Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #393

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 19:39:23 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *  Friday, June 1 2001  Volume 01 : Number 393

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 13:38:53 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: very slight LR content

This sounds like some misguided moralist prat's idea of "justice"...

                    aj"Assholes R' Them!"r

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 10:43:54 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Royce (was Tuning by eye)

Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 21:50:00 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: Tuning by eye

>BTW last week I went to the Bolton Steam Museum, full of really old, big,
engines that used to power the old cotton mills in the 19th Century ( a
rough job mine, but someone has to do it). In a corner was a generator and
board built by Royce in the days before he met Rolls.

I read short biographies of Rolls and Royce, and the one who was the hands-
on engineer/mechanic/etc, who I believe was Royce, served his apprenticeship, 
if memory serves, in the locomotive shops at Crewe.  But I definitely remember 
the description of his "final exam."  The apprentices were given a flat piece of 
steel and a round bar.  Using only hand tools and no measuring devices of any kind, 
they had to create a square hole in the flat sheet and square the round bar 
so that the bar fit in the hole perfectly no matter how you inserted it.  I doubt there 
are many people today who could accomplish such a task (Royce apparently did it 
quite easily).

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
Producer/Director, Boeing Video Services
telephone (425)393-7721
mobile (206)650-5622
fax: (425)393-7741
e-mail: [email-masked]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 14:10:06 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Weird Salisbury leak (again)

Bill, I'd be damned surprised if there wasn't some kind of a fuzzy cog
(felt washer) in there. If there's a path for the 90-weight to go there has
to be something stopping it.

Have a look at the exploded parts diagram - that should show something.

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 12:18:35 -0600
From: Rick Grant <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Royce (was Tuning by eye)

At 10:43 31/05/01 -0700, Faure, Marin, wrote
>the description of his "final exam."  The apprentices were given a flat 
>piece of
>steel and a round bar.  Using only hand tools and no measuring devices of 
>any kind,
>they had to create a square hole in the flat sheet and square the round bar
>so that the bar fit in the hole perfectly no matter how you inserted 
>it.  I doubt there
>are many people today who could accomplish such a task (Royce apparently 
>did it
>quite easily).

When I was going to university I had a part time job in a cabinet makers 
shop.  The entire hiring process (resume, application, interview etc) 
consisted of being handed a lump of rough lumber, a  square, handsaw, and a 
plane, and told to produce a near as perfect cube as possible.  The 
dimensions didn't matter but it had to be a cube.  The exercise remains to 
this day as the most difficult woodworking I've ever done.

                                             Rick Grant

  				  1959 Series II   "88"
				  VORIZO

Rick Grant Communications
Media and Crisis Management
Calgary Ottawa
www.rickgrant.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 13:11:33 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Weird Salisbury leak (again)

> Have a look at the exploded parts diagram - that should show 
> something.
> 
>                          ajr

Where do I find one of these?  Not that I've looked, but I'm guessing
there ain't one in the SII/IIA green bible, seeing as how Salisburies 
(is that the plural?) didn't come on 'em.  Maybe I'll dig into Mr. Haynes
manual and then go see what mid-70s F250s had on them.  Headed out to
garage now to poke around in my manuals. . . 

bill

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 14:04:58 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Salisbury diagram

OK, now I actually checked my manuals and there ain't an exploded diagram
in any of 'em.  Anyone know where I can view one of these?

bill

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 14:47:18 -0700
From: Tom Gross <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Overworked and underpaid

Ok that's it.  I've listened to this crap long enough from Olgive and Faure.
I worked for the government, United States Forest Service, as a fire fighter
until I was 39.  I don't recall feeling particularly fat or underworked
after pulling 24 or 48 hour shifts digging hand line in steep mountain
terrain, breathing smoke that seared my lungs.  I was burned over once.  I
don't remember feeling coddled when I wondered if that final roiling,
broiling, coppery colored cloud of dust and smoke was going to be hot enough
to kill me.  I don't remember feeling particularly lazy when I was running 5
miles a day so that I could be in good enough shape to last through 45
minutes of initial attack on fires in the Sonoran Desert in the summer
before I got sick from the heat.  I don't remember looking around and seeing
too many slackers on the line.

