Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #371

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 04:33:35 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *  Tuesday, May 8 2001  Volume 01 : Number 371

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 09:15:26 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: crossed wires (was stalling, rough idling)

Looked at the dizzy and saw #2 and #3 wires were hooked up wrong!  So
much better when they're in their correct spots but the darn thing ran.
Amazing little lumps!

Chris
70 SIIa 88

Yup - they are.

Reminds me of the time I lost the head gasket between 2 and 3 on Mr.
Churchill. Remains of it finally blew out on the highway in rush hour
coming home from Boston. Ran the rest of the way home with it backfiring
and running like crap but tootled along at 55 MPH....

Tough little buggers indeed.

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 09:46:46 -0400
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Advise on Range Rover

Only buy it if you have ANOTHER 8K ready to plunk into the truck for
unforseen repairs, which there will be many.
- -- 
Bill Adams
Motion Graphics/3D Design Director
IBB Broadcast Design Center, Washington DC
[email-masked]
202-205-9638

1966 Land Rover 2A 109SW Diesel
1981 Honda GoldWing Standard
1963 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 09:54:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Andre L. Shoumatoff" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Stalling/Rough Idling SIII

> The only incorrect item on it is a Solex carb without emission control
> rather than the Zenith unit.
> When it starts, it puts out a white puff of smoke.  This always happens,
> when starting cold or warm.   It did this before the new head gasket was
> installed.
> Also it is now idling idling roughly and sometimes stalls at idle.  It
> seems to "pop-pop-pop" like an old 2 cycle Saab, but does not backfire,
> when going down hills in gear.  It doesn't burn oil.
> Ideas?  Thanks!
> Kurt

Hello Kurt,
As per some dead-on advice I received once when I had the same problem
and had the exact same symtoms, I'd look around your exaust manifold for
loose bolts or a leak somewhere in the connection to the head.  It could
also, secondly, be a poor connection between the exaust pipe and manifold
where they meet at the bottom of the  manifold.  Those bolts could simply
be not tightened enough.  You should see some slighly black buildup there
though, and/or can put your hand around the pipe when the engine and pipe
are completely cold.

Though I never had to replace my manifold, I was told it is real common
for the main nuts which connect the manifold to the head to come loose.
But I'd speculate given how recently it has been replaced it is probably
not the problem.  I was also told the Series III gaskets were somewhat
prone to leaking versus the IIA one-piece gaskets, and finally the
manifold could have simply arrived warped from wherever you got it from,
but that is the worst case scenario that is least probable.

So, start with the water trick.  Remember to MAKE SURE the engine is cold
when you do it, otherwise you could crack the manifold.  Pour a little
cold water around the connection between manifold and engine.  Start her
up, and look for bubbles.  In my situation it turned out to be the
connection between the exaust and manifold, and my symtoms were
identical.  Make sure you also don't put too many miles (hundreds to
thousands) with it like this otherwise you could crack the manifold and
possibly hurt the valves.

Andre

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 08:29:33 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: uh oh, Jim's at it again...

What do you think of nylon if I can't get copper locally?

Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:
> 
> I wouldn't use fiber - not sure what the oil will do to it. Go with flat
> copper washers for oil pan plugs - they'll do...
> 
>                     ajr

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 10:33:07 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Exhaust manifold bolts!!!

I'm a lazy bugger and I say stack some washers behind that nut!

>>> [email-masked] 05/06/01 10:22PM >>>
On Sun, 6 May 2001, Kirk Hillman wrote:

:David,
:    Great thought.  It occurred to me that I should just cut them off and
:rethread, but I was hoping to simply screw out the old ones and screw in new
:ones that are shorter.  In a perfect world it would be easier.  :-)  I don't
:have a full set of taps and dies so I won't have one to match, what is the
:thread on those do you suppose?

5/16-24, I think.  Might be 5/16-18, if they're not fine threaded.  It's
really worth having a decent set of dies (and taps, but I use dies much more
often on the the rover) to work on the Land-Rover.  The fairly complete set of
SAE taps and dies, including a tap holder, die wrench and thread pitch
do-hickey was about $50 bucks from Sears.  I run just about every bolt
through a die before I put it back on, makes reassembly and the next
diassembly much easier.  

