Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #384

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 14:47:40 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Thursday, May 24 2001 Volume 01 : Number 384

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 21:28:51 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Rock Sliders

Bill Rice had some nice ones fab'd by a local metal fabricator.  I think Bill drew up some plans, took some measurements and let the guy go nuts. they are nice.

>>> [email-masked] 05/23/01 19:05 PM >>>
Is anyone making rock sliders for Series trucks?  I want to equip my 109 
ex-MOD with some under body / sill protection.  The truck is one of the 
former ambulances converted to a three door regular, so it won't be a typical 
application.  Or is my best bet going to be a local fabricator?

Thanks,

Bob Sharp
Tucson, AZ
The slumbering herd on the Rover Ranch:
52 Series I 80"
53 Series I 80"
60 Series II 88"
63 Series IIa 88"
71 Series IIa 109"
96 Discovery Series I 

"Why is it that every project you complete on a Land Rover results in 
knowledge and skills you hope you never need to use again?"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 21:35:04 -0400
From: "d.h.lowe" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Mad May Muddiness

Too busy packing !!!!!!! CFB Pickering relocates to CFB Bowmanville next
month.
Psst  want any car parts ....cheap.

The Eastons wrote:

> TARC's Mad May Muddiness takes place this weekend Sunday May 27,
> Starting fro 124 Central Avenue Grimsby. at 12 Noon. A tour of the
> unimproved roads on the Niagara escarpment. Plenty of rain the last
> couple of days so trails should be quite challenging. All are welcome.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 03:38:03 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Rock Sliders

Bob,
I have made some.  They are designed to replace the standard sills.  On the
88 the mount to the bulkhead outrigger and the outrigger with the tub
mounts.  How similar is your chassis to a standard 109 pickup?
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 22:30:41 -0400
From: "Alex Maiolo" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Rock Sliders

I was going to make mine, but then I found out that Al at DAP sells sliders
for $140 and I thought why bother...
His are galvanized (I think - mine haven't arrived yet) but they could be
painted black with the proper steps taken

Alex Maiolo
Chapel Hill NC
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: LRO: Rock Sliders

> Probably a local fabricator or even better, local LR owner with a welder
> as they are easy to make. I have made some, and may make a pair for
> Simon H, but it seems like tolerances vary widely as I had to go down to
> Colo Springs to modify a pair made for a guy down there. They fit fine
> on my rover, but were off by 3/4" on his.
>
> [email-masked] wrote:
> >
> > Is anyone making rock sliders for Series trucks?  I want to equip my 109
> > ex-MOD with some under body / sill protection.  The truck is one of the
> > former ambulances converted to a three door regular, so it won't be a
typical
> > application.  Or is my best bet going to be a local fabricator?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bob Sharp
> > Tucson, AZ
> > The slumbering herd on the Rover Ranch:
> > 52 Series I 80"
> > 53 Series I 80"
> > 60 Series II 88"
> > 63 Series IIa 88"
> > 71 Series IIa 109"
> > 96 Discovery Series I
> >
> > "Why is it that every project you complete on a Land Rover results in
> > knowledge and skills you hope you never need to use again?"
>
> --
> Jim Hall
> 1966 88" Elephant Chaser
> http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
> "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
> with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 11:06:22 -0400
From: "James G.Wolf" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Rock sliders

What do you use to make them out of? I thought they were a solid piece of
metal. Could you please expound on these, SWMBO is starting
to question the safety of side mounted ex-MOD fuel tanks and I have been
considering some sort of "crash bar" type of protection.
She started right after the latest on those GM trucks and their side
mounted tanks. Do these sliders fit behind the Birmabright sill piece?
I have been thinking about the round side mounted stuff J.C. Whitney and
Summit sell.
Jim Wolf

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 13:18:57 +1000
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Re:rock sliders

please note, before getting too excited, the rock sliders I'm about to talk
about were for light protection only - not for regularly sliding the landy over
massive rocks - more for scraping against a pank, log or tree when doing tight
bush work

Well anyway, I made some for a 109 by removing the lower sill (crushed anyway)
and replacing it with a piece of 2 inch aluminium scafold pipe (about one
quarter inch wall thickness), it has to be notched around the bottom of the
firewall pillar but worked fine.  I cut off the crumpled piece behind the back
wheel and cut a piece of the same pipe to length and then put a cut down the
length of the pipe with a jig saw.  The bottom of the cut panel was then
'pursuaded' into the cut and the pipe braced to the rear cross member at the
rear and the chasis (frame) at the front.

