Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #416

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 05:43:12 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Wednesday, June 20 2001 Volume 01 : Number 416

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 02:31:25 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: More opinions sought

> A) I can give it a coat of POR 15.
>
> B) Using rattle cans, I can prep, prime and paint with gloss black.

I have been told that POR isn't so great on bare steel, works better with a
light dusting of rust.  Not sure how 'true' this statement is.  I would go
the POR root.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 02:33:06 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: Scarcity?

> I know many of the Fairey overdrive parts are NLA.  New overdrives are
> rumored to be NLA.  What is out there is rebuilt.

Rovers Down South has new Faireys for 2000$, rebuilts from 750-1500$ and all
the parts.  Prices on the parts seemed pretty reasonbable to me, especially
given how much he is selling the new ones for.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 17:41:02 -0700
From: "Paul Quin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: Scarcity?

Probably not with a rear PTO, but there was such a thing as a bottom PTO
that bolted on where the transfer case pan goes.  It's been unobtainium for
years...

Paul in Victoria.
- ----- Original Message -----

> I know many of the Fairey overdrive parts are NLA.  New overdrives are
> rumored to be NLA.  What is out there is rebuilt.  I can't speak for the
> PTO.
>
> I'm probably wrong about this but isn't it true that you cannot have both
an
> OD and a PTO?
> Rich
> '60 SII 109sw

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 20:43:48 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: More opinions sought

In a message dated 6/19/01 8:22:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> Now once I have
>  it down to raw steel I have two choices.
>  
>  A) I can give it a coat of POR 15.
>  
I had thought that POR 15 needed to react with some amount of rust in order 
to work properly.  Would it work if you sandblasted to bare metal?

Ed Bailey
66 S2A SWB (Millennium Falcon)
Somewhere in East Tennessee

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 20:04:17 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: How Much Oil For An Oil Change ?

On Tue, 19 Jun 2001 [email-masked] wrote:

:Okay, dumb question but the manual for the Series III Lightweight says 11 1/2
:pints US and an extra 1 1/2 pints for the filter too. That's 13 pints or 6
:1/2 quarts. That only just makes the "L" on the dipstick. Am I missing
:something here? It does not look like enough.
:

My Land-Rovers have had three marks on the dipstick.  The top is the max
fill line, the bottom is the min fill, the middle is min fill for stationary
or extreme slope operation.  There's about a US quart and half between the
extremes.  Fill it to the top line, it's 7 US quarts and a bit.

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 17:55:34 -0800
From: Russ Wilson <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: More opinions sought

>Another in what I am sure will be a series of "opinion polls".
>
>Here's the situation...  Having the 109 frame sandblasted.  Now once I have
>it down to raw steel I have two choices.
>
>A) I can give it a coat of POR 15.
>
>B) Using rattle cans, I can prep, prime and paint with gloss black.
>
>Cast your vote!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Rich
>'60 SII 109SW

My 109 frame is at the sandblaster here in L.A. along with everything else
steel on the rover.  Bulkhead, galvie bits etc.  I'm just curious how much
you paid for you blasting.  My blasting came to $250 for the works.

Russ and Leslie Wilson

"Politics is supposed to be the second-oldest profession.  I have come
to realize that it bears a very close resemblance to the first."
- --Ronald Reagan  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 21:44:18 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: More opinions sought

POR15 is for rusty metal unless you use the whole system (primer and the
like). It's also impossible to repair neatly if it gets scraped up or
damaged.

Good primer, good paint, and stay on it is what 'd do. I'm trying another
approach which I will write of later depending on success.

               ajr

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 17:58:05 -0800
From: Russ Wilson <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: More opinions sought

>In a message dated 6/19/01 8:22:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>[email-masked] writes:
>
>> Now once I have
>>  it down to raw steel I have two choices.
>>
>>  A) I can give it a coat of POR 15.
>>
>I had thought that POR 15 needed to react with some amount of rust in order
>to work properly.  Would it work if you sandblasted to bare metal?
>
>Ed Bailey
>66 S2A SWB (Millennium Falcon)
>Somewhere in East Tennessee

I've been told that if you get stuff blasted and want to POR 15 it, you
need to hose it down and let it sit for a week or two so that it gets that
nice thin layer of surface rust.  When you are done you are left with a
nice smooth black finish.

