Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #375

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 09:59:29 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *  Monday, May 14 2001  Volume 01 : Number 375

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 12:02:35 -0400
From: "James G.Wolf" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Body "Rubbers"

I have been redoing the rear tub on the 109 SW and the rubber bits between
the supports and the frame are toast (crumbly and hard). What
has anyone used to replace them with? Are they still avalible? Would our
local auto parts store have a suitable replacement material?

While I am asking are the push and turn window locks still avalible?
Couldn't find either of these in the RN or BP catalogues.

Thanks
Jim Wolf

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 23:29:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Body "Rubbers"

On Sat, 12 May 2001, James G.Wolf wrote:

:I have been redoing the rear tub on the 109 SW and the rubber bits between
:the supports and the frame are toast (crumbly and hard). What
:has anyone used to replace them with? Are they still avalible? Would our
:local auto parts store have a suitable replacement material?
:
:While I am asking are the push and turn window locks still avalible?
:Couldn't find either of these in the RN or BP catalogues.

The Rovers North catalog I've got handy (I think it's the current one,
even) lists the door lock as part 332435, $12.50 on page 57.   This jives
with my parts manual, plate 07 83, item 20.  
I've no idea about the body mounting bits.  It's worth calling your favorite
suppliers and asking.  

David
- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 20:29:59 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Solex Rebuilt and Leaking Problem

OK, how do I know it needs adjusting?

>>> [email-masked] 05/11/01 19:02 PM >>>
RON WARD wrote:
> 
> How is the float adjusted?
> 

Bend it.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 20:32:41 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Keeping the heat out and letting the sun in!

Just get goggles and a tarp for when it rains.

I used Dynamat sound deadening and heat shield material for some portions of the engine compartment and under the bonnet to reduce heat.  Cheaper copies of this stuff can be found at JC Whitney.  Apply it to the underside of the body and footwells and as much as you can on the bulkhead with the aluminum side facing the heat source.

>>> [email-masked] 05/11/01 20:23 PM >>>

The warm weather has be looking at my rover in a whole new light. After a 
cold winter (I got the Series III in October) I thought the inside was cold. 
After a hot day and driving I cant believe how much heat is coming in from 
the front and bottom of the footwells! Any ideas on just how to keep this 
heat out? The carpets are aftermarket (or should I say 'After office' as they 
look like someones office rubber mat cut to fit sloppily) but I didnt think 
just laying down new carpets would do it. (or would it?) I DID apply a new 
heat sheild on the exhaust manifold and change to a summer thermostat.

Now for the other biggie - anyone have some leads on a good used soft top? 
I'd love to take the top off for the summer but the occasional downpour and 
the fact that the Rover is my only transportation has me thinking I'd better 
get SOME way to drive if it starts to rain. 

Thanks All!

- -Nick

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 20:27:09 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Series III engine bay enlargement?

Keith Miller in Hendersonville, NC did this on a nice diesel SIII.  You can find your way to his web site (he sells Series rigs and other imports) through www.thatchedroofgarage.com.  Look for vehicles for sale and a link will appear at the bottom to J and T Automart.  Keith can give you the skinny on his project.

>>> [email-masked] 05/11/01 16:36 PM >>>
Can one mount a Defender radiator mount and hood arrangement on
a Series III truck with the series fenders or do the fenders 
need to be Defender as well? Thinking of more room for a V8...
Thanks
George

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 10:08:32 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions

you write> >>Why do the Brit's drive on the left?<<
originally to keep the sword hand free and, because it was easier to swipe
with a sword on the right, rather than across the body to the left.
 Europe only changed when Napoleon was trying to change as much as possible
(such as weights and measurements) as part of his economic war on the
British.
 America changed at the same time 'cos they were happy to go along with
anything anti-British...
 when the US motor car industry got going, followed by the European,
left-hand drive just seemed to make more sense because they drove on the
right and many other countries changed as they began to buy cars.
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 08:29:44 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions

Since the Romans fought on foot that doesn't work out.
John and Muddy.

