Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #385

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 14:44:53 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *  Friday, May 25 2001  Volume 01 : Number 385

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 19:01:18 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: RE: Rock sliders

Think bigger Trevor. Bigger!!

Using you're ingenious rockslider idea, I propose a skid plate system 
covering the entire undercarriage. Getting high centered would be no problem 
after installing that.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 13:02:27 -0600
From: Rick Grant <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: B'wana pole, was Transmission Removal

At 14:32 24/05/01 -0400, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus, wrote

>Actually, that puts me to mind of a woodworking shop i once saw in "Fine
>Woodworking". This shop was essentially a one-car-garage sized shed - and a
>tight one at that. Where the resawing bandsaw was the owner had built two
>swing-down doors into the walls - this way, he could swing the doors down
>(which had rollers on them) and pass timbers of any length through the saw
>by running them in and out through the hatches!

I saw that same picture, years and years ago, and I adapted the idea so I 
could use my tablesaw in what amounted to a garden shed.  It worked just 
fine until the first Ottawa winter came along.

                                             Rick Grant

  				  1959 Series II   "88"
				  VORIZO

Rick Grant Communications
Media and Crisis Management
Calgary Ottawa
www.rickgrant.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 20:08:36 +0100
From: "Neil Brownlee" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Rock sliders

Hey, take it one step firther, you could fold up the wheels, James Bond
style, and roll over the rocks with your underbody armoured conveyor
belt...er....*slap*

- -------------------------------------------------------------

Neil

1978 Land Rover Series III 109" Ex-MOD - 'Harriet'
1997 Land Rover Discovery V8i ES - 'Piglet' - XD9000i, Terrain Master Winch
Bumper & Hi-Lift carrier, Bearmach steering/sump guard, Mantec Side
Protection Sills, Scorpion Racing +2" suspension lift, De-Carbon Shocks,
Southdown Fuel Tank Guard, 235/85 General Grabber MT's, WH Wheelcarriers
Diff Guards
1998 Land Rover Freelander - 'Misty'
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 8:01 PM
Subject: RE: LRO: RE: Rock sliders

> Think bigger Trevor. Bigger!!
>
> Using you're ingenious rockslider idea, I propose a skid plate system
> covering the entire undercarriage. Getting high centered would be no
problem
> after installing that.
>
> Niall Forbes
> 66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
> Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
> The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm
>
> "See the happy moron,
> He doesn't give a damn.
> I wish I were a moron.
> My God! Perhaps I am!"
> --author unknown
>
> _________________________________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 12:13:02 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Re: Rattly V8

> ----------
> From: 	Paul Oxley[SMTP:[email-masked]]
> Sent: 	Monday, May 21, 2001 5:13 AM
> To: 	Marin Faure
> Subject: 	Re: LRO: Re: Rattly V8
> 
>I have a 110 V8 with the most impossibly
> loud, metallic tapping noise that ever did emanate from an engine. It
> sounds as if a conrod is about to exit the block....We have had the heads 
> off on more occasions than I can recall. Have
> replace conrod, pistons, all bearings, hydraulic lifters. Have miked and
> replaced handfuls of push rods, at least one entire rocker assembly and
> have rebuilt the oil pump twice with new gears. And still the hammering
> continues.
> 
You've got a tough thing to diagnose, there.  If you've replaced 
all the lifters, it isn't them, unless you got a bad one in the replacement 
set, but then the sound would change, you would expect.

Other things that come to mind, but may have nothing to do with your 
sound, are partially blocked oil passage(s), broken or loose piston 
ring(s), worn or oddly shaped cam lobe(s), broken valve spring(s), 
worn or loose rocker shaft (you say you've changed one of them, however).  
The rocker shafts wear on the underside, not on the top, so the evidence is almost 
impossible to detect from above.  If you have removed the shafts and 
rockers at some point, however, the shaft wear should have been very 
obvious, if there was any.

