Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #376

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 21:48:18 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *  Monday, May 14 2001  Volume 01 : Number 376

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: 14 May 2001 07:09:29 -0700
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Mrs. Merdle's new frame (looooong)

On Sun, 13 May 2001, "William J. Rice" wrote:

> Hey all,
> The frameover is going quite well.  >I've had tons of incredible help....

Bill,

Excellent news!  Too bad it's 18 hours from your area to my area.  I'd love to slip my frame over in at the tail end of yours and see if anybody noticed, or just kept working!  

Bryan
62 88
70 109 "Genie"

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 10:51:19 -0400
From: James Schenck <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #375

PLEASE take me off of this mailing list i am getting hounded from my 
boss for getting this!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 10:54:05 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Dealing with old cotterpins and other clutch fun

- --part1_81.b03e81d.28314b8d_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 5/14/01 9:49:50 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [email-masked] 
writes:

> I'm going to try 
> to support the tranny on a trolley jack - how much does it weigh?
> 
> 

If you have a friend, 2 can easily handle the transmission--One stout fellow 
can do it as well, but not great for the back.

Nate

- --part1_81.b03e81d.28314b8d_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 5/14/01 9:49:50 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [email-masked] 
<BR>writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I'm going to try 
<BR>to support the tranny on a trolley jack - how much does it weigh?
<BR>
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>If you have a friend, 2 can easily handle the transmission--One stout fellow 
<BR>can do it as well, but not great for the back.
<BR>
<BR>Nate</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_81.b03e81d.28314b8d_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 11:09:43 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Dealing with old cotterpins and other clutch fun

No, sounds like every damn LR clutch I've ever done.

Definitely look hard at the pins and the cross-shaft tube - wear in the
holes and pins can isert a lot of slop in the mechanism. When I did the
clutch on Miss Jessica I ended up turning slightly oversize new pins to
soak up the slop in the mechanism and anti-seizing the heck out of
everything to deal with the terminal cotterpin rust seizing.

The one thing I recommend is making a set of guide pins for putting the
tranny back in. Get 4 3/8 coarse bolts about 3-4" long, cut the heads off
and grind them to a point. Slot them with a hacksaw for easy removal. Put
these in place of 4 of the studs and they give you a good guide for
remating the engine and tranny.

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 00:24:42 +0900
From: Keith Addison <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: starter motor

Hello all

Emerging from lurkdom to ask if anyone knows of another company than 
Lucas that makes starter motors to fit an S3 1973 petrol lightweight 
- - preferably a Japanese company (I live in Tokyo now). My *new* Lucas 
starter motor lasted 300 miles!! What a piece of junk. The old one 
was junk (I fixed it six times) but this one's atrocious.

Many thanks

Best wishes

Keith Addison

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 01 08:04:31 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Body "Rubbers"

>Tyre sidewall bits, perhaps?

What is it about series owners that a large number of people immediately 
start thinking of coming up with a hack that kinda might kinda work as 
long as you don' want it to be pretty.

Many of these same people say if you use assemblies that are not an 
option from the factory then you no longer own a Land Rover.

So what the heck is wrong with using the genuine Land Rover body seals?  
I installed a new set in '98 and I do not recall them being overly 
expensive.

Why bungie cord the red lever to keep it from rattling when you can just 
replace the cheap stock anti rattle spring?

TeriAnn         
                      http://www.overlander.net

  The world's most complete set of links connecting Rover 4X4 owners
  with Rover parts, service, accessory & sales companies world wide.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 01 08:52:18 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Dealing with old cotterpins and other clutch fun

>I'm having trouble dealing with the cotterpins used in various places, 
>primarily with the ones attached to the clutch lever and relay arm. Every 
>one of them is rusted in place

Wow!  Mine were always real greasy from the British external lubrication 
system.  No chance for rust to get started when metal is protected by a 
thick layer of oil.

> and brittle, meaning that I can snap the 
>heads off and pull then out, then drill the part. Am I missing some 
>fundamental Old Car Trick for dealing with these, or is it a fact of life? 
>How can I make it easier for myself next time?

