Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #380

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 21:38:28 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *  Friday, May 18 2001  Volume 01 : Number 380

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 19:05:59 -0800
From: "Bruce D. Fowler" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: Re: Re: whats a broken koenig worth

I was told to use an aluminium key on the input shaft.
The Bumblemobile's (my ser.ll) koenig has a steel key in it when
I bought it.
The ser.ll also had a broken crank and front pully :-(
Over the past eight years i've managed to shear off two keys, much
cheeper then replacing a crank.

Bruce F.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Hope Peter

:Bruce, thanks for the parts numbers.
:Uhm, I don't understand the PS.  I guess you mean the steel key that goes
on
:the input shaft?  If I don't use this, then what prevents the thing from
:slipping?  Get a brass/bronze one made up.
:Pete
:

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 18:08:34 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Rattly V8

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 15:04:16 -0400
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Re: Rattly V8

>I always add a litre of ATF a couple of days before my oil change too. The
impression is just subjective, but it seems the new oil stays clean longer
when I've done this.

To add to the ATF thing, you might want to think about your engine a bit 
before rushing out and trying this.  If your engine is new(ish) or clean because 
you've been religiously changing the oil and filter every 3K or so miles since it 
was new or rebuilt, the ATF process could work fine for you to unstick a reluctant 
lifter.  But if your engine has lots of miles on it and you suspect or know that there 
is a lot of varnish/crud buildup in it, you may not want to add ATF to the oil.  The 
potential is that the ATF could loosen so much junk that it ends up floating 
around and plugging up something important, like an oil passage.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
Producer/Director, Boeing Video Services
telephone (425)393-7721
mobile (206)650-5622
fax: (425)393-7741
e-mail: [email-masked]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 21:46:23 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Solex Question

Paul,

There should be a gasket where you didn't have one.  the gasket is in fact the one that 95% lines up.  I asked the question earlier today and haven't gotten a response.  Anyone?

Ron Ward

>>> [email-masked] 05/16/01 18:18 PM >>>
Unexpectedly got the afternoon off today and all of the Solex talk going
around inspired me to tackle my whistling Solex.

I think that I've found the air leak between the Starter body (part # 22 in
the green manual) and the Throttle chamber (part # 2).  Is there supposed to
be a gasket between these two bits?  There was no gasket there when I got
the vehicle.  I have two Solex overhaul kits and both have a gasket that
*almost* fits...  the screw holes are 95% lined up but there seems to be an
excess of other holes in the gasket.  I know that there is an optional
heater element that fits in here and I thought it possible that this gasket
would be used for the element assembly (part #23).

Can anybody help out??

Thanks,

Paul Quin
1961 SII 88
Victoria, BC

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 07:03:27 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: whats a broken koenig worth

> I was told to use an aluminium key on the input shaft.
> The Bumblemobile's (my ser.ll) koenig has a steel key in it when
> I bought it.
> The ser.ll also had a broken crank and front pully :-(
> Over the past eight years i've managed to shear off two keys, much
> cheeper then replacing a crank.
>
> Bruce F.

Any problm locating the keys, or do you just make em your self?
We have a great hardware place, know they have steel keys, will look to see
what else they have.
Thanks again for all the help
Pete
ps.  Ya got a spare koenig lying around by any chance?
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 07:12:12 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Pink Panther For Sale

> Taking the day off of work today to make some progress on the 109.  As the
> days are getting longer and the temps are more comfortable I am playing
> hookie from the office more and more. I oughta fire myself so I can play
> with the landy full time, but then that creates other problems.
>
> Rich
> '60 SII 109SW
>

Wow, so Rich are you hireing?  I could use a job like that :-)

I am probably going to have to burn vacation time to get the last few things
wrapped up before the move.
Pulled the rollcage and tub off tonight, built some new shock mounts,
plumbed a breather for the rear axle.  Started working on the new exhaust.
Hopefully get the head finished this weekend.

