J. Harding" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] looking for floor panels
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 08:23:16 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

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Yeah, but its the cutting part....  Maybe I'll have a bunch of sets cut =
at the same time out of 3/16th au and sell em as heavy duty indutrial =
strength floor panels.  Maybe I'll even have em chromed.  I'm thinking =
cheapest alternative here, and had hoped someone with a junk rover might =
have a set for cheapski.  Faint hope I guess.  So I'll see which appears =
cheaper:  repair or  cutting a new one from sheet au.

-----Original Message-----
From:	TeriAnn Wakeman [SMTP:[email-masked]]
Sent:	Wednesday, July 25, 2001 7:31 AM
To:	[email-masked]
Subject:	Re: [lro] looking for floor panels

Note: The Mailman has replaced Majordomo
	for list operations go to http://koan.team.net/mailman/index
	- Cheers, Bill
> If anyone has an extra set or just a passenger side floor=20
>panel they can spare, please contact me.

I would imagine either Wise Owl in BC Canada ir Finder MH in  Oregon=20
might have them.  Links to the companies are in www.overlander.net

Alternativly couldn't you just get some sheet aluminum from your local=20
metal shop, use your old ones for patterns and cut new floor sections =
out?

=20
TeriAnn        =20
                      http://www.overlander.net

  The world's most complete set of links connecting Rover 4X4 owners
  with Rover parts, service, accessory & sales companies world wide.

_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

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Message: 13
From: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 11:44:59 EDT
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] 8th Annual SAE Event
Reply-To: [email-masked]

The Southern Land Rover Society would like to invite ALL Rover owners to our 
upcoming event.  Here are some of the brief details of the event. 
Event: the 8th Annual Southern Appalachian Expedition
When: September 14-16, 2001
Where: Menlo, Georgia (about an hour and a half northwest of Atlanta)
Event to include: Trail rides throughout the weekend, day and night, an 
offroad driving competition, offroad instruction, a raffle, an auction, and a 
catered supper.  there are also alot of other things going on at the event.  
The SAE has always been a camping affair, however there are hotels and such 
in the area.  We have over 30 sponsors for the event and they are sending 
alot of great products and gift certificates.  
We would like to double last year's 125 participants, and it looks as though 
we will be able to achieve our goal.  
For all the details of the event as well as Registration, please visit our 
website at: 
www.solaros.com
Go to the events calendar page then click on the 8th annual SAE. 
Thanks, and we hope to see everyone there.   Norman  

--__--__--

Message: 14
Subject: RE: [lro] looking for floor panels
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 01 08:46:50 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Maybe I'll have a bunch of sets cut at 
>the same time out of 3/16th au and sell em as heavy duty indutrial 
>strength floor panels.  Maybe I'll even have em chromed.  I'm thinking 
>cheapest alternative here, and had hoped someone with a junk rover might 
>have a set for cheapski.  Faint hope I guess.  So I'll see which appears 
>cheaper:  repair or  cutting a new one from sheet au.

Golly I never thought of making floor panels out of a 3/16th panel of 
gold.  You must have access to either real cheap gold or real expensive 
used LR floor panels for gold to be the cheap alternative.

Chromed gold sheets!  what will people think of next!

Zowie!

I'll happily trade you my good condition floor panels fora set of your 
gold ones

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

--__--__--

Message: 15
Subject: Re: [lro] Another day in paradise, or, check your brakes...
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 01 08:51:01 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>> Not really. Landrover parking brakes are very effective with a little
>> maintenance.
>> John and Muddy
>
>Are they?

Yep.  I suffered brake failure twice from pin hole rust throughs on the 
original steel lines until I got around to replacing all the lines with 
new ones.

Both times the hand brake stopped me and allowed me to get home (local 
failures luckally).

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

--__--__--

Message: 16
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: [lro] looking for floor panels
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 12:02:22 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

they'd be swell for heat reflection....

