Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #442

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 12:12:47 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *  Friday, July 6 2001  Volume 01 : Number 442

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 16:38:47 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: Real offoraders (was LRO: Dodge front ends)

I chuck in whatever carpet is spare at the time. Currently a rather fetching
shade of salmon pink bathroom carpet.
 Throw it away after a coupla months...
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2001 4:28 PM
Subject: Re: Real offoraders (was LRO: Dodge front ends)

> Ian Stuart wrote:
>
> > The carpetting issue has not bearing on the vehicles ability, or
> > strength, in the rough.
>
> Agreed. I, for one carpet all my vehicles with a layer of insertion
> rubber, topped with a 100% synthetic charcoal carpet (the stuff they use
> in boats, it doesn't rot being 100% fake, and can be immersed in water
> forever). Serves as sound-deadening and can also be washed out
> regularly.
>
> Regards
>
> Paul Oxley
> AfricanAdrenalin.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2001 19:21:19 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: UK car index marks (long)

I've got it if you need it.  Email me and I'll dig it out and send it along.

How much coffee do you need to tide you over till September??  Already 
getting some ripe beans so should be picking in August.  Ain't it wonderful 
when it rains.

Aloha
Peter O.

Hiya Peter,
I thought I sent it to the list before Christmas?  anyhow, here it is:

Suffix letters:
A.. Jan 63 - Dec 63
B.. Jan 64 - Dec 64
C.. Jan 65 - Dec 65
D.. Jan 66 - Dec 66
E.. Jan 67 - Jul 67
F.. Aug 67 - Jul 68
G.. Aug 68 - Jul 69
H..Aug 69 - Jul 70
J.. Aug 70 - Jul 71
K.. Aug 71 - Jul 72
L.. Aug 72 - Jul 73
M.. Aug 73 - Jul 74
N.. Aug 74 - Jul 75
P.. Aug 75 - Jul 76
R.. Aug 76 - Jul 77
S.. Aug 77 - Jul 78
T.. Aug 78 - Jul 79
V.. Aug 79 - Jul 80
W.. Aug 80 - Jul 81
X.. Aug 81 - Jul 82
Y.. Aug 82 - Jul 83

Prefix letters:
A.. Aug 83 - Jul 84
B.. Aug 84 - Jul 85
C.. Aug 85 - Jul 86
D., Aug 86 - Jul 87
E.. Aug 87 - Jul 88
F.. Aug 88 - Jul 89
G.. Aug 89 - Jul 90
H.. Aug 90 - Jul 91
J.. Aug 91 - Jul 92
K.. Aug 92 - Jul 93
L.. Aug 93 - Jul 94
M.. Aug 94 - Jul 95
N.. Aug 95 - Jul 96
P.. Aug 96 - Jul 97
R.. Aug 97 - Jul 98
S.. Aug 98 - Jul 99

it got silly with a temp system after July 99 with a new system starting 
this year. When I fully understand it I'll do an add-on...

From: Peter Ogilvie <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 8:02 PM
Subject: Secret year decoder

S.. Aug 98 - April 99
T.. March 99 - July 99
V.. August 1999 - April 2000
W.. March 2000 - August 2000
X.. September 2000 - February 2001

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 16:30:07 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: Real offoraders (was LRO: Dodge front ends)

Ian writes: >>>the Range Rovers and
> Discoverys are very competent vehicles off-road... Not as good as a
> D90, but better than a D110, <<<

uh, ho, that's fighting talk Ian, you going to Wooler in November? wanna
bet????
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 02:09:36 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Re: video reviews

In a message dated 7/5/2001 10:11:01 PM US Mountain Standard Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> 
>  ALUMINUM BODY REPAIR VIDEO
>    shows step-by-step procedures for straightening out basic
>    damage in the aluminum body.  covers oxy/acetylene welding
>    as well as the use of common hand tools that aid in the
>    repair process.  explains why certain procedures work better
>    and how the metal reacts to different techniques.  a 
>    great reference source. vhs 63 minutes.
>    31122 aluminum body repair video.. $29.99
>    videos are not refundable, if defective, they will be replaced

I've tried to buy this tape from Eastwood for the last several months.  They 
have yet to update their web site or catalog.  They claim it isn't available 
anymore yet continue to list it(?!)  If anyone can find it I'd like to buy a 
copy of it.  I have three spare rear tubs for S1 80s and would like to get 
them into shape and back in to circulation so someone can further their 
restoration along.  Learning how to beat the alloy panels back into shape 
would come in handy on general principal anyway.  Let's face it ... "Land 
Rovers" and "minor assembly required" go hand in hand.

