Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #407

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 16:47:47 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Wednesday, June 13 2001 Volume 01 : Number 407

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 00:15:13 -0700
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Engine/Trans Swap

Adam, just because you can buy a turbo for a SBC for $900 you shouldn't
assume you can get the same for another engine.  What J-L says about
turbos is true for conventional turbos, but there is a bag of tricks to
help.  They don't come cheep.  most come under the category of variable
incident, ether vain or multiple inlet.  Another approach would be
undersized turbos from a bike, maybe 2.  I would expect to have make at
least 2 of every thing in different forms to come close to right, or you
could pay someone with great experience to do it for you (there is no
substitute for cubic dollars).  Take a look at www.sdseif.com  in the
tech and FAQ sections,  good ideas and good advice.

For  off road use I think you would be better advised to look into
mechanical or chemical supercharging.  A small Vortec or Paxton
supercharger with bypass and electro clutch could give you just abut the
best of both worlds (normal and forced induction).  Torque would be only
a down shift away and no waiting for the turbine, compressor and
connecting shaft to spool up another 75000 rmp.  Turbo lag is a real PITA
on a race track, I can only imagine what it must be like to deal with in
mud.  Nitrous oxide has a well deserved reputation for destroying engines
, but can be used safely.  It would be like turbo lag it you hit the
engine with too much too fast, but new hardware and software is making
dealing with it eraser and safer.  

Notice the software above?  To get smooth torque curve with any kind of
super charging expect to use programmable engine management.

My own prejudges have led me in a very different direction.  I want more
torque but not enough so new drive line is needed.  I want to keep thing
light as possible.  I won't accept a brake specific fuel consumption over
.5 Lb\HP/Hr. at full power  and above .4 at light throttle.  That last
one rules out most older engine designs do to poor combustion chamber
design.  The second heads me towards aluminum at least in the head and
the first caps my displacement at about 3L.  I found an interesting donor
in my warranty parts bins at work.  Its specs are 2.3L,  long stroke,
short rod, variable valve timing, 4 valves per cylinder, with good
compact and clean combustion camber, under 250 lb.  Its original use is
rather different than my 88 so some modification would be needed.  I have
modeled it with a finite amplitude wave stimulator.  I started with cam
specs from a IIA 2.25 and got 174 lb ft at 1700 rpm , 189 at 3000 and 190
at 4500.  Not too bad for a first try.  As you can see form the flat
torque curve the power curve is a straight ascending line to 5000 where
it flattens out to 6000.  I figure with numbers like that from 2.3L I
don't need the hassle of forced induction.

As for modern engines and there electronics.  Use after market engine
management and the job isn't too hateful.  Do your homework on them to
get one the most closely matches you engine and the job is that much
eraser.

What ever you do keep us posted ( at least me). What doesn't  work for
you is just as useful to me as what does.

chris hall

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 10:43:32 -0700
From: John Wang <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Missing Front Drive Shaft

>>  Anyway, why
>>would people take out the front drive shaft?
>
>Because the front diff, axle or CV joint is broken.
>
>Hope you got the RR cheap.  I'd start it off with a full checkup.

Well. . . i paid $3250. . . . it didn't seem like a bad deal at
the time. . .  I am also still waiting for the smog certificat
from the seller though i don't know how he can do it without
the car. . sigh. 

So, let's say worst case scenario. . or maybe it actually not that
bad. . nursing a sick range rover back to health . . can't be that
bad right?   Let's assume it's the worst care scenario who much
will I have to spend to nurse this car back to health scavenging 
from the junkyard?  Any RangeRover junkyards in the Los Angeles 
Area?

Anyone know where I can locate some manuals and spare parts
for this 88 Range Rover?