A couple of non-engine items that could conceivably cause such a noise, 
although not likely, are a partially delaminated fan or accessory belt; a bad bearing 
or bushing in the alternator, water pump, power steering pump, air conditioning 
pump; a loose accessory mount; something hitting the fan or rotating portions of 
an accessory.

Troubleshooting is the hardest part of vehicle repair, and is one reason dealership 
charges are so high.  Few of their "mechanics" are very good at troubleshooting, so their 
solution is to keep replacing stuff until the problem goes away.  If they get lucky on the first 
component, great.  But if the first replacement doesn't do it, and they start replacing additional 
items in their attempt to solve the problem, it can get very expensive, very fast.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
Producer/Director, Boeing Video Services
telephone (425)393-7721
mobile (206)650-5622
fax: (425)393-7741
e-mail: [email-masked]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 12:18:46 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: retransmission Removal

Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 11:27:36 -0500
From: "Brian F. Waltman" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Transmission Removal

>My question concerns removal of the tranny with a
frame that has the bolted on cross member. (Marsland Galvanized Frame)  I
understand that with this bolted on cross member feature, it is possible to
drop the tranny out the bottom instead of taking out the seat box and
removing from the top.

My impression was that the bolt-on crossmember was developed to make 
it easier to remove the transmission.  You will still have to remove the floor 
panels and transmission tunnel cover to get at the fasteners on top 
of the transmission, gear lever, etc.  However, I don't believe you have 
to remove the seat box.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
Producer/Director, Boeing Video Services
telephone (425)393-7721
mobile (206)650-5622
fax: (425)393-7741
e-mail: [email-masked]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 12:33:48 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Tranny Problems

Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 15:26:41 -0600
From: "Todd Kendrick" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Tranny Problems

>So instead of putting the OD back on I just put the =
mainshaft bearing housing back on. Now the truck will not move. In the =
forward gears I get no noise or anything; in reverse it gives a =
spinning/whining sound from the gearbox.

At the risk of insulting your intelligence, I assume you also 
replaced the small overdrive input gear on the end of the transmission 
output shaft with the "stock" output gear that the small overdrive gear 
replaces.  The small overdrive gear does not mate with the transfer 
case intermediate gear, only the stock output gear (or the overdrive 
output gear) does.  Simply putting on the PTO cover back on the 
transmission won't accomplish anything unless you replace the output 
gear, too.

> So I go back and try and put the OD back on and it does not want to =
mount back flush w/ the gearbox.

Perhaps you did not let the little overdrive drive gear and the overdrive input 
gear line up.  Make sure the transmission and transfer case are both in neutral 
when you install the overdrive, as this will allow the gears to rotate the little bit 
necessary to let all the teeth of everything line up and mate as you wiggle the 
overdrive around.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
Producer/Director, Boeing Video Services
telephone (425)393-7721
mobile (206)650-5622
fax: (425)393-7741
e-mail: [email-masked]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 13:36:39 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Rock sliders

The soviets had a similar setup on their armored reconnaissance
vehicle--the BRDM.  This baby (which only has 4 wheels) has a pair of
chain driven wheels on each side in the middle of the thing that look
like they're hydraulically lowered when you get hi-centered.  Their
military vehicles are super, super well made (i.e. low tolerances, idiot
proof, and lots and lots of common sense ideas incorporated, like the BMP
coming equipped with a side-mounted log to chain across the tracks when
you get stuck.)

bill

On Thu, 24 May 2001 13:55:56 -0400 Easton Trevor A
<[email-masked]> writes:
> Teri-Ann's post started me thinking (Lord save us). If the rock 
> slider was
> equipped with a series of rollers set inside the U channel and a 
> belt was
> fitted around said rollers then instead of sliding one could roll 
> gracefully
> across the rocks. The next iteration being to apply power to the 
> rollers and
> make it into a mini tank track. One of those supermarket roller 
> conveyors
> could provide all the parts needed for the basic version.
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 12:56:17 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Series Gas Mileage

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 07:39:43 -0400
From: "KURT W. KRAUSS" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Series Gas Mileage

>I'd like to hear what others are experiencing as to gas mileage and
travel range on their Series vehicles.  I seem to be able to travel only
about 100 miles between fill ups on my 1973 SIII with a (incorrect)
Solex carb from the prior owner.