-----Original Message-----
From: TeriAnn Wakeman [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 11:47 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: [lro] looking for floor panels

Note: The Mailman has replaced Majordomo
	for list operations go to http://koan.team.net/mailman/index
	- Cheers, Bill
> Maybe I'll have a bunch of sets cut at 
>the same time out of 3/16th au and sell em as heavy duty indutrial 
>strength floor panels.  Maybe I'll even have em chromed.  I'm thinking 
>cheapest alternative here, and had hoped someone with a junk rover might 
>have a set for cheapski.  Faint hope I guess.  So I'll see which appears 
>cheaper:  repair or  cutting a new one from sheet au.

Golly I never thought of making floor panels out of a 3/16th panel of 
gold.  You must have access to either real cheap gold or real expensive 
used LR floor panels for gold to be the cheap alternative.

Chromed gold sheets!  what will people think of next!

Zowie!

I'll happily trade you my good condition floor panels fora set of your 
gold ones

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 17
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 11:05:46 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] looking for floor panels
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Wed, 25 Jul 2001, Simon J. Harding wrote:

:Yeah, but its the cutting part....  Maybe I'll have a bunch of sets cut
:at the same time out of 3/16th au and sell em as heavy duty indutrial
:strength floor panels.  Maybe I'll even have em chromed.  I'm thinking
:cheapest alternative here, and had hoped someone with a junk rover
:might have a set for cheapski.  Faint hope I guess.  So I'll see which
:appears cheaper: repair or cutting a new one from sheet au.
:

Well, if you're cutting them out of sheet Au, I'd have thought labor would
be the cheap part.  If on the other hand, you cut them out of sheet Al, you
can cut them yourself.  Get a sheet a bit larger than the panel your going
to replace, put the old one on top, and mark the outline with a sharpie.
Then use a saw to cut them out.  This is not an application with terribly
tight tolerences.

-- 
[email-masked]

--__--__--

Message: 18
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 09:10:01 -0700
Subject: [lro] Re: Series Paint
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 17:25:21 -0400
From: "KURT W. KRAUSS" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Series Paint
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>I have a 1973 SIII.  It is being repainted because it had been before,
paint was cracked here and there and the "patina" was lousy.
My question is, is the red called Poppy Red for the NAS '73's?  Also,
are the wheels/top  limestone?

The red used in 1973 was called "Poppy Red."  The "white" used on the 
tops and wheels at that time was actually the color Rover called "Limestone."  
They used this color on tops, wheels, and on some models, upper side panels 
(with and without windows).  They also painted entire vehicles Limestone.  My 
'73 SIII-88 was painted this way (and still is, with the original paint).  Engines 
in 1973 were painted "Robins Egg Blue," which is sort of a bluish-green color.  To 
the best of my recollection, the choice of colors was pretty limited in 1973 in the 
US.  Poppy Red, Marine Blue, Limestone, and light green (don't remember its 
official name) were the only colors I recall being called out in the sales brochures 
at that time.

Other colors that have been available from the factory at different times have been 
Desert Tan (more brown in it than Limestone), gray, a darker blue than the Marine 
Blue (unless the darker blue was Marine blue and the lighter blue that was available in 
1973 was called something else), and Bronze Green (I believe that's the name of the nice, 
dark, olive-green used on many Series Is and some other models).  There are probably 
some colors I've missed.  Series Land Rovers were also painted in specialty colors for 
various purposes- bright yellow for the AA, dark red for fire trucks, and so on.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

--__--__--

Message: 19
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 11:35:56 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] looking for floor panels
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Wed, 25 Jul 2001, Matt Peckham wrote:

:From: TeriAnn Wakeman [mailto:[email-masked]]
:
::Golly I never thought of making floor panels out of a 3/16th panel of
::gold.  You must have access to either real cheap gold or real expensive
::used LR floor panels for gold to be the cheap alternative.
::
::Chromed gold sheets!  what will people think of next!
:
:
:They'd be swell for heat reflection....

My back of the envelope suggests they would weigh about 200 kg.  That's
a bit more than $1.75 million.

-- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

--__--__--

Message: 20
From: "Bill Fishel" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] looking for floor panels
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 00:54:50 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> My back of the envelope suggests they would weigh about 200 kg.  That's
> a bit more than $1.75 million.
> 
> -- 
> [email-masked]
> Bipedalism is only a fad.