Russ and Leslie Wilson

"Politics is supposed to be the second-oldest profession.  I have come
to realize that it bears a very close resemblance to the first."
- --Ronald Reagan  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 19:24:18 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: US Land Rover history (was Freelander Heritage)

Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 09:23:17 -0600
From: Ivan Van Laningham <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: FW: Freelander "Heritage"

>So, who distributed series vehicles before LRNA, and when did LRNA come
into being?

Land Rover North America was originally called Range Rover North America, 
and it was created specifically to import the Range Rover starting in 1987.  In 
1993, they imported 500 Defender 110s, and in 1994 (I think) they began 
importing the Discovery.  A year later (I think) they began bringing in 
limited numbers of D90s.  Somewhere along in here they changed 
their name from Range Rover North America to Land Rover 
North America.  Land Rover Canada is under the same upper 
management umbrella.

Series Land Rovers were imported to the US through 1974.  They were 
sold initially through the Rover dealer network, which also sold Rover 
passenger cars.  They were later sold by British Leyland dealers, 
who also carried such marques as MG, Triumph, etc.  I do not know if 
there was a single US importer as there is today.  Perhaps British 
Leyland or BMC did their own importing, or maybe the individual dealerships 
were responsible for the import side of the business.  But Series Land 
Rovers weren't brought in by Range Rover North America/Land Rover North 
America because that organization didn't exist until just prior to 1987.

During the Dark Ages between 1974 and 1987, there were a few individual 
companies that brought in "gray market" Land Rovers, primarily the Range 
Rover.  I recall being told about these companies, most of them on the 
east coast, back in the early 1980s.  You could get a brand new Range 
Rover through them, and the price included the modifications they developed 
to make the Range Rover meet the US emissions and safety specifications 
that were in force at the time.  This added considerably to the cost, and also 
voided the manufacturer's warranty.  But a small number of Range Rovers 
dribbled into the US during these years, and you see them now and again 
around the country.  There is one in my neighborhood.  I heard 
at the time about the gray market Range Rovers being imported; I do not 
know if any of these little companies also brought in post-1974 
Series IIIs, Nineties, One-Tens, or Defenders.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 19:31:52 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: How Much Oil For An Oil Change ?

Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 20:32:24 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: How Much Oil For An Oil Change ?

>Okay, dumb question but the manual for the Series III Lightweight says 11 1/2 
pints US and an extra 1 1/2 pints for the filter too. That's 13 pints or 6 
1/2 quarts. That only just makes the "L" on the dipstick. Am I missing 
something here? It does not look like enough.

I don't recall what my SIII manual gives for capacities.  But it takes 
eight quarts (two gallons) to fill the sump and oil filter and have the 
level at Full on the dipstick.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 19:43:12 -0700
From: "Rich & Lori Williams" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: More opinions sought

The guy at the automotive paint supply shop said that POR 15 can go on raw
steel that's been sandblasted.  I'm not sure I believe it though.  That's
partly why I did this informal poll.  I don't recall him saying anything
about a POR 15 prep but it would not surprise me if that was needed.

And to Russ Wilson regarding the cost of sandblasting...

So far I've blasted:

1 Jaguar XK-150 bonnet (all aluminum) = $20
1 Series deluxe bonnet = $30 (they used plastic media on the Al and sand on
the steel - masking the Al with many layers of duck tape first)
4 Jaguar wire wheels = $60

2 LR door post assemblies
1 bulkhead
1 breakfast
2 mud shields
1 air filter/battery assembly
2-5 gallon plastic buckets of "smaller bits"
and more stuff that I cannot remember - all of this for $100

They've quoted me $100-150 on the 109 frame (depends on how "dirty" it is
they say - I've got it very clean so I'm guessing $100)

And they've quoted me $5 per wheel x 6 (if I can ever get SII spares ;-)  I
don't thing I have anything else that is sandblast-able.

