Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #386

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 11:28:37 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Saturday, May 26 2001 Volume 01 : Number 386

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 14:37:11 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Transmission Removal

Peter Ogilvie writes: >>>> You can play 'he man' and muscle out the
transmission, complete with
> transfer case, by yourself.  Or you can buy a fold up 2,000# hoist for
> around $200<<<

wonder if they make a mobile hoist for paving slabs, or if I can modify my
engine hoist (which does very well getting gearboxes out as well)
reason being, the new, improved, now healthy, me decided it was time to
finish the patio I started building a handful of heart attacks ago - and put
me back out! Ouch and doh!
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 12:40:03 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Series Gas Mileage

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 08:07:51 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: Series Gas Mileage

>> The speedometer/odometer broke during a trip to the Yukon in 1977, so
> I removed it and installed a different instrument panel made from a sheet
> of aircraft aluminum.  I moved the manifold pressure gauge to the position
> formerly occupied by the speedometer/odometer

>What's this?  A nonstock part in a Rover? For shame...

No, my Series III is no longer a true Land Rover.  Although the 
engine, drive train, chassis, and body are stock, I have modified 
the instrument panel to accommodate instruments the factory didn't 
install.  I have also put a hinged access panel in the front left wing over 
the clutch master cylinder to let me remove and install the cylinder 
without having to remove the wing.  Even though I used the original 
wing panel material for the access panel, this isn't something the 
factory ever offered as an "approved" option or accessory.  So like the 
folks driving Series machines with non-Rover engines, I too, have a 
"Not-A-Rover."

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
Producer/Director, Boeing Video Services
telephone (425)393-7721
mobile (206)650-5622
fax: (425)393-7741
e-mail: [email-masked]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 15:39:05 -0400
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Hotfoot!

As I spend time behind the wheel of my freshly mobile steed, Basil, I'm 
discovering some of the wonderful habits of our Series trucks. The newest 
is the hot footwell. The cause is obvious - that toasty exhaust pipe hiding 
behind a thin aluminium sheet. Has anyone tried insulating the pipe or the 
transmission tunnel? I'd prefer to put the insulation on the pipe or close 
to it instead of inside the truck. I might even have some old header wrap 
around somewhere. Suggestions, comments, dire warnings?

Keith and Basil

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 15:58:50 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Hotfoot!

The cheap dynamat-like material from JC Whitney.  Aluminum backed with adhesive strong enough to stick to the underside of the compartment.  Put as much on the engine side of the bulkhead and inside of the wings as you can to insulate that hot manifold and exhaust.

>>> [email-masked] 05/25/01 03:39PM >>>
As I spend time behind the wheel of my freshly mobile steed, Basil, I'm 
discovering some of the wonderful habits of our Series trucks. The newest 
is the hot footwell. The cause is obvious - that toasty exhaust pipe hiding 
behind a thin aluminium sheet. Has anyone tried insulating the pipe or the 
transmission tunnel? I'd prefer to put the insulation on the pipe or close 
to it instead of inside the truck. I might even have some old header wrap 
around somewhere. Suggestions, comments, dire warnings?

Keith and Basil

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 21:01:11 +0100
From: "Phil Norris" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Rock sliders

At least you wouldn't "scratch" any of your nicely polished "chassis". Hey,
T-cut-man...??!!
(VBG!!)
PhilN
- -----Original Message--VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
From: Neil Brownlee <[email-masked]>

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
To: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
Date: 24 May 2001 20:15
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Rock sliders......

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 21:04:27 +0100
From: "Phil Norris" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: Re: Series Gas Mileage

oh-oh... nomex suit back on.....
PhilN
- -----Original Message-----
From: Hope Peter <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
Date: 25 May 2001 07:21
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: Series Gas Mileage

>> The speedometer/odometer broke during a trip to the Yukon in 1977, so
>> I removed it and installed a different instrument panel made from a sheet
>> of aircraft aluminum.  I moved the manifold pressure gauge to the
position
>> formerly occupied by the speedometer/odometer
>
>What's this?  A nonstock part in a Rover? For shame...
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 16:04:28 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Re: Rock Sliders

- --part1_bd.eb2bcd8.284014cc_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<<Think bigger Trevor. Bigger!!
Using you're ingenious rockslider idea, I propose a skid plate system 
covering the entire undercarriage. Getting high centered would be no problem 
after installing that.  >>

You could always cover the underside of your rock crawler with those roller 
floors from C-130s.  
Where is Charles Irwin when we need him?