These lichweight 'rock sliders' took quite a bit of bumping without detrimental
effects other than needing a little more black paint - but I would never have
tried puttin a high-lift under them and jacking up the vehicle for instance.

Richard C

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 23:39:05 -0500
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: tranny removal

John Karlsson <[email-masked]> wrote:

>I've done it with a crane and the roof off, but I think it's a lot easier 
>to leave the roof on, use a rope slung around the transmission and a 2x6 , 
>and find a helper to handle one end of the board.

Whoa, dude, that's *way* too much weight to lift.  A good 2X4 works just
fine....
;-)

Gotta be a good, straight one, tho'....

Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is legendary-----*
  |                                                    |
  |              A. P. "Sandy" Grice                   |
  |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
  |  (757)423-4898  (757)622-7054  FAX (757)622-7056   |
  |                                                    |
  *----1972 Series III 88"----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 21:27:58 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Rock Sliders

Actually, mine were made by me (standing around saying "ahh" mostly) and
Lee Garret (whose name I may have just misspelled) when I was at Ft.
Leavenworth (not in jail, I might add).

We just measured the sills, bought some square profile 3/16" or 1/4" or
maybe even 1/8" wall tubing, had the metal place lop the ends off at an
angle, welded caps on the ends, and welded two pieces of angle iron to
each, through which we drilled holes for mounting 'em to the bulkhead
outrigger and the tub outrigger on my 109SW.  Only problem on a PU may be
the forward tank fouling the sliders, which one would with my sliders,
tho' I guess we could've positioned them further out and avoided that
problem altogether.

bill

On Wed, 23 May 2001 21:28:51 -0400 "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
writes:
> Bill Rice had some nice ones fab'd by a local metal fabricator.  I 
> think Bill drew up some plans, took some measurements and let the 
> guy go nuts. they are nice.
> 
> >>> [email-masked] 05/23/01 19:05 PM >>>
> Is anyone making rock sliders for Series trucks?  I want to equip my 
> 109 
> ex-MOD with some under body / sill protection.  The truck is one of 
> the 
> former ambulances converted to a three door regular, so it won't be 
> a typical 
> application.  Or is my best bet going to be a local fabricator?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bob Sharp
> Tucson, AZ
> The slumbering herd on the Rover Ranch:
> 52 Series I 80"
> 53 Series I 80"
> 60 Series II 88"
> 63 Series IIa 88"
> 71 Series IIa 109"
> 96 Discovery Series I 
> 
> "Why is it that every project you complete on a Land Rover results 
> in 
> knowledge and skills you hope you never need to use again?"
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 17:43:36 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Rock sliders

Guess what??  More people died in Ford trucks than died in Chevy trucks of 
the period.  Yes there were slightly more fires in the Chevy than Ford but 
if you wanted a better chance to stay alive in an accident, you should have 
been driving a Chevy, saddle tanks and all.  This is another one of those 
manufactured hysteria crises courtesy of your local ambulance chaser.

Yes it would be nice to have more protection for the tanks.  Will it 
guarantee your survival to your 100th anniversary, not likely.  Tell your 
wife to think rationally.  Living is dangerous, the only alternative is more 
so to longevity.

If the US falters as an economic power, the cause will be laid at the feet 
of the Product liability attorneys.

