Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #379

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 18:55:28 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Wednesday, May 16 2001 Volume 01 : Number 379

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 13:13:59 
From: "Chris Oles" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: 70 SIIa voltage stabilizer and wiring question

Adding a Midget tach and an aux fuel gauge to the rover.  The voltage 
stabilizer already has both output terminals being used by the regular fuel 
gauge and engine temp gauges.  Can I splice in the tach and aux fuel gauge 
into the terminals already being used, in effect having 2 gauges on each 
stabilizer terminal?  Or should I run a fresh lead from the fuse block into 
another stabilizer and from there into the 2 new gauges?  I just don't want 
to overload the stabilizer (if that's even possible)...

Also, how would I wire in a voltmeter.  Running a standard 2.25 with a Lucas 
(I believe) alternator?  Very specific instructions would help my rookie 
self.

TIA!

Chris
70 SIIa 88
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 10:25:01 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: Stalling/Rough idling SIII and . . .

You could do as most of us do. Park it on a slope so you don't see the
lean and happily ignore it. 
John and Muddy 

"KURT W. KRAUSS" wrote:
> 
> Just got my '73 SIII back from my mechanic (I know- I know - I should do
> the work myself) and he replaced the valve seals and front pipe where it
> meets the new exhaust manifold, reset the timing and replaced the spark
> plugs.  It no longer smokes on start up and idles beautifully.  It also
> has ceased popping like a 2 stroke Saab when going down hills in gear.
> You could feel the exhaust leak between where the manifold and old front
> pipe met, apparently causing this "popping" condition and idle problem.
> Next question.  It seems to be leaning to the right side.  I remember
> reading somewhere that sagging springs can be caused by not enough use.
> It only has 17,500 original miles.  Any suggestions?  If I replace the
> springs, do I have to do all 4?
> Kurt Krauss
> 73 NAS SIII 88

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 09:32:33 -0400
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Stalling/Rough idling SIII and . . .

Kurt,

Before you panic and 'spring' for new parabolics, obtain some Graphite spray
lubricant.  If unable to find a large can, it is available from hardware
stores and locksmiths in small cans ('LockEase' or some-such brand).
Spray it quite liberally between the leaves (using the little plastic tube
taped to the side of the can)of all 4 springs and then drive for a few days.
You should observe increased spring travel and a smoother ride.  This
process provides dry lubrication ( important, as any 'wet' lubrication
attracts dust & dirt which causes rapid spring wear)and alleviates any
inter-leaf stress that builds up from dirt and rust between the individual
spring leaves.
After a few days check to see if the truck is still leaning.  If so it is an
indication of either worn or tired springs.  At 17.5k miles, I doubt they
are worn but may be tired ("tired" indicates a need for re-arching otherwise
good condition spring leaves.)
Now you have to compare the relative costs of re-arching vs. replacing the
offending axle pairs of springs (always replace springs in axle sets...like
brake shoes and shocks).  Sometimes you can get away with exchanging springs
from side to side (but I wouldn't bother with this approach...too much work
and little chance it will last if it does help). Other LROs have reported
good results by dismantling each spring and inserting a teflon impregnated
strip of material between the leaves, which serves the same purpose as the
graphite.  Personally, I find the occasional application of graphite spray a
much less labor intensive solution compared to the teflon fix.

Oh yeah,...BTW, all Land Rovers lean a bit.  :>)

JT/ric

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 07:16:03 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Stalling/Rough idling SIII and . . .

On Wed, 16 May 2001 09:04:14 -0400 "KURT W. KRAUSS" <[email-masked]
It seems to be leaning to the right side.  I 
> remember
> reading somewhere that sagging springs can be caused by not enough 
> use.
> It only has 17,500 original miles.  Any suggestions?  If I replace 
> the
> springs, do I have to do all 4?
> Kurt Krauss
> 73 NAS SIII 88

The quickest and easiest solution to the leaning problem is to stop
considering  it a problem.  Spring height differences of up to 1" were OK
at the factory, so a lot of trucks lean.  And there were diffo. rh and lh
springs on many too, to compensate for driver/fuel weight being on one
side in a RHD truck.  But pretty much everyone's truck leans (or has
leaned at one time).  Sometimes the "problem" seems to  corrects itself. 
If the springs are sagging (as in letting the axles come close to the
bump stops when at rest), by all means replace all four.  But if their
arch is good and they're just making the truck lean a bit to the right,
just always park in parking spots on your right and whip into them--the
truck will end up level after the turn.