So for my LR stuff I will have spent a total of $260 - including taxes and
dept of ecology fees

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Russ Wilson <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 6:58 PM
Subject: Re: LRO: More opinions sought

> >In a message dated 6/19/01 8:22:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> >[email-masked] writes:
> >
> >> Now once I have
> >>  it down to raw steel I have two choices.
> >>
> >>  A) I can give it a coat of POR 15.
> >>
> >I had thought that POR 15 needed to react with some amount of rust in
order
> >to work properly.  Would it work if you sandblasted to bare metal?
> >
> >Ed Bailey
> >66 S2A SWB (Millennium Falcon)
> >Somewhere in East Tennessee
>
> I've been told that if you get stuff blasted and want to POR 15 it, you
> need to hose it down and let it sit for a week or two so that it gets that
> nice thin layer of surface rust.  When you are done you are left with a
> nice smooth black finish.
>
> Russ and Leslie Wilson
>
> "Politics is supposed to be the second-oldest profession.  I have come
> to realize that it bears a very close resemblance to the first."
> --Ronald Reagan
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 19:59:08 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: French car

Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 20:13:52 +0200
From: jos de vries <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: French car

Marin wrote:
>>the round "deux chevaux," well, I'm not sure
> that's so neat, although it's certainly unique....

>If you like land rovers IMHO you must also like the 2CV.

I understand the 2CV was a very clever design in its day, and 
it provided a lot of people affordable 
transportation.  But the design has never done anything for me.  I 
remember back in Hawaii in the 1970s, one of the rental car companies 
brought in a bunch of these sort of corrugated scout car things, not unlike 
the flat-sided VW that was based on the German WWII scout car.  This 
thing was not nearly as substantial, and it was in essence, a re-bodied 
2CV.  They were all painted pink with a fringed canopy.  The company 
either went out of business or decided the cars weren't working out, so  
they sold them cheap.  One of our lighting grips bought two or three of them.  He 
had a genuine 2CV which he was pretty much constantly working on in a 
fruitless attempt to keep it running, and these pink scout car 
things were a great source of mechanical parts for 
him;  2CV parts didn't exactly grow on trees in Honolulu.

I do like the big Citroen (the long, angular one), although I have no idea if 
it's a good car underneath the nifty body or not.  And didn't Citroen team 
up with Maserati to produce a performance version of the DS?  Maybe with 
a Maserati engine in the Citroen body?  Or am I totally misremembering things 
again?  I know nothing of their current cars, although I'm 
going to visit a friend who works for Airbus in Toulouse this October, and I'm 
trying to find a company in that area that has a Citroen C5 for rent.  It's supposed 
to be a pretty neat machine, but so far I haven't found a company that rents them.

And speaking of old, weird cars, here's one I suspect no one will know (including 
me).  In my neighborhood in Honolulu back in about 1971, there was a fellow 
who had two of these small sports car things. They looked, as I recall, sort of like 
streamlined versions of an Austin Healey Sprite, the rounder bugeye model, although 
these things didn't have google-eyed headlights.  But they were powered by a 
relatively large motorcycle engine with (if memory serves) two horizontal cylinders.  
Or maybe it was a vertical or slanted twin.   Anyway, it was a twin.  The engine was 
mounted up front under the hood in the conventional position. It might have had 
chain drive to the rear wheels.  These cars 
had manufacturer's names, but I can't recall for the life of me what they were.  
They were both silver or gray, for whatever that's worth.  I think they were British, 
but again I simply can't recall.  Age, you know.....  
(They weren't Morgan three-wheelers, I know for sure what those look like.)
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 23:00:05 -0400
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: British Car Day at Allen Park Pond in Bowie MD

Hi all, 

Sorry for the cross post.