As far as I know you just get them out any way you can and replace them 
with new pins.

>Any tips for clutch replacement would be appreciated as well.

Since this sounds like the clutch has been ignored for a long time may I 
suggest you take a good look at the clutch linkage between the clutch 
slave cylinder and the throwout bearing.  Parts wear over time, holes 
elongate and slop is created in the linkage.

Just a little slop in the lower linkage requires a larger amount of pedal 
travel to take it up.  Add up the slop from a bunch or worn joints and 
you can end up with a lot of pedal travel just to take up the slop.

When I checked mine, all the holes were elongated, the bronze ball was 
badly worn and distorted and the felt pieces were almost gone. I ended up 
replacing the collier, brass ball, 'L' lever, felt oil rings and pins.  
When the old parts were in, the clutch released less than one inch from 
the floor.  With the new linkage parts and no other changes the clutch 
released when the pedal was half way to the floor.

Now that I think of it, I wonder how many people ever periodically add a 
drop or two of oil on the felt pads around the brass ball on their clutch 
linkage?

>  The relay lever for the clutch is 
>still in place because it appears I'd have to drop the gas tank in order to 
>remove it - I'm hoping to manouver the tranny around it.

??????? The relay lever for the clutch on a series IIA is beside the bell 
housing under the clutch slave cylinder.  That is way far from any stock 
fuel tank.  

Any chance you are referring to the emergency brake linkage?  If you are 
referring to the e-brake linkage, and the lever that is mounted to the 
inside of the frame  you do not have to move it.  And you can get to both 
sides of the bolts without removing the fuel tank.

> I'm going to try 
>to support the tranny on a trolley jack - how much does it weigh?

As I recall around 100 pounds, probably lighter.  I just get in there 
with it, pull it back and let it rest on the transmission cross member 
with a jack stand supporting the rear.

Speaking of which, do not forget to put a jack stand under the rear of 
the engine to support it.

If you have not done this sort of thing before, follow the factory 
workshop manual closely.  It will be a lot easier the second time.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 10:47:02 -0600
From: "Ross Maylor" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Carb problems on 109 ex military SIII

I sent this message previously and got no response so either you guys are
dead or nobody gives a rats arse.
Installed new Zenith 361v carb to replace old one that was worn and leaking
gas past the O ring seal into the engine resulting in rough-rich running and
no idle no matter how much adjustments were made. The new carb is better but
suffers from the same problem. A thicker O ring helped only slightly. I read
on a LR web site a brief mention of glass plate grinding that may offer help
but no details of this were provided. Can any one expand on this?

Also is there a method of search the list archives for specific information?

Regards
Ross

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 14:24:42 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions

Probably built by Fiat.
John and Muddy 

Lee Jones wrote:
> 
> Why?  Did their chariots not pass the MOT?
> 
> Lee
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
> Behalf Of John Cranfield
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 7:30 AM
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions
> 
> Since the Romans fought on foot that doesn't work out.
> John and Muddy.
> 
> Lee Jones wrote:
> >
> > I had heard that it was because the Romans could drive on the left, hold
> the
> > reins in their left hand and use their swords on the heathen Brits with
> > their right hand..... :-)
> >
> > Lee
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
> > Behalf Of Paul Quin
> > Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2001 5:22 PM
> > To: [email-masked]
> > Subject: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions
> >
> > > >>Why do the Brit's drive on the left?<<
> > > Because it's SAFER ! Research has been done to show that because the
> > > majority of people are right-handed they have better control of a
> steering
> > > wheel if they use their right hand during gear changing etc. Driving on
> > the
> > > right would mean left hand on the wheel during gear changing which is
> not
> > as
> > > good control wise.
> >
> > This is good logic, but you all were driving (horses) on the left a
> century
> > before it was necessary to change gears...   There was a rumour that it
> > actually dates back to Roman times, but I can't remember the details...
> >
> > Paul in Victoria (Canada so I'm not a yank!!)  :-)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 14:37:39 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: Carb problems on 109 ex military SIII