>  
>  WORK ALUMINUM BY HAND
>    metalworking expert ron covell shows you how to fabricate
>    compound curves on aluminum with relatively modest equipment.
>    a great video for anyone interested in fabricating their own
>    panels.  hand shrinker, sandbag and mallet and welding 
>    techniques are demonstrated.  vhs.  104 min.
>    28081 shaping aluminum with hand tools video;  $39.99
>  
>  

I did get this video and it is helpful WRT annealing / forming alloy panels.  
Ron Covell shows you how to transform a piece of flat sheet stock into a nose 
cone for a quarter midget racer.  Some info is applicable to collision (tree 
/ rock) repair, but the first tape would be better for practical applications 
and short cuts.  Working from flat stock is a little different from repairing 
a formed, manufactured assembly.  

Bob Sharp
Tucson, AZ
The slumbering herd on the Rover Ranch:
52 Series I 80"
53 Series I 80"
60 Series II 88"
63 Series IIa 88"
71 Series IIa 109"
96 Discovery Series I 

"Why is it that every project you complete on a Land Rover results in 
knowledge and skills you hope you never need to use again?"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 20:53:25 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: UK car index marks (long)

> The long one? Towards the bottom..... : )
>
> http://www.fourfold.org/RoverWeb/lro/20010413
>
That was the place of registration he posted.  What I am looking for is the
date of registration information.
TIA
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 20:56:09 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: UK car index marks (long)

> I've got it if you need it.  Email me and I'll dig it out and send it
along.
>
> How much coffee do you need to tide you over till September??  Already
> getting some ripe beans so should be picking in August.  Ain't it
wonderful
> when it rains.
> Aloha
> Peter O.

That's it.  Thanks for the date codes.
Coffee..till September, well 2 pounds should work
Pete H.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 08:11:43 +0100
From: Ian Stuart <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Junkyard Wars

On Thursday 05 July 2001 20:15, Mike Rogers wrote:
> Oh for a new series of Junkyard wars, or Scrapheap challenge as the
> UK version was named.
>
> Does anyone remember the boat with the Land Rover diesel engine, what
> a scream.
It was amazingly fast, but then it turned the left, with an outrigger 
only on the right.... and over it went.

That was a real corker!

(who was the dizzy lassie again? the one in the Art Attack's team)

- -- 
           --==**==--
Ian Stuart - EDINA, DataLibrary, University computing services.
- ---------------------------------
A man depriving some village, somewhere, of a first-class idiot
- ---------------------------------
http://lucas.ucs.ed.ac.uk/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 08:15:40 +0100
From: Ian Stuart <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: Real offoraders (was LRO: Dodge front ends)

On Thursday 05 July 2001 16:30, Frank Elson wrote:
> Ian writes: >>>the Range Rovers and
>
> > Discoverys are very competent vehicles off-road... Not as good as a
> > D90, but better than a D110, <<<
>
> uh, ho, that's fighting talk Ian, you going to Wooler in November?
> wanna bet????
Well now... I may just do that!

(If I can get the 80 finished & legal, and I can persuade David 
Macgregor to slow down on the way down....)
- -- 
           --==**==--
Ian Stuart - EDINA, DataLibrary, University computing services.
- ---------------------------------
A man depriving some village, somewhere, of a first-class idiot
- ---------------------------------
http://lucas.ucs.ed.ac.uk/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 21:19:31 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO:  British Registration Codes

> Frank Elson sent a long list explaining the british reg codes.  Both the
> year of registration and county registered in.
> If people like I can gather the emails into one html and put on y web
site.
> Let me know,
> Pete

Got all of the data from Frank rounded up and placed onto
www.aloharovers.com, have a look at:
http://www.aloharovers.com/ukregcode.htm

Pete

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 08:44:36 +0100
From: Ian Stuart <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: British Registration Codes

On Wednesday 06 June 2001 08:19, Hope Peter wrote:
> > Frank Elson sent a long list explaining the british reg codes. 
> > Both the year of registration and county registered in.
> > If people like I can gather the emails into one html and put on y
> > web
Just a small point, contrary to something Frank said:

Garages are issues a block of registrations, as appropriate for their 
area.