Mike Tomplins and I have pre-registered our series 109's for British Car Day this Sunday at Allen Park Pond in Bowie, MD.

Anyone else on the list going to be there?

Of course, I expect that a lot of LROs will be at the OVLR b'day party.

Cheers,
Ray Burton
Richmond, Va.
'64 Ser.IIa 109 SW
'70 Ser.IIa 88
'73 Ser.III 109 ex-MoD
'84 RR

Dydd Mawrth, Maheffin pedwar ar pymtheg (Welsh for: Tuesday, June 19)
Araf dan a wna frag melys.(A slow fire makes sweet malt.)
(1566) James VI of Scotland born.
(1843) Rebecca Riot against road tolls, Carmarthan, Wales.
"I owe allegiance to the land of my birth, but I am first, last and always a Campbell"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 23:45:05 -0400
From: "Lee Jones" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: How Much Oil For An Oil Change ?

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Yep  -  Those are IMPERIAL pints - 7 quarts (US) hits my dipstick just below
the F mark.

Lee

  -----Original Message-----
  From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf
Of [email-masked]
  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 8:32 PM
  To: [email-masked]
  Subject: Re: LRO: How Much Oil For An Oil Change ?

  Okay, dumb question but the manual for the Series III Lightweight says 11
1/2
  pints US and an extra 1 1/2 pints for the filter too. That's 13 pints or 6
  1/2 quarts. That only just makes the "L" on the dipstick. Am I missing
  something here? It does not look like enough.
  Thanks,
  Tony

  Anthony D. Miller & Co.
  ~ The Tintype Artist ~
  Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes
      34 Perryfalls Place
  Baltimore, Maryland 21236
             410-256-7442
      www.tintype-artist.com

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<DIV><SPAN class=3D263364303-20062001><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2>Yep&nbsp; -&nbsp; Those are IMPERIAL pints - 7 quarts (US) hits =
my=20
dipstick just below the F mark.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<P><FONT size=3D2>Lee<BR></FONT></P>
<BLOCKQUOTE>
  <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
  size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
[email-masked]=20
  [mailto:[email-masked]]<B>On Behalf Of=20
  </B>[email-masked]<BR><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, June 19, 2001 8:32=20
  PM<BR><B>To:</B> [email-masked]<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: LRO: How =
Much Oil=20
  For An Oil Change ?<BR><BR></FONT></DIV><FONT =
face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT=20
  lang=3D0 face=3DBliss color=3D#800000 size=3D2 =
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">Okay, dumb question=20
  but the manual for the Series III Lightweight says 11 1/2 <BR>pints US =
and an=20
  extra 1 1/2 pints for the filter too. That's 13 pints or 6 <BR>1/2 =
quarts.=20
  That only just makes the "L" on the dipstick. Am I missing =
<BR>something here?=20
  It does not look like enough. <BR>Thanks, <BR>Tony <BR><BR>Anthony D. =
Miller=20
  &amp; Co. <BR>~ The Tintype Artist ~ <BR>Ambrotypes &amp; Ferrotypes=20
  <BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;34 Perryfalls Place <BR>Baltimore, =
Maryland 21236=20
  =
<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;410=
- -256-7442=20
  <BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</FONT><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DBliss =
color=3D#800000=20
  size=3D1 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">www.tintype-artist.com</FONT>=20
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 19:56:21 -0700
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Re: French car

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> > >I bought a 1971 Citroen DS21.  Am I sick?  Do I need therapy?
> > I'm not that familiar with Citroen models.  Is the DS21 the long,
> > slopy, angular one with the adjustable road height?
> yep, first build in 1968 IIRC,
> 
> >In the same  family as the big black Citroen's you used to see on 
> the news
> > carrying French government officials in?  If so, I think that's a
> > really neat car, assuming you can still get parts and stuff.
> No problem, here in Holland there are a lot of them. (classics don't 
> pay
> road-tax)
> >the round "deux chevaux," well, I'm not sure
> > that's so neat, although it's certainly unique....
> If you like land rovers IMHO you must also like the 2CV.
> 
The trucketts are the best!