Lee Jones wrote:
> 
> I had heard that it was because the Romans could drive on the left, hold the
> reins in their left hand and use their swords on the heathen Brits with
> their right hand..... :-)
> 
> Lee
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
> Behalf Of Paul Quin
> Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2001 5:22 PM
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions
> 
> > >>Why do the Brit's drive on the left?<<
> > Because it's SAFER ! Research has been done to show that because the
> > majority of people are right-handed they have better control of a steering
> > wheel if they use their right hand during gear changing etc. Driving on
> the
> > right would mean left hand on the wheel during gear changing which is not
> as
> > good control wise.
> 
> This is good logic, but you all were driving (horses) on the left a century
> before it was necessary to change gears...   There was a rumour that it
> actually dates back to Roman times, but I can't remember the details...
> 
> Paul in Victoria (Canada so I'm not a yank!!)  :-)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 08:32:04 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: Body "Rubbers"

side walls from bias ply tires works.
Joghn and Muddy

"James G.Wolf" wrote:
> 
> I have been redoing the rear tub on the 109 SW and the rubber bits between
> the supports and the frame are toast (crumbly and hard). What
> has anyone used to replace them with? Are they still avalible? Would our
> local auto parts store have a suitable replacement material?
> 
> While I am asking are the push and turn window locks still avalible?
> Couldn't find either of these in the RN or BP catalogues.
> 
> Thanks
> Jim Wolf

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 07:54:07 -0400
From: "Lee Jones" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: RE: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions

Why?  Did their chariots not pass the MOT?

Lee

- -----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
Behalf Of John Cranfield
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 7:30 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions

Since the Romans fought on foot that doesn't work out.
John and Muddy.

Lee Jones wrote:
>
> I had heard that it was because the Romans could drive on the left, hold
the
> reins in their left hand and use their swords on the heathen Brits with
> their right hand..... :-)
>
> Lee
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
> Behalf Of Paul Quin
> Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2001 5:22 PM
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions
>
> > >>Why do the Brit's drive on the left?<<
> > Because it's SAFER ! Research has been done to show that because the
> > majority of people are right-handed they have better control of a
steering
> > wheel if they use their right hand during gear changing etc. Driving on
> the
> > right would mean left hand on the wheel during gear changing which is
not
> as
> > good control wise.
>
> This is good logic, but you all were driving (horses) on the left a
century
> before it was necessary to change gears...   There was a rumour that it
> actually dates back to Roman times, but I can't remember the details...
>
> Paul in Victoria (Canada so I'm not a yank!!)  :-)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 08:09:55 -0400
From: "d.h.lowe" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions

The spiral staircases in ye olde castles were wound the way they were for the
same reasons. If you were attacking and trying to climb the stair it was
clockwise which made it awkward if your sword was in your right hand. If you
were defending  it was anticlockwise and you could swing the sword much easier.

The centre steer of the prototype Series One was an attempt to emulate a
tractor. Walking around a tractor every time you wanted to get in the seat
would be a pain in the seat (literally).
For those not in North America, yesterday was SWMBO day and everyone this
weekend is busy cleaning and doing the dishes or whatever!!! Hang on to those
brownie points..
Dave

Frank Elson wrote:

> you write> >>Why do the Brit's drive on the left?<<
> originally to keep the sword hand free and, because it was easier to swipe
> with a sword on the right, rather than across the body to the left.
>  Europe only changed when Napoleon was trying to change as much as possible
> (such as weights and measurements) as part of his economic war on the
> British.
>  America changed at the same time 'cos they were happy to go along with
> anything anti-British...
>  when the US motor car industry got going, followed by the European,
> left-hand drive just seemed to make more sense because they drove on the
> right and many other countries changed as they began to buy cars.
> Best Cheers
>
> Frank
>     +--+--+--+
>      I !__|  [_]|_\___
>      I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
>      "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 09:31:30 -0500
From: "Garrick Olsen" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Timing chain cover

I can't get the bl**dy thing off!