Thanks again,

John

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 01:01:31 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Missing Front Drive Shaft

On Tue, 12 Jun 2001, John Wang wrote:

:
:>>  Anyway, why
:>>would people take out the front drive shaft?
:>
:>Because the front diff, axle or CV joint is broken.
:>
:>Hope you got the RR cheap.  I'd start it off with a full checkup.
:
:
:Well. . . i paid $3250. . . . it didn't seem like a bad deal at
:the time. . .  I am also still waiting for the smog certificat
:from the seller though i don't know how he can do it without
:the car. . sigh.
:
:So, let's say worst case scenario. . or maybe it actually not that
:bad. . nursing a sick range rover back to health . . can't be that
:bad right?   Let's assume it's the worst care scenario who much

Heh.  Lots.  As much, or more, than you paid for it.  I bet you need a
transfer case, or a bunch of front end work.  A seller who doesn't tell you
these things should be assumed to be hiding lots more.  (Unless they didn't
know about them, which is possible.)  Of course, if you do all the work
yourself, it may not be a huge fortune, and you'll certainly learn lots
about the truck.

:Anyone know where I can locate some manuals and spare parts
:for this 88 Range Rover?
:

Call British Pacific, in Burbank.  They can sell you manuals and new parts,
and may well know where the used stuff is. 818 841-8945/800 554-4133

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 00:35:44 -0600
From: "Todd Kendrick" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: "Lay" opinion of Guinness :-)

I just removed my suffix C transmission last weekend and I had to undo both
ends of the rear driveshaft to remove the tranny.  The front came out OK
still attached to the diff. While out I went ahead and sprang for new
u-joints  for the rear driveshaft ($9 @ NAPA in stock !) and took it down to
Archuleta's Machine Shop to have it balanced. Front driveshaft is still
hanging on the front diff...........awaiting suffix D transplant this
Saturday !

Todd Kendrick
Taos, NM
'66 109" P/U (in pieces all over my garage)

>LR content.....do I have to unbolt both ends of my driveshafts to remove
the
>trans?  I thought there would be enough travel in the slip joint to get
them
>out of the way....maybe there's just too much crap in the slip joints?

>Keith Armstrong
>Des Moines, IA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 08:51:13 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Engine/Trans Swap

> I was a big fan of the Powerstroke until a damn sensor failed and left me
> stranded yesterday.  No limp home mode, nothing.  Dead. Amazing how a
little
> thing like that sensor can turn an  amazing powerplant like that into a
boat
> anchor.  I miss my regular ol' 7.3 no DI, no Turbo, nothing to tear up.

Hmmmmm
Recently on the Mendo list I was asking about this....well about computer
controlled petrol engines and their reliability.  I mentioned how I had seen
sensors and stuff fail when I was still working in a shop and leave people
stranded.  "Ohhhh no, never stranded, you can always limp home" I was told.
Sorry this happened to ya Winn, but glad to know I have been vindicated.
Just say no to computerised engine controls.

Pete

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 08:52:57 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Engine/Trans Swap

> I'm not a fan of the Jeep 4 cylinder that was in the 85 & 86 Cherokees.
> Don't know if that is the current engine in the Wrangler but if it is,
stay
> away from it.  Engine did not produce significant torque below 2800 rpm so
> was virtually useless off road.  Would not putter along in low range with
> the air conditioning on unless you rode the clutch and rev'd the heck out
of
> it.  Often had to go into low range to negotiate drive ways and to start
off
> on some steep roads.  Performed okay on the road but a real bow wow unless
> you kept the rpm's up.
>
> Aloha
> Peter O.

Pretty sure the 2.5 liter in the 85 cherokkee is the same as the 2.5 in the
98 wrangler.  Well same block....
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 08:47:35 +0100
From: Ian Stuart <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Engine/Trans Swap

On Tuesday 12 June 2001 14:39, you wrote:
> > and at least a
> >roll bar if not roll cage.  the seats should and will also be
> > mounted to the frame mounted cage.
>
> You may have a problems with this.  You sit over the outside frame
> rail so a roll cage that is around the side of the interior/exterior
> is well outside the frame.  And on left hand drive LRs there is just
> no space for a front left interior cage leg.  I think LR had a good
> idea by making the cage external.  The hard part is anchoring it.
For roll-cage design (and specs, look no further than the ARC web pages

(http://www.the-arc.co.uk/regulations/rbindex.htm)

ARC => Association of Rover Clubs

ARC clubs hold Trials and Competitive Safaris that require roll-cages, 
and the regulations specify the minimum requirements for the building, 
and mounting, of those cages.