Pete

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 07:16:53 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: RE: RE: Pink Panther For Sale

ooooh, I must have
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 22:46:14 -0700
From: "Paul Quin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Solex Question

Thanks Ron, but no, I figured out that the gasket in question goes in
between the accelerator pump and the carb body.  The bolt patterns are
almost identical...

I don't think that there is a gasket between the starter body and carb body.
There is none shown in the manual, while all the other gaskets are there.

Paul.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>

> Paul,
>
> There should be a gasket where you didn't have one.  the gasket is in fact
the one that 95% lines up.  I asked the question earlier today and haven't
gotten a response.  Anyone?
> Ron Ward

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 13:37:25 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Range Rover Lite

Autocar magazine reports that LR are due to launch a 5th model line to
compete with BMW's X5 in early 2006. The baby Rangie is code-named L320.
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 08:08:05 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Range Rover Lite

Oh, Christ - a rebadged Ford Exploder?

          Great - ajr

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 08:30:27 -0400
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Todays Toyota News - no LR content

"Toyota Canada is supplying the Royal Canadian Mounted Police with a new
gasoline/electric hybrid Prius sedan that, for the next two years, joins the
RCMP fleet which patrols the Parliament Hill area. " Pr Newswire.

Due to its area policing function it will be the AP edition to be known as
the PriAPus

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 05:53:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: DaveB <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: First question (followup to "I did it")k

- --- David Scheidt <[email-masked]> wrote:
> Replace the points, condensor, rotor, cap, wires, and spark plugs. 
> Then set
> your timing by the book, before going and spending money.
> :

Right, and before you do that, try pulling the choke out. Once the
engine warms up the weber will accelerate better. If it doesn't, then
try the above. Well, you *could* do all that as a matter of course.

=====
They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are quite a bit dicier.

David Foster Wallace

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 05:54:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: DaveB <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Todays Toyota News - no LR content

- --- Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]> wrote:
> joins the
> RCMP fleet which patrols the Parliament Hill area. " Pr Newswire.

which reminds me, anyone know how to get hold of Brave Sir Robin?

=====
They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are quite a bit dicier.

David Foster Wallace

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 12:54:44 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Range Rover Lite

I know that LR are going to launch a new Range Rover coming in at about 
$250k CDN. The currrent model Range Rover will be run in parallel with the 
new one as Rover knows they can only sell so many super expensive ones.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 06:00:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: DaveB <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: A clutch replacement tip

- --- Keith Tanner <[email-masked]> wrote:
that doesn't
> quite 
> seem right unless I put the flames coming up from under the hood, as
> if the 
> engine's on fire...

I can offer you some tips on creating this effect. V.realistic too.
Contact me off-list :)

> The original paint has so much character I think I'm going to match
> any new 
> parts to the "faded Poppy Red" (aka Rustoleum Primer) colour.

Sounds like someone tried that already. My faded poppy red parts don't
look anything like rustoleum primer. But rustoleum regal red looks alot
like new poppy red and is guaranteed to fade after 3 months of florida
sun. results may vary in cooler climes.

> Keith

=====
They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are quite a bit dicier.

David Foster Wallace

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: 17 May 2001 06:25:08 -0700
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Advice from UK , Norsk listers (and any travellers)

My family is about to leave for Norway for the summer and I will join them for about a month later on.  While I'm there, we will be taking a few car trips and will need a large vehicle.  Well, after a long search, the best I can do in Norway via a rental agency is a Mercedes van that is $4,000 for the month.  Accordingly, I am looking for alternatives.

I am curious what the practical barriers would be to purchasing a late series III 109 or early 110 station wagon in the UK (going to stop there on the way anyhow), using it for a month or so, then returning it to the UK for an agent to sell.  If I were able to purchase a very nice example, how much should I expect in depreciation over the course of a month or two?

And, finally, is it likely there are issues in bringing a car into Norway for short term use?  