I have the pulley off (nice groove in the shaft.  Is that a problem?) and 
the bolts all around and the oil pan off.  The front cover to the water pump 
is off, too.  Some of the water pump cover studs are in place and seem to be 
fused.

There are two threaded ends poking out of the timing chain cover: one at the 
bottom left facing left and one at the bottom right facing forward.  What 
are these for?  Winch drive mounting?

So far I have tried:
banging around with a hammer and mallet.
Prying between the water pump and head.
prying between the gen bracket and the strange threaded end pointing left.
Sprayed with liquid wrench.

What works?

- -Rik
1960 SWB SW

It seems like there are two seasons:  storage and repair.
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 11:12:49 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions

A couple of thoughts:

1.  Ships under international rules, US inland, Intracoastal and everywhere 
else pass port to port (i.e., they drive on the right).  Even on the River 
Thames, eh?  Wonder why?

2.  In Southern Africa, notwithstanding their British heritage, they tend to 
drive in the middle....  You there Paul? :-)

Ed Bailey
66 S2A SWB (Millennium Falcon)
Somewhere in East Tennessee

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 01 08:25:24 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Body "Rubbers"

>I have been redoing the rear tub on the 109 SW and the rubber bits between
>the supports and the frame are toast (crumbly and hard). What
>has anyone used to replace them with? Are they still avalible?

In '98 when I had the Green Rover repainted and asembled the top I got 
new rubber that goes between the roof and sides and between the sides and 
body.  I also got new rubber for the top & bottom of the windscreen.  I 
got the rubber sections from BP.  
>
>While I am asking are the push and turn window locks still avalible?

There are always bits in bins that never saeem to make it into 
catalogues.  Ring them up and ask.  When I recently replaced my rear 
sliding windows and tracks I got new lock sliders for the installation.

>Couldn't find either of these in the RN or BP catalogues.

I've orderd parts from both companies that were not in their catalogues.

TeriAnn         
                      http://www.overlander.net

  The world's most complete set of links connecting Rover 4X4 owners
  with Rover parts, service, accessory & sales companies world wide.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 17:47:48 +0200
From: Harald Hansen <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Frameover Part III

As some might remember, as was preparing a frameover a few weeks ago.  In
the meantime I was offered a 1975 109" SW, which looked rather tatty, but
with excellent condition mechanically.  So I bought it and I'm fixing it up
visually to use.  The rusted-out 109" will probably go to someone with the
time and facilities to swap the frame.

I just want to thank all of you who answered my questions a few weeks ago.

BTW, I swapped roofs on the 109s a couple of days ago.  The "new" one is
camoflaged, as it has been in use by the Army (but it's civilian spec).  So
now the old 109" has a blue body and camoflaged roof, sort of like a WWII
fighter bomber.  :)

Regards,
Harald

- -- 
Harald Hansen                           #========#       1976 Land Rover
SW engineer, strategy gamer, LR owner   |___|__|__\___   Series III 109"
E-mail: harald74@online[DOT]no          |  _|  |   |_ |}  Station Wagon
        harald.hansen@kongsberg[DOT]com ""(_)""""""(_)"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 10:26:59 -0600
From: "Ross Maylor" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Zenith 361V

Hi guys,
I just returned to the list and was wondering if there was a way to search
the archives other than weeding through every posting.
I am having trouble with my new zenith 361v carb that I installed to replace
the old one that was warn and leaking gas past the O ring. The new carb is
doing the same thing and no matter how big you make the O ring it still lets
to much gas through.
Some of the locals say this is a common problem with Zenith quality. Is
there a fix?