- -- 
           --==**==--
Ian Stuart - EDINA, DataLibrary, University computing services.
- ---------------------------------
A man depriving some village, somewhere, of a first-class idiot
- ---------------------------------
http://lucas.ucs.ed.ac.uk/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 05:32:07 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Tom Sheppards Recessed Lashing Cleats

So, anyone up to doing some metal forming and welding?

clinton

Depends on the job...wussit look like?

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 05:46:17 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Missing Front Drive Shaft

John, who did you buy this from?

More the point, was there any representation of operability made? Honestly,
with what it's going to cost you to put this beast back together I'd go
find me the previous owner and do some damage to his wallet. Admittedly
3250 isn't a ton of money for this car (just paid ~6K for one and thought
myself well treated) but this is going to be pricey...

I have a full front axle from a 90 Range Rover in my parts bin...where are
you?

                         Alan

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 07:33:36 -0400
From: "Matthew Wilson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: source for generator screws?

Hey Jim,
  I responded to that guy Hank about the screws over a week ago and he
hasn't replied to me yet.  So if I could bug you to check and see if you
have some of those screws, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks,
Matthew

- -----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
Behalf Of Jim Hall
Sent: 06 June, 2001 1:13
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: source for generator screws?

Did you find genny screws yet? I may have some if not. I'm just not sure
if mine are from a c-40.

Matthew Wilson wrote:
>
> Firstoff, belated thanks to those listmembers that gave me advice on
sealing
> the sph.  I now have the thing apart again, but I'm puzzled as to why the
> seal is a little loose in there.  I tried an AB and an RN (genuine) seal,
> both have the same wobble...I wonder if the housing is deformed
> somehow...strange.
>
> Next question, I rebuilt the generator (Lucas c-40) over the weekend.  I
> cobbled together one that spins freely from the remains of mine and
another
> collection of parts.  However, while disassembling mine, I broke those two
> long screws that go through the generator body and hold the end brackets
> together.  Does anyone have a spare two that they would be willing to part
> with?
>
> Thanks,
> Matthew

- --
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 06:14:48 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: source for generator screws?

Ok, I'll let you know by this evening.

Matthew Wilson wrote:
> 
> Hey Jim,
>   I responded to that guy Hank about the screws over a week ago and he
> hasn't replied to me yet.  So if I could bug you to check and see if you
> have some of those screws, I'd appreciate it.
> Thanks,
> Matthew
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
> Behalf Of Jim Hall
> Sent: 06 June, 2001 1:13
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: LRO: source for generator screws?
> 
> Did you find genny screws yet? I may have some if not. I'm just not sure
> if mine are from a c-40.
> 
> Matthew Wilson wrote:
> >
> > Firstoff, belated thanks to those listmembers that gave me advice on
> sealing
> > the sph.  I now have the thing apart again, but I'm puzzled as to why the
> > seal is a little loose in there.  I tried an AB and an RN (genuine) seal,
> > both have the same wobble...I wonder if the housing is deformed
> > somehow...strange.
> >
> > Next question, I rebuilt the generator (Lucas c-40) over the weekend.  I
> > cobbled together one that spins freely from the remains of mine and
> another
> > collection of parts.  However, while disassembling mine, I broke those two
> > long screws that go through the generator body and hold the end brackets
> > together.  Does anyone have a spare two that they would be willing to part
> > with?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Matthew
> 
> --
> Jim Hall
> 1966 88" Elephant Chaser
> http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
> "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
> with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 08:31:53 -0500
From: Lee Dunkelberg <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: FWIW (pardon cross post)

A quote from
http://www.freelander.com/content/freelander/freelander_heritage.jsp
"In 1948, Land Rover was begun with a simple idea:  build a "go anywhere, do
anything" vehicle that would capture the world's imagination.  That first
vehicle -- now known as the DEFENDER (emphasis added) -- accomplished its
mission."
Cheers!
     Lee Dunkelberg
          San Antonio, Texas
*	1995 - Range Rover LWB Silver Edition
*	1994 - Defender 90 AA Yellow (of course)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 09:45:47 -0400
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE:  Guinness

Frank said:

Kirk, you didn't write English, you wrote British.
 Scots, Welsh and English are British, Irish are Irish.
 