I appreciate the help as my Norwegian relatives and friends aren't "car people".  

Bryan
62 88
70 109 "Genie"

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 09:36:15 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Todays Toyota News - no LR content

which reminds me, anyone know how to get hold of Brave Sir Robin?

Why - want to borrow his Ferret and have at Parliament Hill again? The
electric cars oughta be easy targets....

Get Dixon to load for you....you can get 'em all!

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 14:56:39 +0100
From: Ian Stuart <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Advice from UK , Norsk listers (and any travellers)

On Thursday 17 May 2001 14:25, you wrote:
> I am curious what the practical barriers would be to purchasing a
> late series III 109 or early 110 station wagon in the UK (going to
> stop there on the way anyhow), using it for a month or so, then
> returning it to the UK for an agent to sell.  If I were able to
> purchase a very nice example, how much should I expect in
> depreciation over the course of a month or two?
OK.. a good-condition late SIII/early 110 will cost about 5K GBP (+/-) 
for a 2.25 petrol or gutless diesel. More oomph costs more dosh, less 
quality lowers the price.

Look at :
http://www.landroverenthusiastclassifieds.com/

for an idea of what's around in the UK

If you can travel, you'll get what you want quite quickly. 
Note: for a private sale, pay cash, or wait for the check to clear in 
the sellers bank account

- -- 
           --==**==--
Ian Stuart - EDINA, DataLibrary, University computing services.
- ---------------------------------
A man depriving some village, somewhere, of a first-class
idiot.
- ---------------------------------
http://lucas.ucs.ed.ac.uk/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 09:04:32 -0600
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: First question (followup to "I did it")

Dick,
    I take exception to changing its name to Banshee.  I protest, for I
already own a 1966 SW SWB LR named Banshee.  She aquired the monacre after
the rear end blew up.  I drove it around for a couple of days since it still
moved just fine.  And you all thought a LR was loud on the road in stock
form!  Surely 48" Swamper tires wouldn't even be this loud.  :-)
    Maybe she no longer cares for the title since I have long replaced the
diff?

Kirk

------------------------------

Date: 17 May 2001 08:58:24 -0700
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Advice from UK , Norsk listers (and any travellers)

On Thu, 17 May 2001, Ian Stuart wrote:

> Look at :
> >http://www.landroverenthusiastclassifie>ds.com/

Which would be easier to sell at the end of the trip, an early 110 sw in the 7000 GBP range, or a late model 110 csw 15000 GBP range?

Bryan
62 88
70 109 "Genie"

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 14:05:21 -0400
From: "David Murrell" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: FW: Santana Part?

I think I am the new owner of a Santana overdrive for my Series truck.  The
catch is I don't think the unit has a "clutch sleeve" (?) or rather the new
gear for the back of the transmission.  Anyone out there got an idea on
where to locate such a beast?

Thanks,
Dave

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 22:18:40 +0200
From: "Ivan i Jelena Lukic" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Gasket between clutch and brake reservoir

What is the material of gasket which stands between clutch and brake fluid
reservoirs in s2 LR? I had to dissasemble reservoir because it needed
cleaning. Between these two reservoirs I found thin rubber like material.
What material can replace it, that won't be dissolved by brake&clutch
fluid? Leather, tube rubber, or something else?

Regards, Ivan.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 16:45:13 -0400
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Uh oh, Land Rover has some competition next year....

of course it's a bit pricy.

http://www.mbusa.com/brand/container.jsp?/models/future/future/main.jsp&mode
lCode=G500

The G Class debuts in the states.

Matt

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 16:38:56 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Uh oh, Land Rover has some competition next year....

On Thu, 17 May 2001, Matt Peckham wrote:

:of course it's a bit pricy.

No.  It's fucking expensive.  72K for a G-Wagon?  It doesn't even come with
4-channel ABS.  Or a trailer hitch. or an oil pressure gauge.  Sheesh.