This (and certain persistent and unfixable oil leaks) really bothered me
for my first year or two of ownership and then I just quit even thinking
about 'em.  

bill

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 14:58:38 +0100 (BST)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Robert=20Ries?= <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Fords

A few days ago J-L wrote:

Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 11:03:41 -0400
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Newswire headline

..... But Ford sold second quality cars as new.

J-L, scarred for life from that bloody 89 Topaz.

J-L, you bought a Topaz?!  BWAhahahahahah..... cough,cough,
sorry about that...  We used to call them To-pits in the
north-east!    

=====
Robert D. Ries
SSgt, USAF
Burwell, England
"With friends like these..."

____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.co.uk address at http://mail.yahoo.co.uk
or your free @yahoo.ie address at http://mail.yahoo.ie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 14:58:36 +0100 (BST)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Robert=20Ries?= <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Fords

A few days ago J-L wrote:

Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 11:03:41 -0400
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Newswire headline

..... But Ford sold second quality cars as new.

J-L, scarred for life from that bloody 89 Topaz.

J-L, you bought a Topaz?!  BWAhahahahahah..... cough,cough,
sorry about that...  We used to call them To-pits in the
north-east!    

=====
Robert D. Ries
SSgt, USAF
Burwell, England
"With friends like these..."

____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.co.uk address at http://mail.yahoo.co.uk
or your free @yahoo.ie address at http://mail.yahoo.ie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 09:59:26 -0400
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: A clutch replacement tip

At 07:31 15/05/2001 -1000, you wrote:
> > Keith Tanner
> > ------------
> > Keith's page de home:
> >     http://keith.miata.net
> > ------------
> >
>
>Hey Keith, are ya going to paint the Rover to match Baby?  Stripe and all?
>Would look cool.

I have this tendency to put stripes on anything that sits in the driveway 
long enough :)  But somehow it just doesn't seem right for Basil. Now what 
I really want is a car I can put a flame job on. Again, that doesn't quite 
seem right unless I put the flames coming up from under the hood, as if the 
engine's on fire...

The original paint has so much character I think I'm going to match any new 
parts to the "faded Poppy Red" (aka Rustoleum Primer) colour.

Keith

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 14:35:08 GMT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: for the solex guru's

On the drive home last night I started thinking about the Solex carb. that I 
took off about 8 years ago.  So when I got home I pulled it off the shelf along 
with my box of spare solex parts and took a look at what it would take to 
rebuild it.  I came apart easily and the gaskets look ok, I cleaned it all up 
and its now laying in many pieces across the kitchen table.  My spare parts are 
the remainders of 2 other old solex’s that I collected over the years.  I have 
enough pieces and parts to almost build 2 complete carbs, so here is the rub.  
Does anyone have any junk solex’s laying around that they would be willing to 
part out cheap (see free)?  From what it looks like I need an emulsion tube, 
the linkage flange that holds the idle adjustment screw, and the small jet that 
screws into the top of the main carb. body.   This appears to be a jet but 
could be something entirely different.  It looks like a small brass grub screw 
about ¼” dia that has a pin hole in the end.  I have multiple sets of jets, 
floats and other items.  Another thing I noticed was that my original solex had 
what looked like an overflow tube from the float chamber to the venturi.  The 
other solex top piece I have does not have this feature.  No tube exists and it 
is not even drilled for the tube. Any idea out there as to which one is 
better?   I’ll have to look back through my old e-mails and find the info that 
jim allen wrote about the performance of the solex vs the weber at high 
altitude.  I am hoping to be able to put together a good working solex that 
will give a little more power.

