Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #396

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 15:10:44 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Tuesday, June 5 2001 Volume 01 : Number 396

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 22:17:37 -0400
From: Nick Danger <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RoverFest, August : CT Convoy?

Is anyone from CT going to Roverfest in August? Having only had the rover for 
less then a year this would be my first event, and also the first drive that 
was over a hour :-) So if theres a train headed north, I'd like to know if I 
can get on it! Uhh.. just in case...

- -Nick

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 21:25:32 -0500
From: "Andrew H. Litkowiak" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Big Sky Rover? Need you input

Has anyone out here dealt with Big Sky Rover in Montana?

Please share your experiences, good, bad or neutral.

Andy Litkowiak

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 23:17:35 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Series IIa on a Defender chassis?

some 110s came with the 2.5L and even 2.25L engines, but all had either the LT77, LT77s, R380, or LT95 gearbox. and they all had the LT230 transfer case.    So the only piece of your drivetrain that would "bolt in" to a stock defender 110 chassis in the engine.  this engine will also bolt to the 5 spd of that era.  my question for you is WHY???  the only thing you would be gaining out of a 110 chassis swap is coil springs, which can be done a lot easier and cheaper using a coil chassis from Designa Chassis.  To use a 110 frame, you would also either have to shorten the frame by 1", or fit a defender back body, roof sides, and roof panel.

its not worth it, IMO

adam

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 21:33:59 -0600
From: "Ross Maylor" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Frames, Civilian vs Military

Andy,
My 109 chassis is an ex military 1978, or so, Series III. Although
originally a pickup I put a '62 SII station wagon body with a 67 SIIa
bulkhead on it. If I had left it a truck there would have been no
modifications that I could tell.

Regards
Ross Maylor

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 23:44:36 -0400
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RoverFest, August : CT Convoy?

>Is anyone from CT going to Roverfest in August? Having only had the rover for
>less then a year this would be my first event, and also the first drive that
>was over a hour :-) So if theres a train headed north, I'd like to know if I
>can get on it! Uhh.. just in case...
>
>-Nick

I might be going. Depends on work--may leave late on Friday...

jeff
- -- 
==
  Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                     [email-masked]
                      ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 21:01:27 -0700
From: aaron <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Santana brakes from Canada?

Somebody mentioned a Santana disk brake set up from Can.for $720.
Who do you order this from??
Thanks in advance,
Aaron
69 2a 88

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 06:50:22 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Series IIa on a Defender chassis?

from Designa Chassis.  To use a 110 frame, you would also either have to
shorten the frame by 1", or fit a defender back body, roof sides, and roof
panel.

I know the wheel base is one inch longer, but is the frame itself exactly 1"
longer also?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 19:10:28 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Series IIa on a Defender chassis?

The 90 is a 93" wheel base probably to accomodate the longer 5 speed 
transmission and not require a mini drive shaft, among other reasons.  No 
such need on the 110 so is it really a 110" wheel base.  Wouldn't be 
surprized if the 110 was just a warmed over 109" frame.

Aloha
Peter

>From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: <[email-masked]>
>Subject: Re: LRO: Series IIa on a Defender chassis?
>Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 06:50:22 -1000
>
>from Designa Chassis.  To use a 110 frame, you would also either have to
>shorten the frame by 1", or fit a defender back body, roof sides, and roof
>panel.
>
>
>I know the wheel base is one inch longer, but is the frame itself exactly 
>1"
>longer also?
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 11:10:12 +0100 (BST)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Robert=20Ries?= <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: attracting attention

>Yes, a Series Rover seems to attract overt attention from the 
>Ladies, but 
>I'm not sure that term accurately describes them.

>Aloha
>Peter Ogilvie
>Kona Coffee Rover

Peter, methinks thou dost protest too much.  Or maybe yer
starting to show your age?  (shades of Marin ;>))  )  Any woman
who actually wants to ride in B.D. is presumed to be a lady
until proven otherwise.  And I highly encourage that.  

=====
Robert D. Ries
SSgt, USAF
Burwell, England
"With friends like these..."