Heard a cute ad this AM on the radio for a pub here in Richmond, Va:

The owner of this fine establishment comes on, and in his genuine, best
Cockney accent says:

"Penny Lane Bri-ish Pub...A bit of auffentic Bri-ish food; Bangers and Mash,
roight, Shepards Pie, Pasties", roight, ... 

(yadda yadda...here comes the cute part) 

"Many Bri-ish beer styles on tap, roight, Bitters, Ales, Stouts, well over a
dozen in aull, roight, includin' 6 Bri-ish, 2 Scau-ish, 2 Irish and ... 
...2 American beers for the designated drivers! Roight!"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 01 06:52:23 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Missing Front Drive Shaft

>Anyone know where I can locate some manuals and spare parts
>for this 88 Range Rover?

You have one of the major mail order Land Rover parts houses in your area 
(Near Magic Mountain), British Pacific.  They'll have manuals & parts.

www.britishpacific.com

Their web site may be a bit flakey today and tommorrow (13 & 14), I'm 
going to be replacing a large number of pages and graphics.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 10:09:25 -0400
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Engine/Trans Swap

I have not been following this thread from the beginning so this may 
be a little off topic, but regarding forced air induction for the 
Rover 2.25. Jeff Ham from Virginia was working on just such a system 
and had a prototype running on his Series beast at the 1998 
Mid-Atlantic Rally. It used a small Mistubishi Supercharger. I 
believe development of the system continues...

jeff
- -- 
==
  Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                     [email-masked]
                      ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 10:28:50 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Engine/Trans Swap

Jeff Ham from Virginia was working on just such a system
and had a prototype running on his Series beast at the 1998
Mid-Atlantic Rally. It used a small Mistubishi Supercharger. I
believe development of the system continues...

I remember this unit - he had the turbo head (minus the exhaust-side
plumbing) belted to a small electric motor. On-demand compressor, in other
words. Saw it at the infamous AB "We're moving so come clean the warehouse"
rally...

He said that the performance increase was quite noticeable when the
compressor was kicked in.

                    aj"Turbo boost - what is this  - "Knight Rider"?"r

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 15:24:29 +0100
From: "Phil Norris" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Guinness (was Acetone and Rain-X)

I think I know this one, 1pt of NBA, 1/2 pt glass.  1/2 bottle in glass half
leftin bottle to keep from going flat.
Personally don't touch the stuff since I found what a chemical soup it is
rather than a proper beer like Guiness or theakstons/blacksheep/TimTaylor
etc...
Am I right?
PhilN
- -----Original Message-----
From: Frank Elson <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
Date: 12 June 2001 20:13
Subject: Re: LRO: Guinness (was Acetone and Rain-X)

>Ajr writes: <<<Newcastle Brown Ale <<<
>
>OK guys, what's the 'odd' thing about serving Newkie Brown?
>
>(there is no prize btw)
>Best Cheers
>
>Frank
>    +--+--+--+
>     I !__|  [_]|_\___
>     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
>     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 01 07:39:55 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Missing Front Drive Shaft

>Call British Pacific, in Burbank.  They can sell you manuals and new parts,
>and may well know where the used stuff is. 818 841-8945/800 554-4133

They have moved to a bigger place near Magic Mountain

26007 Huntington Lane
 Unit 2
Valencia, CA 91355

661-257-8634

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 01 07:51:13 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Engine/Trans Swap

>I have not been following this thread from the beginning so this may 
>be a little off topic, but regarding forced air induction for the 
>Rover 2.25. Jeff Ham from Virginia was working on just such a system 
>and had a prototype running on his Series beast at the 1998 
>Mid-Atlantic Rally. It used a small Mistubishi Supercharger. I 
>believe development of the system continues...

