Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #417

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 09:45:33 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Thursday, June 21 2001 Volume 01 : Number 417

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 06:31:32 -0400
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: How Much Oil For An Oil Change ?

 I think I used 7.5 on my last fillup.  are you sure you put the drainage
plug back in?

I have the oil cooler too.

1974 Lightweight.

- -----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked]
To: [email-masked]
Sent: 6/19/01 8:32 PM
Subject: Re: LRO: How Much Oil For An Oil Change ?

Okay, dumb question but the manual for the Series III Lightweight says
11 1/2 
pints US and an extra 1 1/2 pints for the filter too. That's 13 pints or
6 
1/2 quarts. That only just makes the "L" on the dipstick. Am I missing 
something here? It does not look like enough. 
Thanks, 
Tony 

Anthony D. Miller & Co. 
~ The Tintype Artist ~ 
Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes 
    34 Perryfalls Place 
Baltimore, Maryland 21236 
           410-256-7442 
    www.tintype-artist.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:16:51 -0400
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Awlgrip, was More opinions sought

Go to the US Paint website www.uspaint.com and look at the options for
steel hulled boats under the Awlgrip line. They make an epoxy based
chromate primer that goes under their epoxy topcoats. If you want a
tough finish, it's the only way to go.
If you are doing it yourself, the caveat is to use a damn good stirrer,
since the primers have so much solids in them, they're like mud when
they come off the shelf. Keep lots of reducer on hand and wear a mask,
even if you are brushing.  
- -- 
Bill Adams
Motion Graphics/3D Design Director
IBB Broadcast Design Center, Washington DC
[email-masked]
202-205-9638

1966 Land Rover 2A 109SW Diesel
1981 Honda GoldWing Standard
1963 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:18:07 -0400
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: British Car Day at Allen Park Pond in Bowie MD

I think I'll stop by, but I'm not going to exhibit.
- -- 
Bill Adams
Motion Graphics/3D Design Director
IBB Broadcast Design Center, Washington DC
[email-masked]
202-205-9638

1966 Land Rover 2A 109SW Diesel
1981 Honda GoldWing Standard
1963 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 14:36:30 +0100
From: Paul <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: French car

In article <[email-masked]>, Jos de vries 
wrote:
> Not totally, that was the MS, (1974?), also with those 'in the corner
> looking' headlights. The much later XM (1995?) looked verry similar to that
> MS.
>
Its called the SM, Jos.

It was very expensive in the UK. Over double the price of a 5.3 V12 E-Type 
ISTR.

 Those interested in Citroens might like to visit 
http://www.ccc-uk.demon.co.uk
 
 Which is the website of the Citroen Car Club UK. They are NOT run by PSA.
 
Paul

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:33:30 -0400
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Scarcity?

>I'm probably wrong about this but isn't it true that you cannot have both an
>OD and a PTO?
>
Correct, unless you have the "drop down" gear. Robert Davis (of the 
Virginia Robert Davis "Mercruiser" fame) had one of these kits a 
couple years back--it's the only one that I actually know of.

My opinions on overdrives--after blowing two of them--are well 
documented. For the money I'd opt for the Ashcroft Hi-Ratio transfer 
case unless I lived in the steep "foothills" of Colorado.

jeff
- -- 
==                                                                   
  Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT        
                     [email-masked]
                      ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life, 
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 14:36:04 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: More opinions sought

Off to the galvanisers with you!!

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 16:50:00 +0200
From: jos de vries <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: French car

> Its called the SM, Jos.
I stand corrected, but I did co-pilot one SM once

gr JOS.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 11:04:57 -0400
From: "A. P. (Sandy) Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Unobtainium

Rich wrote:

>> I'm probably wrong about this but isn't it true that you cannot have both
>> an OD and a PTO?

Correct....

Paul Quin" <[email-masked]> wrote:

>Probably not with a rear PTO, but there was such a thing as a bottom PTO
>that bolted on where the transfer case pan goes.  It's been unobtainium for
>years...

Robert Davis (of "mercruiser" fame) has one - *new* in a gen-u-wine LR
wooden crate.  Only one I've ever seen in over 30 years of Rovering.  This
'bottom' PTO was officially called a "centre" power take-off.  With it you
could have an O/D and a PTO.  No doubt the forest of stalks sprouting from
the floor would make the vehicle intimidating to most would-be car thieves....