I've owned a 1973 SIII-88 since new.  When new, it got a measured 
13-15 mpg in town, and 15-17 on the highway.  I installed a Fairey 
overdrive within a year of buying the vehicle, and on the highway the 
mileage changed to 17-20 mpg (I don't use the overdrive in town).
I have always run 7.00 X 15.00 tires, and I have always run a stock 
36IV Zenith carburetor except 1979-1982 when I ran a 
Rochester.

The speedometer/odometer broke during a trip to the Yukon in 1977, so 
I removed it and installed a different instrument panel made from a sheet 
of aircraft aluminum.  I moved the manifold pressure gauge to the position 
formerly occupied by the speedometer/odometer, so since then I have had 
no way of measuring my speed or mileage.  However, it is exactly 100 miles 
from our house to the marina in Bellingham, WA where our trawler is moored.  
For the most part, the drive is on two freeways, I-405 and I-5.  There are some 
grades, but much of the route is more or less level.  We drive up and back to the 
boat almost every weekend, and when I use the SIII for this, it uses exactly five 
gallons of fuel each direction.  Five into 100 is twenty, last time I looked, so it 
would seem I'm still getting the same highway mileage I did when the vehicle 
was new after the overdrive installation: 17-20 mpg. If I have to buck a strong 
headwind during the drive, the mileage will drop noticeably, but if the wind isn't 
a factor, I use five gallons each way.

One hundred miles between fill-ups doesn't sound so good.  There could be 
several things causing this, including a carburetor problem.  However, a 
little-known culprit could be the oil-bath air cleaner, if you are running the stock 
filter.  If the oil level is the tiniest bit higher than the fill level scribed into the 
base, even an eighth of an inch is too much, the airflow through the cleaner 
will be restricted, and your mileage will plummet.  Had this happen once, and I was 
probably getting 10 mpg or less, even on the highway.  I could practically see the 
fuel gauge going down.

A good quick-and-dirty way to check your mixture and ignition burn is to look at the 
inside of the exhaust pipe after a drive.  Not a short drive to the store, but one 
of ten miles or more after you've pushed the choke off.  The inside of the pipe 
should be light gray or brown.  If it's black, your mixture is too rich, or you 
are not getting proper ignition and burning of the mixture in the cylinders.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
Producer/Director, Boeing Video Services
telephone (425)393-7721
mobile (206)650-5622
fax: (425)393-7741
e-mail: [email-masked]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 14:08:19 -0600
From: Ivan Van Laningham <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: B'wana pole, was Transmission Removal

Hi All--

Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:
> 
> John weasels with:
> 
> Last thing I need is
> someone posting how they used this method and put out a window.
> Cheers!
> 
> Actually, that puts me to mind of a woodworking shop i once saw in "Fine
> Woodworking". This shop was essentially a one-car-garage sized shed - and a
> tight one at that. Where the resawing bandsaw was the owner had built two
> swing-down doors into the walls - this way, he could swing the doors down
> (which had rollers on them) and pass timbers of any length through the saw
> by running them in and out through the hatches!
> 
> Talk about space efficient!
> 

Or talk about cutting the unwary passerby in half. ...

<we're-not-bloodthirsty-no-sirree>-ly y'rs,
Ivan;-)
- ----------------------------------------------
Ivan Van Laningham
Symantec
http://www.pauahtun.org 
http://www.foretec.com/python/workshops/1998-11/proceedings.html
Army Signal Corps:  Cu Chi, Class of '70
Author:  Teach Yourself Python in 24 Hours

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 16:41:08 -0800
From: "Bruce D. Fowler" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Oil seal general question

- -----Original Message-----
From: SJH

:I'm in the process of rebuilding a chain drive koenig winch and last
:night startedlooking at reinstalling seals and bearings.
                           Chop
: The chain case contains a couple of oil
:seals, one for the dog clutch shifter shaft, and one for the input shaft
:from the crank.  These are simple cup shaped metal/rubber seals.  Where
:each of them fits, there appears to be enough room to double them up
:because they are thinner than the original seals, but it looks as if when
:I do this, there will be no space behind the seal.  The inner of the two
:oil seals will rest up against the case, inside the hole in which the
:seals seat.  Is it necessary to have a space behind the seals between the
:seal and the housing?  When I pulled the old seals, there was a space.
: Is it a bad idea to double the seals up?