chris hall
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  <DIV>&gt; &gt; &gt;I bought a 1971 Citroen DS21.&nbsp; Am I sick?&nbsp; =
Do I=20
  need therapy?<BR>&gt; &gt; I'm not that familiar with Citroen models.&=
nbsp; Is=20
  the DS21 the long,<BR>&gt; &gt; slopy, angular one with the adjustable =
road=20
  height?<BR>&gt; yep, first build in 1968 IIRC,<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; &gt;In =
the=20
  same&nbsp; family as the big black Citroen's you used to see on <BR>&gt; =
the=20
  news<BR>&gt; &gt; carrying French government officials in?&nbsp; If so, I=
=20
  think that's a<BR>&gt; &gt; really neat car, assuming you can still get =
parts=20
  and stuff.<BR>&gt; No problem, here in Holland there are a lot of them.=20
  (classics don't <BR>&gt; pay<BR>&gt; road-tax)<BR>&gt; &gt;the round "=
deux=20
  chevaux," well, I'm not sure<BR>&gt; &gt; that's so neat, although it's=20
  certainly unique....<BR>&gt; If you like land rovers IMHO you must also =
like=20
  the 2CV.<BR>&gt; <BR>The trucketts are the best!</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>chris hall</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 22:52:20 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: French car

On Tue, 19 Jun 2001, Faure, Marin wrote:

:And speaking of old, weird cars, here's one I suspect no one will know (including
:me).  In my neighborhood in Honolulu back in about 1971, there was a fellow
:who had two of these small sports car things. They looked, as I recall, sort of like
:streamlined versions of an Austin Healey Sprite, the rounder bugeye model, although
:these things didn't have google-eyed headlights.  But they were powered by a
:relatively large motorcycle engine with (if memory serves) two horizontal cylinders.
:Or maybe it was a vertical or slanted twin.   Anyway, it was a twin.  The engine was
:mounted up front under the hood in the conventional position. It might have had
:chain drive to the rear wheels.  These cars
:had manufacturer's names, but I can't recall for the life of me what they were.
A Berkeley sports, maybe?  They're front wheel drive, but they've got a
two-cylinder engine in them.  the B95 looks something like a sprite
http://www.cjnetworks.com/~msabat/berks/igerk95.GIF
http://www.cjnetworks.com/~msabat/berks/

There are a bunch of cars that used an engine called the Azanti, which is an
air cooled twin.  It also was in boats, motorcylces tractors, ....

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 21:38:15 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Pinion nut

Tried everything to get my front pinion nut undone.  Breaker bar, hammer,
cheater bar.  Nothing worked since I don't have a lift to get the thing
far enough off the ground to get enough rotation on the cheater bar.

Figured I'd have to wait til I visited a friend with an impact wrench to
get the thing undone.
Then it hit me: I could brace  the breaker bar on the ground and back up.
 Tried it tonight.   Got the breaker bar on there only to find it too
short to contact the ground.  So I braced it against the top of the right
hand leaf spring, got in, put her in 4L (just to make the process a bit
slower), backed up a foot, and hey presto!  It was loose.  Got the seal
replaced about 10 min. later and am now ready for the weekend's trail
runs.

bill

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 00:54:19 -0400
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: How Much Oil For An Oil Change ?

Seven US quarts (is there any other type?) has always worked for 
me--puts it right at the "H" line. When traveling I don't add oil 
until the level falls below the "L" and then only enough to bring it 
to the midway between point. My experience is that the first quart 
blows off rather quickly--as in the time/distance provided by one 
tank of fuel on the highway--but the level will hang out around "L" 
for three or four tanks before dropping below. This "theory" has 
proved true for three engines--two of them fresh out of the box.

YMMV.

jeff

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 00:14:21 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: How Much Oil For An Oil Change ?