My father was a non-union carpenter in Phoenix, Arizona (a "right-to-work"
state) until the day he said piss on it, and retired at 63.  He was grateful
for unions so that the wages paid to non-union carpenters would be a little
more than what they would have been had there not been unions.  He worked
hard and got laid off at 55 after an idiot who had enough money to buy the
business where he worked, but not enough brains to keep it afloat ran it
into the ground.  There wasn't any health insurance for him, my mom and the
4 kids still at home while he scrambled to look for work at his age.  If
he'd been in a union, he'd have had health insurance.  Today he'd at least
have had some protection thanks to those bleeding-heart tax-and-spend
liberals who worked for COBRA.

In 1966, when I was 18, and just out of high school, my father got me a job
working at the mobile home factory where he worked.  About 2 weeks into my
new job I stuck my middle and index fingers into a radial arm saw.  Most of
it was my fault, but some of it was due to an incorrectly set up saw.
Afterall, you can get a couple more inches of cutting travel if you set the
backstop back under the blade a little farther.  That way you don't have to
buy a bigger saw.  Think of it, I might not be able to flip off Faure and
Olgive with the short middle finger if there had been an OSHA around in
those days.

You know boys, "Survival of the fittest." has its place, but humans are
conscious beings.  We can see that maybe the carnage left from laissez faire
in an industrial society may not be in the best interests of everybody, and
certainly not in the interests of those that aren't fit enough.  

So, please keep your warmed over Ronald "S-head" Reagan rhetoric off a list
that's supposed to be about keeping our vehicles going down the road.

I apologize to the list for this rant, but these guys don't seem ever to get
called on this stuff. 

Tom Gross

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 15:35:22 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Friend's tranny problem

Hi folks,
A good friend of mine in Italy just got a SIII 109SW.  I got this e-mail
from him today.  While I'm exhorting him to join the list, can anyone
offer any sage advice re. his problem, which I can fwd. to him?

thanks,
bill

Paul says:
Had no problems the 800 or so miles from 
> London to Vicenza.  But now the gearbox locks up once in a while.  
> Sometimes I have to stop it, turn off the engine, and shift the 
> gears while it is off to get it smooth again.  Any suggestions?  I 
> have seen this before on old stick shift vehicles.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 10:01:25 +1200
From: "Macka" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Overworked and underpaid

Superbly well said.

Best cheers,

Andrew "Macka" MacGowan

New Zealand Landrover Owners Club Moderator
http://quicksitebuilder.cnet.com/nzlromacka/NZLROC/
R.E.M.L.R Member 115

1971 Ex NZ Army Series IIA 88 Softop FV2343 "Skippy
>Ok that's it.  I've listened to this crap long enough from Olgive and
Faure.
>I worked for the government, United States Forest Service, as a fire
fighter
>until I was 39.  I don't recall feeling particularly fat or underworked
>after pulling 24 or 48 hour shifts digging hand line in steep mountain
>terrain, breathing smoke that seared my lungs.  I was burned over once.  I
>don't remember feeling coddled when I wondered if that final roiling,
>broiling, coppery colored cloud of dust and smoke was going to be hot
enough
>to kill me.  I don't remember feeling particularly lazy when I was running
5
>miles a day so that I could be in good enough shape to last through 45
>minutes of initial attack on fires in the Sonoran Desert in the summer
>before I got sick from the heat.  I don't remember looking around and
seeing
>too many slackers on the line.
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 18:03:07 -0400
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Friend's tranny problem