But think of the status... oh wait, most of us would figure some village
lost their idiot.

Seriously though, it would probably cost more in shipping for a set of
floor panels than aquiring Al sheets to make your own.

Bill Fishel

--__--__--

Message: 21
To: [email-masked]
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 13:07:02 -0400
Subject: [lro] Re: Floor panels:
Reply-To: [email-masked]

As another suggestion for materials, there are a lot of computers that have
very nice, heavyish-gauge aluminum panels for tops and sides. One of my
favorite sources of supply was old Sun Microsystems tower panels, which
were of very heavy-gauge aluminum and steel.

Made many gadets from such things for no money...just a little time and
pleasant labour. Stuff solders nice too with the zinc rods (Lumiweld).

               ajr

--__--__--

Message: 22
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 10:44:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jerrod <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] looking for floor panels
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Do you think that would be thick enough for steering
guards and feul tank guards?

Peace,
Jerrod
'89RR

> Road sign and a jigsaw.....enough said. Better,
> thicker aluminum, easy to
> work, last forever, and cheap if you go to your
> local DPW barn with a
> six-pack or some doughnuts and a friendly attitude.
> 
>                     ajr
> 
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

__________________________________________________
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--__--__--

Message: 23
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 14:10:07 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Re: Series Paint
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Light green = Pastel Green

>>> [email-masked] 07/25/01 12:10PM >>>
Note: The Mailman has replaced Majordomo
	for list operations go to http://koan.team.net/mailman/index 
	- Cheers, Bill
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 17:25:21 -0400
From: "KURT W. KRAUSS" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Series Paint
Reply-To: [email-masked] 

>I have a 1973 SIII.  It is being repainted because it had been before,
paint was cracked here and there and the "patina" was lousy.
My question is, is the red called Poppy Red for the NAS '73's?  Also,
are the wheels/top  limestone?

The red used in 1973 was called "Poppy Red."  The "white" used on the 
tops and wheels at that time was actually the color Rover called "Limestone."  
They used this color on tops, wheels, and on some models, upper side panels 
(with and without windows).  They also painted entire vehicles Limestone.  My 
'73 SIII-88 was painted this way (and still is, with the original paint).  Engines 
in 1973 were painted "Robins Egg Blue," which is sort of a bluish-green color.  To 
the best of my recollection, the choice of colors was pretty limited in 1973 in the 
US.  Poppy Red, Marine Blue, Limestone, and light green (don't remember its 
official name) were the only colors I recall being called out in the sales brochures 
at that time.

Other colors that have been available from the factory at different times have been 
Desert Tan (more brown in it than Limestone), gray, a darker blue than the Marine 
Blue (unless the darker blue was Marine blue and the lighter blue that was available in 
1973 was called something else), and Bronze Green (I believe that's the name of the nice, 
dark, olive-green used on many Series Is and some other models).  There are probably 
some colors I've missed.  Series Land Rovers were also painted in specialty colors for 
various purposes- bright yellow for the AA, dark red for fire trucks, and so on.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked] 
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 24
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 14:52:00 -0400
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] U-joint question
Reply-To: [email-masked]

A question. I've never changed u-joints before. The old joints in my 
driveshaft were quite loose - the ends of the shaft could flop around. The 
new ones will move without any binding, but the entire joint definitely 
moves with more resistance. The new parts are NAPA 153 (if I read the box 
correctly), a Precision 369 equivalent. This is listed in the alternate 
parts list as appropriate for a 1967. Is something wrong or is this normal?

My on-throttle vibration has not gone away. The rear driveshaft has new 
(stiff) u-joints, a slip joint that slips but is not worn and yokes set at 
90 degrees to each other. The front driveshaft, with a very worn slip 
joint, is currently removed. Ideas? This vibration showed up after 3-leaf 
parabolic spring install and is present whenever the truck is under power.