E-mail me off list if any one is willing to part out an old junker they have 
laying around.  

Hurricane Mitch

- ---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using MHO WebMail.
http://www.mho.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 15:34:49 +0100
From: "Mike Rogers" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re-LRO: Rattly V8

Can you check the oil pressure? Your top end rattle could be the first signs
of a failing oil pump ignore this at your peril as bottom end damage will
soon follow.

If however the rattle is only from one cam follower it could simply be a
stuck hydraulic lifter, this is usually a sign of too long between oil
changes. Try adding a double dose of flushing oil to the old oil, run the
vehicle for about 20 miles, then change oil and filter.

Where are you? RPI have some new take out 3.9 cams going very cheaply, I put
one in my 3.5 and it works well. (note, I am a pal of Chris Crane of RPI but
have no commercial interest)

Oh and please please please don't post to the list in HTML it is a pain to
read on the digest as we get to see all the formatting crap, use plain text.

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid
LPG V8 110 project (thanks to Marijn)
(if you can't get there in a Land Rover you can't get there)

>>>>But my V8 has just developed a top-end rattle:-(

I'm guessing it's cam/tappet related (they all do that at 70k miles, sir).
So, what may be the consequences of ignoring it for a while, doing the LPG
conversion and with the reduced fuel costs save up for a cam set? Or is the
engine in danger of going bang?

Ho hum!<<<<

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 08:04:14 -0700
From: "Rich & Lori Williams" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Pink Panther For Sale

Cruising through Ebay this morning I found this and thought I'd pass it on
to the list.  Not every day that you find one for sale.  Usual disclaimers
apply of course.  This guy has a 101 FC for sale also.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=589647276&
r=0&t=0

Taking the day off of work today to make some progress on the 109.  As the
days are getting longer and the temps are more comfortable I am playing
hookie from the office more and more. I oughta fire myself so I can play
with the landy full time, but then that creates other problems.

Rich
'60 SII 109SW

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 11:07:12 -0400
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Vampire: Mission Declassified

I've been given permission to break my vow of silence.

A couple of weeks ago I snuck out of town on a secret mission. I flew 
to Phoenix and helped Gerald Ruderman drive his new acquisition,  101 
FC "Vampire" 76FL29, home to Boston. As Gerald wanted to surprise 
folks at the MORE Moose Trophy this past weekend, the trip wasn't 
public knowledge. (Folks on the LRHAM list, 101 list and a few who 
"had to know" were clued in.) I sent dispatches from the road to a 
group of select--mostly non-Rover--friends and those dispatches are 
archived, along with photos, at 
<http://www.ovlr.org/jberg/events/flight_of_vampire/fov_1.html>.

As always, there's also a link from my main page at 
<http://www.ovlr.org/jberg/>.

Enjoy--RoverOn!

jeff
- -- 
==
  Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                     [email-masked]
                      ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 16:58:18 +0100
From: "Steve Mace" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Stalling/Rough idling SIII and . . .

Try slacking off the bush and shackle bolts and see if the vehicle settles on it's 
springs a bit. I had this on my LtWt when it was new (to me) and went to the 
hassle and expense of new springs/shocks to only find out that the shackle 
bolts were rusted solid with the shackles at the wrong angle. When I finally got 
the bolts loosened off the vehicle settled down to the correct height. However, 
since I'd already done the hard work and purchased the springs, shocks and 
new bushes I decided to do the swap anyway (seemed a good idea at the 
time but by the end of the day with bloody knuckles, coughing due to burning 
the bushes out, ripped/dirty clothes and a real bad temper I regretted my 
decision).

On 16 May 2001, at 9:04, KURT W. KRAUSS wrote:

> Next question.  It seems to be leaning to the right side.  I remember
> reading somewhere that sagging springs can be caused by not enough use.
> It only has 17,500 original miles.  Any suggestions?  If I replace the
> springs, do I have to do all 4?