David
- -- 
[email-masked] 
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 10:41:35 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: uh oh, Jim's at it again...

Nylon makes me nervous - the stuff tends to flow under pressure. Copper
should be easily available - even the local AutoZone carries 'em in a
blister pack on the pegboard in various sizes.

Or if you still have the old ones heat 'em up in a gas flame and quench -
they'll be soft and reusable. I don't recommend this but it can be
done.....

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 08:58:03 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: uh oh, Jim's at it again...

I'll check the parts store. The problem with reusing them is that I was
missing 2 to start with.

Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:
> 
> Nylon makes me nervous - the stuff tends to flow under pressure. Copper
> should be easily available - even the local AutoZone carries 'em in a
> blister pack on the pegboard in various sizes.
> 
> Or if you still have the old ones heat 'em up in a gas flame and quench -
> they'll be soft and reusable. I don't recommend this but it can be
> done.....
> 
>                          ajr

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 10:38:23 -0600 
From: "Coates, Clinton" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: UK Independent Land Rover Broker/Inspector

All this talk of remote-buying a land rover from the UK has me thinking.  I
wonder if there is a market niche for someone over there to inspect a rover
for a remote purchase?  If I was going to be shelling out 7-10 k for a
vehicle landed in NA, I would happily pay someone a couple-three hundred
bucks to do a super picky inspection of the truck.

Clinton

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 12:58:04 -0400 
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: UK Independent Land Rover Broker/Inspector

Yes, but what happens when the deal goes bad and you want to recover your
losses from the poor unwary inspector?

>  If I was going to be shelling out 7-10 k for a
> vehicle landed in NA, I would happily pay someone a couple-three hundred
> bucks to do a super picky inspection of the truck.
> 
> Clinton

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 17:49:55 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: SIII locks

Hey folks,

Anyone know how to get the lock barrels out of a set of SIII locks?
Without the key? Can I drill them out or do I need to go to a locksmith?

I've got a set of three matching lock barrels to install once I get the old 
ones out. How do I get these in? Is it pretty self evident once I get the 
thing apart?

Thanks a lot.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

------------------------------

Date: 07 May 2001 13:12:08 -0500
From: george kase <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Series coil sprung chassis conversion?

Anyone have experience with doing this? Any experience with Big Sky
Rovers and their rolling chassis? thanks
George Kase
Chicago USA
[email-masked]

------------------------------

Date: 7 May 2001 11:13:08 PDT
From: Casey McMullen <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [LRO: tab washer/transmission/overdrive]

I just put my Fairy OD back on after a gearbox rebuild using a new tab/lock
washer.  Only one of the tabs lined up, but more importantly the other tabs
were a little bit too long.  They stuck up just enough to keep the OD from
sliding all the way on, quite frustrating until I realized.  I ended up
chiseling the little pieces of tab that stuck proud from the edge of the
mainshaft nut.  Do yourself a favor before installing/tightening the nut and
trim enough off the ends of the tabs until the washer is the same max.
diameter as the nut.

Casey

"Gerry Elam" <[email-masked]> wrote:
> I had removed the overdrive on the Series III and using that special tool, 
> got the nut off the mainshaft along with the tab washer.
> 
> I obtained a new tab washer from one of the best known suppliers but 
> yesterday, when I went to install it, none of the tabs lined up with the 
> tabs on the nut.  Well, one will always line up, the second one is halfway 
> lined up and the third is completely blocked.
> 
> I'll admit that this is my first time in this area of the LR but it seems 
> wrong that the tabs don't all line up. Did the vendor send me a wrong tab 
> washer?  Is it that simple?!

____________________________________________________________________
Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 13:16:09 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: SIII locks

On Mon, 7 May 2001, N Forbes wrote:

:Hey folks,
:
:Anyone know how to get the lock barrels out of a set of SIII locks?
:Without the key? Can I drill them out or do I need to go to a locksmith?