Keith Tanner
------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

--__--__--

Message: 25
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] looking for floor panels
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 15:22:26 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Or pick up a couple of "broken" road signs

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Tackley, John [SMTP:[email-masked]]
> Sent:	Wednesday, July 25, 2001 10:24 AM
> To:	[email-masked]'
> Subject:	RE: [lro] looking for floor panels
> 
> Note: The Mailman has replaced Majordomo
> 	for list operations go to http://koan.team.net/mailman/index
> 	- Cheers, Bill
> Why not get some diamond plate from your local metal supplier (...or get a
> full-size pickup tailgate protector made of diamond plate aluminium, if
> cheaper) and use your old panels as templates for the new ones.  This is a
> nice upgrade...unless you're a purist for originality...
> 
> JT/ric
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 26
Subject: RE: [lro] looking for floor panels
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 01 11:38:13 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>My back of the envelope suggests they would weigh about 200 kg.  That's
>a bit more than $1.75 million.

Just remember  I was the first to offer to trade my genuine floor panels 
for his gold ones.

I might actually be persuaded to throw in the Whole Green Rover for that 
trade.

TeriAnn Near Santa Cruz, California

My old car: 1960 Land Rover 109 owned since 1978
My new car: 1961 Triumph TR3A owned since 1986
  "Who could ask for anything more"

--__--__--

Message: 27
From: "Rich Williams II" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] looking for floor panels
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 13:07:10 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Reading these floor panel posts ...

I took the freight elevator down to my car in my office building's parking
garage and something caught my eye that I wanted to remember later.  Riding
back up to my office I am looking at the floor of the freight elevator.
Worn "diamond plate"!  And fastened with Phillips head screws!  There is
enough for several sets of floor panels and a few wing tops!

Well, maybe if I was a stupid 16 year old, it would make a great prank!

Rich
'60 SII 109 SW

--__--__--

Message: 28
From: "Simon J. Harding" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] looking for floor panels
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 13:11:26 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

------ =_NextPart_000_01C1150B.50667500
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Ok, So I didn't memorize the periodic table of the elements.  I confess, I'm guilty.

-----Original Message-----
From:	TeriAnn Wakeman [SMTP:[email-masked]]
Sent:	Wednesday, July 25, 2001 11:38 AM
To:	[email-masked]
Subject:	RE: [lro] looking for floor panels

Note: The Mailman has replaced Majordomo
	for list operations go to http://koan.team.net/mailman/index
	- Cheers, Bill
>My back of the envelope suggests they would weigh about 200 kg.  That's
>a bit more than $1.75 million.

Just remember  I was the first to offer to trade my genuine floor panels 
for his gold ones.

I might actually be persuaded to throw in the Whole Green Rover for that 
trade.

TeriAnn Near Santa Cruz, California

My old car: 1960 Land Rover 109 owned since 1978
My new car: 1961 Triumph TR3A owned since 1986
  "Who could ask for anything more"

_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

------ =_NextPart_000_01C1150B.50667500
Content-Type: application/ms-tnef
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64

------ =_NextPart_000_01C1150B.50667500--

--__--__--

Message: 29
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 14:51:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: joe mulqueen <[email-masked]>
To: LRO <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Solved - Clutch Hydraulic Failure
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Note: this cyl only had about 8K miles on it.

I tore it down (late style with integral reservoir)
and noted the piston had worn severely into the side
of the bore.  All the black sludge and oil was
apparently due to finely ground up aluminum. 
I believe the cause was due to a misaligned pushrod. 
I don't think it was caused by the often sloppy pedal
to pushrod cross-pin attachment because that area was
previously rebuilt (thick washers welded in & holes
resized to orig, plus new cross pin and sleeve).   
What I discovered were 2 issues with the attachment of
the cylinder to the pedal tower bracket.  First, the
bolt holes (in the bracket) are vertically slotted. 
Next, the large hole in the bracket is greater than
the mating diameter of the cyl (near the giant dust
boot).  These two items mean that the master cylinder
position can be varied relative to the axial position
of  the pushrod.  Carefully inspecting the fastener
witness marks on the bracket shows that the cylinder
was sitting low (probably resting under its own
weight) while I originally tightened it.  The wear
pattern makes sense.  Lesson learned…….