Steve

1972 SIII LtWt Green
1993 D90 Red
- -------------------------------------
Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: [email-masked]
www: http://www.solwise.co.uk
Tel: 0845 458 4558 (local rate)
Fax: 0845 458 4559
Intl. Fax. +44 1482 621877
- -------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 01 09:15:08 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: 109 Chassis

>There are definitely diffo's but I'm kind of hazy on them myself.  I do
>know that the rear tank mount for an SW is missing on the 109 reg.
>chassis and that the 109SW chassis is missing the forward tank mounting
>stuff.

When I went to add a rear fuel tank to my 109 regular, I found the 
stationwagon mounting points to already be there (The high capacity 
pickup has a rear tank).

The station wagon does not have the holes in the cross members for a rear 
PTO. I had to eliminate that off the second to rear cross member to fit 
the rear fuel tank.  There are also a couple of rear suspension braces 
that are extra or larger in the regular because they interfer with the 
rear fuel tank.  I had to trim some down.  Also if memory serves there 
are some different exhaust hanger brackets.

I think there may be some minor differences near where the rear side 
doors would be but I'm not sure what they are.

TeriAnn         
                      http://www.overlander.net

  The world's most complete set of links connecting Rover 4X4 owners
  with Rover parts, service, accessory & sales companies world wide.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 01 09:59:33 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: 70 SIIa voltage stabilizer and wiring question

>Adding a Midget tach and an aux fuel gauge to the rover.  The voltage 
>stabilizer already has both output terminals being used by the regular fuel 
>gauge and engine temp gauges.  Can I splice in the tach and aux fuel gauge 
>into the terminals already being used, in effect having 2 gauges on each 
>stabilizer terminal?  Or should I run a fresh lead from the fuse block into 
>another stabilizer and from there into the 2 new gauges?  I just don't want 
>to overload the stabilizer (if that's even possible)...

I'm running a MGB tach, 2 MGB fuel gauges and a TR6 water temperature 
gauge of a single Lucas voltage stabilizer I got of the donor MGB.  
Everything seems to work fine.
>
>Also, how would I wire in a voltmeter.  Running a standard 2.25 with a Lucas 
>(I believe) alternator?  Very specific instructions would help my rookie 
>self.

One wire goes to switched 12V, the other to chasis ground.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 13:44:08 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: for the solex guru's

Hold on, if I can't get mine to stop leaking, I'll give you the darn thing when I replace it with a Rochester.

Solex question:  Is there one specific way the middle (horizontal gasket separating the top half from the bottom half) seal of the Solex is supposed to go?  The gasket is about a 1.5" square with a little tab (3/5") that sticks out of one side.  Anyway, this gasket has holes for the four through bolts and then a series of other holes, in pairs, but not in any real pattern that do not necessary line up with anything on the upper and lower halves of the Solex.  I fear this could be a real source of trial-error-trial-error-trial and I only have the one gasket.  Anyone?

TIA

Ron Ward

>>> [email-masked] 05/16/01 10:35AM >>>
On the drive home last night I started thinking about the Solex carb. that I 
took off about 8 years ago.  So when I got home I pulled it off the shelf along 
with my box of spare solex parts and took a look at what it would take to 
rebuild it.  I came apart easily and the gaskets look ok, I cleaned it all up 
and its now laying in many pieces across the kitchen table.  My spare parts are 
the remainders of 2 other old solex's that I collected over the years.  I have 
enough pieces and parts to almost build 2 complete carbs, so here is the rub.  
Does anyone have any junk solex's laying around that they would be willing to 
part out cheap (see free)?  From what it looks like I need an emulsion tube, 
the linkage flange that holds the idle adjustment screw, and the small jet that 
screws into the top of the main carb. body.   This appears to be a jet but 
could be something entirely different.  It looks like a small brass grub screw 
about ¼" dia that has a pin hole in the end.  I have multiple sets of jets, 
floats and other items.  Another thing I noticed was that my original solex had 
what looked like an overflow tube from the float chamber to the venturi.  The 
other solex top piece I have does not have this feature.  No tube exists and it 
is not even drilled for the tube. Any idea out there as to which one is 
better?   I'll have to look back through my old e-mails and find the info that 
jim allen wrote about the performance of the solex vs the weber at high 
altitude.  I am hoping to be able to put together a good working solex that 
will give a little more power.