Drill using a bit just a bit wider than the keyway, at the top.  Someone
posted very good instructions a year so ago.  Anybody got a copy?

DAvid
- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 13:16:09 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: SIII locks

On Mon, 7 May 2001, N Forbes wrote:

:Hey folks,
:
:Anyone know how to get the lock barrels out of a set of SIII locks?
:Without the key? Can I drill them out or do I need to go to a locksmith?

Drill using a bit just a bit wider than the keyway, at the top.  Someone
posted very good instructions a year so ago.  Anybody got a copy?

DAvid
- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: 7 May 2001 11:18:41 PDT
From: Casey McMullen <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Exhaust manifold bolts/tap 'n die

Everyone always says taps/dies are great to have around so I just bought a
few.  So how do you use these things effectively?  I think I got a 1/4-28, and
it seems like they cut too much thread off.  As a test I ran the tap through a
new nut, and ran a new bolt through the die.  When fitted they had an
extremely loose fit.  Is the trick to only run the cutting edges part way
through?

Thanks,
Casey

David Scheidt <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 5/16-24, I think.  Might be 5/16-18, if they're not fine threaded.  It's
> really worth having a decent set of dies (and taps, but I use dies much
more
> often on the the rover) to work on the Land-Rover.  The fairly complete set
of
> SAE taps and dies, including a tap holder, die wrench and thread pitch
> do-hickey was about $50 bucks from Sears.  I run just about every bolt
> through a die before I put it back on, makes reassembly and the next
> diassembly much easier.  

____________________________________________________________________
Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1

------------------------------

Date: 7 May 2001 11:27:17 PDT
From: Casey McMullen <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [LRO: Re: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? ]

Do you mean Craddocks or Paddocks?  I just placed a big (>$1000) order from
Craddocks and it took forever!  After a week I had to bother them to get a
quote based on the detailed parts/numbers/catalog-prices list I had emailed
and faxed.  Then it took two more weeks for them to say, "Oh yeah, a few items
are back ordered."  So I said, "Please, I'm in a hurry, send whatever you
have!"  Another week later when I called they said, "Gee, there's no notation
on this order to send right away, it should go out soon."  It ended up taking
about a month.  Someone else told me a similar story with Craddocks, next time
I'll probably go with Paddocks or someone else.  Anyone care to comment on
service level from various UK parts houses?

YMMV,
Casey

"Hope Peter" <[email-masked]> wrote:
> I was going to suggest the above and Cross Country and Craddocks.
> ...
> Paddocks is http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/welcome.htm

____________________________________________________________________
Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 14:27:56 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [LRO: tab washer/transmission/overdrive]

The tabs provided by Fairey were a different size for just that
reason...good FYI.

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 13:32:22 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Exhaust manifold bolts/tap 'n die

On 7 May 2001, Casey McMullen wrote:

:Everyone always says taps/dies are great to have around so I just bought a
:few.  So how do you use these things effectively?  I think I got a 1/4-28, and
:it seems like they cut too much thread off.  As a test I ran the tap through a
:new nut, and ran a new bolt through the die.  When fitted they had an
:extremely loose fit.  Is the trick to only run the cutting edges part way
:through?

Loose which way?  Too easy to spin on, or is there longitudal movement?  
Nuts should be really easy to spin on.  Most nuts and bolts at the hardware
store have badly cut threads.  For 1/4-28 a good sping ought to send the nut
an inch or so down the threads.  The nut shouldn't wobble up and down
though. 

David
- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 12:58:08 -0600
From: Jeremy <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: UK Independent Land Rover Broker/Inspector

I would too, but I'd probably be nice and pay them in pounds sterling :)

Anyways, I do have some contacts through work who I may try and have
inspect some of the trucks out there.  I also may be able to get over there
via work and/or the massive ammount of airline miles I have collected..