Joe Mulqueen

> Hello,
> After two years, my clutch hydraulic system seems to
> have failed somewhere.   The pedal felt different
> after being two months out of service (garaged)
> while
> the truck underwent a tranny, clutch (and linkage),
> flywheel, handbrake, steering relay,  water pump and
> timing cover overhaul.  I tried bleeding and noted
> the
> fluid is thoroughly black.  I'm also getting bubbles
> even when I carefully monitor the small integral
> reservoir level (3-4 pumps and then top off). My
> brake
> fluid (which was installed 2 years ago along with my
> clutch hydraulics is still clear.  Either my Clutch
> master cyl or/and the slave cyl rubber has
> apparently
> rotted.  I have used fresh Castrol and there was
> never
> any water contamination.  Anyone else ever have this
> type problem?
> 
> Thanks again!
> Joe Mulqueen
> '67 SIIA

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/

--__--__--

Message: 30
From: [email-masked]
To: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 09:23:20 +1000
Subject: [lro] Re: stopping using the hand brake
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I know in the USA the 'instrument' is called an 'emergency brake' - but I
believe that everywhere else in the world it is referred to as a 'hand brake' or
'parking brake' with the emphasis on PARKING.  It is mechanically operated, even
though the wheel brakes are hydraulic, so that it can be applied for long
periods of time - ie when parking - when these systems were develloped hudraulic
systems had the proensity to leak when under pressure so if your 'parking' brake
used such a system you were likely to find the vehicle at the bottom of the hill
in the morning :-)

I find the discussion quite interesting, that goes along the lines of -' you
must fix up this brake (that works on only one wheel) so tha twhen the real
brakes (that work on all 4 wheels) don't work, because one is too
cheap/lazy/incometent/etc/etc to fix them properly, mean the 3 tonne vehicle is
likely to kill someone, there is a chance of perhaps slowing down enough to just
miss, as long as nothing else is in the way, we have plenty of space and we've
practised the button thing'
:-)    :-)    (or perhaps it should be :-(  :-(    )

Richard

--__--__--

Message: 31
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked] '" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] looking for floor panels
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 20:58:44 -0400
Reply-To: [email-masked]

 Maybe now is the time to suggest that the worn plate on the elevator floor
is a safety hazard and should be replaced before the company is prosecuted.

From: Rich Williams II

I am looking at the floor of the freight elevator.
Worn "diamond plate"!  And fastened with Phillips head screws!  There is
enough for several sets of floor panels and a few wing tops!

--__--__--

Message: 32
From: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 21:01:10 EDT
Subject: Re: [lro] looking for floor panels
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 7/25/01 10:35:06 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

<< Road sign and a jigsaw.....enough said.  >>

Here we go again.............! ;-)

Ed Bailey
66 S2A SWB (Millennium Falcon)
Somewhere in East Tennessee

--__--__--

Message: 33
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 22:22:46 -0400
From: Winn Bearden <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] looking for floor panels
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Steve Johnson is getting someone to punch out some plates.  I think he's got
some for sale.

"Tackley, John" wrote:

> Note: The Mailman has replaced Majordomo
>         for list operations go to http://koan.team.net/mailman/index
>         - Cheers, Bill
> Why not get some diamond plate from your local metal supplier (...or get a
> full-size pickup tailgate protector made of diamond plate aluminium, if
> cheaper) and use your old panels as templates for the new ones.  This is a
> nice upgrade...unless you're a purist for originality...
>
> JT/ric
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--
Winn Bearden          19XX SIIa/SIII/RR 100" Hybrid
P.O. Box 464          1967 NADA 109" SW (in pieces)
Americus, GA 31709    1996 4.0 SE

--__--__--

Message: 34
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 21:42:31 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] looking for floor panels
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I always thought lexan floor panels would be cool although they would
get scratched in no time.