____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.co.uk address at http://mail.yahoo.co.uk
or your free @yahoo.ie address at http://mail.yahoo.ie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 11:32:15 +0100
From: "Andy Woodward" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Frame bushings

\  You'll need to lash up a tool to draw the new bush back into the 
\frame, if 
\your putting stock bushes back in.  I use a long bolt, some surplus 
\shackles 
\and a bunch of washers of appropriate size for spacers.  Keep 
\cranking on 
\the nut, loosening and adding washers, and cranking, etc. till the 
\bush is 
\back in place.  Have heard but not verified that Polubushes are in 
\two 
\pieces and have no outer sleeve so go in and come out way easier.

I've just discovered that I can bread the bead on my motocycle tyre 
easily and quickly by judicious bashing with a heavy rubber mallet. 
Previously to this it was an hour odf straining and cursing with a 
huge C-clamp and a 3 foot prybar. 

So. Why couldnt you just gently bash hte bushes in with a rubber 
mallet?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 06:51:50 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Frame bushings

So. Why couldnt you just gently bash hte bushes in with a rubber
mallet?

Well.....you can - but it doesn't work all that well.

Part of the reason that your tyre comes off in response to a good bashing
is because there's some stretch and give in the tyre bead. WIth a chassis
bushing there is NO (or little) give  - it's a steel tube in a steel tube.

In that setup it's easiest to give a firm pull to unseat and seat them - it
just works better that way. I ended up building a tool for this job from
some heavy-walled tubing and a large Acme-thread screw.

Lubrication also helps big time - slathering the bushing in anti-seize
works well.

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 07:40:36 -0400
From: "KURT W. KRAUSS" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Tires - oops - Tyres

I am going to replace the non matching set of rubber on my NAS 1973 SIII
with original 15 in. wheels.  With all the hoopla these days about
tires, any recommendations?  I would like the original look of black
tires rather than the replacements in front that say "BF Goodrich All
Terrain" in white - a bit too Ford Exploder for me.  I'm sure this has
been the subject of many threads and please accept my apologies.  If you
prefer, contact me off the list.  Thanks.
Kurt Krauss
1973 Series III

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 09:00:21 -0400 
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: So I pull in the parking lot here at work....

and park right next to another 88".  Fred Dushin decided to park outside
with the peions and now it's the beginnings of a Rover meet!  

Definitely a good start to the day...