Coates, Clinton enlightened recipients with the following on 07May2001:
> All this talk of remote-buying a land rover from the UK has me thinking.  I
> wonder if there is a market niche for someone over there to inspect a rover
> for a remote purchase?  If I was going to be shelling out 7-10 k for a
> vehicle landed in NA, I would happily pay someone a couple-three hundred
> bucks to do a super picky inspection of the truck.
> 
> Clinton

- -- 
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
                          heffner at darkness.net
                       Darkness Network Engineering
                   PGP public key available on request
            My thoughts and opinions represent no one but myself
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 15:15:19 -0400 
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [LRO: Re: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? ]

to get back to the original topic, I got my SIII Lightweight from Skytop
about 18 months ago, and while I had it off the road this winter (roadsalt)
it's been a fine running Rover, by all the reports I have heard of other's
vehicles.  With little in the way of repairs, I did 6,000 miles last year,
mainly daily commuting in traffic.  and a few longer trips, NY to Boston,
then to VT and Maine.  And it ran like a champ.  I have since suffered the
non LMA blues, leaking brakes, but that will be fixed soon and I will be
back on the road.  I feel the price was fair about 5,500, as I had no time
to do the search over the pond for my own Rover.  I told him what I wanted,
he sorta pushed me in certain directions (RHD offers a better selection than
LHD, 24V are a more robust system) and I think they helped.  while I can't
readily find parts from the local suppliers, Skytop has a bunch of spares in
case anything 24V does go out.  and he's pretty good about knowing how to
diagnose, especially over the phone.  I know it's often hard to find the
ones who are happy with their purchases, as the squeaky wheel gets the oil,
but I thought i would relay my experiences.  He also got me a hoopset and
tailgate, and some extra mirrors to make my Rover more complete after the
fact.  He tries to please his customers, but some I feel are of the mindset
that he is a swindler.  There is no changing these mindsets, short of
snipping the liner from his pockets, and even then, you have turned a
skeptic into a less disgruntled skeptic.

He has in recent months procured a shop, a mechanic (English no less), and
has been offering more services for his customers (resprays being one), and
has even been known to take in the odd Rangie for service, as a Range Rover
seems to invoke $$$ in mechanic's eyes.

email me off list if you want more info.