Thanks
Ross

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 13:25:05 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Timing chain cover

In a message dated 5/13/2001 10:33:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

<< I have the pulley off (nice groove in the shaft.  Is that a problem?) and 
 the bolts all around and the oil pan off.  The front cover to the water pump 
 is off, too.  Some of the water pump cover studs are in place and seem to be 
 fused. >>

Check along the front edge of the oil pan.  There are 2 or 3 (maybe 4) bolts 
along here into the front cover.

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 18:37:02 +0100
From: Paul <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: 2 Land Rover related questions

In article <[email-masked]>,  wrote:
> Even on the River 
> Thames, eh?
No. Keep left is in force.

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 07:50:46 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Timing chain cover

The groove in the pulley, caused by wear from the oil seal, can be a 
problem.  The new seal may not be able to seal over this irregularity. Only 
way to find out is to install it and see.  You can try the trick of seating 
the seal at a slightly different position in the housing hoping it won't 
ride in the detent.  When I inquired a couple of years ago, there wasn't a 
speedy sleeve for this pulley.  Ended up buying an aftermarket pulley at 
something like $60 from BP.  OEM pulley was way more expensive.  Your 
choice, take the chance on a leak from reusing it or replacing it.  I 
elected to change it as changing the seals on my transfer case output 
shafts, which were grooved, didn't cure the leaking from there.  As I 
recall, changing the seals didn't change the rate of leakage much at all.  
The leakage is relatively minimal, however, so I haven't put speedy sleeves 
on these shafts.

Aloha
Peter

>From: "Garrick Olsen" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: [email-masked], [email-masked]
>Subject: LRO: Timing chain cover
>Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 09:31:30 -0500
>
>I can't get the bl**dy thing off!
>
>I have the pulley off (nice groove in the shaft.  Is that a problem?) and
>the bolts all around and the oil pan off.  The front cover to the water 
>pump
>is off, too.  Some of the water pump cover studs are in place and seem to 
>be
>fused.
>
>There are two threaded ends poking out of the timing chain cover: one at 
>the
>bottom left facing left and one at the bottom right facing forward.  What
>are these for?  Winch drive mounting?
>
>So far I have tried:
>banging around with a hammer and mallet.
>Prying between the water pump and head.
>prying between the gen bracket and the strange threaded end pointing left.
>Sprayed with liquid wrench.
>
>What works?
>
>-Rik
>1960 SWB SW
>
>It seems like there are two seasons:  storage and repair.
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 08:16:14 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions

Better not tell Hollywood that, Ben Hur wouldn't have been the movie it was 
without the chariot race.  Chariots were part of the Roman army's equipment 
though not as big part as they were in more Easterly armies.

Aloha
Peter

>From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: [email-masked]
>Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions
>Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 08:29:44 -0300
>
>Since the Romans fought on foot that doesn't work out.
>John and Muddy.
>
>Lee Jones wrote:
> >
> > I had heard that it was because the Romans could drive on the left, hold 
>the
> > reins in their left hand and use their swords on the heathen Brits with
> > their right hand..... :-)
> >
> > Lee
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
> > Behalf Of Paul Quin
> > Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2001 5:22 PM
> > To: [email-masked]
> > Subject: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions
> >
> > > >>Why do the Brit's drive on the left?<<
> > > Because it's SAFER ! Research has been done to show that because the
> > > majority of people are right-handed they have better control of a 
>steering
> > > wheel if they use their right hand during gear changing etc. Driving 
>on
> > the
> > > right would mean left hand on the wheel during gear changing which is 
>not
> > as
> > > good control wise.
> >
> > This is good logic, but you all were driving (horses) on the left a 
>century
> > before it was necessary to change gears...   There was a rumour that it
> > actually dates back to Roman times, but I can't remember the details...
> >
> > Paul in Victoria (Canada so I'm not a yank!!)  :-)

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 20:52:40 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions

[email-masked] wrote:
 
> 2.  In Southern Africa, notwithstanding their British heritage, they tend to
> drive in the middle....  You there Paul? :-)

<koff> now that's hardly fair, Ed, where there are proper roads with
both a left and a right lane, we mostly choose the left one... or the
right one, whichever has the least potholes :-{)}

Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 09:32:06 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions

We've got a road that goes across the valley between Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea 
called Saddle Road.  The road was originally built by the military in WWII 
and probably hasn't been resurfaced since it was paved sometime in the last 
millenium.  My son used to describe it as a one lane road with patches along 
both sides.  Only way to drive this road is in the center until forced to 
give way to oncoming traffic.  BIG  problem is a lot of Yahoos in lifted, 
big wheel trucks insist on taking the center lane even around blind turns.  
The only relatively safe time to take the road is at night when you can see 
the oncoming headlights before the vehicle.  The lights at least encourage 
the Yahoos to consider moving over.  To make it more interesting, about a 
1/4 of the road, the worst quarter, is normally embedded in the clouds so 
visibility is cut to a few hundred feet and the surface slippery.

Another local trait that increases excitement is the refusal to turn on 
headlights until an hour after sunset or midnight, which ever comes last.  
Don't know why our native born think turning on the lights, to be seen, is a 
sign of a lack of testosterone.  Its not that they don't realize a need as 
they often turn on their parking lights.  Now parking lights are parking 
lights, a detent on the switch to keep you from getting rammed in the rear 
while stopped.  They do precious little to increase your visibility to 
oncoming vehicles.  I've even had helpful souls flash their lights on and 
off to tell me that my lights are on.  This is often when the wipers are on 
max fast (not in a Rover, obviously) and visibility down to a few feet in 
driving rain.  Does it ever occur to them that the reason they knew I was 
there because they saw headlights long before they could see the car??

Needless to say the accident rate is very high and fatalities per accident 
even higher.

Aloha
Peter

> > 2.  In Southern Africa, notwithstanding their British heritage, they 
>tend to
> > drive in the middle....  You there Paul? :-)
>
><koff> now that's hardly fair, Ed, where there are proper roads with
>both a left and a right lane, we mostly choose the left one... or the
>right one, whichever has the least potholes :-{)}
>
>Regards
>Paul Oxley
>AfricanAdrenalin.com

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 16:50:56 -0500
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: keep right

"Paul Quin" <[email-masked]>

>This is good logic, but you all were driving (horses) on the left a century
>before it was necessary to change gears...   There was a rumour that it
>actually dates back to Roman times, but I can't remember the details...

Older, actually...ancient Greece or even before.  It was habit when riding
on horseback to pass others on the left, that is, right side to right side.
 As most people were right handed, your sword hand was closer to a
potential adversary.

A papal ruling late in the first millenium decreed that all pilgrims to
Rome kept left when passing others.  Of course, the French *had* to do
things differently: legislation passed soon after the Revolution decreed
that all drive/ride on the right....

The reason for America's driving on the right is a bit more murky, but
principally, it was the use of heavy Connestoga freight wagons, versus the
British habit of using posthillion (sp??) riders to guide teams of horses.
The teamsters - again, mostly right handed - would hold the reins in the
right.  To use the whip and not have it tangle with the load behind, they
would have to sit on the left.  That also enabled the driver to gauge the
distance to the opposing wagon's hubs, so they wouldn't hit.

I don't think there was any regulation as to which side to drive in the US
until early in the 20th century....

BTW, Cigars smoked by wagon drivers were the origin of the term 'stogie'....

Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is legendary-----*
  |                                                    |
  |              A. P. "Sandy" Grice                   |
  |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
  |  (757)423-4898  (757)622-7054  FAX (757)622-7056   |
  |                                                    |
  *----1972 Series III 88"----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 19:05:26 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions

and, as the song once said, In Malta they drive in the shade!
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 4:12 PM
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions

> A couple of thoughts:
>
> 1.  Ships under international rules, US inland, Intracoastal and
everywhere
> else pass port to port (i.e., they drive on the right).  Even on the River
> Thames, eh?  Wonder why?
>
> 2.  In Southern Africa, notwithstanding their British heritage, they tend
to
> drive in the middle....  You there Paul? :-)
>
> Ed Bailey
> 66 S2A SWB (Millennium Falcon)
> Somewhere in East Tennessee
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 18:08:44 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Timing chain cover

Or you can try the trick that I did and put 2 seals in, with each one
riding in a different place than the stock seal. I used a CR 18555 and a
CR 18558. CR= Chicago Rawhide. The 18558 is thinner than the 18555, 
which are both thinner than the stock seal.