On Wed, 20 Jun 2001, Jeff Berg wrote:

:Seven US quarts (is there any other type?) has always worked for

Of course there's another type, and it's even relevant to Land-Rovers.
The Imperial quart, which is a quarter of an Imperial gallon, or 40 fl oz.
(1.1 L, vs .95 L for a US quart, roughly).  Rover spec'd capacities in
pints, though.

David
- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 02:24:37 -0400
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: How Much Oil For An Oil Change ?

>
>Of course there's another type, and it's even relevant to Land-Rovers.
>The Imperial quart, which is a quarter of an Imperial gallon, or 40 fl oz.
>(1.1 L, vs .95 L for a US quart, roughly).  Rover spec'd capacities in
>pints, though.
>

Thank you David. I knew of Imperial pints and gallons, but had never 
really heard of the quart. My query was not misplaced jingoism, just 
an honest question.

jeff

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:38:15 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: How Much Oil For An Oil Change ?

>  But it takes 
> eight quarts (two gallons) to fill the sump and oil filter and have the 
> level at Full on the dipstick.
> ___________________________
> C. Marin Faure

As does my 1970 2.25 lump
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:41:06 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: More opinions sought

> The guy at the automotive paint supply shop said that POR 15 can go on raw
> steel that's been sandblasted.  I'm not sure I believe it though.  That's
> partly why I did this informal poll.  I don't recall him saying anything
> about a POR 15 prep but it would not surprise me if that was needed.
>

I checked with my friend here that PORed his frame and there is a prep that
you are to use before putting the POR itself on.  Supposedly this etches or
oxidises the bare metal surfaces.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 21:11:11 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: More opinions sought

POR Metal Ready is a prep for rusty metal.  I sand blasted my frame, let it 
sit outside for a month, sprayed it with Por Metal Ready and then painted it 
with POR 15.  I haven't been able to scratch or scrape off the POR paint.  
Its really a tough paint.  Too soon to tell how it will react if it ever 
does get nicked but no signs of any problems after 6 months and I've done my 
best to scrape/scratch it.  POR sticks to the Rover almost as well as it 
stuck to me.

Aloha
Peter O

>From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: <[email-masked]>
>Subject: Re: LRO: More opinions sought
>Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:41:06 -1000
>
> > The guy at the automotive paint supply shop said that POR 15 can go on 
>raw
> > steel that's been sandblasted.  I'm not sure I believe it though.  
>That's
> > partly why I did this informal poll.  I don't recall him saying anything
> > about a POR 15 prep but it would not surprise me if that was needed.
> >
>
>I checked with my friend here that PORed his frame and there is a prep that
>you are to use before putting the POR itself on.  Supposedly this etches or
>oxidises the bare metal surfaces.
>Pete
>
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 00:57:38 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: More opinions sought

> My 109 frame is at the sandblaster here in L.A. along with 
> everything else
> steel on the rover.  Bulkhead, galvie bits etc.  I'm just curious 
> how much
> you paid for you blasting.  My blasting came to $250 for the works.

Wow, I thought I paid too much for sandblasting.  I got my bulkhead,
T-pieces, all galvy trim, rock sliders, and the steel supports for the
bottom of the tub done and it cost me $375 or something insane.  I just
about fell over when he told me the bill.  It took him 5.5 hrs. and he
charges by the hour.  The problem is he's about 100 years old and moves
like it, so I fear a young healthy dude could've done it in about half
the time.  Well, that's what I get for not getting an estimate up
front--it was a backyard operation so I thought it'd be nice and cheap. 
Ha!

bill

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 09:50:30 +0200
From: jos de vries <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: French car

Marin,

> >If you like land rovers IMHO you must also like the 2CV.
>
> I understand the 2CV...But the design has never done anything for me.
You can't argue about that.
>the flat-sided VW that was based on the German WWII scout car.
= Kubelwagen

> This > thing was not nearly as substantial, and it was in essence, a
re-bodied > 2CV.
They are called 'Mehari', in 4x4 form the beat almost every Land Rover in
the dirt.
2CV's are overhere all over the place, at least if not more realiable as a
series Land Rover, look out for chassis rust, engines can be swap'd easily,
it is a all bolt on car. The engine can be lifted by two men, you can take
the fabrik cover off the roof. The overhang in corners is big. they do
feature in fims.   .... Just like a series Land Rover.