Matt Peckham
74 Lightweight.
        _____
  ||===|||  | \ 
 _||___|||__|__\_{EE}_
 |  ____         ____ \
 | /    \       /    \|)
[||( () )\_____|( () )[ ]
~~~~\~~/~~~~~~~~~\~~/~~~~~~~~~

www.crossmember.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 12:58:46 -0700 
From: Paul Quin <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [LRO: Re: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? ]

I've had a similar experience with Craddock's.  Ordered a Solex overhaul kit
and some misc small parts through their website.  Heard nothing for two
weeks, sent four (4) e-mail inquiry's, was finally answered with "we did not
receive your order".  I had already re-ordered the kit from Paddock's and
told Craddock's to cancel the order if they did find it.  Sure enough, one
month later I had the Craddock's order sitting in my mail box.  Oh well, I
now have an extra Solex overhaul kit.  

Paddock's was very prompt with their replies and shipped the entire order
within 48 hours of my first e-mail.

To Craddock's credit, they do have a lot of hard to find items...

Paul in Victoria.

	-----Original Message-----

	I'll probably go with Paddocks or someone else.  Anyone care to
comment on
	service level from various UK parts houses?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 20:04:49 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? 

Jim Wolf writes:>>> I have purchased parts ( frame, bulkhead etc) from P.A.
Blanchard and have
> no complaints at all. I have however, never purchased a vehicle
> from him<<

I have known a few people here in the UK who have bought Blanchard's
vehicles with no problems.

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 16:25:23 -0400
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [LRO: Re: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? ]

I've ordered from both Craddocks and Paddock. The first order was with 
Paddock - about 400 pounds sterling worth. Well, some bits were 
back-ordered and I had to keep calling to find out what was going on. 
Finally, they shipped everything out UPS Express before I had confirmed 
shipping methods - the day before I was heading over to the UK. Needless to 
say, the 185 quid shipping bill didn't make me terribly happy. Then UPS 
lost the parcel for two weeks and so I requested that Paddock put in for a 
refund. A month later (after the deadline) I found out that they hadn't - 
so not only did my "next day" service take a fortnight, I was unable to get 
my money back. I'm in no rush to deal with them again mostly because of the 
lack of service. The prices were good, though.

With Craddocks, I was careful to ensure that everything was in stock so my 
order could go out right away. Well, they TOLD me it was in stock. But 
apparantly not, and a week after I needed the parts (and a couple of phone 
calls later) they showed up. With one bit missing. So not much better then. 
Again, excellent prices. Bad website, but at least the prices are there.

Rovers North, on the other hand, has been exemplary. Fast, knowledgable and 
accurate.  Fantastic website with a very clever ordering mechanism. And 
expensive.

My favorite so far has been Atlantic British of Canada. Since they're on my 
side of the border, the shipping is cheap, there are no customs issues and 
they were very good to deal with. Plus they're far cheaper than RN. The 
biggest downside is that they don't have a website or online price lists, 
so I have to bother them each time I want to price something.

I've gotta say, there's nothing like dealing with the Brits to appreciate 
how professional some of the North American vendors are.

Keith Tanner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 17:35:53 -0300
From: "Matthias Eisengruber" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: SIII locks

<html><DIV>
<P><BR><BR></P>Hold your horses Niall. I do have the keys for them and one lock is already missing it's cylinder.</DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Reply-To: [email-masked] 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;To: [email-masked] 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Subject: LRO: SIII locks 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 17:49:55 -0000 
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Hey folks, 
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Anyone know how to get the lock barrels out of a set of SIII locks? 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Without the key? Can I drill them out or do I need to go to a 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;locksmith? 
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;I've got a set of three matching lock barrels to install once I get 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;the old 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;ones out. How do I get these in? Is it pretty self evident once I 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;get the 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;thing apart? 
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Thanks a lot. 
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Niall Forbes 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Dartmouth, Nova Scotia 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;The Nova Scotian Rover - 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm 
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;"See the happy moron, 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;He doesn't give a damn. 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;I wish I were a moron. 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;My God! Perhaps I am!" 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;--author unknown 
