Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #370

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 09:13:33 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *  Monday, May 7 2001  Volume 01 : Number 370

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 20:42:26 -0400
From: "Lee Jones" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others?

Hey Jeremy!

Where are you located in the country?

Lee 

- -----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
Behalf Of Jeremy
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 5:05 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others?

I definately appreciate the many responses my questions have generated!
Importing a ExMod myself sounds like a possible option.. Any recomondations
on shops in the UK who specialize in that sort of thing? (exporting to the
US)

Thx,
- -j

William J. Rice enlightened recipients with the following on 06May2001:
> > You are right!  BUT you forgot to add the thousand (airfare, hotel, 
> > food,
> > car rental, etc.) to go to England to find the truck you want and 
> > the cost
> > of finding the right "trustworthy" dealer to use to get the truck in 
> > the
> > first place.
> 
> Yeah, but think of it as a vacation included in the price of what you
> would've paid for the truck anyway and it begins to look like an
> attractive excursion.
> 
> bill

- -- 
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
                          heffner at darkness.net
                       Darkness Network Engineering
                   PGP public key available on request
            My thoughts and opinions represent no one but myself
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:43:36 -0600
From: Jeremy <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others?

Colorado, Denver Metro

- -j

Lee Jones enlightened recipients with the following on 06May2001:
> Hey Jeremy!
> 
> Where are you located in the country?
> 
> Lee 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
> Behalf Of Jeremy
> Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 5:05 PM
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others?
> 
> 
> I definately appreciate the many responses my questions have generated!
> Importing a ExMod myself sounds like a possible option.. Any recomondations
> on shops in the UK who specialize in that sort of thing? (exporting to the
> US)
> 
> Thx,
> -j
> 
> William J. Rice enlightened recipients with the following on 06May2001:
> > > You are right!  BUT you forgot to add the thousand (airfare, hotel, 
> > > food,
> > > car rental, etc.) to go to England to find the truck you want and 
> > > the cost
> > > of finding the right "trustworthy" dealer to use to get the truck in 
> > > the
> > > first place.
> > 
> > Yeah, but think of it as a vacation included in the price of what you
> > would've paid for the truck anyway and it begins to look like an
> > attractive excursion.
> > 
> > bill
> 
> -- 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>                           heffner at darkness.net
>                        Darkness Network Engineering
>                    PGP public key available on request
>             My thoughts and opinions represent no one but myself
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

- -- 
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
                          heffner at darkness.net
                       Darkness Network Engineering
                   PGP public key available on request
            My thoughts and opinions represent no one but myself
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:43:08 -0600
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36

Peter,
    As to the shape, imagine a horseshoe lying on a table, then stand an 'L'
shaped angle next to it.  Essentially the horseshoe piece simply spaces the
"L" away from the carb about 1" to clear the K&N air filter.  In situ, the
'L' shaped bracket extends up a couple of inches and then to the driver's
side a few inches.  Clear as mud?  I would have taken pictures to explain
better, but the digital camera is at the office in town.  If your system
works, could you explain what your bracket looks like... pictures maybe?

Thanks,
Kirk

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 6:35 PM
Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36

> If you can be more specific about the design of the bracket to attach to
the
> carb, I might be able to help you.  Mine opens all the way using a custom
> bracket that came with the carb and stock linkage all the rest of the way.
> A cable is probably a better way to go.  Understand that there is a stock
> cable arrangement that came on the early D90s.  You might be able to get
> this from England.  I've been very happy with my mechanical linkage for 17
> years, however.
>
> Pierce, the manifold people, sell the simultaneous opening kit and highly
> reccomend it.  Their website is http://www.piercemanifolds.com/.
Personally
> I'd see if I could sort out the normal progressive actuation as it should
> give better gas mileage.
>
> Aloha
> Peter
>
>
> >From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
> >Reply-To: [email-masked]
> >To: <[email-masked]>
> >Subject: LRO: Weber 32/36
> >Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 17:52:27 -0600
> >
> >     I have a Weber 32/36 DVG on the Banshee and am not satisfied with
the
> >performance because of the way the thing operates.  It was SUPPOSED to
come
> >with a throttle cable.  Instead the guy sent a funny looking bracket to
> >replace the stock throttle arm on the carb.  The bottom line is that it
is
> >not possible to get enough movement in the stock linkage to open the
second
> >butterfly valve fully... and I have even "modified" the linkage to make
it
> >a little better.  I understand there are guys that modify the carb so the
> >butterfly valves open at the same time.  Could someone point me to the
info
> >I need to do this?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Kirk
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:46:54 -0600
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Exhaust manifold bolts!!!