Matt Peckham
74 Lightweight.
        _____
  ||===|||  | \ 
 _||___|||__|__\_{EE}_
 |  ____         ____ \
 | /    \       /    \|)
[||( () )\_____|( () )[ ]
~~~~\~~/~~~~~~~~~\~~/~~~~~~~~~

www.crossmember.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 08:00:29 -0500
From: "Brian F. Waltman" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Engine run up

Hello All,

Well, I finally got the transmission out of the rover last night.  After
much input, I finally decided to go with the method described in the green
bible, so out the top she came.

I am now in the process of trying to determine where the waterfall oil leak
is coming from.  She was leaking oil very badly through the drain hole in
the bell housing and between where the bell housing and engine meet.  I
think it is just the tranny leaking, but it could be the rear main seal.  My
question is:  With the transmission removed, is it OK to start and run the
engine long enough to determine if the rear main seal is leaking?  I realize
that without the tranny on, there is no load on the crank shaft, and that
this can cause a problem in some cars.

Any suggestions would be appreciated,

Brian
1969 Series IIa 88" (minus one transmission,and plus alot of gear oil!)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 09:16:18 -0400
From: "Lee Jones" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Tires - oops - Tyres

Ummm..  Perhaps you could put the white letters on the backside of the
wheels?

Lee

- -----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
Behalf Of KURT W. KRAUSS
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2001 7:41 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Tires - oops - Tyres

I am going to replace the non matching set of rubber on my NAS 1973 SIII
with original 15 in. wheels.  With all the hoopla these days about
tires, any recommendations?  I would like the original look of black
tires rather than the replacements in front that say "BF Goodrich All
Terrain" in white - a bit too Ford Exploder for me.  I'm sure this has
been the subject of many threads and please accept my apologies.  If you
prefer, contact me off the list.  Thanks.
Kurt Krauss
1973 Series III

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 06:55:58 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Tires - oops - Tyres

No need to get the tyres mounted cheezy-sidewalls-out.  BFGs, for
instance, have white letters on one side, and raised black letters on the
other.  Last set of BFG MTs I got, I specifically told the tire shop
dudes to mount them white side in, and I went out to the bay to drive
away to find nice blue letters pointing out all around.  I just about
fell over.  Needless to say, I spent a little more time at the shop that
afternoon while they remounted everything.  Can't give any size
recommendations for 15" rims--are you going w/ them b/c you're doing a
concourse resto?  If not, I'd say pitch 'em and put 16" on.  They're way
more functional, not to mention better looking.

bill

On Tue, 05 Jun 2001 07:40:36 -0400 "KURT W. KRAUSS" <[email-masked]>
writes:
> I am going to replace the non matching set of rubber on my NAS 1973 
> SIII
> with original 15 in. wheels.  With all the hoopla these days about
> tires, any recommendations?  I would like the original look of 
> black
> tires rather than the replacements in front that say "BF Goodrich 
> All
> Terrain" in white - a bit too Ford Exploder for me.  I'm sure this 
> has
> been the subject of many threads and please accept my apologies.  If 
> you
> prefer, contact me off the list.  Thanks.
> Kurt Krauss
> 1973 Series III
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 10:20:29 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: Tires - oops - Tyres

Thats no problem. Just install the tires black wall out.
John and Muddy

"KURT W. KRAUSS" wrote:
> 
> I am going to replace the non matching set of rubber on my NAS 1973 SIII
> with original 15 in. wheels.  With all the hoopla these days about
> tires, any recommendations?  I would like the original look of black
> tires rather than the replacements in front that say "BF Goodrich All
> Terrain" in white - a bit too Ford Exploder for me.  I'm sure this has
> been the subject of many threads and please accept my apologies.  If you
> prefer, contact me off the list.  Thanks.
> Kurt Krauss
> 1973 Series III

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 10:22:24 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: Engine run up

Start it up but remember to secure the back of the engine or the fan
might hit the rad.
John and Muddy

"Brian F. Waltman" wrote:
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> Well, I finally got the transmission out of the rover last night.  After
> much input, I finally decided to go with the method described in the green
> bible, so out the top she came.
> 
> I am now in the process of trying to determine where the waterfall oil leak
> is coming from.  She was leaking oil very badly through the drain hole in
> the bell housing and between where the bell housing and engine meet.  I
> think it is just the tranny leaking, but it could be the rear main seal.  My
> question is:  With the transmission removed, is it OK to start and run the
> engine long enough to determine if the rear main seal is leaking?  I realize
> that without the tranny on, there is no load on the crank shaft, and that
> this can cause a problem in some cars.
> 
> Any suggestions would be appreciated,
> 
> Brian
> 1969 Series IIa 88" (minus one transmission,and plus alot of gear oil!)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 09:28:42 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: So I pull in the parking lot here at work....

>and park right next to another 88".  Fred Dushin decided to park outside
>with the peions and now it's the beginnings of a Rover meet!

Matt, don't tempt me to run down at lunch in Miss Jessica - she's right
here outside my window....

                    aj"Party at Matt's Place!"r

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 09:31:02 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Engine run up

As long as the flywheel is there the engine can be safely run at idle. Just
make sure that the back of the engine is blocked up to the right angle to
prevent the fan digging into the radiator.

Dumb question - did you smell the oil coming out the drain? Did it smell
like 90-weight or engine oil? THis could tell you right off who's leaking -
though if you have stripped bolts in the throwout bearing housing it's a
good bet it's leaking from that gasket.

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 09:30:34 -0400 
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Tires - oops - Tyres

If you are looking for a good tire to go offroading with, and you don't mind
a little extremem looks, you should take a gander at the Super Swamper Trxus
tyres.

I got a set for my 15" Xterra rims, in 31x10.5x15 for $106 a piece.  They
are a brand new tread design and blend a bit of the Goodyear MTR ($160ish)
mith a good old fashioned mud terrain, and then add siping, and top it all
off with a hellacious sidewall tread.  I used them last weekend at 16-12lbs
of pressure in the Pennsylvania rocks and coal hills of Shamokin and I
couldn't stop them.  and no worries of white walls, they don't make
whitewalls.

I got them from www.tyres.com and have been very pleased.  They are not for
the concourse restoration, but I bet they are quieter than a lot of the
tores out there.

They just announced a bunch of new sizes at www.intercotire.com

Matt Peckham
74 Lightweight.
        _____
  ||===|||  | \ 
 _||___|||__|__\_{EE}_
 |  ____         ____ \
 | /    \       /    \|)
[||( () )\_____|( () )[ ]
~~~~\~~/~~~~~~~~~\~~/~~~~~~~~~

www.crossmember.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: William J. Rice [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2001 8:56 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Tires - oops - Tyres