E-mail me off list if any one is willing to part out an old junker they have 
laying around.  

Hurricane Mitch

- ---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using MHO WebMail.
http://www.mho.net 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 14:09:47 -0400
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Fords

Actually, had a topaz I bought for 70$. Used it as a go cart until the rear
suspension tore out of the body. Nasty.

I was referring to an incident involving an exhaust manifold and incredibly
rusted bolts on one of those. It was not mine, I am glad.

>
> J-L, you bought a Topaz?!  BWAhahahahahah..... cough,cough,
> sorry about that...  We used to call them To-pits in the
> north-east!
>
>
>
> =====
> Robert D. Ries
> SSgt, USAF
> Burwell, England
> "With friends like these..."
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.co.uk address at http://mail.yahoo.co.uk
> or your free @yahoo.ie address at http://mail.yahoo.ie
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 11:30:00 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Rattly V8

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 13:54:35 +0100
From: "John Leah" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Rattly V8

>But my V8 has just developed a top-end rattle:-(
I'm guessing it's cam/tappet related (they all do that at 70k miles, sir).

The Rover V-8 has hydraulic lifters that, for whatever reason, seem to 
be extremely susceptible to dirt/varnish/etc.  It doesn't take much for 
a lifter to stick, and then you get the classic valve clatter sound.  The problem 
is that what you're hearing is the lifter banging against the cam lobe.  Every 
bang hammers the lobe down a tiny bit, and eventually, the lobe will be 
flattened to the point where the valve travel and timing will be affected.  Big, 
expensive job to fix.

Unfortunately, it's pretty hard to determine which lifter is sticking, and changing 
them requires taking everything off the top of the engine to get at them.  This 
is why it's so important to keep the oil in a Rover V-8 relatively clean. Even though 
the owner's manual for our '91 Range Rover says change the oil every 5,000 or 7,000 
miles or whatever, you should really do it every 3,000 miles.

If you have a sticking lifter, you can try chemotherapy on it as a first resort. Pour a quart 
of ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) into the oil and run the engine that way until the 
next oil change.  ATF has a very high detergent value, more so than the so-called engine 
cleaners you can buy off the shelf at auto parts stores.  Depending on what's causing your 
lifter to stick, the ATF may eventually break it down and clean out the lifter.  It will not happen 
overnight, however.  It takes a while for this to work.  I had a sticking lifter on startup in our 
Range Rover a few years ago.  The noise went away after a few minutes, but I knew the cam 
was getting pounded during that few minutes.  I was told about the ATF thing and tried it, 
and after a few weeks, the noise went away.  So far, it hasn't come back.  I've also used 
the process with some success in our old Ford F-250 pickup.

If you try this, make sure you don't add any more than a quart of ATF to the oil.  It has a 
very low viscosity, and any more than a quart can thin out the engine oil too much.  You 
don't have to remove a quart of engine oil before adding the ATF, just pour the ATF in there.

It may be that what you're hearing is something else entirely.  But before I tried the ATF 
treatment, I examined the factory service manual carefully to see if there is any adjustment 
possible on the rocker arms themselves, and there isn't.  At least not on the 3.9 version of 
the engine.  I suppose it's possible that other components of your valve train like the rocker 
arm bearing surfaces have worn to the point where the hydraulic lifters are no longer capable 
of taking up the slack.  In this case, the cure would be to replace the rocker arms, and 
maybe the rockers themselves, or at least their bushings (I don't know for sure how the 
rocker arm and rockers are set up in the V-8, so I'm going by the setup used in the old 
Series engine).
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 11:37:31 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Springs (was Stalling/Rough idling....)