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;_________________________________________________________________________ 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;http://www.hotmail.com. 
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 
<DIV></DIV><br clear=all><hr>Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at <a href="http://www.hotmail.com">http://www.hotmail.com</a>.<br></p></html>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 13:52:35 -0700
From: "Rich Williams II" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: fuel tank liners

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BB_01C0D6FC.F88767A0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I am taking my fuel tank in to the radiator shop to have them boil it =
out but they do not do linings as they only do cleaning and repairs.  =
SO...  does anyone have any suggestions on what is best to use to line =
the tank with.  I have heard that the POR15 stuff is pretty good.  Any =
other ideas - what about not lining it?  Or is that just asking for =
trouble down the road.

Thanks,=20

Rich Williams
'60 SII 109SW=20

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BB_01C0D6FC.F88767A0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>I am taking my fuel tank in to the radiator shop to have them boil =
it out=20
but they do not do linings as&nbsp;they only do cleaning and =
repairs.&nbsp;=20
SO...&nbsp; does anyone have any suggestions on what is best to use to =
line the=20
tank with.&nbsp; I have heard that the POR15 stuff is pretty good.&nbsp; =
Any=20
other&nbsp;ideas - what about not lining it?&nbsp; Or is that just =
asking for=20
trouble down the road.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks, </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Rich Williams</DIV>
<DIV>'60 SII 109SW&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BB_01C0D6FC.F88767A0--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 17:30:22 -0400
From: "Lee Jones" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [LRO: Re: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? ]

So far I've had pretty good service from Craddocks -  I phoned them and got
parts to rebuild a head in three days!  Once they sent me the incorrect
generator and when it was pointed out to them the sent me the correct one
and didn't want the other one back (it did take an extra week while someone
was on vacation to confirm it though).  I have only gotten quotes from
Paddocks and each time they showed a lot of the order on backorder so I went
either with RN or Craddocks for genuine parts.

Lee

- -----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
Behalf Of Casey McMullen
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 2:27 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [LRO: Re: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? ]

Do you mean Craddocks or Paddocks?  I just placed a big (>$1000) order from
Craddocks and it took forever!  After a week I had to bother them to get a
quote based on the detailed parts/numbers/catalog-prices list I had emailed
and faxed.  Then it took two more weeks for them to say, "Oh yeah, a few
items
are back ordered."  So I said, "Please, I'm in a hurry, send whatever you
have!"  Another week later when I called they said, "Gee, there's no
notation
on this order to send right away, it should go out soon."  It ended up
taking
about a month.  Someone else told me a similar story with Craddocks, next
time
I'll probably go with Paddocks or someone else.  Anyone care to comment on
service level from various UK parts houses?

YMMV,
Casey

"Hope Peter" <[email-masked]> wrote:
> I was going to suggest the above and Cross Country and Craddocks.
> ...
> Paddocks is http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/welcome.htm

____________________________________________________________________
Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 21:44:48 +0100
From: "Phil Norris" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: UK Independent Land Rover Broker/Inspector

Could there be an auto club arrangement where a US club could commission an
inspection from the AA or RAC??
Most of the UK orgs do pre-purchase inspections for a "fairly high" fee.
They all run Landies to cover wilder parts so should have a fair idea.....
PhilN
- -----Original Message-----
From: Coates, Clinton <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]' <[email-masked]>
Date: 07 May 2001 17:46
Subject: LRO: UK Independent Land Rover Broker/Inspector

>All this talk of remote-buying a land rover from the UK has me thinking.  I
>wonder if there is a market niche for someone over there to inspect a rover
>for a remote purchase?  If I was going to be shelling out 7-10 k for a
>vehicle landed in NA, I would happily pay someone a couple-three hundred
>bucks to do a super picky inspection of the truck.
>
>Clinton
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 18:36:05 -0400
From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: tab washer

Gerry  
The tab washer is designed so that only one of the tabs lines up.  One
tab is suffiicient to lock the nut.
Beware that if you use a standard tab washer the two remaining tabs are
too long and will prevent the over drive from fitting.
 Check that the tabs do not protrude beyond the root diamater of the
overdrive gear. if they do, shorten them!

Regards from Western New York State

  Bill Leacock.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 18:49:32 -0400
From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Peirce WEbber manifold

