Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #372

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 10:13:37 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Wednesday, May 9 2001 Volume 01 : Number 372

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 08:25:23 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Solex rebuild underway

So I start off planning to simply remove the worn and leaking accelerator pump assembly off the side of the Solex carb last night.  You know, why complicate things, just replace the diaphragm and leave the rest alone.  I don't know what came over me, but I ended up at 12am this morning with the entire Solex laying in pieces on my work bench.  I carefully noted each piece as I removed the unit so refitting should be a breeze (I actually made notes!).  I already had the RN gasket kit for the Solex and I have replaced each on the unit.  The float is solid and has no holes, the jets are clean and all looks well.  The replacement accelerator pump diaphragm should arrive tomorrow.  One thing I found curious:  as I removed the throttle linkage and cold start cable from the carb assembly before removal I noticed that the vacuum hose from the distributor was tightly fastened to the nipple on the carburetor.  However, this nipple screws into the carb body and had nearly run itself all!
 the way out of the body.  It seems inconceivable to me that any vacuum pressure could have been held by this loose connection.  Upon refit I will tighten that up.  

Could the vacuum or lack thereof contribute to poor performance?

TIA

Ron Ward

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 13:39:36 +0100
From: Ian Stuart <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Solex rebuild underway

On Tuesday 08 May 2001 13:25, you wrote:
> Could the vacuum or lack thereof contribute to poor performance?
no vacuum means no advance on the distributor, which makes any 
acceleration painful....

- -- 
           --==**==--
Ian Stuart - EdINA, DataLibrary, University computing services.
- ---------------------------------
A man depriving some village, somewhere, of a first-class
idiot.
- ---------------------------------
http://lucas.ucs.ed.ac.uk/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 11:16:44 -0400
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: crossed wires 

>>Looked at the dizzy and saw #2 and #3 wires were hooked up wrong!  So
>>much better when they're in their correct spots but the darn thing ran.
>>Amazing little lumps!

>Chris

and "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]> added:

>Yup - they are.

>Reminds me of the time I lost the head gasket between 2 and 3 on Mr.
>Churchill. Remains of it finally blew out on the highway in rush hour
>coming home from Boston. Ran the rest of the way home with it backfiring
>and running like crap but tootled along at 55 MPH....

>Tough little buggers indeed.

That's nothing...I've seen an engine run (poorly) *backwards*.  A friend
had just purchased a junker he was going to break up for parts.  Terminal
frame/bulkhead cancer, while the engine was well and truly knackered,
barely registering any compression.  It was a filthy, crud-encrusted lump,
severly abused by the PO, or rather, series of PO's.  The battery was flat
so we hand-cranked it.  The ignition must've been way advanced, 'cause it
kicked back, fired and continued to run...in reverse!  Exhaust was chuffin'
out the carb an we just stood there in amazement for a minute or so until
whatever 'fuel' it had gave out and it quit.

The same engine was later made to run on *one* cylinder!  We eventually got
it running the right way 'round, but it still didn't sound like it was
firing on all cylinders.  My friend pulled one spark plug wire after
another to isolate the misfire, 'til only one was connected and yet it
still ran....

Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  |                 www.roav.org                      |
  |   (original owner)        (pre-production)        | 
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 11:16:45 -0400
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Makin' the grade

"d.h.lowe" <[email-masked]> wrote:

>DoT standards are a "performance standard". They lay down the minimums and
>maximums and the product has to meet those requirements. They do not specify
>what it has to be made from.

Indeed...but with one exception.  DoT 5 is silicone fluid.  DoT 3 or 4
fluids can be made of whatever, as long as the fluid is up to specs:
specific grvity and boiling point.

To continue with this thread, even the Brits eventually realized that
continued use of natural rubber in brake components was Very A Bad Idea, so
they swapped over to neoprene or somesuch compound.  I'm thinking this was
in the early  to mid-1980's.  Does anyone know when for sure?

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  |                 www.roav.org                      |
  |   (original owner)        (pre-production)        | 
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 08:27:08 -0700
From: "Ford Stephen CFMETR FORN" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [LRO: Re: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? ]

I've had nothing but excellent service from Land Rover Supermarket.