David
- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 19:04:29 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Re: Trials

HI All,

R.O.V.E.R.S.
is going to host it's first full scale trials event and will be open to the=20
Rover community.  This a snip from a mailer going out to members.
Where: Robesonia, PA (1 hour N.W. from Philadelphia).=20
Location:   101 East Mountain Road, Robesonia, PA.   19551
(Kindly hosted by Dave McMullan).
( camping available, nearby hotels- Reading, PA.)
When: Saturday 16th June 8.00am-5.00pm (rain, shine, sleet or snow)=20

Event Schedule:

8.00am - 8.30am Registration. =20
(Advanced registration will be required). Due by =E2=80=A6?June 2001
    (Registration Form attached).
Upon arrival, follow signs directly to "Event Registration".

Drivers:
Drivers will be assembled into groups of approx. 8 vehicles per group=20
depending on the number of entries.
The event will have the following vehicle classes:

Class A: "LEAF SPRING" (Series 1/II/IIa/III)
Class B: "COIL SPRING" (Discovery/ Range Rover/ Defender)

All Drivers must be members of R.O.V.E.R.S. (Non-member drivers pay club=20
membership fee).

Spectators and children welcome. (No pets please).

8.30am-8.45am Scrutineering.
Basic safety checks, (steering, brakes no leaking fluids etc.).  Ensure=20
any/all loose items are either removed or stowed in the rear of the vehicle.
(If your vehicle has passed State Inspection you should be fine, but please=20
be aware that your vehicle will experience "lumps & bumps" not normally foun=
d=20
on the road)
If you have a fire extinguisher, first aid kit and recovery gear please brin=
g=20
them and show them to the Group Marshall.
Group Marshall must sign Driver's Score Sheet before assembling into groups.=
=20

8.45am-9.00am Driver/Marshall Meeting.=20
Explanation of Trial section format, scoring, Marshall's responsibility etc.

Driver Responsibility:
Drivers should enter the event with a good/friendly spirit=E2=80=A6..and kee=
p it.
Marshall's word is FINAL.
Drivers should not feel committed to run a section if the driver suspects th=
e=20
vehicle will be damaged, (you're here to have fun, not to burn a whole in=20
your check book).
However, if a section is "missed" the Driver will be awarded maximum section=
=20
points.=20
Driver is responsible to ensure that their Score-Sheet is scored by the=20
Marshall at each section and handed to the Group Marshall at the end of the=20
day.
Drivers will be expected to help Marshall on sections if we do not get=20
volunteers.
(Whilst waiting your turn please take lots of photos/video, your fellow=20
competitors would appreciate it).

Group Marshall Responsibility:

A Group Marshall will travel with each group. The Group Marshall is=20
responsible to assemble his/her group. The Group Marshall has overall=20
responsibility for sections being attempted.
Section "entry & exit" to be kept clear. One vehicle to be on the section at=
=20
any time.=20
In the event that a vehicle gets stuck the Group Marshall is to ensure that=20
there is no excessive wheel spin. Group Marshall oversees a quick vehicle=20
recovery and replaces section canes if necessary.
Group Marshall is the ONLY person authorized to mark Score-Sheets.
Group Marshall should ensure that spectators are in safe locations,=20
especially during vehicle recovery.=20

9.00am-12.00pm Trial Sections.
Sections have been designed where you must maneuver your vehicle through a=20
series of canes without touching them, or stopping. (LWB vehicles are allowe=
d=20
one reversing maneuver per section).
The Driver(s) with the least amount of points (in their class) at the end of=
=20
the day wins.
Sections have been designed to be challenging & non-damaging. Wherever,=20
possible sections have been "wheeled/driven" with a variety of vehicles.=20
However, depending on your individual driving skills, vehicle damage cannot=20
be ruled out.