David,
    Great thought.  It occurred to me that I should just cut them off and
rethread, but I was hoping to simply screw out the old ones and screw in new
ones that are shorter.  In a perfect world it would be easier.  :-)  I don't
have a full set of taps and dies so I won't have one to match, what is the
thread on those do you suppose?

Kirk

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 20:05:31 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others?

Jeremy, there is a guy in Golden who is selling a '59 109. Not sure if
that's what you are looking for or the price, but you could look at it
if it is. Steven Beck (303)526-9874  He had an 88" too, but I'm not 
sure if he sold it or not.

Jeremy wrote:
> Colorado, Denver Metro
> -j
 
- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 21:22:17 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Exhaust manifold bolts!!!

On Sun, 6 May 2001, Kirk Hillman wrote:

:David,
:    Great thought.  It occurred to me that I should just cut them off and
:rethread, but I was hoping to simply screw out the old ones and screw in new
:ones that are shorter.  In a perfect world it would be easier.  :-)  I don't
:have a full set of taps and dies so I won't have one to match, what is the
:thread on those do you suppose?

5/16-24, I think.  Might be 5/16-18, if they're not fine threaded.  It's
really worth having a decent set of dies (and taps, but I use dies much more
often on the the rover) to work on the Land-Rover.  The fairly complete set of
SAE taps and dies, including a tap holder, die wrench and thread pitch
do-hickey was about $50 bucks from Sears.  I run just about every bolt
through a die before I put it back on, makes reassembly and the next
diassembly much easier.  

David
- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 11:12:38 -0400
From: "James G.Wolf" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? 

I have purchased parts ( frame, bulkhead etc) from P.A. Blanchard and have
no complaints at all. I have however, never purchased a vehicle
from him. He does have ads in LRM and/or LRE that states he will perpare
and ship 25 year old vehicles to the states. I can only go by
my own experience with parts,ie. no problems. As long as you remember that
you are buying (most likley) an EXMOD GS-vehicle, and plan accordingly you
should be ok.

Jim Wolf

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 18:02:10 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36

Think we have the same bracket, the horse shoe or 'C' piece has arms of .8" 
and a back of 1" and serves to space the actuating arm out to clear the air 
filter base.  The 'L' part stands up 2 1/2" from the base of the C and 
extends towards the fender 2 1/2" from the back of the verical piece.  The 
ball joint connector is facing in toward the carburetor on mine.

I did the install on mine 17 years ago so forgive me.  I'm a little fuzzy on 
the what I had to do to get full throw of the second venturi.  I know I 
adjusted the control arms up on the foot well so that I got maximum throw.  
You might even go into the pedal stop on the floor board and adjust it all 
the way in though I don't remember messing with this.  The forward end of 
the long arm that goes from the top of the foot well to the bell crank by 
the carb would not work with the stock spring clip.  The angle was so 
extreme the clip fouled and wouldn't allow full extension.  I took the clip 
off put the bent end in the bell crank and temporarily wired it on as best I 
could.  It was supposed to be a temporary fix but is stll there after all 
these years and has never allowed the end to slip out.  Don't remember any 
other mods that I did to get it to work.  After grubbing every milimeter out 
of the linkage, the 2nd venturi just about completely opens.  If 90 degrees 
is veritcal, it goes to about 87 degrees which I don't think limits the 
airflow much at all.  Seems like I remember a couple hours of work for the 
installation.  Suggest you keep fiddling and you should be able to get very 
close to maximum throttle opening.

I've driven the carb with the jetting that came with.  Think its a 135 main 
and 140 secondary jet.  Seemed to work fine on a stock 7-1 engine.  Never 
pulled the plugs to check the color but truck ran for around 14 years with 
out any valve or overheating problems and no valve recession from running 
unleaded.  Mileage was decent at around 15-16 in an 88 with some long trips 
up a steep hill every day.  I have never driven a series without the 32/26 
so can't comment on power addition.  Know that going to a 2.5 cam, milling 
the head to 8-1 specs and a homemade port and polish job, still using the 
32/36, makes a BIG difference in the power.