Stephen Ford
Ocean Operations
C/511 Nanoose

- -----Original Message-----
From: Casey McMullen [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 11:27 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [LRO: Re: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? ]

Do you mean Craddocks or Paddocks?  I just placed a big (>$1000) order from
Craddocks and it took forever!  After a week I had to bother them to get a
quote based on the detailed parts/numbers/catalog-prices list I had emailed
and faxed.  Then it took two more weeks for them to say, "Oh yeah, a few
items
are back ordered."  So I said, "Please, I'm in a hurry, send whatever you
have!"  Another week later when I called they said, "Gee, there's no
notation
on this order to send right away, it should go out soon."  It ended up
taking
about a month.  Someone else told me a similar story with Craddocks, next
time
I'll probably go with Paddocks or someone else.  Anyone care to comment on
service level from various UK parts houses?

YMMV,
Casey

"Hope Peter" <[email-masked]> wrote:
> I was going to suggest the above and Cross Country and Craddocks.
> ...
> Paddocks is http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/welcome.htm

____________________________________________________________________
Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 17:49:26 +0100
From: "Steve Mace" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [LRO: Re: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? ]

After many years of spending thousands of pounds with both suppliers I have 
to agree that Craddocks can suffer with being very slow and not letting you 
know what's going on with your order. I ordered a set of LtWt springs from 
them and they were 10 months arriving. 
Generally I've found Paddocks to be faster, cheaper and more friendly on the 
phone and, surprisingly (sexist comment coming up) Paddocks have ladies on 
their telesales lines who seem to know what they're talking about. For the more 
obscure part Craddocks can be better but for general items I always go to 
Paddocks i.e. Try Paddoks first but if they haven't got it then goto Craddocks.

Also.... FYI

Paddocks URL:
http://www.paddockspares.com/

> From: Casey McMullen [mailto:[email-masked]]
> Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 11:27 AM
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: [LRO: Re: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? ]
> 
> 
> Do you mean Craddocks or Paddocks?  I just placed a big (>$1000) order from
> Craddocks and it took forever!  After a week I had to bother them to get a quote
> based on the detailed parts/numbers/catalog-prices list I had emailed and faxed.
>  Then it took two more weeks for them to say, "Oh yeah, a few items are back
> ordered."  So I said, "Please, I'm in a hurry, send whatever you have!"  Another
> week later when I called they said, "Gee, there's no notation on this order to
> send right away, it should go out soon."  It ended up taking about a month. 
> Someone else told me a similar story with Craddocks, next time I'll probably go
> with Paddocks or someone else.  Anyone care to comment on service level from
> various UK parts houses?

Steve

1972 SIII LtWt Green
1993 D90 Red
- -------------------------------------
Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: [email-masked]
www: http://www.solwise.co.uk
Tel: 0845 458 4558 (local rate)
Fax: 0845 458 4559
Intl. Fax. +44 1482 621877
- -------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 10:01:17 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Advise on Range Rover

- --------------001E8CF6043465326153D3D7
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I might be late in on this chat, but $8000 for a 1995 classic LWB is
very cheap.  I am looking for a 95 as well, and am seeing $14000 as the
average for the 3.9 classic and $22,000 for the 4.0 "New shape".  They
are good, but have the same problems as any vehicle.  If you like it get
it...

Mark Pilkington.

[email-masked] wrote:

> Gentlemen:
>       I am looking to buy a Range Rover that is a 1995 LWB, for about
> $8000
> US.
> I hear that some of these years have engine problems, could anyone
> please
> advise me to any precautions to take when buying this vehicle.
>
> Dave
>
> I still have my 65 series II 88 !