Simon,

I like you thought it would be a good idea to double up the inputshaft
oil seal....
Three years later when I needed to replace the chain ( yea, I should've
done it then)
I found the outer of the two seals dry cracked, This time I only put one
in there.
So, my guess is by the time the inner seal fails the outer one won't hold
much hypoid back.

Bruce F.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 01:39:35 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Rock sliders

> But you would still have either a right angle for something you are
> sliding over to encounter or a sharp ramp.  All something like this means
> is that you could hit something harder without damage.  A long ramp would
> gradually lift the tank over the obstical  without needing to stop and
> jack the fuel tank over.

Ahh, I see.  So the skid plate needs to reach further forward and be angled
so as to "slide" over the obstacle.

Guess the design of axle protectors and such should have the same ramped
shape.
Thanks for the idea.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 13:46:00 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Transmission Removal

You can play 'he man' and muscle out the transmission, complete with 
transfer case, by yourself.  Or you can buy a fold up 2,000# hoist for 
around $200.  The first way could cost you more than $10,000 in 
recontructive surgery and/or repairs to dropped parts, not to mention the 
fun of putting the trans. back in.  The second way is relatively painless 
and you can use the hoist for all sorts of other fun stuff.

Personally, I'll pay the $200 for the hoist.  I'll let the 'he man' types 
have all the fun of R&R'ing via the strong back method.  You know what they 
say about the relationship of back strength to other human attributes.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

>From: Lori Sickley <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: [email-masked]
>Subject: Re: LRO: Transmission Removal
>Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 11:22:19 -0400
>
>With the roof on here....for those wanting a visual.
>http://www.simplerthyme.com/pics/lift.html
>
>
>Lori in PA
>who now has reverse without holding the shifter with her foot : )
>http://www.simplerthyme.com/store/LR.html
>
>
>>>Bollocks yerself, Bobeck!
>>>
>>> > Without a crane, how do you get
>>> >the trans out the door of the truck when you come out the top?
>>>
>>> >Dave
>>>
>>>Easily - done it more than once w/ a lousy Come-along and the roof off in
>>>my garage...or under a tree...or under a swing set...or wherever.
>>>
>>>I do, however, have an engine crane now and tend not to perform such
>>>silliness anymore.
>>>
>>>                ajr
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 14:05:18 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Series Gas Mileage

My 109 pick up with 2.5 cam and 32/26 Weber is getting 13.5mpg.  Driving 
typically involves a 1000' altitude gain/loss each way, some 4wd on a daily 
basis so mileage would be to the low end of what you should expect.  My 88's 
typically deliver 15mpg for same type of driving but with a bone stock 2 
1/4.  Have gotten 18mpg at 55mph in all highway driving.

The only time mileage has ever dropped below 13mpg, there was something 
wrong.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

>From: "KURT W. KRAUSS" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
>Subject: LRO: Series Gas Mileage
>Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 07:39:43 -0400
>
>I'd like to hear what others are experiencing as to gas mileage and
>travel range on their Series vehicles.  I seem to be able to travel only
>about 100 miles between fill ups on my 1973 SIII with a (incorrect)
>Solex carb from the prior owner.  There are no gas leaks.  Some of you
>may recall that this was the vehicle that was backfiring (popping)
>during deceleration and I complained about smoking during start up.
>Subsequently, valve seals were replaced, so no more smoking and timing
>was set and a new set of plugs were installed.  In any event, it appears
>that I'm only getting about 11-12 mpg and with a 10 gallon tank, I can
>see why so many jerry cans and auxiliary tanks are sold.  I do burn
>hi-test with a lead substitute.
>Thanks for input.
>Kurt W. Krauss
>73 NAS SIII
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 21:38:17 -0400
From: "Braman Wing" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Liftgate/Lid question...