The breather on top of the valve cover is supposed ot have an 'O' ring at 
its base to seal it.  The breather pipe goes to an 'L' fitting under the 
outboard front of the base of the aircleaner.  The valve cover nuts have 
rubber washers that get very hard with age so may need to be changed.  In 
any case there isn't much, if any, pressure in the valve cover though there 
is a constant supply of oil splashing around under the valve cover.  You 
shouldn't see a lot of oil coming out.  Leaks are generally around the base 
of the cover, and minor.  If you think there is too much oil coming out of 
the valve cover area, suggest you put your finger over the end of the cap 
vent tube and rev up the engine.  If you can feel much, if any, pressure you 
may have ring problems.

Do a compression check and note the readings.  Squirt a small amount of oil 
in the cylinders and do another compression test.  If there is a rise in 
pressure from the original readings, your rings are going south.

Hope this helps.  The carb is sitting on my desk as I write and could take 
the portable phone out to the truck, if you wanted me talk you through it.  
My phone number is 808 325-7898 and its 6pm, here, as I write this.

The 109 is up and running with a cable arrangement, by the way.  I've 
noticed that all the parts are available to make the conversion through 
Pierce with the exception of an easily fabricated arm arrangement that goes 
on the foot well.  Could take some measurements and tell you the pieces that 
you need to buy if you want to take the plunge.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

>From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: <[email-masked]>
>Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36
>Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:43:08 -0600
>
>Peter,
>     As to the shape, imagine a horseshoe lying on a table, then stand an 
>'L'
>shaped angle next to it.  Essentially the horseshoe piece simply spaces the
>"L" away from the carb about 1" to clear the K&N air filter.  In situ, the
>'L' shaped bracket extends up a couple of inches and then to the driver's
>side a few inches.  Clear as mud?  I would have taken pictures to explain
>better, but the digital camera is at the office in town.  If your system
>works, could you explain what your bracket looks like... pictures maybe?
>
>Thanks,
>Kirk
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
>To: <[email-masked]>
>Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 6:35 PM
>Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36
>
>
> > If you can be more specific about the design of the bracket to attach to
>the
> > carb, I might be able to help you.  Mine opens all the way using a 
>custom
> > bracket that came with the carb and stock linkage all the rest of the 
>way.
> > A cable is probably a better way to go.  Understand that there is a 
>stock
> > cable arrangement that came on the early D90s.  You might be able to get
> > this from England.  I've been very happy with my mechanical linkage for 
>17
> > years, however.
> >
> > Pierce, the manifold people, sell the simultaneous opening kit and 
>highly
> > reccomend it.  Their website is http://www.piercemanifolds.com/.
>Personally
> > I'd see if I could sort out the normal progressive actuation as it 
>should
> > give better gas mileage.
> >
> > Aloha
> > Peter
> >
> >
> > >From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
> > >Reply-To: [email-masked]
> > >To: <[email-masked]>
> > >Subject: LRO: Weber 32/36
> > >Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 17:52:27 -0600
> > >
> > >     I have a Weber 32/36 DVG on the Banshee and am not satisfied with
>the
> > >performance because of the way the thing operates.  It was SUPPOSED to
>come
> > >with a throttle cable.  Instead the guy sent a funny looking bracket to
> > >replace the stock throttle arm on the carb.  The bottom line is that it
>is
> > >not possible to get enough movement in the stock linkage to open the
>second
> > >butterfly valve fully... and I have even "modified" the linkage to make
>it
> > >a little better.  I understand there are guys that modify the carb so 
>the
> > >butterfly valves open at the same time.  Could someone point me to the
>info
> > >I need to do this?
> > >
> > >Thanks,
> > >Kirk
> > >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
> >
> >
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 21:51:31 -0700
From: "Paul Quin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Oil in carb

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_00CC_01C0D676.B5ED80E0
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	charset="Windows-1252"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Excess oil blowing out of the valve cover vent is usually a sign of a =
worn engine.  Enough gasses are squeezing down past the piston rings and =
up the valve guides during the power stroke to build up pressure inside =
the crank case and up top inside the rocker cover.  When the engine is =
running, the inside of these chambers is a bit like the inside of a dish =
washer except it's oil flying around, not water... so when all those =
leaked combustion gasses come blowing out the vents, they bring with =
them quite a bit of oil.   Mind you, being a Land Rover, the engine =
could probably run on happily like this for years to come!  Maybe you =
could rout the hose (which is there to allow these unburned gasses to be =
sucked back into the engine and burnt) over to your oil filler pipe and =
thus back into the sump...