Paul Donohue
1965 Land Rover 109
Denver

- --part1_bd.eb2bcd8.284014cc_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>&lt;&lt;Think bigger Trevor. Bigger!!
<BR>Using you're ingenious rockslider idea, I propose a skid plate system 
<BR>covering the entire undercarriage. Getting high centered would be no problem 
<BR>after installing that. &nbsp;&gt;&gt;
<BR>
<BR>You could always cover the underside of your rock crawler with those roller 
<BR>floors from C-130s. &nbsp;
<BR>Where is Charles Irwin when we need him?
<BR>
<BR>Paul Donohue
<BR>1965 Land Rover 109
<BR>Denver</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_bd.eb2bcd8.284014cc_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 14:08:19 -0600
From: "Tim Czajka" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: high ratio transfer case

Hey - on the Ashcroft web site, next to the high ratio
Series tcase kit, there is also a low ratio kit.  Looks
like some gears to lower the Series tcase low range -
anyone have info on this?  I don't recall seeing this
before so maybe it's a new kit?  Not much info on the
web site - doesn't say what the ratio drop is.

Tim Czajka
1972 Series III 88
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 16:51:41 -0400
From: "A. P. (Sandy) Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Tuning by eye

Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]> wrote:

>A good quick-and-dirty way to check your mixture and ignition burn is to
look at the 
>inside of the exhaust pipe after a drive.  Not a short drive to the store,
but one 
>of ten miles or more after you've pushed the choke off.  The inside of the
pipe 
>should be light gray or brown.  If it's black, your mixture is too rich,
or you 
>are not getting proper ignition and burning of the mixture in the cylinders.

Such "tuning by eye" used to be a good reference.  Indeed, I could judge
the health of any engine by how the tailpipe looked.  However, since the
introduction of oxygenated fuels, particularly that evil substance methyl
tetrabutyl ether, a "healthy" engine no longer has a grayish-brown exhaust.
 Designed to leave residual oxygen in the exhaust stream (where it will eat
your valves - hence the need for stellite), the only positive benefit of
MTBE is obscene profits for a few corporations.

Cheers

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 16:51:42 -0400
From: "A. P. (Sandy) Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: It's a Marvel

Mike Rogers" <[email-masked]> wrote:

>Do any of you guys or gals know of a product called Marvel mystery oil? I
>bought a US gallon today for two quid as a cheap substitute for Red X

Ahhh...MMO...wonderful stuff.  Also, a passable desert topping.... ;-)

It's a high flash-point oil that is supposed to survive cylinder
combustion, hence it can be used as a lead substitute to avoid valve seat
recession when using oxygenated fuels.  I used an "Ampco" vapor lubricator
to inject a controlled amount into the carb base and I ran with regular
valves for over a dozen years after leaded petrol went bye-bye.  Would've
gone longer, but one valve guide started to wear....

Cheers

	*-----"jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is legendary"----*
	|                 A. P. "Sandy" Grice                  |
	|    The Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd    |
	|     1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
	|     757-622-7054  (H)423-4898  (FAX)757-622-7056     |
	*------------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 14:02:41 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Marvel mystery oil

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 22:00:34 +0100
From: "Mike Rogers" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Marvel mystery oil

>Do any of you guys or gals know of a product called Marvel mystery oil? I
bought a US gallon today for two quid as a cheap substitute for Red X
(should have been 3.50 but the tin is badly dented) the label makes a lot of
claims for the benefits from adding it to both sump oil and fuel.