Check for the plastic ball on the end of the gear lever. It often
disintegrates and the too small end remaining can slip between the selectors
cause a gearbox lock up. Solution is to replace the ball or use a Series
II/IIA gearlever. Or weld a nut on the end of the stick and file it to shape
so it fits the selectors.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	William J. Rice [SMTP:[email-masked]]
> Sent:	Thursday, May 31, 2001 5:35 PM
> To:	[email-masked]
> Subject:	LRO: Friend's tranny problem
> 
> Hi folks,
> A good friend of mine in Italy just got a SIII 109SW.  I got this e-mail
> from him today.  While I'm exhorting him to join the list, can anyone
> offer any sage advice re. his problem, which I can fwd. to him?
> 
> thanks,
> bill
> 
> Paul says:
> Had no problems the 800 or so miles from 
> > London to Vicenza.  But now the gearbox locks up once in a while.  
> > Sometimes I have to stop it, turn off the engine, and shift the 
> > gears while it is off to get it smooth again.  Any suggestions?  I 
> > have seen this before on old stick shift vehicles.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 17:02:26 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Salisbury diagram

Bill, I have a diagram in the parts catalogue.

William J. Rice wrote:
> 
> OK, now I actually checked my manuals and there ain't an exploded diagram
> in any of 'em.  Anyone know where I can view one of these?
> 
> bill

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 17:06:22 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Salisbury diagram

Are you sure the nut isn't loose? Off hand, I don't see anything that
looks like it would seal there. I think most diffs seal by the mating
surfaces of the flange and pinion shaft.

William J. Rice wrote:
> 
> OK, now I actually checked my manuals and there ain't an exploded diagram
> in any of 'em.  Anyone know where I can view one of these?
> 
> bill

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 17:55:28 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Overworked and underpaid

Well, now that we're well and good-ly off topic, I'll pitch in my $.02.

I agree w/ Tom to a point--As an government employee in the U.S. Army
infantry, I've never felt particularly underutilizied.  I think this is
one of those things that most gov't employees let slide off their back,
always assuming that the comment is ref. those OTHER gov't employees
(many DA civilians, for instance) who really are getting over.  Kind of
like officer jokes--I don't get real riled up about them.  When the
enlisted guy doing the ribbing gets his own platoon/company he'll realize
that the responsibilities and tasks are bigger than he ever could've
imagined while humping his own ruck and watching his section of the
perimeter, imagining that the platoon leader is loafing in the middle.

However, the rest of his missive I find hard to agree with.  I certainly
agree that watchdog/compassion organizations need to exist, but I
completely disagree that they should be gov't agencies.  Though these
agencies do perform many desireable deeds, regulatory/bureaucratic costs
(EPA, OSHA, Workman's comp, Social Security, DOT) are an ever-growing
millstone around the necks of American business and, I believe, are
largely responsible for our transition from a manufacturing to a service
economy (which may seem dandy now, but doesn't hold up too well in tough
times).  

I think that were government not forcing us all to be involved in
mandatory relief/regulation (via taxation), we would not have blue collar
workers dying on the streets.  We would have a lot more community-based,
voluntary, EFFECTIVE intervention to help those in need.  Before the FDR
and LBJ this happened a good bit, albeit after some industrial revolution
nastiness (which was FAR worse in GB where things weren't nearly as
lazziez faire).

There are almost always market-based reforms that will be more effective
and far cheaper than establishment of a regulatory leviathan to oversee
the crisis of the moment.

OK, now I'll shut up about this and go see if that nut on my pinion is
tight.

bill

------------------------------

Date: 31 May 2001 17:10:47 -0700
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Overworked and underpaid

Interesting contrast in subject delineation between Tom's point of view and the opinions apparently held by Marin and Peter.  Tom has referred to social/political action and effect only with respect to his personal situation.  While Marin and Peter have discussed the effects on all of us as a whole.    

Probably not a Rover topic, but interesting none the less.  (especially after a few beers on a hot day :-)

Bryan
62 88
70 109 "Genie"

On Thu, 31 May 2001, Tom Gross wrote:

> 
> Ok that's it.  I've listened to this crap long enough from Olgive and Faure.
> I worked for the government, United States Forest Service, as a fire fighter
> until I was 39.  I don't recall feeling particularly fat or underworked
> after pulling 24 or 48 hour shifts digging hand line in steep mountain
> terrain, breathing smoke that seared my lungs.  I was burned over once.  I
> don't remember feeling coddled when I wondered if that final roiling,
> broiling, coppery colored cloud of dust and smoke was going to be hot enough
> to kill me.  I don't remember feeling particularly lazy when I was running 5
> miles a day so that I could be in good enough shape to last through 45
> minutes of initial attack on fires in the Sonoran Desert in the summer
> before I got sick from the heat.  I don't remember looking around and seeing
> too many slackers on the line.
> 
> My father was a non-union carpenter in Phoenix, Arizona (a "right-to-work"
> state) until the day he said piss on it, and retired at 63.  He was grateful
> for unions so that the wages paid to non-union carpenters would be a little
> more than what they would have been had there not been unions.  He worked
> hard and got laid off at 55 after an idiot who had enough money to buy the
> business where he worked, but not enough brains to keep it afloat ran it
> into the ground.  There wasn't any health insurance for him, my mom and the
> 4 kids still at home while he scrambled to look for work at his age.  If
> he'd been in a union, he'd have had health insurance.  Today he'd at least
> have had some protection thanks to those bleeding-heart tax-and-spend
> liberals who worked for COBRA.
> 
> In 1966, when I was 18, and just out of high school, my father got me a job
> working at the mobile home factory where he worked.  About 2 weeks into my
> new job I stuck my middle and index fingers into a radial arm saw.  Most of
> it was my fault, but some of it was due to an incorrectly set up saw.
> Afterall, you can get a couple more inches of cutting travel if you set the
> backstop back under the blade a little farther.  That way you don't have to
> buy a bigger saw.  Think of it, I might not be able to flip off Faure and
> Olgive with the short middle finger if there had been an OSHA around in
> those days.
> 
> You know boys, "Survival of the fittest." has its place, but humans are
> conscious beings.  We can see that maybe the carnage left from laissez faire
> in an industrial society may not be in the best interests of everybody, and
> certainly not in the interests of those that aren't fit enough.  
> 
> So, please keep your warmed over Ronald "S-head" Reagan rhetoric off a list
> that's supposed to be about keeping our vehicles going down the road.
> 
> I apologize to the list for this rant, but these guys don't seem ever to get
> called on this stuff. 
> 
> Tom Gross

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 19:39:16 -0700
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Overworked and underpaid

Thanks Tom

Chris hall
only thing worse than a union is management that  them necessary.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 19:28:11 -0700
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Re: Tuning by eye

Isn't the materiel supposed to be disposed of safely?  If you just scrape
it
off onto the shop floor, you'll get fibres in the air when the waste
dries.
Brake and clutch linings are still made with asbestos.

Yes, I just assumed that was a given.  Not very bright on my part.  The
current rule proposal is for periodic annalists of shop floor dust, with
results filed with OSHA to ensure no asbestos loose in the shops. 

It is getting so  the best part of the professional car business is
getting out.

Chris hall

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 08:43:38 +0100
From: "Steve Mace" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Asbestos (was tuning by eye)

Presumably under the assumption that a couple of inches of pencil lead is 
going to alter the mass of the pad/shoe enough to actually alter it's vibration 
characteristics? So let's get this correct. Brake shoe weighs what 8oz. Drilling 
out 20 holes and put in pencil 'lead' maybe adds 0.01 of an oz. Total change 
in mass about zero. Can't see that doing anything to alter vibration 
characteristics. I'm sure someone who can remember their A level Physics 
can put this into figures better than me (too long ago I'm afraid) but it's doesn't 
sound correct to me. 

Just my opinion :-)

On 31 May 2001, at 10:36, Faure, Marin wrote:

> Actually, the graphite does not do anything to lubricate the lining.  The 
> purpose of the lead "inserts" in the edge of the lining (not the face) is to
> dampen the high-frequency vibrations that are the actual source of the squeal. 
> It works for both pads and shoes.  You drill a series of holes in the leading or
> upside edge of the shoe or pad lining parallel to and as close as possible to
> the backing plate.  Insert the lead cores that you cut from pencils.  It's
> important to make sure the holes face up, otherwise the lead cores might fall
> out, although under the high heat generated in the brakes, they probably become
> pretty well bonded to the lining material in a short time.  The lead "breaks up"
> the vibration in the pad or shoe, and no more squeal. 
Steve