The oil inside of the air filter is a bit messy, my buddy has a Webber =
similar to yours and his air filter was always sopping wet - until he =
put in a new engine last year...

Paul in Victoria.

  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Kirk Hillman=20

  Last post, I hope.  You know that little dome shaped thingy on top of =
the valve cover that vents excess pressure?  I don't remember where =
exactly the hose was routed to on the old carb, but on the new one I was =
supposed to route it into a fitting inside the air filter.  There is oil =
getting into the inside of my air filter.  I don't like that.  :-(
      Also, something that may be related is that the whole engine seems =
to have gotten covered with oil.  It wasn't sprayed there by the fan, it =
seems to have run down from the valve cover.  I used RTV to seal the =
cover to the head so it isn't coming from there.  It seems from the oil =
evidence to have come from the base of that dome shaped thing and the =
valve cover bolt holes.  So my question is why does this happen?  There =
shouldn't be that much pressure in there should there?  HELP, PLEASE!

  Kirk

- ------=_NextPart_000_00CC_01C0D676.B5ED80E0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="Windows-1252"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4611.1300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Excess oil blowing out of the valve cover vent is =
usually a=20
sign of a worn engine.&nbsp; Enough gasses are squeezing down past the =
piston=20
rings and up the valve guides during the power stroke to build up =
pressure=20
inside the crank case and up top inside the rocker cover.&nbsp; When the =
engine=20
is running, the inside of these chambers is a bit like the inside of a =
dish=20
washer except it's oil flying around, not water... so when all those =
leaked=20
combustion gasses come blowing out the vents, they bring with them quite =
a bit=20
of oil.&nbsp;&nbsp; Mind you, being a Land Rover, the engine could =
probably run=20
on happily like this for years to come!&nbsp; Maybe you could rout the =
hose=20
(which is there to allow these unburned gasses to be sucked back into =
the engine=20
and burnt) over to your oil filler pipe and thus back into the=20
sump...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The oil inside of the air filter is a bit messy, my =
buddy has=20
a Webber similar to yours and his air filter was always sopping wet - =
until he=20
put in a new engine last year...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Paul in Victoria.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=[email-masked] =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Kirk=20
  Hillman</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Last post, I hope.&nbsp; You know that little dome =
shaped=20
  thingy on top of the valve cover that vents excess pressure?&nbsp; I =
don't=20
  remember where exactly the hose was routed to on the old carb, but on =
the new=20
  one I was supposed to route it into a fitting inside the air =
filter.&nbsp;=20
  There is oil getting into the inside of my air filter.&nbsp; I don't =
like=20
  that.&nbsp; :-(</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Also, something that may be =
related is=20
  that the whole engine seems to have gotten covered with oil.&nbsp; It =
wasn't=20
  sprayed there by the fan, it seems to have run down from the valve=20
  cover.&nbsp; I used RTV to seal the cover to the head so it isn't =
coming from=20
  there.&nbsp; It seems from the oil evidence to have come from the base =
of that=20
  dome shaped thing and the valve cover bolt holes.&nbsp; So my question =
is why=20
  does this happen?&nbsp; There shouldn't be that much pressure in there =
should=20
  there?&nbsp; HELP, PLEASE!</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Kirk</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 07:22:55 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? 

> I have purchased parts ( frame, bulkhead etc) from P.A. Blanchard and have
> no complaints at all. I have however, never purchased a vehicle
> from him.

I was going to suggest the above and Cross Country and Craddocks.
Cross Country is at http://www.landrover-sales.com/ and quotes shipping to
the USA of 600 pounds sterling..about 900US which is about what I got from
another place (950) sorry I don't remember who I was talking to.
Paddocks is http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/welcome.htm
There are some other listed in the back of the Rover mags that I don't have
bookmarked.  A couple of which seem to think the streets are lined with
gold.  Found one place that had a SeriesIIa 109 3 door with a hard top for
3000 pounds sterling.  Not bad.  But the exact same vehicle they quoted as
being 8000 pounds sterling for the US market.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 06:38:28 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? 