Me hopes he is using a five main bearing engine and not a 3 main engine.  
Rover spent the money to redesign the bottom end for more strength when 
they put a turbo on the diesel version for a reason.

TeriAnn         
                      http://www.overlander.net

  The world's most complete set of links connecting Rover 4X4 owners
  with Rover parts, service, accessory & sales companies world wide.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 10:54:38 -0400
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Rain-X, the final step...

Forgot about the final final step until yesterday morning. Be sure to 
keep a clean towel in the truck until after your first rainstorm. 
You'll probably want to do another buffing (to remove spots and 
streaks) once the windshield has been wetted down...

Jeff
- -- 
==
  Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                     [email-masked]
                      ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 08:45:53 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: front t-case output seal.

Did this job last night.  Thought "I need to change the tranny and t-case
fluid anyway, so I'll drain them now so that I don't get oil all over me
changing that seal."  Then I drained them.  Then I filled them!
When I got the propshaft off I remembered I'd refilled the t-case.  Oh
well, it'll drip a bit.  Place oil thing under it.
Attack the cotter pin.  Clearly this tranny (off a parts truck) was the
winning entry in a "how big a cotter pin can you stuff in this hole"
contest.  The thing was HUGE!  I had to break it, hacksaw it, and
eventually, drill through it lengthwise to get the bugger out.

Got the flange out only to find the leather seal was IN THERE.  No hope
at all of wedging it out w/ a screwdriver.

So off comes the front output housing, a bugger to get at, for sure. 
Those nuts ain't 1/2 and they ain't 9/16".  Fortunately 13mm fit 'em
perfectly.  the upper right one leaves you no space for removal so I had
to cut my 13mm wrench in half to use the box end on it and actually be
able to turn it (advantage of buying crap tools is you don't feel bad
doing this).

Once the housing was off I had to beat the living heck out of that seal
to get it out--even from behind.  Good thing I pulled the housing when I
did instead of wrestling in futility any longer.

Housing and new seal are back on, will order a speedi sleeve for my
output flange today.

bill

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 11:04:26 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Engine/Trans Swap

>turbo on the diesel version

Nope - this was a 3 main bearing engine with a planed head - believe it was
almost 9:1.

The Diesel needed the exrtra help - but that compression is what - 25:1 -
30:1?

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 11:05:29 -0400
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Engine/Trans Swap

>Me hopes he is using a five main bearing engine and not a 3 main engine. 
>Rover spent the money to redesign the bottom end for more strength when
>they put a turbo on the diesel version for a reason.

I'm guessing he is. Jeff is a pretty meticulous guy.

jab
- -- 
==                                                                   
  Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT        
                     [email-masked]
                      ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life, 
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 11:13:25 -0400
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Turbo or Supercharge was  Re: Engine/Trans Swap

How about a variable speed supercharger drive with electronic speed control
tied into the boost pressure and driving conditions.
This way the boost could be fairly high at low rpm to promote high torques
required for crawling around without stalling. At higher rpm the boost could
be limited to prevent overstressing the engine.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 11:16:38 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: front t-case output seal.

>Those nuts ain't 1/2 and they ain't 9/16".  Fortunately 13mm fit 'em
>perfectly.

WHITWORTH....5/16 if I remember correctly....

Re: Seal from Hell:

There is a seal remover tool that is perfect for jobs like this - and not
expensive either. It's basically a hook with a big fraggin' lever on it -
allows some serious leverage to yank seals.

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 11:19:25 -0400
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Turbo or Supercharge was  Re: Engine/Trans Swap

Screw the whole engine thing, go electric.  Tons of torque, lowest gearing
you could imagine.