Peter Ogilvie wrote:
> 
> The groove in the pulley, caused by wear from the oil seal, can be a
> problem.  The new seal may not be able to seal over this irregularity. Only
> way to find out is to install it and see.  You can try the trick of seating
> the seal at a slightly different position in the housing hoping it won't
> ride in the detent.  When I inquired a couple of years ago, there wasn't a
> speedy sleeve for this pulley.  Ended up buying an aftermarket pulley at
> something like $60 from BP.  OEM pulley was way more expensive.  Your
> choice, take the chance on a leak from reusing it or replacing it.  I
> elected to change it as changing the seals on my transfer case output
> shafts, which were grooved, didn't cure the leaking from there.  As I
> recall, changing the seals didn't change the rate of leakage much at all.
> The leakage is relatively minimal, however, so I haven't put speedy sleeves
> on these shafts.
> 
> Aloha
> Peter

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 19:14:49 -0400
From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: distributors

2...I have a collection of Lucas distributors.  If you hold one
in your hand some have the vacuum connection on the left (left
handed) and some have it on the right (right handed).  All my
running Rovers have left handed ones.  What do the right handed
ones fit?  Are some of the parts interchangeable and where would
I find that information?

George in Auburn

  The primary difference is the direction of rotation, the majority of
the 25D4 model distributors are designed for clockwise rotation. The Land
Rover is fitted with a clockwise rotation distributor.  (Before you write
and tell me I am wrong, think about it!) Consequently I do not believe
that any of the parts are interchangeable except the cap.

Regards from Western New York State

  Bill Leacock.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 23:38:43 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Re:Sagging springs, why.

In a message dated 4/27/01 6:45:43 PM, [email-masked] writes:

<< My sincere apologies to Bill Davis at Great basin Rovers for my being a 
PITA. 
 If I'd known the problem was with the "experienced" spring shop in the first 
place, it would have saved a lot of grief for both of us.  Bill went the 
extra distance to help me try to solve the problem. >>

Bob
    Now I know why I got the second set of springs returned un-installed! I 
was thinking you were losing it but didn't have the time to contact you to 
find out what was going on.
    You weren't a PITA but I have to admit selling suspension components can 
be. Land Rover considered a 1" variation in spring height to be within spec 
but try telling that to someone that just spent $500 on a new suspension. I 
wouldn't consider it acceptable so I don't expect you to either.
    Leaf springs are a fairly crude technology - design and manufacturing, so 
some variations are normal. We match up all of the springs we send out by 
setting them on the shop floor and comparing heights etc.   
    We still sell parabolic springs but have to admit we have de-emphasized 
them a bit. We're not sure we have ever made a dime selling them!

Bill
GBR

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 22:44:48 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: ignition bits wanted

Hi everybody.  My frameover is going incredibly well (see other e-mail w/
that subject line).  But I realized I might as well return Mrs. M. to
standard ignition wiring configuration (prev. owner had some kind of
hokey generic ignition switch and key in there--no push button)

Soooo, does anyone have a parts rover w/ an ignition/headlamp switch
(that works), a key (that fits), and a starter button sitting on it? 
(that they wouldn't mind selling and mailing to me).

Bill

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 23:01:42 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Mrs. Merdle's new frame (looooong)

Hey all,
The frameover is going quite well.  I've had tons of incredible help from
the local series crowd, incl. lro listers Jim Hall, Mitch Stockdale,
Ralph Bradt, and Dave Gomes.  