Aloha
Peter

>From: "James G.Wolf" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: [email-masked]
>Subject: LRO: RE: Rock sliders
>Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 11:06:22 -0400
>
>What do you use to make them out of? I thought they were a solid piece of
>metal. Could you please expound on these, SWMBO is starting
>to question the safety of side mounted ex-MOD fuel tanks and I have been
>considering some sort of "crash bar" type of protection.
>She started right after the latest on those GM trucks and their side
>mounted tanks. Do these sliders fit behind the Birmabright sill piece?
>I have been thinking about the round side mounted stuff J.C. Whitney and
>Summit sell.
>Jim Wolf
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 21:33:14 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: sliders

Oh yeah, total materials cost for my sliders was about $50.  We scrounged
the angle iron bits from their scrap bin, as well as the steel used for
capping the ends.  You pay for this by the lb. at most joints, so it ends
up being super cheap.  After the steel shop cut the ends of the tubing
(which they did for free when they cut the tubing for me, which they had
to do anyway), I can't imagine labor to have a pro. welder attach the
angle iron and cap the ends would go to more than $50 or so. 

bill

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 08:10:18 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: RE: Rock sliders

> What do you use to make them out of? I thought they were a solid piece of
> Do these sliders fit behind the Birmabright sill piece?

Aloha Jim.  I made mine from 2x3x3/16 tubing. I cut the ends to match the
shape of the stock sill, and then capped the ends closed.  I made mine to
totally replace the stock sills.  Because of the radius of the corners of
the tubing, they don't look like %100 like stock, but very close.  From the
side it's very hard to tell, only notice when looking at an angle.
The tubing is notched around the bulkhead outrigger.  It is then reinforced
with a piece of 2x2x1/4 angle welded in side the tub, and it is capped.  A
tab is welded here so that the front end is mounted to the bulkhead
outrigger bolt.  The rear has a bracket to mount to the outrigger at the
front of the tub.  My outrigger here is made from the same 3x5 tubing that I
made my frame from, so there it is plenty strong.  I dont remember what the
stock ones were like.

I have since removed the sills, I am going to trim thr leading edge of the
rear wheel well, so need to remove about 1-2 inches from the sills.  WHen I
do the wheel well I am also planning on making a short extension to the rear
bumper to protect the back end of the wheel well when coming down off of
ledges or logs.

Pete

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 12:40:43 +0200
From: "Bart Kuil" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: rotor

Is there difference between the rotor of a contactbreak ignition and a
electronic ignition (35DLM8) of a Range Rover?

Thanks,

Bart

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 06:50:08 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Transmission Removal

Dave sniggers:

- -and it sounds like your opinion on that is based merely on
speculation- is much easier, and safer.

It may be easier - but I will not say safer unless you have the top end
already stripped out as if you were replacing it from above. In is still a
major issue - changing angles and moving it to seat it is much easier when
it doesn't have a single point of support.

Maneuvering room under a vehicle on its wheels is simply too limited for my
tastes - and yes I have replaced automobile transmissions from below on
cars designed for it.

With the right gear either way is simple - and I don't mean a floor jack
for the bottom lift. That is tippy as Hell - and even Rover on their later
models specified a carrier to be bolted to the transmissions for removal
from below.

Were I to do it this way I'd insist on a specialized transmission jack -
ti's the safest and easiest way.

My own favorite way to remove a transmission is in pieces - pull the
transfer and gearbox separately if they're being serviced. It's not a lot
longer, and the pieces are then light enough to manhandle in and out of the
car by hand with little effort. Also, installing a gearbox this way is a
piece of cake - set it on the guide pins, slip it forward and seat it. No
fuss, no effort, no crane, and no back work.

What do you have against removing a seatbox? 15 minutes with the air
ratchet on any seatbox I've ever removed more than once and the thing's
right out. Pop the seat bases, undo the bolts and Bob's yer uncle.

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 06:56:24 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Tranny Problems

Todd, did you put the output gear back on too, or just leave the OD clutch
on the shaft?

The OD clutch won't get you too far...it doesn't mesh with the gears.

As far as reseating the OD, disconnect the HT lead and with the truck in
1st bump the starter while pushing on the OD WITH THE TRANSFER CASE IN
NEUTRAL - the shaft needs to align to the splines in the cup to lock down
the rest of the way.