- --------------001E8CF6043465326153D3D7
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
I might be late in on this chat, but $8000 for a 1995 classic LWB is very
cheap.&nbsp; I am looking for a 95 as well, and am seeing $14000 as the
average for the 3.9 classic and $22,000 for the 4.0 "New shape".&nbsp;
They are good, but have the same problems as any vehicle.&nbsp; If you
like it get it...
<p>Mark Pilkington.
<p>[email-masked] wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>Gentlemen:</font></font>
<br><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
I am looking to buy a Range Rover that is a 1995 LWB, for about $8000</font></font>
<br><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>US.</font></font>
<br><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>I hear that some of these
years have engine problems, could anyone please</font></font>
<br><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>advise me to any precautions
to take when buying this vehicle.</font></font>
<p><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>Dave</font></font>
<p><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>I still have my 65 series
II 88 !</font></font></blockquote>
</html>

- --------------001E8CF6043465326153D3D7--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 13:05:10 -0400 
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Re: Peirce WEbber manifold

How about doing away with the studs/bolts completely and brazing in a piece
of plate. At the same time the flow path for the exhaust could be smoothed.
No going back of course but manifolds are not unobtainable.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Kirk Hillman [SMTP:[email-masked]]
> Sent:	Monday, May 07, 2001 10:11 PM
> To:	[email-masked]
> Subject:	LRO: Re: Peirce WEbber manifold
> 
> Bill,
>     Right you are about there not being enough room.  Your idea about the
> bolts is ideal.  I just can't get the darn studs out. 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 19:21:37 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [LRO:Craddocks

Agree with Steves comments re: Craddocks and Paddocks.  Thing I like about
Craddocks is the surplus stuff.  See, I am a cheep cheep cheep bastard.  Why
buy it if I can make it has always been my attitude.  If I have to buy, then
I try to find used.  If that doesn't work then new it is.  If I have to wait
a month to save a buck, sounds good to me.  Prior to getting the big mudders
I was up to about 3500 total spent on the project (base vehicle with all the
extras it had, frame, bumpers, sliders, roll cage, body parts, suspension,
axles and brakes).  This got me on the road.  Now you may be thinking, "Pete
look where your miserly ways got you with the trainy", but I did get new
rover gears from LRM.  Didn't use the used parts I had located.  Decided it
wasn't worth it to skimp in this area.  So either I got a bad part, or f-ed
it up myself.

Pete

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 19:32:53 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: RE: Re: Peirce WEbber manifold

> How about doing away with the studs/bolts completely and brazing in a
piece
> of plate. At the same time the flow path for the exhaust could be
smoothed.
> No going back of course but manifolds are not unobtainable.

Hey, great idea.  If brazed on, can't you heat it up later and remove the
part??
Pete

------------------------------

Date: 8 May 2001 10:50:12 PDT
From: Casey McMullen <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Exhaust manifold bolts/tap 'n die

Yea, the nut wobbles up and down.  Straight out of the box they had a loose,
easy to turn fit; after tapping/di-ing I could grab the nut and rock it back
and forth.

Casey

David Scheidt <[email-masked]> wrote:
> On 7 May 2001, Casey McMullen wrote:
As a test I ran the tap through a
> :new nut, and ran a new bolt through the die.  When fitted they had an
> :extremely loose fit.  Is the trick to only run the cutting edges part way
> :through?
> 
> Loose which way?  Too easy to spin on, or is there longitudal movement?  
> ... The nut shouldn't wobble up and down though. 

____________________________________________________________________
Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1

------------------------------

Date: 8 May 2001 12:00:31 MDT
From: jjp4 <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: tub adjestment

This past weekend I removed the Tub from my 5-door 109 and replaced it with
another. This is not going as smoothly as I had hoped. First I could not find
any information on tub removal for the 5-door, found plenty for the 88 and
regular 109. I called RN for "technical help" what I received I would not call
technical, I could guess better than the help they offered. I even left my # 3
different days in a row without a call back. Sorry for the ramblings.

What I would like to know is has anyone replaced the tub on a 5-door, what
were the problems if any getting the tub, doors and top re-adjusted. What is
the best way to get everything readjusted? Did the pop rivet holes line up,
are they suppose to?

Thank you

Joe Palecek

____________________________________________________________________
Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=1

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 14:22:09 -0400
From: Perrone Ford <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Help with outfitting shop - excuse the cross-post

Well,

   After spending the last 10 months buying the tools to work on my 
vehicles (far from complete) it's time for me to start looking for a few 
things to make my life easier around the garage/shop.  A set of 4 jack 
stands was an early purchase, but the recent addition of a high lift, 
3.5 Ton trolley jack has been a God Send.  I am now looking for advise 
in the purchase of the following:

1.  A decent bench.  I don't WANT to make it myself.  I want it strong, 
with a few drawers.  Wooden top is fine.  I don't want to spend a ton of 
money on it either.