A couple of years back, the boy made a tour of the UK, acquiring unusual
bits and pieces as he went.  Came home with two container loads of goods
and vehicles.

Cheers

	*-----"jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is legendary"----*
	|                 A. P. "Sandy" Grice                  |
	|    The Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd    |
	|     1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
	|     757-622-7054  (H)423-4898  (FAX)757-622-7056     |
	*------------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:03:14 -0700
From: "Rich & Lori Williams" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: More opinions sought

> Off to the galvanisers with you!!

No galvy shops in this part of the country (pacific northwest) or I'd do it
in a heartbeat.

Rich

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 07:22:46 -0800
From: Russ Wilson <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: More opinions sought

>> Off to the galvanisers with you!!
>
>No galvy shops in this part of the country (pacific northwest) or I'd do it
>in a heartbeat.
>
>Rich

If you really want your stuff galvanized, look into getting a rental truck
and stuffing everything in the back and driving to the closest galvanizer.
This is how I hauled my goodies to the galvanizer.  It really wouldn't
matter how far between your house and the galvie man other than milage on
the rental truck and time off of work if you had to drive REALLY far to
find a galvanizer.   I'm in L.A. but may be moving back east at some point
so I decided that if I was going to the trouble of having my rover 100%
torn apart I was going to make it as rust proof as possible.
Pennsylvania(where we may return to) uses a magic salt solution on the
roads which makes steel in autos literally melt away.

Good Luck

Russ and Leslie Wilson

"Politics is supposed to be the second-oldest profession.  I have come
to realize that it bears a very close resemblance to the first."
- --Ronald Reagan  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 09:04:59 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: French car

Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 22:52:20 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: French car

On Tue, 19 Jun 2001, Faure, Marin wrote:

:>>And speaking of old, weird cars, here's one I suspect no one will know (including
:me).

>A Berkeley sports, maybe?  They're front wheel drive, but they've got a
two-cylinder engine in them.  the B95 looks something like a sprite

Wow, you get the prize (I think).  I looked at the pictures at the URLs 
you included, and I'm pretty sure the B95 were the cars our neighbor had.  I 
recall a largish grill, and the name Berkely really sounds familiar.  Thanks 
for having such a good memory.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 16:15:32 GMT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Could not resist

After countless times looking a your sig., I've got to ask :-

 (original owner)
 1973 Land Rover Series III-88
 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
 Seattle 

Do you really own Seattle? <VBG> 

Neil 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 09:57:09 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Freewheel hubs

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 04:27:19 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Freewheel hubs

>As it happens, I do indeed get out and walk around and lock the hubs every 
now and again. But then you missed the point about the Royle family too, its 
supposed to be amusing.

No kidding!!!!!  And here I thought it was a reality TV series featuring a genuine 
family of totally lazy sods.  What was really puzzling me was the fact that this 
actual family was made up of a number of actors who I recognized from having 
watched years of British TV.  I thought, "Wow, that's weird.  All these actors 
I've been watching in all sorts of shows are related and live in this really bizarre 
family."  I feel better now, knowing that the Royle Family is actually a fictitious, 
amusing, parody.....:-)

___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 07:18:52 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: More opinions sought

Get hold of Gord'n Perrott ([email-masked]), think he's in the Seattle 
phone book.  His philosophy is, 'if its steel, galvanize it'.  Believe he 
uses a galvanizer in Portland.

Aloha
Peter O.

>From: "Rich & Lori Williams" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: <[email-masked]>
>Subject: Re: LRO: More opinions sought
>Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:03:14 -0700
>
> > Off to the galvanisers with you!!
>
>No galvy shops in this part of the country (pacific northwest) or I'd do it
>in a heartbeat.
>
>Rich
>
>
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 13:42:29 -0400
From: asfco <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: off topic where to find