> I do like the big Citroen (the long, angular one), although I have no idea
if
> it's a good car underneath the nifty body or not.  And didn't Citroen team
> up with Maserati to produce a performance version of the DS?  Maybe with
> a Maserati engine in the Citroen body?  Or am I totally misremembering
>things  again?
Not totally, that was the MS, (1974?), also with those 'in the corner
looking' headlights. The much later XM (1995?) looked verry similar to that
MS.

>  I know nothing of their current cars, although I'm
> going to visit a friend who works for Airbus in Toulouse this October, and
I'm
> trying to find a company in that area that has a Citroen C5 for rent.
It's supposed  to be a pretty neat machine, but so far I haven't found a
company >that rents them.
Persanally I don't like the c5, do you have the Audi A2 overthere? really
ugly!!

> And speaking of old, weird cars, here's one I suspect no one will know
(including  me).
sorry not me, born in 1970.

gr JOS

Jos de Vries
Delft, Holland
Land Rover 88 4x2 '75 LPG

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 04:27:19 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Freewheel hubs

- --part1_66.107a9487.2861b867_boundary
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As it happens, I do indeed get out and walk around and lock the hubs every 
now and again. But then you missed the point about the Royle family too, its 
supposed to be amusing.

But I'm glad to know that I've unwittingly started a whole new thread about 
the adventures of the Royle family. 

Ian Kelly

1970 Series IIA

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>As it happens, I do indeed get out and walk around and lock the hubs every 
<BR>now and again. But then you missed the point about the Royle family too, its 
<BR>supposed to be amusing.
<BR>
<BR>But I'm glad to know that I've unwittingly started a whole new thread about 
<BR>the adventures of the Royle family. 
<BR>
<BR>Ian Kelly
<BR>
<BR>1970 Series IIA
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 03:38:49 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Re: French car

On Wed, 20 Jun 2001, jos de vries wrote:

:Persanally I don't like the c5, do you have the Audi A2 overthere? really
:ugly!!

Ick.  It's ugly.  (pictures at www.audi-a2.com ) We only get the A4, A6, A8
and TT.  Too bad, I mgith have bought an A3.

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 05:31:49 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: British Car Day at Allen Park Pond in Bowie MD

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In a message dated 6/19/01 11:09:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> Anyone else on the list going to be there?
> 
> 

Ray,
I registered the day they mailed out the forms but have not heard back. I at 
least thought they would send us something. Did this to me before though so I 
drove down anyway and got my Rover in.
I will be there bright and early Sunday with my 1973 Ser.III Lightweight 
still in NATO colours. Be nice to see a few military Rovers there for a 
change. Maybe Quintin will bring the 101.
Best,
Tony Miller

Anthony D. Miller & Co.
~ The Tintype Artist ~
Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes
     34 Perryfalls Place
Baltimore, Maryland 21236
            410-256-7442
     www.tintype-artist.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  COLOR="#800000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">In a message dated 6/19/01 11:09:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
<BR>[email-masked] writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Anyone else on the list going to be there?
<BR>
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#800000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">
<BR>Ray,
<BR>I registered the day they mailed out the forms but have not heard back. I at 
<BR>least thought they would send us something. Did this to me before though so I 
<BR>drove down anyway and got my Rover in.
<BR>I will be there bright and early Sunday with my 1973 Ser.III Lightweight 
<BR>still in NATO colours. Be nice to see a few military Rovers there for a 
<BR>change. Maybe Quintin will bring the 101.
<BR>Best,
<BR>Tony Miller
<BR>
<BR>Anthony D. Miller &amp; Co.
<BR>~ The Tintype Artist ~
<BR>Ambrotypes &amp; Ferrotypes
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;34 Perryfalls Place
<BR>Baltimore, Maryland 21236
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;410-256-7442
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#800000" SIZE=1 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">www.tintype-artist.com</FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 05:37:55 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: How Much Oil For An Oil Change ?