In the thirty-plus years I have been driving cars, trucks, heavy equipment, 
and airplanes, I have NEVER had a single professional mechanic say anything 
good about any of the oil and fuel additives that are or have been on the market.  
The only two additives that have ever been recommended to me by professional 
mechanics are related to marine diesels.  One additive is to kill or prevent the formation 
of filter-clogging bacteria in diesel fuel.  The other, also for diesel fuel, is to restore 
the injector and injector pump lubrication properties that are disappearing as the 
marine industry shifts to low or no-sulfur fuel.

Some mechanics have told me that some oil additives, like STP, can actually 
be damaging to an engine.  Prior to hearing this, I put STP in my Land Rover 
Series III shortly after I bought the vehicle new in 1973.  The results were instantaneous 
and so bad, that after driving the ten blocks home from where I had put in the STP, I 
immediately changed the oil to get the STP out.  The only use for STP I've found is in 
the steering relay, where it's super-high viscosity provides sufficient lubrication but 
does not leak out past my long-worn-out lower seal.

A worn out, abused, or otherwise shot engine might conceivably benefit from an additive 
like STP, Marvel Mystery Oil, Bardahl, Slick 50, Prolong, etc. in the same manner that 
shoving a couple of (peeled) bananas inside the rocker cover of an engine might quiet a 
noisy, beyond-repair valve train for a while.  But all the high-time engines I have ever 
encountered in person or have had described by their owners have accumulated 
this time by being meticulously maintained, with frequent oil and filter changes using 
a reputable brand of straight "dinosaur" oil.  In none of the instances I can recall did the 
owner or operator use an additive of any kind.

According to the mechanics I've discussed this subject with over the last three 
decades, some additives do nothing at all, other than increasing the bank 
accounts of their manufacturers.  Others, like STP and Slick-50, have been known to 
create damaging conditions inside an engine.

Proof that the "miracle cure" of additives is pretty much a snake-oil business lies in the 
fact that, to my knowledge, no vehicle or engine manufacturers recommend their use.  Many 
warn AGAINST their use.  If these additives truly did deliver the benefits they claim, vehicle 
manufacturers would recommend them because warranty claims would be reduced, and the 
FAA would approve them for use in aircraft because engine reliability would be improved.

Some of these additives may provide short-term benefits under extreme conditions.  They 
may be of value to race car teams, for example, but race engines are run under extreme 
heat and stress conditions for very short periods of time, after which they are virtually 
rebuilt.  Bananas in a rocker box will do a great job of reducing clatter for a short time.  Later, 
they will cause all sorts of problems, but if you're only interested in what happens during the 
few minutes after you put them in, they are a viable additive.

All that said, I do use an additive with my SIII.  I use a lead-substitute, now that leaded 
fuel is unavailable in my part of the US.  However, this is one of those additives that, to 
my knowledge, doesn't hurt anything.  And I'm fully prepared to concede that it doesn't 
accomplish anything, either.  It's a case of "it may not do squat, but since it doesn't 
hurt anything and it's cheap, I'll use it on the slim chance that it might actually help a bit."

In my experience, the bottom line from professional mechanics regarding off-the-shelf 
"miracle" additives seems to be "use them at your own risk."  I know there are people 
on this list who use additives and will supply evidence of their effectiveness.  I'm 
certainly not in a position to deny their claims;  all I can do is pass on what I have 
heard over the years from people I've believed knew what they were talking about.

Other than the lead substitute and my one ten-minute encounter with STP, I have 
never used an additive of any kind in my SIII.  When the engine was partially torn 
down in the early 1980s at about 125,000 miles as a result of a couple of burned 
valves, the mechanic doing the job, a man who built V-8 and V-12 hydroplane engines 
as his primary occupation, was amazed at the lack of wear in my engine.  The crank, 
con rod, and cam bearings and bushings looked like they'd barely been broken in, he said.  
I attribute this to the basic robustness of the 2.25 engine, and the fact that from day one, 
I had changed the oil and filter every 3,000 miles as well as operated the engine fairly 
conservatively, rarely exceeding 3,000 rpm or operating for more than a few seconds at 
a time at high manifold pressures.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
Producer/Director, Boeing Video Services
telephone (425)393-7721
mobile (206)650-5622
fax: (425)393-7741
e-mail: [email-masked]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 22:25:07 +0100
From: Andy Smith <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Transmission Removal

In message <000c01c0e54a$477897c0$0c02020a@FrankElson>, Frank Elson
<[email-masked]> writes
>wonder if they make a mobile hoist for paving slabs, or if I can modify my
>engine hoist (which does very well getting gearboxes out as well)
>reason being, the new, improved, now healthy, me decided it was time to
>finish the patio I started building a handful of heart attacks ago - and put
>me back out! Ouch and doh!