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In a message dated 5/7/01 1:31:01 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> I was going to suggest the above and Cross Country and Craddocks.
> 

Pete,
I just checked Cross Country and they have decent Series IIa Rovers from 3000 
to 4000 pounds. With shipping the 4000 pound Rover is $6700 US but does not 
include customs fees and they too can add up quickly. That is not that far 
off from Skytop at all and at least with Gabor you have some recourse if it 
is not as described.
For a sight unseen Rover this is still a big gamble. Craddocks prices for his 
Lightweights though are a different matter and considerably lower so the risk 
may not be as great.
I am still a firm believer in not buying what I can't see first hand. I guess 
I am biased though as I was lucky enough to be blessed with owning three 
virtually rust free Rovers in a row without major mechanical problems. There 
are plenty of horror stories out there but they too need to be weighed 
against what type of buyer is relaying the nightmare. In selling a few of my 
Rovers in the past I have run across a few people who were simply not the 
Rover owner type and tried to warn them off. Unfortunately these guys don't 
realize Landrovers are not for them and don't understand even a great example 
will need constant adjustment and wrench-turning.
Best,
Tony

 ANTHONY D. MILLER & Co.
        ~ The Tintype Artist ~
      Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes
           34 Perryfalls Place
    Baltimore, Maryland 21236
                 410-256-7442
       www.tintype-artist.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 5/7/01 1:31:01 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
<BR>[email-masked] writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I was going to suggest the above and Cross Country and Craddocks.
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Pete,
<BR>I just checked Cross Country and they have decent Series IIa Rovers from 3000 
<BR>to 4000 pounds. With shipping the 4000 pound Rover is $6700 US but does not 
<BR>include customs fees and they too can add up quickly. That is not that far 
<BR>off from Skytop at all and at least with Gabor you have some recourse if it 
<BR>is not as described.
<BR>For a sight unseen Rover this is still a big gamble. Craddocks prices for his 
<BR>Lightweights though are a different matter and considerably lower so the risk 
<BR>may not be as great.
<BR>I am still a firm believer in not buying what I can't see first hand. I guess 
<BR>I am biased though as I was lucky enough to be blessed with owning three 
<BR>virtually rust free Rovers in a row without major mechanical problems. There 
<BR>are plenty of horror stories out there but they too need to be weighed 
<BR>against what type of buyer is relaying the nightmare. In selling a few of my 
<BR>Rovers in the past I have run across a few people who were simply not the 
<BR>Rover owner type and tried to warn them off. Unfortunately these guys don't 
<BR>realize Landrovers are not for them and don't understand even a great example 
<BR>will need constant adjustment and wrench-turning.
<BR>Best,
<BR>Tony
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FACE="StageCoach" LANG="0"> </FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">A</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">NTHONY D. MILLER &amp; Co.
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;~ The Tintype Artist ~
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ambrotypes &amp; Ferrotypes
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;34 Perryfalls Place
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Baltimore, Maryland 21236
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;410-256-7442
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;www.tintype-artist.com</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FACE="StageCoach" LANG="0">
<BR> </FONT></HTML>

- --part1_7c.15571415.2827d524_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 07:14:23 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4

>Your brake system will be happy with any brake fluid that is rated DOT4.
>Most auto parts store carries at least one brand of DOT4 fluid.

I am very sorry to disagree but not all DOT4 fluids are the same. I have
personally had hydraulic system failures from using a fluid that while DOT4
was not Castrol - it promptly dissolved all my seals.Pyroil was the name -
and I haven't used any other than Castrol since.

Natural rubber seals (Girling and he like) require a fluid different from
the standard American and European synthetic rubber seals. Specifically,
the seals can't contain mineral-oil products else the rubber swells and
dissolves.

DOT ratings are for boiling, NOT chemical composition.

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 07:23:59 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4

I have no idea why yours went belly up.

TeriAnn Wakeman

He's not the only one, as I've stated previously. It's the mineral-oil
rather than vegetable content. Any DOT4 that has petrochemicals in it will
do this - and the DOT spec doesn't say anything about chemical composition,
just boiling point.

Careful with this one...

               ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 07:26:46 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: uh oh, Jim's at it again...

I wouldn't use fiber - not sure what the oil will do to it. Go with flat
copper washers for oil pan plugs - they'll do...

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 07:43:26 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Stalling/Rough idling SIII

Kurt, recheck the torque on the exhausrt manifold and the bolts holding the
pipe to the manifold. You have an air leak at the manifold area.