No need to get the tyres mounted cheezy-sidewalls-out.  BFGs, for
instance, have white letters on one side, and raised black letters on the
other.  Last set of BFG MTs I got, I specifically told the tire shop
dudes to mount them white side in, and I went out to the bay to drive
away to find nice blue letters pointing out all around.  I just about
fell over.  Needless to say, I spent a little more time at the shop that
afternoon while they remounted everything.  Can't give any size
recommendations for 15" rims--are you going w/ them b/c you're doing a
concourse resto?  If not, I'd say pitch 'em and put 16" on.  They're way
more functional, not to mention better looking.

bill

On Tue, 05 Jun 2001 07:40:36 -0400 "KURT W. KRAUSS" <[email-masked]>
writes:
> I am going to replace the non matching set of rubber on my NAS 1973 
> SIII
> with original 15 in. wheels.  With all the hoopla these days about
> tires, any recommendations?  I would like the original look of 
> black
> tires rather than the replacements in front that say "BF Goodrich 
> All
> Terrain" in white - a bit too Ford Exploder for me.  I'm sure this 
> has
> been the subject of many threads and please accept my apologies.  If 
> you
> prefer, contact me off the list.  Thanks.
> Kurt Krauss
> 1973 Series III
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 09:33:59 -0400
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: So I pull in the parking lot here at work....

>Matt, don't tempt me to run down at lunch in Miss Jessica - she's right
>here outside my window....

Hmmmm... I really don't have anything firm until sailing tonight at 5:30...

>
>                     aj"Party at Matt's Place!"r

I'll bring the hypoid!

jab

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 10:02:20 -0400 
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Peter O. has doubts...

Peter,Peter,Peter,

Perhaps it's due to my long-standing contractual relationship with the
Devil, (...and please, in the future, do Capitalize references to Him...if
you don't it really pisses him off...there, you are forewarned!) but the
method I described has always worked for me.
Then again, my semi-retired mind may have it wrong...perhaps it was "cut the
outer steel sleeve", but alas... no, I said it right the first time,
(actually I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken), cut the inner
sleeve through to the rubber and then apply the air chisel to the bushing at
the cut...angled slightly toward the frame...as the round-punch chisel-point
slides through the cut, the sleeve curls inward, pulling away from the
rubber, outer sleeve and frame...at some point part way through, the
vibration and pressure of the air chisel overcomes the adhesive forces of
time & corrosion, and the outer sleeve is released from the frame.  (Of
course, should my method as described above fail you, then I suggest you
carefully cut the remaining outer sleeve also, being careful not to cut the
frame, and then simply proceed with the same tools and methodology.)

I believe I have some recently removed bushings I can snap pics of which
will prove my point.

Honest, trust me (...which we all know is Yiddish for "F-U"), it works.  ;->

JT/ric

I'm puzzling over your description of removing the frame bushings.  Your 
saying cut the small inner sleeve, that the bolt goes through.  Then you can

drive out the entire bushing, outer sleeve, the one welded to the frame by 
corrosion, by using a punch tool in the rubber.  This sounds a bit too easy,

almost blasphemous devil's work.  I haven't tried an air chizel on an uncut 
outer bush but can't see how applying the tool to the rubber would have any 
effect on outer bush.  It would seem the rubber would absorb the blows of 
the chizel on one hand.  On the other, most of my frame bushes haven't had 
the rubber attached to the inner and/or outer sleeve so the rubber just 
falls out.  Could you try and clear up my incomprehension of your method.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 07:47:46 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: help needed--off topic

I bought a '67 Mercedes 250SE sedan (for about half what my new chassis
cost!) to drive around while the frameover was in progress.

The MB list I'm on has been most unhelpful so I thought I'd turn to you
guys and your general wizardry with things automotive.

Fuel pump recently died on it (bosch mechanical fuel
injection--petrol--with an electric pump near the tank).

Replacement: $400

Obviously I'm loathe to put about 1/3 of what I paid for the thing into a
new fuel pump.  My question is this:  can I buy a generic fuel pump? 
I've been told it'll need to generate 22 psi.  I believe this is about
what most fuel-injected cars require and so most generic pups should
generate it, but I'm not sure.