Frank me old china, you should be able to hire a paving slab trolley
thing. I seem to remember we used to have some on the hire fleet at
work.
- ---
Andy Smith

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 22:05:22 -0400
From: Stephen West-Fisher <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Marvel mystery oil

Mike Rogers wrote:
> 
> Do any of you guys or gals know of a product called Marvel mystery oil? I
> bought a US gallon today for two quid as a cheap substitute for Red X
> (should have been 3.50 but the tin is badly dented) the label makes a lot of
> claims for the benefits from adding it to both sump oil and fuel.

My first plane was a Cessna 120. The A&P who did the pre-purchase for me
said he thought it had a valve not behaving properly, and so recommended
I put MMO in the fuel to see if it would help. I flew that old girl
until the next annual inspection, adding the MMO every time I fueled. At
the annual, we had to top that cylinder, so the MMO did no good :-)

Often wish I'd never sold that plane...

Steve

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 22:05:22 -0400
From: Stephen West-Fisher <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Marvel mystery oil

Mike Rogers wrote:
> 
> Do any of you guys or gals know of a product called Marvel mystery oil? I
> bought a US gallon today for two quid as a cheap substitute for Red X
> (should have been 3.50 but the tin is badly dented) the label makes a lot of
> claims for the benefits from adding it to both sump oil and fuel.

My first plane was a Cessna 120. The A&P who did the pre-purchase for me
said he thought it had a valve not behaving properly, and so recommended
I put MMO in the fuel to see if it would help. I flew that old girl
until the next annual inspection, adding the MMO every time I fueled. At
the annual, we had to top that cylinder, so the MMO did no good :-)

Often wish I'd never sold that plane...

Steve

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 18:18:18 -0400
From: "Alex Maiolo" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: It's a Marvel

> Mike Rogers" <[email-masked]> wrote:
> >Do any of you guys or gals know of a product called Marvel mystery oil? I
> >bought a US gallon today for two quid as a cheap substitute for Red X

Do we know of MMO? What an *adorable* question!

I've been farting around with Brit Cars for so long I just figured everybody
used the stuff.

Seems to work, but I use it more out of some genetically coded sense of
duty. You know: you eat three square meals a day, brush and floss, pump
blood, breathe...use Marvel Mystery Oil all over yer truck - the usual.

And who couldn't love that "golden age of motoring" packaging and the cone
top can (when I buy the smaller amounts to keep in the car).

Alex Maiolo
Chapel Hill NC

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 18:26:34 -0400
From: "Alex Maiolo" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: Marvel mystery oil

Marin-
Sometimes I think *you* have bananas in *your* rocker cover...
Seriously, do you really lump MMO in with snake oil like Slick 50? One is a
miracle cure, and the other is an additive that helps old engines operate
smoother as they age and move into this time of designer fuels for which
they weren't designed.
I think stuff like High Tach, which keeps your gears gooey after the oil has
settled, has done a good job preventing my diffs, ODs, etc from wearing -
it's not used to restore a worn out piece of trash. Neither is MMO.