12.00pm-1.00pm Lunch.
Bring your own picnic, or venture into Robesonia, (1/2 mile).  (Bring chairs=
,=20
picnic blankets, tables etc.).

1.00pm-4.00pm Trial Sections.

Rejoin vehicle groups.

4.00pm-4.30pm Check & Clean Vehicles.
Check your vehicle to ensure it is safe for road use, remove excessive mud=20
before going on public road.

4.30pm-5.00pm Results.
    Results and Prizing-Giving

5.00pm-7.00pm Dinner.
Group dinner at nearby restaurant. (Optional).=20

SAFE TRIP HOME

Any Questions, reply to Steve Hoare at [email-masked] or [email-masked]=
m

Tom Bache

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 19:25:52 -0800
From: "Bruce D. Fowler" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: whats a broken koenig worth

- -----Original Message-----
From: Hope Peter 

:
:Any problm locating the keys, or do you just make em your self?

Made up ten or twelve of them  out of square stock and they live 
in a dip tin under the middle seat of Timshel, or lets say I hope they are
there.... Havn't needed one since the first Moose Trophy.

:Ya got a spare koenig lying around by any chance?
Nope.... Would like another one myself....
Pigsty is winchless at the moment

Bruce F.
We were put on this earth to affirm that clothes do not make the man
and cleanliness is not next to godliness. We cheerfully acknowl-
edge that there is a proper place for suits and ties, but no one
has yet dug a hole big enough to bury them all.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 20:52:33 -0700
From: "Rich & Lori Williams" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Tropical Roof Question

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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A day and a half of solid progress got most of the body disassembled and =
a huge pile of parts cleaned, stripped, primed, and in some cases even =
painted.  I even managed to get the top off of the old beast after =
several struggles with nuts that have been nicely corroding over the =
last 41 years (thanks for the help dad). =20

Anyway, my question is related to painting the tropical roof.  Those of =
you who have done this, what's the best way to go about things here.  =
Upon a brief inspection it appears that all the rivets must be drilled =
out in order to remove the sun shield from the main roof.  Is this =
really the case or is there something else that I am missing?  Okay - =
don't answer that.  A P.O. had the great wisdom of painting the entire =
sun shield with a heavy coat of a substance that looks like what is used =
to paint the tops of RV's.  Kind of textured and thick.  So I want to =
strip this whole thing down and respray with the original =
white/ivory/limestone/whatever but wanted to ask before I set out to =
take the sun shield off.

TIA

Rich
'60 SII 109SW

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>A day and a half of solid progress got =
most of the=20
body disassembled and a huge pile of parts cleaned, stripped, primed, =
and in=20
some cases even painted.&nbsp; I even&nbsp;managed to get the top off of =
the old=20
beast after several struggles with nuts that have been nicely corroding =
over the=20
last 41 years (thanks for the help dad).&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Anyway, my question is related to =
painting the=20
tropical roof.&nbsp; Those of you who have done this, what's the best =
way to go=20
about things here.&nbsp; Upon a brief inspection it appears that all the =
rivets=20
must be drilled out in order to remove the sun shield from the main =
roof.&nbsp;=20
Is this really the case or is there something else that I am =
missing?&nbsp; Okay=20
- - don't answer that.&nbsp; A P.O. had the great wisdom of painting the=20
entire&nbsp;sun shield with a heavy coat of a substance that looks like =
what is=20
used to paint the tops of RV's.&nbsp; Kind of textured and thick.&nbsp; =
So I=20
want to strip this whole thing down and respray with the original=20
white/ivory/limestone/whatever but wanted to ask before I set out to =
take the=20
sun shield off.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>TIA</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Rich</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>'60 SII =
109SW</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_014E_01C0DF13.4BA43800--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 23:42:33 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: sighting

Anyone on the list drive the ex-mil 109 that was on Broadway and Mineral
at around 11:20 on Wed?