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 07:39:43 -0400
From: "KURT W. KRAUSS" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Series Gas Mileage

I'd like to hear what others are experiencing as to gas mileage and
travel range on their Series vehicles.  I seem to be able to travel only
about 100 miles between fill ups on my 1973 SIII with a (incorrect)
Solex carb from the prior owner.  There are no gas leaks.  Some of you
may recall that this was the vehicle that was backfiring (popping)
during deceleration and I complained about smoking during start up.
Subsequently, valve seals were replaced, so no more smoking and timing
was set and a new set of plugs were installed.  In any event, it appears
that I'm only getting about 11-12 mpg and with a 10 gallon tank, I can
see why so many jerry cans and auxiliary tanks are sold.  I do burn
hi-test with a lead substitute.
Thanks for input.
Kurt W. Krauss
73 NAS SIII

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 07:39:19 -0400
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Mad May Muddiness

Need any assistance moving? Scavenging for useful parts being the incentive
of course. (TANSTAAFL)

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	d.h.lowe [SMTP:[email-masked]]
> Sent:	Wednesday, May 23, 2001 9:35 PM
> To:	[email-masked]
> Subject:	Re: LRO: Mad May Muddiness
> 
> Too busy packing !!!!!!! CFB Pickering relocates to CFB Bowmanville next
> month.
> Psst  want any car parts ....cheap.
> 
> The Eastons wrote:
> 
> > TARC's Mad May Muddiness takes place this weekend Sunday May 27,
> > Starting fro 124 Central Avenue Grimsby. at 12 Noon. A tour of the
> > unimproved roads on the Niagara escarpment. Plenty of rain the last
> > couple of days so trails should be quite challenging. All are welcome.
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 07:56:07 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Series Gas Mileage

Kurt, if you're only getting 11-2 MPG (highway?) then something is not
quite right.

Miss Jessica and I (58 88 S.II) regularly get 17-18 MPG on the highway at
55, or 65 if in OD. at 70ish the mileage and noise sucks....

Seriously, this would make me think that the carb is not jetted right or
something is still amiss in the timing (too far retarded?).

               ajr

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 05:54:53 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Series Gas Mileage

Around 20 with a webber 1 bbl.

KURT W. KRAUSS wrote:
> 
> I'd like to hear what others are experiencing as to gas mileage and
> travel range on their Series vehicles.  I seem to be able to travel only
> about 100 miles between fill ups on my 1973 SIII with a (incorrect)
> Solex carb from the prior owner.  There are no gas leaks.  Some of you
> may recall that this was the vehicle that was backfiring (popping)
> during deceleration and I complained about smoking during start up.
> Subsequently, valve seals were replaced, so no more smoking and timing
> was set and a new set of plugs were installed.  In any event, it appears
> that I'm only getting about 11-12 mpg and with a 10 gallon tank, I can
> see why so many jerry cans and auxiliary tanks are sold.  I do burn
> hi-test with a lead substitute.
> Thanks for input.
> Kurt W. Krauss
> 73 NAS SIII

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 08:09:57 -0400
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE:Nate's Note on DOT

See http://www.dot.gov/affairs/nhtsa2801.htm for Wednesday's DOT press
release

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 08:27:49 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Rock Sliders

Hmmm, Bill, my memory is fading, what was it you drew up plans for the guy at Cotton's to fabricate for you?  Was it that winch plate?

>>> [email-masked] 05/23/01 11:27PM >>>
Actually, mine were made by me (standing around saying "ahh" mostly) and
Lee Garret (whose name I may have just misspelled) when I was at Ft.
Leavenworth (not in jail, I might add).