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 09:04:14 -0400
From: "KURT W. KRAUSS" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Stalling/Rough idling SIII and . . .

>It seems to be leaning to the right side.  I remember
reading somewhere that sagging springs can be caused by not enough use.
It only has 17,500 original miles.  Any suggestions?  If I replace the
springs, do I have to do all 4?

Fist of all, Series Land Rovers have a tendency to lean one way 
or the other anyway.  Even the factory service manual has a pretty 
wide envelope for ground-to-body-corner clearances.  My SIII has 
always leaned a bit one way or the other sometimes from the day 
it was brand new.  And sometimes it ends up sitting level.  So changing 
the springs might not actually accomplish anything in regards 
to the body lean, or it may make it lean the other way.  But if 
you want to try it anyway, you should probably change both springs 
on an axle, rather than only one side.  I changed the rears on my SIII 
when they began to lose their arch in the early '80s, and then several 
years later I changed the fronts.  There's no need to do them all at 
the same time unless they're all bad, but like brakes, you should 
probably do both sides of each axle at the same time.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 11:52:25 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: corrosion issues/shipfitters disease/sil

Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 18:56:25 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: corrosion issues/shipfitters disease/sil

>Marin's going to have apoplexy about my saying stainless fasteners are fine 
on a rover.

Not totally.  But using stainless with aluminum does set up the potential 
for a real corrosion problem IF the other conditions required are met, mainly 
that there is some sort of conductor to connect the two metals electrically.  
Physical contact can do it, as can the presence of moisture, salt deposits, 
road grime, etc.  The conditions on a vehicle are generally not nearly as 
severe as those encountered in boats, seaplanes, etc.  But the potential is 
certainly there.  A number of Discovery owners in the later 1990s experienced 
pretty severe corrosion problems on the bodies of their vehicles where the 
aluminum skin was fastened to the steel substructure.  And this was "regular" 
steel, not stainless steel.  The dissimilar-metal corrosion problem was widespread 
enough to result in a class-action lawsuit against Land Rover and the importer, but 
I have no idea how it all came out.  Interestingly enough, the majority of the 
complaints came from Discovery owners in the south, which stands to reason as 
the climate is hotter and more humid than in other parts of the country, which 
tends to promote electrolysis.

You might use stainless fasteners and not experience any problems at all, but 
you might also end up with some holes, or at least very weak metal, in your 
vehicle.  The opening fairlead roller of my Fairey capstan winch is made of 
stainless steel, and I haven't had any problems from it.  Of course, it's not in 
direct contact with any aluminum bits on the vehicle, so the electrical connection 
in this case is pretty minimal if there even is one.

But I've seen enough examples over the years of what stainless steel can do to 
aluminum to be extremely wary of using it outside of situations where the entire 
grounding and bonding system is set up to combat the electrolysis that can occur.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 19:00:07 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: A clutch replacement tip

>parts to the "faded Poppy Red" (aka Rustoleum Primer) colour.
>
>Keith
>

Tremclad or Rustoleum "Chinese Red" will match the Poppy Red and will fade 
and look crappy fast enough. I agree with you about leaving the old paint. 
The old paint has character. One of the reasons Bruce Fowler's truck Timshel 
looks so cool.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 15:04:16 -0400
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Re: Rattly V8

To add some to Marin's suggestions.
I too have used the ATF solution (ouch) for clearing a sticky lifter.
Mazda V6 engines are very succeptible to this problem and the factory
recommends a GM Oil Additive that is supposed to prevent it. It's one of
those sticky goops that feels and smells like Lucas Oil Stabilizer but costs
four times as much.
Consequently I use Lucas oil stabilizer and haven't had lifter problems
since (Until tonight off course). 
I always add a litre of ATF a couple of days before my oil change too. The
impression is just subjective, but it seems the new oil stays clean longer
when I've done this.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 15:09:45 -0400
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Pink Panther For Sale