2.  A vise.  I have GOT to get one.  Looking for a 6.5-8.5" jaw.  Anvil 
on top would be nice.  Able to handle round stock is a good thing too.

3.  Hydraulic floor press.  Need more than 15 Tons if possible.  Got to 
get those stupid rubber bushings out!

4.  Bench Grinder.  One with 2 wheels and a light would be great.

With all these things, I am interested in quality, but I can't see 
spending $2k on a Snap-On bench or $800 for a Starrett Vise.  If anyone 
has some good alternatives I would be VERY glad to hear them. I am 
looking for brand names as well as advise on what would be useful to 
have on each item.  Remember, I am a home mechanic, not going into 
business for myself.  And I am not asking this blindly.  I've done a 
little homework on each item.

Thanks VERY much.

Perrone

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 12:06:47 -0700 
From: Paul Quin <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Tracking Down Vacuum Leaks

Second day on the road after replacing the rear main oil seal and still no
leaks! :-)  (yes, I remembered to put oil back in...)

One problem has cropped up though...   I replaced the manifold to head
gasket (old SII style one piece unit), most of the manifold bolt / studs,
and the carb packing block and bottom gaskets.  Now I have what sounds like
a vacuum leak.  Once warmed up, a whistling starts.  The Land Rover sounds
just like a tea kettle.  It only whistles with high vacuum i.e. when gearing
down and when idling.  It's quite loud, I get funny looks from other people
at intersections.

Any suggestions on how to track this leak down?  I've tried spraying carb
cleaner on the joints with no luck..

Paul Quin
1961 SII 88
Victoria, BC

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 17:47:09 -0400
From: "Rick Crider" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Series lll and Rangie for Sale....

Hello Troops.....
......I hope you'll pardon the cross posting to both lists here, but it does
pertain to both types of trucks.....

After procrastinating and reneging more than once, I'm officially offering
the following for sale:

1988 Range Rover.  Savannah Beige / Gray Leather.  Second owner, owned for
11 years now, since 1990.  Coachwork / body / paint throughout is
impeccable, even underneath.  Garaged when not being driven.  114000 miles.
Interior is immaculate except for drooping headliner.  Only known mechanical
faults are a leaking steering control box and right angle drive gear behind
the speedometer.  Properly maintained by myself.  New items over the past
few years are water pump, alternator, typical ignition maintenance items,
battery, etc.  Tires are literally 'as new'. Looking for best offer over
$6000.

1973 Series lll.  Poppy Red / Limestone top and wheels.  One registered
owner since 1973. Twenty eight years of receipts, inspection tickets, etc.,
documenting the 38000 original miles.  Truly impeccable condition with
absolutely NO rust anywhere.  A concours / show quality truck that is
literally too nice to use for it's intended purpose.  Price yet to be
decided but probably in the high teens.

I won't further clog up the bandwidth here.  Photos and related links are
posted on my home page at:  ...... www.rickcrider.com  ......  Glad to
honestly answer any detailed questions about either truck.  I'm located in
Monroe NC....just slightly southeast of Charlotte NC.  Need to sell to
invest the proceeds in a real estate project, which is what I do for a
living.  Though totally unrelated, I also have a 1995 AM General Hummer for
sale....photos and link on same page. Thanks.

Cordially:
Rick Crider
www.rickcrider.com
704-289-6303  Home / Office

------------------------------

Date: Tue,  8 May 2001 17:58:19 -0400
From: "David G. Russell" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Trail Access

Just looking for some feedback.

The rules for driving off hwy in NH are simple, as long as you have
written access from the land owner, be it public or private, you're good
to go. I've been told by the state fish and game dept. that DeLorme maps
(similar to the British Ordnance Survey Maps?) are not reliable
indicators of what smaller roads are actually legally passible so it's
_always_ best to get written permission.

So far, I haven't gotten a whole lotta letters in my mailbox from
generous private citizens, cities, and towns, etc. inviting me to come
drive on their land. Therefore, I'm going to have to initiate this
myself.