I have tried everywhere else but I'll bet someone on this list will have
the answer...
  I am in need of some pulley wheels (sheaves) they are for wire rope
application and are used in raising/lowering/tilting a Ham radio Tower.
Tower no longer being manufactured and current tower builders do not use
the sizes I need.
  Looking for 2.5" OD x 1/4 or 5/16 thick with a 7/16 or 1/2 bronze
bushing..
Also need a 3" one
anyone know of a source?? I have checked Sava Ind. McMaster-carr &
Grainger as well as some marine places
anyone out there have any suggestions or can anybody on the list make
these??
TIA
Steve  Bradke  '68 lla 88
W2GB

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 11:24:58 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Yellow Knob will not stay down

What does it mean if the yellow knob will not stay down. If you hold it down
the Low will work, but it just pops back up when you let go of it.
Everything else works.  Thanks for the help.
Kind regards,
Mark Pilkington

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 14:33:32 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Yellow Knob will not stay down

Low?  Pushing the yellow knob down engages 4wd in high gear....

>>> [email-masked] 06/20/01 02:24PM >>>
What does it mean if the yellow knob will not stay down. If you hold it down
the Low will work, but it just pops back up when you let go of it.
Everything else works.  Thanks for the help.
Kind regards,
Mark Pilkington

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 15:00:55 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: GBR MANUAL DIFF LOCKS

In a message dated 6/15/01 8:37:19 AM, [email-masked] writes:

<< Does anybody run these?  I was checking them out at the site and they seem

beautifully simple and low tech, a goal in my Lightweight buildup.  Also, is

it just a tist of one side of the hubs, or do you have to twist both of

them?  Also, any experience with them would be appreciated.  I've been

wanting to go on some of the trails the jeepers here go on, but they seem to

be running lockers most of the time.  I of course will try without first,

just thought I'd hear some info on them from the crew.  

Matt

Matt
    It doesn't look like anybody picked up on this, so I'll answer your 
questions myself. There is only one locking hub, the long axle side. It is a 
very simple, low tech and as a result, a very reliable unit. It works on the 
concept of opposing springs, a 200 ft/lb locking spring and a 60 ft/lb 
unlocking spring. Essentially the long axle slides into the center part of 
the diff to lock the unit up. The unlocking bolt compresses the 200ft/lb 
locking spring and the 60 ft/lb releases the axle and hence unlocks the diff.
    I carry them because they are low tech and effective (and I like diffs). 
One of the problems with fully selectable locking diff such as an ARB, is 
that they are a very complex and expensive devices. They have a mechanical, 
pneumatic and electrical systems and as a result are more prone to problems. 
This manual diff lock is only mechanical.
    The only disadvantages of this manual unit is that the diff lock is not 
cab controlled and and the locking hub protrudes slightly beyond the wheel. 
As far as the cab controls go, in my opinion its not a big deal. The unit is 
extemely stout (4 pinion carrier and EN25 24 spline axles) so if you don't 
feel like unlocking it off road -  leave it locked, you are not going to 
damage it. Besides a nifty, modern, high tech looking,  lighted ARB switch 
looks so out of place in a Series Rover!
    The slightly protruding locking hub is easily solved by having some 
awareness of it being there and as a result watching where you are going. 
When was the last time anyone ran a front locking hub into anything. I've 
never done it.
    I just received an batch of them in so I do have them in stock at present.

Bill
GBR

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 09:09:13 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Yellow Knob will not stay down

In 2wd, large/red knob lever forward, pushing down on yellow knob engages 
4wd high and knob will remain down.  In 4wd low, large/red knob lever back, 
the yellow knob is released and pops up.  Yellow knob will stay down until 
you move large/red lever back in 4wd low.

Aloha
Peter O

>From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: [email-masked]
>Subject: LRO: Yellow Knob will not stay down
>Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 11:24:58 -0700
>
>What does it mean if the yellow knob will not stay down. If you hold it 
>down
>the Low will work, but it just pops back up when you let go of it.
>Everything else works.  Thanks for the help.
>Kind regards,
>Mark Pilkington
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 15:15:29 -0400
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Yellow Knob will not stay down

one of these days I'll create a Flash version of the knobs on a series.
somebody remind me.

Matt

- -----Original Message-----
From: Peter Ogilvie [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 3:09 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Yellow Knob will not stay down

In 2wd, large/red knob lever forward, pushing down on yellow knob engages 
4wd high and knob will remain down.  In 4wd low, large/red knob lever back, 
the yellow knob is released and pops up.  Yellow knob will stay down until 
you move large/red lever back in 4wd low.