We just measured the sills, bought some square profile 3/16" or 1/4" or
maybe even 1/8" wall tubing, had the metal place lop the ends off at an
angle, welded caps on the ends, and welded two pieces of angle iron to
each, through which we drilled holes for mounting 'em to the bulkhead
outrigger and the tub outrigger on my 109SW.  Only problem on a PU may be
the forward tank fouling the sliders, which one would with my sliders,
tho' I guess we could've positioned them further out and avoided that
problem altogether.

bill

On Wed, 23 May 2001 21:28:51 -0400 "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
writes:
> Bill Rice had some nice ones fab'd by a local metal fabricator.  I 
> think Bill drew up some plans, took some measurements and let the 
> guy go nuts. they are nice.
> 
> >>> [email-masked] 05/23/01 19:05 PM >>>
> Is anyone making rock sliders for Series trucks?  I want to equip my 
> 109 
> ex-MOD with some under body / sill protection.  The truck is one of 
> the 
> former ambulances converted to a three door regular, so it won't be 
> a typical 
> application.  Or is my best bet going to be a local fabricator?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bob Sharp
> Tucson, AZ
> The slumbering herd on the Rover Ranch:
> 52 Series I 80"
> 53 Series I 80"
> 60 Series II 88"
> 63 Series IIa 88"
> 71 Series IIa 109"
> 96 Discovery Series I 
> 
> "Why is it that every project you complete on a Land Rover results 
> in 
> knowledge and skills you hope you never need to use again?"
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 08:38:31 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE:Nate's Note on DOT

>See http://www.dot.gov/affairs/nhtsa2801.htm for Wednesday's DOT press
>release

DOT's nice.....tanks for the information.....8*)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 09:03:25 -0400
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: RE:Nate's Note on DOT

Fer sher, man 
(your turn next Mr  Cranfield)
> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [SMTP:[email-masked]]
> 
> DOT's nice.....tanks for the information.....8*)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 08:25:22 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Series Gas Mileage

On Thu, 24 May 2001, KURT W. KRAUSS wrote:

:I'd like to hear what others are experiencing as to gas mileage and
:travel range on their Series vehicles.  I seem to be able to travel only
:about 100 miles between fill ups on my 1973 SIII with a (incorrect)
:Solex carb from the prior owner.  There are no gas leaks.  Some of you
:may recall that this was the vehicle that was backfiring (popping)
:during deceleration and I complained about smoking during start up.
:Subsequently, valve seals were replaced, so no more smoking and timing
:was set and a new set of plugs were installed.  In any event, it appears
:that I'm only getting about 11-12 mpg and with a 10 gallon tank, I can
                                                  ^^^ 12, dammit.  10
imperial, 12 US.

You should get more than 12 MPG, though not a whole lot more, somewhere
around 15 MPG, depending on how heavy your right foot is.  I'd bet your carb
is jetted wrong.  You might get lucky and have something like a choke that's
not coming off all the way, which excessivly enrichen your mixture.

:see why so many jerry cans and auxiliary tanks are sold.  I do burn
:hi-test with a lead substitute.

Why hi-test?  The rover engine doesn't need it.  If you've an overwhelming
desire to waste money, send it to me.  I'll spend it on Rover parts.

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: 24 May 2001 06:42:35 -0700
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Series Gas Mileage

On Thu, 24 May 2001, "KURT W. KRAUSS" wrote:

>I'd like to hear what others are >experiencing as to gas mileage and
>travel range on their Series >vehicles.  

Kurt,

I run a weber on the 62 88, 235/85-16's, no OD.  I rebuilt the engine and carb last fall.  It's still a 7:1 head.
I also installed a Pertronix ignition module.

I was getting about 15 mpg before the rebuild, I now get a steady 17 mpg in mixed city/highway driving.  I generally do not exceed 55 mph.

Bryan
62 88
70 109 "Genie"

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 07:42:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Oil seal general question

I'm in the process of rebuilding a chain drive koenig winch and last   
night startedlooking at reinstalling seals and bearings.  I'll be picking   
up a chain, new sprockets today and all but the dog clutch shifter fork   
at the machinist's tomorrow.  The chain case contains a couple of oil   
seals, one for the dog clutch shifter shaft, and one for the input shaft   
from the crank.  These are simple cup shaped metal/rubber seals.  Where   
each of them fits, there appears to be enough room to double them up   
because they are thinner than the original seals, but it looks as if when   
I do this, there will be no space behind the seal.  The inner of the two   
oil seals will rest up against the case, inside the hole in which the   
seals seat.  Is it necessary to have a space behind the seals between the   
seal and the housing?  When I pulled the old seals, there was a space.   
 Is it a bad idea to double the seals up?  These seals are both at the   
lowest point of teh chain case, so they will be submerged at all times   
and so I'd like to have the "insurance"  of two seals if there is a   
benefit to doubling them up.  There is one more seal on the forward   
reverse shifter shaft, and I don't plan to double it up.