We don't give a rats arse.
However the OVLR site has extensive FAQ that cover this.
John and Muddy

Ross Maylor wrote:
> 
> I sent this message previously and got no response so either you guys are
> dead or nobody gives a rats arse.
> Installed new Zenith 361v carb to replace old one that was worn and leaking
> gas past the O ring seal into the engine resulting in rough-rich running and
> no idle no matter how much adjustments were made. The new carb is better but
> suffers from the same problem. A thicker O ring helped only slightly. I read
> on a LR web site a brief mention of glass plate grinding that may offer help
> but no details of this were provided. Can any one expand on this?
> 
> Also is there a method of search the list archives for specific information?
> 
> Regards
> Ross

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 19:37:28 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions

Any relation to walking?
Seems we in the US are taught to walk down the right hand side of the hall
when in school.  And builders always set the escalators in pairs, and the
one you are using is on the right.  Every one going in the opposite
direction is on the left.  Same with mechanical walkways.
How is this handled in places were they drive on the left?
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 13:46:14 -0400
From: "Richard L. Ziegler" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Crank pulley seal & distributor vacuum

CR makes a stainless steel Speedi-Sleeve, that fits our crankshaft at the
pulley position, it is #99192 (diameter 1.916") and use with their oil seal
#481195.  I use Locktite adhesive/sealant #271 to make sure the sleeve stays
in place and no oil leaks between the sleeve and the crankshaft.

As to left hand/right hand connections of the vacuum unit for vacuum
advance/retard of the distributor:  The left-handed connection type was used
on non-pollution controlled L/Rs and the right-handed type was used on
pollution controlled L/Rs (late series IIa starting in '69 and III) to
achieve vacuum retard.

Rich Ziegler, Series L/R mechanic & owner since '63

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 19:45:14 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Body "Rubbers"

> side walls from bias ply tires works.
> Joghn and Muddy
>
And from belted radials.  Steel belts are only in the tread.  A wood blade
in the sawzall will work wonders.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 11:03:28 -0700
From: "Dick Love" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Well, I did it!

Just added a 67 swb, ex MOD, lhd, petrol to our family of British vehicles.
SWMBO drives a Disco and has a Morgan in our garage. I'm more a motorcycle
man and have a '50 Vincent Black Shadow and a 750cc Triton (modern Ducati as
well). We have a  small 2nd home in the Telluride, Co area and eventually
the swb will end up there on a permanent basis. First I have to get it back
to it's basic self. Presently it has Volvo seats, radio and speakers in the
dash and a lot of other guages, carpeting etc. that was added in an attempt
to "civilize" it. As an ex MOD it has some strange stuff (how about an old
time starter button separate from the military style ignition switch) for
which i don't think are covered by any manuals. It has the aux tank which I
can't get to as the Volvo seat is bolted down over it. I have a set of
military seats which will replace th Volvos. I have both soft and hard tops.
Safari door and tailgate as well. I haven't had time to go over it in detail
as it is at a friends' welding shop here in Southern California. It has NO
HEATER! That is not going to fly in January in the Rocky Mts. The engine and
tranny/transfer box seemed to be pretty good before it ran out of gas on me.
I guess I will soon start to discover if these things are as "basic and
simple" as they are cracked up to be. Let the games begin!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 13:39:32 -0400
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Dealing with old cotterpins and other clutch fun

>Any chance you are referring to the emergency brake linkage?  If you are
>referring to the e-brake linkage, and the lever that is mounted to the
>inside of the frame  you do not have to move it.  And you can get to both
>sides of the bolts without removing the fuel tank.

TeriAnn's right - it is the brake linkage. Whoops. I can see both sides of 
the bolts and get wrenches on them, but the tank prevents me from 
withdrawing them and thus the lever. There's no trick or anything involved 
- - the tank is butted up against the head of the bolt. It looks like it will 
be tricky to pull the tranny back with that critter sticking out, but I'll 
have a good look at it all before I start unbolting the remaining bits.