Matt

- -----Original Message-----
From: Easton Trevor A [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2001 11:13 AM
To: [email-masked]'
Subject: LRO: Turbo or Supercharge was Re: Engine/Trans Swap

How about a variable speed supercharger drive with electronic speed control
tied into the boost pressure and driving conditions.
This way the boost could be fairly high at low rpm to promote high torques
required for crawling around without stalling. At higher rpm the boost could
be limited to prevent overstressing the engine.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 10:37:01 -0500
From: "Brian F. Waltman" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: front t-case output seal.

I just finished doing the same thing.  Set of metric wrenches size 10mm to
15mm at local cheaper tool store, $5.53; Ability to attack those nuts on
Front output casing, priceless.

I have now figured out why my truck was getting such lousy gas milage, the
4WD was engaged permanently in high ratio due to rust on the selector shaft.
I will be sanding alittle rust off the shaft this weekend and putting her
back together.  Hope for better gas milage.

Anyone know the size of the front and rear output shaft seals?  Is there a
alternative part number from another vehicle I could use to buy them
locally?

Thanks,

Brian Waltman

"Those nuts ain't 1/2 and they ain't 9/16"....."  This very quote could be
heard coming from my garage last week as well!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 13:23:01 -0400
From: "Sergi, Michael" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Annoying Door Chime

Be careful.  Disconnecting it may make the 4wheel low stop working.  True
story.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Carl Kinkade [mailto:[email-masked]]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 2:57 PM
> To: [email-masked]; [email-masked]
> Subject: LRO: Annoying Door Chime
> 
> 
> Hey Group,
> 
> My 1995 RR just started an annoying noise.  Normally when you 
> start the
> vehicle, there is 3 chimes, but now on the third chime it doesn't go
> off.....talking about driving you crazy!!! I wouldn't mind just
> disconnecting it, but I can't find it.  I did figure out that 
> the fuse for
> it is number 12, but number 12 is also for a lot of other things.
> 
> Any help would be very appreciated, this noise is driving me crazy.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Carl
> '95 RR LWB
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 12:54:49 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Turbo or Supercharge was  Re: Engine/Trans Swap

Screw the whole engine thing, go electric.  Tons of torque, lowest gearing
you could imagine.

Matt

Go ahead, Matt. it would be perfect for the driveway - and we could even
paint "Power WHeels" on it for you.....

                    aj"Not in my truck, thank'ee..."r

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 12:48:00 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: front t-case output seal.

"Those nuts ain't 1/2 and they ain't 9/16"....."  This very quote could be
heard coming from my garage last week as well!

To paraphrase you earlier statement:

Whitworth socket and combination wrench sets at an autojumble in Yorkshire:

L10/each.

Ability to actually undo things w/o cursing:
Priceless...

          aj"The right socket helps....and a Loooong extension...."r

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 12:36:21 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Turbo or Supercharge was  Re: Engine/Trans Swap

On Wed, 13 Jun 2001, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:

:
:Screw the whole engine thing, go electric.  Tons of torque, lowest gearing
:you could imagine.
:
:Matt
:
:Go ahead, Matt. it would be perfect for the driveway - and we could even
:paint "Power WHeels" on it for you.....
:
:                    aj"Not in my truck, thank'ee..."r

I don't know, al, a gas turbine driven generator, battery packs, and wheel
motors ought to be lighter than the 2.25 and rover tranny.  I'm sure it
would be at least as fast.  Anyone want to lend me a million bucks to build
the prototype?

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 22:33:13 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: True Brits (was Guiness)

you're not a million miles out Clinton.
 But there is a difference between 'the' British and 'a' Briton...and the
country the 'mob' came over to is Britain...

did your cousin in law explain why the Welsh are the only true Britons?
 It's 'cos when the Romans arrived they retreated to the mountains of Wales
and hid themselves.
 The rest had a bit of a fight, lost and were still around when the Vikings
(my ancestors) appeared, and when the Angles, Saxons (and Jutes, everyone
forgets the Jutes) and then the Normans arrived.
 Well this lot got to partying and nature took its course.
 Meanwhile the Welsh/Britons were still hiding in their caves, frightened to
come out. Of course nature still had to take it's course - which is why
there are only a handful of surnames in Wales :-)>