Simon (on digest mode)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 01 07:56:53 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Rock sliders

> SWMBO is starting
>to question the safety of side mounted ex-MOD fuel tanks 

Me too.  But as the driver I have a strict policy about accidents I do 
not want to get involved in one. Which is why I tend to be a conservative 
very defensive driver.

However I'm sure there is an idiot out there who would love to ram his 
vehicle into the side of my LR.  So I have been giving rock slider/ side 
impact protectors some thought.

Mounting points: bulkhead cross member, front fuel tank mount cross 
member, rear fuel tank mount cross member, cross member that mounts the 
front of the rear leaf spring.  These cross members provide substantial 
mounting points close together and most importantly on both sides of the 
fuel tank(s).

The slider would replace both the bottom skirt and the galvanized strip 
that the seat box and outside edge of the floor sits on.

I was thinking of having it stick out to the side at about one inch proud 
of the side panels.

For a side profile I was thinking of a modified skirt shape.  Starting at 
the front it curve down following the skirt curve but instead of going to 
a horizontal line at the bottom, have a slight angle towards the front 
bottom corner of the side fuel tank.  When it reaches a spot just in 
front of the fuel tank about a half inch lower than the fuel tank, have 
it go horizontal for the length of the fuel tank.  Once past the fuel 
tank  a slight angle back to the stock bottom skirt rear curve.

It has always bothered me that every series slider I have seen does not 
protect the fuel tank when sliding up on something.  It is almost like 
the fuel tank is there to protect that part of the rock slider.

You really do not loose ground clearance with my slider profile because 
you need to clear the fuel tank anyway.  But you do get gradual ramps for 
clearing the fuel tank when dragging a LR over an obstacle.  Otherwise 
you drag the side of the body over something and encounter the bottom 
edge of a fuel tank hanging out down below.

Anyway, for construction, I was thinking one of two things.  One would be 
to make it out of flat panels and weld the seams together like the LR 
frame.  The other would be to get suitable 'U' channel.  The back of the 
'U' would be the top of the slider.  The sides of the 'U' would hang down 
and be  trimmed along the bottom then a flat length of steel welded along 
the bottom to box it in.

One would need to make an accommodation of some kind for the bottom of 
the doors.  I'm not that far in my slider daydreaming process yet.  Could 
be all you will need to do is add a bottom rubber seal to the bottom of 
the door.  Or it could be you just leave the galvanized strip of steel in 
place.

TeriAnn         
                      http://www.overlander.net

  The world's most complete set of links connecting Rover 4X4 owners
  with Rover parts, service, accessory & sales companies world wide.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 01 08:17:40 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: parabolic springs? Fact or fad?

>I mentioned just that a work today... maybe some kind of *party*.  We'll 
>see but there probably won't be a huge need this fall.  Too close and too 
>much work.  I swear, once I get through this year, things will slow down.   
>
>Yep, 110 today in PHX.... am driving the Discovery today and still DIDN'T 
>use the air.  We're headed out to the Devil's Highway  (southern AZ close 
>to the Mexico border) this weekend where hopefully, it'll cool down to a 
>mere 103.

Zowie.  Your bringing this up because you know I consider 75 to be a very 
hot summer day where I live and I just about die from the heat on those 
few days per year when it hits 80.

That is why I mentined fall, say late fall as the earliest for a work on 
Dormie party.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 16:17:42 +0100
From: "Steve Mace" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Series Gas Mileage

I normally get about 15mpg but I have seen 20+ on a gentle highway cruse 
(50mph).