I'm following the manual very closely - I appreciate the tips! This 
particular vehicle suffered from clutch hydraulic failure and the owner 
screwed around with it for 9 years trying to get it working. Bolts were 
rounded on the transmission brake drum, the pushrod was extended into the 
cockpit, the hard lines were mangled, etc. I can put a block of wood 
between the flywheel housing and the crossmember to support the engine.

It's my second clutch swap. Sort of. My Miata is currently sitting in the 
garage with the tranny on the floor as I await a part, halfway through a 
clutch job.

Keith

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 20:02:26 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions

> BIG  problem is a lot of Yahoos in lifted,
> big wheel trucks insist on taking the center lane even around blind turns.
> The only relatively safe time to take the road is at night when you can
see
> the oncoming headlights before the vehicle.

Luckily all the yahoos must have been home with their moms yesterday. Good
thing too cause we were in the cloads/rain from PTA all the way into Hilo
(about 35 miles).  The raod is posted 45mph just about the whole distance,
and unless you are in a properly set up sports car, there are some turns I
wouldn't have attempted at speed on a dry day.  Guess none of this is really
relevant to a Rover, but there were miles and miles of trails of the road.
A couple of us have been discussing shipping the Rovers over from Oahu for a
3-4 day wheeling camping trip.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 11:18:26 -0700
From: Paul Quin <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Re: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions

	"Same with mechanical walkways.
	How is this handled in places were they drive on the left?
Pete"

I seem to remember that on all of those pedestrian conveyor belts under
Heathrow airport London,  you are passing people on your right, same as the
roads above...

Paul in Victoria.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 20:22:51 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Crank pulley seal & distributor vacuum

>  The left-handed connection type was used
> on non-pollution controlled L/Rs and the right-handed type was used on
> pollution controlled L/Rs (late series IIa starting in '69 and III) to
> achieve vacuum retard.

I know of 3 1970 IIas, a 1969 IIa, and a 73 Ser III that all have a vacume
advance (left hand).  All of these had some form of PCV system, but nothing
else in the way of polution controls.  All 5 were NADA vehicles.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 14:31:19 -0400
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Well, I did it!

Welcome aboard!  That starter button was used on civilian models as well, 
by the way. It's the normal switch. You should be able to retrofit a heater 
quite easily - I've got the Kodiak in my '67 swb. http://keith.miata.net/landy

Keith

At 11:03 14/05/2001 -0700, Dick Love wrote:
>Just added a 67 swb, ex MOD, lhd, petrol to our family of British vehicles.
>SWMBO drives a Disco and has a Morgan in our garage. I'm more a motorcycle
>man and have a '50 Vincent Black Shadow and a 750cc Triton (modern Ducati as
>well). We have a  small 2nd home in the Telluride, Co area and eventually
>the swb will end up there on a permanent basis. First I have to get it back
>to it's basic self. Presently it has Volvo seats, radio and speakers in the
>dash and a lot of other guages, carpeting etc. that was added in an attempt
>to "civilize" it. As an ex MOD it has some strange stuff (how about an old
>time starter button separate from the military style ignition switch) for
>which i don't think are covered by any manuals. It has the aux tank which I
>can't get to as the Volvo seat is bolted down over it. I have a set of
>military seats which will replace th Volvos. I have both soft and hard tops.
>Safari door and tailgate as well. I haven't had time to go over it in detail
>as it is at a friends' welding shop here in Southern California. It has NO
>HEATER! That is not going to fly in January in the Rocky Mts. The engine and
>tranny/transfer box seemed to be pretty good before it ran out of gas on me.
>I guess I will soon start to discover if these things are as "basic and
>simple" as they are cracked up to be. Let the games begin!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 11:47:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: whats a broken koenig worth

	I need a bit of advice from the winch-wise.  Please reply off-line, as I   
am in digest mode.

	Assume you know the following about this winch.  Asking price is near   
$700.  What would you pay for it, knowing you will have to pay to ship it   
1000 miles.