1972 SIII LtWt Green
1993 D90 Red
- -------------------------------------
Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: [email-masked]
www: http://www.solwise.co.uk
Tel: 0845 458 4558 (local rate)
Fax: 0845 458 4559
Intl. Fax. +44 1482 621877
- -------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 03:53:15 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Re: Graphite lube and asbestos

- --part1_14.1507ea1e.2848a3eb_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

David writes:

> One of the worst offenders is WD-40.
> 
That's because it leaves a light but oily residue which captures dust as you 
pointed out. The graphite lube I use is a spray in a hydrocarbon carrier that 
evaporates leaving only fine relatively dry graphite particles. I used it on 
the advice of a locksmith who was an off road enthusiast.

As far as asbestos, the current approach is more to encapsulate rather than 
just remove it, as removal tends to spread the particulate contamination more 
in some cases. A lot of people's varying reactions to exposure are related to 
the sensitivity of their immune system to the foreign material. A similar 
case is beryllium metal particles which can lead to a fatal condition called 
berylliosis when inhaled. However it is estimated that only 5% of the 
population will have the reaction to exposure. (It's just that that they 
can't predict who those folks are.)

Karen Sindir

- --part1_14.1507ea1e.2848a3eb_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>David writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">One of the worst offenders is WD-40.
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>That's because it leaves a light but oily residue which captures dust as you 
<BR>pointed out. The graphite lube I use is a spray in a hydrocarbon carrier that 
<BR>evaporates leaving only fine relatively dry graphite particles. I used it on 
<BR>the advice of a locksmith who was an off road enthusiast.
<BR>
<BR>As far as asbestos, the current approach is more to encapsulate rather than 
<BR>just remove it, as removal tends to spread the particulate contamination more 
<BR>in some cases. A lot of people's varying reactions to exposure are related to 
<BR>the sensitivity of their immune system to the foreign material. A similar 
<BR>case is beryllium metal particles which can lead to a fatal condition called 
<BR>berylliosis when inhaled. However it is estimated that only 5% of the 
<BR>population will have the reaction to exposure. (It's just that that they 
<BR>can't predict who those folks are.)
<BR>
<BR>Karen Sindir</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_14.1507ea1e.2848a3eb_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 05:20:02 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Weird Salisbury leak (again)

Re: Exploded parts diagram:

Not sure on the larter stuff, but one of the manuals I have is the LR Parts
Manual. It's got exploded diagrams of everything....lovely line drawings.

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 05:28:22 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Friend's tranny problem

Hmmmmm....clutch master/slave/worn clutch? Sounds like it's just not
disengaging....

                              ajr

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 08:31:07 -0400 
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: RE: Asbestos (was tuning by eye)

When I worked for the Rolls Royce garage the pencil leads were inserted
perpendicular to the pad surface so the graphite would be "impregnated" onto
the shoe surface.
Like you, I have doubts about Marin's method. Maybe the holes affect the
resonant frequency of the shoe or pads leading edge, sort of like putting a
chamfer on but on the inside.

> -----
> From:	Steve Mace [SMTP:[email-masked]]
> 
> Presumably under the assumption that a couple of inches of pencil lead is 
> going to alter the mass of the pad/shoe enough to actually alter it's
> vibration 
> characteristics? 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 05:39:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: DaveB <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Fixing temp Guages

haven't tried this myself, but this is how it's done. Nissongers in NY
reportedly does the whole guage for around $100.

Dave

from: http://www.ply33.com/Repair/TempGauge.html

Broken Temperature Gauge

Disclaimer: While an effort has been made to assure a reasonable repair
procedure, no guarantees are made. We are not responsible for any
damage or injuries that may occur as a result of following these
instructions. The only vehicle these procedures has been tried on is a
1933 Plymouth PD. Applicability to any other vehicle is for you to
decide. 

The temperature gauge is a "mechanical" unit. It consists of a bulb
with fluid (ether) mounted in engine head, a gauge head mounted in the
instrument cluster on the dash, and a tube connecting the bulb to the
gauge head. The gauge head is actually a pressure sensing unit. 