When using the Pierce manifold with the standard exhaust manifold it is
necessary to fit a blanking plate over the hole in the manifold.  Be
careful when choosing a plate to cover the hole, there is not much
clearance, and if  you make the plate too thin it will warp and not seal.
 ISTR approx 3/16 inch will wrok, but if you hear a manifold hiss on
start up then reduce the thickness, or file some material  off the
manifold, ( Be careful, it's not very thick!) It is necesary to replace
the studs with hex head screws, since the clearance under the manifold is
insufficient to use the variuos suggestions made regarding spacers etc..

Regards from Western New York State

  Bill Leacock.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 19:38:27 -0400
From: "d.h.lowe" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4

DoT standards are a "performance standard". They lay down the minimums and
maximums and the product has to meet those requirements. They do not specify
what it has to be made from.
Dave

Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:

> >Your brake system will be happy with any brake fluid that is rated DOT4.
> >Most auto parts store carries at least one brand of DOT4 fluid.
>
> I am very sorry to disagree but not all DOT4 fluids are the same. I have
> personally had hydraulic system failures from using a fluid that while DOT4
> was not Castrol - it promptly dissolved all my seals.Pyroil was the name -
> and I haven't used any other than Castrol since.
>
> Natural rubber seals (Girling and he like) require a fluid different from
> the standard American and European synthetic rubber seals. Specifically,
> the seals can't contain mineral-oil products else the rubber swells and
> dissolves.
>
> DOT ratings are for boiling, NOT chemical composition.
>
>                          ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 01 15:50:45 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [LRO: tab washer/transmission/overdrive]

>I just put my Fairy OD back on after a gearbox rebuild using a new tab/lock
>washer.  Only one of the tabs lined up, but more importantly the other tabs
>were a little bit too long.  They stuck up just enough to keep the OD from
>sliding all the way on, quite frustrating until I realized.  I ended up
>chiseling the little pieces of tab that stuck proud from the edge of the
>mainshaft nut.  Do yourself a favor before installing/tightening the nut and
>trim enough off the ends of the tabs until the washer is the same max.
>diameter as the nut.

When I purchased Superwinch OD I seem to remember it coming with a 
special tab washer.  I guess it was just a little shorter than the Land 
Rover one.

Good advice

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 17:07:56 -0700
From: "Nick Eckert" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: MISSION ACCOMPLISHED - Replacement of Syncromesh Detent Springs

	Well, I did it.

	I'd like to thank all the internet help I got from Bill Leacock and phone
support I got from my friends Gord'n and Pat.

	It really is a tedious job, but quite do able in 1 day at a leasurely pace.
The easy part was removing the old piece as I found 1/2 in the syncromesh
assy and the other half when I drained the oil.  The hardest part was
aligning the new spring to go into the slot without being able to see the
slot.

	Tools required inside tranny:

	Surgical Forceps
	Long Needle Nose Pliers
	Long, Skinny Flat tip screwdriver

	and lots of patience! :-)

Cheers,

Nickster

1971 SIII 'Grommit' with the red bonnet
1961 SII 2.5TD Coiler Hybrid, soon to be intercooled

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 21:05:15 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: LRO: Moose Trophy Rally

There will be a night Offroad run Thursday for those arriving early at
the Moose Trophy Rally
Cranfield Farm at 8 pm.
John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 21:02:00 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Solex Carb Accelerator Pump

Well, the British Motor Car Day in North Georgia is this Saturday and tonight the Solex on my 1965 IIa 88" decides to spring a leak.  Looks like it is coming from the pump diaphram and not so much the gasket that goes between the pump assembly and the carb body.  I already have the gasket kit from RN (which I'd hoped contained the diaphram but it doesn't..just the seals) and I see they offer the accelerator pump membrane also.  The green bible doesn't go into a lot of detail on rebuilding the pump assembly.  Assuming I can get it, just the assembly, removed tonight, anyone have a suggestion or advice for working on this tempermental pump unit?

I really need to get this jewel fixed so I can safely make the 300 mile round trip on Saturday!!

TIA

Ron Ward

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 21:06:02 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [LRO: Re: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? ]

- --part1_e6.1512340e.2828a07a_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Matt,
Thanks for the positive feedback on Gabor and Skytop Rovers. I had met him 
once and looked over some of his vehicles a few months before he aquired the 
shop. He seemed very eager to please and I have no problem with him making a 
few dollars in the process. Seems safer than buying offshore.
Tony Miller
73 Lightweight

 ANTHONY D. MILLER & Co.
        ~ The Tintype Artist ~
      Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes
           34 Perryfalls Place
    Baltimore, Maryland 21236
                 410-256-7442
       www.tintype-artist.com

- --part1_e6.1512340e.2828a07a_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Matt,