On 24 May 2001, at 7:39, KURT W. KRAUSS wrote:

> I'd like to hear what others are experiencing as to gas mileage and
> travel range on their Series vehicles.  I seem to be able to travel only
> about 100 miles between fill ups on my 1973 SIII with a (incorrect)
> Solex carb from the prior owner.  There are no gas leaks.  Some of you
> may recall that this was the vehicle that was backfiring (popping)
> during deceleration and I complained about smoking during start up.
> Subsequently, valve seals were replaced, so no more smoking and timing
> was set and a new set of plugs were installed.  In any event, it appears
> that I'm only getting about 11-12 mpg and with a 10 gallon tank, I can
> see why so many jerry cans and auxiliary tanks are sold.  I do burn
> hi-test with a lead substitute.

Steve

1972 SIII LtWt Green
1993 D90 Red
- -------------------------------------
Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: [email-masked]
www: http://www.solwise.co.uk
Tel: 0845 458 4558 (local rate)
Fax: 0845 458 4559
Intl. Fax. +44 1482 621877
- -------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 11:22:19 -0400
From: Lori Sickley <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Transmission Removal

With the roof on here....for those wanting a visual.
http://www.simplerthyme.com/pics/lift.html

Lori in PA
who now has reverse without holding the shifter with her foot : )
http://www.simplerthyme.com/store/LR.html

>>Bollocks yerself, Bobeck!
>>
>> > Without a crane, how do you get
>> >the trans out the door of the truck when you come out the top?
>>
>> >Dave
>>
>>Easily - done it more than once w/ a lousy Come-along and the roof off in
>>my garage...or under a tree...or under a swing set...or wherever.
>>
>>I do, however, have an engine crane now and tend not to perform such
>>silliness anymore.
>>
>>                ajr

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 01 08:34:08 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re:rock sliders

>please note, before getting too excited, the rock sliders I'm about to talk
>about were for light protection only - not for regularly sliding the landy 
>over massive rocks - more for scraping against a pank, log or tree 
>when doing tight bush work

I currently have aluminum diamond plate poprivited to my stock side 
skirts for just this kind of thing.  I have to do a little straightening 
or replace poprivets once and a while but it works very well for  sanding 
the bark on trees, reshaping banks and moving against the occasional 
rock.  the aluminum diamond plate has stayed remarkabley nice looking.  
Especially with all the action the off side gets.

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman/LR/GRpropanedoor98.htm

Shows part of the plating.

Take care,

TeriAnn         
                      http://www.overlander.net

  The world's most complete set of links connecting Rover 4X4 owners
  with Rover parts, service, accessory & sales companies world wide.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 01 08:49:24 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Series Gas Mileage

>I'd like to hear what others are experiencing as to gas mileage and
>travel range on their Series vehicles.

When I had a 2-1/4L petrol engine, I was getting 16sh MPH on the open 
highway (Sometime a little better with tail winds someimes a little worse 
with head winds)  that dropped down to around 12-13ish in stop and go 
driving.  I was running a Rochester.

Strangely enough I'm getting the same to maybe a tad better with the 302 
V8.  I've just added an Ashcroft high ratio transfer case.  My revs are 
lower on the highway and I have yet to figure milage with the new high 
ratio gearing.

>  I do burn hi-test with a lead substitute.

Why?  I always used and still use regular and no lead subsititute.  Your 
series III is only 8:1 compression.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 18:33:30 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Rock sliders

>  I'm not that far in my slider daydreaming process yet.  Could
> be all you will need to do is add a bottom rubber seal to the bottom of
> the door.  Or it could be you just leave the galvanized strip of steel in
> place.

I was able to trim my channel so that it still does it's job, but has lost
some strength.  It rests atop the slider, so this was not a problem.