If a retorque doesn't help, do yourself a favor and use the older Series
IIa manifold to head gasket - the stupid little aluminum ring things are
trash and rarely seal right.

As far as the puff of smoke goes - they all do it. My Series II (1958
vintage) had 18.5K on it, now has 23K and does it when restarted warm every
time. Don't worry about it - it's just a bit of oil getting past the valve
guides most likely.

                         Al Richer

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 07:52:11 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Big Nut on crank

Yes, the big nit has to come off to get the pulley out to get the cover
off.

1-11/16ths is the figure I've heard - I use a BIG Effing Adjustable on it
meself.

Put a wrench on it and sock it hard with a hammer...

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 07:56:38 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Exhaust manifold bolts!!!

Gooooood luck.....you're gonna need it to salvage that manifold.

My first suggestion is heat - lots of it - get it to glow and try and turn
them out. Expansion, PB BLASTER and torque may well work, but to be honest
they may well be so frozen in they won't come out. Drilling and tapping can
be done if needed, but be careful there too.

You may want to keep this manifold with the old intake as a set for
reconversion at a later date, and just pick up a cheap S.III manifold as a
replacement.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 07:59:35 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36

Kirk, MG Midgets use a cheap, short throttle cable that would likely fill
the bill for what you want. Take a look at a Midget parts book - and think
of using the cable right off the pedal by drilling a hole in the pedal and
passing the cable through it and attaching the housing to the bulkhead
floorboard above it.

               aj"Just speculating..."r

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 13:52:55 +0100
From: "Alyn Fendley" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Exhaust manifold bolts!!!

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C0D6FD.04161580
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	charset="Windows-1252"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Try spacers over the studs.  May not look the biz but should work.

Regards

Alyn
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Kirk Hillman=20
  To: [email-masked]=20
  Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 12:44 AM
  Subject: LRO: Exhaust manifold bolts!!!

      I was working on clearing up a few of the issues I have had on my =
LR for a while now so this may be the first of a number of posts today.

      Okay, this is going to seem like an amateurish question.  I =
replaced my zenith with a Weber 32/36 and complimentary Pierce manifold. =
 The Pierce does not bolt down to the exhaust manifold as the stock one =
did.  As a consequence a block off plate is needed to cover the hole.  =
This part is easy, I have the plate.  The real problem is that with the =
existing threaded dowels sticking out of the exhaust manifold I cannot =
run a nut down far enough to hold the plate in place.  I assume these =
dowels are actually threaded into the manifold and have tried heat and =
oil to break them loose.  They aren't press in are they?  How does one =
go about removing them?  Any ideas will be GREATLY appreciated.=20
      This wouldn't be such a big deal, but I cannot seal a gasket in =
there without shorter bolts and therefore the exhaust pressure is =
inconsistent and makes the thing run funny.  More than anything it is an =
annoying sound I suppose, but I want it fixed.

  Thanks,
  Kirk

- ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C0D6FD.04161580
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="Windows-1252"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4134.600" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Try spacers over the studs.&nbsp; May =
not look the=20
biz but should work.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Regards</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Alyn</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=[email-masked] =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Kirk=20
  Hillman</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=[email-masked]=20
  href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, May 07, 2001 =
12:44 AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> LRO: Exhaust manifold=20
  bolts!!!</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I was working on clearing up a =
few of the=20
  issues I have had on my LR for a while now so this may be the first of =
a=20
  number of posts today.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Okay, this is going to seem =
like an=20
  amateurish question.&nbsp; I replaced my zenith with a Weber 32/36 and =

  complimentary Pierce manifold.&nbsp; The Pierce does not bolt down to =
the=20
  exhaust manifold as the stock one did.&nbsp; As a consequence a block =
off=20
  plate is needed to cover the hole.&nbsp; This part is easy, I have the =

  plate.&nbsp; The real problem is that with the existing threaded =
dowels=20
  sticking out of the exhaust manifold I cannot run a nut down far =
enough to=20
  hold the plate in place.&nbsp; I assume these dowels are actually =
threaded=20
  into the manifold and have tried heat and oil to break them =
loose.&nbsp; They=20
  aren't press in are they?&nbsp; How does one go about removing =
them?&nbsp; Any=20
  ideas will be GREATLY appreciated. </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; This wouldn't be such a big =
deal, but I=20
  cannot seal a gasket in there without shorter bolts and therefore the =
exhaust=20
  pressure is inconsistent and makes the thing run funny.&nbsp; More =
than=20
  anything it is an annoying sound I suppose, but I want it =
fixed.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Kirk</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C0D6FD.04161580--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 13:02:23 
From: "Chris Oles" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: crossed wires (was stalling, rough idling)

"Lastly, you're sure the wires go to the appropriate cylinder?
(because four cylinder engine will happily run with the wires right on two 
but wrong on the other two)."