Just my .02
Alex Maiolo
Chapel Hill NC

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 5:02 PM
Subject: LRO: Re: Marvel mystery oil

> Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 22:00:34 +0100
> From: "Mike Rogers" <[email-masked]>
> Subject: LRO: Marvel mystery oil
>
> >Do any of you guys or gals know of a product called Marvel mystery oil? I
> bought a US gallon today for two quid as a cheap substitute for Red X
> (should have been 3.50 but the tin is badly dented) the label makes a lot
of
> claims for the benefits from adding it to both sump oil and fuel.
>
> In the thirty-plus years I have been driving cars, trucks, heavy
equipment,
> and airplanes, I have NEVER had a single professional mechanic say
anything
> good about any of the oil and fuel additives that are or have been on the
market.
> The only two additives that have ever been recommended to me by
professional
> mechanics are related to marine diesels.  One additive is to kill or
prevent the formation
> of filter-clogging bacteria in diesel fuel.  The other, also for diesel
fuel, is to restore
> the injector and injector pump lubrication properties that are
disappearing as the
> marine industry shifts to low or no-sulfur fuel.
>
> Some mechanics have told me that some oil additives, like STP, can
actually
> be damaging to an engine.  Prior to hearing this, I put STP in my Land
Rover
> Series III shortly after I bought the vehicle new in 1973.  The results
were instantaneous
> and so bad, that after driving the ten blocks home from where I had put in
the STP, I
> immediately changed the oil to get the STP out.  The only use for STP I've
found is in
> the steering relay, where it's super-high viscosity provides sufficient
lubrication but
> does not leak out past my long-worn-out lower seal.
>
> A worn out, abused, or otherwise shot engine might conceivably benefit
from an additive
> like STP, Marvel Mystery Oil, Bardahl, Slick 50, Prolong, etc. in the same
manner that
> shoving a couple of (peeled) bananas inside the rocker cover of an engine
might quiet a
> noisy, beyond-repair valve train for a while.  But all the high-time
engines I have ever
> encountered in person or have had described by their owners have
accumulated
> this time by being meticulously maintained, with frequent oil and filter
changes using
> a reputable brand of straight "dinosaur" oil.  In none of the instances I
can recall did the
> owner or operator use an additive of any kind.
>
> According to the mechanics I've discussed this subject with over the last
three
> decades, some additives do nothing at all, other than increasing the bank
> accounts of their manufacturers.  Others, like STP and Slick-50, have been
known to
> create damaging conditions inside an engine.
>
> Proof that the "miracle cure" of additives is pretty much a snake-oil
business lies in the
> fact that, to my knowledge, no vehicle or engine manufacturers recommend
their use.  Many
> warn AGAINST their use.  If these additives truly did deliver the benefits
they claim, vehicle
> manufacturers would recommend them because warranty claims would be
reduced, and the
> FAA would approve them for use in aircraft because engine reliability
would be improved.
>
> Some of these additives may provide short-term benefits under extreme
conditions.  They
> may be of value to race car teams, for example, but race engines are run
under extreme
> heat and stress conditions for very short periods of time, after which
they are virtually
> rebuilt.  Bananas in a rocker box will do a great job of reducing clatter
for a short time.  Later,
> they will cause all sorts of problems, but if you're only interested in
what happens during the
> few minutes after you put them in, they are a viable additive.
>
> All that said, I do use an additive with my SIII.  I use a
lead-substitute, now that leaded
> fuel is unavailable in my part of the US.  However, this is one of those
additives that, to
> my knowledge, doesn't hurt anything.  And I'm fully prepared to concede
that it doesn't
> accomplish anything, either.  It's a case of "it may not do squat, but
since it doesn't
> hurt anything and it's cheap, I'll use it on the slim chance that it might
actually help a bit."
>
> In my experience, the bottom line from professional mechanics regarding
off-the-shelf
> "miracle" additives seems to be "use them at your own risk."  I know there
are people
> on this list who use additives and will supply evidence of their
effectiveness.  I'm
> certainly not in a position to deny their claims;  all I can do is pass on
what I have
> heard over the years from people I've believed knew what they were talking
about.
>
> Other than the lead substitute and my one ten-minute encounter with STP, I
have
> never used an additive of any kind in my SIII.  When the engine was
partially torn
> down in the early 1980s at about 125,000 miles as a result of a couple of
burned
> valves, the mechanic doing the job, a man who built V-8 and V-12
hydroplane engines
> as his primary occupation, was amazed at the lack of wear in my engine.
The crank,
> con rod, and cam bearings and bushings looked like they'd barely been
broken in, he said.
> I attribute this to the basic robustness of the 2.25 engine, and the fact
that from day one,
> I had changed the oil and filter every 3,000 miles as well as operated the
engine fairly
> conservatively, rarely exceeding 3,000 rpm or operating for more than a
few seconds at
> a time at high manifold pressures.
>
> _________________________________________
> C. Marin Faure
> Producer/Director, Boeing Video Services
> telephone (425)393-7721
> mobile (206)650-5622
> fax: (425)393-7741
> e-mail: [email-masked]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 16:48:06 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: high ratio transfer case