I converted my lid to gas springs a couple of years ago... I think it makes
a world of difference, especially when you're trying to balance an armload
of stuff while at the same time opening the tailgate, trying to unclip the
rod, etc. I designed it so that the springs help hold the lid shut in the
closed position, which cuts down on a lot of rattles. I used easily
available gas springs and made up brackets to attach to the tailgate with
existing holes. The only holes I had to drill were in the top where the rods
mount. I was going to use the original mount where the solid rods were, but
my top had fatigue cracks from years of abuse, so I moved them a bit lower.
It also worked out better from a spring force standpoint. I was going to
make up kits and sell them, but never got around to it. If anyone is
interested in seeing my setup, I'll take some pictures and measurements this
weekend and try to find the spring specs. It's pretty easy to fabricate
yourself, but I could still make up some kits if anyone was interested.

Braman

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 21:42:03 -0700
From: "Gerry Elam" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Was:  Re: LRO: parabolic springs? Fact or fad?: Now: danger in the desert

- ------=_NextPart_001_0005_01C0E49A.5F70D320
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

>Yep, 110 today in PHX.... am driving the Discovery today and still DIDN'=
T
>use the air.  We're headed out to the Devil's Highway  (southern AZ clos=
e
>to the Mexico border) this weekend where hopefully, it'll cool down to a
>mere 103.

It's a tough world for some people.   Yesterday and today, there were 14 =
illegals found in the desert that died from exposure.  It was 112 in Yuma=
 and in this area, it was reported to be 117.  I had to call the guy who =
is going with me and warn him that this is where we're headed on Saturday=
.  Luckily, it gets down to the 70s and 60s at night.

This has been a route for people crossing the desert since the early 1500=
's when the Spanish headed from Mexico towards the west coat.  Along this=
 trail, there are something like several hundred graves from those who di=
dn't survive the crossing.  Those who died over the last 48-hours where d=
umped by their "coyote" without any food or water and told the interstate=
 was just ahead.  There's a special place in hell for people like this.

Off my soap box/trip report to follow on Monday.

Cheers,
Gerry Elam
PHX AZ<br clear=3Dall><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a hr=
ef=3D"http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></p>

- ------=_NextPart_001_0005_01C0E49A.5F70D320
Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>&gt;Yep, 110 t=
oday in PHX.... am driving the Discovery today and still DIDN'T<BR>&gt;us=
e the air.&nbsp; We're headed out to the Devil's Highway&nbsp; (southern =
AZ close<BR>&gt;to the Mexico border) this weekend where hopefully, it'll=
 cool down to a<BR>&gt;mere 103.<BR></DIV> <DIV>It's a tough world for so=
me people.&nbsp;&nbsp; Yesterday and today, there were 14 illegals found =
in the desert that died from exposure.&nbsp; It was 112 in Yuma and in th=
is area, it was reported to be 117.&nbsp; I had to call the guy who is go=
ing with me and warn him that this is where we're headed on Saturday.&nbs=
p; Luckily, it gets down to the 70s and 60s at night.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</=
DIV> <DIV>This has been a route for people crossing the desert since the =
early 1500's when the Spanish headed from Mexico towards the west coat.&n=
bsp; Along this trail, there are something like several hundred graves fr=
om those who didn't survive the crossing.&nbsp; Those who died over the l=
ast 48-hours where dumped by their "coyote" without any food or water and=
 told the interstate was just ahead.&nbsp; There's a special place in hel=
l for people like this.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Off my soap box/trip=
 report to follow on Monday.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Cheers,<BR>Gerr=
y Elam</DIV> <DIV>PHX AZ</DIV></BODY></HTML><DIV><BR><br clear=3Dall><hr>=
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a href=3D"http://explorer.msn.=
com">http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></p></DIV>