Is this Jim Pappas's old Pinkie? 
Mr Schwartz is, I think,  a Wheeler-dealer, that's not to say he isn't
honest, but his aim is to make a profit. I sold him a genuine LR screw jack
once. Payment was prompt and I was happy.
His emails made him sound like a LRO who wanted to restore his vehicle to
concours condition for pure pleasure.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Rich & Lori Williams [SMTP:[email-masked]]
> Sent:	Wednesday, May 16, 2001 11:04 AM
> To:	[email-masked]
> Subject:	LRO: Pink Panther For Sale
> 
> Cruising through Ebay this morning I found this and thought I'd pass it on
> to the list.  Not every day that you find one for sale.  Usual disclaimers
> apply of course.  This guy has a 101 FC for sale also.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=58964727
> 6&
> r=0&t=0
> 
> Taking the day off of work today to make some progress on the 109.  As the
> days are getting longer and the temps are more comfortable I am playing
> hookie from the office more and more. I oughta fire myself so I can play
> with the landy full time, but then that creates other problems.
> 
> Rich
> '60 SII 109SW

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 15:19:36 -0400
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: RE: Pink Panther For Sale

If he works for Schwartz-PR, he's right up the street, and they do our PR.
He's listed on their site as being an antique car collector and restorer in
his spare time.  If only we could all put that on our corporate management
bio...

Matt

- -----Original Message-----
From: Easton Trevor A [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 3:10 PM
To: [email-masked]'
Subject: LRO: RE: Pink Panther For Sale

Is this Jim Pappas's old Pinkie? 
Mr Schwartz is, I think,  a Wheeler-dealer, that's not to say he isn't
honest, but his aim is to make a profit. I sold him a genuine LR screw jack
once. Payment was prompt and I was happy.
His emails made him sound like a LRO who wanted to restore his vehicle to
concours condition for pure pleasure.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Rich & Lori Williams [SMTP:[email-masked]]
> Sent:	Wednesday, May 16, 2001 11:04 AM
> To:	[email-masked]
> Subject:	LRO: Pink Panther For Sale
> 
> Cruising through Ebay this morning I found this and thought I'd pass it on
> to the list.  Not every day that you find one for sale.  Usual disclaimers
> apply of course.  This guy has a 101 FC for sale also.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=58964727
> 6&
> r=0&t=0
> 
> Taking the day off of work today to make some progress on the 109.  As the
> days are getting longer and the temps are more comfortable I am playing
> hookie from the office more and more. I oughta fire myself so I can play
> with the landy full time, but then that creates other problems.
> 
> Rich
> '60 SII 109SW

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 19:18:53 +0100
From: Andy Smith <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Rattly V8

In message <[email-masked]
tel.com>, John Leah <[email-masked]> writes
>    I'm guessing it's cam/tappet related (they all do that at 70k 
>    miles, sir). So, what may be the consequences of ignoring it for a 
>    while, doing the LPG conversion and with the reduced fuel costs 
>    save up for a cam set? Or is the engine in danger of going bang?

Me personally I would do the top end overhaul first. Don't really no why
I just would. 8)

- ---
Andy Smith

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 14:39:06 -0700
From: "Dick Love" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: First question (followup to "I did it")

OK, I put gas in the "Mountain Slug" and drove it around a little( had to
jump start it as battery was down). It stumbles badly on acceleration. There
was no popping and farting so I think it wasn't ignition. Should I s**t can
the single barrel Weber and put a Rochester on it or screw around with the
jetting on the Weber (lean?). The Lucas "SureFire" distributor puts out a
real weak spark so I guess I should go to Petronix there while replacing the
coil. I flooded it and had a bitch of a time resarting it due to the
weakness of ignition, I think. Tranny and transfer case seem pretty tight
and steering doesn't have too much wander. The oil cooler likes to "moan"
something awful. Maybe I should change the name to "Banshee".