It costs 100 pounds, and is basically the gears from a suffix B
transfer case, which will lower the low range with a suffix c or
later tranny.

Tim Czajka wrote:
> 
> Hey - on the Ashcroft web site, next to the high ratio
> Series tcase kit, there is also a low ratio kit.  Looks
> like some gears to lower the Series tcase low range -
> anyone have info on this?  I don't recall seeing this
> before so maybe it's a new kit?  Not much info on the
> web site - doesn't say what the ratio drop is.
> 
> Tim Czajka
> 1972 Series III 88
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 16:49:28 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: high ratio transfer case

The ratio can be figured out with the green bible.

Tim Czajka wrote:
> 
> Hey - on the Ashcroft web site, next to the high ratio
> Series tcase kit, there is also a low ratio kit.  Looks
> like some gears to lower the Series tcase low range -
> anyone have info on this?  I don't recall seeing this
> before so maybe it's a new kit?  Not much info on the
> web site - doesn't say what the ratio drop is.
> 
> Tim Czajka
> 1972 Series III 88
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 19:19:31 -0500
From: "Garrick Olsen" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Sliders

I remember drooling over some pretty metal at the Kifaru.com website.  I 
think there were sliders and some sensible Jerry can holders.

- -Rik
1960 SWB SW
It was running fine before I took it apart...
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 17:03:02 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Strong back was Transmission Removal

Thought this was a universal saying "Strong Back, Weak Mind."  Not 
necessarily true.  I've got a weak back developed from working on Rovers.  
Think the Rover infection was originally responsible for weakening mind, at 
least rational reasoning when it comes to Rovers.  Muscling around heavy 
rover bits like blocks eventually manifested itself as a ruptured disc.  
Hopefully carving up my back will eventually cure the nerve damage from the 
disk problem.

Back problems are why I'm really down on playing King Kong with heavy parts. 
  No fun having your right leg go paralyzed.  I can pin the disc rupture to 
trying to lift one end of a bare engine block to clear a 1" step in my 
garage.  The initial paralysis went away almost as fast as it took me to hit 
the ground.  Unfortunately the damage had been done though its full 
ramifications took a couple of years to show up.  I was bothered by niggling 
lower back problems/sciatica for a couple of years, thereafter.  Then woke 
up from a nap in January with excruciating pain in my leg that proceded to 
creeping paralysis and numbness.  3 months after surgery I'm walking without 
a limp but cannot make the leg move forward quickly.  Looks like my running 
days are over.

So yes, you can muscle around most of the parts on a Rover.  Is it worth the 
risk to your anatomy??  NO WAY!!!!  The prospect of never walking again 
without crutches makes you acutely aware of your own mortality.  So be 
prudent and don't Roveritis ruin your body, its already too late for the 
mind.

>From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: "'Peter Ogilvie '" <[email-masked]>,   "[email-masked] '" 
>  <[email-masked]>
>Subject: RE: LRO: Transmission Removal
>Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 10:52:08 -0400
>
>
>
>
>Personally, I'll pay the $200 for the hoist.  I'll let the 'he man'
>types
>have all the fun of R&R'ing via the strong back method.  You know what
>they
>say about the relationship of back strength to other human attributes.
>
>So what do they say?
>Trevor "One ruptured disk, one shattered vertabra " Easton

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 17:07:34 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Strong back was Transmission Removal

Thought this was a universal saying "Strong Back, Weak Mind."  Not 
necessarily true.  I've got a weak back developed from working on Rovers.  
Think the Rover infection was originally responsible for weakening mind, at 
least rational reasoning.  Muscling around heavy rover bits like blocks 
eventually manifested itself as a ruptured disc.  Hopefully carving up my 
back will eventually cure the nerve damage from the disk problem.