	Case and chain case good Drum and A frame are good  Fairlead good.   
Mounting frame is good.  Dog clutch/freewheel brake is good. No drive   
chain.  Obviously broken during an attempt to operate the winch (see   
sprocket below).  Engage/disengage fork broken.  Engage/disengage clutch   
(at lower end of chain case)  broken, but lower sprocket is ok.  Upper   
drive sprocket, missing one tooth, another bent.  Obviously sat full of   
water.  Has no oil in it.  scaly rust halfway up the worm gear and clutch   
pack.  Clutch pack seized.  Parts are recognizable, and after some   
forcing/liberal oiling, the main shaft turns and also spins the rust   
covered worm gear.  Bull gear is good.  All bearings and seals   
rusty/rotten.  Bolt broken off at fwd/reverse clutch pack lever and will   
need drilling out.  All springs/detent balls present and ok.  Case full   
of mud/rust flake.  No drive shaft or drive flange.

I'd appreciate replies as soon as you can make them.

Simon

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 14:20:11 -0600
From: "Ross Maylor" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Carb problems on 109 ex military SIII

John,
Thanks for the lead. I searched and read and searched....however no info on
the subject of zenith carbs that I could find. Any other leads would be
appreciated.
Thanks,
 Ross Maylor
Calgary

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 14:04:39 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: anti rattle springs

TA asked,
"Why bungie cord the red lever to keep it from rattling when you can just

replace the cheap stock anti rattle spring?"

Yeah, every morning before leaving the house  . . .  I did this job once
and I think the thing fell out pretty promptly.  I've heard tell of
people wiring them in.  Which reminds me that my floor's currently out
and I have a new (well, new for me) tranny sitting there and a new spare
anti-rattle spring (figured it was futile to install it after the 1st
one's demise) so maybe I should throw it in there now.  Should I wire it
in place or is there some sort of incantation I need to recite when
putting it in there to make it stay?

bill

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 14:06:22 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Walking and driving

I spent a few mos. in India and England one summer.  Just about the time
I came back to the 'States I was finally used to dodging left to avoid
other walkers. So I basically ran into everyone I approached for about 4
mos--first unlearning my "dodge right" instinct and then relearning it.

bill

On Sun, 13 May 2001 19:37:28 -1000 "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
writes:
> Any relation to walking?
> Seems we in the US are taught to walk down the right hand side of 
> the hall
> when in school.  And builders always set the escalators in pairs, 
> and the
> one you are using is on the right.  Every one going in the opposite
> direction is on the left.  Same with mechanical walkways.
> How is this handled in places were they drive on the left?
> Pete
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 14:02:12 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Body "Rubbers"

TA, I think you're misunderstanding the part they're talking about (then
again, maybe I am).  I noticed you mentioned roofside to body seals
before.  My impression on this thread was that it was about the rubber
thingmos that go between the steel supports on a 109SW tub and the
supports that extend up from the frame.  Held on by two clips each.  I
re-used mine since they weren't too brittle.  Used Automotive GOOP to
glue them to the gorgeous, sexy, galvanized finish of my tub supports.

Anyway, it wasn't my impression that they were talking about any sort of
seal here.

bill

> What is it about series owners that a large number of people 
> immediately 
> start thinking of coming up with a hack that kinda might kinda work 
> as 
> long as you don' want it to be pretty.
> 
> Many of these same people say if you use assemblies that are not an 
> 
> option from the factory then you no longer own a Land Rover.
> 
> So what the heck is wrong with using the genuine Land Rover body 
> seals?  
> I installed a new set in '98 and I do not recall them being overly 
> expensive.
> 
> Why bungie cord the red lever to keep it from rattling when you can 
> just 
> replace the cheap stock anti rattle spring?
> 
> 
> 
>  
> TeriAnn         
>                       http://www.overlander.net
> 
>   The world's most complete set of links connecting Rover 4X4 
> owners
>   with Rover parts, service, accessory & sales companies world 
> wide.
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 22:19:10 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: whats a broken koenig worth

Simon,
drive shaft is made up from a bunch of common spicer parts and a 1" shaft.
The drive flange can be fabricated.  Bruce Fowler hooked me up with a
machinest to make mine, great product and price.  As to the damage, I don't
know.  Someone had posted the name of a company in GA that had access to
parts, but when I contacted them, they said they couldn't help me (was
looking for bearings and seals)
It scares me to think that from the description, this is just a bunch of
spare parts.  Seems damn expensive to me.