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 07:40:34 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 

Bruce, 
thanks again for all the info.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 08:46:07 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: sighting

In what town?
John and Muddy

Jim Hall wrote:
> 
> Anyone on the list drive the ex-mil 109 that was on Broadway and Mineral
> at around 11:20 on Wed?
> 
> --
> Jim Hall
> 1966 88" Elephant Chaser
> http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
> "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
> with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 07:08:53 -0700
From: "Paul Quin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: No more leaks and no more power :-(

Over that past couple of weekends I've hauled out my engine and replaced the
rear main oil seal and manifold to head gasket.  The rear main seal
replacement work like a charm as there is *almost* no oil drops under the
Rover, even after a long highway run.  A month ago there would have been
half a litre!

The manifold gasket has made a difference too as the old one was really shot
and there was a chug chug of smelly exhaust fumes wafting back into the
drivers face before I replaced it.

I think that the manifold vacuum has improved as well as there is now a
definite sound of rushing air from the base of the carb.  In fact when
things warm up there is a definite whistle ala a tea kettle!  I've had the
carb off (a Solex) and checked the base packing block and gaskets which are
new and look fine.  The whistle *seems* to be coming from the base of the
cold start circuit.

Before the gasket replacement, the Rover wouldn't idle worth sh*t but had
lots of power (well... relatively...) now it idles like a charm but has NO
power at all on the road.  If I push the gas pedal to aggressively, it bogs
down and stalls.  When warm I have to run with the choke cable almost all
the way out and there is no power at all for hills...

Sounds to me like either a lack of fuel in the mixture due to something
plugged in the carb , or a big vacuum leak but usually vacuum leaks cause
poor idling while this one idles like a sleeping baby...

Thoughts?   I'm going to start at the fuel filter and work back to the carb
and tear into it as I have a re-build kit on hand (actually two thanks to
Craddock's...)

Maybe time to pick up a vacuum gauge from C-Tyre...

Paul Quin
1961 SII 88
Victoria, BC

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 11:45:05 -0400
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: bum tranny

Hello list,

through my trials and tribulations (4000 km road trip), I have managed to
break the tranny output shaft on my transmission.

I am now looking for a transmission output shaft... Here's the catch. I have
a ford tranny. I only need a certain part of the rover tranny output
shaft,that will be grafted to the ford tranny. I am looking for the bit that
fits into the transfer case, from about 1/2" past the splines, to the end.

If anyone in the Ottawa area has a toasted (I do mean dead) transmission, or
has one of these shafts loose, I want it! Remember, the end that is splined
for the tranny does not have to be good. I just need the T case end, the
rest will be made into razor blades. Broken, beat or bashed shafts welcome,
as long as the T case end is good...

thanks,

Jean-Leon Morin
AKA "Dr. Detroit"

Valdez - 1966 IIA 109 freak
Slagmobile - 195? II parts bin

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 08:46:32 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Tropical Roof Question

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You have to drill out the pop rivets and undo the little bolts along the
sides.  You will need two people as the other side will always turn.
You will find some amaxinglu good and easy to strip original paint under
there.  I have just done this.  Good luck.
Kind regards,
Mark Pilkington.

Rich & Lori Williams wrote:

> A day and a half of solid progress got most of the body disassembled
> and a huge pile of parts cleaned, stripped, primed, and in some cases
> even painted.  I even managed to get the top off of the old beast
> after several struggles with nuts that have been nicely corroding over
> the last 41 years (thanks for the help dad). Anyway, my question is
> related to painting the tropical roof.  Those of you who have done
> this, what's the best way to go about things here.  Upon a brief
> inspection it appears that all the rivets must be drilled out in order
> to remove the sun shield from the main roof.  Is this really the case
> or is there something else that I am missing?  Okay - don't answer
> that.  A P.O. had the great wisdom of painting the entire sun shield
> with a heavy coat of a substance that looks like what is used to paint
> the tops of RV's.  Kind of textured and thick.  So I want to strip
> this whole thing down and respray with the original
> white/ivory/limestone/whatever but wanted to ask before I set out to
> take the sun shield off. TIA Rich'60 SII 109SW