Back problems are why I'm really down on playing King Kong with heavy parts. 
  No fun having your right leg go paralyzed.  I can pin the disc rupture to 
trying to lift one end of a bare engine block to clear a 1" step in my 
garage.  The initial paralysis went away almost as fast as it took me to hit 
the ground.  Unfortunately the damage had been done though its full 
ramifications took a couple of years to show up.  I was bothered by niggling 
lower back problems/sciatica for a couple of years, thereafter.  Then woke 
up from a nap in January with excruciating pain in my leg that proceded to 
creeping muscle paralysis and loss of feeling.  3 months after surgery I'm 
walking without a limp but cannot make the leg move forward quickly.  Looks 
like my running days are over.

So yes, you can muscle around most of the parts on a Rover.  Is it worth the 
risk to your anatomy??  NO WAY!!!!  The prospect of never walking again 
without crutches makes you acutely aware of your own mortality.  So be 
prudent and don't let Roveritis ruin your body, its already too late for the 
mind.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

>From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
>>You know what they say about the relationship of back strength to >>other 
>>human attributes.

>So what do they say?
>Trevor "One ruptured disk, one shattered vertabra " Easton

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 08:54:53 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: Series Gas Mileage

>So like the 
> folks driving Series machines with non-Rover engines, I too, have a 
> "Not-A-Rover."
> 

Hope you know I was kidding around :-)
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 08:59:30 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: high ratio transfer case

Hey Tim, I have been aware of this for about a year maybe.  Not sur eif it's
been around longer.
I wrote to em, was very interested in being able to drop the low range and
still use my Overdrive, not possible.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 06:15:29 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Re: high ratio transfer case

Why isn't it possible?  The gear on the intermediate shaft that engages
the mainshaft gear has to be the same size as stock, so the od would
still work.

Hope Peter wrote:
> 
> Hey Tim, I have been aware of this for about a year maybe.  Not sur eif it's
> been around longer.
> I wrote to em, was very interested in being able to drop the low range and
> still use my Overdrive, not possible.
> Pete

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 09:37:35 -0400
From: "d.h.lowe" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Mad May Muddiness

I have stuffed all the fleet with the contents of the shed and garage so that I
can drive them over one at a time and park them. I can then unload and sort
them at my leisure. Bill siad he might be over this weekend so drop by. I am
getting rid of the SD1 stuff, including a rusty car that runs well and another
that is totally rusted but still has the engine in it.
Dave

Easton Trevor A wrote:

> Need any assistance moving? Scavenging for useful parts being the incentive
> of course. (TANSTAAFL)
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: d.h.lowe [SMTP:[email-masked]]
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 9:35 PM
> > To:   [email-masked]
> > Subject:      Re: LRO: Mad May Muddiness
> >
> > Too busy packing !!!!!!! CFB Pickering relocates to CFB Bowmanville next
> > month.
> > Psst  want any car parts ....cheap.
> >
> > The Eastons wrote:
> >
> > > TARC's Mad May Muddiness takes place this weekend Sunday May 27,
> > > Starting fro 124 Central Avenue Grimsby. at 12 Noon. A tour of the
> > > unimproved roads on the Niagara escarpment. Plenty of rain the last
> > > couple of days so trails should be quite challenging. All are welcome.
> >
> >

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 14:12:40 
From: "Chris Oles" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: no high range in txfr case

I'm at the tail end of a frame over and am now ready for road testing. 
Installed a Paddocks newly-rebuilt SIIa gearbox and am haivng a slight 
problem.  The truck will move under it's own power in low range.  In high 
range, even with the truck in gear, it revs like the txfr case is in 
neutral.  I'm baffled.  Looked at the linkage from under the truck and it 
does appear to be extending fully.  Before I take the floor back out and 
start major disassembly, can anyone give me some quick things to check?