<BR>Thanks for the positive feedback on Gabor and Skytop Rovers. I had met him 
<BR>once and looked over some of his vehicles a few months before he aquired the 
<BR>shop. He seemed very eager to please and I have no problem with him making a 
<BR>few dollars in the process. Seems safer than buying offshore.
<BR>Tony Miller
<BR>73 Lightweight
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FACE="StageCoach" LANG="0"> </FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">A</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">NTHONY D. MILLER &amp; Co.
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;~ The Tintype Artist ~
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ambrotypes &amp; Ferrotypes
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;34 Perryfalls Place
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Baltimore, Maryland 21236
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;410-256-7442
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;www.tintype-artist.com</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FACE="StageCoach" LANG="0">
<BR> </FONT></HTML>

- --part1_e6.1512340e.2828a07a_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 03:52:09 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [LRO: Re: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? ]

> Do you mean Craddocks or Paddocks?

Meant Craddocks.  I have only dealt with Craddocks and LR Marketplace from
the UK.  Positive experiance both times.  Yes I spent about a week or two
emailing back and forth to get an agreement on the parts needed, prices and
shipping.  After I placed the order, I had the parts in under 14 days.  Yes,
if I order from RN or BP I have the stuff within 7 days of first contact.
But for the savings I can be patiant.  One order in particular was 1000 at
RN prices, plus shipping.  My bill from LRM for the parts and shipping was
under 700.
I was planning on using Craddocks for the vehicle and some other used parts
I want.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 20:11:11 -0600
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Peirce WEbber manifold

Bill,
    Right you are about there not being enough room.  Your idea about the
bolts is ideal.  I just can't get the darn studs out.  I will continue to
work on it but I may resort to cutting them to about 1/2" and thread the
last bit for a nut.  The plate sent to me is about 3/16... could be 1/4".  I
don't know but I will check.  I was going to whip up one from 1/8" plate.
At least then with the short studs and/or bolts and a thinner plate I could
remove the intake manifold without taking half the engine bay apart!  :-)

Kirk

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 04:40:16 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Series coil sprung chassis conversion?

Big Sky
Not personally, but this subject has come up a few times in the past,
havenot heard a single positive comment yet.  Overpriced, failure to
deliver, etc.
http://www.fourfold.org/RoverWeb/lro/Year-1997/970830.html
http://www.fourfold.org/RoverWeb/lro/Year-1998/980124.html
http://www.fourfold.org/RoverWeb/lro/Year-1996/960118.html
Yeah they are old, but the recent archives are not searchable.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 09:35:54 +0100
From: Ian Stuart <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: 2.6 gearbox onto 2-ltr engine does go (eventually)

I'm rebuilding a Series 1 (80", with late 2-ltr engine) and have a 
dribbly gearbox to deal with.

I'd been told that the all-syncro gearbox from the 2.6, 6-cylinder, 
engine fitted the 2-ltr engine in Series 1's - and managed to aquire 
one for 100 quid, with (new) clutch-plate and pressure-plate.

I can confirm that it does go in, but it's not a simple bolt-on job.

1) On the 80", the bellhousing crossmember wraps up quite close to the 
bellhousing - and the SIII's clutch slave-cylinder won't fit.

You can't swap the 2.6's bellhousing for one from the 2-ltr engine as 
the layshafts are different diameters, as are the front bearings.

You need to chop & weld the crossmember to make clearance.

2) There is a stud where the SIII slave-cylinder sits, which is not 
used:
"
Alex was round again last night, helping me fit the gearbox.

We shoved the 'box backwards, and seated the engine in place. We then 
spent an hour shoving, pushing, lifting, pulling, and twisting - all to 
get the d*mn gearbox to fit : and it just would not seat.

The clutch-plate was fine (we checked, even though the pressure
plate and clutch plate came with the gearbox); the
spare flywheel housing nestled
against the bellhousing lovely (two studs just to ensure it
lined-up OK); Starter-motor out in case *that* was
holding thing back.

** It just would not go IN! **

In the end, we decided to open the holes out to 12mm - to see if
there was a slight warp somewhere. As I was about half way
round, I noticed that there was a spot of very shiney metal just
beside the slave-cylinder housing.

"Alex, how many studs do you have, between the starter-motor hole
and the bottom of the gearbox?", I asked him.

"Five, why?", he replied.

"'Cos I've got four holes and a shiny spot!", I answered..

It turns out that there the 2.6 gearbox uses one less stud that the
2-ltr gearbox. With the stud removed, it slotted into place as
sweet and easy as anything!

Grrrrr!!!!
"

- -- 
           --==**==--
Ian Stuart - EdINA, DataLibrary, University computing services.
- ---------------------------------
A man depriving some village, somewhere, of a first-class
idiot.
- ---------------------------------
http://lucas.ucs.ed.ac.uk/

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #371
**********************************************