Would there be special issues w/ the mechanical injection that would
require me to put a pressure regulator in the line?

Anyone want to buy a very cool old mercedes cheap?

bill

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 10:21:11 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: help needed--off topic

Bill, if the damn thing has a fuel pressure regulator I can't see it
mattering a rat's arse who makes the pump. For example, how many RRs are
running around withe Chevy fuel pumps at 1/4 the price?

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 10:34:05 -0400 
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Back-ass-ward 109 front brakes...

bill,

I believe the bore is large enough, but I say that without any data to back
up the statement...(other than the larger pipe outlet sizes), but it  seems
logical to me that it would be so.  The Ford Crowne Vic was a large heavy
vehicle after all.  And it also seems appropriate to now consider a Ford
part acceptable on a Land Rover product.
While the Crowne Vic MC ("CV") is a bolt in replacement for the original
Girling dual circuit CB, some additional work is needed.  
First, the pushrod needs to be extended about 7/8ths inch...a simple
aluminum insert can be used, or as I did, cut 7/8" off the end of the CB
pushrod and weld it to the Crowne Vic's pushrod, carefully grinding the weld
back to proper size.
Also, the "CV" inlets are of 2 different sizes and are on the opposite side
(engine side for a LHD truck).  Napa can sell you the 6" pipe&adapters to
take the inlet sizes down to 3/16".
You can then just reform the original lines, or cut,shorten and re-flare the
original pipes using the  original ends, and a 3/16" union fitting to join
them.
The Crowne Vic MC has the bail-lock style top cover with the expanding
gasket/seal common on  US made MCs.  The front fluid chamber is twice the
volume of the rear chamber (and I presume this is so to allow for more rapid
wear for the front brake shoe linings or pads, thus the need for a larger
volume of brake fluid.  The front pipe outlet is a larger size (5/16")than
the rear outlet(1/4").  Though I adapted both down to 3/16" pipe and
fittings, you could retain the larger pipe and fitting size all the way to
the front junction, but I don't see the need or benefit on an 88.
The "CV" is quite a bit larger MC than the CB and thus it occupies a larger
amount of under-bonnet real estate, but it posed no clearance problems on my
88, even though equipped with an APB SU/manifold setup, similar to ACR's.
If your CB is in good nick, keep it, but if you need a replacement, the "CV"
is a reasonable and inexpensive replacement, IMHO.

JT/ric
I know sev. folks who run these on their 88s--is its bore diameter large
enough to work the 109 fronts?  I already have the regular rover
dual-circuit master, but if this thing costs $35 and has a big ol' bore
front and back . . .
bill

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 10:50:44 -0400 
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Optima battery anyone? Good price

Tom, 
I bought the genuine, original Optima Yellow top at a recent LR rally (Old
North State's Uwharrie Safari) for $89 from 4X4 Connection, obviously a
great price which also avoided shipping charges.  We are attempting to round
up vendors for ROAV's  Mid Atlantic Rally October 5-7 and hopefully 4X4
Connection will be one of them...good folks.
As you are probably aware, Optima has licensed their spiral wound battery
cell technology to Excide, Champion and others.  Exide is also handling all
warranty clains for Optima products, so claims service nationwide is easy to
find.
If your battery need can wait, check with Tim Nichols at 4X4Connection
(4X4Connection.com) and check his price.  Tell him ROAV referred you.  I'm
sure with a bit of encouragement, he will bring his large trailer full of
goodies to the MAR (along with your battery), and you can aviod shipping
charges and enjoy rally pricing on other large hard-to-ship items too.

JT/ric

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>ry anyone? Good price
Sorry for the cross post, but I thought this would interest both groups.
I can get a good deal (I think) on some of the Exide version of the Optima
battery. Both 
the regular one and the deep cycle.
Anyone need/want one? They'd be about $90, give or take a couple. If you're 
interrested let me know. I suggest people close to the Atlanta area as I
expect shipping 
would be prohibitive. If you can wait I expect to be at the ROVA event in
Oct.
Not to rush, but I need to know by tomorrow afternoon EST.
Cheers

Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 11:03:01 -0400
From: Perrone Ford <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Optima battery anyone? Good price