I'm in digest mode so feel free to email directly in addition to the list.

Thanks!

Chris
70 SIIa 88
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 16:26:06 +0100
From: "Neil Brownlee" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: One of THOSE days

Nice day, thinks I. I'll move Harriet onto the drive (from the lawn!) so I
can fix the brake master cylinder. Get in, engine turns on first key turn,
loverly. Foot on clutch, hmm, not much pressure (at back of mind), release
hand brake, release clutch and roll backwards.....ARGH. Handbrake ON, jump
out. Land Rover blocking road. No way of moving it forward up hill. Look at
Disco (shining in the sun .. NOT), open back door, remove winching kit.
Attach winching kit to front, attach cable to LR and off we go. Many MANY
stares from neighbours, Land Rover happily parked where it was before, cable
nicely wound back on to drum :)

So, question, what would cause the clutch to be stuck OFF? Hints?
- -------------------------------------------------------------

Neil

1978 Land Rover Series III 109" Ex-MOD - 'Harriet'
1997 Land Rover Discovery V8i ES - 'Piglet' - XD9000i, Terrain Master Winch
Bumper & Hi-Lift carrier, Bearmach steering/sump guard, Mantec Side
Protection Sills, Scorpion Racing +2" suspension lift, De-Carbon Shocks,
Southdown Fuel Tank Guard, 235/85 General Grabber MT's, WH Wheelcarriers
Diff Guards
1998 Land Rover Freelander - 'Misty'

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 May 01 08:25:29 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Hotfoot!

>discovering some of the wonderful habits of our Series trucks. The newest 
>is the hot footwell. The cause is obvious - that toasty exhaust pipe hiding 
>behind a thin aluminium sheet. Has anyone tried insulating the pipe or the 
>transmission tunnel? I'd prefer to put the insulation on the pipe or close 
>to it instead of inside the truck. I might even have some old header wrap 
>around somewhere. Suggestions, comments, dire warnings?

When I first got The Green Rover, she need a klot of work just to get her 
going and one of the early itms was replacing a bad steering box.  Well I 
didn't get around to replacing the rear wing splash shield and I have 
never had a hot foot well problem.  I think the greatly increased airflow 
at the down pipe carries most of the heat away and helps kool the  foot 
well.  The down side is that I spend a lot more time cleaning dirt off 
the pedel boxes and maybe I get more water dripping down the pedals than 
those with thee splash shields in place.

My exhaust pipe runs directly inder my left underseat fuel tank.  I wrap 
the pipe for the lenth it is under my fuel tank plus a little.  I have 
had no ill effects from wraping just a short part of the system.

So I think you can get away with just wraping the exhause down pipe.

Take care,

TeriAnn         
                      http://www.overlander.net

  The world's most complete set of links connecting Rover 4X4 owners
  with Rover parts, service, accessory & sales companies world wide.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 16:27:53 +0100
From: "Neil Brownlee" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Rock sliders

*sulk*...right, no beer for you at Billing! =:-)p
- -------------------------------------------------------------

Neil

1978 Land Rover Series III 109" Ex-MOD - 'Harriet'
1997 Land Rover Discovery V8i ES - 'Piglet' - XD9000i, Terrain Master Winch
Bumper & Hi-Lift carrier, Bearmach steering/sump guard, Mantec Side
Protection Sills, Scorpion Racing +2" suspension lift, De-Carbon Shocks,
Southdown Fuel Tank Guard, 235/85 General Grabber MT's, WH Wheelcarriers
Diff Guards
1998 Land Rover Freelander - 'Misty'
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Norris" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 9:01 PM
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Rock sliders

> At least you wouldn't "scratch" any of your nicely polished "chassis".
Hey,
> T-cut-man...??!!
> (VBG!!)
> PhilN
> -----Original Message--VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
> From: Neil Brownlee <[email-masked]>
>
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> To: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
> Date: 24 May 2001 20:15
> Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Rock sliders......
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #386
**********************************************