What often happens, and happened when we bought my wifes New Beetle a 
couple of months ago, is that we looked through the list of available  
registrations and selected the number we liked the best.

The lists sent for general use excluded the "valuable" numbers: 1-25, 
88, 888, 666, 999, 100, etc... Also combinations that seem to make 
words/names: for example Y 45 TAN can be re-spaced as Y 4 5TAN (Y for 
Stan)

- -- 
           --==**==--
Ian Stuart - EDINA, DataLibrary, University computing services.
- ---------------------------------
A man depriving some village, somewhere, of a first-class idiot
- ---------------------------------
http://lucas.ucs.ed.ac.uk/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 04:01:35 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Pros and Cons: 1994 County SWB

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First of all, I plead ignorance - 3 weeks ago, I didn't even know what a Land 
Rover was.  Ok, ok - have your laugh but please read on!  I have an 
opportunity to purchase a 1994 County SWB from an aquaintance.  It is in need 
of repair/replacement of the rear hatch (handle area rusted and the handle 
fell off) and this was estimated to be a $1,000 replacement at the 
dealership.  I haven't actually looked at the hatch, so I can't comment 
further on the specific problem, except that it will not latch and is 
currently held closed with bungee cords.  Other than that, it is in decent 
shape and I can get it for a very reasonable price.  I have read some of the 
debate over the LWB model, and at least one person mentioned that the SWB 
models might not have as much trouble with the engine and suspension.  I am 
interested to hear some opinions on this model - both on its own merits and 
compared to any other models.  Also, I am wondering if anyone has had this 
same problem with the hatch, and whether a replacement can be found and 
replaced with significant savings compared to the dealer estimate.  If this 
isn't a suitable subject for the list, I apologize and off-list replies are 
welcome.  Thanks.  -  Gary

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>First of all, I plead ignorance - 3 weeks ago, I didn't even know what a Land 
<BR>Rover was. &nbsp;Ok, ok - have your laugh but please read on! &nbsp;I have an 
<BR>opportunity to purchase a 1994 County SWB from an aquaintance. &nbsp;It is in need 
<BR>of repair/replacement of the rear hatch (handle area rusted and the handle 
<BR>fell off) and this was estimated to be a $1,000 replacement at the 
<BR>dealership. &nbsp;I haven't actually looked at the hatch, so I can't comment 
<BR>further on the specific problem, except that it will not latch and is 
<BR>currently held closed with bungee cords. &nbsp;Other than that, it is in decent 
<BR>shape and I can get it for a very reasonable price. &nbsp;I have read some of the 
<BR>debate over the LWB model, and at least one person mentioned that the SWB 
<BR>models might not have as much trouble with the engine and suspension. &nbsp;I am 
<BR>interested to hear some opinions on this model - both on its own merits and 
<BR>compared to any other models. &nbsp;Also, I am wondering if anyone has had this 
<BR>same problem with the hatch, and whether a replacement can be found and 
<BR>replaced with significant savings compared to the dealer estimate. &nbsp;If this 
<BR>isn't a suitable subject for the list, I apologize and off-list replies are 
<BR>welcome. &nbsp;Thanks. &nbsp;- &nbsp;Gary</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_8.16c39acb.2876ca5f_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 09:54:19 +0100
From: "Andy Woodward" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Glow plugs and starting

Is it of greater long term benefit to teh engine to let it preheat for a 
long time before starting so it runs smoothly right from start, or to 
start it as soon as it'll catch without stalling again?

I.e can overuse of glowplugs be damaging to engine longevity?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 10:21:37 +0100
From: Ian Stuart <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Pros and Cons: 1994 County SWB

On Friday 06 July 2001 09:01, [email-masked] wrote:
> First of all, I plead ignorance - 3 weeks ago, I didn't even know
> what a Land Rover was.  Ok, ok - have your laugh but please read on! 
> I have an opportunity to purchase a 1994 County SWB from an
> aquaintance. 
Gary,

I'm guessing that this is a Range Rover, in which case there si a 
parallel list called the RR list (see 
http://www.land-rover.team.net/lro-info.html for the various lists, and 
the area's they cover)

By "Rear Hatch", I presume you mean the upper tail-gate - the glazed 
bit. This usually is best replaced as a whole section, but is only held 
in with 4 bolts (and a bit of wiring). If the upper tail-gate has gone, 
the lower is probably not far behind, so check it carefully.

