Use 101 adhesive sealant, (think dow is the mfg.) or a polysulfide caulk
like LifeCaulk on the overlap between the new and old section. Don't use
sillycone or typical house caulks as they don't stick well, get a marine
sealant/adhesive caulk. That stuff is as close to permanent as you can get,
remains plyable and sticks tenaciously so will seal out water intrusion and
stop corrosion in this area. Rivets spaced fairly closely together will
give very high strength. You don't need anything else. Brazing over the
above fix, will probably burn out the sealant and create problems.
Incidentally, there are pop rivets and there are pop rivets. Get blind ones
that are high strength like steel ones and dip them in sealant before
putting them in place and setting them.
Don't make your job more than it has to be.
Did I read that right, your quote was $675 to have the footwells welded??
Seems a trifle pricey.
Aloha
Peter O
>From: Michael Hatton <mhatton@compt.com>
>Reply-To: lro@works.team.net
>To: <lro@Works.Team.Net>
>Subject: Re: LRO: Replacing footwells
>Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 17:40:13 -0400
>
>How about this.....
>If I rivet the footwells in and then braze the overlaps for a more
>permanent seal. I am only replacing the bottom half of the toe boards and
>the side
>kick panels. Most of these are substantially OK, so I can get a good
>overlap. Welding quote was CA$ 675! The few times I have got stuff welded
>they have done an atrocious stuff, and the people I can trust are way too
>busy.
>
>Michael Hatton
>
>On Sun, 10 Jun 2001, Peter Ogilvie wrote:
>
> > Haven't any first hand experience but a number of people have riveted in
>the
> > replacement footwells. Use some kind of permanent marine sealant where
>the
> > parts overlap, drill and pop. Riveting will be nearly as strong as
>welding.
> > If you don't know how to weld and don't have the equipment, you won't
>have
> > to develop a talent you may not have an aptititude for or spend the
>money on
> > a welder. You could hire the welding but believe welders charge by the
>inch
> > and footwells have a lot of inches to weld. So, unless you weld
>yourself or
> > have a friend who works for beer, riveting has its strong points.
> >
> > Aloha
> > Peter O.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <Alan_Richer@Lotus.com>
> > > Anyone have any tips on brazing in replacement footwells, I am
> > >hoping to start on this next week, so that I can continue with the
> > >frameover.
> > >Yup - brazing is right out on structural steel (which anything attached
>to
> > >the bulkhead is) Find a weldor and save yourself a lot of grief.
> > >
> > >Brazes, because they are not metal fusion, will crack and fail. Not a
>good
> > >idea....also against the law in inspection depending on the state.
> > >
> > >I've seen brazed repairs after a while - one 88 I bought had brazed-on
> > >outriggers - which had cracked along 3 sides and were peeling off the
>frame
> > >underneath. The brazing had failed...not the metal substrate. That
>frame
> > >got scrapped in a big hurry....
> > >
> > >If you do all the prep and fitting getting the stuff welded should be
>cheap
> > >enough...
> > > ajr
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
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