Aloha
Peter O

>From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: [email-masked]
>Subject: LRO: Yellow Knob will not stay down
>Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 11:24:58 -0700
>
>What does it mean if the yellow knob will not stay down. If you hold it 
>down
>the Low will work, but it just pops back up when you let go of it.
>Everything else works.  Thanks for the help.
>Kind regards,
>Mark Pilkington
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 20:17:50 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: French car

Marin writes: >>>corrugated scout car things, not unlike
> the flat-sided VW that was based on the German WWII scout car.  This
> thing was not nearly as substantial, and it was in essence, a re-bodied
> 2CV.  They were all painted pink with a fringed canopy<<

 the Citroen Mehari I remember them all over the South of France for a
year or so - Citroen's answer to the Mini-Moke. ISTR a 4x4 version...

>>>didn't Citroen team
> up with Maserati to produce a performance version of the DS?  Maybe with
> a Maserati engine in the Citroen body?  <<<

That was the Citroen SM. Citroen designed body (not the same as the DS
Pallas) Maserati engine. Superb vehicle but it rusted away very quickly
(like the Lancia Beta).

>>>these small sports car things. They looked, as I recall, sort of like
> streamlined versions of an Austin Healey Sprite, the rounder bugeye model,
although
> these things didn't have google-eyed headlights.  But they were powered by
a
> relatively large motorcycle engine with (if memory serves) two horizontal
cylinders.
> Or maybe it was a vertical or slanted twin.   Anyway, it was a twin.  The
engine was
> mounted up front under the hood in the conventional position. It might
have had
> chain drive to the rear wheels.  These cars
> had manufacturer's names, but I can't recall for the life of me what they
were.
> They were both silver or gray, for whatever that's worth.  I think they
were British,
> but again I simply can't recall.  Age, you know.....
> (They weren't Morgan three-wheelers, I know for sure what those look
like.)<<<

Sounds like the Berkeley. Small time manufacturer only one step up from kit
car manufacturers. Gave Colin Chapman's early Lotii a run for their money on
the road. A friend of mine put a Mini engine in one, it went like sh*t off a
shovel but the cornering was out.

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 20:13:11 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: How Much Oil For An Oil Change ?

we used to be able to buy beer in quarts, in my (misspent) youth. Never see
'em today tho.
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 16:05:35 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: How Much Oil For An Oil Change ?

- --part1_c1.fc63bbc.28625c0f_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 6/20/01 6:40:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> I think I used 7.5 on my last fillup.  are you sure you put the drainage
> plug back in?
> 
> 

When I got to 7.5 quarts it was right to the upper line like it should be. 
The manual is obviously wrong.

Tony

Anthony D. Miller & Co.
~ The Tintype Artist ~
Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes
     34 Perryfalls Place
Baltimore, Maryland 21236
            410-256-7442
     www.tintype-artist.com

- --part1_c1.fc63bbc.28625c0f_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  COLOR="#800000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">In a message dated 6/20/01 6:40:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
<BR>[email-masked] writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I think I used 7.5 on my last fillup. &nbsp;are you sure you put the drainage
<BR>plug back in?
<BR>
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#800000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">
<BR>When I got to 7.5 quarts it was right to the upper line like it should be. 
<BR>The manual is obviously wrong.
<BR>
<BR>Tony
<BR>
<BR>Anthony D. Miller &amp; Co.
<BR>~ The Tintype Artist ~
<BR>Ambrotypes &amp; Ferrotypes
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;34 Perryfalls Place
<BR>Baltimore, Maryland 21236
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;410-256-7442
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#800000" SIZE=1 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">www.tintype-artist.com</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_c1.fc63bbc.28625c0f_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 16:17:09 -0400
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: How Much Oil For An Oil Change ?

you can buy Malt liquor in imperial quarts over here.... St. Ides, 40 oz.  

Usually the rap stars drink em tho.

Matt

- -----Original Message-----
From: Frank Elson [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 3:13 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: How Much Oil For An Oil Change ?

we used to be able to buy beer in quarts, in my (misspent) youth. Never see
'em today tho.
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 01 14:26:32 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Yellow Knob will not stay down

Are you in low range or high range when you have problems with the yellow 
knob poping up?