Range Rovers are also prone to rust in the inner wings (mainly the 
fronts), and the sills. The wings are bolt in replacements, but the 
sills will need welded.

The differnece bewtween LWB & SWB range rover is not great, however I 
have no direct knowledge of either, so couldn't really comment on 
differences - though I'd hazard that the SWB is bettwe in the rough, 
but the LWB will soak up the bumps better at (highway) speed

Before you buy, check the chassis carefully: tap the main rails, 
listening for the muted ringing solid metal and not the wet thud of 
flaking metal; check the top of the rails, as this is where the mud and 
water lies; check the outriggers, as they are annoying to replace; 
check for leaks from the gearbox (main box, transfer box, and seeping 
past the hand-brake) Check for leaks in the engine (both on the sump, 
and the vanny between the V of the heads)

Drive it, and make sure that the center diff-lock engages and 
disengages.

Take someone with you, if you think you can...

- -- 
           --==**==--
Ian Stuart - EDINA, DataLibrary, University computing services.
- ---------------------------------
A man depriving some village, somewhere, of a first-class idiot
- ---------------------------------
http://lucas.ucs.ed.ac.uk/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 07:58:19 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Junkyard Wars

Ron added:

 Wonder how we could incorporate the "junkyard war" element into Land Rover
events like our upcoming Southern Land Rover Society (www.solaros.com)
Southern Appalachian Expedition?

Cheers!

RW

Yes, but how could you tell the scrap heap from the cars in some cases? 8*)

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 09:27:27 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Pros and Cons: 1994 County SWB

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Check out www.rangerovers.net   
all kinds of info regarding the rangie, including purchase and mechanical 
info.

Matt & "the Marlin Perkins Mobile"

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Check out www.rangerovers.net &nbsp;&nbsp;
<BR>all kinds of info regarding the rangie, including purchase and mechanical 
<BR>info.
<BR>
<BR>Matt &amp; "the Marlin Perkins Mobile"</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_53.84032c9.287716bf_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 09:02:00 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: Real offoraders (was LRO: Dodge front ends)

Jeff said:

>That's an awful lot of rear end hanging out there to
catch on.

Leave my mother-in-law out of this.

More the point that isn't being made here (or doesn't seem to be though my
Percoset-addled sensibilities) is simply this.

If you can't figure out how to get the bonnet open on your car and change a
set of sparkplugs (not said HAVEN't - said CAN'T) then the RRO list is a
great place. See previous comments about "take it to the dealer...".

If not, (see "I ain't no poseur") then chime in - it's a welcome relief
from 12-year-olds that have memorized the manual...

               ajr

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2001 09:37:34 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Soft-top question

Badger Coachworks is on Cape Cod and their tops are first rate.

>>> [email-masked] 07/05/01 10:08PM >>>
Hi there...

   Does anyone remember a company (or an individual) in California I believe
that made a softtop pick up top for series Rovers? I remember checking out
their web site years ago but have long since lost the link.

Thanks
Keith

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2001 09:42:56 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Junkyard Wars

True, but that is what would make it so much fun!

>>> [email-masked] 07/06/01 07:58AM >>>

Ron added:

 Wonder how we could incorporate the "junkyard war" element into Land Rover
events like our upcoming Southern Land Rover Society (www.solaros.com)
Southern Appalachian Expedition?

Cheers!

RW

Yes, but how could you tell the scrap heap from the cars in some cases? 8*)

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Jul 01 07:10:10 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Series driver height.

>>This really hurts me to admit this but I agree with C. Marin.
>
>Jeez, I'm not THAT bad, am I?

Naw, you just a sweet, if somewhat crotchety, curmudgeon who loves to be 
contrary.  If there were no counter points, the world would be a much 
duller place with way too narrow a view point.

You have a number of endearing traits.  It is just that I often do not 
agree with your observations.  But they do cause me to think about them 
and be less complacent about my own.