I'd like to be able to approach a land owner with a solid plan that has
no risk to him/her and if possible, some sort of benefit. In no
particular order I've come up with the following:

1. Liability waiver
    I know in our litigious society this may not hold up
    but something's gotta be better than nothing. If anyone
    has a sample waiver they could e-mail me it would be
    helpful.

2. Limited and Specific Number of Vehicles
    I think someone will be much more receptive if we have
    a specific plan. I.e., We'd like to bring five vehicles
    Saturday between 0900-1500. We're not yahoos, will observe
    the Tread Lightly rules, won't cut new trails, etc.

3. Pack out more than we Pack in
    This would be a benefit to the land owner. I know that
    in our town forest we come across a lot of trash and
    empty cans of really bad beer. If we could say to the 
    landowner, look, we're going to pick up as much trash
    as we can carry for no cost to you they might think twice
    about saying no.

4. Trail Maintenance
    Offering to perform trail maintenance might raise liability
    issues but it might be worth offering.

5. After trip report
    Rather than "eat and run" it might generate some good will
    to thank the land owner, in writing, and describe what happened.

Does anyone have any thoughts they'd like to share?

Thanks.

David

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 16:29:02 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Help with outfitting shop - excuse the cross-post

Home Depot has some decent vises for decent prices. Most have an anvil
or flat top, open fairley wide, and many have jaws for round stock. I
got a $39 vice from Costco a while back for a present which is quite
decent for the price. I just wish it opened wider sometimes. Northern
Equipment and Harbor Freight have cheap presses and better presses.

Perrone Ford wrote:
> 
> Well,
>
> 2.  A vise.  I have GOT to get one.  Looking for a 6.5-8.5" jaw.  Anvil
> on top would be nice.  Able to handle round stock is a good thing too.
> 
> 3.  Hydraulic floor press.  Need more than 15 Tons if possible.  Got to
> get those stupid rubber bushings out!
> 

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 19:02:05 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO:  15" wheels

Well, the 16" wheels came, the media blaster boys sobered up and primed them, 
and they are now limestone and wearing 235/85R16's.  The Falcon now marches 
proudly rather than lumbers as she did before.  She's much quieter and 
literally purrs along at 55 mph.  My question is, what about the 15" wheels?  
Counting the 6 that came with the truck and the 4 which Joseph Broach gave 
me, I now have 10 15" wheels in my back shed.  All have tires on them which 
hold air.  Six are actually pretty good tires.  I'm not sure about those 
which came from Sidney but they seemed OK.  Does anyone want them?  If anyone 
is interested please email me off-list.  If anyone wants to trade a new 
Santanna overdrive for them, that would be nice.  Otherwise they're free.

Ed Bailey
66 S2A SWB (Millennium Falcon)
Somewhere in East Tennessee

------------------------------

Date: 8 May 2001 16:20:44 -0700
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Trail Access

In general, land owned in the quantities worth driving on are held in trust for one reason or another - either pubic or private.  For this reason, you want to present yourself, and or you organization, as a partner in the care of the land.  You could get together with other interested user groups to propose a use access and management policy.  Then offer to assist in the administration of the policy.  Mountain bikers might be another user group to pal up with.  

Basicly, you have to sell the land use as a benefit of some sort.   Limiting undesired use (abuses like equipment vandalism and garbage dumping) is a huge administrative issue for large land holders.  For this reason, offering a regular presence with an emphasis on stewardship could be a benefit to offer.  This, of course, is a big bite to take for the occasional off road weekend use of an area.  That's where the other potential users come in.  Get them to help with the admin and coordination of the effort.

This day in age, you really have to be aggressive on the stewardship thing as soon as you mention OHV usage.  

Best of luck.

Bryan
62 88
70 109 "Genie"

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 17:36:38 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: rear seal retainer Q

The "rubber" around the seal retainer is hard. Did I need to order a new
one or are there gaskets which go on it? Since I seem to have no gaskets
and don't have a new retainer, I assume (and pray) that I might be able 
to get by with "the right stuff" as I am tired of waiting on parts and
machine work, and just want to get it back together. I now have 
everything except the head which has a crack, so I am assembling like a
madman. The head hopefully should be repaired and done tomorrow.
- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 17:31:24 -0700
From: "Paul Quin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: rear seal retainer Q

This is the crank rear seal retainers we're talking about?  If so, there are
no gaskets, just the split o-ring with it's spring and the two half moon
shaped retainers.  Older SII engines don't even have the o-ring.  The half
moon retainers do the sealing job too.  The instructions do say to coat all
joints in Hylomar sealer before reassemble.