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In a message dated 6/19/01 11:51:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> Yep  -  Those are IMPERIAL pints - 7 quarts (US) hits my dipstick just below 
> the F mark.
>  
> 

Lee,
My manual  give a figure for Imperial pints, US pints and Litres. With a 
calculator all convert correctly and match but none seems enough to reach the 
marks on the dip stick.
Kind of remember the same problem when filling my Ser.I.

It seems 7 US quarts will put mine midway between the marks and 8 as 
suggested will put it on or slightly over the top.

So much for manuals.

Tony

Anthony D. Miller & Co.
~ The Tintype Artist ~
Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes
     34 Perryfalls Place
Baltimore, Maryland 21236
            410-256-7442
     www.tintype-artist.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  COLOR="#800000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">In a message dated 6/19/01 11:51:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
<BR>[email-masked] writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Yep &nbsp;- &nbsp;Those are IMPERIAL pints - 7 quarts (US) hits my dipstick just below 
<BR>the F mark.</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR> 
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#800000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">
<BR>Lee,
<BR>My manual &nbsp;give a figure for Imperial pints, US pints and Litres. With a 
<BR>calculator all convert correctly and match but none seems enough to reach the 
<BR>marks on the dip stick.
<BR>Kind of remember the same problem when filling my Ser.I.
<BR>
<BR>It seems 7 US quarts will put mine midway between the marks and 8 as 
<BR>suggested will put it on or slightly over the top.
<BR>
<BR>So much for manuals.
<BR>
<BR>Tony
<BR>
<BR>Anthony D. Miller &amp; Co.
<BR>~ The Tintype Artist ~
<BR>Ambrotypes &amp; Ferrotypes
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;34 Perryfalls Place
<BR>Baltimore, Maryland 21236
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;410-256-7442
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#800000" SIZE=1 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">www.tintype-artist.com</FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 05:41:35 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: How Much Oil For An Oil Change ?

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In a message dated 6/20/01 1:21:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> (1.1 L, vs .95 L for a US quart, roughly).  Rover spec'd capacities in
> pints, though.
> 
> 

.95L for a US quart?  Maybe that's part of the problem. My Lightweight manual 
gives it as .85L for a US quart. Of course on a Lightweight they must use a 
"lightweight quart" <g>.

Looks like from the variety of answers my question was not as dumb as I 
imagined.

Tony

Anthony D. Miller & Co.
~ The Tintype Artist ~
Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes
     34 Perryfalls Place
Baltimore, Maryland 21236
            410-256-7442
     www.tintype-artist.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  COLOR="#800000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">In a message dated 6/20/01 1:21:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
<BR>[email-masked] writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">(1.1 L, vs .95 L for a US quart, roughly). &nbsp;Rover spec'd capacities in
<BR>pints, though.
<BR>
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#800000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">
<BR>.95L for a US quart? &nbsp;Maybe that's part of the problem. My Lightweight manual 
<BR>gives it as .85L for a US quart. Of course on a Lightweight they must use a 
<BR>"lightweight quart" &lt;g&gt;.
<BR>
<BR>Looks like from the variety of answers my question was not as dumb as I 
<BR>imagined.
<BR>
<BR>Tony
<BR>
<BR>Anthony D. Miller &amp; Co.
<BR>~ The Tintype Artist ~
<BR>Ambrotypes &amp; Ferrotypes
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;34 Perryfalls Place
<BR>Baltimore, Maryland 21236
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;410-256-7442
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#800000" SIZE=1 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">www.tintype-artist.com</FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #416
**********************************************