TeriAnn

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2001 07:57:57 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Pros and Cons: 1994 County SWB

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Look on ebay for a hatch, there was one on there last week for $300 or
so.  The main problem I see is that if the hatch has rusted, there will
be other rust.  Do you realise that Range Rovers are aluminum?  The body
can still look great.  Look under the rear lower tailgate hinge area for
rust and of course along the chassis/Frame as well..  It might be cheap
for a reason.  You should be paying about $11,000 for it or there
abouts.  Less tha this is cheap, but I am in California where they do
not rust and prices are higher.  Good luck with it, I have a 90 RR and
love it.
Kind regards,
Mark Pilkington

[email-masked] wrote:

> First of all, I plead ignorance - 3 weeks ago, I didn't even know what
> a Land
> Rover was.  Ok, ok - have your laugh but please read on!  I have an
> opportunity to purchase a 1994 County SWB from an aquaintance.  It is
> in need
> of repair/replacement of the rear hatch (handle area rusted and the
> handle
> fell off) and this was estimated to be a $1,000 replacement at the
> dealership.  I haven't actually looked at the hatch, so I can't
> comment
> further on the specific problem, except that it will not latch and is
> currently held closed with bungee cords.  Other than that, it is in
> decent
> shape and I can get it for a very reasonable price.  I have read some
> of the
> debate over the LWB model, and at least one person mentioned that the
> SWB
> models might not have as much trouble with the engine and suspension.
> I am
> interested to hear some opinions on this model - both on its own
> merits and
> compared to any other models.  Also, I am wondering if anyone has had
> this
> same problem with the hatch, and whether a replacement can be found
> and
> replaced with significant savings compared to the dealer estimate.  If
> this
> isn't a suitable subject for the list, I apologize and off-list
> replies are
> welcome.  Thanks.  -  Gary

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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
Look on ebay for a hatch, there was one on there last week for $300 or
so.&nbsp; The main problem I see is that if the hatch has rusted, there
will be other rust.&nbsp; Do you realise that Range Rovers are aluminum?&nbsp;
The body can still look great.&nbsp; Look under the rear lower tailgate
hinge area for rust and of course along the chassis/Frame as well..&nbsp;
It might be cheap for a reason.&nbsp; You should be paying about $11,000
for it or there abouts.&nbsp; Less tha this is cheap, but I am in California
where they do not rust and prices are higher.&nbsp; Good luck with it,
I have a 90 RR and love it.
<br>Kind regards,
<br>Mark Pilkington
<p>[email-masked] wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>First
of all, I plead ignorance - 3 weeks ago, I didn't even know what a Land</font></font>
<br><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>Rover was.&nbsp; Ok, ok
- - have your laugh but please read on!&nbsp; I have an</font></font>
<br><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>opportunity to purchase
a 1994 County SWB from an aquaintance.&nbsp; It is in need</font></font>
<br><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>of repair/replacement of
the rear hatch (handle area rusted and the handle</font></font>
<br><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>fell off) and this was estimated
to be a $1,000 replacement at the</font></font>
<br><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>dealership.&nbsp; I haven't
actually looked at the hatch, so I can't comment</font></font>
<br><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>further on the specific
problem, except that it will not latch and is</font></font>
<br><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>currently held closed with
bungee cords.&nbsp; Other than that, it is in decent</font></font>
<br><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>shape and I can get it for
a very reasonable price.&nbsp; I have read some of the</font></font>
<br><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>debate over the LWB model,
and at least one person mentioned that the SWB</font></font>
<br><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>models might not have as
much trouble with the engine and suspension.&nbsp; I am</font></font>
<br><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>interested to hear some
opinions on this model - both on its own merits and</font></font>
<br><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>compared to any other models.&nbsp;
Also, I am wondering if anyone has had this</font></font>
<br><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>same problem with the hatch,
and whether a replacement can be found and</font></font>
<br><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>replaced with significant
savings compared to the dealer estimate.&nbsp; If this</font></font>
<br><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>isn't a suitable subject
for the list, I apologize and off-list replies are</font></font>
<br><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>welcome.&nbsp; Thanks.&nbsp;
- -&nbsp; Gary</font></font></blockquote>
</html>

- --------------18C8391C300F68C7BB9FC803--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 10:14:50 -0500
From: "Carl Kinkade" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Pros and Cons: 1994 County SWB

I have a '95 RR LWB and love it, but be prepared to pay for fuel costs if
you drive it very much.  I average about 10 mpg.