Oh how I know this :)  Setting the timing on my 2.25 and we just couldn't 
get it to run smoothly.  Seems we had a miss on #2.  Bought new wires from 
my left coast supplier (Thanks Marty!) and tried it again on Saturday.  No 
miss now but not running well either.  1-3-4-2 CCW kept running through my 
head.  Looked at the dizzy and saw #2 and #3 wires were hooked up wrong!  So 
much better when they're in their correct spots but the darn thing ran.  
Amazing little lumps!

Chris
70 SIIa 88

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 07:04:22 -0600
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36

Peter,
    I am inspired to make my carb work somehow rather than modify the ports
to work together.  I did most of the things you talked about with regard to
adjustments in the linkage and such.  I was most gratified to hear about
your temporary fix, I modified the crank arm by lengthening it and moving
the hole for the pull rod.  This seemed to help tremendously.  Still can't
get full open throttle though.  I think the problem is a geometric one.  The
carb is fully open at almost 90 degrees of turn of the throttle arm ('C'
bracket) which starts out horizontal.  When the crank arm starts to rotate
toward the cab it is already a long way from horizontal which means that it
doesn't have a very long pull before it is actually pulling *away* from the
carb.  That is why I have been playing with the length of the arm and the
point from which the linkage pulls on the crank arm.  Sort of modifying the
'progression' if you will.  If I moved the ball back toward the pivot point
on the carb, my throttle would work faster but the relative angle from the
pivot point would be less and therefore I should be able to get more angular
pull.  This all sounds terribly confusing, sorry for not being more clear,
but it all works out beautifully in my head now!  Thanks.  I am still very
interested in your cable set-up, but since I have all the parts here already
for the linkage I will tinker with it some more.  BTW, do you have a hand
throttle on the cable set-up?

Kirk

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 10:02 PM
Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36