BTDT last weekend...

Paul in Victoria.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>

> The "rubber" around the seal retainer is hard. Did I need to order a new
> one or are there gaskets which go on it? Since I seem to have no gaskets
> and don't have a new retainer, I assume (and pray) that I might be able
> to get by with "the right stuff" as I am tired of waiting on parts and
> machine work, and just want to get it back together. I now have
> everything except the head which has a crack, so I am assembling like a
> madman. The head hopefully should be repaired and done tomorrow.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 02:51:35 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Help with outfitting shop - excuse the cross-post

> 2.  A vise.  I have GOT to get one.  Looking for a 6.5-8.5" jaw.  Anvil
> on top would be nice.  Able to handle round stock is a good thing too.
>
> 3.  Hydraulic floor press.  Need more than 15 Tons if possible.  Got to
> get those stupid rubber bushings out!
>
> 4.  Bench Grinder.  One with 2 wheels and a light would be great.

Northern Hydraulics for the above 3 for me.  All are about 5 years old now
and going strong.
Not sure about the "more than 15 tons" though.  I have the 10 ton model and
it has worked great for doing spring bushings, and installing bearings and
stuff.
As for the bench, let me know what you end up with.  I have yet to find a
bench that I was happy with so ended up building my own.  4x4 legs, 2x6
frame.  2 layers of 3/4 plywoods screwed together for the top.  It's about
belly button to lower rib cage on me, 8' long and 30" deep.  I added a 2x6
backing bloack under where the big shop vise goes.  It is tall enough so
that some old kitchen cabinets I have fit underneath.  Currently though,
under the bench seems the best place for the jack stands, arc welder,
disassembled engine stand and shop press, and my floor jacks.
At a shop I worked at, we made the same thing, and then wrapped the tops
with 18 gauge sheet metal.  Easy to clean, long lasting..not too expensive,
think for one bench it runs about 100$.
For welding the owner got this 1.5" thick 48"x48" plate from a friend at the
ship yard.  Some old 3" loly columns were used as legs.  Made the legs about
36".  Kinda close to the ground for some things, but real nice when working
on bigger projects.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 22:54:02 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: tub adjestment

> 
> What I would like to know is has anyone replaced the tub on a 5-door, what
> were the problems if any getting the tub, doors and top re-adjusted. What is
> the best way to get everything readjusted? Did the pop rivet holes line up,
> are they suppose to?

> Joe Palecek

You shouldn't need to remove rivets to get the tub off. Take off doors
Detach sill rails at the bottom of front door posts.
Remove roof and rear sides leaving B pillars sticking up.
Remove the bolts from the mounting tabs on the outriggers behind the
front seat base and the same ahead of rear wheels.
Remove gas tank filler hose, disconnect rear wiring. remove bolts at
rear crossmember. remove any other bits I forgot
Lift off tub
John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 22:55:19 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: Tracking Down Vacuum Leaks

Stethoscope.
John and Muddy

Paul Quin wrote:
> 
> Second day on the road after replacing the rear main oil seal and still no
> leaks! :-)  (yes, I remembered to put oil back in...)
> 
> One problem has cropped up though...   I replaced the manifold to head
> gasket (old SII style one piece unit), most of the manifold bolt / studs,
> and the carb packing block and bottom gaskets.  Now I have what sounds like
> a vacuum leak.  Once warmed up, a whistling starts.  The Land Rover sounds
> just like a tea kettle.  It only whistles with high vacuum i.e. when gearing
> down and when idling.  It's quite loud, I get funny looks from other people
> at intersections.
> 
> Any suggestions on how to track this leak down?  I've tried spraying carb
> cleaner on the joints with no luck..
> 
> Paul Quin
> 1961 SII 88
> Victoria, BC

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 17:11:57 -0400
From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: UK Vehicl inspection

The AA or RAC ( Automobile Assoc or Royal Automobile Club) offer a
vehicle inspection service at a moderate  price. There are a lot of
independants too.