<html><head></head><body>John,<br>
<br>
 &nbsp;&nbsp; Please note that Exide does not license Optima technology.&nbsp; They own
it.&nbsp; They purchased GHB a year or two ago and GHB was the parent of Optima
Technologies.&nbsp; Exide had been working on their own gel battery independently
of&nbsp; GHBs work (I own one) but decided to purchase the technology from GHB
outright.<br>
<br>
- -Perrone<br>
<br>
Tackley, John wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:A0669F3E0A6B3448A962DC6141E6C7A6B232D0@mis1"><pre wrap="">Tom, <br>I bought the genuine, original Optima Yellow top at a recent LR rally (Old<br>North State's Uwharrie Safari) for $89 from 4X4 Connection, obviously a<br>great price which also avoided shipping charges.  We are attempting to round<br>up vendors for ROAV's  Mid Atlantic Rally October 5-7 and hopefully 4X4<br>Connection will be one of them...good folks.<br>As you are probably aware, Optima has licensed their spiral wound battery<br>cell technology to Excide, Champion and others.  Exide is also handling all<br>warranty clains for Optima products, so claims service nationwide is easy to<br>find.<br>If your battery need can wait, check with Tim Nichols at 4X4Connection<br>(4X4Connection.com) and check his price.  Tell him ROAV referred you.  I'm<br>sure with a bit of encouragement, he will bring his large trailer full of<br>goodies to the MAR (along with your battery), and you can !
aviod shipping<br>charges and enjoy  </blockquote>
  <br>
</body></html>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 11:14:22 -0400 
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: RE: Optima battery anyone? Good price

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Duly noted, thanks Perrone...
 
JT/ric

 Please note that Exide does not license Optima technology.  They own it.  
- -Perrone

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<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=453581215-05062001>Duly 
noted, thanks Perrone...</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
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class=453581215-05062001></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN 
class=453581215-05062001>JT/ric</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
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<DIV>&nbsp;Please note that Exide does not license Optima technology.&nbsp; They 
own it.&nbsp;&nbsp;<BR><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN 
class=453581215-05062001>-Perrone<BR>&nbsp;</SPAN></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 11:47:51 -0400
From: "A. P. (Sandy) Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Bashing bushings

>Rich Williams <[email-masked]> wrote:

>Last but not least, I have yet to remove the frame bushings.  My instincts
>tell me that they are better off left in situ until AFTER the frame is
>blasted then replace with new bushings.  Thoughts anyone?

>Are there any tricks to removing these stubborn things? Hydralic press?

Bushings can only be removed destructively.  The center tube can usually be
driven out and sometimes it comes out rusted to the shackle bolt.  I
usually drive a thin-bladed, square shank screwdriver between the rubber
part and the outer shell and twist the screwdriver to 'walk' it around the
rubber piece.  Peels up nice... Failing that, they have to be burned out
with not a little smoke and a considerable amount of trepidation.  (Not
reccommended for the faint of heart or short of breath....)

The outer shell can be sawn through with a hacksaw blade, or as someone
else has said, driven out with a v-pointed air chisel.  Take care not to
damage the interior diameter too much.  You can use a brake cylinder hone
to dress it up and remove any rust.

Now here is the absolute fastest, easiest, most pain-free way to re-install
bushings.  I made a special tool by welding an appropriate-sized, 1/2"
drive socket to a pointed .401 Parker shank tool.  The socket should be
ever-so-smaller than the outside diameter of the bushing and the pointed
bit keeps it centered.  Chuck that bad boy in the air hammer, grease
everything up and lay into it.  It'll reinstall a bushing in under two
seconds.  No lie.  (I'm getting a patent tomorrow....)

As I get older, I find my collection of air tools growing....

Cheers

	*-----"jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is legendary"----*
	|                 A. P. "Sandy" Grice                  |
	|    The Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd    |
	|     1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
	|     757-622-7054  (H)423-4898  (FAX)757-622-7056     |
	*------------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 09:44:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: DaveB <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Series IIa on a Defender chassis?

- --- Peter Ogilvie <[email-masked]> wrote:

> such need on the 110 so is it really a 110" wheel base.  Wouldn't be 
> surprized if the 110 was just a warmed over 109" frame.

110 body parts will physically fit onto a 109 frmae and vice versa.
which of the mounting points actually coincide is a different story. my
guess is that some do and some don't. you'll need a 110 bulkhead,
floors, tunnel and seat box  or you'll need to modify your series ones.
the series fornt clip likely will be a struggle to, the severity of
which dpeends on alot of factors.

i guess the big question is why...