I have asked a couple of times recently what a good condition Koenig is
worth with out any replies yet.  If a broken one is worth 700, what is one
in perfect condition worth?
I love my winch, but I have a noticable drag on the engine when the drive
shaft is installed.  If I could "exchange" the koenig for a new warn 12000 I
would do it in a second.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 20:59:42 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Body "Rubbers"

TerAnn writes: <<What is it about series owners that a large number of
people immediately
> start thinking of coming up with a hack that kinda might kinda work as
> long as you don' want it to be pretty.<<<

'cos we're cheap?

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

------------------------------

Date: 14 May 2001 14:56:44 PDT
From: Casey McMullen <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Pertronix timing

The lures of better performance, more efficiency and less trouble got to me. 
I broke down and got a pertronix system for my 2.25.  The install was a breeze
(after realizing the + - leads were reversed on the coil) and it instantly
sounded much better at idle.  My dizzy shaft has a bit of wobble which must
not matter much to a magnet & hall sensor.  Also idle vacuum went from 19-20
up to 21-22.

Problems have arisen though.  As hard as I try to set the timing by ear, it
just won't go.  I turn the dizzy a little bit and it starts pre-igniting, turn
it the other way and there is major loss of power.  It settled at an un-happy
medium where it only pings with my foot all the way down (WOT), and the power
loss isn't so terrible.  With points, it would cruise at 65, now it won't
break 55.  Should I try messing with the little knurled knob on the vacuum
advance?  I've fiddled with it in the past (w/points) and never noticed much
difference.  Is my dizzy shot?  Cap and rotor are new, wires and coil 2 months
old, plugs gapped and looking good.

Any ideas from the esteemed list?
Casey

____________________________________________________________________
Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 22:03:49 -0400
From: Stephen West-Fisher <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Solex Rebuilt and Leaking Problem

RON WARD wrote:
> 
> OK, how do I know it needs adjusting?

> Bend it.

Measure down from the surface of the casing down to the fuel. 5/8" +-
1/8".

The manuals can be a bit difficult to find stuff in, measurements like
these, torque values, etc. are often at the very back of the section,
not the very front like most other manuals.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 16:04:43 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: overrider q.

How far above the bumper do overriders sit?  It looks like about 2" in
the photos.  I just dropped my bumper and some wrecked bumpers (though
it's not really clear at first glance which are or aren't the "wrecked"
ones) at the welders for him to clean up and put overriders on, and I'm
wondering how far up he should mount 'em.

tia,
bill

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 17:03:56 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #375

You have to take yourself off. 
http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi

James Schenck wrote:
> 
> PLEASE take me off of this mailing list i am getting hounded from my
> boss for getting this!

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 18:57:54 -0400
From: "Lee Jones" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Carb problems on 109 ex military SIII

AFAIK you take the two body halves and use a plate glass with either a
polishing compound or a sheet of very fine sandpaper and rub your heart out
until the casing halves are flat so they will get a good seal.  The plate
glass serves to give you a perfectly (as possible) flat plane to polish the
carb halves on.

Lee

- -----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
Behalf Of Ross Maylor
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2001 12:47 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Carb problems on 109 ex military SIII

I sent this message previously and got no response so either you guys are
dead or nobody gives a rats arse.
Installed new Zenith 361v carb to replace old one that was worn and leaking
gas past the O ring seal into the engine resulting in rough-rich running and
no idle no matter how much adjustments were made. The new carb is better but
suffers from the same problem. A thicker O ring helped only slightly. I read
on a LR web site a brief mention of glass plate grinding that may offer help
but no details of this were provided. Can any one expand on this?

Also is there a method of search the list archives for specific information?

Regards
Ross

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 17:29:23 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: whats a broken koenig worth

Any decent bearing supply shop should be able to get bearings and seals.
There is one here in Denver that will bend over backwards to find what
you are looking for.