Carl Kinkade, MCRP
ESRI Authorized Instructor
Kinkade GIS
Using GIS for Public Health and Community Analysis
Lincoln, NE 68502
work (402) 420-6882
fax (402) 420-6882
[email-masked]
- -----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf Of
Mark Pilkington
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2001 9:58 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Pros and Cons: 1994 County SWB

Look on ebay for a hatch, there was one on there last week for $300 or so.
The main problem I see is that if the hatch has rusted, there will be other
rust.  Do you realise that Range Rovers are aluminum?  The body can still
look great.  Look under the rear lower tailgate hinge area for rust and of
course along the chassis/Frame as well..  It might be cheap for a reason.
You should be paying about $11,000 for it or there abouts.  Less tha this is
cheap, but I am in California where they do not rust and prices are higher.
Good luck with it, I have a 90 RR and love it.
Kind regards,
Mark Pilkington
[email-masked] wrote:
First of all, I plead ignorance - 3 weeks ago, I didn't even know what a
Land
Rover was.  Ok, ok - have your laugh but please read on!  I have an
opportunity to purchase a 1994 County SWB from an aquaintance.  It is in
need
of repair/replacement of the rear hatch (handle area rusted and the handle
fell off) and this was estimated to be a $1,000 replacement at the
dealership.  I haven't actually looked at the hatch, so I can't comment
further on the specific problem, except that it will not latch and is
currently held closed with bungee cords.  Other than that, it is in decent
shape and I can get it for a very reasonable price.  I have read some of the
debate over the LWB model, and at least one person mentioned that the SWB
models might not have as much trouble with the engine and suspension.  I am
interested to hear some opinions on this model - both on its own merits and
compared to any other models.  Also, I am wondering if anyone has had this
same problem with the hatch, and whether a replacement can be found and
replaced with significant savings compared to the dealer estimate.  If this
isn't a suitable subject for the list, I apologize and off-list replies are
welcome.  Thanks.  -  Gary

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 05:40:56 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Rangie Fuel Milage (was:  1994 County SWB)

> I have a '95 RR LWB and love it, but be prepared to pay for fuel costs if
> you drive it very much.  I average about 10 mpg.
>

Is this typical milage?  Have a friend with a 95 but never asked.
Find it hard to believe that it gets milage so low.  Our full size GMC with
a 5.0l gets about 18 around the city and got 24mpg highway when we still
lived in a place that you could drive for more then 10 miles on a highway at
over 40mph.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 11:48:20 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Pros and Cons: 1994 County SWB

Carl K. wrote:

>I have a '95 RR LWB and love it, but be prepared to pay for fuel costs if
>you drive it very much.  I average about 10 mpg.

Y'know, I don't know if it's me or what - but how can you folks not get
under the bonnet and figure out what is going wrong when you get 10 MPG?

I get 12-14 local backroads and 18-19 on the highway in my 88 RR. 'Course,
I'm not driving @ 90 MPH either - steady 70-75 on the highway. 55 gets
better mioeage but I'm impatient...<grin>

How many miles are there on this beast and have you had a good look @ the
camshaft?

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 08:51:16 -0700 
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Midget tach wiring and steering box help needed...

Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2001 19:24:17 
From: "Chris Oles" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Midget tach wiring and steering box help needed...

>Also having some steering box leekage issues.  Haven't taken the wing off 
yet to diagnose but can a new seal or 2 stop the leekage?  There is some 
play in the steering of the beast and with a new relay installed and all 
ball joints checked over, I have to guess that oil had leaked out ...