In operation, the heat of the coolant in the engine head heats the
working fluid. As the engine gets hotter the pressure in the bulb and
tubing rises. The dash head unit simply reads the pressure on a scale
calibrated in degrees Fahrenheit. 

A common failure mode is for corrosion to lock the bulb in the engine
head. The tubing is twisted off near the bulb when bulb removal is
attempted. In this case, the gauge head unit is known to be working
properly, the defect is in the tubing and in the loss of fluid from the
sealed system. 

Replacement parts

Mechanical temperature gauges are still being manufactured and
available in most auto parts stores. The goal of this procedure is to
graft a new bulb (with fluid) and tube onto the old gauge head. 

Find a gauge that has a spiral wound protective cover over the tube.
There are some that use a plastic coating. While these can be made to
work, they will not look correct. 

The Procedure

1.	Carefully remove the old tubing from the gauge head. On my unit, the
tubing was soldered into the gauge head and then the spiral protective
wire wrap was crimped. Gently work the crimp loose then unsolder the
old tubing. A relatively high wattage electronics soldering iron works
well. An inexpensive, low wattage, iron from the local discount
electronic store did not work for me. 

Caution: The working fluid in the gauge is ether, a highly flammable
substance. Do not have any open flame near your work area. Do not use a
torch for the soldering operations. 
2.	Tin the opening where tubing goes into the gauge head unit. Do not
fill the hole with solder. The gauge will not register without a
opening between the tube and the gauge. You want to handle the gauge
head unit as gently as possible. I feel it is better to use a high
wattage iron to clean up and tin the gauge head before the heat is
propagated to the whole unit. 
3.	Measure the tubing length on the old unit. Mark off that same length
on the new gauge's tubing. Measure from the bulb. The distance is not
real critical and all after market units I have seen have a very
generous tube length. If you end up a bit long you can coil up the
excess under the dash. 
4.	In a container serveral inches in diameter and several inches high,
bury the sensing bulb in a mixture of crushed ice and salt. This will
cool the working fluid enough that little or none will escape. You will
keep the bulb in the ice until you have finished all cutting and
soldering, so be sure the container will not fall over or the bulb
cannot accidently be pulled out. 
5.	On the gauge you purchased at the local auto suppy, trim off the
spiral protective wire wrapping for about 3/4 of an inch around where
you will cut the tubing. Do not cut the tube yet. 
6.	Tin the exposed new gauge tubing using standard electrical solder
and your soldering iron. 
7.	Make sure that the sensing bulb is still in the ice and is cold. 
8.	Keeping the sensing bulb packed in the ice, now cut the tubing just
slightly closer to the head unit than you measured earlier. Once cut
you can slip a the bolt cutting portion of your electrical crimping
tool over the tube and re-cut it at the measured position. The reason
for re-cutting the tube is to assure a clean round opening, the first
cut is likely to have collapsed the tubing slightly. 
9.	Keeping the sensing bulb in the ice, slide the tinned section of
tube into the tinned opening in the gauge head. Solder the tube to the
gauge head. Any voids are likely to be leaks and any leaks will cause
the unit to immediately fail. On the other hand, if you end up sealing
the hole between the tube and the gauge head the unit will not
register. 
10.	After visually verifying that a good solder joint with no voids or
other defects exists, you can remove the sensing bulb from the ice. You
will want to completely rinse the bulb in water to remove all traces of
the salt. 
11.	Place the bulb in hot or boiling water to test it. The gauge should
now be restored to operation. 

Calibration

If the gauge does not read 212° F in boiling water you have two
options: 

1.	Note the error and live with it. 
2.	Attempt to adjust the gauge head unit. 

The gauge head is a Bourdon tube connected to the indicator by a
linkage. The Bourdon tube is simply a flattened tube rolled into a
coil. As pressure is applied the tube slightly unwinds. When the
pressure is removed, the coiled tube returns to its original position. 

Adjustment is made by bringing the sensing bulb to a known termperature
by placing it in boiling water (212°F) then bending the linkage that
connectes the Bourdon tube to the indicator. Do not bend the Bourdon
tube itself. 