Hope Peter wrote:
>  Someone had posted the name of a company in GA that had access to
> parts, but when I contacted them, they said they couldn't help me (was
> looking for bearings and seals)
> It scares me to think that from the description, this is just a bunch of
> spare parts. 
- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 20:58:19 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: Carb problems on 109 ex military SIII

seems the info on the Zenith is gone away from there.
John

Ross Maylor wrote:
> 
> John,
> Thanks for the lead. I searched and read and searched....however no info on
> the subject of zenith carbs that I could find. Any other leads would be
> appreciated.
> Thanks,
>  Ross Maylor
> Calgary

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 20:28:25 -0400
From: "Mark  Love" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Pertronix timing

Casey, on the last Pertronix i worked on the installer used screws that were too long and locked the
point plate in position i.e. no vacuum advance. I don't know if these screws came with the Pertronix
or not, but shortening the screws and re-timing made a world of difference.
Mark Love

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 19:38:55 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Pertronix timing

On 14 May 2001, Casey McMullen wrote:

:The lures of better performance, more efficiency and less trouble got to me.
:I broke down and got a pertronix system for my 2.25.  The install was a breeze
:(after realizing the + - leads were reversed on the coil) and it instantly
:sounded much better at idle.  My dizzy shaft has a bit of wobble which must
:not matter much to a magnet & hall sensor.  Also idle vacuum went from 19-20
:up to 21-22.
:
:Problems have arisen though.  As hard as I try to set the timing by ear, it
:just won't go.  I turn the dizzy a little bit and it starts pre-igniting, turn

Use a timing light, or statically time it tow what the book recommends, and
see what happens.  I'd also check that you've not knocked off the vaccum
advance hose, and that the bits of pertronix inside the cap aren't blocking,
or hung up on anything.  Either of these would cause too little advance,
which would cause your lack of power problems.  Check the timing with a
light at speed and see what it is.  I think there's a spec in the shop
manual.  If there's not, post what you get, and I'm sure someone will tell
you what it should be.

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 14:47:55 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: whats a broken koenig worth

I've seen a couple of complete working koenig winches offered at from 
$700-$1,000.  Don't know whether they sold or what they actually sold for.

Personally, I'd want an abused, partial, broken windlass to be given to me.  
The work involved in getting this one fixed sounds like a major operation.  
If you don't have a buddy who'll do the machine work for beer, you could be 
into a lot of bucks just to get all the parts that you need.  Disassembly, 
time spent rustling up parts, rebuilding the winch, head scratching, and it 
could be cheaper to buy a complete Rover with the winch installed.

Aloha
Peter

>From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: [email-masked]
>Subject: Re: LRO: Re: whats a broken koenig worth
>Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 17:29:23 -0600
>
>Any decent bearing supply shop should be able to get bearings and seals.
>There is one here in Denver that will bend over backwards to find what
>you are looking for.
>
>Hope Peter wrote:
> >  Someone had posted the name of a company in GA that had access to
> > parts, but when I contacted them, they said they couldn't help me (was
> > looking for bearings and seals)
> > It scares me to think that from the description, this is just a bunch of
> > spare parts.
>--
>Jim Hall
>1966 88" Elephant Chaser
>http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
>"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
>with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: 14 May 2001 17:59:32 PDT
From: Casey McMullen <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [Re: LRO: Pertronix timing]

Mark and David,
Good ideas both of you.  I'll check things out when I get home tonight (I'm on
pacific time).