- --------------2DEE8CB4BDFEEE66182AAD36
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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
<body bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
You have to drill out the pop rivets and undo the little bolts along the
sides.&nbsp; You will need two people as the other side will always turn.&nbsp;
You will find some amaxinglu good and easy to strip original paint under
there.&nbsp; I have just done this.&nbsp; Good luck.
<br>Kind regards,
<br>Mark Pilkington.
<p>Rich &amp; Lori Williams wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><style></style>
<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>A
day and a half of solid progress got most of the body disassembled and
a huge pile of parts cleaned, stripped, primed, and in some cases even
painted.&nbsp; I even managed to get the top off of the old beast after
several struggles with nuts that have been nicely corroding over the last
41 years (thanks for the help dad).</font></font>&nbsp;<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Anyway,
my question is related to painting the tropical roof.&nbsp; Those of you
who have done this, what's the best way to go about things here.&nbsp;
Upon a brief inspection it appears that all the rivets must be drilled
out in order to remove the sun shield from the main roof.&nbsp; Is this
really the case or is there something else that I am missing?&nbsp; Okay
- - don't answer that.&nbsp; A P.O. had the great wisdom of painting the
entire sun shield with a heavy coat of a substance that looks like what
is used to paint the tops of RV's.&nbsp; Kind of textured and thick.&nbsp;
So I want to strip this whole thing down and respray with the original
white/ivory/limestone/whatever but wanted to ask before I set out to take
the sun shield off.</font></font>&nbsp;<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>TIA</font></font>&nbsp;<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Rich</font></font><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>'60
SII 109SW</font></font></blockquote>

</body>
</html>

- --------------2DEE8CB4BDFEEE66182AAD36--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 12:19:51 -0400
From: asfco <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Tropical Roof Question

- --------------7FF372E554C0A2CD0E88E120
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Rich & Lori Williams wrote:

> A day and a half of solid progress got most of the body disassembled
> and a huge pile of parts cleaned, stripped, primed, and in some cases
> even painted.  I even managed to get the top off of the old beast
> after several struggles with nuts that have been nicely corroding over
> the last 41 years (thanks for the help dad). Anyway, my question is
> related to painting the tropical roof.  Those of you who have done
> this, what's the best way to go about things here.  Upon a brief
> inspection it appears that all the rivets must be drilled out in order
> to remove the sun shield from the main roof.  Is this really the case
> or is there something else that I am missing?  Okay - don't answer
> that.  A P.O. had the great wisdom of painting the entire sun shield
> with a heavy coat of a substance that looks like what is used to paint
> the tops of RV's.  Kind of textured and thick.  So I want to strip
> this whole thing down and respray with the original
> white/ivory/limestone/whatever but wanted to ask before I set out to
> take the sun shield off. TIA Rich'60 SII 109SW

I was planning to do the same thing but someone told me that If you
drill out the rivets on the tropical roof sun sheet you will have to
remove the bits that fall inside the channels..only way to do that would
be to cut holes in the end of the channels on top near  the rear door.
you would then have to have these holes filled /re welded somehow
  I th9nk you would be better off to clean the goop of the top leaving
the sunsheet intact..spot sand/prime with etch primer and then shoot the
paint under the sunsheet and don't worry about it...
thats what I did and the results were great
Rgds
Steve Bradke '68 lla