- ------=_NextPart_001_0005_01C0E49A.5F70D320--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 23:06:07 -0700
From: aaron <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: tropical roof repair

I just bought a "new" tropical roof that has a couple of holes in it.
Does anyone know the gauge aluminium I should use to make replacement pieces?
Also does 3 in 1 rod or alumaweld work on birmabright?
Does anyone have any tips or experiences working with it if it does?
Thanks in advance,
Aaron

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 02:05:11 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Re:Rock Sliders 

In a message dated 5/24/2001 11:54:07 AM US Mountain Standard Time, "Hope 
Peter" <[email-masked]>writes:

> I have made some.  They are designed to replace the standard sills.  On the
>  88 the mount to the bulkhead outrigger and the outrigger with the tub
>  mounts.  How similar is your chassis to a standard 109 pickup?

The truck is in pieces for painting this weekend, so I won't be able to 
compare it to a civilian three door regular frame until next week.  It does 
have the two under seat tanks (and their respective outriggers) and the sawed 
off ambulance body outriggers.  The sills are useless, they're already long 
gone in favor of some sliders.

Several suggestions on buying them have been made, and are appreciated.  Due 
to the eccentricities of the ambulance heritage and the Land Rover 
manufacturing curiosities I probably will be better off having them custom 
fabricated.  I was going to do this in conjunction with some fuel tank 
shields similar to those from Kifaru.  In Arizona, rocks love Land Rovers and 
Land Rovers love rocks, so a little extra insurance would be in order.

I thought the suggestion for the slider / conveyor / roller / tank tread was 
... er, creative.  If you go that far, why not just add a few JATOs on each 
side and turn it into a Harrier Jump Rover?  Talk about your ground 
clearance!  That would be in keeping with the military heritage.  The fact 
that it was once an ambulance may come in handy here too. 
;-)

Let's see, paint job, TI Console parabolics installation, then I get to try 
out the ACR head with a Rochester to see how close it comes to the ACR / SU 
combo ... I've got a busy weekend in store.

Bob Sharp
Tucson, AZ
The slumbering herd on the Rover Ranch:
52 Series I 80"
53 Series I 80"
60 Series II 88"
63 Series IIa 88"
71 Series IIa 109"
96 Discovery Series I 

"Why is it that every project you complete on a Land Rover results in 
knowledge and skills you hope you never need to use again?"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 08:07:51 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: Series Gas Mileage

> The speedometer/odometer broke during a trip to the Yukon in 1977, so
> I removed it and installed a different instrument panel made from a sheet
> of aircraft aluminum.  I moved the manifold pressure gauge to the position
> formerly occupied by the speedometer/odometer

What's this?  A nonstock part in a Rover? For shame...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 06:50:46 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: tropical roof repair

>Also does 3 in 1 rod or alumaweld work on birmabright?

Yes. It does. The material has to be VERY clean - no contamination is
tolerable.

>Does anyone have any tips or experiences working with it if it does?

Heat, heat, heat and more heat is the name of the game. Aluminum will wick
the heat away so fast that even a beefy MAPP torch has trouble with
soldeing this stuff.

               ajr

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 08:59:45 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Brakes !!!!!!!!!!

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Paul:

Bingo  Welded the posts last night and Now have great brakes. Thank You for 
your input.

Dave Walls
1965 IIa 88

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Paul:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>Bingo &nbsp;Welded the posts last night and Now have great brakes. Thank You for 
<BR>your input.
<BR>
<BR>Dave Walls
<BR>1965 IIa 88</FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 22:00:34 +0100
From: "Mike Rogers" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Marvel mystery oil

Do any of you guys or gals know of a product called Marvel mystery oil? I
bought a US gallon today for two quid as a cheap substitute for Red X
(should have been 3.50 but the tin is badly dented) the label makes a lot of
claims for the benefits from adding it to both sump oil and fuel.