I've hosted two frameover parties, and all these guys and some others
attended both.  I don't know how on earth I would've gotten where I am
w/o the incredibly generous (and knowledgeable) help from these folks.

Before the first party, I had the wings, bonnet, windscreen, roof, doors
and breakfast off.  

The day of the first party everyone showed up in the morning (8 folks
plus me working at the day's peak) and unleashed generators, compressors,
and welders--made quite a racket.  Total destructive chaos as we tore the
old one apart, put the new chassis on the axles and springs, cut up and
repaired the bulkhead (Jim and Dave did artwork in this dept), mounted
the tranny, then welded the mounts for the Pontiac 151 on the new
chassis.

Then I ran around all over the state getting stuff sandblasted,
galvanized, and getting to know the folks at the local industrial
fastener place quite well.  I think I also did some stuff to the truck,
but I don't know what. 

Five faithful friends (nice alliteration, eh?) showed up yesterday and we
commenced reassembly.  We got the engine in and the galvanized bulkhead,
breakfast, and t-pieces on the chassis.  The tub (with freshly galvanized
steel supports underneath) went on there at some point.  The new wiring
harness also ended up mostly connected.  A day of soldering, riveting,
crimping, and cursing was enjoyed by me, and I think by all.  I drove
Dave's G-wagen to the store for more brake lines (he is an artiste at
flaring and routing brake/clutch lines--I cry when I look at these) and
it executed a wonderful backfire right in the middle of downtown by
several cafes w/ outdoor seating.   Heh heh.

I hung the middle doors (well, half doors--for my summer soft top setup)
after they began their 2-hr. drive home at 10:30 p.m. and found they
didn't line up.  This is after I'd had us bolt and rivet the tub w/o the
rear doors on since there really was no adjustment possible between the
T-pieces and the rear of the chassis.  It was disappointing to find a big
ol' gap behind the right middle door.  

Tonight I was in there cleaning up the floatsam and jetsam and remembered
that T-piece had been slightly bent at the galvanizers' and I thought,
"what if I stick the hi-lift in the middle of that t-piece and jack it up
some?"  It worked wonderfully!  So the door's aligned quite nicely now. 
But I guess the moment of truth will be in Oct. when I put the roof back
on . . .

This week I reckon the floors, wings, seatbox will go in, with bonnet and
windscreen to follow shortly after the wiring's completed, and the front
doors will go on as soon as I drill out the bolts that were galvanized in
situ and re-tap the captive nuts (I had to leave 'em in to locate the
captive nuts).  

Also will install the battery box (a nifty plastic marine battery box
from the local chain auto store for $10) which I'm going to mount under
the seat--taking the old battery mount (cut from engine compt.) to the
welders' tomorrow to have 'em modify it a bit so I can invert it and bolt
it to the frame rail under the seat box, and mount the plastic box to it.

Well, that's the news.  I guess the above explains my relative silence as
of late.

bill

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 23:31:46 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: oops

Forgot to mention fellow lister Tim Czajka, who lives right here in Ft.
Collins.  He was one of the madmen at frameover party number one, but was
in Chicago for party number two.  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 08:24:55 +0100
From: "Steve Mace" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Series III engine bay enlargement?

Craddocks (or is it Paddocks?) do a conversion kit to do this. ISR there's a 
fibreglass bonnet and a few other new panels. See if their sites have any 
more details.

On 11 May 2001, at 15:11, george kase wrote:

> Can one mount a Defender radiator mount and hood arrangement on
> a Series III truck with the series fenders or do the fenders 
> need to be Defender as well? Thinking of more room for a V8...
> Thanks
> George
> 
> 

Steve

1972 SIII LtWt Green
1993 D90 Red
- -------------------------------------
Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: [email-masked]
www: http://www.solwise.co.uk
Tel: 0845 458 4558 (local rate)
Fax: 0845 458 4559
Intl. Fax. +44 1482 621877
- -------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 07:21:10 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions

Get on the phone and find the nearest industrial battery supplier - they
can give you a good battery at a good price and abvoid dealing with teh
AutoZones of the world (who can't spell group 27F on a good day).