Thanks,
Casey

David Scheidt <[email-masked]> wrote:
> On 14 May 2001, Casey McMullen wrote:
> 
> :The lures of better performance, more efficiency and less trouble got to
me.
> :I broke down and got a pertronix system for my 2.25.  The install was a
breeze
> :(after realizing the + - leads were reversed on the coil) and it instantly
> :sounded much better at idle.  My dizzy shaft has a bit of wobble which
must
> :not matter much to a magnet & hall sensor.  Also idle vacuum went from
19-20
> :up to 21-22.
> :
> :Problems have arisen though.  As hard as I try to set the timing by ear,
it
> :just won't go.  I turn the dizzy a little bit and it starts pre-igniting,
turn
> 
> Use a timing light, or statically time it tow what the book recommends, and
> see what happens.  I'd also check that you've not knocked off the vaccum
> advance hose, and that the bits of pertronix inside the cap aren't
blocking,
> or hung up on anything.  Either of these would cause too little advance,
> which would cause your lack of power problems.  Check the timing with a
> light at speed and see what it is.  I think there's a spec in the shop
> manual.  If there's not, post what you get, and I'm sure someone will tell
> you what it should be.
> 
> -- 
> [email-masked]
> Bipedalism is only a fad.
> 

____________________________________________________________________
Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 12:19:07 -0700
From: Paul Quin <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: whats a broken koenig worth

Sounds like about $600.00 too much.  $700.00 would be a lot for one in
working order.

As a comparison, I paid $450.00 Canadian ($300.00 US) for a complete PTO
driven Koenig minus one drive shaft and the control lever.  

This was from a well know LR parts house, not a private sale.

Paul Quin
Victoria, BC

	-----Original Message-----
	From:	SJH [SMTP:[email-masked]]
	Sent:	Monday, May 14, 2001 11:47 AM
	To:	[email-masked]
	Subject:	LRO: whats a broken koenig worth

		I need a bit of advice from the winch-wise.  Please reply
off-line, as I   
	am in digest mode.

		Assume you know the following about this winch.  Asking
price is near   
	$700.  What would you pay for it, knowing you will have to pay to
ship it   
	1000 miles.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 18:50:29 -0700
From: "C. Marin Faure" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Zenith 361V

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 10:26:59 -0600
From: "Ross Maylor" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Zenith 361V

>I just returned to the list and was wondering if there was a way to search
the archives other than weeding through every posting.
I am having trouble with my new zenith 361v carb that I installed to replace
the old one that was warn and leaking gas past the O ring. The new carb is
doing the same thing and no matter how big you make the O ring it still lets
to much gas through.  Some of the locals say this is a common problem with
Zenith quality. Is there a fix?

You will get 4,351 answers to your question, all saying the same thing.  The
problem with your Zenith (both of them) is NOT the 0-ring gasket, but the
fact that the body has warped.  The warp allows fuel to flow past the joint
gasket and down a passage where it isn't supposed to go.  The cure has been
described in detail many times here, and at least one person will post it
again for you, I'm sure.

Basically, you have to first heat treat the two carburetor halves, which
the manufacturer did not do for some reason (probably too busy enjoying
gammon and Guiness down at the local- can't blame them, really).  This
involves putting the carburetor halves in your kitchen oven for specified
times at specified temperatures.  Once this has been done, you "grind" the
mating surfaces of the carburetor halves flat using a piece of heavy plate
glass and the appropriate grit paper.  Then reassemble using a new gasket
set, and if you did all this correctly, no more problem.  There's an unused
passage some people say you should plug up with a bit of rubber (the
passage the fuel goes down when the body warps), but if you've done the
other stuff correctly, there's no need to plug this passage, although
there's no harm in doing so if you want to.  There's at leat one web site
that describes the process in detail, but I don't know the URL.

I had to figure all this out on my own back in the early 1970s.  I, too,
thought the problem was the O-ring, but I eventually discovered the problem
was the warp.  I didn't know about the heat treating thing, so I replaced
the carburetor, which worked for a few years, and then when it warped, too,
I switched to a Rochester.  The Rochester had more disadvantages than
advantages, so after a few years, I switched back to a new Zenith.  Either
luck, the carburetor god, the fact that the local ran out of gammon and
Guiness the day this carburetor was manufactured, or the custom-made clamp
I installed to put compression on the back of the carburetor has kept this
particular Zenith from warping for the last twenty years.  It has not
needed to be heat treated or ground flat.  At least, not yet.....

But the chances are 99.999999999 percent that your problem is the famous
Zenith Warp (they should name a dance after this thing), not the O-ring.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #376
**********************************************