If you have any doubts about the adjustment operation, then don't do
it. You can buy replacement sensing bulbs and tubes at any auto supply
store. Getting an original gauge dash head is a lot harder. 

Update
In the April 2000 issue of Skinned Knuckles magazine there is an
article by Bill Cannon on doing this same repair. A significant
improvement is given by Bill in splicing the old tubing on to the new
tubing with the use of a sleeve. This allows you to work awayfrom the
gauge head and thus be less likely to damage it. 

In the Restoration Forum of the June 2000 issue of Skinned Knuckles A.
R. "Dick" Evans ("The Temperature Gauge Guy") of Dunedin, Florida
pointed out the safety issue of working with an open flame near the
ether working fluid. 

In general I don't make commercial endorsements on this web site. But I
have to say if you repair or restore old cars a subscription to Skinned
Knuckles is required. 

Copyright © 1999, 2000, by Tod Fitch 

=====
They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are quite a bit dicier.

David Foster Wallace

__________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 08:45:33 -0400
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Thanks

>Just got the most recent edition of Land Rover Enthusiast magazine.  Nice
>piece on the MAR, Jeff.  Thanks

My pleasure Sandy. I just got home to pick up my copy the other 
day--and confirm it was me you were thanking. That article--along 
with a sidebar detailing the Aluminium Man--was submitted some time 
back and not run as part of the North American special section as 
originally planned. I had no idea that it was going to be published 
so I was pleasantly surprised to see it in print.

RoverOn!

jeff
- -- 
==
  Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                     [email-masked]
                      ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 14:48:51 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Re: Tuning by eye

Peter Ogilvie writes:>>>Asbestos is not the big bugaboo that the health nuts
would have you believe,
> by the way.  Asbestos is a naturally occurring substance, especially in
the
> Western American Desserts.  It does not cause lung cancer, ala cigarettes,
> but a cancer of the the lining of the outside of the lung. <<

In the UK it even has a name. Asbestosis, is an inflammation of the lung
lining. It is not lung cancer.
 So that's alright then. Is it OK if I go back to the little village in the
Pennines I once went to to  interview six men living in one street all dying
of asbestosis as a result of working in a factory?
I went back six times after that, to funerals.
 I'll tell their families its not a big bugaboo...
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001 23:25:23 +0200
From: "Lance da Silva" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Softer Ride

The hard ride on my series 111 needs improvement. A local in town has taken a blade out both sides front and rear. This 
has made a definite improvement, but I would like to know the pitfalls on this. Anyone tried this route.
Thanks
Lance

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001 11:50:37 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Re: Tuning by eye

Asbestosis and the unigue type of lung cancer caused by asbestos are 
terrible diseases.  In most cases, it took long and intense exposure to a 
specific form of Asbestos to cause the disease.  Asbestos as a powder is a 
problem, Asbestos as 99% of us see/saw it is not a problem.  Unless it is 
ground into a fine powder it is not a health hazard.  Spending billions of 
dollars to remove it from buildings is a waste.  It just needs to be 
encapsulated.  Someone else pointed out that the removal actually causes 
more problems than it cures as the asbestos is sometimes powdered during the 
removal process.

It was terrible that the word on the danger of the powdered form of asbestos 
did not get out to the man in the factory or ship yard.  They were innocent 
victims that might have been saved a premature and painful death with a 
little precaution.  Guess what Frank, I'm one of those that was exposed to 
asbestos in its dangerous form, without any idea that it was a danger.  But 
like most things that can be a health hazard, the health paranoids have gone 
off the deep end in trying to rid the world of what is a non problem for 
most of the population.  As quite often happens, the cure is worse than the 
problem they are trying to solve.