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Coates, Clinton <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2001 6:15 PM
Subject: LRO: True Brits (was Guiness)

> Somebody wrote that the Scots, English and Welsh were British, but not the
> Irish?  I have a cousin in law from Wales (a Jones...) who has informed me
> that "...the Welsh are the only true Britons...".  The term English is an
> evolved form of Angleisch (or some version of this spelling) which comes
> from the Angles, one of the Teutonic mob that came over to Briton in the
> 400s and onwards.  Hence, Anglo-Saxon...  It seems there was a Welsh king
> named Arthur or Artur or Artursus or somesuch who took umbrage with this
and
> tried to kick them out, to no avail...
>
> I am sure someone with a better grasp of history and archaeo-linguistics
> could pin me down on some of the dates and details, but in broad strokes,
I
> think that comes close.
>
> Funny, all those good Anglo Saxon Britons from Robin Hood's time were
being
> put upon by Normans, who were nothing more than a bunch of hopped up
> Vikings, another Germanic crowd.
>
> Gotta love history!
>
> Clinton
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 13:38:14 -0600
From: Rick Grant <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Land Rover Price in 1959?

Would anyone happen to know the approximate price in North America of a 
Series II in 1959 or thereabouts?

The reason I ask is that I got chatting with a Disco driver today who 
remarked that my rather time worn but reeking of character Series II 
probably cost the equivalent in 1959 of a Discovery today.  I'd like to 
check that.

                                             Rick Grant

  				  1959 Series II   "88"
				  VORIZO

Rick Grant Communications
Media and Crisis Management
Calgary Ottawa
www.rickgrant.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 12:57:09 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: On being British

In a recent short post about the British, I made 
a statement to the effect that the British don't take 
an Irishman seriously unless the Irishman is armed.  
Perhaps I should have put a :-) after that comment.  
I was trusting that you lot would read it with the 
humor that was intended, but perhaps not.  So before 
anyone rips off a reply accusing me of being anti-Irish, 
let me assure you I was simply quoting an old 
joke, not making some sort of political statement.

Actually, I stole the thing verbatim from a book I read 
by the travel writer Paul Theroux, on his 
journey in the mid-1980s around the coast of Great 
Britain.  The book is called "The Kingdom by the 
Sea," and it's worth reading if you enjoy the 
cultures and personalities that comprise the UK.

Anyway, if anyone by chance did take offense at the 
statement, none was intended.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 14:07:49 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: front t-case output seal.

Brian,
You can check the OVLR FAQ--go to ovlr.org then look for the FAQ.  Then
go to the series index, then pick repairs, then look at alternative parts
numbers.

BUT I tried this and, though I could get the pinion seal locally,
CarQuest couldn't find anything still produced for the t-case output.

bill

On Wed, 13 Jun 2001 10:37:01 -0500 "Brian F. Waltman" <[email-masked]>
writes:
> I just finished doing the same thing.  Set of metric wrenches size 
> 10mm to
> 15mm at local cheaper tool store, $5.53; Ability to attack those 
> nuts on
> Front output casing, priceless.
> 
> I have now figured out why my truck was getting such lousy gas 
> milage, the
> 4WD was engaged permanently in high ratio due to rust on the 
> selector shaft.
> I will be sanding alittle rust off the shaft this weekend and 
> putting her
> back together.  Hope for better gas milage.
> 
> Anyone know the size of the front and rear output shaft seals?  Is 
> there a
> alternative part number from another vehicle I could use to buy 
> them
> locally?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Brian Waltman
> 
> "Those nuts ain't 1/2 and they ain't 9/16"....."  This very quote 
> could be
> heard coming from my garage last week as well!
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 16:22:43 -0400
From: Tate Crumbley <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Land Rover Price in 1959?

Last Sunday, the Washington DC Post Car Pages featured a 1963 Series II 
Station Wagon in their "The Wheels of Time" column. There was a picture of 
someone's truck and a small writeup. The price listed there was $3925, with 
median family income of $6249. I'd say the modern comparison might be 
possible to make.