Regards from Western New York State

  Bill Leacock.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 22:34:18 -0400
From: Nick Danger <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: SIII locks

On Monday 07 May 2001 13:49, N Forbes wrote:

> Anyone know how to get the lock barrels out of a set of SIII locks?
> Without the key? Can I drill them out or do I need to go to a locksmith?
>
> I've got a set of three matching lock barrels to install once I get the old
> ones out. How do I get these in? Is it pretty self evident once I get the
> thing apart?

I did have to drill a rivit at the top of each latch to seperate the sides, 
and I had to use a hammer and small nail to pop the barrel out, but I didnt 
have to drill the barrel itself. The new one did pop in pretty easily. Some 
lithium grease and a bolt to replace the drilled rivet and all is well. It 
was hard to assemble correctly, and the sides must be TIGHT together or else 
it wont work properly.  There was a diagram in the Rovers North catalog that 
I used for assembling the sides/barrel/springs. RN is also where I got my 
parts.

- -Nick

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 20:52:29 -0600
From: Ivan Van Laningham <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Tracking Down Vacuum Leaks

Hi All--

John Cranfield wrote:
> Stethoscope.
> John and Muddy

Stethoscopes are for sissies;-)  Use an old broomstick.  Impress your
friends.

<listen-to-your-neighbor's-ticker>-ly y'rs,
Ivan;-)

> Paul Quin wrote:
> >
> > Second day on the road after replacing the rear main oil seal and still no
> > leaks! :-)  (yes, I remembered to put oil back in...)
> >
> > One problem has cropped up though...   I replaced the manifold to head
> > gasket (old SII style one piece unit), most of the manifold bolt / studs,
> > and the carb packing block and bottom gaskets.  Now I have what sounds like
> > a vacuum leak.  Once warmed up, a whistling starts.  The Land Rover sounds
> > just like a tea kettle.  It only whistles with high vacuum i.e. when gearing
> > down and when idling.  It's quite loud, I get funny looks from other people
> > at intersections.
> >
> > Any suggestions on how to track this leak down?  I've tried spraying carb
> > cleaner on the joints with no luck..
> >
> > Paul Quin
> > 1961 SII 88
> > Victoria, BC

- -- 
- ----------------------------------------------
Ivan Van Laningham
Symantec
http://www.pauahtun.org/
http://www.foretec.com/python/workshops/1998-11/proceedings.html
Army Signal Corps:  Cu Chi, Class of '70
Author:  Teach Yourself Python in 24 Hours

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 07:34:56 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Tracking Down Vacuum Leaks

> 
> Stethoscopes are for sissies;-)  Use an old broomstick.  Impress your
> friends.
> 
> <listen-to-your-neighbor's-ticker>-ly y'rs,
> Ivan;-)
> 

Or a 2 foot long screwdriver.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 08:00:39 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: Tracking Down Vacuum Leaks

Broomsticks and srewdrivers work fine for finding knocks and rattles but
aren't any good for whistles.
Besides people might start calling you Doc.
John and Muddy 

Hope Peter wrote:
> 
> >
> > Stethoscopes are for sissies;-)  Use an old broomstick.  Impress your
> > friends.
> >
> > <listen-to-your-neighbor's-ticker>-ly y'rs,
> > Ivan;-)
> >
> 
> Or a 2 foot long screwdriver.
> Pete

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 09:01:46 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Tracking Down Vacuum Leaks

- --part1_18.c8acc30.282a99ba_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 5/8/01 10:55:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> Hi All--
> 
> John Cranfield wrote:
> > 
> > Stethoscope.
> > John and Muddy
> > 
> 
> Stethoscopes are for sissies;-)  Use an old broomstick.  Impress your
> friends.
> 
> <listen-to-your-neighbor's-ticker>-ly y'rs,
> Ivan;-)
> 
> 
> 

The most impressive thing I ever saw when young was watching this old guy 
diagnose a poorly running tractor.   He listened for a bit, picked up a short 
branch, proceeded to set it on various parts of the engine with the other end 
against his forehead.  