I love the idea of having the the slider go down to the fuel tank.  I am
worried about rolling over a rock and having it miss the slider and frame
rail, but still hit the fuel tank, so I am working on a shield.  Would be
shaped like the one that is soldered to the fuel tank, but form from thicker
steel.  Would have about 1/4" gap between the bottom of the tank so it can
be cleaned out.  would mount using the same holes as the fuel tank.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 13:45:30 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: B'wana pole, was Transmission Removal

With the seat box out and everything out of the way (s2a doors bungied wide 
open, s3 doors, do the best you can) procure the following: a ten or twelve 
foot pole, even a 2x4, some cargo straps or old seat belt webbing, even rope 
(chains not needed), some friends and some incentives/rewards.
Loosen the trans/xfercase assembly; all bellhousing nuts off? Driveshafts 
disconnected? Rear tranny mounts? Speedo cable? Don't forget the parking 
brake, better yet, get it on out of the way as well. Taking the steering 
wheel off might help too.
Make a sling that will support the boxes just aft of the shifter rod cover.
Slide the pole through the top of the sling.
Leave most of the pole outside the vehicle, opposite the side you want the 
gearbox to come out of.
Get a couple of friends on either side of the pole and lift and separate from 
the engine. You supervise from inside the truck if you like. A jack under the 
engine to tilt it up in the rear might help, even have a piece of wood around 
to stick between the bellhousing and the crossmember after it's out.
Pass the whole affair out the other side of the vehicle, reassigning crew as 
needed.
Set assembly down, pass out the incentives (beer works for my crew) and Bob's 
yer uncle. Didn't even have to take off the top.
Cheers!
John Dillingham
Vintage Rover Service
Canton, Georgia
85 Range Rover Vogue 5speed
68 SWB series IIa 
72 SWB series III

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 13:55:56 -0400
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: RE: Rock sliders

Teri-Ann's post started me thinking (Lord save us). If the rock slider was
equipped with a series of rollers set inside the U channel and a belt was
fitted around said rollers then instead of sliding one could roll gracefully
across the rocks. The next iteration being to apply power to the rollers and
make it into a mini tank track. One of those supermarket roller conveyors
could provide all the parts needed for the basic version.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 14:01:19 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: B'wana pole, was Transmission Removal

{Great description deleted}

And here folks we have the Good Ol' Boy's method of transmission
removal....<grin>

Couldn't have said it better myself - and if I had the room in my garage to
swing things that long would do it that way.

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 14:15:15 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: B'wana pole, was Transmission Removal

In a message dated 05/24/2001 11:04:34, [email-masked] writes:

>room in my garage to
>swing things that long would do it that way.
Garage? What garage? We don't need no steenkin' garage! Seriously, this is 
best done outside. There, how's that for a caveat. Last thing I need is 
someone posting how they used this method and put out a window.
Cheers!
John Dillingham
I think I'll go out to the shop now and see about setting up the new 
liftmaster 5000
Vintage Rover Service
Canton, Georgia
85 Range Rover Vogue 5speed
68 SWB series IIa 
72 SWB series III

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 14:22:53 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: RE: Rock sliders

Re: Roller Sliders:

I would worry about the rollers' weight loading in a situation like that -
seems to me that essentially the roller could be handling a significant
percentage of the weight of the vehickle in a pointy-rock situation.

Errrrr...might that not be a bit heavy?

                    aj"Pessimists R' Us"r

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 14:32:38 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: B'wana pole, was Transmission Removal

John weasels with:

Last thing I need is
someone posting how they used this method and put out a window.
Cheers!

Actually, that puts me to mind of a woodworking shop i once saw in "Fine
Woodworking". This shop was essentially a one-car-garage sized shed - and a
tight one at that. Where the resawing bandsaw was the owner had built two
swing-down doors into the walls - this way, he could swing the doors down
(which had rollers on them) and pass timbers of any length through the saw
by running them in and out through the hatches!

Talk about space efficient!

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 01 10:54:25 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Rock sliders

> I am
>worried about rolling over a rock and having it miss the slider and frame
>rail, but still hit the fuel tank, so I am working on a shield.  Would be
>shaped like the one that is soldered to the fuel tank, but form from thicker
>steel.  Would have about 1/4" gap between the bottom of the tank so it can
>be cleaned out.  would mount using the same holes as the fuel tank.

But you would still have either a right angle for something you are 
sliding over to encounter or a sharp ramp.  All something like this means 
is that you could hit something harder without damage.  A long ramp would 
gradually lift the tank over the obstical  without needing to stop and 
jack the fuel tank over.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #384
**********************************************