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 07:21:42 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Body "Rubbers"

Tyre sidewall bits, perhaps?

               ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 07:39:40 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Speedometer repair help

George, email me at [email-masked] - I wrote that.

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 08:20:30 -0400
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Sighting

Sunday evening about 8:30 pm intersection of Cedar Lane and Rockville
Pike. Red 88 with county stripes, Defender seats and no top. Bearded
gentleman at the wheel ( I thought it was Spenny for a second!! )
Maryland plates. I was on the bike , so I was incognito. Any guesses? 
- -- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 09:45:29 -0400
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Dealing with old cotterpins and other clutch fun

I'm halfway through a clutch swap on my IIa. Overall it's going fairly 
well, considering the history of the truck and the apparant level of 
frustration the PO developed with respect to this particular mechanism. I'm 
down to the clutch release lever, then the bellhousing bolts come off.

I'm having trouble dealing with the cotterpins used in various places, 
primarily with the ones attached to the clutch lever and relay arm. Every 
one of them is rusted in place and brittle, meaning that I can snap the 
heads off and pull then out, then drill the part. Am I missing some 
fundamental Old Car Trick for dealing with these, or is it a fact of life? 
How can I make it easier for myself next time?

Any tips for clutch replacement would be appreciated as well. I'm 
installing a 9.5" clutch and pressure plate, so I know about removing the 
one dowel in the glywheel. The floorboards are out (now THAT was a fight) 
but the seatbox has stayed in place. The relay lever for the clutch is 
still in place because it appears I'd have to drop the gas tank in order to 
remove it - I'm hoping to manouver the tranny around it. I'm going to try 
to support the tranny on a trolley jack - how much does it weigh?

Keith Tanner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 14:25:32 +0200
From: "S. Vels" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Beauraing, Belgium?

On vacation i Belgium several times, i have driven through Beauraing spotting two series rigs that looked lige parts trucks. I wonder if the owner is on this list?

rgds
sv/aurens

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 14:22:18 +0200
From: "S. Vels" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions

Peter Ogilvie wrote:

..about lighting habits.

I was in Turkey this easter. They seem to have very individual lighting
filosophy. Some cars and heavy trucks didn't turn on lights before it was
absolutely nescessary. Others (every third or so) used the high beams all the
time. Some (many) had only one working headlight. Most headlights were not
adjusted.
After driving 1000km in two days, i developed quite a headache. What a vacation
:-)

rgds
sv/aurens

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #375
**********************************************

---

From: James Schenck <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 10:51:19 -0400

PLEASE take me off of this mailing list i am getting hounded from my 
boss for getting this!

---

From: Keith Addison <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 00:24:42 +0900

Hello all

Emerging from lurkdom to ask if anyone knows of another company than 
Lucas that makes starter motors to fit an S3 1973 petrol lightweight 
- preferably a Japanese company (I live in Tokyo now). My *new* Lucas 
starter motor lasted 300 miles!! What a piece of junk. The old one 
was junk (I fixed it six times) but this one's atrocious.

Many thanks

Best wishes

Keith Addison

---

From: "Richard L. Ziegler" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 13:46:14 -0400

CR makes a stainless steel Speedi-Sleeve, that fits our crankshaft at the
pulley position, it is #99192 (diameter 1.916") and use with their oil seal
#481195.  I use Locktite adhesive/sealant #271 to make sure the sleeve stays
in place and no oil leaks between the sleeve and the crankshaft.

As to left hand/right hand connections of the vacuum unit for vacuum
advance/retard of the distributor:  The left-handed connection type was used
on non-pollution controlled L/Rs and the right-handed type was used on
pollution controlled L/Rs (late series IIa starting in '69 and III) to
achieve vacuum retard.

Rich Ziegler, Series L/R mechanic & owner since '63