On another note, the write up says this: "The Land Rover, like the American 
Jeep, came into prominence in WWII. After the war, Rover introduced a 
civilian line of land Rovers that ...".

I thought that '48 was the first year they were made, several years after 
the war. Were there military vehicles made during the war? From what I 
know, a letter to the editor might be in order, but I leave that to those 
better versed in Rover history.

Tate

At 01:38 PM 6/13/2001 -0600, you wrote:

>Would anyone happen to know the approximate price in North America of a 
>Series II in 1959 or thereabouts?
>
>The reason I ask is that I got chatting with a Disco driver today who 
>remarked that my rather time worn but reeking of character Series II 
>probably cost the equivalent in 1959 of a Discovery today.  I'd like to 
>check that.
>
>
>
>                                             Rick Grant
>
>                                   1959 Series II   "88"
>                                   VORIZO
>
>
>
>Rick Grant Communications
>Media and Crisis Management
>Calgary Ottawa
>www.rickgrant.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 10:47:18 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Land Rover Price in 1959?

Auto pricing has managed to outpace the rate of inflation.  The dollar is 
worth approximately 1/4th the value it had in the early '60s.  If we take a 
VW Bug as an example, the MSRP AND selling price was approximately $1,800.  
That would translate into a today's price of $7,200.  Less than half what a 
new Beatle costs.

Of course you get a bit more in performance, handling, fuel economy, 
comfort, standard features, and safety in todays auto.  Its hard to compare 
'60s era auto's with today's as the old ones were so basic and primitive.  
The Series Rover is a prime example.  In the old days, most cars came with 
no electronics.  Electrics were limited and not installed on most cars, 
other than an AM radio.  Air conditioning was available but most cars 
weren't equipped.  Most American cars were automatics but not in pickups 
and, if available, were jerkomatic performance cancelors in foreign cars.  
Lap seat belts were options, if available at all, and were just about the 
only safety feature.  It wasn't until the '60s that cars were designed so as 
not to injure the occupants in a crash.  Before that, it seemed like the 
stylists purpose was to injure, not to protect, the occupants.  Tires were 
bias ply with a life expectancy of around 20,000 miles.  You could get fancy 
hubcaps but no alloy wheels.  Brakes were universally drum type, even on a 
'Vette for American Cars.  Handling was a euphemism for wallowing, foam 
rubber like, over undualtions in the road.  Forget trying to create high g 
turns as body roll, frame twist and lack of suspension control made, 
anything but straight line, driving a frustrating experience.  Foreign cars 
did handle better but suspensions were typically so stiff that a minor bump 
could throw the car out of control.  The 356 Porsche was about the only car 
that would handle well on rough roads and it had it's own uniquley 
interesting handling quirks.  Service intervals were 1500 miles and major 
services at 6,000 miles.  Suffice it to say, comparing '60s autos to current 
is comparing apples to oranges.

Having said all the above, I lament the passing of truly utilitarian 
functional vehicles.  Love the metal dash on an old Bug.  What a joy it used 
to be to lift the hood and actually see an engine.  Even better to work on, 
which was good, since you'd have to.  Miss having to plan an exit strategy, 
in my MGA, before entering a high speed turn just in case the rear axle lost 
contact with the ground because of a lump in the road.  Roll up windows 
marked the demise of truly interesting auto's.  Cars have truly become 
appliances and most with the soul of a toaster.

Oh yes, what were we talking about??  No definitive answer, though think it 
was right around $3,000 for a brand new 88.  You could also buy a tricked 
out chevy Impala coupe for that price.

>From: Rick Grant <[email-masked]>
>Would anyone happen to know the approximate price in North America of a
>Series II in 1959 or thereabouts?
>
>The reason I ask is that I got chatting with a Disco driver today who 
>remarked that my rather time worn but reeking of character Series II 
>probably cost the equivalent in 1959 of a Discovery today.  I'd like to 
>check that.
Rick Grant
1959 Series II   "88"
VORIZO

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------------------------------

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