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 16:57:56 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: First question (followup to "I did it")k

On Wed, 16 May 2001, Dick Love wrote:

:OK, I put gas in the "Mountain Slug" and drove it around a little( had to
:jump start it as battery was down). It stumbles badly on acceleration. There
:was no popping and farting so I think it wasn't ignition. Should I s**t can
:the single barrel Weber and put a Rochester on it or screw around with the
:jetting on the Weber (lean?). The Lucas "SureFire" distributor puts out a
:real weak spark so I guess I should go to Petronix there while replacing the
:coil. I flooded it and had a bitch of a time resarting it due to the
:weakness of ignition, I think. Tranny and transfer case seem pretty tight
:and steering doesn't have too much wander. The oil cooler likes to "moan"
:something awful. Maybe I should change the name to "Banshee".

Replace the points, condensor, rotor, cap, wires, and spark plugs.  Then set
your timing by the book, before going and spending money.
:

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 15:16:48 -0700
From: "Paul Quin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Another Solex Question

Unexpectedly got the afternoon off today and all of the Solex talk going
around inspired me to tackle my whistling Solex.

I think that I've found the air leak between the Starter body (part # 22 in
the green manual) and the Throttle chamber (part # 2).  Is there supposed to
be a gasket between these two bits?  There was no gasket there when I got
the vehicle.  I have two Solex overhaul kits and both have a gasket that
*almost* fits...  the screw holes are 95% lined up but there seems to be an
excess of other holes in the gasket.  I know that there is an optional
heater element that fits in here and I thought it possible that this gasket
would be used for the element assembly (part #23).

Can anybody help out??

Thanks,

Paul Quin
1961 SII 88
Victoria, BC

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 22:44:48 -0400
From: Stephen West-Fisher <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: for the solex guru's

[email-masked] wrote:
  Another thing I noticed was that my original solex had
> what looked like an overflow tube from the float chamber to the venturi.  The
> other solex top piece I have does not have this feature.  No tube exists and it
> is not even drilled for the tube. Any idea out there as to which one is
> better? 

Afraid I'm hanging on to my spares, but I never noticed the tube making
a difference. The origional on mine had the tube. It also had a problem
with the top cover, and when RN sent me another it didn't have the tube.
I couldn't tell the difference when driving. I believe it's really a
vent, not an overflow.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 19:54:24 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: A clutch replacement tip

A "flame" job would look good on a Land Rover.... particularly in the
interior around the dash wiring
John and Muddy 

Keith Tanner wrote:
> 
> At 07:31 15/05/2001 -1000, you wrote:
> > > Keith Tanner
> > > ------------
> > > Keith's page de home:
> > >     http://keith.miata.net
> > > ------------
> > >
> >
> >Hey Keith, are ya going to paint the Rover to match Baby?  Stripe and all?
> >Would look cool.
> 
> I have this tendency to put stripes on anything that sits in the driveway
> long enough :)  But somehow it just doesn't seem right for Basil. Now what
> I really want is a car I can put a flame job on. Again, that doesn't quite
> seem right unless I put the flames coming up from under the hood, as if the
> engine's on fire...
> 
> The original paint has so much character I think I'm going to match any new
> parts to the "faded Poppy Red" (aka Rustoleum Primer) colour.
> 
> Keith

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 20:01:29 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: First question (followup to "I did it")

Make sure the system voltage is up where it should be so you have the
best spark going and work from there.
John and Muddy

Dick Love wrote:
> 
> OK, I put gas in the "Mountain Slug" and drove it around a little( had to
> jump start it as battery was down). It stumbles badly on acceleration. There
> was no popping and farting so I think it wasn't ignition. Should I s**t can
> the single barrel Weber and put a Rochester on it or screw around with the
> jetting on the Weber (lean?). The Lucas "SureFire" distributor puts out a
> real weak spark so I guess I should go to Petronix there while replacing the
> coil. I flooded it and had a bitch of a time resarting it due to the
> weakness of ignition, I think. Tranny and transfer case seem pretty tight
> and steering doesn't have too much wander. The oil cooler likes to "moan"
> something awful. Maybe I should change the name to "Banshee".

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #379
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