There is an adjustment few Series owners seem to know about on the 
steering box.  Over time, the worm and roller assembly will wear, the 
result being more freeplay in the steering.  On the side of the steering 
box (the left hand side on my SIII), there is a small nut.  Turning this 
nut takes the slack out of the steering box.  A few years ago, the 
steering on my SIII was getting pretty sloppy.  I attributed this to the 
original steering relay, which had long since worn out its lower seal 
and would run out of lubricant pretty quickly (I now run STP in it which 
slows the seepage quite dramatically- the only good use for STP I've ever found).  
Anyway, in looking through the shop manual, I came across this freeplay 
adjustment.  You can get at it without having to remove the wing- in fact 
I seem to recall there is a small panel in the wheelwell that you can remove 
to access this adjustment nut.  Anyway, I turned this nut a little bit (don't go 
too far or you'll bind up the steering) and I had my nice "precise" steering 
back.  No more freeplay except for the little bit you're supposed to have.  So 
you might want to try the adjustment before removing the box.  This will not, 
of course, fix your leak,  so you may have to remove the box eventually 
anyway.  But for now, if you want to tighten up your steering, just use the 
adjustment nut that was put there for that purpose.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2001 11:59:06 -0400
From: Perrone Ford <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Rangie Fuel Milage (was:  1994 County SWB)

<html><head></head><body> &nbsp;&nbsp; Normal mileage is somewhere between 11-15 mpg
depending on how "in-tune" your motor is, and whether you are doing stop
and go driving.&nbsp; Since our engines develop such little torque at take off,
we are inclined to push harder on the pedal, and that brings down economy.&nbsp;
The engine is notoriously thirsty even though it gives such poor performance.&nbsp;
<br>
<br>
 &nbsp;&nbsp; This is one reason I advocate switching to the GM 350 engine should the
LR one go belly up instead of going to a 4.6&nbsp; I bought mine with the understanding
that I would get 12 mpg, but I have done better than that on most occasions.&nbsp;
The shape of the classic REALLY hurts it at speed.&nbsp; It provides almost a
square profile to the wind which is the least aerodynamic shape available.&nbsp;
Folks, lets not forget that we are talking about a vehicle designed in the
late 60s with an engine from the same period.&nbsp; Most engines then produced
far less mileage than what we get.<br>
<br>
- -Perrone<br>
<br>
Hope Peter wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:003e01c10632$0f7bfd40$593dfea9@504463">
  <blockquote type="cite"><pre wrap="">I have a '95 RR LWB and love it, but be prepared to pay for fuel costs if<br>you drive it very much.  I average about 10 mpg.<br><br></pre></blockquote>
    <pre wrap=""><!----><br>Is this typical milage?  Have a friend with a 95 but never asked.<br>Find it hard to believe that it gets mileage so low.  Our full size GMC with<br>a 5.0l gets about 18 around the city and got 24mpg highway when we still<br>lived in a place that you could drive for more then 10 miles on a highway at<br>over 40mph.<br>Pete</pre>
    </blockquote>
</body></html>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 11:05:40 -0500
From: "Carl Kinkade" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Rangie Fuel Milage (was:  1994 County SWB)

I have found that it is pretty consistent no matter what I am doing with it,
highway or city or off road.  The highway mileage may get up to 14 and if it
does I feel lucky (that must be with a strong tail wind).

I have definitely noticed a huge difference in our monthly gas bill since I
started driving the rover on a daily basis and not our BMW, which get about
30 mpg.

Carl

Carl Kinkade, MCRP
ESRI Authorized Instructor
Kinkade GIS
Using GIS for Public Health and Community Analysis
Lincoln, NE 68502
work (402) 420-6882
fax (402) 420-6882
[email-masked]

- -----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
Behalf Of Hope Peter
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2001 10:41 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Rangie Fuel Milage (was: 1994 County SWB)

> I have a '95 RR LWB and love it, but be prepared to pay for fuel costs if
> you drive it very much.  I average about 10 mpg.
>

Is this typical milage?  Have a friend with a 95 but never asked.
Find it hard to believe that it gets milage so low.  Our full size GMC with
a 5.0l gets about 18 around the city and got 24mpg highway when we still
lived in a place that you could drive for more then 10 miles on a highway at
over 40mph.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Jul 01 08:33:49 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: The LRO/RRO test

>If you can't figure out how to get the bonnet open on your car and change a
>set of sparkplugs (not said HAVEN't - said CAN'T) then the RRO list is a
>great place.