The point I was trying to make is don't panic if you think you've been 
exposed to Asbestos.  Number one, it won't do you any good.  If your going 
to die from it, you arent' going to be able to do a thing about it short of 
a lung transplant.  In the majority of cases, asbestos would be contained in 
a manner to render it harmless.  Either bound up in the filler in floor tile 
or as large solids that are harmless.  In the case of brakes, care should be 
taken.  Don't assume that just because your shoes or pads are relatively 
new, that they don't contain asbestos.  Believe the new brake cleaners are 
designed to suspend the asbestos dust, be washed off, and allow it to be 
disposed of safely.  Wear a mask while doing brake work and don't blow the 
brakes down with compressed air.  Just a heads up but trying to put the real 
danger in perspective.

Aloha
Peter

>From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: <[email-masked]>
>Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Re: Tuning by eye
>Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 14:48:51 +0100
>
>Peter Ogilvie writes:>>>Asbestos is not the big bugaboo that the health 
>nuts
>would have you believe,
> > by the way.  Asbestos is a naturally occurring substance, especially in
>the
> > Western American Desserts.  It does not cause lung cancer, ala 
>cigarettes,
> > but a cancer of the the lining of the outside of the lung. <<
>
>In the UK it even has a name. Asbestosis, is an inflammation of the lung
>lining. It is not lung cancer.
>  So that's alright then. Is it OK if I go back to the little village in 
>the
>Pennines I once went to to  interview six men living in one street all 
>dying
>of asbestosis as a result of working in a factory?
>I went back six times after that, to funerals.
>  I'll tell their families its not a big bugaboo...
>Best Cheers
>
>Frank
>     +--+--+--+
>      I !__|  [_]|_\___
>      I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
>      "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 16:33:56 -0700
From: "Gerry Elam" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Wiring advice?

- ------=_NextPart_001_0004_01C0EAB8.A87E37A0
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I have a Dormobile that I'm finally getting funds to work on.  My =20
question is around the wiring and electrical load.

I have extensive plans (read dreams?) on what I want this vehicle to =20
do and I think I want extra capacity for the electrical load.  Dual-
batteries, wiring to the back for a small spare marine-type panel for =20
various lights, ham radios, etc.  are all under consideration.  =20

Like any old LR, the wiring is in horrible shape.  Would I be better =20
served going to a generic wiring harness (Painless comes to mind:  =20
http://www.painlessperformance.com/ )  OR would a new LR IIA harness =20
with mods be more appropriate?

Seems like TeriAnn Wakeman did hers from scratch.  That appears to =20
have served her well.

I am fairly well versed in electricity and have no real fear of =20
digging into it so that's not a huge consern.....I know which end of the =
solder =20
iron to grab unless it lands in your lap at which point jumping up is suf=
ficient. :-)

Advice from you knowledgeable LR folks is appreciated!

Cheers,
Gerry Elam
PHX AZ

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>I have a Dormo=
bile that I'm finally getting funds to work on.&nbsp; My <BR>question is =
around the wiring and electrical load.<BR><BR>I have extensive plans (rea=
d dreams?) on what I want this vehicle to <BR>do and I think I want extra=
 capacity for the electrical load.&nbsp; Dual-<BR>batteries, wiring to th=
e back for a small spare marine-type panel for <BR>various lights, ham ra=
dios, etc.&nbsp; are all under consideration.&nbsp; <BR><BR>Like any old =
LR, the wiring is in horrible shape.&nbsp; Would I be better <BR>served g=
oing to a generic wiring harness (Painless comes to mind:&nbsp; <BR><A hr=
ef=3D"http://www.painlessperformance.com/">http://www.painlessperformance=
.com/</A> )&nbsp; OR would a new LR IIA harness <BR>with mods be more app=
ropriate?<BR><BR>Seems like TeriAnn Wakeman did hers from scratch.&nbsp; =
That appears to <BR>have served her well.<BR><BR>I am fairly well versed =
in electricity and have no real fear of <BR>digging into it so that's not=
 a huge consern.....I know which end of the solder <BR>iron to grab unles=
s it lands in your lap at which point jumping up&nbsp;is sufficient. :-)<=
BR><BR>Advice from you knowledgeable LR folks is appreciated!<BR><BR>Chee=
rs,<BR>Gerry Elam<BR>PHX AZ<BR><BR><BR></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_001_0004_01C0EAB8.A87E37A0--

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #393
**********************************************