> Think we have the same bracket, the horse shoe or 'C' piece has arms of
.8"
> and a back of 1" and serves to space the actuating arm out to clear the
air
> filter base.  The 'L' part stands up 2 1/2" from the base of the C and
> extends towards the fender 2 1/2" from the back of the verical piece.  The
> ball joint connector is facing in toward the carburetor on mine.
>
> I did the install on mine 17 years ago so forgive me.  I'm a little fuzzy
on
> the what I had to do to get full throw of the second venturi.  I know I
> adjusted the control arms up on the foot well so that I got maximum throw.
> You might even go into the pedal stop on the floor board and adjust it all
> the way in though I don't remember messing with this.  The forward end of
> the long arm that goes from the top of the foot well to the bell crank by
> the carb would not work with the stock spring clip.  The angle was so
> extreme the clip fouled and wouldn't allow full extension.  I took the
clip
> off put the bent end in the bell crank and temporarily wired it on as best
I
> could.  It was supposed to be a temporary fix but is stll there after all
> these years and has never allowed the end to slip out.  Don't remember any
> other mods that I did to get it to work.  After grubbing every milimeter
out
> of the linkage, the 2nd venturi just about completely opens.  If 90
degrees
> is veritcal, it goes to about 87 degrees which I don't think limits the
> airflow much at all.  Seems like I remember a couple hours of work for the
> installation.  Suggest you keep fiddling and you should be able to get
very
> close to maximum throttle opening.
>
> I've driven the carb with the jetting that came with.  Think its a 135
main
> and 140 secondary jet.  Seemed to work fine on a stock 7-1 engine.  Never
> pulled the plugs to check the color but truck ran for around 14 years with
> out any valve or overheating problems and no valve recession from running
> unleaded.  Mileage was decent at around 15-16 in an 88 with some long
trips
> up a steep hill every day.  I have never driven a series without the 32/26
> so can't comment on power addition.  Know that going to a 2.5 cam, milling
> the head to 8-1 specs and a homemade port and polish job, still using the
> 32/36, makes a BIG difference in the power.
>
> The breather on top of the valve cover is supposed ot have an 'O' ring at
> its base to seal it.  The breather pipe goes to an 'L' fitting under the
> outboard front of the base of the aircleaner.  The valve cover nuts have
> rubber washers that get very hard with age so may need to be changed.  In
> any case there isn't much, if any, pressure in the valve cover though
there
> is a constant supply of oil splashing around under the valve cover.  You
> shouldn't see a lot of oil coming out.  Leaks are generally around the
base
> of the cover, and minor.  If you think there is too much oil coming out of
> the valve cover area, suggest you put your finger over the end of the cap
> vent tube and rev up the engine.  If you can feel much, if any, pressure
you
> may have ring problems.
>
> Do a compression check and note the readings.  Squirt a small amount of
oil
> in the cylinders and do another compression test.  If there is a rise in
> pressure from the original readings, your rings are going south.
>
> Hope this helps.  The carb is sitting on my desk as I write and could take
> the portable phone out to the truck, if you wanted me talk you through it.
> My phone number is 808 325-7898 and its 6pm, here, as I write this.
>
> The 109 is up and running with a cable arrangement, by the way.  I've
> noticed that all the parts are available to make the conversion through
> Pierce with the exception of an easily fabricated arm arrangement that
goes
> on the foot well.  Could take some measurements and tell you the pieces
that
> you need to buy if you want to take the plunge.
>
> Aloha
> Peter Ogilvie
> Kona Coffee Rover
> 1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
>      from exposure of the dark side.
> 1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
> 1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
> 196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
>      certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust
>
>
>
>
>
> >From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
> >Reply-To: [email-masked]
> >To: <[email-masked]>
> >Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36
> >Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:43:08 -0600
> >
> >Peter,
> >     As to the shape, imagine a horseshoe lying on a table, then stand an
> >'L'
> >shaped angle next to it.  Essentially the horseshoe piece simply spaces
the
> >"L" away from the carb about 1" to clear the K&N air filter.  In situ,
the
> >'L' shaped bracket extends up a couple of inches and then to the driver's
> >side a few inches.  Clear as mud?  I would have taken pictures to explain
> >better, but the digital camera is at the office in town.  If your system
> >works, could you explain what your bracket looks like... pictures maybe?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Kirk
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
> >To: <[email-masked]>
> >Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 6:35 PM
> >Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36
> >
> >
> > > If you can be more specific about the design of the bracket to attach
to
> >the
> > > carb, I might be able to help you.  Mine opens all the way using a
> >custom
> > > bracket that came with the carb and stock linkage all the rest of the
> >way.
> > > A cable is probably a better way to go.  Understand that there is a
> >stock
> > > cable arrangement that came on the early D90s.  You might be able to
get
> > > this from England.  I've been very happy with my mechanical linkage
for
> >17
> > > years, however.
> > >
> > > Pierce, the manifold people, sell the simultaneous opening kit and
> >highly
> > > reccomend it.  Their website is http://www.piercemanifolds.com/.
> >Personally
> > > I'd see if I could sort out the normal progressive actuation as it
> >should
> > > give better gas mileage.
> > >
> > > Aloha
> > > Peter
> > >
> > >
> > > >From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
> > > >Reply-To: [email-masked]
> > > >To: <[email-masked]>
> > > >Subject: LRO: Weber 32/36
> > > >Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 17:52:27 -0600
> > > >
> > > >     I have a Weber 32/36 DVG on the Banshee and am not satisfied
with
> >the
> > > >performance because of the way the thing operates.  It was SUPPOSED
to
> >come
> > > >with a throttle cable.  Instead the guy sent a funny looking bracket
to
> > > >replace the stock throttle arm on the carb.  The bottom line is that
it
> >is
> > > >not possible to get enough movement in the stock linkage to open the
> >second
> > > >butterfly valve fully... and I have even "modified" the linkage to
make
> >it
> > > >a little better.  I understand there are guys that modify the carb so
> >the
> > > >butterfly valves open at the same time.  Could someone point me to
the
> >info
> > > >I need to do this?
> > > >
> > > >Thanks,
> > > >Kirk
> > > >
> > >
> > > _________________________________________________________________
> > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #370
**********************************************