But you know we all need to start someplace.   The first time I tried to 
replace a set of spark plugs I was so clumsy with socket wrenches that I 
ended up breaking the top off a plug when the socket slipped out.  Then 
soon afterwards I was driving down the road and heard a big bang followed 
by rapid banging.  Ends up I did not tighten a plug enough and it came 
loose and popped put of the hole while I was driving.  I just kept trying 
and over time figured out how to successfully change a set of plugs.

I learned on a simple car.  It was intimidating enough before the days of 
SMOG equipment on a basic V8.  I think if I were to get a newish car I 
too would be afraid of what I saw under the bonnet.  

I once borrowed my bosses wife's Sunbird when I had both cars down for a 
week.  The starter motor went out.  SO I grabbed my tools to pull it and 
run down to my local auto parts store for a replacement.  You know it 
took me a long while to locate the starter motor among everything?  And 
when I did all I could see was a little edge of the motor.

Luckily the car was under extended warranty and the dealer fixed it for 
free.  One needs to remove the fuel injection manifold & its assorted 
hangers on to get to the starter motor.  I believe they said the book 
showed 4 hours for the operation.  That included setting up the fuel 
injection again.  SO much for the thought of removing two bolts, a couple 
of wires and pulling the motor.

I'm not sure I can handle much of anything on something newer than a '74. 
 I'm not about to blame someone with a new coiler that can not work in 
their engine bay.

I'd be a lot more apt to do any hierarchal judging based upon off road 
driving skills and experience including, knowledge and adherence to tread 
lightly principles, recovery and safety knowledge.  I always thought 
there should be merit badges for demonstrated off road skills.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.shadow-catcher.net      <- Photography for sale
http://www.overlander.net          <- Web directory for Land Rover 
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   <- My personal web site

"In the world of type A & type B drivers consider me a type C gypsy  
traveler.  Destinations are optional and not necessarily desirable."

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 11:11:09 -0500
From: "Carl Kinkade" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Pros and Cons: 1994 County SWB

I have had no time to look at it, work has been killing me.  As a matter of
fact, the pads have been squealing and I haven't had time to pull the wheels
off and look at them, even though I keep telling myself I need to do it.

Speaking of which, do ya'll have any suggestions for pads ('95 RR), I looked
in my Atlantic British catalog and noticed the prices are outrageous.  I
replaced the ones on our BMW and it costs me about $20 per set and they had
a lifetime warranty.

Carl Kinkade, MCRP
ESRI Authorized Instructor
Kinkade GIS
Using GIS for Public Health and Community Analysis
Lincoln, NE 68502
work (402) 420-6882
fax (402) 420-6882
[email-masked]

- -----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
Behalf Of Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2001 10:48 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: LRO: Pros and Cons: 1994 County SWB

Carl K. wrote:

>I have a '95 RR LWB and love it, but be prepared to pay for fuel costs if
>you drive it very much.  I average about 10 mpg.

Y'know, I don't know if it's me or what - but how can you folks not get
under the bonnet and figure out what is going wrong when you get 10 MPG?

I get 12-14 local backroads and 18-19 on the highway in my 88 RR. 'Course,
I'm not driving @ 90 MPH either - steady 70-75 on the highway. 55 gets
better mioeage but I'm impatient...<grin>

How many miles are there on this beast and have you had a good look @ the
camshaft?

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 11:12:34 -0500
From: "Carl Kinkade" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Pros and Cons: 1994 County SWB

Sorry I didn't answer the first question, it has 105,000 miles on it.

Carl Kinkade, MCRP
ESRI Authorized Instructor
Kinkade GIS
Using GIS for Public Health and Community Analysis
Lincoln, NE 68502
work (402) 420-6882
fax (402) 420-6882
[email-masked] 

- -----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
Behalf Of Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2001 10:48 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: LRO: Pros and Cons: 1994 County SWB

Carl K. wrote:

>I have a '95 RR LWB and love it, but be prepared to pay for fuel costs if
>you drive it very much.  I average about 10 mpg.

Y'know, I don't know if it's me or what - but how can you folks not get
under the bonnet and figure out what is going wrong when you get 10 MPG?

I get 12-14 local backroads and 18-19 on the highway in my 88 RR. 'Course,
I'm not driving @ 90 MPH either - steady 70-75 on the highway. 55 gets
better mioeage but I'm impatient...<grin>

How many miles are there on this beast and have you had a good look @ the
camshaft?

                    ajr

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #442
**********************************************