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid
LPG V8 110 project (thanks to Marijn)
(if you can't get there in a Land Rover you can't get there)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 09:41:56 -0400
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Marvel mystery oil

All I know is they used to be based (PROBABLY STILL ARE) in Port Chester,
NY, accross from the old Life Saver building.

Sorry, can't help.  Some of the more seasoned guys might know more.

Matt

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 09:53:05 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Marvel mystery oil

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 10:25:05 -0400
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: B'wana pole, was Transmission Removal

John weasels with:

Last thing I need is
someone posting how they used this method and put out a window.

Actually, that puts me to mind of a woodworking shop i once saw in "Fine
Woodworking".  this way, he could swing the doors
down
(which had rollers on them) and pass timbers of any length 

I hope he checked the capacity of the rollers first :-)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 07:32:40 -0700
From: "Rich & Lori Williams" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Dirt inside the chassis

Brief progress report on my 109 frame-off:  Busy day yesterday.  Took the
bulkhead, door posts, breakfast, fan, fan shroud, seat rail bits, battery
box/oil canister thingamabob and the mud flaps (the metal ones) to the sand
blasters.  Two hours later they were done and I was headed back home to get
everything covered in a couple coats of etching primer.  By 10 pm I had
sanding primer on some things and a few bits that still needed a bit more
etching primer.

At this point all I have that resembles a truck is a rolling chassis with a
rear tub.  That's coming off this weekend, then I can get to work on the
chassis.  No rot found yet but it's on its way.

My question relates to the outriggers where the rear springs connect to the
frame.  The outside ends are closed but for a 3/4" opening along the bottom
edge.  I am assuming that they are all the same - right?  Anyway, this is a
wonderful soil gathering device as it is full of it - dirt that is.  And
this is one place I have seem frames rotted through and through - no wonder.
So is there a purpose to this opening at the end of the outrigger?  If not,
is it smart to close it up?  And how does one get all the crud out of there?
I have considered pointing the power washer down in there and blasting out
as much as possible.  What about adding some carefully placed drain holes to
assist in the flushing.  Any thoughts, etc. are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Rich Williams
'60 SII 109 SW "Lucy"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 10:52:08 -0400
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Transmission Removal

Personally, I'll pay the $200 for the hoist.  I'll let the 'he man'
types 
have all the fun of R&R'ing via the strong back method.  You know what
they 
say about the relationship of back strength to other human attributes.

So what do they say?
Trevor "One ruptured disk, one shattered vertabra " Easton

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 10:56:17 -0400
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: RE: Rock sliders

Ahh, I see.  So the skid plate needs to reach further forward and be
angled
so as to "slide" over the obstacle.

Guess the design of axle protectors and such should have the same ramped
shape.
Thanks for the idea.
Pete

I've often thought that the front protection should be an articulated plate
attached to the ends of the frame on a hinge and to the bottom of the axle
housing via two short links to accomodate the length changes as the axle
moves.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 08:26:00 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Marvel mystery oil

Oh yes,  Marvel Mystry Oil. I put it in my plane's oil and fuel to protect the
valves. I use it in the car.  I clean the Range Rovers engine internally with
it, I use it to quieten stuck hydraulic lifters in the Audi, I drink it and
bathe in it and wash my hair with it, I work for the factory that makes it and
get gallons for free....  All that was true except for the part after the
drinking it.  Seriously, we use it in the planes, but strictly should not,
because it is not FAA approved.  I use it in my cars and Landrovers.  the older
Land Rover engine and the plane are from the 1950's.  They were not designed to
run on the rarified leaded 100 octane available today. The Land Rovers were
running on 5 star in Blighty when I lived there and the planes need more lead.
It is great stuff. Use it liberally.
I put Prolong in my 1952 Cessna 170 plane a few years ago because it had a high
time engine and the valve guides are notoriously weak on that engine.  They were
coated with carbon and eventually they will burn or leak. I saw an ad on TV
where a Dodge Viper did 200 fast laps around a track in the Arizona Desert with
no oil in it after being treated with Prolong. I thought "Ah, that is what I
need" and bought some.  It did not say "Not for use in Aircraft" on the bottle
and neither did it say "please use in Aircraft"  Anyway I put in the required
amount and 3 hours later had two out of six exhaust valves stick wide open.  I
was flying at the time and the two affected cylinders were on the same side so
she was shaking like a wet dog. After I landed and pulled of the rocker covers I
saw it was the Prolong that had coated the carbon to the point where it gripped
the valve stem and held it open in the guide.  Marvel Mystry Oil sounds like
some cure-all-elixier-hype because of it's name, but it is good.
Mark Pilkington