=====
They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are quite a bit dicier.

David Foster Wallace

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 13:53:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Tom Rowe" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Optima battery anyone? Good price

Here's a review for those not famialr with the Exide version of the battery

http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/exide_orbital/

Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA

Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
        in places even more inaccessible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 13:58:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Tom Rowe" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Optima battery anyone? Good price

On Tue, 5 Jun 2001 10:50:44 -0400, Tackley, John wrote:

>I bought the genuine, original Optima Yellow top at a recent LR rally (Old
>North State's Uwharrie Safari) for $89 from 4X4 Connection, obviously a
>great price which also avoided shipping charges.  We are attempting to round
>up vendors for ROAV's  Mid Atlantic Rally October 5-7 and hopefully 4X4
>Connection will be one of them...good folks.
snip

You may want to check into an Exide dealer coming. Looking at the two batteries, at 
least the deep cycle seems nicer in the Exide version, 4 top posts plus two side posts. 
The regular one, equiv to the Optima red top, has two top and two side posts.
I've never done a side by side comparison, just commenting on external features.
Cheers

Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA

Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
        in places even more inaccessible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 14:46:20 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Series IIa on a Defender chassis?

i meant wheelbase.  sorry about that.  email marsland or designa chassis.  
they can answer that better than i can.

adam

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 14:48:01 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Series IIa on a Defender chassis?

the 90 is a 93" (actually 92.9") because of "on road handling problems" with 
the new suspension in a 90" wheelbase vehicle.  supposedly, 2.9" makes all 
the difference in road handling when you are dealing with a small wheelbase.  
this is what i have read in several rover magazines.

adam

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 18:51:47 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Series IIa on a Defender chassis?

>a coil chassis from Designa Chassis.  To use a 110 frame, you would >also 
>either have to shorten the frame by 1", or fit a defender back >body, roof 
>sides, and roof panel.

No, AFAIK the only difference is in wheelbase, not length of the truck. I 
think the frames are the same length.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 14:53:08 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Tires - oops - Tyres

the BFGs are avalable in black lettering as well.  what size would you be 
looking for?  IMO, i woulds tick with the 16" rims.  better selection of 
sizes to suit a series in 16".

adam

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 18:54:19 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Santana brakes from Canada?

>Somebody mentioned a Santana disk brake set up from Can.for $720.
>Who do you order this from??
>Thanks in advance,
>Aaron
>69 2a 88

No one is selling them in Canada. It's just that they'll ship it to us 
'cause they're not worried about getting sued by us. You still have to order 
from TI Console.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 18:58:51 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Frame bushings

>So. Why couldnt you just gently bash hte bushes in with a rubber
>mallet?
>
>

Asked the man who's obviously never fought with frame bushings ;-)

Niall Forbes-Who has and never wants to again (can you say polybush next 
time?)!!
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

_________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 19:04:46 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Tires - oops - Tyres

Unless you're REALLY keen on the originality thing and want to go with bias 
ply tires, I'd go with Michelin LTX for road use or BFG All-Terrain if you 
plan on doing any offroading. Just specify white lettering "in" when you get 
the tires mounted. Make sure you mention it several times or they will screw 
up. You'll also have to explain to the technician why you wouldn't want big 
white lettering on the sidewalls. He still won't understand though ;-)

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 19:09:36 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Tires - oops - Tyres

>other.  Last set of BFG MTs I got, I specifically told the tire shop
>dudes to mount them white side in, and I went out to the bay to drive
>away to find nice blue letters pointing out all around.  I just about
>fell over.  Needless to say, I spent a little more time at the shop that
>afternoon while they remounted everything.  Can't give any size

They ALWAYS do that. And they're never pleased when you show them that 
"White in" is written right on their work order (after you told the guy at 
the desk ten times ;-). Morons.

>recommendations for 15" rims--are you going w/ them b/c you're doing a
>concourse resto?  If not, I'd say pitch 'em and put 16" on.  They're way
>more functional, not to mention better looking.

There's no need at all to switch rim sizes. Just get a set of 33x9.5R15 
tires. They're slightly larger than 235/85/16 but not significantly so and 
they should work just as well.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

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------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #396
**********************************************