- --------------7FF372E554C0A2CD0E88E120
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
<body bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
Rich &amp; Lori Williams wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><style></style>
<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>A
day and a half of solid progress got most of the body disassembled and
a huge pile of parts cleaned, stripped, primed, and in some cases even
painted.&nbsp; I even managed to get the top off of the old beast after
several struggles with nuts that have been nicely corroding over the last
41 years (thanks for the help dad).</font></font>&nbsp;<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Anyway,
my question is related to painting the tropical roof.&nbsp; Those of you
who have done this, what's the best way to go about things here.&nbsp;
Upon a brief inspection it appears that all the rivets must be drilled
out in order to remove the sun shield from the main roof.&nbsp; Is this
really the case or is there something else that I am missing?&nbsp; Okay
- - don't answer that.&nbsp; A P.O. had the great wisdom of painting the
entire sun shield with a heavy coat of a substance that looks like what
is used to paint the tops of RV's.&nbsp; Kind of textured and thick.&nbsp;
So I want to strip this whole thing down and respray with the original
white/ivory/limestone/whatever but wanted to ask before I set out to take
the sun shield off.</font></font>&nbsp;<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>TIA</font></font>&nbsp;<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Rich</font></font><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>'60
SII 109SW</font></font></blockquote>
I was planning to do the same thing but someone told me that If you drill
out the rivets on the tropical roof sun sheet you will have to remove the
bits that fall inside the channels..only way to do that would be to cut
holes in the end of the channels on top near&nbsp; the rear door. you would
then have to have these holes filled /re welded somehow
<br>&nbsp; I th9nk you would be better off to clean the goop of the top
leaving the sunsheet intact..spot sand/prime with etch primer and then
shoot the paint under the sunsheet and don't worry about it...
<br>thats what I did and the results were great
<br>Rgds
<br>Steve Bradke '68 lla
</body>
</html>

- --------------7FF372E554C0A2CD0E88E120--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 12:28:37 -0400
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: British Car Humor

http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/comics.html

------------------------------

Date: 18 May 2001 09:41:07 -0700
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: bum tranny

J-L,

Let me know if you don't have any luck locally.  I have one I can send out.

Bryan
62 88
70 109 "Genie"

On Fri, 18 May 2001, "Jean-Leon Morin" wrote:

> 
> Hello list,
> 
> through my trials and tribulations (4000 km road trip), I have managed to
> break the tranny output shaft on my transmission.
> 
> I am now looking for a transmission output shaft... Here's the catch. I have
> a ford tranny. I only need a certain part of the rover tranny output
> shaft,that will be grafted to the ford tranny. I am looking for the bit that
> fits into the transfer case, from about 1/2" past the splines, to the end.
> 
> If anyone in the Ottawa area has a toasted (I do mean dead) transmission, or
> has one of these shafts loose, I want it! Remember, the end that is splined
> for the tranny does not have to be good. I just need the T case end, the
> rest will be made into razor blades. Broken, beat or bashed shafts welcome,
> as long as the T case end is good...
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Jean-Leon Morin
> AKA "Dr. Detroit"
> 
> Valdez - 1966 IIA 109 freak
> Slagmobile - 195? II parts bin

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 17:32:36 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: sighting

Oops, in Littleton, CO.

John Cranfield wrote:
> 
> In what town?
> John and Muddy
> 
> Jim Hall wrote:
> >
> > Anyone on the list drive the ex-mil 109 that was on Broadway and Mineral
> > at around 11:20 on Wed?
> >
> > --
> > Jim Hall
> > 1966 88" Elephant Chaser
> > http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
> > "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
> > with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 21:34:00 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Solex Question

Oh, right, I looked at it again and was mistaken.  Thanks

>>> [email-masked] 05/17/01 01:53 AM >>>
Thanks Ron, but no, I figured out that the gasket in question goes in
between the accelerator pump and the carb body.  The bolt patterns are
almost identical...

I don't think that there is a gasket between the starter body and carb body.
There is none shown in the manual, while all the other gaskets are there.

Paul.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>

> Paul,
>
> There should be a gasket where you didn't have one.  the gasket is in fact
the one that 95% lines up.  I asked the question earlier today and haven't
gotten a response.  Anyone?
> Ron Ward

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #380
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