Mike Rogers wrote:

> Do any of you guys or gals know of a product called Marvel mystery oil? I
> bought a US gallon today for two quid as a cheap substitute for Red X
> (should have been 3.50 but the tin is badly dented) the label makes a lot of
> claims for the benefits from adding it to both sump oil and fuel.
>
> Mike Rogers
> Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid
> LPG V8 110 project (thanks to Marijn)
> (if you can't get there in a Land Rover you can't get there)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 11:42:55 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Marvel mystery oil

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In a message dated 5/25/01 9:33:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

Yup.  Good stuff and smells great too.  I use it intermittently when I add 
petrol (every 3rd or 4th tankful).  I also use it when working engine stuff 
(both to clean the surface and to lightly oil it)--not as a replacement of 
assembly lube though.

I also squirt a bit into the cylinders of engines which sit for a while 
(about once a month)

Nate

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 5/25/01 9:33:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
<BR>[email-masked] writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Do any of you guys or gals know of a product called Marvel mystery oil? </BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Yup. &nbsp;Good stuff and smells great too. &nbsp;I use it intermittently when I add 
<BR>petrol (every 3rd or 4th tankful). &nbsp;I also use it when working engine stuff 
<BR>(both to clean the surface and to lightly oil it)--not as a replacement of 
<BR>assembly lube though.
<BR>
<BR>I also squirt a bit into the cylinders of engines which sit for a while 
<BR>(about once a month)
<BR>
<BR>Nate</FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 19:55:52 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Dirt inside the chassis

I like drain holes.  Unless you pick up rocks or big clumps of mud, most
stuff will hopefully just run out.  Helps to be able to run water in the
drain hole and out the top

Better yet is to seal up the space and have drain holes.  This way nothing
bigger then the drain gets in there.  You can squirt waxoyl periodically
into the space, and if you like get some rubber shipping plugs to seal up
the drain holes.

I only have a couple of completely closed off box section in my fame, and
these I built myself from new steel.
The frame itself is wide open front to rear.  Can powerwash it out that way.
Coat the inside, etc.

HTH
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 11:06:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: BP daily: high ratio transfer case

kit, at $675 is BP's daily special.  Hope no one else has posted this   
today, thought I'd let the list know.  Sorry if this is a repeat.

Simon, in digest mode

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 12:42:58 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: PTO praise

not owned by Gannet are you Smokey?
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Smokey Briggs <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 4:58 PM
Subject: LRO: PTO praise

> You never know when a PTO winch is going to save the day.
>
> You take a lot of grief owning an unairconditioned vehicle that tops out
at
> 50 in West Texas. I publish the newspaper here in Pecos. This morning we
got
> a special shipment of paper in. Paper comes in 1,000 pound rolls, 27
inches
> wide. Our shipments are supposed to be shipped rolling, since we do not
have
> the equipment to move it when it is laid down flat. Well, this 24 roll
> shipment came on the flats. You just cannot pick one of these up and set
it
> on end, no matter how many people you have, and its not safe to try.
>
> Long story short, after much scratching, I finally remembered the Koenig
> winch on the front bumber of the rover. A little southern engineering and
> presto, one very capable roll-tipping machine. That winch saved a lot of
> money today.
>
> All the best from West Texas
> Smokey Briggs
>
>

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #385
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