>What does it mean if the yellow knob will not stay down. If you hold it down
>the Low will work, but it just pops back up when you let go of it.
>Everything else works.  Thanks for the help.
>

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 17:30:30 -0400
From: "Sergi, Michael" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: More opinions sought

POR-15 works just fine on sandblasted metal.  I have used it extensively in
my rebuild.

Mike

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 7:44 PM
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: LRO: More opinions sought
> 
> 
> In a message dated 6/19/01 8:22:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> [email-masked] writes:
> 
> > Now once I have
> >  it down to raw steel I have two choices.
> >  
> >  A) I can give it a coat of POR 15.
> >  
> I had thought that POR 15 needed to react with some amount of 
> rust in order 
> to work properly.  Would it work if you sandblasted to bare metal?
> 
> Ed Bailey
> 66 S2A SWB (Millennium Falcon)
> Somewhere in East Tennessee
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 15:45:51 -0600
From: Brendan Evans <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Yellow Knob will not stay down

Do you have an overdrive installed?  It could be that where the 
overdrive lever attaches, and the yellow knob moves, the two are 
running into one another.  Have you opened up the floor to see what 
is happening?  When the PO of my rover installed the overdrive he did 
not take care to make sure that the shaft of the yellow knob could 
get by where the over drive lever attaches.

Brendan

>What does it mean if the yellow knob will not stay down. If you hold it down
>the Low will work, but it just pops back up when you let go of it.
>Everything else works.  Thanks for the help.
>Kind regards,
>Mark Pilkington

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 18:04:18 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: 101 Sighting 

- --part1_3a.16b37a7e.286277e2_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi all;
  That 101 FC was on his way home from the BCNH car show that we had in 
Milford NH. He had 2 LR's there, a ser1 all restored to better than new 
condition and the 101 FC. The FC was yust brought in to the US and it is for 
sale. It is low miles and in great shape with a PTO winch.
Steve F
69 SIIA 88
65 SIIA 88

- --part1_3a.16b37a7e.286277e2_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>Hi all;
<BR> &nbsp;That 101 FC was on his way home from the BCNH car show that we had in 
<BR>Milford NH. He had 2 LR's there, a ser1 all restored to better than new 
<BR>condition and the 101 FC. The FC was yust brought in to the US and it is for 
<BR>sale. It is low miles and in great shape with a PTO winch.
<BR>Steve F
<BR>69 SIIA 88
<BR>65 SIIA 88
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

- --part1_3a.16b37a7e.286277e2_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 17:09:01 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: How Much Oil For An Oil Change ?

On Wed, 20 Jun 2001, Frank Elson wrote:

:we used to be able to buy beer in quarts, in my (misspent) youth. Never see
:'em today tho.
:Best Cheers
:

Oddly, it's possible to buy beer-like stuff by the Imperial quart in the US.
It's all stuff that gives the mainstream US beer a bad name, if that's
possible.

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 18:24:30 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: POR 15 Dealer

- --part1_b2.17311575.28627c9e_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi All;
    If anyone wants to know about  the POR products and get a catalog of 
same. They can Email this guy I met at a show. He is a dealer and will send 
you out a catalog. It should answer most of the questions.
      Email; [email-masked]
       Toll free call: 1-877-329-0900
The guys name is Dave.
Steve F
69 SIIA 88
65 SIIA 88

- --part1_b2.17311575.28627c9e_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>Hi All;
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;If anyone wants to know about &nbsp;the POR products and get a catalog of 
<BR>same. They can Email this guy I met at a show. He is a dealer and will send 
<BR>you out a catalog. It should answer most of the questions.
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Email; [email-masked]
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Toll free call: 1-877-329-0900
<BR>The guys name is Dave.
<BR>Steve F
<BR>69 SIIA 88
<BR>65 SIIA 88
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

- --part1_b2.17311575.28627c9e_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 21:59:38 -0400
From: "Mark  Love" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: French car

Marin, the cars of which you speak were probably Berkleys. due to the chain drive system they were
very popular with the motorcycle crowd as anybodies favorite brand could usually be shoehorned in.
Mark Love

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 21:15:34 -0700
From: "Rich & Lori Williams" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Air Compressor

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_006A_01C0F9CE.251E5D20
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I want to finally break down and buy a compressor and some tools.  Can =
anyone give me any suggestions as to what to look for?  I think the main =
purpose will be for painting but between my dad and I it should get some =
good use.