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 35
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: Running problem (was: Re: [lro] gps)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 21:03:51 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>
> :How much should the pressure be for the DVG?
>
> Not a whole lot;  too much pressure will cause it flood.  How's your carb
> jetted?  Mine had to be jetted a whole lot richer than people recommened
to
> run well at speed.  Similar setup to yours -- 9 to 1 head, 2.5 cam,
pierce,
> headers 32/36 DGV.

you remember what size jets?
thx
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 36
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] RE: Peter's Running problem...
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 21:15:44 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Drill 2 holes in your exhaust pipe, after the muffler/silencer, one on
top,
> one on bottom.  Use a drill bit size that will allow a 20 penny nail to
drop
> in from the top...now, drop one 20 penny nail in and take that hill again,
> measuring performance carefully. If you see improvement, you have
increased
> torque slightly due to the restriction in exhaust flow.  Now drill 2 more
> holes and add another nail...repeat by adding nails until performance
drops
> off...then remove one nail.  You have now "tuned your exhaust" for max
> torque.

very interesting.  Guess what your saying is that I opened the exhaust up
too much.
Would this explain why there is so much travel with the throttle plates with
out any response?
This happens on the flats and down hills.  No difference between full open
and 80%  open.
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 37
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 23:52:34 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: Running problem (was: Re: [lro] gps)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Wed, 25 Jul 2001, Hope Peter wrote:

:Note: The Mailman has replaced Majordomo
:	for list operations go to http://koan.team.net/mailman/index
:	- Cheers, Bill
:>
:> :How much should the pressure be for the DVG?
:>
:> Not a whole lot;  too much pressure will cause it flood.  How's your carb
:> jetted?  Mine had to be jetted a whole lot richer than people recommened
:to
:> run well at speed.  Similar setup to yours -- 9 to 1 head, 2.5 cam,
:pierce,
:> headers 32/36 DGV.
:
:you remember what size jets?

Nope.  Something like 170 main, 185 secondary, I think.  I may be suffering
from heat stroke, though.  Also, make sure the linkage really is doing what
you think it is.  I had problems with things bending, and then the throttle
wouldn't actually cause any changes for some fraction of the stroke.

-- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

--__--__--

Message: 38
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 00:05:01 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: stopping using the hand brake
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Thu, 26 Jul 2001 [email-masked] wrote:

:Note: The Mailman has replaced Majordomo
:	for list operations go to http://koan.team.net/mailman/index
:	- Cheers, Bill
:
:
:I know in the USA the 'instrument' is called an 'emergency brake' - but I
:believe that everywhere else in the world it is referred to as a 'hand brake' or
:'parking brake' with the emphasis on PARKING.  It is mechanically operated, even
:though the wheel brakes are hydraulic, so that it can be applied for long
:periods of time - ie when parking - when these systems were develloped hudraulic
:systems had the proensity to leak when under pressure so if your 'parking' brake
:used such a system you were likely to find the vehicle at the bottom of the hill
:in the morning :-)
:
:
:I find the discussion quite interesting, that goes along the lines of -' you
:must fix up this brake (that works on only one wheel) so tha twhen the real

The parking brake works on at least two wheels, all four if the truck is in
four-wheel drive.

:brakes (that work on all 4 wheels) don't work, because one is too
:cheap/lazy/incometent/etc/etc to fix them properly, mean the 3 tonne
:vehicle is likely to kill someone, there is a chance of perhaps slowing
:down enough to just miss, as long as nothing else is in the way, we
:have plenty of space and we've practised the button thing'

Land-Rovers, imported to the US, didn't get a dual circuit braking system
until 1968.  I understand that they were made with single circuits later
than that in other markets.  This means that any hydraulic failure means you
have foot brakes, as opposed to a modern dual-circuit system where a single
failure should effect only half of htem.  I've had two complete brake
failures in such Land-Rovers.  The first was caused by something cutting the
front left flex-line while off-roading.  I didn't get a chance to see if the
hand brake would have stopped me, as I was comming backwards down a hill,
and I was much more concerned about not getting sideways.  The second was
caused by a failure of the junction where the rear flex line connects to the
hard pipe on the axle.  It wasn't leaking at all before the failure;  I was
under the truck putting oil in the rear diff the day before, and is my
habit, I look at all of the things that are convient to inspect.  I would
have noticed brake fluid at that joint.  It had served fine for the 8 or 9
thousand miles I had had the truck.  You can accuse me of neglecting
maintance on many things.  My brakes are not one.

-- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

--__--__--

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End of LRO Digest