He proclaimed a bad bearing on whatever cylinder, and later that afternoon he 
pulled it out to show all.  I thought he was a god.

Nate

- --part1_18.c8acc30.282a99ba_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 5/8/01 10:55:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
<BR>[email-masked] writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Hi All--
<BR>
<BR>John Cranfield wrote:
<BR>&gt; 
<BR>&gt; Stethoscope.
<BR>&gt; John and Muddy
<BR>&gt; 
<BR>
<BR>Stethoscopes are for sissies;-) &nbsp;Use an old broomstick. &nbsp;Impress your
<BR>friends.
<BR>
<BR>&lt;listen-to-your-neighbor's-ticker&gt;-ly y'rs,
<BR>Ivan;-)
<BR>
<BR>
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>The most impressive thing I ever saw when young was watching this old guy 
<BR>diagnose a poorly running tractor. &nbsp;&nbsp;He listened for a bit, picked up a short 
<BR>branch, proceeded to set it on various parts of the engine with the other end 
<BR>against his forehead. &nbsp;
<BR>
<BR>He proclaimed a bad bearing on whatever cylinder, and later that afternoon he 
<BR>pulled it out to show all. &nbsp;I thought he was a god.
<BR>
<BR>Nate</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_18.c8acc30.282a99ba_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 09:32:40 -0400 
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Tracking Down Vacuum Leaks

> 	John Cranfield wrote: 
> 	> 
> 	> Stethoscope. 
> 	> John and Muddy 
> 	> 
> 	
> 	Go round with an unlit propane torch turned on just a little. When
> the propane is sucked into the leak the engine speed will change.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 10:13:15 -0400
From: Perrone Ford <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Help with outfitting shop - excuse the cross-post

<html><head></head><body>Thanks Peter,<br>
<br>
A few notes..<br>
<br>
Hope Peter wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:[email-masked]">
  <blockquote type="cite"><pre wrap="">2.  A vise.  I have GOT to get one.  Looking for a 6.5-8.5" jaw.  Anvil<br>on top would be nice.  Able to handle round stock is a good thing too.<br><br>3.  Hydraulic floor press.  Need more than 15 Tons if possible.  Got to<br>get those stupid rubber bushings out!<br><br>4.  Bench Grinder.  One with 2 wheels and a light would be great.<br></pre></blockquote>
    <pre wrap=""><!----><br>Northern Hydraulics for the above 3 for me.  All are about 5 years old now<br>and going strong.<br>Not sure about the "more than 15 tons" though.  I have the 10 ton model and<br>it has worked great for doing spring bushings, and installing bearings and<br>stuff.</pre>
    </blockquote>
I should have made it clear that I don't have a series truck, so my needs
are probably different than a Series owner.&nbsp; I've heard of owners bending
or breaking things using 10 ton presses to get out the bushings on the A-Arms
or Radius arms on our trucks.&nbsp; I have NO desire to have those issues.<br>
    <br>
    <blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:[email-masked]"><pre wrap="">As for the bench, let me know what you end up with.  I have yet to find a<br>bench that I was happy with so ended up building my own.  4x4 legs, 2x6<br>frame.  2 layers of 3/4 plywoods screwed together for the top.  It's about<br>belly button to lower rib cage on me, 8' long and 30" deep.  I added a 2x6<br>backing bloack under where the big shop vise goes.  It is tall enough so<br></pre>
      </blockquote>
Any pics or drawings of what you did?&nbsp; Looks like I will end up making my own...<br>
      <br>
Thanks,<br>
      <br>
- -P<br>
      <br>
</body></html>

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #372
**********************************************

---

From: "David G. Russell" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 12:20:36 -0400

On 9/5/01 at 10:13, Perrone Ford wrote:

> 1.  A decent bench.  I don't WANT to make it myself.  I want it
> strong, with a few drawers.  Wooden top is fine.  I don't want to
> spend a ton of money on it either.

...

> spending $2k on a Snap-On bench

I know that they're not always the cheapest but I just got the Griot's
Garage Catalog and they have benches, big benches, in the $400-$800
range. Don't know what shipping will cost though b/c they're too heavy
for UPS

I built mine and secure it to studs with angle bracketts. If that's not
secure enough, I use the floor or the driveway.