Thanks,=20

Rich
'60 SII 109 SW

- ------=_NextPart_000_006A_01C0F9CE.251E5D20
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I want to finally break down and buy a =
compressor=20
and some tools.&nbsp; Can anyone give me any suggestions as to what to =
look=20
for?&nbsp; I think the main purpose will be for painting but between my =
dad and=20
I it should get some good use.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks, </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Rich</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>'60 SII 109 =
SW</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_006A_01C0F9CE.251E5D20--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 00:35:46 -0400
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressor

>  think the main purpose will be for painting

Big tank. high horsepower.

jab

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 22:53:40 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressor

And not oilless if you like to hear and can afford a bit more.

Jeff Berg wrote:
> 
> >  think the main purpose will be for painting
> 
> Big tank. high horsepower.
> 
> jab

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: 20 Jun 2001 22:04:31 -0700
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressor

Long hose, big tools.

Bryan  (to follow JAB's line of advice)

On Wed, 20 June 2001, "Rich & Lori Williams" wrote:

> 
> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> <HTML><HEAD>
> <META content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" http-equiv=Content-Type>
> <META content="MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=GENERATOR>
> <STYLE></STYLE>
> </HEAD>
> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I want to finally break down and buy a compressor 
> and some tools.&nbsp; Can anyone give me any suggestions as to what to look 
> for?&nbsp; I think the main purpose will be for painting but between my dad and 
> I it should get some good use.</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Thanks, </FONT></DIV>
> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Rich</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>'60 SII 109 SW</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 07:11:48 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Air Compressor

Do not get an oilless.
Get at least 4hp.
Get at least a 40 gal tank, bigger if painting.
http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=7909&p
rmenbr=6970
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 00:18:12 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressor

On Wed, 20 Jun 2001, Rich & Lori Williams wrote:

:I want to finally break down and buy a compressor and some tools.  Can
:anyone give me any suggestions as to what to look for?  I think the
:main purpose will be for painting but between my dad and I it should
:get some good use.
:

The biggest one you can afford.  Ignore HP ratings, look at the CFM ratings.
220V is a plus.

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 01:27:05 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Re: French car

 jos de vries  writes:

<< If you like land rovers IMHO you must also like the 2CV.>>

Hang one on davits from the back of your Land Rover, like Dixon does with his 
Mini.

Paul Donohue
1965 Land Rover 109
Denver

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 09:12:10 +0100
From: Ian Stuart <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Freewheel hubs

On Wednesday 20 June 2001 17:57, you wrote:
> No kidding!!!!!  And here I thought it was a reality TV series
> featuring a genuine family of totally lazy sods.  What was really
> puzzling me was the fact that this actual family was made up of a
> number of actors who I recognized from having watched years of
> British TV.  I thought, "Wow, that's weird.  All these actors I've
> been watching in all sorts of shows are related and live in this
> really bizarre family."  I feel better now, knowing that the Royle
> Family is actually a fictitious, amusing, parody.....:-)
Marin,

You really are a sarcastic bugger aren't you? <grin>

How much Humberside blood is in your system?

- -- 
           --==**==--
Ian Stuart - EDINA, DataLibrary, University computing services.
- ---------------------------------
A man depriving some village, somewhere, of a first-class idiot
- ---------------------------------
http://lucas.ucs.ed.ac.uk/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 09:21:13 +0100
From: Ian Stuart <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Yellow Knob will not stay down

On Wednesday 20 June 2001 19:33, you wrote:
> Low?  Pushing the yellow knob down engages 4wd in high gear....
>
Not in my gearboxes...

<confused..>

I'm used to:
black lever on-top-of-tunnel : 1-4 + R
Red Lever : High <-> 4x4xLow
Yellow Lever : up=4x2xhigh, down=4x4xhigh
Black lever on-tunnel-side : back=out, forward=engaged

There was a mod, in the 70's, whereby you took out the locking-pin from 
the top of the nose of the hi/low section, and used an SI lever to 
change between 4x2/4x4 & Hi/Lo...

- -- 
           --==**==--
Ian Stuart - EDINA, DataLibrary, University computing services.
- ---------------------------------
A man depriving some village, somewhere, of a first-class idiot
- ---------------------------------
http://lucas.ucs.ed.ac.uk/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 08:06:45 -0400
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressor

>The biggest one you can afford.  Ignore HP ratings, look at the CFM ratings.
>220V is a plus.

I stand corrected. Dave speaks more accurately. What I really meant 
was one that can move a lot of air which is necessary for smooth 
operation of a spray gun. Horsepower is not a direct measurement of 
that ability, particularly in that there are several different way in 
which to measure horsepower.

To provide you with the kind of information that you probably wanted 
to begin with, I refer you to 
<http://www.ultimategarage.com/compress.html>. My pal Steve 
D'Gerolamo (who lives and breathes tools) has written a short but 
concise article on this very topic--and will be happy to sell you one 
hell of a high quality compressor if you decide to go that route. 
(The article starts out by stating that most people can be very happy 
with a garden variety model.) He concurs with Dave:

	"The two basic rules on buying a compressor are:

	1.	The most important specification for any compressor is ACFM
  	@ 100psi (the higher the better). Forget horsepower...in this case.
	2.	Buy the compressor with the highest ACFM (at 100psi) that
	you can afford."

There are a few other pointers in the article, check it out.

Hanging my head in shame...

jeff

- -- 
==                                                                   
  Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT        
                     [email-masked]
                      ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life, 
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 08:35:44 -0400
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Air Compressor

One more note on this topic.  My compressor is (was?) an Emglo 
<http://www.emglo.com> which worked fine for over ten years but have 
bit the dust last week.  It was purchased as a transportable air 
source for my pneumatic staple guns--for which it is ideally suited. 
It's too small for painting (though it has done a boat bottom or 
three.) It's also a little too small for using impact guns or air 
ratchets on a continuous basis--though it was pressed into service 
for this task many times which probably contributed to it's demise 
while using a blower nozzle at near-constant duty cycle.)

I have no "religious" leanings towards which brand of compressor is 
best. I will, however, preach the gospel when it comes to the PREVOST 
disconnects that Steve D'G sells. They are the most positive 
locking--safest--and easiest to use disconnect available. They are 
well worth the extra expense. You don't have to be hit by a hose that 
you *thought* was locked many times to appreciate this. Or worse, 
have the loose hose go shooting into your workpiece and damage it 
somehow. Guilty on both counts before I saw the light.

Avoid the collar-type disconnects, particularly the low-cost variety 
sold by national "discount" tool purveyors. They are less then ideal 
when new, and devil's spawn once worn. The PREVOST disconnects use 
are easy to engage...you KNOW your air supply line is locked in...and 
the hose is quickly disconnected with the push of a button. (The 
button has enough resistance that you won't disengage the coupler by 
accident.)

jeff

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 09:44:54 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Yellow Knob will not stay down

Like I said, in 4x2 hight, with red knob forward, pushing down on yellow knob should lock in 4x4 high.  But sounds like you have a mod of some sort.  I've not tried pushing down on the yellow knob in 4x4 low, red know back.

>>> [email-masked] 06/21/01 04:21AM >>>
On Wednesday 20 June 2001 19:33, you wrote:
> Low?  Pushing the yellow knob down engages 4wd in high gear....
>
Not in my gearboxes...

<confused..>

I'm used to:
black lever on-top-of-tunnel : 1-4 + R
Red Lever : High <-> 4x4xLow
Yellow Lever : up=4x2xhigh, down=4x4xhigh
Black lever on-tunnel-side : back=out, forward=engaged

There was a mod, in the 70's, whereby you took out the locking-pin from 
the top of the nose of the hi/low section, and used an SI lever to 
change between 4x2/4x4 & Hi/Lo...

- -- 
           --==**==--
Ian Stuart - EDINA, DataLibrary, University computing services.
- ---------------------------------
A man depriving some village, somewhere, of a first-class idiot
- ---------------------------------
http://lucas.ucs.ed.ac.uk/

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #417
**********************************************